Ahoy - August 2023 by Island Cruising & Down Under Rally

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S A U S TR A L IA & T HES O U T HP A C I F I C

"IT'S FREE TO ENJOY AHOY!"

114 PAGE ISSUE! AUGUST 2023

s.v Nautilus II New Courtesy Flags Photo Credit Pirate Kerry & Bryn’s Adventures

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IN THE 114 PAGE AUGUST ISSUE OF AHOY! Meet Your Personal Cruising Guide.

Starlink As Sole Mean For 'At Sea' Comms.

Members Prize Draw Winner.

Making Memories Cruising New Caledonia.

A Devine Story.

Next Stop Vanuatu.

Crew Wanted for A World Circumnavigation.

Great Barrier Reef Festival.

Women In Boating - Coral Sea Academy.

Cruising Queensland - Double Island Point Lagoon.

Cruisers Create Fiji's Newest Marine Reserve.

Sustaining A Serious Burn Offshore.

International Cruisers Heading Down Under.

Healthy Cruising (Part 5).

Cruising New Zealand's Fiordland (Part 3).

Members Market Place.

101 UPDATE

Marine Business Directory.

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Published by Down Under Rally Pty Ltd To submit an article or to enquire about advertising, contact John Hembrow Email: admin@downunderrally.com

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Website: downunderrally.com

AHOY! AUSTR AL IA & T HE SOUTHPA CIFIC

"IT'S FREE TO ENJOY AHOY!" AHOYSAILING.AU

©Copyright 2023 Down Under Rally Pty Ltd AHOY Sailing News is published and distributed electronically via the world wide web. Original editorial content & advertisements in this newsletter are copyrighted and the exclusive property of Down Under Rally Pty Ltd. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without the written permission of the Down Under Rally Pty Ltd. The comments and views in this newsletter are not necessarily those of the Down Under Rally Pty Ltd.

Meet Your Personal Cruising Guide! Whether you're new to cruising or a seasoned & experienced cruiser, access to local knowledge is a valuable resource. Australia, the South Pacific and New Zealand's Northland are locations Down Under Rally Director John Hembrow has sailed to and spent extended periods cruising. As a result, John can provide guidance and advice to assist you with voyage planning and cruising in these locations.

As one of the many benefits of Down Under Rally membership, members can contact John for advice about... Cruising in the South Pacific, New Zealand and Australia. Your Current Vessel. Your Next Vessel. Or anything related to sailing & cruising...

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE MANY BENEFITS OF DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERSHIP HERE.

SAILING TO AUSTRALIA

WHO IS INVITED? The captain and first mate of all vessels that are interested in visiting Australia

WHAT INFO WILL BE SHARED? Ports of Entry | Passage Planning | Pre & Post Arrival Formalities Customs and Biosecurity Inspections | Cyclone Season & Vessel Storage options East Coast Cruising info | Question and Answer Session

VANUATU MORNING TEA INCLUDED COMPLIMENTS OF SCARBOROUGH MARINA!*

NEW CALEDONIA JOIN US AFTERWARDS FOR A SUNDOWNER COMPLIMENTS OF SCARBOROUGH MARINA!*

NUMBERS LIMITED- RSVP REQUIRED RSVP AT:

www.downunderrally.com/sailing-to-australia-info

SW PACIFIC TO AUSTRALIA

OR SCAN THE QR CODE.

Starlink As Sole Method For 'At Sea' Communications.

By John Hembrow - Down Under Rally.

As someone who is in regular contact with the owners of cruising vessels that undertake ocean passages, I have some concerns about what I see as an emerging trend with the advent of Starlink. There is no doubt in my mind that Starlink is the solution for sailors who are seeking to have affordable high-speed internet on their boats. However, I don't believe choosing Starlink as the sole method of communications whilst at sea is a prudent decision for several reasons, some of which are: Should a vessel lose power (such as in the instance of a lightning strike or electrical issue), Starlink will no longer be operational, which in addition to the loss of the ability to communicate, will also result in no longer being able to access weather information. Should those aboard need to abandon a vessel and find themselves in a liferaft, Starlink is not portable and, as such, will result in having no means of long-distance communication. In the instance that Starlink is not operational, there will be a loss of real-time vessel tracking in many cases. See below. Vessel Tracking. As someone who actively uses PredictWind Tracking and monitors vessel tracking data, tracking provides a method to determine and monitor a vessel's position and progress. When an emergency/distress situation arises, the last know location or the vessel in distress needs to be determined by those responding. The more recent and accurate vessel position the tracking provides, the better the chance for SAR coordinators and other responders to determine the location of the persons/vessel in distress. In the instance that communications are not possible with the vessel/persons in distress, this tracking data becomes even more important, especially if the tracking can be maintained when/if the vessel is abandoned and the crew are aboard a liferaft by having the tracking device accompany them in the liferaft. It could be argued that activating an EPIRB would serve this purpose; however, an EPIRB provides no means of two-way communication with those in distress and those coordinating the rescue. Another consideration is the power usage of running tracking via Starlink with a DataHub. Although is it possible to do GPS tracking with Starlink via the PredictWind DataHub, the power requirements are large, and for this reason, on most boats, it is not possible to have Starlink running 24hrs a day. Redundancy & Portability. If I chose Starlink as our primary means of offshore communications, I would also choose to maintain an Iridium GO!™ or Iridium GO! exec™ device. The Iridium GO!™ or the Iridium GO! exec™ provide redundancy should Starlink not be available for any reason and the ability to maintain communications should we need to abandon the vessel.

Starlink As Sole Method For 'At Sea' Communications.

By John Hembrow - Down Under Rally.

Data Plans If using an Iridium GO!™, we would opt for the PredictWind GO Plus Data Plan for the periods we intended to be at sea. The Go Plus Plan offers voice, data & unlimited SMS messaging, which provides the ability to maintain an up-to-date tracking page. If using an Iridium GO! exec™ combined with a PredictWind DataHub, we would opt for the GO! Exec 50 plan. Predictwind has also indicated that they will soon be offering a new plan for the Iridium GO! exec™ the GO! Exec Unlimited plan, which, when available, would be our preference. There is the option to downgrade the plans and make some savings during the periods when we are not at sea/on passage. Shore Party Float Plan. We would also advise those with whom we lodge a float plan, such as Passage Guardian and AMSA, that we have an Iridium GO!™ as our backup and provide our Iridium/PredictMail email address, Iridium phone number and our PredictWind Tracking Page URL in addition to our primary email address and phone number. Example of an Actual Event To appreciate the value of being able to maintain communication after abandoning a vessel, read the first-hand account of the owner/master of a vessel who was returning to Australia from Vanuatu when his vessel was lost. Among other things, the owner's account of the events includes details about how being able to maintain communications from a liferaft was invaluable. READ THE OWNERS ACCOUNT HERE. (https://www.downunderrally.com/news/loss-of-the-liberty)

Pacific Dawn lifeboat recover the crew of the Liberty from their liferaft

To view a comparison table of Starlink & Iridium GO! exec ™ visit: www.predictwind.com/starlink

Members Prize Draw Congratulations... Cilla & David - Member Number 202. You are this month's winner of the PredictWind Down Under Rally Members Prize Draw. Each month the Down Under Rally draws the name of one of our members as the winner of the member's prize draw.

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The winner chooses any item from the woman's or men's range of PredictWind Clothing plus a PredictWind Cap. predictwind.com/clothing-shop

BECOME A MEMBER FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN downunderrally.com/membership

"The best seamanship is not getting caught out in bad weather."

Start your next passage at the right time and avoid unsafe weather conditions using the UPDATED PredictWind Departure Planning Tool.

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Making Memories Cruising New Caledonia If "a picture is worth a thousand words", the one below of the PredictWind 2023 Go East Rally Fleet Tracking Page is the best way to tell the story of what our 2023 Go East Rally participants have been up to since they arrived in New Caledonia back in May of this year.

The pictures that feature on the following pages, all of which have been taken & shared by the participants themselves, tell the story of the adventures they have shared and the memories made along the way...

Making Memories - Cruising New Caledonia

WHAT'S MISSING FROM Making Memories - Cruising New Caledonia

THIS PICTURE?

YOUR BOAT! LEARN MORE ABOUT SAILING TO NEW CALEDONIA WITH THE GO EAST RALLY. www.downunderrally.com/go-east-rally

A Devine Story We first met Buddy & Helen back in 2021 when they joined our Beyond The Barrier Rally. This year they joined the Go East Rally and have been cruising New Caledonia and will continue on to Vanuatu this month with the NC2V Rally. On the 24th of July, Helen sent me an email sharing a very special moment and one she & Buddy will add to the many memories they have made together during their 50 years of marrige...

Hi Leanne & John, I have a divine story to tell you about our visit to the Isle of Pines. Early on Wednesday, Sam, the local cab driver, drove us with Daren & Julie (s.v Bombora) to the vegetable market on the other side of the island. We all sat down at some benches to have a coffee and were chatting when this local lady came up behind me and hugged my back. We were surprised as we didn’t know any of the locals, and she was excited, smiling and hugging us. She then thanked us for visiting her community on our 50th Wedding Anniversary and thanked us for blessing her village by visiting. I was very emotional at this stage, and I asked her who told her, as we hadn’t publicised it. Her immediate reply was ‘“the angels came to me last night to tell me that you were going to be here today”. Mary Jane was her name, and she was so specific about the fact that it was our 50th wedding anniversary and that the angels had visited her. By the way, it is people like you two who encourage others to have an adventure and make the memories, so thank You John & Leanne.

NEXT STOP VANUATU!

The participant packs have been printed, and If the weather plays the game, most of the 2023 Go East Participants, along with a few new entries, will be saying "au Revoir" to New Caledonia on the 3rd of August and heading to Vanuatu with the NC2V Rally. The NC2V Rally is a 14-day sail in a company yacht rally from Noumea, New Caledonia, to Port Villa Vanuatu. The rally will visit Tanna, Erromango & Port Villa. Participants will have the opportunity to attend various events, including Welcome Ceremonies, Feasts, Kustom Magic, Cultural performances, School & Village Tours, Mt Yasur Volcano guided tour, an ancestral burial cave tour & more.....

Aquacadabra

Bijoux

Bliss

Bombora

Breeze II

Cavallino III

Chakana

Desire

Double Play

MEET THE FLEET Hideaway

Lai Lai Lady

Latitude

Levitha

Me & Mrs Jones

mySerenity

Pneuma

Saffron

Shelby

Vamp

Nautilus II

SandDallor

VENTURE FURTHER STAY LONGER

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DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS $400 OFF THE RETAIL PRICE OF NEW RAINMAN WATERMAKER SYSTEMS. Contact The Watermaker Man.

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https://www.van uatu.travel/en/l okol/nawimbamagazine

We can’t wait to welcome all the NC2V Rally Participants to Port Vila this month! yachtingworld-vanuatu.com

Experience ALL that Vanuatu has to offer with the Rocket Guide

DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS SAVE 20% WHEN YOU PURCHASE THE ROCKET CRUISING GUIDES! LEARN MORE ABOUT THE ROCKET GUIDES HERE:

DOWNUNDERRALLY.COM/ROCKET-CRUISING-GUIDES

IF YOU ANSWER YES TO THE FOLLOWING QUESTIONS, DON MCINTYRE OF MCINTYRE ADVENTURE WANTS TO HEAR FROM YOU NOW! ARE YOU UP FOR THE OCEAN GLOBE RACE? LIKE TO RACE AROUND THE WORLD ON A SWAN 57 AS PART OF A FUN EXCITING TEAM? WANT TO LEARN CELESTIAL NAVIGATION AND GAIN SOUTHERN OCEAN EXPERIENCE? ARE YOU LOOKING FOR A LIFE-DEFINING MOMENT? MAYBE YOU ARE JUST AFTER OCEAN SAILING EXPERIENCE?

IF YOU ANSWERED YES, THIS IS YOUR INVITATION TO ADVENTURE! Join us in the 2023 Ocean Globe Race, celebrating the 50th anniversary of the first 1973 Whitbread Race. To sail in the OGR is a truly unique experience. You join a special group of people and all entrants in this amazing adventure are a close-knit OGR family! The shared challenges are real, and adventure is everywhere. Safety is the number one consideration for all sailing onboard EXPLORER. People die in ocean racing, and we want all our crew home safe. Risk minimisation and watching out for everyone on board 24/7 is paramount. There are no shortcuts, and while the OGR is a race, getting home safely and enjoying this once in a lifetime experience is far more important. Don McIntyre and Jane Zouh are both commercial charter skippers with engineering endorsements. They are the team that created the Ocean Globe Race, Golden Globe Race and Mini Globe Race and are also the owners of SV Explorer. Don has Yachtmaster Ocean certification and has conducted and organised adventures all his life, including completing a single-handed circumnavigation in the 1990-91 BOC challenge, finishing second in class. He has unparalleled experience in preparing Explorer and leading the team to conduct this circumnavigation. Don also works closely with skipper Mark Sinclair.

Learn More: www. mcintyreadventure.com/explorer

BOATERS WORLD IS AN ONLINE DIRECT-TO-CONSUMER MARINE PARTS SUPPLIER Boaters World stocks a wide range of genuine and aftermarket parts such as service kits, oil filters, fuel filters, air filters, impellers, seawater pumps, spark plugs, drive belts, anodes, starter motors, alternators, heat exchangers, propellers and much more. As a stockist of Volvo Penta, SPX Johnson, Sherwood and Racor filters, and NGK Sparkplugs, you can be sure to find the parts to satisfy your needs as a cruiser. In addition to these genuine parts, we offer a large range of aftermarket brands such as Martyr anodes, Fleetguard filters, Sierra marine parts, Albin seawater pumps and impellers, Solas propellers, and many more

These premium quality aftermarket parts will fill the more price-sensitive cruisers with confidence as they sail off into the sunset.

DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS RECEIVE A 10% DISCOUNT* ON PURCHASES MADE VIA THE BOATERS WORLD ONLINE STORE. *Discount code is to be applied at the checkout. The discount code is available exclusively to Down Under Rally Members via the members portal.

LEARN MORE HERE: www.downunderrally.com/repairs

Have you checked out ALL the Discounts And Offers Down Under Rally Members receive from Our Partner Business network?

VISIT THE PARTNER DIRECTORY

Making The Most Of Your...

TENDER MOMENTS What can you do to get more use and enjoyment from your tender? To begin with, ask yourself what could be done to make your tender more user-friendly, then consider where and how you use it and what could be added to make your 'tender moments' safer, practical & more enjoyable. Here are some suggestions... If your tender is on the heavy side and difficult to pull up the beach when you go ashore, using a bungee anchor is a great solution. For light tenders, consider adding folding wheels. Be sure to choose the right type of wheels, as there are a number of options, and they do not all work in terms of the weight of the tender or the surface that you want to pull the tender across. A boarding ladder will make it easier to get back in the tender after swimming or snorkelling. A folding transom step makes it easier to board the tender when ashore. A bow cleat to attach your anchor rope to when you tie up to a pontoon. A bow bag or seat bag is a very useful addition if you don`t have a bow locker. A small storage pod mounted on the transom in the space underneath the tiller is useful for storing objects such as a fishing knife. Railblaza ports are great as a base for many activities. If you are a fisherman, a couple of Railblaza ports on the transom will hold rod holders for trolling or transportation. Additional Railblaza ports can be mounted elsewhere to allow for the movement of your fishing rods and can accommodate other items such as cup/can holders, bait boards, storage pods, navigation lights and many other items. Railblaza fittings can also be used to mount a removable bimini.

Railblazer Adhesive Multi Ports

Removable rigid, folding boarding ladder

Bow Cleat

Fold away Transom Step

Railblazer depth sounder/plotter mount

Railblazer Removable Battery Nav Light

Railblazer cup/can holders

Railblazer bimini mounts

Folding Wheels

Bungee Anchor

The above items can be purchased in-store or online from Rib Force Inflatables Gold Coast. Website: ribforceinflatables.com.au |Phone +61755737265 | Email info@ribforce.com Down Under Rally Members receive discounts at Rib Force Inflatables. More Information here: downunderrallymembers.com

Coral Sea Marina Sponsors The Great Barrier Reef Festival The annual Great Barrier Reef Festival returns in the first week in August. As an event sponsor, Coral Sea Marina is set to host two events this year, including the festival opener, "Immersive Reef Stories", on Thursday, 3 August, from 5.30 pm at Meeting Point C (South Marina). This open-air event will be a fun-filled and educational evening focusing on the magic of the Great Barrier Reef hosted by local Master Reef Guides. Register HERE. On Friday, 4 August, join us for the annual Coral Sea Marina Resort Lantern Parade and light the way from the marina to the Airlie Beach Foreshore. Join us at The Garden Bar Bistro from 5.30 pm for a 6 pm departure - bring your own lantern!

FOR FULL FESTIVAL INFO CLICK HERE.

WOMEN IN BOATING WOMEN TAKING THE HELM AT THE CORAL SEA ACADEMY With boating providing an unparalleled sense of empowerment, freedom and enjoyment, it is no wonder that we are seeing more and more women taking the helm and making the most of all that this lifestyle has to offer. Coral Sea Marina, through its Coral Sea Academy, has been actively innovating ways in which to bring together women in the boating community to encourage safety on the water, increase skills and confidence and promote better boating practices. Through the Coral Sea Academy’s “Women In Boating” events, Coral Sea Marina aims to empower women to dip their toes into the boating world. The events held throughout the year provide an opportunity for women to increase their boating knowledge in an informal and comfortable environment. They also provide space in which to network with like-minded people and be inspired by other women who share a love of the water. Recent events have included a movie night to celebrate International Women’s Day and a networking evening led by passionate women in the boating industry, who shared their ‘boating’ stories with the attendees to inspire them to get out on the water. Marlene Hicks, owner of TopNotch Fishing Charters and the creator of Billfish Babes spoke at the event and explains “The Women in Boating event provided me with both inspiration and motivation”

“It was a fantastic opportunity to connect with other women who share my passion for boating and the sea. I truly feel rejuvenated/reconnected with my love for our island lifestyle and fishing charter business too. Sometimes, stepping away from the routine and immersing ourselves in a supportive community can reignite our enthusiasm and remind us of what truly matters”.

WOMEN IN BOATING WOMEN TAKING THE HELM AT THE CORAL SEA ACADEMY Looking to the future, there are numerous Women In Boating events on the horizon. The next event on the calendar is a practical session, “Sail Training and Sunset Cruise”, taking place on Saturday, 19th August, where women are invited to hop on board vessel Fika and, under RYA Instructor Annette Hesselman’s guidance, take to the water and experience practical advice and encouragement in a women-only environment. This event costs $50 per person, and spaces are limited, so book now to avoid disappointment. Also in August, the marina will host “Hour of Power” on Tuesday, 29th August, from 6 pm at The Lookout Lounge, Coral Sea Marina. Brought to you by local business Shiift, this “Hour of Power” is a women’s personal development session designed to identify, explore, & develop self-strengths, capabilities & discover untapped potential. This event is free for attendees, and registration is via the Coral Sea Academy website. As Coral Sea Marina’s CEO, Kate Purdie, explains:

“Here at Coral Sea Marina, we believe everyone with a passion for boating should have the opportunity to become capable and confident on the water, and through the Coral Sea Academy, we hope to play a role in inspiring women of all ages to do just that.” To register for either of these Women In Boating events, contact marketing@csmr.com.au or visit coralseaacademy.com.au

ABOUT THE CORAL SEA ACADEMY The Coral Sea Academy offers a series of innovative events designed to educate guests, locals and visitors to the Whitsundays about the marine environment, the Great Barrier Reef, better boating practices and sustainability.

ABOUT CORAL SEA MARINA RESORT Coral Sea Marina is an award-winning 520-wet berth marina located in the heart of the Whitsundays and Great Barrier Reef. As the first 5 Gold Anchor Platinum accredited marina in Queensland, Coral Sea Marina offers premium marina facilities and a range of concierge services for vessels up to 80m. Coral Sea Marina is part of Coral Sea Marina Resort, a tourist destination that also includes a 77room waterfront boutique resort, two vibrant marina villages, an inspiring calendar of events and is home to 80% of the region’s on-water tourism products, making Coral Sea Marina Resort the ultimate place to stay, play, explore the Whitsundays.

Airlie Beach Queensland | 20° 16′ S 148° 43′ E P: +61 7 4946 2400 | E: marina@csmr.com.au |W: coralseamarina.com

SHACKLES AND ATTACHING RODE... WHAT IS THE BEST SET UP??

AUSTRALIA

Your Rocna or Vulcan has a slotted attachment point, meaning that a single shackle may be used. You should select the largest shackle size, the pin of which will fit through your chain end-link. Loop your shackle head through the shank shackle attachment point, fastening the pin through the end link in your chain. At Rocna Anchors Australia, we recommend the use of proof-tested shackles, especially on anchor sizes 15 kg (33 lb) and above. Stainless steel shackles are popular, but care should be taken. A forged type is preferable, and cast versions should always be proof tested. Select the largest size possible, given the maximum pin diameter that the chain end link will accept. When using G40 or stronger chain, appropriately rated high-strength alloy shackles should be used.

IMPORTANT: CONVENTIONAL SHACKLES MUST HAVE THEIR PIN SEIZED WITH TWO TURNS OF STAINLESS STEEL OR MONEL SEIZING WIRE, LEST IT WORK ITS WAY LOOSE.

LEARN MORE ABOUT CHOOSING THE RIGHT ATTACHMENTS AND HOW TO GET A DISCOUNT ON A NEW ROCNA AT... www.downunderrally.com/anchors-chain-winches

www.downunderrally.com/preparation-training

CRUISING THE QUEENSLAND COAST FAVOURITE ANCHORAGES

DOUBLE ISLAND POINT LAGOON

BY GREG LUCK

For the last 4 years, cruisers have been enjoying a lagoon that opened up at Double Island Point. It provided a flat millpond either when coming out of the Wide Bay Bar or waiting to go in. As you can see in the image below, the entry has almost closed up, and there is a log and a 4WD axle and diff obstructing it, but it was great while it lasted. It is a beautiful spot with clear water and a calm lagoon. The lagoon is in Wide Bay, a large bay open to the north but protected from southeasterly trade winds. The point and its surroundings are part of Great Sandy National Park. There is a lighthouse walk along a trail accessed from behind the beach. See this map for details. I thought it would be interesting to look back through the aerial photos from the 1950s in the following pages. As you can see, the 2019 - 2023 lagoon is by far the largest. There is a dedicated Facebook Group on the lagoon which is a great source of information. Let's hope it forms again. You can see more in Cruising the Queensland Coast.

Image Credit - Leigh Trevaskis July 2023

1958

Source: State of Queensland. Public Domain

1965

Source: State of Queensland. Public Domain

1972

1974

1979

1989

2004

2017

CLICK HERE FOR AN EXCLUSIVE OFFER ON THE GUIDE FOR DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS. www.downunderrally.com/cruising-the-queensland-coast-guide

REMEMBER GOOD OLD FASHIONED SERVICE? That's what you will get at Australian Boating Supplies!

The Hutcheson family and the staff at ABS have extensive boating experience and really do enjoy helping you with your chandlery needs. We look forward to welcoming you IN-STORE Monday to Friday 8 AM – 4:30 PM Saturday 8:30 AM -12:00 PM, OR by phone or online when it suits you

PHONE: 07 5502 8484 AUSTBOATING.COM.AU

C17 Gold Coast City Marina, 76-84 Waterway Drive, Coomera Qld. 4209

DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS RECEIVE GENUINE DISCOUNTS OFF ALL ITEMS IN-STORE, EXCLUDING ITEMS ALREADY ON SALE AND AS SUCH ALREADY DISCOUNTED.

Cruisers Contribute To Creation Of New Fiji Marine Reserve Readers of AHOY may recall an article we shared in the March 2023 issue of AHOY that was written by Birgit and Christian of s.y Pitufa about Anchoring Around Coral. Birgit & Christian set out 12 years ago and have travelled via the Med, Atlantic and Caribbean to the Pacific aboard their S&S 41 Pitufa. Read more about their travels and projects on their blog, www.pitufa.at, follow S/Y Pitufa on Facebook or read their book “Sailing Towards the Horizon” (available on Amazon).

As self-described "green cruisers", Birgit & Christian rely only on alternative energy sources and try to minimise the impact they have on the environment. Living close to nature and the elements, they witness the changes and the adverse effects of cruisers and local populations on fragile ecosystems. Whenever they feel that something's gone awry in a place that they visit, they try to take positive action, which is evident in their most recent project, the creation of the Matuku Marine Reserve at Matuku Islands in the remote Lau Group of islands in Fiji.

s.v Pitufa at Matuku Islands Southern Lau Group Fiji

The Matuku Marine Reserve - How It Came To Be By Birgit Hackl

Matuku was the first island in the Lau group we visited with our Pitufa in July 2022. The little island doesn’t see many yachts as it lies off the beaten track, and we were amazed by the hospitality the villagers showed us and the wonderful underwater landscapes that we found just off our anchorage. During our second visit to Matuku, we started raising awareness for sustainability among the villagers, starting with the kids (drawing colourful parrot fishies and talking about their role in the eco-system) and finally doing presentations for the chiefs and headmen about the problem of overfishing. We found that the fishermen were already concerned about dropping numbers of fish and eager to hear solutions for sustainable fishing. We explained our experiences among Pacific Islands and suggested installing no-fishing areas. Returning to Matuku in February, we were happy to hear that some villages were planning to implement no-fishing-zones, but then we had a horrible boat accident while scouting out a possible location for a tabu on the Southern side of the island, which left me with serious injuries and ended fatally for Maikeli Tamani, the headman of Makadru village… A week after the accident, we managed to sail back to Suva, and only after having x-rays and a CT scan done did we finally realise how serious my injuries were. Five broken ribs, a pneumothorax and a partially torn triceps tendon. Spending my days on the sofa in Pitufa’s salon without being able to move around, I started contemplating how we could turn the accident into something positive. My idea of buying medical equipment for the hospital in Matuku failed due to bureaucratic hurdles, but we wanted at least to help the villagers implement their marine protection area. We tried to raise local interest in Matuku and the planned Tabu by giving an interview to the Fiji Sun newspaper. We kept in touch with “our island” and are now happy to announce that the final decision to install 3 big, permanent no-fishing-zones! has been made!

Why Create The Matuku Marine Reserve?

By Birgit Hackl

Awareness of the need to protect the environment and its resources is slowly growing in Fiji. Conservation International and their Lau Seascape Strategy are doing studies and setting ambitious goals to protect the ocean and its wildlife, but when we talk to people in the villages of remote islands, we still get the impression that sustainability remains an abstract concept. Many of the reefs are horribly overfished and empty—especially those of islands with a town or resort nearby. Fishermen go out every day (and worse, every night) to catch the last little reef fish to make a profit today without contemplating what they’ll do tomorrow. Over the last few years, electricity has arrived in the remotest areas of Fiji and with the installation of freezers, the fishermen of those islands also get the chance to export fish and make some quick money. Unfortunately, the reefs cannot provide enough fish for that kind of economy. While the ocean provided for centuries to the islanders who were doing subsistence fishing (and farming), modern fishing techniques and export deplete the resources of a small island within a few years. We have been cruising in the South Pacific for 10 years and have spent lots of time snorkelling reefs in French Polynesia, Tonga, the Cook Islands and now in Fiji. Unfortunately, many of the reefs are nearly empty and without herbivore fish to clean them, the corals get overgrown by algae. Often, we return from a dive sad and depressed. But sometimes we find a healthy reef that still has a diversity of wildlife, and then we try to talk to the fishermen about the necessity to limit fishing/harvesting and protect at least certain areas to ensure the future of the eco-system (important for the world), but also the future of subsistence fishing (very important for them). If they just smile about our naive “touristy” concerns, we don’t get into an argument, it’s not worth it. But if they are interested, show that they have noticed changes and are concerned about them, we are happy to share what we have witnessed on other islands across the Pacific, show examples of islands that are faring well due to careful resource management and others where now frantic protection efforts are made, but where it’s too late already, and the reefs are dead and empty. The people of Matuku in the southwestern Lau (Moala Group) have made a big step towards sustainable fishing by installing 3 big “Tabu” no-fishing zones around their island. We visited the island three times over the last year, chatted with the villagers, took a presentation about sustainability to the local school and had meetings with the chiefs and headmen. Soon they agreed that they had to take measures to ensure a future for their fishing grounds—Matuku has fertile gardens, but fish is nevertheless one of the cornerstones of their nutrition. First, they wanted to install tabu areas for a limited time, then they contemplated only prohibiting night-time fishing, but in the end, we managed to persuade them that having a complete, permanent fishing ban for a big area is the most efficient way to protect the fish and ensure good fishing for the community around the limits of such a “tabu” area. The smaller ones on the southern and eastern sides of the island are difficult to visit by sailboat, but the biggest one is located just off the main pass on the western side of the island with a wonderfully protected anchorage in the bay of Lomati close by! If you cruise in the Lau Islands of Fiji, make a stop-over in Matuku, enjoy the wonderful snorkelling, praise the islanders for their environmental efforts and leave a donation to help them maintain and patrol their “tabu” no-fishing zones: the islanders are worried that fishing expeditions from the mainland or from neighbouring islands may come to plunder their reefs at night… If you can’t make it to Matuku but would still like to support the project, you can MAKE A DONATION HERE

Why Create A Tabu Area?

By Birgit Hackl

As cruisers, we live close to nature, visit many different places, can compare them and witness how they change over time. Too many of the reefs are overfished as it is, so cruisers really shouldn’t deplete the reef fish even more during their visits. However, a few islands are still untouched and teeming with life, but wouldn’t it be much nicer to just marvel at the diversity of life and watch their behaviour instead of going spearfishing? If you just take one grouper and one coconut crab, imagine what happens if all boats following in your wake will do the same. Our advice to fellow sailors is to live after the old motto, “take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints”. If you’d like to take this philosophy a bit further and have a positive influence, you could also try to talk to islanders about fishing and raise awareness for sustainability. Here’s a summary of the points we like to raise when we raise the subject: Communities in the Pacific Islands have successfully managed and protected their coastal marine areas for many hundreds of years. But nowadays, the oceans and their fish suffer from global changes like:

increasing human populations climate change pollution Also, the local fishing activity around the islands has changed thanks to the following: outboards flashlights for night-time fishing freezers to store fish As soon as the fishing is no longer meant to feed the island population but to export for profit, reef fishing is not sustainable because the resources of a reef are very limited! When implemented successfully, tabu areas have the potential to ensure activities in coastal marine areas, particularly fishing, are sustainable and will provide marine resources for future generations. For communities, a key motivation is that tabu areas will result in improved catches of seafood in nearby fishing areas. However, tabu areas must be carefully designed and managed to achieve this aim. They should implement a variety of habitats and be big enough to allow the fish to move without leaving the boundaries immediately. When the number of fish has already substantially decreased, it is also difficult to reverse the process.

The Key Is To Protect Early Enough While There Is Still A Healthy Reef With A Variety Of Fish!

Why Create A Permanent Tabu Area?

By Birgit Hackl

Research shows that only complete, permanent closures are successful. They provide the time species need to grow, breed and in some cases, recover to benefit the region. This can take many years for some species. The benefits of an area closed for several years can be eroded after only one day of being re-opened to fishing.

NOW

AFTER 5 YEARS FISHING

Effective tabu areas need permanent closure to protect big fish that are much more reproductive than small fish (super breeders) and guarantee overflow around the protected zone.

NOW

IN 5 YEARS

IN 10 YEARS

Tabu Size Matters

By Birgit Hackl

The size of tabu areas is also critical to their success. Tabu areas on fringing reefs should protect from the shore across the reef flat and out past the reef crest to ensure all species in the area are offered protection.

Graph taken from Gombos, M., Atkinson, S., Green, A., Flower, K. (Eds) (2013) Designing Effective Locally Managed Areas in Tropical Marine Environments

The size of the tabu area will depend on the life cycle and natural range of movement of the protected fish species. If the tabu is not big enough to cover all endangered species, it makes sense to protect these species even outside the tabu! For example, no shark fishing all around the island, no grouper fishing during the spawning season, etc.

Tabu Location Matters

By Birgit Hackl

Coral reefs, seagrass and mangroves provide critical habitats for many marine animals for spawning (e.g., reef fish), feeding (e.g., turtles) and nursery areas (e.g. for reef fish and sharks). Tabu areas should include habitats that support different life cycle stages. For example, many fish babies need the protection of mangrove forests to grow up. Later, they spend their adult lives on coral reefs.

Graph taken from Gombos, M., Atkinson, S., Green, A., Flower, K. (Eds) (2013) Designing Effective Locally Managed Areas in Tropical Marine Environments

Why Are Coral Reefs So Important? They protect the shoreline from storms and surge water. Barrier reefs reduce waves, buffer the shores and prevent erosion. They form a protected habitat for a huge variety of fish. Most corals and sponges, as well as clams, are filter feeders, so they contribute to enhanced quality and clarity of our nearshore waters. Communities can achieve a sustainable income from eco-tourism and dive tourism if they have a healthy reef with many attractions (big fish, turtles, sharks) But all around the world, reefs are damaged and dying because of: Global warming Pollution Overfishing

NO REEF, NO FISH!

A Balanced Eco-System Matters

By Birgit Hackl

Coral reefs support an incredible diversity of fish. Everything from lobsters and octopuses to sea turtles and dolphins depends on the reef for food, habitat and protection. Each animal plays an important role in the reef ecosystem by filtering water, consuming prolific algae or keeping a particular species under control. These balanced relationships keep the marine ecosystems diverse and abundant with life. Sharks eat sick fish and prevent the spreading of diseases.

Turtles eat dangerous jellyfish and keep seaweed under control.

Parrot fish are the cleaners of the reef. They eat seaweed, algae and keep the rocks clean so that coral can grow. If there is overfishing, there are not enough fish to clean the coral, so damaged coral cannot recover…

A reef can recover from damage if it contains a balanced ecosystem and if there are enough fish to clean it..

NO FISH, NO REEF!

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Sustaining A Burn Offshore... "Sailing is a balance of risk verse reward" By James Coomer - s.v mySerenity

A nice warm cup of tea or maybe coffee is something most of us enjoy during a night watch, but like many things we do whilst at sea, performing even the simplest of activities can be dangerous, as James of mySerenity learned during his passage from the Gold Coast To New Caledonia. Before we learn what happened, I feel it is important to point out that James has participated in several previous Down Under Rally events, and his diligence and attention to detail in all matters relating to preparing his vessel & crew for ocean passage making has been exemplary. In fact, I would go as far as saying James is obsessive (in the best possible way) in his endeavours to ensure the safety of his vessel and crew, yet despite these efforts, James was to experience a serious injury that should serve as a lesson to us all...

Two nights out from Australia to New Caledonia, the seas were confused, swell being 2 - 3 metres with a 10-second timing. The winds had started to subside from the previous 24 hours (20 knots - gusting 25kts). mySerenity was in her element and making good headway at 7 - 9 knots with two reefs in the main and the Genoa furled by a third. My two crew were tucked up snugly in bed. I was on the second hour of the 12:00 - 03:00 watch. The Autopilot was engaged and managing the conditions with ease, all was well. I came down to the saloon to make a lemon and ginger tea the last before bedtime, an hour away. Our crew manual policy was to always use the sink for hot liquids to avoid spills while underway. The microwave, cooktop and oven were off limits with any whitecaps on the water. The kettle had boiled, and a half cup of tea was poured. About half a cup of water remained in the kettle (both in the sink). I had braced myself, my body against the cooktop bench, legs apart and started to replace the kettle further aft behind the sink. Picking up the cup of tea in the trough of the wave, the starboard hull slowly rose up the swell, except this time, it kept rising up…and up…and up. The yacht's starboard hull suddenly dropped over the other side of the wave with a thump on the lower bridge deck.

The impact of the wave was enough to wake a crewmember who was asleep in the starboard hull. The sideways momentum forced me to start a slow, gradual slide from the port galley side, across the saloon floor to the starboard steps, and then down the steps into the starboard hull. During the slide, I deliberately dropped to a seated position. A cup of nice lemon and ginger tea followed me to my seated position along with a towel from the table, two throw mats (supposed to be non-slip) and some charging cables; we all went in slow motion, sliding across the floor as the yacht ascended the wave side to its trough. It seemed to take forever. I remained seated in the hull till the top of the next wave. Once the yacht settled in the next wave trough, I saw a shadow of my crewmember sitting up in bed who had rolled heavily in his bed asking: “What the hell was that?” I explained what had happened, apologised for waking him up, got all the bits together and went back up the steps into the saloon. The internal chartplotter showed we were still en route and engaged in track mode…perfect. mySerenity was back in stride as though nothing had happened but I was to discover several things happened.... While ascending the starboard steps, I noticed my teabag on our beautiful clean couch. Feeling my left arm, it was hot and wet. The half-filled tea cup had taken flight and chose to land upside down on my arm. I didn't think too much of it as I had a very thick jumper (jersey) protecting my arm. (It wasn't until later that the surgeon indicated this may have been the telling fact for the severity of the resultant burn.) Having recently completed an Offshore First Aid Course with Heart Training as part of the crew preparation recommended by The Down Under Rally, I remember Wendy (our course instructor) asking us during the burns component of the course. “What is the first thing you do with a burn?” (I remember this as plain as day). "Put it under cold running water”. For how long? 20 minutes". So I did that, but only for 10 minutes. I didn’t want to keep our precious water running for 20 minutes. Added to this, the noisy water pump motor was next to the bed of the crewmember coming up on the next shift. I put the plug in the sink, thinking that may save water, but the sloshing caused by the movement of the boat forced me to pull the plug out before it ended up on the floor, potentially making a difficult situation even worse with a wet floor.

After the ten-minute water run, I used an ice pack until the end of my shift (40 minutes later). It actually moulded nicely between the jumper and my arm. I awoke four hours later, my arm feeling a little stingy, but the ocean swell and winds had started to dissipate and it looked like a stunning sailing day ahead. Feeling refreshed from my rest, I consulted the International Medical Guide for Ships and located the burns section. Diving into the Cat 1 Extended Offshore First Aid Kit, I located a gel dressing specific for burns. Opened it and placed it over the wound area. At this stage, there were no blisters or even discolouration. It was just uncomfortable. This dressing worked a treat, and for the next 24 hours, I felt fine, just taking a few Panadol as a precaution. Little did I know at the time that I had sustained two third-degree burns, an area of seconddegree with the remained of the affected area being a first-degree burn. Whilst on passage and again on the recommendation of the Down Under Rally, we supplied a daily midday position report each day with Peter Mott of Passage Guardian, and this day in the ‘comments’, I wrote that ‘crewmember had sustained a scald from boiling water’ to which Peter replied that the Medical information was noted. We were in a very fortunate position to have two medical practitioners (family members) who work in emergency and who were aware of our medical kit contents and available for opinions with this type of challenge. Additionally, we had just installed Starlink, allowing us to video call these practitioners whilst on passage. We continued dressing the affected area. By the third day of the burn, we moved to a cream that had anaesthetic and anti-bacterial properties. This was amazing, to the point that I could feel very little discomfort. Over the ensuing three days, blisters had formed and, in their own time, eventually popped.

On day 5 of the voyage, we arrived at Ilot Maitre (New Caledonia), and I began using Flamazine™ to treat the burn. This is used to prevent infection specific to burns and to help remove dead tissue. It soon sorted the men from the boys with the third-degree blister areas turned white.

Our practitioners then instructed us to seek medical help at an Emergency Hospital, as they were not comfortable with what they saw. The staff at the New Caledonian Hospital (40 minutes north of Noumea) were exceptionally helpful, quick and very professional. They assessed that surgery may be required, giving me two options. Allow them to investigate a suitable outcome further and spend two weeks close to the hospital, or get the first flight to Australia and seek emergency help there. We chose the latter. As mentioned earlier, the outcome was that there were two third-degree burns, an area of seconddegree and the rest first-degree. With the exception of the third-degree burn areas, the healing was going exceptionally well. I was complimented by both hospitals on wound care, and at the time of writing, I am yet to take any oral antibiotics. The images below show the injury healing after the skin graft was carried out.

James has since returned to New Caledonia and is enjoying cruising the islands and lagoon with fellow Go East Rally participants.

So as I see it, It all stems back to risk verse reward... Is the risk of something warm on a cold night (that you may have done many times before), worth the reward? If so, have a plan B for when it comes unstuck. With the benefit of hindsight and, more importantly, a clear non-fatigued mind, I would like to share these thoughts...

Yes, we could use a thermos for hot water (which we used to do). In our/this case, it could have ended up being a projectile. This is the exact reason they are frowned upon on aircraft. I should have kept the water running for 20 minutes over the wound area. We had separated our freshwater tanks into two 300-litre units for passage-making, so we still had 300 litres to spare if it came to that. I am grateful to have completed the Down Under Rally Offshore Cruising Preparation Course. It's from the course pre-departure planning and advice that we formulated a process for such an event, and it ran like clockwork. What are the takeaways from this successful burn management? 1. Carrying the International Medical Guide for Ships. 2. Burn gel dressings, burn cream (that contained an anaesthetic and antibiotic), and Flamazine™ are at the top of the list. 3. Have a way of getting medical help as soon as possible. Preferably with someone who knows your First Aid Kit contents 4. Completed a recent specific Offshore First Aid Course. What changes will I make to our First Aid Kit? 1. The non-stick gauze dressings - increased from 4 to 20 (2 per day). 2. The gauze bandage rolls - increased from 4 to 15 (1 every two days). 3. The burn-gel dressings - increased from one to two. 4. The burn cream remains at one (it must contain an anaesthetic and antibiotic). As always, you should always seek professional advice and use this experience to add to your first aid toolkit. In closing, I would like to leave you with the thought below and mention that I am in no way sponsored by any persons or company mentioned in this article, nor have I received any form of remuneration from them. – James C.

“The armchair critic might say, don't use hot water on passage. In response to such critics, I would encourage them to stay in bed, as getting up to use the toilet, they may slip and break a hip...happened to the bloke lying next to me whilst I was recovering at the hospital.”

James has a very informative website called diycatamaran.com, where he shares a wealth of knowledge spanning his 20-year journey that includes building his first catamaran and his many adventures along the way up to & including the journey that has led him to achieve his long-held dream to sail his own yacht from Australia to the South Pacific.

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Evolution Sails has been the local sail loft of choice supporting local sailors and cruisers visiting the Gold Coast for more than 30 years. Centrally located within 18min from Boatworks and Gold Coast City Marina to the North and Southport Yacht Club to the south at Sails Evolution Sails Evolution has been theGold local sail loft Coast, wesupporting specialise in and of choice local sailors manufacturing andGold servicing cruisers visiting the Coast for more cruising and All racing sailsarefor than 30 years. our sails Australianyachts, catamarans, made by ussports in our boats loft! and dinghies. Repairs and recuts are done promptly and efficiently with a fast turnaround time. Boombag stack-packs, boom covers, trampolines, rope and chandlery, complement our full range of services.

PROVIDE YOUR DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBER NUMBER WHEN YOU ENQUIRE FOR SPECIAL OFFERS FROM EVOLUTION SAILS

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PEAK MARINE SURVEYS PRE-PURCHASE & INSURANCE MARINE SURVEYS BLUEWATER VESSEL PREPARATION ASSESSMENTS Tim Grant of PEAK MARINE has worked as a professional in the marine industry since 2008 and logged over 40,000 nautical miles, including having competed at the highest level in Yacht Racing, obtaining 3rd place overall in the 2018 Sydney to Hobart Ocean Race. As a commercially qualified skipper and engineer, Tim has also completed a circumnavigation in 2019-2020 in the company of cruising yachties and witnessed many of the challenges and situations owners of cruising yachts have faced that could have been avoided had the vessel undergone a thorough inspection prior to the voyage by someone of a meticulous nature who knows what to look for. Servicing Sunshine Coast, Gold Coast, Brisbane, Tin Can Bay, Hervey Bay and other areas on request.

Australian and Internationally Recognised Yacht Surveyor Member International Institute of Marine Surveying (IIMS) Member Australasian Institute of Marine Surveyors (AIMS)

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W: PEAKMARINE.COM.AU E: INFO@PEAKMARINE.COM.AU PH: 0434 061 431

SOUTHERN QUEENSLAND CRUISING YACHT HAVEN Located ON Brisbane's Moreton Bay, Scarborough Marina provides visiting yachts with easy access to the many anchorages and the islands of Moreton Bay, including Moreton Island and the Tangalooma Wrecks. The City of Brisbane and the Brisbane international airport are only 40mins away, with Public Transport right at our door. The suburb of Scarborough is home to families and retirees who form part of the safe & friendly community. With the convenience of waterfront Cafes, Clubs & Restaurants plus major shopping centres and medical services nearby and our popular weekend farmers & craft markets, Scarborough really is a home away from home!

Recognised by the international cruising community as the preferred destination when visiting the Brisbane Region. Safe Enclosed Harbour Protected from swell & unaffected by flooding. Clean, Modern & Well Maintained Facilities Modern Cruisers Lounge with TV and free WIFI Electronic gated Access, with 24 Hour CCTV Monitoring 24 Hour Fuel Wharf Full-Service Boatyard with 35 Tonne Travelift On-Site Chandlery

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Tangalooma Anchorage Moreton Island

PH: +61 7 3880 0300

SCARBMARINA.COM.AU info@scarbmarina.com.au

With 12 vessels having already registered as participants in the 2023 Go West Rally, it is looking like 2023 might be a big year! Of these 12 registrations, 5 are from the UK, 3 are from the USA, 1 is from Sweden and 3 are from Australia. Pictured below are Estehr Of Sweden (left), currently cruising Frech Polenesia & Capall Mara (right), Australia, currently cruising Vanuatu.

Find out why Sailing To Australia with the Go West Rally makes sense even if you are 'not rally people'.

www.downunderrally.com/go-west-rally

East Coast Marina, Manly Boat Harbour, Brisbane, Australia offer 330 secure water berths, catering for boats up to 18m.

Located less than 10nm to the south of the Brisbane river mouth Manly Boat Harbour is the perfect base for visiting yachts and East Coast Marina has long been a favourite of the international yachting community.

A variety of public transport options that will take you directly to Brisbane City and the Brisbane International Airport are within walking distance of the marina The Manly Village is only a short walk away, offering a grocery store, post office, news agency, chemist, coffee shops, restaurants and more. Markets are on some Saturdays and every Sunday.

EAST COAST MARINA Phone: +61 7 3393 3811 Email: info@eastcoastmarina.com.au Location: Latitude…27º27.6′ S Longitude…153º11.2′E VISIT OUR WEBSITE www.eastcoastmarina.com.au

DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS OFFER. *15% off casual marina berth rates *subject to availability at time of booking and confirmation of current DUR membership.

WELCOME WEEK DOWN UNDER The Down Under Rally & Bundaberg Port Marina are looking forward to hosting the 2023 Go West Rally Welcome Week! As the name suggests, Welcome Week is all about welcoming the owners and crew of visiting international yachts to our Land Down Under. All Welcome Week events, including our informative Cruising The East Coast of Australia seminars, are FREE to attend for Go West Rally participants.

2022 Go West Rally Participants

downunderrally.com/welcome-week

SECURE YACHT STORAGE For over 25 years, Bundaberg Port Marina has been dedicated to ensuring our guests and visitors have an enjoyable experience from their arrival to their departure. We are an official ‘Port of Entry” clearance facility for both inbound and outbound vessels, and well respected throughout the international cruising community. This year we opened our new 20, 24 and 45m berths, and these additions are proving to be very popular accommodating vessels looking for modern well-serviced berths. As one of the largest on the east coast, our Hardstand and Dry Storage options can accommodate up to 140 vessels.

Our Dry Storage facility allows owners from both Australia and overseas to leave their vessel and return home with the knowledge that their vessel is stored in a safe and secure enclosure over the summer months. Many owners return the following year to recommence their journey directly from the cruising grounds of the Southern Great Barrier Reef. Bundaberg Port Marina is located far enough south to miss the majority of the severe weather patterns of northeastern Australia during our summer storm season, and all vessels are racked in fully engineered cradles and secured to the ground. The procedure we use to secure vessels is widely accepted by international insurance companies to minimise their risk exposure. The dry storage area is fully fenced, and we can complete all vessel checks whilst you are away from your vessel. When you return ready for your next adventure, you can rest assured that your vessel has been maintained and is ready for the journey.

BOAT YARD AND SHIPLIFT SERVICES Our 75-tonne travelift can lift vessels up to a 6.6m beam, and our hardstand facility currently has a team of professional and caring staff with vast and varied experience to ensure schedules are met. With convenient and close on-site access to several trades, including mechanics, shipwrights, welders, engineers, painters, and sandblasting, the process of boat maintenance is made an easy, hassle-free experience for all.

We are excited in the knowledge that we will be greeting a number of both International and Australian guests again this year, and If you are a Down Under Rally Member and have joined the 2023 Go West Rally, we have some great specials available to you. (conditions apply) MARINA SPECIAL OFFER Receive a 15% discount on the first 15 days of your stay. HARDSTAND SPECIAL OFFER Pay for 5 days on the hardstand and receive 2 extra days free. Pay for 2 weeks on the hardstand and receive 3 extra days free. DRY STORAGE SPECIAL OFFER Pay for 3 months dry storage in advance and receive a 10% discount.. MARINA GIFT SHOP SPECIAL OFFER Receive a 15% discount on gift shop purchases.

Phone: Within Australia: 07 4159 5066 | From Overseas +61 7 4159 5066 E: info@bundabergportmarina.com.au | W: bundabergportmarina.com.au

2023 WELCOME WEEK EVENT CALENDAR RSVP is required for all events. Events are subject to change at the discretion of the Down Under Rally organisers.

MONDAY, 30TH OCTOBER 8.00 AM - 9.00 AM - YOGA4YACHTIES: WHERE: Bundaberg Port Marina - Cruisers Cove

All Welcome - Beginners through to Experienced Yogi’s - FREE to attend for the captain and first mate of each vessel that is a registered rally participant. $10.00pp for everyone else. 11.00 AM - 1.00 PM - EVENT REGISTRATION: WHERE: Bundaberg Port Marina Cruisers Cove Confirm your registration to attend Welcome Week Events & Collect your Welcome Packs.

6.00 PM - 10.00 PM - WELCOME COCKTAIL PARTY *MAJOR PRIZE GIVEAWAY EVENT WHERE: Baltimore Restaurant Bundaberg Port Marina 6:00 pm: Welcome to Country Ceremony 6:30 pm - 10:00 pm: Live Music. Complimentary Canapes are served throughout the evening. *The Welcome Down Under Cocktail Party is FREE to attend for the Captain & First Mate of each vessel that is a registered rally participant. *Crew members & all others are welcome to attend however The ticket price is $40.00 pp

TUESDAY, 31ST OCTOBER 12.30 PM - 2.30 PM - SURVIVING DOWN UNDER/VHF & WEATHER *MAJOR PRIZE GIVEAWAY EVENT WHERE: Lighthouse Hotel

Surviving Down Under. A light-hearted presentation about the Aussie culture & way of life to help you understand us Aussies & make your time Down Under more enjoyable. VHF Channels & Weather Down Under. What VHF Channel to monitor and use. Understanding the forecast areas, how, where and when to get forecasts. East Coast weather - what to watch out for! East Coast Cruising Intro. A brief introduction to cruising the East Coast of Australia 3.00 PM - 5.00 PM - EAST COAST CRUISING - BUNDABERG TO SOUTHPORT A detailed presentation on sailing route options and stopovers for the passage from Bundaberg to Southport. 5.00 PM - 8.00 PM - SUNDOWNERS & PUB GRUB! WHERE: Lighthouse Hotel

5.00 pm - 6.00 pm: Sundowners at the Lighthouse Bar. 6.00 pm - 8.00 pm: Take your pick from the menu at the pub. *Drinks & ,meals are at your own expense. *MAJOR PRIZE GIVEAWAY EVENTS: Rally Participants who attend any nominated major prize giveaway event will go into the draw to win a major prize. Limit of one major prize per registration. Participants must be present at the event to claim the prize.

2023 WELCOME WEEK EVENT CALENDAR RSVP is required for all events. Events are subject to change at the discretion of the Down Under Rally organisers.

WEDNEYDAY 1ST NOVEMBER 8.00 AM - 9.00 AM -YOGA4YACHTIES WHERE: Bundaberg Port Marina - Cruisers Cove

All Welcome - Beginners through to Experienced Yogi’s - FREE to attend for the captain and first mate of each vessel that is a registered rally participant. $10.00pp for everyone else. 10.30 AM - 12.30 PM - EAST COAST CRUISING: TWEED HEADS TO SYDNEY *MAJOR PRIZE GIVEAWAY EVENT WHERE: Lighthouse Hotel Join us for an informative and detailed presentation on sailing route options and stopovers for the passage from Tweed Heads to Sydney.

1:30 PM -3:30 PM - EAST COAST CRUISING - BUNDABERG TO CAIRNS & BEYOND WHERE:Lighthouse Hotel Join us for an informative and detailed presentation on the sailing route options and stopovers for the passage from Bundaberg to far north Queensland.

6:30 PM - 9:30 PM - OUTDOOR MOVIE & PIZZA NIGHT (Weather Permitting) WHERE: Bundaberg Port Marina - Cruisers Cove 6.30 pm - 7:00 pm - Pizza Party Place your Pizza Order at Baltimore Restaurant before 10:00 am Wednesday, 1st November. Pick up your Pizza between 6:00 & 6:30 pm and head over to cruisers cove. Bring a salad or dessert to share. BYO plates/cutlery etc. *Pizzas are at your own expense. 7:30pm - 9:30pm 'The Castle’ The Castle is one of the all-time favourite classic Aussie movies. During your time in Australia, sooner or later, someone will ask, "Have you seen The Castle." BYO, comfy chair, popcorn and beverages!

THURSDAY 2ND NOVEMBER 11:00 AM - 12.30 PM EAST COAST CRUISING: SYDNEY TO TASMANIA

WHERE: Lighthouse Hotel Join us for an informative presentation on route options and stopovers for the passage from Sydney to Tasmania. 1:30 PM - 2:30 PM - LAND CRUISING DOWN UNDER *MAJOR PRIZE GIVEAWAY EVENT

If you plan to do some ‘Land Cruising’ during your time in Australia, you will find this presentation interesting. We look at each of the states & territories, the different attractions they offer and what time of the year is best to travel.

5:30 PM - 6:30 PM BEERS, BUBBLES 'N' PRAWNS WHERE? Bundaberg Port Marina - Cruisers Cove

A tub of freshly cooked prawns, a couple of beers or a glass of wine will be waiting for the Captain and First Mate from each boat registered for the rally. (Compliments of the Down Under Rally and Bundaberg Port Marina). Make a meal of it and bring along a salad, side dish or dessert! *Crew members & are welcome to attend - Ticket price is $40.00 pp

6:30 PM - 9:30 PM - "JAMMIN" Bring your instruments and vocal cords to join in for a jam session with your fellow cruisers and maybe a few locals.

EAST COAST CRUISING SEMINARS "full of necessary and otherwise hard-to-find information" s.v Moondance 2022Go West Rally Participant

FREE TO ATTEND FOR 2023 GO WEST RALLY PARTICIPANTS

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The Not So Hard Life! The prospect of living aboard on the hardstand is not something liveaboard cruisers look forward to, but when your boat is your home, it is inevitable. In many cases, what is even less appealing is the added expense and inconvenience of having to find somewhere else to live whilst your home is 'on the hard'. At the Boat Works Gold Coast, they not only welcome liveaboard cruisers, but they also cater for them, which is evident in the dedicated 5,000-square-metre liveaboard hardstand precinct specifically designed to cater for the needs of the liveaboard cruising community when they are 'on the hard'.

It’s the ideal ‘Cruising HQ’ for cruising customers who can meet others from around the region and the world, take advantage of the fresh produce growing on-site, bathrooms, laundry, recycled water, plus access to the Super Chandlery and access all the trades and resources in the Marine Precinct. Shane Subichin GM

Accommodating up to 16 cruising catamarans and monohulls, the exclusive liveaboard hardstand precinct is ideal for cruising yacht & catamaran owners to undertake their own antifoul and maintenance works in the company of like-minded sailors with access to amenities including:

Ensuites & laundries Fully air-conditioned lounge BBQ & Kitchen facilities Veggie garden Indoor-outdoor recreational areas Cafes & Restaurants Free courtesy cars & more

All of these facilities are absolutely five-star. We really appreciate the effort to make us feel welcome and at home. Jan & Richard, SV ‘Morpheus of London’

A MESSAGE FROM THE BOAT WORKS We want your stay to be as convenient and enjoyable as possible. We also understand that you ultimately want to be 'out there', not 'in here', so we encourage our customers to BOOK YOUR MARINE TRADES AT LEAST 4 WEEKS PRIOR TO YOUR HAUL OUT. THE BOAT WORKS – BOATYARD | SUPERYACHT YARD | MARINA 1 Boatworks Drive, Coomera QLD 4209 Gold Coast Marine Precinct P: (07) 55 000 000 E: admin@theboatworks.com.au

www.theboatworks.com.au

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This is the fifth instalment in an AHOY Sailing News series written by Richard Chesher about critical health issues you can easily avoid when cruising the tropics – IF you learn from other cruisers' mistakes and get serious about protecting yourself and your crew.

H E A L T H Y C R U I S I N G

Every cruiser knows they will face dangers from the weather, equipment failure, collisions with other vessels, and accidents. A sensible captain takes precautions to prevent these accidents by getting good weather forecasts, maintaining the vessel’s equipment, using lights and AIS and keeping watch at sea, having a good medical kit and safety equipment aboard, etc. And most cruisers know what to do if these dangers surprise them at sea. But an amazing number of cruisers have no idea how to defend against the health dangers lying in wait for them when they arrive in remote tropical areas far from medical care. If you get sick from contaminated water, attacked by malaria, a deadly blood virus-like dengue fever, parasites, fish poisoning or a flesh-eating microbe, it will be a long and expensive ordeal and may cause permanent disabilities or even kill you or one of your crew.

Health issues are serious dangers for mariners but few cruisers take elementary precautions to protect themselves and their crew. Disease organisms kill more people yearly than all the maritime and diving accidents, shark, sea serpent, crocodile, sea wasp, or even pirate attacks combined.

"Smart people learn from their mistakes, smarter people learn from other peoples' mistakes."

You and your crew truly want to avoid getting sick or injured anywhere, but this is especially the case when cruising far from medical support. The good news is that most cruisers avoid serious health issues either through luck or prudence.

To be sure the good news applies to you and your crew, follow these three very simple rules:

1. FIND OUT WHAT HEALTH DANGERS ARE LURKING BEFORE YOU SET SAIL. 2. DON’T LET THEM GET YOU.

BY RICHARD CHESHER, PH.D.

3. KNOW WHAT TO DO IF YOU FAIL.

H U M A N T O H U M A N H E A L T H D A N G E R S

Q: WHAT ARE THE RISKS? #1. HUMAN HEALTH DANGERS FOR CRUISERS With COVID-19 depopulating the planet, international cruising became difficult or impossible. Thankfully that has been resolved – at least for now - and there are lots of other viral, bacterial, parasitic, and fungal diseases caught from being in close proximity – or physical contact – with other humans. Cruisers are more at risk from these diseases than most people because they spend a lot of time in isolation, and when they come in contact with a new population of people, their immune systems have very little resistance to the new varieties of diseases.

#2. PREVENTING HUMAN-TRANSMITTED DISEASES If you are sailing out into the blue for an extended time, it would be worthwhile to get or update vaccinations against tetanus, cholera, typhoid and yellow fever. The Australian Department of Health offers a list of vaccines for travel. www.health.gov.au/topics/immunisation/when-to-get-vaccinated/immunisation-for-travel According to the World Health Organization (WHO), some countries require proof of vaccination against specific diseases at border checks. The most widely used vaccination record is the International Certificate of Vaccination or Prophylaxis (ICVP or Carte Jaune/Yellow Card). The list of countries requiring an ICVP for entry is extensive and includes The Gambia, Indonesia, Lebanon, Libya, and the Philippines. The WHO recently announced a new digital proof of vaccination system similar to that developed for COVID 19. www.who.int/news/item/05-06-2023-the-european-commissionand-who-launch-landmark-digital-health-initiative-to-strengthen-global-health-security

H U M A N

Q: WHAT ARE THE RISKS? #2. PREVENTING HUMAN-TRANSMITTED DISEASES (CONTINUED) However, there are lots of other diseases out there, and the very best way to prevent them is to avoid getting them. These simple precautions will minimize the risk of getting sick from other people.

T O H U M A N H E A L T H D A N G E R S

1. Wash your hands or use hand sanitiser after shopping and after shaking hands (or don’t shake hands at all). In French countries, don’t participate in the usual French Kiss Greeting. 2. Wash your hands for a minimum of 20 seconds the instant you return to your yacht. 3. Avoid touching your eyes, mouth or nose with your hands whenever you are ashore. 4. Avoid sick people and crowds, especially indoors (like in bars). If there is a cruise ship in port, don’t shop where the passenger's shop (cruise ships are major importers of the latest flu). 5. Cover your mouth when you sneeze or cough, and wash your hands afterwards. 6. Wear an N95-rated mask if you can’t avoid crowds or areas where there are sick people. 7. Eat aboard and practice good sanitation with your food. 8. Never drink tap water or drinks with ice when ashore. 9. Quarantine entry to your yacht. If someone wants to come aboard, or if you want to invite someone aboard for drinks, always ask if they are, or have recently been, sick. Not the ritual, “How are you?” Or “How’s it going?” resulting in a ritual reply, “Fine, Good, Never Better”. Ask directly, “Are you contagious?” or, even better, “Do you have the flu or cold?” If they do have a contagious disease and come aboard to spend the evening down below in the cabin of your yacht, you will catch whatever bug they have for sure. Reciprocate – if you visit another yacht or are invited aboard, tell them you have the flu, a cold, or whatever and do not go aboard to share it with them.

H U M A N T O H U M A N H E A L T H D A N G E R S

Q: WHAT ARE THE RISKS? #3 WHAT TO DO IF YOU CATCH A DISEASE FROM SOMEONE. If you are somewhere with reasonable medical facilities, see a doctor. If you are cruising where there is no medical help or the doctors and hospitals are more dangerous than most of the common diseases, you’d better have a good medical kit aboard with broad-spectrum antibiotics and pills to treat a variety of diseases. You may have to weather the disease aboard your yacht, wherever it happens to be at the time. If it is a highly contagious disease, you can be sure the whole crew will come down with it. It’s so much better to take elementary precautions and not catch diseases from other people.

PLAN AHEAD

What are you going to do if you or one of your crew gets seriously sick or injured while you are anchored in a remote island anchorage or at sea, days from help of any kind? You need to know, before you set sail for that tropical paradise, what medical supplies to have on board and be sure everyone knows where they are and how to use them effectively. You also need an emergency plan and medical insurance for you and every member of your crew that includes emergency rescue and evacuation from wherever you are going to where you can get medical treatment. Medical evacuations by air cost about $50,000 or more these days, and many countries now require each member of the crew to show proof of medical insurance with repatriation included before allowing your yacht to enter the country. You and your crew also need to decide, in advance, who’s going to take charge of dealing with the government officials, the medical team and the yacht itself if the captain is injured or has died. Not a happy topic but one you need to include in your pre-voyage planning sessions.

A B O U T T H E A U T H O R

Richard and Frederique Chesher began cruising the Pacific aboard their Peterson 44 cutter in 1976. Richard is a PhD marine scientist, and Frederique is an artist and professional photographer. Together they created and publish the Rocket Cruising Guide to New Caledonia and the Rocket Cruising Guide to Vanuatu, widely praised as the best cruising guides in the world. Rocket Guides are programs for Windows and Mac computers (not Ipads or Android tablets). They are unlike any other kind of cruising guide you’ve ever used; extremely intuitive, fast and comprehensive. You’ll find critical information on staying healthy while cruising (including avoiding injuries from dangerous marine creatures – like sharks). Important conservation regulations, local custom requirements, repair services and supplies, accessing the Internet, weather, navigation aids and much more. With just two clicks, you can do a virtual visit to 220 anchorages in New Caledonia and 170 anchorages in Vanuatu, with 240 verified GPS routes in New Caledonia and 160 GPS routes in Vanuatu. The guides cover all of New Caledonia and Vanuatu and are updated at least 4 times a year. Every anchorage has a high definition, colour aerial image showing the anchorage area, surface or drone shots showing what it looks like on approach, what it looks like after you get there, plus above and below water (sometimes even spherical 360-degree images) of beaches, coral reefs, forests, waterfalls, and trails. You'll have everything you need to choose the places you and your crew will enjoy most, along with reliable sailing directions, exact GPS coordinates of the safest place to anchor, depths, bottom type, protection from wind and waves, hazards, VHF reception and times of the weather reports, mobile phone, Internet, Wi-Fi and TV reception, points of interest, treks and trails. Plus, important information on health hazards, social issues, where to get fuel, supplies or repairs, government and local restrictions, conservation laws, and more. You’ll also get the Rocket Travel Guides prepared for the tourism departments of New Caledonia and Vanuatu to train travel agents about the enormous range of tourism facilities and activities in both counties; accommodation, car rentals, shopping, tours, sights, beaches, all the things tourists need to know about visiting these holiday destinations. Rocket Guides have it all available in a couple of clicks– and you don’t need to be online.

https://www.do wnunderrally.co m/aabboating

www.downunderrally.com/aabboati ng

Part 3 of 3

Cruising New Zealand's Fiordland In parts one & two of this article (see July 2023 AHOY), Rob Latimer shared the story of his voyage from Australia to New Zealand`s south island and cruising Fiordland aboard Chimere. In this final instalment of the series, Rob & the crew of Chimere continue the adventure, which culminates in their arrival at Milford Sound and the accomplishment of a long-held dream. Another Day, Another Fiord! In leaving Beach Harbour, it was nice to be able to simply slip our mooring rather than go through the process of retrieving the anchor. Overnight, the rain had cleared, with low clouds and mist hanging low around the enclosing mountains as we made our way the short distance to the entrance.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

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Keeping Breaksea Island on our port side, we glided out into the Tasman Sea, setting a northerly course. We were hoping to be joined by the promised southerly breeze to help push us up the coast, but it was clear the elements had other ideas. In its place, we were left with a rather rolly, uncomfortable sea and an occasional breeze, mostly arriving as we passed by the opening to bays and Sounds, namely Dagg, Doubtful and Thompson Sounds, which funnelled the wind our way.

Our next anchorage would be Nancy Sound, 50 miles up the coast. Apparently named after a ship from times past, commanded by a certain whaler, Captain John Grono. The ship, no doubt, taking its name from the owner’s wife, sweetheart … or mother. Other place names, however, seemed to be inspired by body parts. There was Leg Arm, Toe Cove, Knee Bend, Leg Head and Heel Cove. But it was the entrance to Nancy Sound that had the most concerning name of all … “Anxiety Point”, named, I’m sure, by someone who had to enter this enclosed waterway with a nasty following sea and poor visibility.

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Mercifully, the weather was kind as we closed the coast, discovering that Anxiety Point was in fact just a big pile of rocks, seemingly blocking the Fiord’s opening. Once close in, another pile of rocks called Entrance Island came into view and if you’d come this far it was just a simple right, then left, past Sweep Point and you’re home!

We had intended to drop into iconic Doubtful Sound on our way north, but in the end, we were running out of time, choosing instead to make our next stop, after Nancy Sound, at the Alice Falls Anchorage, inside George Sound where we soaked up the passing parade of glorious scenery, cascading waterfalls, rugged mountains rising from the water’s edge, rocky mountain tops, deep valleys and dense forest to the sea.

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One frustration, which we attributed to the steepness of the mountains, was that it was virtually impossible to get sufficient satellite coverage to communicate and download weather forecasts. Time and time again, all I received were frustrating commands very much like the following…

07:01:45 Attempt 1 of 1: Opening connection: Connecting to Network Connection: Dialing Iridium GO!: Authenticating: Signal strength of 0% is insufficient to sustain connection: Disconnecting from device: ERROR: Dialup failed: Finished. The other ongoing frustration, of course, was the sandflies; have I mentioned them?!. As the collective number of bites and itchy swellings progressively increased amongst the five of us, we became ever-more vigilant in putting up flyscreens and rugging up when venturing out or going ashore. Kiwi-John seemed to have a form of home-ground-natural-immunity, whereas the rest of us suffered more. Not always in silence, it must be said, with the first aid kit being raided progressively for ever more effective remedies. Getting away early the next morning, we again worked our way up the coast. This time passing Charles and Caswell Sounds, along with Two Thumb and Looking Glass Bays. After a chilly, dewy start to the day, the early morning light was soon illuminating the higher peaks, working its way ever lower as the sun rose in the sky. Pretty soon, we were bathed in warmth, causing us to shed layers once more as the morning wore on. The Cruising Guide described George Sound as having “…lots of interesting features, very steep and spectacular, with its proximity to Milford Sound making it a popular stop-off point for tour boats”. Certainly, the sight of two cruise ships – Ruby Princess and Silver Muse – heading south, just a few miles further out to sea, put us on notice that we should expect to see more people and boats inside George Sound. But as it turned out, we had the place all to ourselves, much like Nancy Sound and many of the others as well.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

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Little did we know that within two weeks, the very same Ruby Princess we had spied on our chart plotter would be docking in Sydney, making headlines for all the wrong reasons. At the time, we were blithely unaware of most things outside our onboard “bubble”; least of all, a thing called COVID19. Crew member John taking advantage of the warm rays to catch up on some sleep.

Until this point, we had viewed the rugged mountains rising from the water as impressive. Now, with glimpses of even bigger, steeper, and more dramatic mountains further up the coast, we were forced to recalibrate our measures of awesomeness. Some of these “alpine glimpses” bore patches of ice and snow, which glistened in the sun, making them appear even higher.

It was around 12 noon that we entered George Sound and over the next two hours we worked our way up to the head of the inlet; the twenty-knot headwind slowing our progress to around 5 knots. By now, we’d become used to the Fiordland sailing routine … make a short hop along the coast, enter a narrow gap from the sea, cruise up a long passage inland, surrounded by hills and mountains on either side, finally arrive at a “basin” or abrupt dead-end, into which one or more rivers ran down the valleys, often terminating in a waterfall...and always culminating in a stunning anchorage.

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Well, George Sound had all of this. As a special bonus, the anchorage was immediately next to the waterfall, which itself was a very impressive, loud and thunderous affair, swollen by the recent rains. On approach, the Alice Falls seemed to completely fill the end of the Sound. It was only when you looked a bit closer and crept further in, that you discovered the Sound extended a further 50-100 metres to the left, and was encircled by trees reaching out over the water, placing it effectively next to the waterfall.

It was reassuring to read the Cruising Guide note … “In order to hold your boat steady from the water swirl caused by the falls during heavy rain, there are two stern lines and two bow lines available, as shown in the sketch. Be careful not to move too far back into the cove because it shallows rapidly. Allow for the 1.2-1.8 tidal range”

In the end, we dropped our anchor on approach, after which we ran out two stern lines and one bow line. This had the effect of holding us extremely securely. We didn’t bother with an anchor alarm, figuring that if Chimere escaped this spider’s web of lines, she deserved a reward.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

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Soon after turning off the engine, we had the dinghy over the side, being drawn to the waterfall, with thoughts of actually having a swim. By now, it was around 4:00 pm and the afternoon sun was already starting to climb the walls of the surrounding mountains. All the while, the sand flies continued their relentless attack as we used netting, spray and layers of clothing in defence. This presented a particular challenge in light of the decision to make our way over to the nearby waterfall for a swim. Swimming naturally involves baring a bit of skin to the elements, but this would all too readily be bitten by the bugs! In the end, this created a wonderful incentive, if one was needed, to get immersed in the frigid water as soon as possible; cold water is preferable to the risk of being bitten again. After the initial temperature shock, not to mention the saga of finding a suitable landing spot for the dinghy, plus a path over the rocks and through the bush in search of a safe spot to enter the stream, we had a wonderful time in the water. The sun’s rays on our side of the falls almost give a summer feel, if ever so briefly. Pretty soon, our part of the valley was in shadows, and it was time to make our way back to our snug – and fully netted – home on the water, with James taking charge of dinner. In this, he made good use of the “new” crayfish (rock lobster) given to us two days ago. With the dramatic scenery just getting better and better, it was with considerable excitement that we anticipated our arrival in Milford Sound the next day. The weather looked like remaining fine, and it was here we would be able to string a couple of nights together at anchor – in the one spot – and where we would have a full day to explore the region. For now, it was time to sleep snuggly. The thundering roar of water through a steep cataract and over a series of rapids just 100 metres off our bow becomes just another feature of this amazing wilderness.

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There’s Only One Milford Sound Soaking in the vibe of this place and after reading Cook’s journal, it is clear the great man would still recognise these waters should he happen to be alive today. Cook’s descriptive account from 1773 needs no editing …

-extract from the journal of Captain James Cook...

A prospect more rude or craggy is rarely to be met with; for inland appears nothing but

“The country is exceedingly

summits of mountains of a

mountainous, not only about

stupendous height, and

Dusky Bay, but through all the

consisting of rocks that are

southern part of this western

totally barren and naked,

coast of Tavai Poenammoo

except where they are covered

(South Island, New Zealand).

with snow. But the land bordering on the sea-coast, and all the islands, are thickly covered with wood, almost down to the water’s edge.”

Unlike Cook’s ship, life aboard Chimere was somewhat more leisurely. That said, we were still up at 6:00 and away by 7:00 the next morning, slipping our three lines and lifting the anchor in the pre-dawn darkness, being super careful not to snag anything on the prop. Been there, bro! Saying our good-byes to Alice Falls, it was then an hour or two of motoring to the entrance, all the while watching the sun’s rays slowly wake up the mountaintops above.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

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Once out at sea, it was a short sail up the coast, over flattening seas. Past Bligh and Sutherland Sounds to the entrance of Milford Sound and the towering mountains rising shear from the water’s edge. By noon we were rounding Saint Anne Point, past Anita Bay and into Milford Sound, for the 8mile journey to our anchorage for the night in Deepwater Basin. Over the years, I had been to Milford Sound a couple of times; as a bushwalker, as well as a tourist. But nothing quite compared to today’s encounter. Entering the Fiord under sail, aboard by own wee ship, was something else altogether. The sun, the breeze, the blue sky and of course, the spectacular scenery … around and above … the sheer cliffs, the glacier up on Mount Pembroke, Stirling and Bowen Falls and the allfamiliar vista looking back out of the Sound at Mitre Peak … it was perfect. It's little wonder Milford stands out as the most impressive of all the Sounds. Evidence of this was clear in the ten-or-more tour boats, of varying sizes, doing their afternoon run. First, up the left side of the entrance, then home again down the right. The attraction for the many visitors is obvious, especially on a day like this.

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At the point where it was clear we could sail no more, there was nothing left to do but round up into the wind, drop the main, roll up the jib and make our way past the red and green markers, down the short channel and into Deepwater Basin.

Well named, this enclosed parcel of water is 53 metres-deep, shallowing to around 20 metres at the edges, just a few metres from shore.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

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Into the Basin, at one end, flows the Cleddau River. At the other, the Arthur River. Both of which deposit significant amounts of debris, logs, trees, branches etc., after almost every storm. This was particularly the case over the past month, with the access road into the region only just reopening after several weeks of essential reconstruction. Maybe this is where the park bench came from that we saw floating by that day we left Stewart Island.

Shortly after dropping anchor in around 20 metres, our stern a short distance from fast-drying mudflats, we received a visit from yachties off a boat moored nearby. They were very helpful in pointing out the many hazards of anchoring in these parts, suggesting we attach ourselves to the mooring they had been occupying for the past week since they were about to head off. “Who owns the mooring?” I asked, not wanting to unknowingly create “ripples”. “A guy called Manny off the black fishing boat in the corner of the bay said it was ok.” … came the almost-clear answer. “Do you want a crayfish?” the man continued. At which point he handed us a very much alive critter – “re-gifted” from a present to them, from their font-of-local-knowledge, Manny. “That’s really great, thank you,” I said as they motored off to prepare for the sea. Sometime later, the folks of a second nearby yacht made the effort to come over as well. They even accepted an invitation to come aboard for a cup of tea and suggested we could use the mooring they had been using. They, too, were heading off in company with the first yacht. During our conversation, they confided that on arrival a few days earlier, they had snagged their anchor on a very big log, no doubt one of many, many logs lurking below. As it turned out, they had spent a day and a half retrieving their anchor. (With the help of local identity and fisherman “Manny”, as it turned out) Their unfortunate story essentially puts into words one of my biggest concerns so far. They also confirmed that Manny would be a good chap to meet if only to say hello and pick up any other information we might need – such as whom to speak with about getting water and fuel from the wharf.

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Soon after repositioning to the nearby mooring, John and I launched the large dingy and zoomed across to see the fisherman, Manny, himself; to introduce ourselves and have a chat. On arrival and after calling out the universal “AHOY” greeting, Manny appeared; his body barely visible amongst the stacks of cray pots. “Come aboard!” he yelled. Making our way into the warm, bordering on hot saloon, we met Manny’s wife, plus an older bloke who seemed to be a friend and “helper”. We talked about life at sea, the fishing industry, and that “yes”, it was OK to use the mooring vacated by the other yacht. As Manny explained… “And if anyone tells you to move, tell ‘em to rack !!! (he used another word instead of rack), and while you’re at it, tell ‘em Monkey said it was OK”. They were certainly a “colourful” trio, with a turn of phrase and vocabulary to match, aboard a very “distinctive and unique” fishing boat. After maybe 30 minutes or so, as we made our farewells, Manny asked … “Would you like a crayfish?” “That would be fantastic”, we replied. “How many onboard your boat?” inquired Manny. “There’s five of us”, replied John. To which Manny said … “Well, one bloody crayfish (again, bloody replaces the actual word used) won’t fill you. Here, take these”, as he pulled out seven from his hold. “Wow, that’s amazing, THANKS”, I said. Then John inquired, “Do you know any crayfish recipes?” As it turned out, asking Manny about cooking crayfish was a bit like asking Bubba, from Bubba Gump fame, about the Shrimp’n’ Business. What Manny didn’t know about Crays simply wasn’t worth knowing. What followed was a demonstration of how to tail and de-shell a cray – in a matter of seconds, plus a crayfish fritter recipe involving onions, egg, milk and a few other ingredients. So, guess what we had for dinner that night and a few nights thereafter? That’s right, crayfish fritters. Or, if you like crayfish hashbrowns … or burgers. Which may seem a bit sacrilegious to the lobster purists, but they WERE yummy. It’s also the sort of thing you end up doing after being given a total of 16 crayfish, by passers-by, over a period of just 10 days.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

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Journey Ends After a blissful sleep, it was a particularly lazy start to the new day aboard Chimere, with the morning sun highlighting different faces and angles of the mountaintops that framed the backdrop to our world, at least our world of the past 18 hours or so.

Whilst we usually topped up the water tanks using our onboard water-maker, where available, we always used a free hose where the opportunity presented itself. Plus, I thought it prudent to pick up a bit more diesel at the nearby fisherman’s wharf, particularly while the weather remained calm and there were few other boats about. On our way over to the dock, John and I spied the enormous outline of a cruise ship out in the Sound, and a short time later, I think I saw a second. It seemed they didn’t stick around. Their strategy is to provide their passengers with a “drive-by-look” rather than an “off-the-boat walk”. Still, there was a steady stream of light planes, helicopters, coaches, mini-buses, tour boats and even kayak flotillas (including onshore pre-training in the carpark) underway by 9:30 am when John and I checked out the wharf office. As the wharf guy explained, “Sure, you can fill up with water … just tie up alongside. And we’ve got diesel at $2 per litre. No Eftpos or electronic transactions though, unfortunately. Cash is preferred here”. Fortunately, I still had a bit of cash. Just enough to secure an extra 150 litres of diesel, just in case. We also took the opportunity to offload 14 days of accumulated rubbish in a dumpster nearby. The water tanks overflowing and the diesel reserves replenished, John and I put Chimere back on the mooring, while Linda, Matt and James went for a walk down to the waterfront.

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Part 3 of 3

Sadly, our amazing time together was drawing to a close. In just two days, Linda, Matt and James would be home in Australia. Slipping back, as it turned out, just hours before COVID quarantine and isolation regulations for overseas arrivals were imposed.

For John and I, it would be ten days before the big COVID “reset” impacted us. Our arrival in Wellington after sailing together up the West Coast coincided with New Zealand’s decision to essentially lock the place down completely, limiting each person’s travel to just a few kilometres radius of their home. Five weeks later, still confined to life in a marina and not allowed to walk much past the local supermarket, I made the decision to grab one of the last flights home to Melbourne, where I did my obligatory 14-day lock-up in a city hotel; at taxpayer's expense. Fortunately, a friend kept an eye on Chimere in my absence because it wasn’t for another 13 months before I was able to return and resume my adventure. Oh, and in closing, do you remember the “Trans-Tasman Bubble”? That much-anticipated opportunity for Kiwis and Aussies to once more travel back and forth … subject to each location remaining COVID-free. Well, in my innocence, after finally resuming the voyage, sailing from Wellington to the Bay of Islands in preparation for the homeward leg, only then did I discover that the “Travel Bubble” related to air travel, NOT travel on a boat. As you can imagine, with three crew having flown in to join me for the leg home, it was an anxious 7day wait to receive an exemption from the relevant health authorities, to enter the state of Victoria. Something I really did not expect to receive, given people with dying relatives and funerals to attend, had reportedly been knocked back. Whether my case fell under one or other of the two allowable categories of Hardship or Compassion, I never discovered, but one thing is for sure, it took less than 24 hours for me to clear New Zealand Customs after receiving the big tick to re-enter Victoria. But that’s another story that you can read when you check out the full Ships Log at … www.nz2020.travel.blog

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland About the Author Rob Latimer is a cruising sailor and co-founder of the Australian aid group Medical Sailing Ministries Inc. www.msm.org.au, plus the Vanuatu oral health funding-support group Tooth Buddies www.toothbuddies.com.au Since 2009, Rob, along with dozens of enthusiastic volunteers, has used his yacht, Chimere, to transport health teams around the remote islands of Vanuatu. More recently, he has fulfilled a life-long dream to sail around New Zealand. About the Boat After 16 years and a recent change in his circumstances, Rob has reluctantly put Chimere on the market. Well-equipped for remote voyaging, Chimere has plenty of adventures left in her yet, as you can discover HERE

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