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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
“The nose is very perfumed with notes of rose, pomegranate and dried herbs as well as red fruit while the palate is light-bodied with lemon-like acidity and a salty finish. Pure and poised with ultrafine tannins, this wine delivers fantastic quality relative to price.”
Grenache Cinsaut Mourvédre
Tim Atkin 90 points (2017) Wine (SA) 91 points (2018) Gilbert & Galliard Gold Medal (2018)
ROAN RANGER
“This horse is an absolute winner”
2018
V I N TA G E
Christian Eedes, 91 points Winemag SA
www.withington.co.za
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BU YER / PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTING COORDINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BU YER Dean Townsend REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles) OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)
CONTACT ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za. WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za. WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to taryn@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.
BOPLAAS IS CROWNED THE BEST SOUTH AFRICAN PRODUCER AT MICHELANGELO INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRITS AWARDS
FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa TWITTER: @WotMSA INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth
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South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.
Boplaas Family Vineyards is pleased to announce that they have won the Grand Prix Award for the top scoring dessert wine at The Michelangelo International Wine & Spirit Awards. On top of this, the brand also took home three platinum awards, a double gold award and four gold medals, in the wines, port and brandy categories. The Michelangelo International Wine & Spirit Awards is the biggest wine & spirits competition in Africa, and Boplaas is honored to be recognised for years of dedication to their craft.
PH: 044 2133 326
B O P L A A S FA M I LY V I N E YA R D S
@ B O PLAAS WI N ES
FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT BOPLAAS FAMILY VINEYARDS AND THEIR AWARD-WINNING WINES, VISIT
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22 CONTENTS 06 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 VAN LOVEREN’S RUN RHINO WINE RANGE 10 SA CONNOISSEUR’S TOP WINE LABEL PICKS 12 OUR DAILY BREAD: WHICH BREAD IS BEST? 14 THE BEST WAY TO OPEN A BOTTLE OF WINE 16 3 ASIAN-INSPIRED DISHES TO MAKE AT HOME 20 THIS MONTH’S WINNING WINES
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YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS MEET THE WINEMAKER: GUARDIAN PEAK’S DANIELLE LE ROUX CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY DAVID BIGGS’ TAKE ON CORONA COCKTAILS
ON THE COVER How Van Loveren is helping to save our beloved rhinos p.08
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Life Under Lockdown Discover betterfor-you bread choices on p.12
See what corona cocktails David Biggs has created on p.32
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What beats sipping a good wine? Sipping a good wine that does good too. On p.08, we take a closer look at Van Loveren’s latest range of Rhino Run Wines. On top of creating awareness around this pressing issue, for each wine purchased Van Loveren makes a donation to the Player Ntombela Foundation, which carries on the work of legendary rhino conservationist Dr Ian Player. From Africa to Asia, turn to p.16 for three delicious Asian-inspired dishes for you to whip up in celebration of the lifting of the ban on wine sales. Plus, we’ve paired all three recipes with a fine wine to complement the flavours of each dish. Shifting our attention from fortune cookies to sourdough loaves, we’re all for the recent bread baking trend that’s been filling up our social media feeds. While we love a buttered piece of ciabatta as much as the next, we don’t love the belly bloat that follows. Here, we share which bread is best when it comes to more ‘healthier’ and gut-friendly options. (p.12) While we normally focus on what’s inside the bottle, we can’t help but give praise to a couple of beautiful wine labels we’ve long admired. Turn to p.10 for twelve of our favourite wine label designs and the special story behind each. Still on the juice, we share how best to open a bottle of wine. On p.14 we unpack each step in the ritual, from removing the foil to the perfect pour. Finally, Dave Biggs shares his take on some creative and surprisingly delicious coronavirus cocktails, as lockdown had him reaching into the dark corners of his drinks cabinet. (p.32) Not forgetting, of course, information on all the latest and greatest in wine. Stay safe!
CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB
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Anura Vineyards is owned and run by Tymen, Jenny and Lance Bouma. Their passion is red wine, and with plantings of Mourvédre, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Malbec, among more classic, locally-grown varietals, they aim to produce handcrafted wines for individuals who are looking for something unique and distinctive. Anura’s aim is to produce wines that combine the robust fruit of the new world with the elegance and complexity of old-world winemaking styles. Anura is also home to Forest Hill Cheesery which produces a range of artisan white mold, soft and mature style cheeses. Established in 2000, Forest Hill began production of wonderful rich flavoured, creamy white mold cheeses, namely Camembert and Brie. Forest Hill cheeses are beautifully paired with Anura’s range of wines and are all available for purchase at the Wine Tasting Centre.
WWW.ANURA.CO.ZA Tel: 0218755360 info@anura.co.za @anuravineyards
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The Unstoppable Tinashe
After an impressive career in the South African hospitality industry, and working at some of our finest hotels and restaurants, TINASHE NYAMUDOKA is ready for a new chapter. After relocating to Jozi, Tinashe (who is also an accomplished master blender) is set to start his own wine brand, Kumusha Wines. Born and raised in Zimbabwe, Tinashe’s career in hospitality began as a waiter at the Roundhouse Restaurant in Cape Town. He then moved to Nobu, where he was quickly promoted to Sommelier, following this he was Head Sommelier at the Oyster Box and later worked at The Test Kitchen for five years. You also might recognise Tinashe as one of our very own Wineof-the Month Club panel members, where he tasted wines with us for four years. Cheers to you, Tinashe! We can’t wait to taste your wines. Visit www.kumushabrands.com
WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine
SPIER HELPS CREATE FOOD SECURITY On the eve of the lockdown, Spier prepared boxes of food for 450 families in the surrounding communities. These donations helped to temporarily keep hunger at bay. But Spier recognised that a more long-term solution was needed. In partnership with the Sustainability Institute, 13 members of the local community were recruited to speed up food production at Spier and to learn how to grow their own fresh produce at home. “If people learn how to grow their own food, they will never go hungry,” says Megan McCarthy, who oversees the SPIER FOOD GARDEN. Over the next three months, Megan will be providing hands-on training at demonstration plots on the Stellenbosch estate. In addition to learning gardening skills, the growers will also be given a wholesome cooked lunch every day, and seedlings to plant at home. Plus, the organic produce harvested at Spier will continue to be distributed regularly to hungry households within the community. Spier, we salute you! Keep up the wonderful work. 6
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LUKE’S LOCKDOWN HAMPERS Now open for orders via www.lukedaleroberts.com, Chef Luke Dale Roberts has launched the delivery of gourmet LDR LOCKDOWN FOOD HAMPERS for Cape Town and Johannesburg residents. It features three choices, with each hamper including a weekly basket of goods providing the focal point for multiple meals. Luke Dale Roberts will feature some of his favourite classics such as Duck and Pork Belly Country Paté, Beef Bourguignon and Juniper and Citrus Cured Salmon Gravadlax, along with various cheeses and sweet options. Apart from keeping his considerable staff complement employed, Chef Luke also prepares 40 meals for The Haven Night Shelter in Cape Town each night. The gourmet lockdown hampers start at R1800 and exclude delivery. To order the LDR Lockdown Food Hampers, visit www.lukedaleroberts.com.
MUSHROOM FORAGE TO GO? To mark the 10th anniversary of their famous wild mushroom forages, DELHEIM STELLENBOSCH WINERY now brings the forest to you. Traditionally, the hunt for fungi is a fully-booked annual event, however this year it’s been re-fashioned with the release of the WILD MUSHROOM EXPERIENCE-IN-A-BOX. Filled with produce that captures the occasion, the boxes will be available from the winery’s online shop while stocks last. Each box contains a Field Guide to Mushrooms & Other Fungi of South Africa, three bottles of Delheim wine, dried Porcini mushrooms, Parmesan Cheese, risotto rice and a recipe card to help perfect your at-home mushroom risotto. Each box costs R1200, visit www.delheim.com/shop-online to order.
Thinking Outside the Box
One positive that’s come out of lockdown is to see how wine farms are finding new ways to bring their offerings straight to your door. Two such treats are Stellenbosch Hills’ BILTONG & WINE and POPCORN & POLKADRAAI boxes. The first box costs R600 and includes 6 wines paired with either biltong or droëwors. And, for just R300, you can order the Popcorn & Polkadraai box complete with four easy-drinking wines matched with four gourmet popcorn flavours. Simply email-and-collect to enjoy these fun wine pairings right at home. Or why not send one to a wine loving pal for their birthday? Each box comes with tasting notes too. To order, email info@stellenbosch-hills.co.za.
Together with the Stellenbosch restaurant community, Bertus Basson is helping to feed the hungry
CHEFS UNITE FOR STELLENBOSCH
Some of the country’s most renowned chefs based in Stellenbosch have stepped up to support local communities during the COVID-19 pandemic. The chefs and their respective kitchen crews have set up a SOUP KITCHEN that now produces just over 20 000 portions per week. The project is an initiative of Tasting Stellenbosch (a collaboration of leading restaurateurs and wine producers) that has joined forces with aid response project Stellenbosch Unite. According to chef Bertus Basson, “After putting out a few calls, the restaurant community came together in a selfless and truly inspiring way to confront the social challenges people are facing. We will keep going for the next few months and recruit more chefs to increase capacity and feed even more people.” Dry goods and soup vegetable donations can be dropped at Eike Restaurant in Dorp Street, Stellenbosch, between 10am-5pm, Tuesday to Saturday. To make a monetary donation or to find out more, visit www.stellenboschunite.org SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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PROFILE | THE RHINO RUN
VAN LOVEREN'S latest wine range is dedicated to SAVING OUR BELOVED RHINOS
TO RUN WILD & FREE The main BENEFICIARY of the Rhino Run Wines is the PLAYER NTOMBELA FOUNDATION, founded by Dr Ian Player, who has DEDICATED his life to SAVING THE RHINO
A
decade ago South Africa’s successful conservation efforts brought both the black and white rhino species back from the brink of extinction. This was largely due to the legendary work of rhino conservationist, Dr Ian Player who dedicated his life and career since the 1960s to lead the efforts to save the rhino. Sadly, since 2008 there has been a significant increase in poaching, and South Africa has lost over 7000 rhinos. In the fight against poaching, and their continued dedication and contribution to nature conservation in South Africa, Van Loveren Family Vineyards have released the latest vintages of Rhino Run Wines. On top of helping to raise awareness, for every bottle of Rhino Run Wine sold, Van Loveren makes a donation to The Player Ntombela Foundation. “As a producer invested in the preservation of our natural heritage, both through responsible farming practices and initiatives wider afield, Van Loveren has long been involved with conservation and continues through Rhino Run,” says Van Loveren Wines CEO Phillip Retief.
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THE RHINO RUN | PROFILE
THE RHINO RUN WINE RANGE INCLUDES: The Rhino Run Chardonnay Created in honor of the beautiful white rhino, this is a slightly wooded, medium-bodied Chardonnay that displays aromas of mandarin and grapefruit that linger on the palate.
For every bottle sold, a donation is made to The Player Ntombela Foundation and other foundations that have all lost rhinos through poaching
The Rhino Run Ian Player A blend of Cab and Merlot, vinified with minimal intervention allowing each cultivar to express their individual characteristics. Creating a wine with almond, plum and mint on the nose with ripe berry, cassis and red currant on the palate. The Rhino Run Cabernet Sauvignon Rich, ripe berries, cassis and red currants on the nose that effortlessly follow onto the palate. Good oak maturation means that this red has a wonderfully soft and toasty finish.
The Rhino Run Pinotage A firm local favourite, this Pinotage has a complex nose of banana, cassis and strawberry followed by layers of fruit, vanilla and spice on the palate. The Last One Shiraz 2013 A limited release collector’s item, there has only been 1215 bottles of The Last One Shiraz produced. The significance of this number represents the total number of rhinos poached in 2014. The Van Loveren vineyards are situated in the Robertson Wine Valley and have been in the Retief family since 1937. Maker of wines of international repute including Christina Van Loveren and Four Cousins, Van Loveren is known as a producer of awardwinning wines that are consistently high in quality and great value. To purchase any of the Rhino Run Wines, visit www.wineofthemonth.co.za. All donations to this worthy cause can also be made through the Rhino Run website at www.rhinorunwine.co.za
Email: info@vanloveren.co.za Contact: +27(0)23 615 1505 W W W. R H I N O R U N W I N E .C O. Z A SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Swoon WORTHY
wine labels
We share the stories behind some favourite wine label designs
While we know you’re not meant to judge a wine by its label, we did. But, we also made sure that the wine inside these bottles is as good as the label design. Below are our top twelve wine label picks and the stories behind them.
THE GRAZING NGUNI
The origins of the WILDEBERG WANDERING BEESTE SYRAH label goes back to its original source vineyard in the Riebeeksrivier ward of Swartland where a small herd of Nguni grazed nearby, sometimes even amongst the vines. "As we were creating a wine with more backbone than flesh, the bony Nguni felt doubly relevant and the idea for the label was born," says Winemaker JD Rossouw.
QUEEN OF THE SOUTH
The SPIOENKOP WINES are named after the famous hill in Kwazulu-Natal that was the scene of one of the bloodiest defeats for the British army against the boers in 1900. “The clouds are a reflection of our weather in Elgin with high annual rainfall while the Long Tom cannon was the major player at the Battle of Spioenkop. The idea behind the label is to bring honour to people who had an impact on the history of the South. Queen Manthatisi was the legendary queen of the Batlokoa tribe—a warrior that was famous for her military leadership and fierce determination to protect her land during the 19th century,” says Winemaker Jane Ferreira-Eede.
THE COW STOPS HERE
“One day, as a truck laden with cattle rattled past our Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard, one of the passengers decided this looked far more appealing than a trip to the abattoir. She jumped. And, not only did she survive, but she thrived, and even produced several offspring,” says Saskia Lesch, Sales Manager of Overhex Wines. “Paying tribute to this noble Nguni cow was the inspiration behind the name and label of the SURVIVOR wine range. The design was to be as colourful and unique as the wine it represents, and illustrate how Survivor the Nguni embodies the free spirit of the Swartland.”
PAPER CUT-OUTS
The procession found on THE DRIFT MOVEABLE FEAST 2015 bottle was Bruce Jack’s idea. And, it had to be about family and friends. "His grandmother’s artist friend, Lady Margaret Tredgold, had left them some of her Victorian paper cut-outs and we decided to render it in that style, including the calligraphy of Bruce’s poetic text. You can’t resist turning the bottle in your hands," says Andrew van der Merwe, Designer & Calligrapher.
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Straight From the Heart
When designer Sumi Gous met with Quoin Rock owners Denis and Julia Gaiduk, she immediately recognised their authentic passion for design, architecture and art. “The brief for the QUOIN ROCK wine range was to design a minimalistic but strong label that interpreted the very essence of winemaking—as if cutting into the heart of the vine that is ultimately the proof of quality. With the MCC we decided to change the shape to resemble the bubbles and also give it its own identity,” says Sumi. Sumi also joined forces with Apholos metal labels to add distinct metal rings and muselets to the packaging.
MY FAMILY AND OTHER ANIMALS
“Our label design wasn’t a quick sketch sent off to the printers. Nope, quite the opposite” says, Nitida’s Sales Manager, Jacus Marais. “We spent months and months thinking of the best way to incorporate everything NITIDA stands for. We wanted to capture the essence of the estate, our wine’s unique character and to give our faraway friends a little piece of home. Our label illustrations were hand-drawn using inks made from our Nitida tree leaves and inspired by Protea Nitidus in our garden. They also feature some of the creatures who share the farm with us such as the Cape eagle owl, Cape clawless otter, the golden orb spider, yellow-billed duck, and the Cape cobra.”
SWOON WORTHY WINE LABELS | FEATURE
THE ART OF WINEMAKING
"Rascallion Wines’ IMPRESS ROUGE label was inspired by the complex artistry that goes into creating blends. Components are selected and tasted, and then blended together until the finished wine emerges. The Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage components flow into one another, creating a fine expression of the artistry of the winemaker’s craft," says Managing Director Ross Sleet.
THE MYSTERIES OF NATURE
LAMMERSHOEK’S MYSTERIES label is a reflection on the mysterious creatures and plants that can be found on Lammershoek wine farm in the Aprilskloof Valley in the Swartland. “The creatures that feature on our labels are all well respected and each have their own unique impact on our old vineyards––which contribute to the style and uniqueness of our wines. In essence, the labels depict how we are ‘living close to nature’,” says, Lammershoek’s Winemaker Jorrie Du Plessis.
Howdy Stranger
The Withington ROAN RANGER is a Rhône-style wine. However, like the word Champagne, the French restricted the use of place names to indicate style. This meant some surgery on the word was required, and so they created a phonetic solution. Owner Charles Withington says, “There’s always been a strong family association with horses, in fact, great cousin Fred Withington still holds the record of saddling first and second past the post in the 1908 Grand National. So anything horsey had a sentimental pull, which led us to the beautiful and fitting Roan Ranger label design.”
Formally Feathered Friends
Now covered with vineyards, Lucerne farm was originally a duck farm, run by Granny Kay Smuts. The wine’s name Lozärn is the Swiss-German pronunciation of the beautiful city Lucerne in Switzerland. A young Kay and her family fled to Lucerne when they escaped Germany on a troop train during WW1. When it came to Lozärn Carménère’s label design, “We wanted to pay homage to our dearly departed feathered friends by using a striking graphic image of a duck skeleton, creating an eye-catching, albeit slightly macabre look.”
AT EASE SOLDIERS
To ensure that all travellers could pass safely in an ever-expanding colony, the Dutch deployed their Piekeniers soldiers along the rocky Kloof range of the Piekenierskloof Pass. “In light of a new era for South Africa, the Piekeniers soldiers didn’t need to be guarded anymore, and so we decided to disarm their eight military poses, placing their efforts into more fruitful actions. So, we created eight different wine labels, including PIEKENIERSKLOOF GRENACHE 2016,, telling our story,” says, owners Potgieter and Oubaas van Zyl.
THE POWERFUL STEED
The label of WARLORD RED BLEND showcases Cavalli's brand icon and logo. The horse, etched in gold against a stark black background, celebrates the beauty and power of the equestrian form. The artwork was inspired by the bronze equestrian statue, Physical Energy, an iconic landmark in Cape Town, but this time it is without the rider, and therefore in its purest form.
To order any these wines go to WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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OUR DAILY BREAD Which bread is best for the gut, and overall health?
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hat’s better than a slice of toast covered with creamed avocado, and topped with a little salt and a crack of black pepper? A healthy, wholesome breakfast, isn’t it? Yes, we know, bread has received a bit of a bad rap lately, thanks to a certain Dr Noakes and also a worldwide swing away from complex carbs. But all breads aren’t created equal. Some types of bread are more nutritious than others (we’re shaming you, bagels and brioche) and, in fact, can be much more gentle on our guts. They can be made in different, healthier ways than the usual bleached store-bought white bread. They are what we should be buying or, better yet, baking ourselves. Generally speaking, when it comes to our health, wholegrains with just water, yeast, and salt are best. Fermented bread seems to reduce blood sugar spikes and negative abdominal symptoms too. So here are five of the healthiest types of bread, and what it is that makes them good for us. 1. SPROUTED WHOLEGRAIN The one that comes up tops, unfortunately, isn’t widely available. But if you make bread at home do give it a try. Sprouted bread is made from wholegrains that have started (you guessed it) to sprout. They sprout due 1 2
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to exposure to heat and moisture. This process makes more nutrients available and also releases antioxidants in the grain. Sprouting is also said to break down some of the starch and decrease the bread’s carb content, which means sprouted wholegrains don’t increase blood sugar as much as other grains.
And, being higher in fibre and protein, they are also more filling than refined bread. 2. SOURDOUGH Now here’s our favourite. Made through a fermentation process, sourdough bread relies on naturally occurring yeast and bacteria to rise. This fermentation process is beneficial because it helps reduce the number of phytates (antioxidant compounds) that bind to minerals and stop our bodies from absorbing them. Sourdough bread is also much easier to digest, which is great if you have gut issues or suffer from irritable bowel syndrome. The reason
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for this is thought to be the prebiotics and probiotics created during the fermentation process. Another bonus is that sourdough is thought to have a low glycaemic index because the bacteria can decrease the rate at which starch is digested. Which means you shouldn’t experience a huge spike in blood sugar after eating it. And lastly, you can make it with wholewheat flour too, which gives you more fibre, iron, and other nutrients. 3. 100% WHOLEWHEAT You had an idea this one would be on the list, didn’t you? Wholegrains basically mean you get the entire grain intact. So the germ, endosperm, and bran are all there for you. This means it’s not only high in fibre but also the bran and germ contain protein, fat, vitamins, minerals, and beneficial plant compounds. The endosperm is mostly the starch. Refined grains, by the way, remove the bran and germ. Other health benefits? A decreased risk of type 2 diabetes, heart disease, and certain cancers. Just make sure, though, your bread is labelled 100% wholegrain or wholewheat. 4. OAT BREAD Another one that is not so easily available, perhaps, but might be an idea
to find a good recipe for, is oat bread. It’s typically made from oats, wholewheat flour, yeast, water, and salt. Oats are very nutritious; they are high in fibre, magnesium, vitamin B1, iron, and zinc. A bonus about the fibre in oats is that it may help lower cholesterol levels, regulate blood sugar, and decrease high blood pressure. Those are some bonuses, don’t you think? But, again, you may find that some oat bread is made with only a small amount of oats and refined flour— so be sure to check the label.
becomes almost like a gel in your gut. This helps slow the digestion of carbs and reduces blood sugar spikes.
5. 100% RYE BREAD These days there’s a large amount of rye bread that is made from a combination of rye and wheat flour. But if it’s the health benefits you’re after, stick to bread made from 100% rye flour. It is considered more nutritious, leads to feeling fuller for longer, and has less of an impact on blood sugar. In fact, its ability to lower your body’s insulin response may be because of it’s high soluble fibre content. What is this exactly? It’s a non-digestible carbohydrate that dissolves in water and
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THE BEST WAY
TO OPEN A
Bole of Wine
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ou come home after a long day at the office (or home office these days), crack open a bottle of wine, pour yourself a glass and put your tired tuchis down on the couch. We get it, some days call for a quick fix, but what about turning the process of opening the bottle into a little bit of a ritual? This is sacred stuff after all. Below we unpack the steps to opening a bottle and how best to do it, from expertly slicing off the foil to the perfect pour. It’s the little details that make all the difference, don’t you think?
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It can be something of a ritual—so here’s how to get it right
1. CHOOSE THE RIGHT BOTTLE OPENER
2. CUTTING THE FOIL: TOP TO BOTTOM?
We like to keep things simple around here and stick to our old pal, the Waiter’s Friend. It’s easy to use and wonderfully efficient. While winged, electric, pumped gas, and flying corkscrews will certainly do the trick—in fact anything as long as it actually opens the bottle—we’re happy. We’re fans of the Waiter’s Friend (or wine key) because it comes with that nifty little penknife we can use to open the foil, which leads us to our next step…
Traditionally sommeliers will cut the foil at the bottom lip. This is because foils were previously made out of lead. Also, this method tends to limit any stray drips when pouring over crisp white tablecloths. However, foil cutters are designed to cut the top of the lip, so this is how best to do it. Plus, cutting the top lip is more visually appealing when you plan to display the bottle, which, let’s face it, means a Zoom call with friends nowadays.
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3. WHERE & HOW TO POKE THE CORK?
Try to poke the cork slightly off-centre. You want the radial diameter of the helically-shaped worm—the curly part of the wine opener—to be centred so that it’s less likely to tear the cork. It takes about seven turns to insert the worm into the sweet spot, although wine openers vary. Ideally, the corkscrew should be inserted into the cork about one turn less than all the way in. Now, pull gently and listen for that sublime ‘pop’. 4. POUR IT GOOD AND PROPER
To pour, you should hold the bottle in the middle, towards the lower half. Don’t hold the bottle by its neck or shoulders where the bottle begins tapering into the neck. Tilt the bottle opening down over your wine glass and pour the wine relatively slowly. Where in the glass? Aim for the centre or along the side, it doesn’t really matter. What does matter is that the flow is slow enough to avoid splashing any of the good stuff.
A CLASSIC FOOD PAIRING
5. FILL HER UP
So there you have it, the best way to open a bottle of wine. Don’t rush it, and enjoy the process. After all, anticipation is half the fun. Happy sipping!
Beef brisket and The High Road Classique Illustration by: Chloé Damstra
Most bottles of wine in South Africa contain just over 750ml. So a bottle can be portioned out into five equal servings of 150ml. Although, depending on the day you’ve had, and if there’s only two of you drinking, you might wish to top up the glass. If it’s a red you’re pouring leave space at the top to hold the aromas, so don’t fill it to the brim. Tempting as it may be.
WWW.THEHIGHROAD.CO.ZA Tel: 076 044 5020 wine@thehighroad.co.za @thehighroadwines @highroadwines
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RECIPES | ASIAN PAIRING
Chinese Chinese Noodles
& WONTONS WITH CHILLI SAUCE Recipe on pg.17 1 6 SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Recipes courtesy of Stockfood
WINE &
ASIAN PAIRING | RECIPES
W
hether you’re an avid home cook who enjoys making Asian-style dishes or you simply love getting Chinese takeout, you may be stumped when it comes to choosing a wine to go with this Friday night favourite. And, choosing the right wine to match the variety of Asian flavours can make it slightly tricky. Yup, you can find a mix of spicy, sweet, sour, zesty, salty, and umami flavours all in a single Chinese dish. Also, you may order five or six different dishes from your local takeout restaurant that you need to pair with one or
two bottles of wine. So, what’s the best way out of this pickle? A good rule of thumb is to opt for aromatic white wines with plenty of fresh acidity, as this tends to be a good all-purpose pairing option. To help you out, here are a few foolproof wines you can try that will match a variety of Asian dishes: MCC: Particularly if you’re eating dim sum or fried dishes, an MCC with a touch of sweetness will cut through the fat and lighten the sometimes heavy flavours. RIESLING: Riesling’s subtle sweetness,
CHINESE NOODLES AND WONTONS WITH CHILLI SAUCE
METHOD:
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS: For the wontons: ½ tsp salt 3 spring onions, finely sliced, divided 1cm piece fresh ginger, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1tsp Sichuan peppercorns 300g ground pork 2 large eggs, one whole, one beaten with 1 tbsp water 1 tbsp cornflour ¼ tsp ground white pepper 24 - 28 large wonton wrappers, thawed if frozen and kept under a tea towel For the chili sauce: 3 tbsp light soy sauce 1 tbsp white sugar, caster or granulated 1 tbsp black vinegar, see tips 80ml chilli oil, see tips 2 tsp red chilli flakes 2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns To serve: 300g thin egg noodles 4 baby bok choy TIPS: Black vinegar and chilli oil are both available from good Asian food markets or corner shops. In a pinch, substitute black vinegar with good-quality aged balsamic vinegar.
1. For the wontons: Stir together the salt, twothirds of the spring onions, ginger, garlic, and peppercorns with 60ml hot water in a small bowl. Let infuse for 15 min. 2. Strain the water into a mixing bowl and add the pork, the whole egg, cornflour, and white pepper. Thoroughly mix with your hands until evenly combined. 3. Working one by one, place about 1 small tsp of pork filling on the lower third of the wonton wrappers. Brush the edges with the beaten egg wash and then fold one corner over to meet the opposite side, forming a triangle. Fold the bottom edge over and then fold the sides inwards behind the filling, pinching them together to hold their shape. Repeat for the remaining wontons, arranging them on a plate; separate layers with a sheet of damp paper towel to prevent the wontons from drying out. 4. For the chilli sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar until the sugar dissolves. Whisk in the chilli oil, chilli flakes, and peppercorns. 5. When ready to cook the wontons, bring a large saucepan of water to a rapid simmer over a moderate heat. Working in two batches, add the wontons to water, stirring constantly to prevent sticking. Cook until they float, about 3 min. Remove to a plate lined with paper towel using a slotted spoon. Repeat for the remaining wontons, reserving the cooking water.
high acidic nature and lighter mouthfeel, make it a stand up partner to a variety of popular Chinese dishes. GRENACHE: If you’re after a red, choose a lighter wine with jammy flavours of ripe red berries. These pair wonderfully with tangy, meaty Chinese dishes. To be even more specific, we’ve matched the below recipes with the perfect wine pairing that will bring out and balance the unique flavours in the below Asian-inspired dishes. Enjoy!
6. To serve: Simmer the noodles in the reserved cooking water until tender, about 6-9 min. Remove to a colander with tongs. Add the bok choy to the water and cook until just tender, about 3 min. 7. Drain the bok choy and split them in half. Arrange them in serving bowls with the noodles and wontons on top. Spoon over the chilli sauce and sprinkle with the remaining spring onion.
PAIRS WITH: Protea Chenin Blanc 2020, R69 Why It Works: Chenin Blanc’s sweetness and high acidity makes it an ideal partner to traditional Asianstyle flavours. This varietal goes particularly well with a variety of chicken and pork dishes such as Pad Thai, Peking Duck and the above Pork Wonton recipe. Chenin Blancs are also known to pair wonderfully with veggies such as bok choy, cabbage, cauliflower and carrots that work to bring out the subtle notes of this wine too. Have fun and experiment by adding some of these veggies to your own wonton recipe.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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RECIPES | ASIAN PAIRING
Peking Duck
WITH CUCUMBER, PANCAKES & HOISIN SAUCE
PEKING DUCK SERVING SIZE WITH FRESH CUCUMBER, SPRING ONION, CORIANDER, PANCAKES AND HOISIN SAUCE Serves 4
INGREDIENTS:
METHOD:
For the duck: 2 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns 1 tsp white peppercorns 2 tsp Chinese five-spice powder 2 tbsp salt, divided 1 whole duck (1.35 kg), trimmed and cleaned 3 tbsp Shaoxing wine, Chinese cooking wine 7,5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed 4 spring onions, roughly chopped 2 tbsp sunflower or vegetable oil
1. Toast both peppercorns in a dry frying pan set over a moderate heat until fragrant. Tip into a spice grinder and add the five-spice powder and 1 tbsp salt, grinding to powder. 2. Place the duck on a wire rack or trivet sat over a baking tray and rub all over and inside with the spice mix. Loosely cover with greaseproof paper and chill in the fridge for 48 hours until dried out. 3. After chilling, let the duck stand at room temperature for 30 min. Rub all over with the Shaoxing wine and stuff the cavity with the ginger and spring onions. 4. Place the duck in a steaming basket or bowl. Cover and sit over a half-filled saucepan of simmering water, steaming for 2 hours; top up the water as needed if it starts to run dry. 5. Remove duck from the steaming basket and
To serve: 12 - 16 Chinese pancakes 1 small cucumber, cut into thin batons 8 spring onions, green tops only 1 handful coriander, leaves picked 120g | ½ cup hoisin sauce, or plum sauce
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
set it aside. Preheat oven to 240°C (220°C fan) or as high as it will go. 6. Place the duck back on a trivet sat inside a roasting dish. Pat it dry with paper towel and brush all over with the oil. Sprinkle the remaining 1 tbsp salt evenly over the skin. 7. Roast in the oven until the skin is goldenbrown and crisp, about 30-40 min. Remove from the oven and let it rest under aluminium foil for at least 30 min. 8. When ready to serve, remove the breasts and thinly slice. Shred the leg meat using two forks. 9. Warm the pancakes in a dry frying pan set over a medium heat, turning once, about 30 seconds per pancake. 10. Serve the duck and pancakes with the cucumber, spring onions, coriander, and hoisin sauce.
ASIAN PAIRING | RECIPES
PAIRS WITH: Piekenierskloof Grenache Noir 2018, R150 Why It Works: The Piekenierskloof Grenache Noir is full of juicy red berry aromas, with earthy, elegant notes of pepper cloves, cardamom pods and subtle smokiness on the palate. Making it a wonderful match to the delicate sweet fortune cookie flavours we know and love. Plus, this Grenache’s lively fine tannins and elegant complexity enhance the texture and sugary taste of these traditional Chinese cookies.
FORTUNE COOKIES Makes 10 cookies
INGREDIENTS: 1 egg white 35g | ¹/3 cup plain flour 50g | ½ cup icing sugar 25g almonds, finely ground
METHOD: 1. Heat the oven to 200°C (180°C in a fan oven) and line a baking tray with greaseproof paper. 2. Beat the egg white until fluffy and fold in the flour, sugar and almonds. 3. Place 1-2 tsp of batter on the baking tray and spread out into a thin circle (approx 8cm diameter).
4. Repeat with the rest of the mixture. Bake in the oven for around 5 min, until the edges are golden brown but the middle is still pale. 5. Remove from the tray immediately and place a fortune slip in the middle. 6. Fold the cookie over the slip, then bend back on itself in the middle, drawing the points together. 7. Leave to cool and set.
PAIRS WITH: Quoin Rock MCC 2013, R350 Why It Works: The fermented flavours in both MCCs and many Asian foods make them a match made in heaven. Another great reason? Asian foods often leave a bit of a greasy, spicy residue on our tongues, and an MCC will help to cleanse this. The acidity of an MCC will also help to cut through fatty textures and balance sweet flavours too. An MCC’s crispness and bubbles also works to complement the umami flavours found in popular Asian foods.
Fortune Cookies
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)
SA’S TOP WINE PICKS
Platinum Club • Stellekaya Orion Reserve 2012 • David Finlayson Camino Africana Cabernet Franc 2017 • Idiom SMV 2015 • Quoin Rock Red Blend 2015 • Bergsig Icarus 2015 • Stellenrust The Apprentice White Cinsault 2018 • Cederberg Five Generations Chenin Blanc 2017 Reserve Club • Jordan The Long Fuse Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 • The High Road Classique 2016 • Ridgeback Cabernet Franc 2016 • Fable Mountain Vineyards SB8 Syrah 2017 • Simonsig The Grapesmith The Mediterraneo 2017 • Koelenhof Stellenbosch 1679 Chenin Blanc 2017
Our panel’s TOP PICKS this month and a listing of the club selections
Jordan The Long Fuse Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Reserve Club Fully developed flavours and soft ripe tannins without compensating the tension and elegance captured from the various cabernet slopes. Here especially, the climate plays a significant role to allow great fruit expression and classic essences of cedar, brambles and toasted tobacco. PAIRING: Beef fillet, sirloin steak or veal cutlets. Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Chenin Blanc 2018 Wine-of-the-Month Club Oatmeal, macadamia nuts and creamy stone fruit on the nose. The palate echoes those flavours with its richness and breadth. Peach pip, nectarine and stone fruit are fresh and lively while the oak supports it in a well-defined
David Biggs
Margaret Fundira
Winnie Bowman
cradle. Again oatmeal and nutty flavours are apparent but not overwhelming. The wine is powerful yet refined and structured. Nothing is superfluous and it’s perfectly proportioned with a long tail of flavour that ends with a delightfully pithy citrus twist. PAIRING: Shellfish, spicy food, lean fish and mild, soft cheeses. Doolhof Lady in Red 2019 Best Value Club Crimson red wine with an intense perfumed mélange of red fruits, candy apple and bright oak undertones. On the palate, the fruit / oak balance is harmonious with soft, firm tannins, cassis and plum flavours producing a wine of excellent structure. The fruit lingers long on the palate. PAIRING: Zesty, fresh pasta dishes or your favourite pizza.
Colin Collard
Claude Felbert
PJ ‘Buks’ Nel
Christine Rudman
Wine-of-the-Month Club • Eagles’ Nest Little Eagle 2017 • Van Loveren Retief Reserve Cape Blend 2018 • Marklew Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 • Canto Pinotage 2018 • Bellevue Sauvignon Blanc 2019 • Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Chenin Blanc 2018 • Tulbagh CCM White 2019 • Thelema Mountain White 2016 • Ken Forrester Petit Natural Sweet 2019 • Merwida White Muscadel 2018 • Bonnievale Dawn 2018 Best Value Club • Doolhof Lady in Red 2019 • Flagstone Treaty Tree Red 2017 • MAN Bosstok Pinotage 2018 • Koelenbosch Shiraz 2018 • Van Loveren Retief Reserve Cape Blend 2018 • Guardian Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 • Allée Bleue Sauvignon Blanc 2019 • Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Chenin Blanc 2018 • Thelema Mountain White 2016 • African Pride Forager White 2019 • Spier Signature Sauvignon Blanc 2019 • Ken Forrester Petit Chardonnay 2019 • Bonnievale Dawn 2018 • De Wet Cellar Pettilant Fronté Perlé NV • Merwida White Muscadel 2018
Gregory Mutambe
To purchase these wines and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za W W W.W I N E O F T H E M O N T H . C O . Z A
Clive Torr
Irina von Holdt
According to English history, the Duke of Clarence was put to death in 1478 by being drowned in a “butt of Malmsey”. I’ve always wondered what Malmsey was. I assume it was a wine. Is it still made and if so where? Malmsey is one of the oldest grape varieties in the world and probably originated in Greece. It is one of the grapes traditionally used to make Madeira wine, a sweet fortified wine made in the solera system. Because the solera is a continuous process, Madeira does not usually have a vintage year on the label. One might say the Duke of Clarence came to a sticky end.
YOUR WINE FAQS
Are wine bottles the same standard 750ml size all over the world or do different countries adopt their own standards? Because so much wine is traded internationally, bottle sizes of most table wines are usually accepted as containing 750ml. Chianti (Italian wine) however is traditionally sold in onelitre or 500ml flasks and Champagne in 800ml bottles. (Remember Champagne bottles need to be made of thicker glass to withstand the pressure.) Traditionally wines from the Rhine are sold in slightly smaller (700ml) bottles. Airlines that serve wine with their in-flight meals usually provide miniature bottles, assuming each passenger will order and consume only one ‘glass’ of wine with their food.
WE ANSWER YOUR WINE RELATED QUESTIONS
I have been told that when serving wine I should fill glasses only to about the three-quarter level. Is this the socially correct way to serve wine? That depends on the occasion and the guests. If you’re hob mobbing with the rich and famous by all means pour them three-quarter glasses, probably implying that your butler will be around to keep up the level. If you’re entertaining regular friends, who cares? Fill their glasses and leave the bottle on the table. When you order a glass of wine in a bar you’re entitled to expect a full glass. After all, you’re paying for it. Wine should never be a source of embarrassment. Feel free to say, “Come on, pal. Top it up,” if you think your host is being less than generous. There’s far too much pompous tension surrounding wine. Relax. It must be fun. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINE | Panel Report
A BIG
Thumbs Up! Amid the turmoil of lockdowns and gloomy statistics, we bring news of two classic, ever-faithful categories of wine BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM
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Panel Report | WINE
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL SWEET WHITE WINE WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: De Wet White Muscadel 2016 ALSO LIKED: De Wet Special Late Harvest 2016, Simonsig Gewürtztraminer 2017, Slanghoek Noble Late Harvest 2016, Slanghoek Private Selection Special Late Harvest 2017 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Altydgedacht Muskarade 2016, Asara Carillon 2014, Benguela Cove Noble Late Harvest 2015, DuToitskloof Tunnel Series Sweet White NV, Gabrielskloof Broken Stem 2016, Leopard’s Leap Lookout Semi Sweet 2017, McGregor White Muscadel 2016, Môreson Fudge 2013, Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc Noble Late Harvest 2014, Orange River Cellars Nouveau 2018, Overhex Magaliesburg Sweet Wine NV, Stellenrust Kleine Rust Semi Sweet 2018, Villiera Jasmine 2017, Villiera Jasmine 2018, Waterford Heatherleigh NV
B
RINGING GOOD NEWS in the middle of the relentless march of the pandemic is indeed heartwarming. We tasted (before lockdown) two terrific categories, which prompted lots of lip smacking, and big smiles all round. Oh, and positive comments. Why the government banned wine is hard to understand as it comes with a built-in feel-good factor, just what was needed. But we are not in the alcohol business or the booze business; oh no, we are in the WINE business which is so much classier. After much to-ing and fro-ing, the government even realised that we are in the agricultural sector and allowed exports again. So now we’re even officially special and we—all wine lovers that is—can take a bow. But then we knew it all along. But back to those two categories that made us smile… I T ’S A L L I N T H E B LE ND Named for the Bordeaux region in south-western France, our Bordeauxstyle wines are well-oaked blends of the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc, with Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, and with at least two or more required
in the blend. The idea is to make good any deficiencies of a single variety or to ameliorate an unwanted character by blending. The resulting wine becoming more complex than all but the most perfect single varietal wine can be. “I am so interested to see Cab Franc as the main partner,” Winnie says. “I’ve often wondered why we don’t use it more.” Now we’ve mentioned this before, but Cab Franc has become mainstream having been re-evaluated and rated much more highly than originally. Valued for its attractive aromas, the softer and silkier palate, and its family resemblance to Cabernet Sauvignon, which it seems to enhance, it is being used more and more frequently. As a stand-alone variety, it has gathered many followers, too. Colin is particularly enthusiastic. “A big thumbs up for this category,” he says, “a lot of stunning wines, well balanced and with great intensity of flavour.” SOUTH
Even though they COULD AGE, they are READY NOW. That’s good winemaking AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINE | Panel Report
“They got the tannins right, and got the oak right, too,” says Christine. “I scored more than half of these highly. Lots of character—complex, harmonious, not too much tannin—just the right sort of character,” says Claude, looking really pleased. “Even though they could age, they are ready now. That’s good winemaking,” from an elated Christine. Buks has another idea. “I’d like to see the top wines in five years’ time,” he says. That’s a good reminder. In our fast-paced lives we seem to have forgotten that these classic reds really do benefit from cellaring for some years before opening. The difference in terms of subtler, nuanced aromas and flavours, not to even mention softer tannins, can be remarkable. “And they’re all real blends,” Winnie chimes in again. “Not just Cab/Merlot mixes.” Christine adds: “Some very creative blends using Malbec and Petit Verdot.” So, if you’re looking for something special to go with that rib eye on a crisp winter’s night, try a good BB (Bordeauxstyle Blend) and congratulate yourself on your good taste.
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WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL S OME L IKE IT SW EET We taste a batch of not only sweeties, but also some off dry and semi sweets. We notice that as the sugar levels rise so does the quality. This of course is not entirely due to the amount of sugar but also to the quality of the basic wine. Winemakers make the slightly sweet wines for a specific market; let’s call it the high volume, commercial market— someone unkind may call it the “less picky” market. Once the wine is sweeter it is intended for a more discerning market, a market that is prepared to pay more, and therefore demands more. Some of the world’s most expensive and most cherished wines are the sweetest— think eiswein (ice wine), Sauternes, Tokay and our Noble Late Harvests, which come in small bottles because of their concentration and rarity. Christine is quick off the mark. “The Chenins are boring,” she says. “You have to have aromatics.” Irina is quick to defend her beloved Chenins, “But those were high volume wines, Chrissie.” To smooth ruffled feathers, Clive changes tack with: “If you’re going to make a sweet, then make it sweet. Our white and red muscadels are the best.” Winnie adds: “Yes, the sweeter wines are much better. The show lovely balance and complexity, the rest are fun and good for curry.” “The category gets very interesting from the Special Late Harvest level upwards,” Irina goes
NON-BORDEAUX BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Arendskloof Shiraz Tannat 2016 ALSO LIKED: Glenelly Estate Reserve 2012, Neil Ellis Left Bank 2014, Piekenierskloof Red 2015, Raka Spliced 2015 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Cloverfield Shamrock Red NV , Hermauspietersfontein Die Martha 2013, Hermauspietersfontein Die Martha 2014, Marvellous Red 2014, Môreson Miss Molly In My Bed 2014, Môreson Pi-not-age 2015, Rainbow’s End Mystical Corner 2016, Rietvallei Shiraz Petit Verdot Viognier 2016, Simonsig Frans Malan 2015, Simonsig Frans Malan 2016, Simonsvlei Simonsrood NV, Stellenrust Kleine Rust Red 2016, Van Loveren Rietief Reserve Cape Blend 2016, Warwick Three Cape Ladies 2014, Waterkloof Circle of Life Red 2015
CHENIN BLANC WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Lyngrove Platinum Chenin Blanc 2017 ALSO LIKED: Catherine Marshall Amatra Chenin Blanc “Jono’s Wave” 2016, Cavalli Fillly Chenin Blanc 2017, Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2017, Spier Savanha Winemaker’s Selection Chenin Blanc 2017 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Black Pearl Chenin Blanc 2017, Boet And Brit Suikerbossie Ek Will Jou He 2017, Delheim Wild Ferment Chenin Blanc 2016, Landskroon Paul de Villiers Chenin Blanc 2017, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Chenin Blanc 2017, McGregor Chenin Blanc 2018, Strydom Daniele Chenin Blanc 2017, Spier Signature Chenin Blanc 2017, Schultz Pepper Street Chenin Blanc 2017, Tierhoek Chenin Blanc 2017, Van Loveren Fives Reserve Chenin Blanc 2017, Van Loveren No.5 Chenin Blanc 2018, Waterford Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc 2017, Waterford Library Collection Chenin Blanc 2017, Wilderkrans Estate Chenin Blanc 2017
As a WELCOME WINE, put a bottle into an ice bucket and SERVE WITH SNACKS when guests arrive on. “But these were less good, apart from the Rieslings.” This is an interesting point. Certain varieties, notably Chenin and Riesling, have higher acids and are therefore more suited to making sweeter wines because of the tension or balance created between sugar and acid—each urging the palate in opposing directions. It is this tension that creates excitement to a blend: that incredible highwire act of superb poise and balance. Noble Late Harvests with sugars above 200 grams per litre (g/L) may have acids as high as 10 g/L, a figure totally prohibitive in a dry wine. “We make sweet wines so beautifully,” says Winnie. “The sadness is that they are not
more popular.” Clive has the answer: “As a welcome wine, put a bottle into an ice bucket and serve with snacks when guests arrive.” “Great idea,” Irina adds. “Now here’s a thing. I like to bring out a well-chilled bottle of, say, white Muscadel at the end of a meal and offer it around. Everyone claims to not drink sweet wine of course. So I pour myself a small glassful and pass the bottle to my left anyway. And it’s a funny thing, by the end of the meal that bottle is always empty.” Could it be that sweet wines are simply not fashionable? In that case, home entertainers and their guests are missing some fabulous wines…
Panel Report | WINE
CABERNET SAUVIGNON WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Bon Courage Inkara Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ALSO LIKED: Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, MAN Family Wines Ou Kalant Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Simonsig Labyrinth Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Ashton Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Bon Courage Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Dombeya Fenix Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Dornier Equanimity Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Leopard’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Org de Rac Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, O’Connell’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Quoin Rock Fat Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Strydom Rex Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Under Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Upland Cabernet Sauvignon Sulphur Free 2009, Van Loveren Five Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Van Loveren Four Cousins Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Waterford Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Waverley Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
To purchase these wines and more, head to our website W W W.W I N E O F T H E M O N T H . C O . Z A
E S TAT E 2 0 1 6 Red Blend
Rust en Vrede is one of South Africa’s most established wine estates, with a reputation for premium, full-bodied red wines. Rust en Vrede’s Estate Blend has been the farm’s main focus for the past 30 years, expertly blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Over the years, Rust en Vrede’s Estate has received many awards, most notably being selected five times for Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines and being named Platter’s Wine Guide’s Red Blend of the Year. Rust en Vrede’s values of quality, consistency, and age-worthiness shine through in the Estate 2016, one of South Africa’s benchmark red blends.
WWW.R US T E NV R E D E .C O M
‘I find it interesting working with fruit from different areas’
MEET THE WINEMAKER We sit down with Guardian Peak’s winemaker, Danielle le Roux, and talk to the mother of two about life, wine and her love for Merlot
H
ow did you first get into wine? I come from a farming background. I am the fifth generation on a wheat and sheep farm in Caledon, and since I was a little girl, I was always following my dad around the farm, so it felt natural to study agriculture. Can you remember the first glass of good wine you had? It was only during my studies at the University of Stellenbosch that I really started to appreciate wine. Afternoons of winetasting around Stellenbosch happened regularly, and I remember returning to Hartenberg quite often. I just loved their Merlot, but the whole range was fantastic quality. What do you love most about winemaking? I love the fact that it is creative, and that each vintage is a clean slate. You can never follow the exact same recipe as the fruit changes with each season. I love the combination of food and wine, and I love the people of the wine world. They all have a passion for life, food, and wine! What sets Guardian Peak wines apart? At Guardian Peak we source fruit from different areas. I believe this adds to the complexity and appeal of our wines. It’s not the traditional norm, but it suits our style. Guardian Peak wines are also made with the ethos “live with wine”, so
the wines are interesting and nuanced, but not too powerful to intimidate consumers. This is a rare quality in the wine industry. The most interesting part of your job? I find it very interesting working with fruit from different areas and really getting a feel of the quality and diversity for a vintage by experiencing the building blocks. And the hardest? Apart from the midnight pump-overs, it is tough to keep the style consistent. I am also a mum of two—so keeping on top of your game at work and running the household and family takes very good organising! I set high standards for myself, so it’s difficult to match my dream wine if I’m critiquing myself. Any wines you have a soft spot for? I’m a sucker for Merlot—so many different styles from different areas – the red fruit and fresh herb styles from cooler areas, to the blackcurrant and dark chocolate styles suits riper regions. Merlot is complex and difficult to make but can really reward you if you focus your efforts in the vineyard and winemaking.
WWW.GUARDIANPEAK.COM 021 881 3899 • info@guardianpeak.com • Annandale Road, Stellenbosch 7600 @guardianpeakwines
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@guardianpeak
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CONNOISSEUR’S
CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY
1. Middelvlei Free Run Pinotage 2018 (Price R129.00) This uniquely South African variety rewards with complex flavours of raspberries, mulberries and elegant oak spices. The soft tannins are beautifully balanced by the fruit weight with creamy vanilla flavours that linger on the palate. Drink now. PAIRING: South African staples, bobotie, bunny chow and a braai, all beg for a glass of Pinotage.
2. David Finlayson Camino Africana Cabernet Franc 2017 (Price R289.00) Cabernet Franc planted on an old seabed in the Helderberg Basin. The soil reminded the winemaker of the Graves region in Bordeaux, allowing them to spot the potential to make a great wine from these vineyards that are threatened by urban encroachment. Drink in 10-15 years. PAIRING: Lamb cutlets and lentil and kidney bean curry.
3. Dornier Bushvine Chenin Blanc 2018 (Price R135.00) The nose shows intense stone fruit and white pear, with hints of melon and perfume. The palate is rich and dense, with concentrated flavours of pineapple and green melon. The palate is fresh yet full, with a long, intense finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Rich seafood dishes, light chicken dishes, salads and mild Thai curry dishes. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
4. Rickety Bridge Blanc de Blanc NV (Price R180.00) A fine, gentle mousse dances on the palate with flavours of green apple, fresh citrus, light caramel and brioche nuances. These delightful flavours combine seamlessly with classic richness and finely balanced acidity. Drink now or in 8 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with salmon, prawns, sushi, oysters, crayfish and steamed fish.
7. Anthonij Rupert Optima 2015 (Price R200.00) Delightful interplay of blackcurrant, cassis, violet perfume and an earthy richness. The wine feels silky, supple and smooth when it first hits the palate. Flavours of dark berry fruit, Christmas pudding, cigar box and spice then make their presence felt. Beautifully poised and balanced. Drink now. PAIRING: Enjoy with braised beef short rib.
10. Meerlust Merlot 2016 (Price R329.00) Intense dark brambly fruit on the nose, mulberry, liquorice and damson plum with hints of dark chocolate and spice, tempered by a stony minerality. The palate has ripe, pure Merlot fruit with refreshing acidity, structured yet silky tannins and pronounced length and minerality. Drink now or in 12 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with red meats, game and strong cheeses.
5. Stellekaya Orion Reserve 2012 (Price R625.00) The bold entry on the palate is followed with fruit and tannin. A gripping but lingering finish. With an addition of Malbec to this premier blend for the 1st time with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc has added an extra smoothness. Drink in 6 to 10 years. PAIRING: Slow-cooked oxtail stew with herbs or lamb shank.
8. Meerlust Rubicon 2016 (Price R449.00) Wonderful exotic aromas of plum, sandalwood and perfume, still with a touch of creamy vanilla. The palate is medium bodied with a forward dark fruit flavour of cassis and mulberry followed by a lithe tannic structure fleshed out with juicy fruit. Drink now or in 15–30 years. PAIRING: Venison, game, pot roast and noble cheese.
11. Meerlust Pinot Noir 2018 (Price R319.00) Floral perfume on the nose with dark berry fruit, musk, wild mushrooms, hints of iron, savoury richness and spice. The palate has fruit flavours of red cherry and musk with fresh acidity. Very fine lacy, almost powdery tannin on the finish. Drink now or in 2023. PAIRING: White and red meats, duck, parma ham, grilled line fish and tuna.
6. Stellekaya Merlot 2018 (Price R146.00) Deep crimson in colour. This wine showcases attractive dark berry fruit with savoury and earthy notes. Elegant with juicy soft tannins and good acidity. Drink in 8-10 Years. PAIRING: This wine pairs well with beef carpaccio, drizzled with homemade mayonnaise, topped with rocket and Parmesan shavings.
9. Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Price R359.00) The nose of the wine shows pronounced plum and classic cedarwood-cigar box notes with lifted dark fruit aromas. A characteristic hallmark aroma of fennel and liquorice. The palate of the wine is full bodied but with richness of fruit and supple tannic. Drink now or in 4-15 years. PAIRING: Roast meat and game.
12. Allée Bleue Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R99.99) Sweet tropical fruits welcome you on the nose, this is followed by intense passion fruit aromas well supported by hints of green pepper and typical herbaceousness. The palate is fresh and lively with loads of summer flavours and a clean, crisp finish. Drink within 2 years. PAIRING: Light vegetarian pasta with fresh herbs or scallops.
‘Floral perfume on the nose with dark berry fruit, musk, wild mushrooms, hints of iron, savoury richness and spice’ 2 8
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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
13. Paul Cluver Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R118.00) The colour is clear and bright. The nose is fresh and clean with characteristics of passion fruit and grapefruit. The flavours follow through onto the palate. Drink now. PAIRING: A refreshing summertime wine, it pairs well with salads and lighter meats. Richer seafood and cheese platters make it work through autumn and winter.
16. Joseph Barry VSOP Brandy (Price R559.00) Tropical aromas of pineapple, passion fruit and banana that are perfectly complemented by guava and fig flavours on the palate. A well-rounded fruity finish follows with a soft mouthfeel and hints of mellow wood. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Venison biltong or lamb stew with dried apricots.
19. Eagles’ Nest Shiraz 2016 (Price R309.00) Perfume and floral aromas combine with red cherry and spice on the nose. A savoury, spicy palate with aromas of star anise and cloves. These flavours are complemented by pure, clean red fruit flavours. Soft, well integrated tannins coat the palate, leading to a distinct fresh finish. Drink now or in 20 years. PAIRING: Lamb, venison and game birds.
14. Waterford Rose-Mary Rosé 2019 (Price R109.00) The aroma is minerally driven with delicate raspberry fruit undertones. The natural acidity from the different Mediterranean varietals adds a lovely soft texture to the wine and provides for a crisp and delicate finish. Drink now. PAIRING: This rosé is to be enjoyed with pork, rich fish, summer salads and poultry.
17. Eagles’ Nest The Little Eagle Red 2017 (Price R149.00) Beautiful savoury, spicy aromas, which deliciously combine with dark fruit flavours. On the palate, the spicy characteristics are further complemented by earthy notes, leading to a structured palate with fine grained, delicate tannins. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Hearty winter meals such as beef goulash or oxtail.
20. Eagles’ Nest Merlot 2016 (Price R199.99) Raspberries and ripe red fruit on the nose, with aromas of darker fruit, plums and dried dates that follow. Intense red berry fruit flavours with toasty cigar notes on the palate. The tannins are delicate and fine, leading to fantastic intensity and length on the finish. Drink now or in 12 years. PAIRING: Meats or slow-roasted dishes such as lamb.
15. Ladismith 8 Year Old Brandy (Price R679.00) Dried fruit, apricot and citrus on the nose. In the mouth, a symphony of tropical fruit abounds with full flavoured banana and litchi followed by more subtle floral notes and a hint of red berry. Well balanced, with a lovely lingering dried fruit finish. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Pickled fish, lemon butter chicken and banana bread.
18. Eagles’ Nest Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R129.99) The nose initially shows opulent tropical fruit aromas, including flavours of pineapple and gooseberries. A deliciously fresh, zest core. As the wine evolves, it develops green apple and kiwi aromas, with a intriguing floral tones. Balanced by a beautiful fresh acidity. Drink now or in 4 years. PAIRING: Sushi, grilled fish and shellfish.
21. Koelenbosch Shiraz 2018 (Price R103.00) This wine has a deep red colour with complex aromas of plums and white pepper. On the palate this wine has a smooth, balanced finish of ripe fruit and dark chocolate, enhanced by a full tannin structure. Drink now. PAIRING: Serve with chicken pie, oxtail and ostrich meat.
‘Rich tropical flavours of pineapple, granadilla and litchi’ SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
22. Bellevue Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R109.00) Shows rich tropical flavours of pineapple, granadilla and litchi. This is followed by green apple and a lingering freshness on the palate. Drink now or in 2 years. PAIRING: To be enjoyed on its own, or paired with seafood or poultry or a cheese & charcutterie platter.
23. Canto Pinotage 2018 (Price R146.00) This wine has notes of red berries, mocha and some spicy flavours on the nose. The flavours carry through on the palate ending with hints of roasted coffee. With a good structure, the wine is medium/full bodied with juicy fruits and a wonderful texture, fine grained tannins and a silky finish. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Mini chocolate tart with orange cream and candied zest.
24. Paul Cluver Chardonnay 2017 (Price R284.00) The colour is clear and bright. The nose is fresh and clean with characteristics of passion fruit and grapefruit. The flavours follow through onto the palate. Ready to drink now, this wine will benefit from further cellaring of 10 to 12+ years from vintage.
PAIRING: Pairs especially well with rich meats, slow-roasted dishes and lamb.
Did you know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za
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FROM OUR HANDS TO YOUR HEART
STELLEKAYA’S 2015 CABERNET SAUVIGNON SHINES BRIGHT
Stellekaya’s latest muse is the bright red star found in the centre of the Scorpio constellation, named Antares. Drawing inspiration from Antares, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon shows earthy and minty notes with enticing flavours of dark fruit, tobacco and chocolate. The palate is both inviting and balanced with a backbone of acidity and an integrated tannin structure.
WWW.STELLEKAYA.CO.ZA
Tel: 021 883 3873 • info@stellekaya.co.za
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@stellekayawines
@stellekayawineestate
2020/07/14 3:09 PM
CORONA COCKTAILS
T
hey say when the going gets tough the tough get going—or inventive, as the case may be. I once read about the crew of a research ship stranded in the Antarctic Ice for several months. During their unplanned “lockdown” they apparently devised a way of distilling an alcoholic drink from Kiwi shoe polish. I confess my first reaction to the story was to wonder why on earth an Antarctic research vessel should be carrying enough Kiwi shoe polish to distil into alcohol. I wouldn’t have thought snowshoes needed polishing. I guess they enjoyed it met eisch. However, whether the story is true or not, it does seem to suggest that, no matter how dire the circumstances may be, the human mind will always find a way to make booze. Maybe alcohol is a basic human necessity, like oxygen and love? During the recent Level 4 COVID-19 lockdown many of us found ourselves with dwindling wine supplies and closed bottle stores. Once the Chenins, Pinotages and Shirazes came to an end we began reaching into the dark corners of our drinks cupboards to see what lurked there. First, the port and sherry went—Fino first, then Medium Cream. Hearty Ruby port was the next to go, then Special Late Vintage and finally the last precious amber drops of tawny port. Like most enthusiastic oenophiles, I like to keep
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my options open and I’m not averse to an occasional brandy and Coke, which is almost the national drink of this country. But I confess with a pang of regret as I sloshed a generous tot of Van Ryn’s 20-year-old Collection Reserve Single Potstill Brandy into my cola. Not a bad drink, although you might gag at the price! Now what? Some curious concoctions cowered in the corners: Pernod, Kahlúa, Sambuca Gold and a tiny bottle of khaki coloured “Elixir Vegetal Digestif ” from France, with a robust 71% alcohol content. It was given to me by a French visitor more than a decade ago. I had never plucked up the courage to try it. Seventy-one percent is a daunting number. The research began. I can report that an acceptable cocktail can be made from equal quantities of litchi juice and Pernod (maybe more fruit juice than Pernod if you plan to have more than one). The liquorice hint adds a warming dimension to the fruit juice. Sambuca Gold blends quite well with a dash of Rose’s Lime Juice Cordial and a little soda water, but is improved by a few drops of Angostura bitters. The little flakes of gold give the cocktail a festive character at a time when festivity is at a very low level globally. I’m not sure about the Elixir Vegetal. It has the aroma of new Tupperware and burns the tongue like fire. A few drops of the stuff would probably get the braai fire
crackling nicely. I suspect it could be an effective Coronavirus antidote. At that alcohol level it would certainly be an efficient hand-sanitiser. Thank goodness for Level 3! I welcomed it with open arms. I was beginning to suffer from RCS (rusty corkscrew syndrome) a rare affliction usually experienced only by teetotallers. My wine stocks are back at an acceptable level now, and I’m confidently expecting a complete recovery.
Illustration by: Chloé Damstra
As did most of us, lockdown had Dave Biggs reaching into the back of his drinks cabinet
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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2020/07/14 3:44 PM
OPTIMA
The Pinnacle of Quality
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2020/07/15 1:31 PM