VOL 283
GIFDTE GUI
A SUMMER FEAST
6 Recipes To Try
CLASSIC WINE & BRAAI PAIRINGS
THE WORLD’S GREATEST
Flagstone's VEGAN WINE RANGE
s l E e i n ErWINERY
WINE HEISTS
Five reasons to visit
Cover_Ernie Els-Final.indd 1
TOP 10 WINE PODCASTS
2020/11/19 11:17
2017
T20.11
2017
Wi n e M a d e A r t Family values and a single-minded vision to produce timeless, world-class wines is the bedrock of TOKARA, the prestigious Stellenbosch wine estate that is situated against the southern slopes of the majestic Simonsberg mountain. From the very beginning, TOKARA aimed for an international style with a distinct South African identity – an ambition to create something that would be recognised as timeless. While family remains at the core, the success of this incredible undertaking requires the hands of many and their mantra has always been one of no shortcuts, no compromise.
www.tokara.com
T: +27 (0) 21 808 5900
E: wine@tokara.com
Not for sale to persons under the age of 18. Enjoy responsibly.
Tokara FPAD.indd 1
2020/11/19 11:24
28 5
10 34
26
24 CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON? EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE: WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 VISIT THE NEWLY RENOVATED ERNIE ELS ESTATE 10 FLAGSTONE’S VEGAN WINE RANGE 12 VERTICAL VS HORIZONTAL WINE TASTINGS 14 THE WORLD’S GREATEST WINE HEISTS 17 TIPS TO START A HOME WINE COLLECTION 19 FUN SUMMER COCKTAILS
24 26 28 30 32 34 43 44 51 56
YOUR GIFT GUIDE FOR WINOS CLASSIC BRAAI AND WINE PAIRINGS A TRIP TO DORNIER WINES TUNE IN: BEST WINE PODCASTS ANTHONIJ RUPERT’S HEAD WINEMAKER: DAWIE BOTHA SIX SUMMER LOVIN’ RECIPES YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE: A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY DAVID BIGGS ON A FAMILY ATTEMPT AT WINEMAKING
ON THE COVER Inside a Newly Renovated Estate: 5 Reasons to Visit The Ernie Els Winery p.8 SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Contents.indd 1
1
2020/11/19 19:20
The SPIRITS of DARLING
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard EDITOR Kari Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke FREELANCE DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BU YER / PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTING COORDINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BU YER Dean Townsend REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles) OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)
CONTACT ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za. WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za. WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to taryn@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style. FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa TWITTER: @WotMSA INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth
Printed by
A division of Novus Holdings
W
hat better way to experience the mystique of a quirky little town called Darling, than to enjoy the Spirits of Darling?
DARLINGTON DRY GIN - Perfectly suited on its own or paired with the addition of fruits, herbs and edible flowers. VOORKAMER CAPE BRANDY – Internationally acclaimed. Best sipped while admiring a South African sunset.
South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.
Pg02 Ed Board.indd 2
WWW.DARLINGWINE.CO.ZA
2020/11/19 15:47
Five reasons to visit Ernie Els Winery, p.8
Check out our Gift Guide on p.24
MEET OUR NEW SUMMER ISSUE Wine events p.5
We’ve changed a little. Instead of a magazine almost every other month we’ve switched to four issues to come out on a seasonal basis. This means upping the number of pages per issue, as you’ll find here, and putting in more wine and food content. Just what you’ve asked for. To kick off the summer issue, we go outside and gather around that beloved braai. Gearing up for those scorcher days, read about the ultimate Wine and Braai Pairings. From cheesy braai broodjies to buttered-up mielies, we’ve got all the wines to match on p.26 Swapping the braai tongs for a couple of whisks, next we’re in the kitchen creating a Summer Feast. A fresh one. On p.34 there are light green salads, fragrant curries and, for good measure, a gluten-free vegan muffin recipe. Still on the vegan train, (hey, we kinda like it here) on p.10 read all about Flagstone’s latest range of delicious vegan and planet-friendly wines. From animal-lovers to sneaky wine thieves, Dave Biggs uncovers the World’s Greatest Wine Heists. Turn to p.14 to see how steal-worthy wines can turn into highly coveted possessions. Luckily, you won’t be tempted to swipe any bottles when you have your own wine collection right at home, no? On p.17 we share a few tips on how to build and organize a great athome wine stash. Moving onto a slightly bigger cellar, the folks at Ernie Els have made some serious renovations to their beautiful Stellenbosch estate. On p.8 we share five reasons to pop in this summer. Finally, with a festive whiff in the air, we’ve included a Gift Guide to take care of the presents you’ll be giving your wine-loving friends, as well as some fun Summer Cocktail Recipes to ring in the New Year. Oh, and of course we haven’t forgotten in include the valuable buzz on all the latest and greatest in wine. All the best for the festive season and see you in 2021!
Braai and wine pairings p.26 CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB
Ed's Letter.indd 3
2020/11/20 10:26
CHANGING
the
Rascallion Wines launch TWO NEW COLLECTIONS
L
aunched in 2018, Rascallion Wines is a négociant based in Stellenbosch. Rascallion embraces the serious side of creating daring wine brands by looking for emerging wine styles, engaging winemakers and dynamic visual expression. Rascallion’s aim is to change the conversation, and won’t bombard you with history, terroir or complicated jargon. Instead, they’re here to provide interesting, easy-drinking wines for you to enjoy. Ross Sleet (aka The Rascal), Managing Director and Co-owner of Rascallion Wines recently announced the launch of two brand new collections. When asked about the new wines, Ross says, “I use cultural references as the inspiration for Rascallion’s wine ranges, giving each range a distinctive personality and persona.” Rascallion’s two new collections include: WITH LOVE FROM THE CAPE COLLECTION Quite simply a love letter from the Cape Winelands, this collection celebrates the Cape’s rich array of people, vineyards, mountains and, of course, the oceans that wash the shores of the most beautiful place in the world. A portion of every bottle sold of the With Love from the Cape Collection is donated to Dignity Dreams, an NGO that provides comfort and menstrual health education to young women and girls from disadvantaged communities in South Africa and Africa.
THE VINYL COLLECTION The Vinyl Collection evokes the nostalgia of playing music on vinyl records––which somehow has a richer and more resonant sound than digital music. Listening to his parent’s records growing up, Ross gained an appreciation of the joy that music brings. In light of this, the objective is to have wines that resonate. This is achieved by creating interesting and unusual blends from the Piekrnierskloof region of the Cape Winelands.
To find out more about Rascallion Wines, visit www.rascallionwines.co.za
Rascallion FP Advertorial.indd 4
2020/11/19 13:16
CONSTANTIA FRESH, BUITENVERWACHTING ESTATE, 21 FEBRUARY Over the past 10 years, CONSTANTIA FRESH has become one of the most-loved outdoor wine events in South Africa. Enjoy wine and food in one of the country’s oldest winemaking regions with participants from other areas too. Among other highlights of the festival will be top local chefs preparing food at the event, craft beer, and, of course, live music. Tickets are R650pp. www.constantiafresh.com
WHAT’S ON Festivals and Events Around SA
CONSTELLATIONS, FROM 26 NOVEMBER SPIER’S latest event, Constellations, was conceptualised by acclaimed theatre director and playwright Brett Bailey. The event takes several small groups on an outdoor trail through the farm after dark. The groups rotate amongst a sequence of three campfires, gathering for about 35 minutes at each. Every campfire is presided over by its own unique Guardian – an artist, poet, musician, performer or storyteller– who will host each campfire experience. Tickets are R800pp via webtickets. www.spier.co.za
events.indd 5
C E L E B R AT I N G T H E L O V E O F A R T, 2 5 J A N UA RY31 DECEMBER To mark the 15th year of LA MOTTE’S Rupert ownership, owner Hanneli Rupert-Koegelenberg invites art-lovers to an exhibition of her and her family’s art collection. “This special exhibition features works with personal meaning and remembrance that I would like to share with guests to La Motte,” says Hanneli Rupert-Koegelenberg. Celebrating the Love of Art features works by Irma Stern, Maggie Laubser, Jean Welz and Cecil Higgs and takes place at the gallery at La Motte in Franschhoek. www.la-motte.co.za
Irma Stern (1894-1966). Zanzibar Woman. 1949. Oil on canvas.
THE CAP CLASSIQUE GARDEN PARTY, 5 & 6 DECEMBER While folks might be disappointed the Franschhoek Cap Classique & Champagne Festival has been postponed to 2021, here’s a bubbly event that will speak straight to the MCC lovers of the Western Cape. THE CAP CLASSIQUE GARDEN PARTY will take place on the rolling lawns of the beautiful Plaisir de Merle Wine Estate in Paarl. Enjoy bottomless bubbles, oysters, ice-cream, live music and more. Tickets are R1250pp from www.webtickets.co.za
2020/11/20 13:52
Bonnievale’s De-Alcoholised Sauv
LET THEM BE WILD AND FREE
Create unforgettable memories and make the Steenberg Hotel & Spa your summer family holiday destination. And with their current special rates for locals—including free accommodation for children under 12—how could you not? With local tourism on the rise, this 5-star boutique hotel, situated on a farm in the heart of the Constantia Wine Valley, is the ideal base for exploring the Cape Peninsula. Social distancing is a breeze on the 300-hectare farm with lush vines and gardens in full bloom. Bikes and trikes are on hand, allowing the whole family to take in the outstretched vistas. To make the little guests feel extra welcome, there is plenty for them to enjoy, including lawn games, pool action, kiddies’ menus and, for the ultimate spoil, mini-spa treatments. www.steenbergfarm.com.
Introducing a Sauvignon Blanc called NEAT that bursts with flavour and contains less than 0,5% alcohol. The new de-alcoholised wine is great for anyone watching their intake, whether at a business lunch or as a designated driver. Less alcohol also equals fewer calories, so Bonnievale NEAT is soft on the waistline too. Soon to be with retailers and restaurants around the country or go to www.bonnievalewines.co.za for delivery options.
WINE & DINE THE GÅTES ARE OPEN
Quoin Rock’s fine dining experience at Gåte has reopened - and with a new concept to boot, thanks to new culinary Head Chef, Jack Coetzee. This new chapter for the restaurant will focus not only on using local ingredients from the area but ingredients that are found within the Quoin Rock wine estate itself. The aim is to create dishes that embrace the unique flavours of their surroundings. www.quoinrock.co.za.
6
grapevine.indd 6
What’s New in Food and Wine
New from Damascene
The Second Edition of the Damascene Portfolio: Cape winemaker Jean Smit and David Curl, owner of Moya Meaker in Elgin, home of estate-grown Pinot Noir, have partnered to launch the second edition of the DAMASCENE PORTFOLIO of wine. The wines come from dozens of sites throughout the Western Cape winelands and the latest portfolio includes: Syrah 2019, Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Cabernet Franc 2019, Franschhoek Semillon 2019 and Moya Meaker Pinot Noir 2019.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
2020/11/20 10:32
What’s New | WINE & DINE
2020 DETOX, ANYONE? If there is anything we all need right now, it’s a trip to the spa. A simple 2020 detox would do us wonders. If you’re in the Breedekloof Winelands area, we have a recommendation for just that. BOSJES ESTATE has opened a new spa, ‘Die Stalle’ (The Stables) on the estate as part of their move towards creating a unique lifestyle destination. The spa menu offers a diverse selection of treatments and half-and full-day spa packages. To see the spa menu or book a treatment, go to www.bosjes.co.za.
Who Spiked the Sparkling Water?
FROST SPARKLES is a ready-to-drink vodka-based drink blended with purified sparkling water and infused with natural flavours, sweetened with fructose, and based on the very popular seltzers overseas. Available in two flavours–– Mixed Berry, and Pineapple & Coconut–– this new addition to the SA drinks market has a 5% alcohol content. It is also lowcalorie, gluten-free, and vegan-friendly.
Fancy a Picnic?
Here’s a new treat for all picnic lovers. DIEMERSFONTEIN has opened a deli called PROE. Expect the broadest choice of top-quality charcuterie, cheeses, fresh bread, preserves, and more to be enjoyed in a laid-back setting on the farm. Proe means ‘taste’ in Afrikaans and as such, reflects not only local cultural flair, but also the all-round offering that awaits visitors. Visitors first make a selection from the deli, then hand their baskets to a waiter for plating and serving. Both the deli seating and shady lawns below provide views across the farm dam and the mountains beyond. www.diemersfontein.co.za. CHANGES AT KLEINE ZALZE As the winelands face a new world of post-Covid tourism, they are still confronted with many challenges. In response to this, fan-favourite Kleine Zalze has announced the opening of the KLEINE ZALZE RESTAURANT. The restaurant will be housed in the space previously home to Terroir restaurant. After nearly 16 years of operation, Terroir proved hugely successful. Still, the new tourism landscape and safety concerns prompted Kleine Zalze to rethink – and reboot – the farm’s food offering. Moving away from fine dining, the menu will change regularly and offers a compact selection of plats du jour (a collection of dishes inspired by classic cuisine) and delicious tapas too. www. kleinezalze.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
grapevine.indd 7
7
2020/11/19 19:47
COVER STORY | Ernie Els
Five Reasons to Visit
Ernie Els Winery Discover some exciting NEW CHANGES
S
ince they first opened their doors in 2005, Ernie Els Wines has welcomed wine-lovers from around the world. Now, after completing their lengthy and extensive renovations, once again, the team is gearing up for another busy summer. While there are so many reasons to visit this newly refurbished Stellenbosh estate, we’ve selected our top five.
8
1. THE LOCATION Thoughtfully positioned, Ernie Els Wines is situated in The Golden Triangle of Stellenbosch which is recognised for producing some of the world’s greatest red wines. The beautiful property spans 75 hectares, with 50 hectares under vine and is framed by panoramic views of Cape Town and Table Mountain to the west, Stellenbosch and the Helderberg Mountains to the east.
2. THE WINE CELLAR With hospitality always a priority, this area still manages to be warm and welcoming despite the modern and state-of-the-art facilities. As a working farm, the Wine Cellar forms the vivid heart of the winery. The Fermentation Cellar houses rows of vast concrete tanks, whilst the Maturation Cellar contains rows of maturation barrels, amphora clay pots and concrete eggs.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Ernie Els DPS.indd 8
2020/11/19 14:47
Ernie Els | COVER STORY
3. THE TASTING ROOM Make yourself at home at the estate’s Tasting Room – the ideal setting to relax and enjoy an informative wine tasting presentation. The expansive area extends out onto the wide terrace, with sweeping Stellenbosch and Helderberg Mountain views. Here, there are two wine tastings on offer: the Player’s Tasting (R60pp) to taste six easy-drinking wines and the Major Tasting (R100pp) to taste the estate’s more exclusive wines. ‘Our newly-renovated winery expresses our style and generosity and epitomizes the very essence of our place within the Stellenbosch wine region.’
4. THE RESTAURANT Savour modern farmhouse cuisine at its finest in a charming open-plan space that extends out onto a terrace with even more mountain views. The farm-style décor reflects the hearty cuisine made from fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. Our favourite dishes? The Homemade Pesto Pasta and the Dry-Aged Rump Steak. The restaurant also offers Seasonal Grillworks, a unique outdoor dining experience available on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. 5. THE WINES Of course, let’s not forget about their award-winning wines. Named after South African golf legend, Ernie Els, and skillfully crafted by winemaking legend, Louis Strydom, you can enjoy any of their four collections at the estate: Signature, Major Series, Big Easy and Proprietor’s.
ERNIE ELS BRINGS YOU ICONIC WINES AND HEARTY FARM-STYLE CUISINE
When asked what sets Ernie Els wines apart, “It’s a single-minded focus, a site selected for its ideal growing conditions, and gentle extraction techniques during the wine-making process all combined to create premium, full-bodied wines with the classic Cabernet Sauvignon cues,” says winemaker Louis Strydom. Ernie Els Wines are also available for purchase in both the Tasting Room as well as the Restaurant at cellar door prices. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE ESTATE, VISIT WWW.ERNIEELSWINES.COM SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Ernie Els DPS.indd 9
9
2020/11/20 10:51
ADVERTORIAL | Flagstone Vegan Wines
NEW VEGAN WINES from Flagstone
Flagstone CELEBRATES 21 YEARS by expanding its VEGAN-FRIENDLY wine range
I
t’s perfectly reasonable to think that the wine you’re sipping is 100% vegan. After all, the delicious stuff is just fermented grapes, right? Well, not exactly…
After the fermentation process, natural by-products render a cloudy liquid and can influence the taste of the wine. In order to improve the taste and look of the liquid, fining agents need to be used. Traditionally fining agents are animal by-products in the form of isinglass, gelatin, albumin or casein. While these are removed from the final product along with any remaining particles, the use of these animal by-products in the winemaking process means that your wine is not vegan. 1 0
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Flagstone DPS.indd 10
Photography MATTHYS VAN LILL · Stylist: CHARNE ALEXANDER · Hair & Makeup NABZ SONDAY · Models ANELISA PAPU & ASHLEIGH BLACKWELL
2020/11/19 15:00
Flagstone Vegan Wines | ADVERTORIAL
As South African winemakers are not required to list ingredients on their wine labels, this means that many consumers are unaware that wines may not be vegan. However, thanks to producers such as Flagstone, things are a-changing. As an IPW accredited winery, Flagstone places a commitment to sustainability at the heart of how their wine is produced. (IPW or The Integrated Production of Wine is a voluntary environmental sustainability scheme established by the South African wine industry in 1998.) Flagstone is responding to changing consumer needs, who rightfully demand transparency and accountability, this continues to shape their progress as a winery. Embracing a vegan centric approach since 2019, Flagstone has made a distinct move to tread lightly on the planet. For the past two years, Flagstone has replaced all animal-based products used in the winemaking process, with plant-based products. The range includes: The Free Run Sauvignon Blanc 2019, The Tributary Chenin Blanc 2019, The Treaty Tree Cab Malbec Merlot 2018, Flagstone Truth Tree Pinotage 2019 and The Free Run Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2019. And, to celebrate 21 years of winemaking, the Flagstone team has introduced a brand new vegan-friendly wine, The Paradigm Chenin Blanc 2020.
Flagstone’s award-winning winemaker, Gerhard Swart says, “These wines will imbue your taste buds with the warmth, colour and vividness of the South African landscape. At the same time, your conscience will be imbued with the satisfaction of knowing that these wines are ethically sound and environmentally honourable.” FLAGSTONE’S VEGAN WINE RANGE
For more information about Flagstone’s vegan wine range, visit www.flagstonewines.com
THE FREE RUN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019: An upfront herbaceousness is followed by a bombardment of green pepper, fig leaves, passion fruit, star fruit and limey aromas, ending with a distinctive, bright flintiness. THE TRIBUTARY CHENIN BLANC 2019: Fresh peach, ripe apricot and dried pear introduce exotic aromas of this noble grape. Tropical notes follow through to the palate with hints of stone fruit, finishing with a well-balanced crisp acidity. THE TREATY TREE CAB MALBEC MERLOT 2018: On the nose summer fruits like strawberry, cherry and black-ripe youngberry, cassis, fennel and a hint of basil. The creamy palate is complemented by flavours of black cherry, wild mint, blueberry and dark chocolate.
THE FREE RUN RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019: Complex aromas of peach and dried fruit with a hint of lime. Stone fruit follows through on the palate with a dusting of mixed spice, finishing with a well-balanced, crisp acidity. FLAGSTONE TRUTH TREE PINOTAGE 2019: Up-front dark berries with dark chocolate and subtle spicy undertones. Flavours of darker blackberry and cherry with hints of dark chocolate and spicy oak on the palate. THE PARADIGM CHENIN BLANC 2020: Complex aromas of peach and dried fruit with a hint of lime. Stone fruit follows through on the palate with a dusting of mixed spice, finishing with a wellbalanced, crisp acidity.
PURCHASE FLAGSTONE’S VEGAN WINE RANGE TODAY Wine-of-the-Month Club has partnered with Flagstone Wines to bring you an EXCLUSIVE VEGAN WINE PACK that includes all six of Flagstone’s vegan wines. Order the six-pack for R899, or order 12 bottles for R1798 and receive two of each. Exclusively available from Wine-of-the-Month Club. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Flagstone DPS.indd 11
1 1
2020/11/20 10:49
WINE | Vertical vs Horizontal Tastings
VERTICAL TASTINGS
VERTICAL versus
H O R I Z O N TA L wine tasting Which way is up?
I
s there only one way to do a wine tasting? In other words, you taste a bunch of wines, decide which ones you like, discuss them with fellow wine lovers and then go home. Well, not exactly. Typically, there are two main types of tastings: vertical and horizontal. During a horizontal tasting, you compare a range of wines from the same year. The focus is on the difference between the wines. A vertical tasting looks at just one
1 2
wine through a range of different years, focusing on the difference in vintages. A horizontal tasting can be easier to put together than a vertical wine tasting, particularly if you stick to current, recent vintages that are still available from wine shops and your wine club. A vertical tasting of several vintages can be harder to organise: the older vintages are generally sold out or difficult to source. Here’s how to go about both tastings.
A vertical tasting compares a number of wines from a single estate or producer. Generally, all the wines are produced under the same name or label but come from different years. In essence, a vertical tasting allows folks to see (and taste) the evolution of a specific wine over time. Plus, you get a better understanding of the effect of various growing conditions that different vintages may have experienced. You might even be able to pick up changes in winemaking techniques or, if you’re very good, different equipment used. TIPS TO SET UP A VERTICAL TASTIN G • Choose one of your favourite wine producers and ideally include the estate’s signature wine. • Source three to four vintages of the wine, produced in successive years. • Taste these side-by-side in vintage order, either old to young or young to old. • Download some tasting notes which are often available on the producer’s website. These will generally offer information about the weather and growing season, the percentages of grape varieties used in the blend and winery techniques, such as the use of oak and how long each wine was matured for.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
vertical vs horizontal.indd 12
2020/11/19 15:02
Vertical vs Horizontal Tastings | WINE
HORIZONTAL TASTINGS
A horizontal tasting compares wines from the same year and region/style. In this format, you look at the differences between producers rather than comparing wines of different vintages from the same producer. Usually, the wines in a horizontal wine tasting come from the same region. If they don’t, the characteristics can be so different that you really won’t learn too much out of comparing them. For example, Chenin Blancs from different pockets of Stellenbosch will be much closer in style than Cabs from all over the place. But you don’t have to be limited by region. A more casual horizontal tasting could include just white wines, wines from a single grape variety, or whatever parameters you choose, as long as each bottle is the same vintage.
T IP S TO SET UP A HORIZON TAL TA S T IN G • If you are unsure what wine to serve, look online or even call our Wine-of-the-Month Club customer service staff who will be able to provide you with some ideas and tell you what is easily available. • If you’re new to horizontal tastings, start off with tasting three wines, and then work your way up to six. • With enough experience at horizontal tastings, amongst other things, you’ll soon begin to identify the contrast between fine, gentle tannins and coarser, drier ones. • Why not do as our panel does and make the tastings blind? Purchase some brown paper bags so that you can wrap the bottles as you pour them. • Water, crackers and/or bread are a great way to cleanse the palate in between tasting.
Although it sounds fancy, don’t take your vertical or horizontal tasting too seriously. It’s about having fun and enjoying the wines. Oh, and if you don’t use spittoons, be sure to organise an Uber for getting home. Happy tasting.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
vertical vs horizontal.indd 13
1 3
2020/11/19 15:02
Where have all the David Biggs INVESTIGATES FIVE of the WORLD’S most infamous WINE HEISTS
W
herever you find items of value you will find some devious human plotting to steal them. Jewellery, works of fine art, classic cars and—yes—fine wines have all been the subject of carefully plotted heists over the years. This raises an interesting thought: what exactly do we understand by “value”? An Aston Martin is considered to be many times more valuable than a Toyota, but why? They both carry passengers safely from place to place in much the same time. The one costs more to insure and maintain than the other, but people recognise the one as being “valuable” while the other is just ordinary. Collectors will bid millions for a painting by Van Gogh, but scorn an excellent copy of the same painting. Both will look equally attractive on your wall, but the one is a valuable treasure while the other is just décor. Similarly, certain wines are regularly sold for thousands of dollars a bottle on auction, while lesser labels are knocked down for a fraction of that price. An interesting aspect of this is that the collector’s thousand-dollar bottle will probably never be opened. An hour after 1 4
the cork is removed, it is worthless, so it is kept firmly sealed under lock and key and shown to admiring friends. By the time it is inherited by the buyer’s heirs it is probably completely undrinkable. But we recognise that it is “valuable.” None of these “valuable” items are essential to our wellbeing. They are only valuable because so-called experts tell us they are. Wealthy buyers collect them because they indicate to the world that they are successful. Nobody “needs” a Picasso painting. On the other hand, we would die if we did not have water. Why is water not considered more valuable than art? Reports of recent arrests of high-flying corrupt politicians have often included lists of the exotic cars owned by the crooks. They are owned simply for the status of owning them. They say: “See how wealthy I am.”
Back to the matter of valuable wines; one of the complicating ideas is the fact that without seeing the label very few people can actually distinguish between a great wine and a good one. This is why there have been instances of crooks stealing labels, rather than bottles, and dressing up inferior wines as valuable classics. Is anybody confident enough to take a sip and declare: “This is not a ‘95 Lafite”? In fact, there are hundreds of cheap wines out there right now dressed in stolen labels and masquerading as wine royalty.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Wine Heists.indd 14
2020/11/19 15:04
trucks were empty. No trace of the wine has been found. The wine simply appears to have vanished. 4. OLD FASHIONED CROOKS Wine thieves
are often bold, brash and inventive. In Britain, a gang of thieves broke into a wine warehouse guarded by CCTV cameras. They not only managed to disable the cameras but stole 400 cases of rare wines and then stole a fork-lift truck to load the loot onto their lorry. Again no trace has been found of the thieves or the half million pounds worth of stolen wine. Not even royalty escapes the cunning wine heisters.
5. A COUPLE OF THIRSTY THIEVES In Britain
Let’s take a look at some of the most (in)famous wine heists from across the world. 1. A FRENCH FAUX PAS French vintner Jacques Selosse produces only 60 000 bottles of perhaps the most exclusive bubbly in the world. They sell for several hundred dollars a bottle. In 2013 thieves broke into his cellar and stole 4000 bottles, worth more than a million dollars. What is worse, they also stole 16 000 unused labels. Nobody was ever caught. Who knows now whether the Selosse wine you’re drinking is the real thing or just a cheap sparkler dressed in a stolen label?
3. TROUBLE DOWN UNDER In Australia the
famous McLaren Vale winery supplies fine wines to hotels and restaurants in Sydney. In 2013 two trucks left the farm carrying 60 000 bottles of wine. Along the route it was discovered that both
One of the most complicated wine thefts occurred in Paris some years ago. Thieves surveyed and mapped the labyrinth of tunnels under the city and then located a fine wine cellar and used jackhammers to enter it and steal the wines from underneath. They were never caught. Maybe it’s true that wine sharpens the mind. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Wine Heists.indd 15
Illustration by: Chloe Damstra
without a taste
2. THE SWITCH UP Sometimes it’s an “inside job.” In California the Legend Cellar stores rare wines in carefully controlled conditions for their wealthy owners. Some years ago the manager’s father, George Osini, was caught switching bottles of exclusive wine for cheap plonk. He had been getting away with it for some time, accounting for almost three million dollars of the good stuff. He’s one of the few wine thieves that have actually been caught and is now serving a six-year jail sentence for fraud. Many well-documented wine heists remain a complete mystery.
the wine merchants Berry Brothers and Rudd supply wine to Buckingham Palace for the use of the queen and her guests. In 2015 thieves broke into the Berry Bro’s warehouse and stole cases of Chateau Latour and Mouton-Rothschild, recognised as being among the finest wines in the world. These were obviously thieves with fine palates. When the theft was discovered it was found the thieves had stayed in the warehouse for long enough to open and drink a couple of magnums of Moët and Chandon champagne. Thievery can obviously be thirsty work. I wonder whether they brought their own Champagne glasses?
1 5
2020/11/19 15:04
ADVERTORIAL | Morgenster
Bellevue | ADVERTORIAL
BELLEVUE’S RESERVE RANGE Designed to SHOWCASE the estate’s OLD VINEYARD WINES
B
ellevue Wine Estate tells a typical South African tale about a farm with humble roots that was acquired with the idea of livestock farming. But, as the years went by, vineyards were planted in the fertile soils. After delivering wine to the former SFW, Bellevue later developed their own wine brand. And, the rest, as they say, is history. Did you know most vines on Bellevue are planted based on the bush vine method? Bush vines naturally produce a smaller crop and consequently good concentration. The farm also boasts some of the oldest blocks of vineyards in the country. To showcase the best of these valuable, old vineyard wines made on Bellevue, the estate has recently launched a 1 6
brand-new Reserve Range. This highly anticipated range consists of a barrelaged Chardonnay, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon as well as a Bordeaux Blend – where all five components are grown on the estate. Suffice to say, Bellevue’s Reserve Range is testament that good things take time. And, they often come in small packages—or crops for that matter.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
To f in d o ut m o re ab o ut B el l e v u e’s R e s e r v e R ang e , v i sit W W W. B E L L E V U E . C O . Z A
Bellevue FP Advertorial chosen.indd 16
2020/11/19 16:24
Home Wine Collection | FEATURE
A quick guide to starting a
HOME WINE COLLECTION
F
or most of us the simple enjoyment of drinking wine generally evolves into something more. We join a wine club, we start collecting our favourites, we store some to drink now and we save special bottles for later. Sure enough, this is how most wine collections start. READY TO START A PROPER WINE COLLECTION? HERE ARE A FEW TIPS TO GET YOU STARTED: CREATE A SPACE Creating a dedicated space for your wines is crucial. It will help you stay organised and excited about building a collection. Maybe you have the perfect nook in mind or perhaps you’ve got the money to build a cellar in your basement or under your staircase. Either way, remember that this spot needs to be cool and away from direct sunlight. TAKE YOUR TIME A good wine collection shouldn’t appear overnight. If you’ve made the space or built the shelves, take your time. Rather than ordering bulk in one sitting, don’t rush to fill the shelves. Enjoy the process. Remember even though you might get your hands on some outstanding wines now, even better ones could be coming next month. GET ORGANISED Hopefully, with time, there is some order to your wine cellar’s storage. Keep the
same varietals together, and maybe even arrange them alphabetically or from youngest to oldest. Whether it’s a journal, app, spreadsheet or chalkboard, figure out a system for keeping an up-to-date inventory. There’s nothing worse than letting a great wine go to waste because you forgot about it at the bottom of the rack. DON’T LOSE FOCUS ON WHAT YOU LIKE While we’re all for enjoying the process of building a varied wine collection, try not to get caught up in passing trends or wine fads. You know the wines you like, so stick to them. If orange wines are all the rage, and you’re not a fan, don’t fall victim to the ‘it’ wines of the moment. Buy what you like. DON’T BE TOO HANDSY You might be tempted to show off your good bottles to anyone who is willing to listen. But, try to let those really, really good bottles rest, and don’t pick them up and pass them around at every chance you get. If you have recently bought a very old wine, try and let it sit (untouched!) for six weeks before opening it.
DO YOUR RESEARCH Read up on what types of wines make for a good, well-rounded collection. Better yet, chat with one of Wine-of-theMonth Club’s customer service staff who will be happy to share what collectible wines are available in our warehouse and online. And, if we don’t stock it, we’ll do our best to find it for you. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Home Wine Collection.indd 17
1 7
2020/11/19 15:07
An Old Man’s TRIBUTE
The OLD MAN’S BLEND RANGE came into being in 2001 at the behest of Groote Post’s ‘Old Man’, Peter Pentz, who asked the family to blend him a red wine to enjoy as his winter evening tipple. The enormous popularity of The Old Man’s Blend Red established a Groote Post tradition.
Groote Post FPAD.indd 18
2020/11/19 15:08
Summer Cocktails | RECIPES
Summer COCKTAILS W
hen the weather warms up, refreshing summer cocktails are the best way to keep your cool. These classic-style cocktail recipes, which range from simple to more complex concoctions, are the ideal accompaniment to balmy summer evenings. Master these recipes and you’ll have yourself a happy hour cocktail menu always on the ready. So log off, and leave your home office in the dust because it’s time to head to your patio, deck, balcony or garden with a killer cocktail in hand.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Cocktails.indd 19
1 9
2020/11/19 13:09
RECIPES | Summer Cocktails
50ml Cruxland Gin infused with Black Winter Truffles 20ml lemon juice 20ml blackberry simple syrup* soda water Garnish: blackberry skewer lime wheel *To make 100ml of blackerry simple syrup, simmer a handful of crushed blackberries in 50ml water in a pan. Add 50ml sugar and stir until dissolved. Strain and refrigerate before use. In a cocktail glass, add ingredients over ice and top with soda water. Garnish with the blackberry skewer and lemon wheel.
2 0
Cocktails.indd 20
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
2020/11/19 13:09
Summer Cocktails | RECIPES
50ml KWV 12 Year Old Brandy 15ml Van der Hum Liqueur 25ml lemon juice 15ml sugar syrup Bitters Garnish: 1 orange slice 1 sprig of thyme Pour all the ingredients into a shaker with ice. Shake for approximately 30 seconds until liquid is chilled. Strain into a lowball glass over ice. Add a dash or two of bitters, to taste. Lastly, garnish with an orange wheel and sprig of thyme.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Cocktails.indd 21
2 1
2020/11/19 13:57
RECIPES | Summer Cocktails
Victoria Amber Gin
Victoria Amber Gin
2 2
Cocktails.indd 22
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
2020/11/20 13:55
Summer Cocktails | RECIPES
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Cocktails.indd 23
2 3
2020/11/19 21:54
INSPIRATION | Gift Guide for Winos
Gift Guide
for
WINOS Spoil your wine-loving friends with these thoughtful finds
Hummingbird Bottle Stopper, R295 from Carrol Boyes Inspired by a moment in the flight of the hummingbird.
Leather Wine Tote Bag, R1250 from Arrow Leather Goods A luxurious full grain leather bag that can hold up to two bottles. Foam padded for protection and insulation, the inside is lined with water resistant 100% cotton canvas and has a small leather pocket to keep your valuables safe.
Wine Glass, R159 from Zara Home
How To Drink Wine, Grant Reynolds & Chris Stang Grasping The Grape, Maryse Chevriere Both available at Exclusive Books online only.
2 4
Gift Guide.indd 24
Wave Drinks Tray Round, R3745 from Carrol Boyes The shape of this tray ensures you can carry several glasses comfortably.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
2020/11/19 15:09
Gift Guide for Winos | INSPIRATION
Star Burst Glass Tray, R359 - R705 from elevenpast
Hummingbird Coaster (set of 2), R495 from Carrol Boyes Two beautiful stainless steel coasters stamped with the popular hummingbird design.
Smeg Dolce Stil Novo Wine Cooler, R58 299 from Smeg South Africa The 60cm, 114L Smeg undercounter wine cooler is semi-integrated and has space to hold 38 wine bottles.
Riedel Microfibre Polishing Cloth, R250 Will clean and dry fine glassware without leaving streaks or lint behind. Riedel Cleaning Beads, R185 Perfect for cleaning the wine stains out of hard to reach places in wine decanters, without damaging the glass.
Bubbly New Years Countdown Calendar, R1199 from Wine-of-the-Month Club Open a different bottle of bubbly every day from the 26th of December as you countdown to the New Year in style.
Both available from Reciprocal Wine Company SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Gift Guide.indd 25
2 5
2020/11/19 15:10
FEATURE | Braai & Wine Pairing
The Ultimate
BRAAI &
WINE PAIRINGS
From braaibroodjies to wors, THERE’S A WINE TO MATCH
I
s there anything better than a summer braai? The lazy days around the pool, the clank of a Weber lid, and the promise of a tender tjop sizzling away. The only thing that might make your afternoon even better? Great wines to pair alongside your go-to braai recipes. South Africans braai just about anything. So this often means there’s a variety of dishes on the table, making it tricky to pick just one or two wines to serve. To help out, we’ve paired a number of wines with some real braai classics. T O STA RT Welcome your guests with a chilled glass of bubbly or rosé. While the salads are being prepped, and the fire has just been lit, a bottle of MCC or a fresh, fruity pink wine will set the tone of a great Sunday afternoon. Plus, if anyone wants to keep on the bubbly all day, it goes particularly well with mild chicken and fish dishes, and also fresh snacks. Our pick: Anthonij Rupert L’Ormarins Blanc de Blanc 2013 (Price R229) 2 6
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
braai pairing.indd 26
T H EM SN ACKS A braai isn’t a braai without a bowl of biltong and salty crisps, right? Chenin Blanc is another great choice of wine before a meal with its slightly sweeter tones of apple and floral notes pairing well with light snacks and cheeses. If you’ve got a salad with a creamy dressing, keep the Chenin a-flowing. Our pick: Bellevue Chenin Blanc 2020 (Price R90) BRAAIED SN OEK A true Cape treasure, snoek on the braai is always a firm favourite. It’s often prepared with apricot and butter, which adds a sweet edge to the predominantly salty fish. Try pairing this dish with a white blend: the light fruitiness complements the sweet apricot flavours, and a blend with oak finish will also allow the richness of braaied snoek to come through. Our pick: Villiera Down to Earth White 2020 (Price R69,99) F RESH SHEL L FIS H We’re talking mussels over the grill, or maybe some prawns or crayfish with garlic butter. Remember though, a Chardonnay’s softness is easily overwhelmed by pungent foods, so
2020/11/20 10:12
Braai & Wine Pairing | FEATURE
avoid pairing it with strong flavours. Instead, match a Chardonnay with delicate and lightly cooked fish dishes. Oh, and Chardonnay also goes particularly well with hot, buttered-up braai mealies. Our pick: Spier Seaward Chardonnay 2019 (Price R99) SPI CY C H I CK E N For white meats, you need white wine. And, there’s nothing better than a crisp Sauvignon Blanc to stand up to a bit of spice. If you enjoy slightly spiced chicken over the braai, Sauvignon Blanc’s tropical fruit flavours will enhance the flamegrilled bird. Plus, a good Sauvignon Blanc goes really well with potato salad too. Our pick: Silver Leaf Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (Price R79,99) ST E A K O R C H O P S A red blend is a great choice here because it pairs well with red meats, and won’t overpower any of the barbequed flavours. Lamb chops and beefsteak are accompanied really well by full-bodied red wines like Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. These wines pick up the smokiness of the meat and those with heavy tannins can help cut through fatty meats like wors. Our pick: Eagles' Nest Little Eagle Red 2017 (Price R169)
S TA RCHY SIDES A glass of Merlot is a great companion for most of the regular starchy, cheesy side dishes you see at many braais. A good Merlot’s velvety tannins and sweet red fruit flavours can lift the delicious heaviness of a cheesy braai broodjie or creamy potato bake. Our pick: Glenelly Glass Collection Merlot 2017 (Price R109)
SOMETHIN G SW EET Whatever you decide to serve for dessert, a sweet wine is always a good option, even on its own. Thinking about serving a malva pudding, milk tart or maybe even a Magnum ice cream? A Riesling or Noble Late Harvest is your best bet. The dried fruit flavours will complement the sugar content of just about any dessert. Our pick: De Wetshof Mine d’Or Riesling 2018 (Price R112)
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
braai pairing.indd 27
2 7
2020/11/20 10:12
ADVERTORIAL | Dornier
Along with FINE WINE, Dornier has a WHOLE LOT MORE to offer
2 8
Dornier.indd 28
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
C O N TAC T D E TA I L S
T H E TA ST I N G R O OM
021 880 0557 | info@dornier.co.za
NOV-APR | 09h00 - 18h00 | Mon - Sun
Upper Blaauwklippen Road, Stellenbosch
MAY-OCT | 09h00 - 17h00 | Mon - Sun
2020/11/19 15:31
| ADVERTORIAL
Dornier wine estate is surrounded by some of the best sweeping views
D
ornier Wine Estate is a family-owned estate situated on the slopes of the majestic Stellenbosch Mountain. The estate is of great architectural significance featuring some of the oldest buildings in Stellenbosch, Sir Herbert Baker designed buildings and the iconic Dornier Wine Cellar.
“The wines provide for the PERFECT ACCOMPANIMENT and MARRIAGE with several types of CUISINE.”
The wines of Dornier are expressive of the unique terroir present at Dornier and include various rare, single variety wines produced in limited volumes such as Dornier Semillon, Malbec, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot and Tinta Barocca. The wines provide for the perfect accompaniment and marriage with several types of cuisine. The Wine Lounge at Dornier provides the idyllic setting for discovering the wines of Dornier whilst showcasing some of the distinctive artwork painted by the late founder Christoph Dornier. Dornier’s modern wine tasting facility is situated adjacent to Dornier’s working wine cellar and boasts panoramic views of Stellenbosch Mountain. Wine tasting at Dornier includes 6 wines at R60 per person. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Dornier.indd 29
2 9
2020/11/19 15:31
10 Wine Podcasts to Listen To Plug in and tune out with our top wine podcasts
P
odcasts have exploded all around the world. According to Edison Research, in 2019 the number of weekly listeners reached a whopping 144 million. Covering every topic possible, good podcasts can offer trustworthy reviews, informed opinions, and, of course, quality entertainment. A welcome dose of escapism, podcasts are a great way to sneak in some knowledge or extra relaxation during day-to-day activities like driving to work or walking the dog. Of course, wine is a subject that receives a lot of podcast coverage too. But, with so much out there, where do you even begin? For your listening pleasure, we’ve put together a list of 10 popular wine podcasts that range from informal chats to jampacked info sessions. Whether you’re just starting a wine journey or have a cellar packed full of vintage blends, there’s something in this list for you.
1. All About Wine The All About Wine
podcast is for those who enjoy oldschool style radio shows. Each episode mimics a weekly call-in show hosted by Ron Hunt (a winemaker, cellar master and tasting expert) who discusses a wide range of wine topics and industry news.
2. The Grape Nation Hosted by wine expert Sam Benrubi, The Grape Nation comes to you live from New York City’s Heritage Radio. Every week features a new expert guest who recommends a wine list at the end of the session.
3 0
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Pg00 Wine Podcasts.indd 30
2020/11/20 14:22
6. WINE FOR NORMAL PEOPLE Hosted by “wine dork” sommelier Elizabeth Schneider CSW, a “wine-loving normal person”, Wine for Normal People aims to make the various complexities of wine easier for laypeople to understand. 7. WINE ENTHUSIAST Offering biweekly episodes, this popular podcast features wine writers and editors of Wine Enthusiast exploring aspects of different wine regions. Just like the magazine, topics span beer and spirits too. Oh, and the much-anticipated new season began in May of this year. 8. I’LL DRINK TO THAT Hosted by Levi
popular podcast hosted by two selfproclaimed ‘wannabe wine snobs,’ Dave Adams and Sandi Everingham. The podcast mostly focuses on wines from Washington State (where the two hosts are based) and revolve around the duos’ entertaining interviewees.
4. REAL WINE PEOPLE To keep up with
Australia’s ever-growing wine industry subscribe to this podcast from Ben Gould, who is the owner of Blind Corner Wines in Margaret River. Naturally, Ben’s line-up of interesting guests also includes some top Australian winemakers.
5. THE STORIES BEHIND WINE If we judged a podcast by its name, this would surely be the winner. The Stories Behind Wine is produced by the Napa Valley Wine Academy. The show features shorter interviews covering more advanced topics, with two extremely knowledgeable co-hosts.
Pg00 Wine Podcasts.indd 31
Dalton the I’ll Drink to That podcast is for those who want to learn about the people behind the wine. A former sommelier, Levi interviews well-known wine personalities from his apartment and to date has close to 500 episodes.
BONUS LOCAL PICK: WINES OF SOUTH AFRICA Wines of South Africa (WOSA),
the industry association that promotes the exports of South African wine, recently launched two initiatives aimed at offering continued education and awareness of South African wines: the Wines of South Africa podcast and WOSA Somm Sessions.
9. THE UNRESERVED WINE TALK Best for people looking for honest conversations and insights about life in the wine world, host and award-winning journalist Natalie MacLean offers genuine conversations with renowned personalities in the wine industry.
Illustration by: Chloe Damstra
3. DECANTED Decanter magazine has a
10. GUILD OF SOMMELIERS PODCAST First launched in 2011, this long-running podcast offers in-depth conversations with all kinds of industry personalities and are led by GuildSomm President and Master Sommelier Geoff Kruth. With a heavy educational spin, the Guild of Sommeliers podcast offers insightful information to help those studying for wine certificates and courses.
2020/11/20 14:22
ADVERTORIAL | ANTHONIJ RUPERT
n o i t a r b e cel
‘WINE IS A IN ITSELF’ We sit down with Anthonij Rupert’s head winemaker, DAWIE BOTHA
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT BEING A WINEMAKER? It’s a great joy (and responsibility) to harness the very best from nature by picking grapes at their optimal ripeness. That, and, of course, bringing truly enjoyable wines to our customers. WHAT SETS ANTHONIJ RUPERT WINES APART? Anthonij Rupert has some of the best sites to work within the Cape winelands. It’s these sites, as well as the attention to detail with which we manage them, that adds a definitive quality and value across all our brands WHAT’S ONE OF THE MOST INTERESTING PARTS OF YOUR JOB? One of the most interesting and impactful parts of my job is the decisions we make in the cellar. It’s these important decisions that all add up to the wine’s final style and quality. It’s the small differences that can have the biggest impact. DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE FOOD AND WINE PAIRING? Karoo lamb on the braai and a glass of Optima. Add a couple of good friends and you’ll have a magical combination. WHAT DO YOU THINK SETS ANTHONIJ RUPERT WINES APART FROM OTHER PRODUCERS? We have an ongoing commitment to continuous improvement. And, I see how everyone shows this commitment in their actions—from the vineyard to the cellar. There is no such thing as ‘good enough.’ 3 2
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Anthonij Rupert.indd 32
2020/11/19 15:35
YOUR SECRET TO YOUR SUCCESS? Of course, my family provides me with endless inspiration and support. We also have an incredible wine production team, from the farm managers to the winemakers. I am very lucky to have a team of winemakers who are all specialists in their field. WHAT DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO EXPERIENCE WHEN DRINKING YOUR WINES? Firstly, I want them to enjoy it. And, with that, also taste the sense of place and the hard work that went into each bottle. THE BEST WAY TO ENJOY A GLASS OF WINE? You don’t need a sense of occasion to enjoy a great glass of wine, wine is a celebration in itself. Want to experience the wines of Anthonij Rupert? Why not visit one of their beautiful tasting rooms—each one with its own unique offering. The Terra del Capo Tasting Room and Antipasti Bar is inspired by the range of Italian wines of the same name, is food orientated. Terra del Capo provides guests the opportunity to pair wines from the lifestyle brands with a seasonal antipasti style menu. While the Anthonij Rupert Tasting room offers a more formal tasting of the group’s premium wine brands, with the opportunity to book a bespoke High Tea experience for parties of four-or more.
FOR MORE INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES AVAILABLE AT THE FARM, VISIT WWW.RUPERTWINES.COM
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Anthonij Rupert.indd 33
3 3
2020/11/19 15:35
RECIPES | SUMMER FEAST
SUMMER
Feast
Sw e et Appl e Shortbr ead Tartl ets 3 4
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Recipes-Dec.indd 34
2020/11/19 15:36
SUMMER FEAST | RECIPES
HOMEMADE SWEET APPLE SHORTBREAD TARTLETS Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: For the shortbread pastry: 275g | 2 cups plain flour ½ tsp salt 80g | ²/³ cup icing sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tbsp calvados, optional 250g | 1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into chunks 1 tsp water For the topping: 2 large cooking apples, cored, peeled, and diced 65g | ¹/³ cup soft brown sugar 1 cinnamon stick 60g | ¹/³ cup walnuts, chopped 1 tbsp thyme leaves METHOD: 1. For the shortbread pastry: Combine the flour, salt and sugar in a food processor, pulsing to combine. 2. Add the vanilla extract, calvados (if using), butter, and water, pulsing until a rough dough forms around the blades of the processor. 3. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and shape it into a disc. Wrap in clingfilm and chill for 1 hour. 4. After chilling, preheat the oven to 170°C. As the oven preheats, let the shortbread dough stand at room temperature for 10-15 min to soften. 5. Divide the dough into four and shape each piece into four individual tartlet tins, pressing up the sides with your fingers and smoothing the tops flat with the back of a tablespoon. 6. Bake for about 22-28 min until golden and dry to the touch on top. Remove from the oven and let the shortbread cool in their tins set on a wire rack. 7. For the topping: In the meantime, combine the apples, sugar, and cinnamon stick in a saucepan with 2 tbsp water. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the apples are soft, about 10-12 min. 8. When ready to serve, turn out the shortbread tartlets and top them with the apples, walnuts, and thyme leaves before serving. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Recipes-Dec.indd 35
3 5
2020/11/19 15:37
RECIPES | SUMMER FEAST
GREEN CURRY WITH MATCHA TEA AND LIME Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: For the curry: 2 tbsp coriander seeds 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 ½ tsp matcha green tea powder
Matcha Tea & Lim e Gr e en Curry
3 6
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Recipes-Dec.indd 36
1 pinch nutmeg, freshly grated 6 garlic cloves, chopped 5 shallots, chopped 1 large bunch coriander, chopped, plus extra for garnishing 8 green chillies, seeded and chopped 125g | ž cup galangal, chopped 2 lemongrass stalks, outer leaves removed, inner stalks chopped
4 kaffir lime leaves, chopped 2 tbsp Thai shrimp paste 1 lime, juiced 4 tbsp sunflower oil, or groundnut oil 2 skinless chicken breasts, sliced 400ml chicken stock 400ml coconut milk 250g | 2 cups mangetout, roughly sliced 4 small pak choi, roughly chopped salt freshly ground black pepper To serve: coriander sprigs 2 limes, cut into wedges 1 tbsp black peppercorns, crushed METHOD: 1. Toast the coriander and cumin seeds in a dry frying pan set over a medium heat until aromatic. 2. Tip into a spice grinder, add the matcha powder, and blitz until fine and powdery. Tip into a blender or food processor. 3. Add the nutmeg, garlic, shallots, coriander, chillies, galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, shrimp paste, and lime juice. Blend on high until smooth and paste-like. 4. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large wok set over a moderate heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper before adding to the wok and stir-frying until golden, about 3-4 min. Transfer to a plate. 5. Add the remaining oil and then the paste, frying until it starts to darken whilst frequently, about 4-5 min. 6. Whisk in the stock and coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Position the chicken in the sauce, partially cover with a lid, and cook over a low heat until cooked through, about 6-8 min. 7. Add the mangetout and pak choi to the curry and cook for a further 3-4 min until just tender. 8. Season the curry with salt and pepper to taste. 9. Serve the curry from the wok with a garnish of coriander sprigs, some lime wedges, and a sprinkle of crushed black peppercorns.
2020/11/19 15:37
SUMMER FEAST | RECIPES
Indon esian- Styl e Chick en Salad INDONESIAN-STYLE CHICKEN SALAD Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: For the salad: 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tsp soft brown sugar 600g | 4 cups chicken breast fillets, halved lengthways 2 tbsp sunflower oil 2 red chillies, seeded and thinly sliced 2 carrots, peeled, halved, and sliced on the bias 2 Persian cucumbers, halved lengthways, seeded, and sliced on the bias 3 banana shallots, thinly sliced on the bias ½ small pineapple, peeled and cut into batons 150g | 3 cups beansprouts, trimmed
Recipes-Dec.indd 37
For the dressing: 85g | 1/3 cup crunchy peanut butter 1 ½ limes, juiced 100ml coconut milk, plus extra as needed 1 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra as needed 1 tsp sesame oil ½ tsp soft brown sugar ¼ tsp fresh ginger, peeled and grated To serve: 1 handful coriander leaves 1 handful mint leaves 75 g | 1/2 cup unsalted peanuts, lightly toasted METHOD: 1. For the salad: Stir together soy sauce, garlic, and sugar in a small dish. Add the chicken, turn to coat, and let marinade
to one side. 2. Heat the oil in a wok set over a high heat until hot. Add the chicken and stirfry until just cooked through, turning frequently, about 4-5 min. 3. Remove from the wok and let rest, covered loosely with aluminium foil, as you prepare the dressing. 4. For the dressing: Whisk together all the ingredients for the dressing in a large mixing bowl until smooth. Adjust to taste with more soy sauce, lime juice, or coconut milk as needed. 5. Add the chillies, carrots, cucumbers, shallots, pineapple, and beansprouts to the bowl of dressing, tossing to combine. 6. To serve: Divide between serving plates and top with the chicken, herbs, and peanuts before serving. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
3 7
2020/11/19 15:37
RECIPES | SUMMER FEAST ONE SALAD WINE MIXTO WITH RULE ORANGE, THEMWALNUTS ALL
AND DRIED CRANBERRIES Serves 4
INGREDIENTS: 2 large oranges 150g | 6 cups lamb's lettuce, washed 1 small radicchio, leaves separated and torn 100g | ²/³ cup walnuts 75g | ½ cup dried cranberries 75ml extra-virgin olive oil salt freshly ground black pepper METHOD: 1. Using a sharp knife, remove the peel and white pith from the oranges. Holding the oranges over a bowl, make a cut on either either side of the membranes to release the segments into the bowl. 2. Divide the lamb's lettuce and radicchio between plates. Top with the orange segments, walnuts, and cranberries. 3. Serve with a small pot of olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper.
Orang e, Walnut & Cranb erry Salad
3 8
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Recipes-Dec.indd 38
2020/11/19 15:37
SUMMER FEAST | RECIPES
Appl e & Nut Muffins Recipe on page 41
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Recipes-Dec.indd 39
3 9
2020/11/20 10:47
Br ead ed Chick en & Veg etabk es in Lettuc e 4 0
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Recipes-Dec.indd 40
Recipes courtesy of Stockfood
RECIPES | SUMMER FEAST
2020/11/19 15:37
SUMMER FEASTS | RECIPES
BREADED CHICKEN AND VEGETABLES IN LETTUCE LEAVES SERVED WITH COCONUT AND PEANUT BUTTER Serves 2 INGREDIENTS: For the chicken: 100g | 1 1/3 cup wholemeal breadcrumbs 50g | ½ cup sunflower seeds 2 tbsp raw peanuts 2 tbsp ground flaxseed 6 chicken breast fillets (tenders) 2 tbsp plain all-purpose flour 1 large egg, lightly beaten 3 tbsp rapeseed (canola) oil For the sauce: 75g | 1/3 cup smooth peanut butter 2 tbsp coconut cream 1 tbsp runny honey 1 ½ tbsp fish sauce ½ tsp Chinese five spice powder 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 lime, juiced To serve: 6 lettuce leaves 1 cucumber, spiralised 12 sugarsnap peas, split open lengthways 100 g | ¾ cup canned chickpeas, drained 1 handful mustard cress METHOD: 1. To make the sauce, blend all of the ingredients together and transfer to a serving pot. 2. To make the coating for the chicken, put the breadcrumbs in a food processor with the sunflower seeds, peanuts and ground flaxseed. Pulse until finely chopped, then tip onto a plate. 3. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, then dust it with flour. Shake off the excess, then coat it with beaten egg. 4. Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Dip
the chicken in the breadcrumb mixture, then fry for 3 min on each side or until cooked through and golden brown. Transfer the chicken to a sheet of kitchen paper to drain any excess oil. 5. Arrange the lettuce leaves on two serving plates and fill with the cucumber, sugarsnaps and chickpeas. Cut the chicken strips into bite-size pieces and arrange on top. 6. Garnish with mustard cress and serve with the satay sauce for spooning over at the table. GLUTEN-FREE VEGAN APPLE AND NUT MUFFINS (GLUTEN-FREE, VEGAN) Makes 12 INGREDIENTS: 2 tbsp vegan margarine 2 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored and diced 150g | 2/3 cup apple puree, or sauce 250ml almond milk 85g | ½ cup light brown sugar 3 tbsp sunflower oil 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tbsp flaxseeds, ground, mixed with 3 tbsp water 225g | 1 ½ cups gluten-free plain flour 1 tsp gluten-free baking powder ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 pinch salt 12 walnut halves icing sugar, for dusting METHOD: 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a 12hole muffin or cupcake tin with paper cases. 2. Melt the margarine in a saute pan set over a medium heat. Add the apple and sauté until soft and golden, about 6-8 min. Remove from the heat and set aside.
3. Briefly whisk together the apple puree, almond milk, sugar, sunflower oil, vanilla and ground flaxseed mixture in a large mixing bowl. 4. Add the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt. Fold well until a rough batter forms. Add the sautéed apple and fold again to incorporate. 5. Divide the batter between the paper cases and top each with a walnut. Bake for 20-25 min until golden and slightly risen; a cake tester should come out clean from their centres. 6. Remove to a wire rack to cool before serving with a light dusting of icing sugar on top.
PAIRS WITH: The newly launched, vegan wine from Flagstone, Paradigm Chenin Blanc 2020 pairs well with a variety of chicken and vegetable dishes. And, with aromas of peaches, dried fruit and lime, followed by stone fruit on the palate, you'd be amiss to not try this with your favourite sweet recipes too. Available from Wine-of-the-Month Club for R250
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Recipes-Dec.indd 41
4 1
2020/11/20 11:06
ADVERTORIAL | Stony Brook Vineyards
W Visit Franschhoek’s favourite BOUTIQUE WINERY FOR MORE INFORMATION: www.stonybrook.co.za T: +27 21 876 2182 Green Valley Road, Franschhoek
Stony Brook FPAT.indd 42
HEN VISITING THE FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY, THERE ARE VERY FEW WINERIES THAT COMPARE WITH THE AUTHENTICITY AND PASSION THAT POURS OUT OF THE EXPERIENCE AT STONY BROOK. This boutique wine farm is positioned in the Bo-Hoek: an exquisite area that has long been recognized for its unique micro-climate, which is partly responsible for the extraordinary standard of wines being produced in this corner of Franschhoek. It was this potential for quality that attracted the McNaught family here in the early 1990s, which now allows them to produce critically-acclaimed wines that are inspired by the old-world classics. Taking over the winemaking role from his father, Nigel in 2011, Craig McNaught continues to craft wines that are true to the family’s vision of bottling soulful wines that can stand up to their European contemporaries. While Stony Brook currently produces thirteen different wines, they are all made in
tiny volumes. Among their range is a Blanc de Blancs (Cap Classique), called ‘Lyle’, which meticulously spends 50 months on the lees and is easily compared to a high-end grower Champagne. Named after a centuries-old eucalyptus tree next to the tasting room, the ‘Ghost Gum White’ Chardonnay and ‘Ghost Gum Red’ Cabernet Sauvignon are Stony Brook’s flagship offerings and both beg to be cellared for a few years. Stony Brook is also famed for having one of the first Tempranillo vineyards ever planted in South Africa, which is responsible for their highly sought-after single variety red wine, ‘Ovidius’. If you are interested in purchasing any of their wines, Stony Brook delivers all over South Africa and Europe. Visit www.stonybrook.co.za or spend an afternoon at their tasting room to discover why Stony Brook is heralded as Franschhoek’s favourite boutique winery.
2020/11/19 15:39
TIP: Try a tall drink
made with a shot of Agava and a generous glug of sparkling lemon.
YOUR WINE FAQS
I LIKE TO END A BUSY DAY BY WINDING DOWN WITH A GLASS OF RED WINE as I watch the sunset over the mountains. During the recent Coronavirus alcohol ban, I was searching my drinks cupboard for something to drink as a casual sundowner. I had run out of everyday quaffing wines and had only a few bottles of very expensive ones left. I did, however, find an intriguing bottle of “Gold Agava” at the back of the cupboard. Apparently, it’s made in Graaff Reinet in the Karoo. What is it and how should it be served? Agava is a tequila distilled from the juice of the agave aloe and is often used as a basis for a margarita cocktail, mixed with lemon juice. The booze ban caused many regular wine and beer drinkers to experiment with novel and inventive cocktails and also helped clear out some of the booze stocks that might not usually have been used.
YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED
What is “Gold Agava” and how should it be served? What is the best wine to serve with pork or ham? When entertaining, is it necessary to go through the whole tasting process before serving the wine?
I LIKE TO FOLLOW THE OLD RULE OF WHITE WINE WITH WHITE MEAT and red wine with red meat, but what is the best wine to serve with pork or ham? It’s safe to keep to the same set of rules and serve a rosé with pork. Pink wine with pink meat. Rosés have recently grown in popularity and there are many elegantly dry ones on the market.
WHEN ENTERTAINING FRIENDS TO DINNER is it considered necessary to go through the whole tasting process before serving the wine? That depends on the friends and the occasion. If they’re regular pals it might be seen as unnecessarily pretentious to swirl, sniff and roll your eyes before pouring. Just open the bottle and pour. If, however, it’s a special bottle of rare wine you’ve been saving for a special occasion by all means add a little ceremony to the occasion. It also sends a subtle message to your guests that they are about to taste something special. If it’s a wine that has been brought by one of your guests it might be a nice gesture to ask the donor to taste it before pouring. Whatever you decide, just remember that wine should never add stress to an occasion. It’s there for enjoyment. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
FAQ.indd 43
4 3
2020/11/19 15:40
WINE | Panel Report
IT’S GOOD TO BE Alive! 4 4
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Panel Report.indd 44
2020/11/19 15:43
Panel Report | WINE
This month we explore wines with the FEELGOOD FACTOR, wines that MAKE IT ALL WORTHWHILE as we LOOK BACK on the year that is almost over. BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM
S
un, more sun and lots of fun — it’s our glorious South African summer with the great outdoors calling us. Yay! It has to be the best time of the year with summer in full swing and the holidays looming. Anticipation is everything. We wine lovers move with the seasons. Our thoughts have already turned to white wines, or better still, to bubbly. Who wants those rich reds in this heat? (see p.47) Yes, we know some die-hards do, and we’ll leave them to it, but right now we’re craving our zesty, flavour-filled whites. As we all know, the best way to start is always with a glass of bubbly.
MCC
If ever there’s a wine guaranteed to put a smile on our faces, this is it. Is it something intrinsic in the wine, or is it due to all the skilful marketing? It’s moot, but no matter, we’ll just cheerfully chug it down. The big divide with MCC is between Non-Vintage and Vintage with the rosé’s being almost a separate class of fun and frivolous wines. “These non-vintages are mostly well made, but not very exciting,” Winnie. “A bit commercial, seem to be made for a specific price point — less stringent selection of grapes, less time on the lees.” muses Irina. “Astonishing freshness even though some obvious age,” from Christine. Yes’es all round, so there’s a message – keep those non-vintage wines for a year or three and you’ll be surprised by their transformation. “They’re not overly fruity like the rosés, and they fitted together so well, so it shows the need for the blend,” Christine. So what of the rosés? We agree that almost all are made in a light, fruity style,
nothing challenging or thoughtprovoking, intended for fun. You could go the traditional route and drink them from your girlfriend’s stiletto’s, but that seems like a good way to mess up a good wine. But, oh what fun, and it may yield some unexpected rewards, too… We move on to Vintage styles, lots of good, and no bad or ugly. Greg is quick, eyes shining, “The good are absolutely stunning.” Claude is there, too, “”I am surprised by the freshness especially in the older wines, but there are some very one-dimensional wines here, too.” There are also some oxidized wines, “I think this is the old cork problem again, these are layered corks, more problems,” from Irina. Winnie has the last word, “I love the older wines, those that show yeast autolysis and bottle age; they are so beautiful.” MCC is a growing class of wine and attracting more and more producers. It is highly technical so those with years of experience, hard-earned experience, tend to show much better. There are, however, some new and exciting entrants into the field so it’s worth experimenting. But back to the feel-good factor – why wait for the holidays to drink bubbly? Always keep a bottle handy in the fridge, you never know when you need to feel good! And while we’re talking wines that make us feel good let’s dive straight into our lovely Chenins.
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL MCC WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Graham Beck Blanc de Blanc 2016 ALSO LIKED: Spier MCC 2017, Genevieve Blanc de Blanc MCC 2016, Lórmarins Blanc de Blanc 2013, KWV Laborie Blanc de Blanc 2014 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Anura MCC Brut 2014, Bellevue Chardonnay Pinot Noir MCC 2015, Boschendal Brut Rosé NV, Canto Chardonnay MCC 2016, Canto Pinot Chardonnay MCC 2018, Canto Pinot Noir MCC 2017, DeMorgenzon Chenin Blanc MCC NV, De Wet Iridescent 2016, Graham Beck Pinot Noir Rosé 2015, Ken Forrester Sparklehorse 2017, Klein Constantia Brut MCC 2016, Kleine Zalze Brute Rosé NV, Knorehoek MCC 2015, La Motte MCC 2017, LÁvenir MCC Brut 2017, Lord’s Wine Brut Rosé NV, SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Panel Report.indd 45
4 5
2020/11/20 11:11
WINE | Panel Report
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL Môreson Miss Molly Petite Rosé NV Mulderbosch Brut MCC 2015, Nitida Grande Matriarch 2016, Paul René Brut 2016, Saronsberg Blanc de Blanc MCC 2017, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2014, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2015, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2018, Stellenbosch Hills Anna Christina 2018, Van Loveren Christina MCC NV, Villiera Tradition Brut NV, Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut Entheos NV, Wolfkloof Kannemeyer 2013
CHENIN BLANC
Our panel – to a man (and woman!), all confess their go-to white is Chenin. With its incredible versatility, somehow there is always a Chenin just right for any occasion. Fun wine? No problem, loads of Chenin. Hard-up? Grab a Chenin. Want something posh? Get the latest oaked Chenin. And if you’re craving something sweet, then remember Chenin does it better than anything else. The panel is not without gripes, however. “Half of these are co-op style and the other half is OK,” from Winnie. “I kept writing ‘Dry White’, grumbles Clive. Dave is “underwhelmed.” Christine reaches for the positives: “When the grapes are truly ripe and the wines are good, there is such a variety of style, they really can be terrific.” We decide that there are two problems: firstly, grapes are often not allowed to ripen fully, and secondly, the old problem of high yields seems to be returning. The question of unripe grapes is a tricky one. Important overseas markets are demanding wines with lower alcohols so grapes are harvested earlier before they are fully ripe. So Catch-22. Some growers are working very hard to solve this with special pruning methods, careful canopy management and selection of bunches to get real flavour into less-ripe grapes. The second problem is considerably older – about three hundred years old in fact – every sensible farmer wants as 4 6
much money from each hectare as he can get, so the more grapes the better. The trouble is the higher the yield, the less flavour. Think of it this way --- the leaves (the manufacturer or factory of sugars and flavours) have a certain production capacity and if that capacity reaches say,16 bunches, rather than 8 bunches, the flavour will be reduced by half. We then look at the wooded Chenins and again we have ups and downs. Winnie goes first, “In the past these were often overoaked, but now that there’s less money, there’s less oaking and balance is better.” Christine: “Generally these showed better, they had a good profile.” “They’ve used a far higher quality of Chenin to start with,” from Irina. At another tasting there are gripes. Christine: “Chenin lends itself to being voluptuous, but it needs to be ripe.” There’s that question of unripe grapes again. Greg adds, “Let it ripen properly and it’ll be OK because Chenin has the natural acidity.” Irina wraps up, “”Can’t understand why anyone goes to the expense of oaking a low alcohol wine. It’s daft”. “They need batonnage to enrich them,” from Claude. “And lees contact,” from Clive.
CHENIN BLANC WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Leipzig Chenin Blanc 2019 ALSO LIKED: DeMeye Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2019, Perdeberg Classic Chenin Blanc 2020, Kleine Zalze Cellar Sel. Chenin Blanc 2020, De Wet Chenin Blanc 2020 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Alvi’s Drift Signature Chenin Blanc 2020, Avondale Anima Chenin Blanc 2017, Beaumont Chenin Blanc 2020, Bellevue Chenin Blanc 2020, Bosman Generation 8 Chenin Blanc 2019, De Trafford Chenin Blanc 2018, Diemersfontein Chenin Blanc 2020, De Liefde Chenin Blanc 2020, Leeuwenkuil Reserve White 2019, Roois Mooiplaas Chenin Blanc 2020, Sesfikile Chenin Blanc Rousanne 2019, Stellenrust Chenin Blanc 2020, Stofberg Intrepid Chenin Blanc 2019, Stofberg Solitude Chenin Blanc 2019, Truter Taste Chenin Blanc 2020
Lots of sound advice, lots of lovely Chenin. You choose, Chenin has it all.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Panel Report.indd 46
2020/11/19 15:49
Panel Report | WINE
N
ow, onto those reds. Yes, we know these are not the first wines that come to mind with warmer weather but we feel it’s only fair to include these for those who still love a good red come summer. Whether they’re classic Cabs, spicy Shiraz or fragrant muscadels, apart from being delicious, seem to have another less obvious characteristic – they induce a special thoughtfulness, some introspection, too, as we ponder the meaningful questions about life. With a glass of red at hand one is more likely to have a Big Think. We’re not talking here about the rare insights one gets after about fifteen glasses of old brown sherry, but rather the gentle pondering about how one’s children are growing up, how to deal with growing older, or of the impact of illness – the big questions. And reds do that so well.
I LIKE THESE, they’re so easy you can DRINK THEM WITHOUT having to TALK ABOUT THEM
Panel Report.indd 47
SHIRAZ It’s no secret that this is a panel favourite – we love it because it delivers, time after time. But that means it carries heavy baggage; we expect a lot from it and if it disappoints it feels like a betrayal. Shiraz should be generous, smooth and creamy with loads of darklyrich flavour, either meaty and savoury, or crammed with ripe dark cherries and black plums. Well-known as a variety that can withstand heat, it is a favourite of winemakers in the warmer areas of South Africa, Australia and France. In recent years there has been interest in growing Shiraz in cooler areas such as Elgin and the wines are markedly different, showing a lighter texture with clean-cut, red-berried fruits and excellent purity of fruit. As usual our picky panel had a lot to say. “I like the drinkability, no tough tannins, these are joyful and great to drink,” from Winnie. “It’s all about mouthfeel, they should be smooth and luscious, and when I find them I score them highly,” says Clive, then adds quickly, “and savoury, meaty and liquorice, I love that.” “I like them spicy,” mutters Greg. “The winemakers have got the tannins right and there’s a whole spectrum of flavours here — wild berries, red berries, black fruits and no overoaking,” Christine. “I like these, they’re so easy you can drink them without having to talk about them,” from ever-cheerful Dave. So what we see are a lot of charming, easy to drink wines, but there’s another side to this coin. “Lack of concentration, lack of varietal character, very commercial wines,”
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL CHARDONNAY WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Journey’s End Haystack Chardonnay 2017 ALSO LIKED: Bon Courage Prestige Cuveé Chardonnay 2017, Tierhoek Chardonnay 2017, Savanha Winemaker’s Selection Chardonnay 2017, Glen Carlou Chardonnay 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Almenkerk Charonnay 2016, Anthonij Rupert Protea Chardonnay 2018, Cape of Good Hope Serruria Chardonnay 2016, Creation Chardonnay 2017, Creation Reserve Chardonnay 2017, De Wetshof Bateleur Chardonnay 2016, De Wetshof Bon Vallon Chardonnay 2017, De Wetshof Finesse Chardonnay 2017, De Wetshof The Site Chardonnay 2015, De Wetshof Limestone Hill Chardonnay 2017, Glen Carlou Unwooded Chardonnay 2017, La Capra Chardonnay 2017, MAN Family Padstal Chardonnay 2017, Rhino Run Chardonnay 2016, Waterford Estate Chardonnay 2016
DRY WHITE BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Miss Molly Manor Born 2014 ALSO LIKED: Nitida Coronata 2015, Under Oaks Three Twenty 2015, Fairview Goats do Roam White 2017, Revenant White 2017 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Ashton Winery Satynwit 2017, Balance Chenin Blanc / Colombar 2018, Bon Courage Estate White Blend 2017, Bosman Adama White 2016, Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Caroline 2015, Cavalli Cremello 2015, De Krans Tritonia White 2016, Haut Espoir Cloudfall 2016, Highlands Road Sine Cera 2014, Kloovenburg Eight Feet 2017, Nederburg Ingenuity White Blend 2016, Org De Rac Die Waghuis Wit 2016, Survivor Offspring Cape White Blend 2017, The Lion Hound White 2017, Van Loveren Blanc de Blanc 2018
2020/11/20 14:26
WINE | Panel Report
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL SHIRAZ
ADVICE TO WINE MAKERS: Drop the coffee flavours from Shiraz, it doesn’t need it, but it works for Pinotage. from Christine at a less impressive tasting. Clearly, there’s a delicate balance between ‘easy to drink’ and just plain boring. Buks has the answer, “If we find a serious Shiraz here we must be prepared to give a high Reserve Club score.” There’s another issue here, too — the very trendy coffee flavours which come from well-charred oak. Winnie: “Sorry to say, burnt oak, burnt leather not for me.” And Greg, “It’s worrying to see this coffee thing here, it’s not from the grape, and I accept it as a style for Pinotage, but not for Shiraz.” But for all that we still love Shiraz. Winnie advises, “I always recommend Shiraz to people who like good wines, don’t have cellars and want a bottle to drink tonight – I tell them — go get a Shiraz. UNUSUAL REDS So what exactly are unusual reds? In SA a variety like Grenache remains unsual whereas in the countries of southern Europe it is commonplace.
4 8
Others such as Nero d’Avola, a very new arrival here, and highly regarded in its native Sicily, are rare everywhere. Exact figures for plantings of these wines are not specific because they are so small, but are probably around a total of 20-50 hectares; compare this to over 10,000 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon. Experimental plantings are essential in a vibrant wine industry in order to find new flavours or that big new thing that excites and captures the market. Our SA winemakers are working with a variety of new imports to keep our glasses filled with new aromas and flavours and we owe it to them to give them a try! “It’s good to see Cinsaut coming back – it’s been a pillar of the SA industry,” from young Greg. So true,
WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Landskroon Paul De Villiers Shiraz 2016 ALSO LIKED: Bon Courage Inkara Shiraz 2015, Tokara Shiraz 2016, Spier Signature Shiraz 2017, Spier Savanha Winemaker’s Selection Shiraz 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Anthonij Rupert Protea Shiraz 2017, Boer and Brit L’ Union Shiraz 2013, Cavalli Black Beauty Shiraz 2015, Delheim Shiraz 2015, Glenwood Grand Duc Shiraz 2015, Haskell Aeon Shiraz 2013, Haskell Dombeya Boulder Road Shiraz 2014, Haskell Hades Shiraz 2014, Haskell Hades Shiraz 2015, Haskell Pillars Shiraz 2013, Haut Espoir Shiraz 2011, Nuina Second Post Shiraz 2016, Waterford Kevin Arnold Shiraz 2014, Waterford Pecan Stream Pebble Hill Shiraz 2014, Wilderkrans Barrel Select Reserve Shiraz 2015
CABERNET SAUVIGNON WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Altydgedacht Barbera 2015 ALSO LIKED: Neethlingshof Estate Malbec 2017, Kranskop Tannat 2016, Fairview La Capra Malbec 2016, Boplaas Tinta Barocca 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Boplaas Tinta Chocolat 2016, Fairview Spice Route Grenache 2016, Fryer’s Cove Pinot Noir 2015, Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Cinsaut 2016, Landskroon Cinsaut 2016, Morgenhof Vintage Select Malbec 2014, Neil Ellis Groenekloof Cinsaut 2015, Paul Wallace Black Dog Malbec 2016, Piekenierskloof Cinsaut 2016, Rietvallei ‘Dark Cin’ Cinsaut 2016, Rietvallei JMB Cabernet Franc 2014, Shannon Rockview Ridge Pinot Noir 2016, StarkeConde Petite Sirah 2016, Virgin Earth Pinot Noir 2013, Waverley Grenache 2017
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Panel Report.indd 48
2020/11/19 15:50
Panel Report | WINE
ONCE AGAIN, the Cab Francs shone – QUALITY will ALWAYS show
the older members of the panel have tasted oceans of fine Cinsaut over the years, only to see the beautiful old vines slowly be pulled up and replaced all too often by indifferent Merlot. Now it’s changing and young wine makers are re-discovering Cinsaut, but there’s a long wait ahead until we get wine from magnificent low-bearing old vines.
“At last we’re seeing some nice varietal character coming through from Cinsaut now, those young vines really didn’t deliver,” from Irina. “Very solid scores from me,” Clive. “The Pinot Noirs are so ordinary,” grumbles Clive (he would, wouldn’t he, he makes fine Pinot!) “It’s a pity, because it should be special, but we’re not seeing
the best,” agrees Irina. “I like the Grenache – it crosses my path regularly,” says Dave. We all agree that we like the Nero d’Avola, “If this is anything to go by, it’ll do well here, but we need to see more of them, it’s the only way we’ll be able to evaluate the variety,” from Irina. “Once again, the Cab Francs shone – quality will always show,” from Christine. So when the results are announced, it’s Cab Franc all the way! ADVICE TO CONSUMERS: Give these a try, reward the hard work of growers and wine makers and you may just find a big new favourite red!
To purchase these wines and more, head to our website Connoisseur ad_Aug '20_FA.pdf
1
WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA 8/18/20 6:49 PM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
Panel Report.indd 49
2020/11/19 15:58
ADVERTORIAL | Saxenburg Wines
Creating Moments With S AX E N B U R G WIN E S
A
t Saxenburg, we believe that life is all about creating memorable moments, and a glass or bottle of fine wine perfectly pairs with these valuable memories. “A family winery dedicated to producing fine wines of consistent quality and creating delightful moments.” A SYRAH SUCCESS STORY “Your wine is only as good as the terroir that you are working with.” Officially announced in 1693, Saxenburg is one of the oldest farms in Stellenbosch. Located in the Polkadraai Hills, Saxenburg is blessed with an exceptional terroir. Adrian Bührer, whose family has been in the wine business for five generations, selected to plant Shiraz as the primary varietal when purchasing the estate in 1989. At the time, it was not seen as a popular or wise decision. However, with his foresight and pioneering spirit, it turned out to be perfect for this specific site and environment in Stellenbosch, and is showcased in the many accolades it has and continues to receive. “We live to share wonderful wines, that create memories for life.”
Saxenburg Wines | ADVERTORIAL
While we produce a variety of whites and reds, the Saxenburg Shiraz Select and Private Collection Syrah are our wines of distinction. WINES OF CONTINUOUS EXCELLENCE Second custodians of the estate after their parents, siblings, Vincent and Fiona Bührer, continue to strive towards success and to only offer the utmost quality. “We are excited to have the opportunity to continue growing, nurturing and improving the quality of Syrah of the Polkadraai area, which our father had the vision to plant 30 years ago. Remaining true to the consistency in the quality of our wines, we are also beginning to replant a variety of vines focusing on the primary Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.” WHERE PASSION TURNS TO WINE Coming from four generations of winemaking, Cellarmaster and winemaker, Dirk van Zyl has learned hands-on from a young age about pouring his passions into the delicate process of winemaking. “As a winemaker, I believe that wine has, more than any other drink, the ability to imbue its consumer with pleasure by a full exploration of sight, smell, taste, touch and to tell a story one that has personality and a sense of place.
And, I am proud to play a sensory part within this journey.” The next time you raise a glass in celebration, we hope our Saxenburg wines play a part in creating that moment. To find out more or to purchase wines call 021 903 6113 or email info@saxenburg.co.za
WWW.SAXENBURG.CO.ZA
WINE TASTINGS | SAFARI SIGHTINGS | CATTLE BARON RESTAURANT | GUEST COTTAGES
Saxenburg Wines FPAT.indd 50
2020/11/19 15:59
CONNOISSEUR’S
CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY
1. False Bay Crystalline Chardonnay 2020 (Price R69.99) A vibrant, fresh and elegant style of Chardonnay. Delicate floral and pear notes, with minerality in abundance. Complex and a beautiful length on the palate, without being fatty. Unoaked and understated, but persistent on the finish. Drink now or cellar for up to 2 years. PAIRING: Creamy pastas, chicken salads and Cape Malay curry.
2. False Bay Whole Bunch Cinsault Mourvédre 2020 (Price R69) An elegant light salmon colour wine. A freshness on the nose from vibrant red berries and pomegranate, enhanced by soft floral notes. The Mourvèdre component brings structure and persistence to the palate. Drink now or cellar for up to 2 years. PAIRING: Thai red curry, tuna steak, salmon sashimi or shellfish.
3. False Bay Old School Syrah 2019 (Price R69.99) Prominent dark fruit notes on the nose, complemented by a variety of spiced aromatics - particularly black and white pepper. The palate shows fresh acidity and great structure, whilst developing into a spicier character and ending with wellbalanced, ripe tannins. Drink now or cellar for 3-4 years. PAIRING: Pepperoni pizza or red meats.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Ed_s Choice-2.indd 51
5 1
2020/11/20 09:47
WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
4. Stellekaya Merlot 2018 (Price R146) Deep crimson in colour. This wine showcases attractive dark berry fruit with savoury and earthy notes. Elegant with juicy soft tannins and good acidity. Drink in 6-8 years. PAIRING: This wine pairs well with beef Carpaccio, drizzled with homemade mayonnaise, topped with rocket and Parmesan shavings.
7. Wildeberg Red 2019 (Price R495) Predominantly Syrah that’s been judiciously blended with a little Cabernet Franc. Aged in French oak for 12 months means the palate has an particularly impactful feel. Drink now or cellar for 3-5 years.
PAIRING: Ideal with roast leg of lamb, duck and grilled vegetables.
10. Flagstone Dark Horse Shiraz 2016 (Price R279) Complex combination of dark fruits, white pepper, dark chocolate and a hint of mint supported by subtle spicy undertones. Big and round palate with silky smooth tannins. Rich, ripe fruit on the back palate combined with a well-balanced acidity. Drink now. PAIRING: Kudu fillet with couscous and a red wine reduction.
5. Stellekaya Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Price R189) This wine shows earthy and minty notes with enticing flavours of dark fruit, tobacco and chocolate. The palate is inviting and balanced with a backbone of acidity and an integrated tannin structure. Drink in 8-10 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with slow-roasted leg of lamb, beef short ribs or porcini mushroom risotto.
8. Trizanne Reserve Syrah 2018 (Price R272) Wild strawberries, cranberries, hints of pomegranate and crushed rose petals all neatly integrated with the oak. A medium-bodied palate with crisp acidity, a lovely saline/spicy thread throughout that lends energy and tension towards the precise and detailed finish. Cellar for 5-8 years. PAIRING: Grilled lamb with roast vegetables.
11. Boland One Formation Pinotage Shiraz Grenache 2017 (Price R95) Upfront dark, ripe fruit, particularly of blackcurrant and plums, juicy and approachable with some savouriness – all harmonising with a smooth, lingering taste. Drink now through to 2024. PAIRING: Grilled beef rump or braised pork.
6. African Pride Forager White 2019 (Price R85) Ripe tropical fruit, peach and apricot flavours from Chenin Blanc with fresh aromas of pear, lime and green apple from the Grenache Blanc. Rounded by very subtle oak. Long and persistent finish. Drink now or cellar up to 2 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with seafood and complements fragrant, rich dishes like Moroccan lamb tagine or wild mushroom risotto.
9. Rainbow’s End Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Price R195) Dark black in appearance. A balanced and structured Cab. A mix of New World (fruit driven cassis and blackcurrant), as well as Old World style notes with earthy, bramble, meaty and wet soil. Silky smooth tannins with a lingering dark chocolate aftertaste. Cellar for up to 6 years. PAIRING: Beef, pork, lamb or poultry.
12. Withington Malbec 2019 (Price R120) An easy-drinking, yet elegant wine with fabulous juicy red-berry flavours that can only come from well nutured sun-ripened grapes, gently crushed, slowly fermented and quietly matured. A sappy wine with the oak in delicate support with its brown spice and vanilla. Drink now. PAIRING: Biltong, chocolate or ravioli with Aubergine Parmiggiana filling.
Wild strawberries, cranberries, hints of pomegranate and crushed rose petals 5 2
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Ed_s Choice-2.indd 52
2020/11/20 14:28
Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
13. Kranskop Merlot 2017 (Price R120) Mid to deep ruby; shy-ish, but prune, blackberry and dark choc slowly emerge. Full-bodied and properly dry with a meaty, biltong-like flavour, crushed coriander and dusty tannins in nice firm finish. Drink now or cellar until 2024. PAIRING: Hearty lamb moussaka, beef shin stew with butter beans or oxtail casserole slow-cooked in red wine.
16. Rainbow’s End Cabernet Franc 2017 (Price R270) This is a smooth easy drinking wine with an intense dark purple colour. Oak perfume with blackberry and hazelnut on the nose. Broad smooth tannins. A ripe and succulent wine. Drink now or cellar for up to 8 years. PAIRING: The soft earthy notes of this wine will match a mushroom tortellini with rosemary butter.
19. Bushmanspad Cabernet Franc 2016 (Price R179) True varietal character with ripe, red cherry flavours, spice and creamy brown chocolate and light black pepper. Delicate mid-palate with a strong but elegant oaky aftertaste which carries the red cherry flavours beautifully. Drink in 8-10 years. PAIRING: Cold roast beef on walnut bread or Porterhouse steak with a dab of Dijon.
14. Saxenburg Guinea Fowl Red 2017 (Price R78) A classical South African, Bordeaux styled blend. It is medium-bodied and approachable, but with beautiful concentration and length. Enticing notes of dark cherries, plums and spice on the nose with soft tannins on the palate. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Game, full-flavoured red meat dishes as well as pasta and pizza.
17. Saronsberg Earth in Motion 2020 (Price R78) Prominent tropical aromas with the Sauvignon Blanc contributing delicate gooseberry, exotic fruit and a hint of minerality. The Chenin Blanc provides white pear, litchi and floral notes. It is a clean, fresh wine with ample body, a succulent fruit core and generous aftertaste. Drink now or in 1-3 years. PAIRING: On its own or with seafood, white meat, mild cheeses and salads.
20. Rhebokskloof Chenin Blanc 2019 (Price R85) Luscious and aromatic with an abundance of fresh and juicy tropical fruit. Nicely textured with a long, crisp finish. A wine for any and every occasion. Cellar for 3-4 years. PAIRING: Light salads, any seafood, light pasta dishes or chicken.
15. Silver Leaf Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (Price R79.99) Tropical flavours of litchi, melon and gooseberry dominant on the nose. Crisp acidity, and long mouthfeel. Drink now. PAIRING: Enjoy with seafood like tempura prawns and line fish.
18. Saronsberg Seismic 2017 (Price R159) Dark colour with flavours of cassis, red berry and integrated oak. The tannin is firm and well-balanced with a fullbodied, elegant finish. Cellar for 6-12 years. PAIRING: Paired with a wide variety of dishes whether from your own grill or designer cuisine in the kitchen.
21. Laibach Merlot 2017 (Price R155) This Merlot has a deep dark colour. Good nose with some bitter chocolate and hints of blackberries. Mediumbodied with good tannin structure to support an array of flavours. The wine has got a good grip and freshness with good complexity and depth. Drink now or in 3-5 years. PAIRING: Serve with red meat and pasta dishes.
Delicate gooseberry, exotic fruit and a hint of minerality SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Ed_s Choice-2.indd 53
5 3
2020/11/20 09:47
WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
22. Doolhof Single Vineyard Merlot 2017 (Price R299) Aromas of blackberries, plums and cassis with hints of vanilla. Medium-bodied and complex with a juicy mouthfeel. The palate is layered with plush fruit, hints of chocolate. Silky smooth tannins that lead to a long and smooth finish. Cellar up to 2027. PAIRING: Grilled T-bone with herbed butter, Osso Bucco or a dark chocolate flourless cake.
25. Allée Bleue Blue Owl Pinotage 2019 (Price R89.99) Abundant strawberry and ripe cherry flavours on the nose. A slight hint of chocolate, liquorice and coffee gives added complexity. The palate is smooth and soft with beautiful berry fruit that lingers. Elegant tannin structure rounds off this accessible wine. Drink now up until 2021. PAIRING: Lamb roast with baby vegetables or fresh pasta. Or enjoy it on its own.
28. DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2017 (Price R245) The nose shows notes of concentrated orange and yellow stone fruits, with a hint of spice, citrus and blossoms. The palate is full-bodied, textured and nuanced with a lingering aftertaste. Drink now. PAIRING: Lemon roasted chicken with pancetta, thyme and garlic, or vegetarian lasagne - served with a rocket, balsamic and Parmesan salad.
23. Hilton The Dalmation Syrah 2017 (Price R629) Dark ruby in colour, a subtle nose of dark fruits with a whiff of violets. Luscious blackberry notes and a hint of spice on the palate supported by subtle French oak integration – well rounded, finely balanced, smooth tannin structure and a long finish. Drink between 2022-2028. PAIRING: Beef Bourguignon Pie.
26. Lomond Romans Bay 1895 2019 (Price R95) Blend of Shiraz 67%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% and Merlot 13%. Complexed flavours of red fruit, black cherries and hints of spice welcomes the nose. Good complexity wine with well-balanced structure. Soft and juicy tannins make this a very enjoyable wine. Drink now. PAIRING: Beef brisket, grilled lamb or a beef stew.
29. Lomond SSV 2020 (Price R135) A perfect summer wine for any occasion. Light and vibrant with a subtle mid palate complexity from the Semillon and Viognier to provide intrigue from one glass to the next. Drink now. PAIRING: Truffled cauliflower fritters, edamame beans, asparagus, avo pulp, crispy shallots and yuzu splash.
24. Nitida Grande Matriarch MCC 2016 (Price R239) A grand meet-cute. Strawberry syrup and ruby grapefruit waltz hand-in-hand through a red fruit grove. Rose petals and flakes of potpourri shimmer in shades of rose gold. 100% Pinot Noir. Drink now. PAIRING: Slivers of ostrich carpaccio.
27. Bosman Generation Merlot 2019 (Price R75) A true classic: medium-bodied with an appealing bouquet of ripe red cherries and mulberry fruit, following through with hints of earthiness and plums on the palate. Drink now. PAIRING: Tomato-based dishes, roast chicken and creamy mushroom steak or stews.
30. Glenwood Merlot 2019 (Price R165) Medium-bodied wine with layers of mint, chocolate, plum and mulberry. Full and elegant, with a long conclusion. Drink now. PAIRING: Duck Caeser salad, beef, lamb or veal dishes.
Concentrated orange and yellow stone fruits, with a hint of spice, citrus and blossoms 5 4
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Ed_s Choice-2.indd 54
2020/11/20 14:28
Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
31. Anura Pinotage 2017 (Price R145) An elegant and aromatic nose, complemented by subtle, juicy fruit. A velvety palate with prominent notes of black and red berries, featuring spicy undertones of cinnamon. Shows great balance between oak and fruit flavour with a good tannin structure finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Grilled red meats and venison, rich tomato-based pasta sauces, full flavoured mature cheeses and charcuterie.
32. Arendskloof Tannat 2016 (Price R151) Packed with rich, ripe plum, prune and berry fruit. Dark chocolate and an earthy tone. Firm, ripe, soft tannins and a fruity mouth. Well-balanced oak with a long finish and good ageing potential. Drink now. PAIRING: Poultry, lamb or potjie dishes.
33. Eagles’ Cliff Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (Price R71) A delicious medium-bodied wine with crisp and tropical fruit flavours. A zesty palate and fresh finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Chicken salad, grilled fish or on its own.
Did you know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za
Re, tecto coribus dolor asperia qui aut as ab ius et vel SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Ed_s Choice-2.indd 55
5 5
2020/11/20 11:42
M
Dave Biggs remembers his farmer father’s first and only attempt at making wine
y grandparents arrived on what is now the family farm a century ago. It was a tough time for stock farmers and they trekked across the drought-stricken Karoo on foot and donkey cart, herding their small flock of sheep, goats and cows ahead of them. When they arrived at their new home they found a row of gnarled and unpruned grapevines planted among the grey Karoo scrub, table grapes of the 5 6
Backpage.indd 56
variety called Crystal. They decided to call the farm “Grapevale.” Those vines have survived for generations, but seldom provided anything more useful than shade and occasionally food for starlings. Usually the crop is too small even to bother about harvesting. One year—long ago —good summer rains fell and to everybody’s astonishment, a generous crop of sweet, fat grapes appeared on the vines.
Illustration by: Chloé Damstra
My Father THE WINEMAKER
Farmers are ever ready to take advantage of Nature’s bounty and my father (who never drank wine) said: “Let’s make wine this year.” His ignorance of the art of winemaking was total but his confidence was boundless. “What can be difficult about making wine?” he said. “Wine is just vrot grape juice.” The farm had recently switched from generator-produced electricity to the stuff sold by Eskom, so there were several large glass storage batteries lying around unused. These were cleaned and pressed into service. As they were open-topped we made plywood lids for them and sealed them with a powerful and pungent contact adhesive called Genkem. A few handfuls of yeast from granny’s kitchen were added to the juice, the plywood lids were glued on and the wine was left to vrot in its own good time. After a couple of weeks, it was decanted into bottles and stored in the loft. From time to time a bottle would be cautiously opened and tasted. Frankly, it was unspeakably dreadful and tasted and smelled only of contact adhesive. It was nicknamed “Genkem Wine” and left strictly alone. Eventually, my father passed away and somebody emptied the Genkem wine down the drain. Nobody minded. Some 10 years later I was looking for something in one of the farm storerooms when I came across two surviving bottles of that Genkem Wine. Out of curiosity I opened one, poured a tentative glass and took a tip. It was delicious! It had turned a rich amber colour and was honey-sweet. All traces of contact adhesive had vanished. Wise winemakers will tell you they can use all the latest technology and skill they have, but there’s always a small element of magic that turns a good wine into a great one. That Genkem wine was a unique blend of zero percent skill and 100 percent magic. I shall not experience its equal again.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
2020/11/19 16:01
WORLD CLASS ESTATE
PRODUCING AWARD WINNING WINES AND OLIVE OILS
RECENT AWARDS: Two Gold medals at the SA Olive Oil Awards, awarded for our Morgenster Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Don Carlo Extra Virgin Olive Oil | Morgenster Extra Virgin Olive Oil named under the ABSA Top 10 Olive Oils in South Africa | Morgenster Extra Virgin Olive Oil received a score of 99% by the authoritative International guide FLOS OLEI 2021 | Lourens River Valley 2013: Trophy for Best Bordeaux blend, Michelangelo International Wine & Spirits Awards | Morgenster Estate Reserve 2013: Double Gold medal, Michelangelo International Wine & Spirits Award | Lourens River Valley 2014: Riedel Trophy for Best Bordeaux Blend, Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show.
Ending 2020 on a high, Morgenster has recently been awarded with some of the industry’s most prestigious awards for olive oil and wine. Family-owned and family-run, Morgenster Estate has a long history dating back 300 years. Situated near the foothills of the Helderberg Mountain in Somerset West, we produce award-winning Bordeaux and Italian styled wines and extra virgin olive oil. Visit our beautiful estate, restaurant, and shop to discover all that we have to offer. www.morgenster.co.za
Morgenster Advertorial-Final.indd 8
2020/11/19 11:28
Connoisseur_ad_FA2.pdf
1
11/9/20
2:40 PM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
FLagstone-FP.indd 1
2020/11/19 11:30