Indonesia Expat - issue 287 by Indonesia Expat

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INDONESIA'S LARGEST EXPATRIATE READERSHIP

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE Massimo Sacco is a Chef Magician Must-do Things When in Bali Juggling Life and Staying Fit in Bali …and many more

IMAGE BY WAHYU PRATAMA (UNSPLASH)

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

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What draws you to Indonesia? Is the natural beauty? The business prospects? The culture? The people? Indonesia has become a favoured destination for expats to relocate to and for others to spend their holidays. It’s always nice for a foreign visitor to have somewhat of a guide when they visit a new city and/or country. With the digitised era we are currently embracing, with a simple touch of our fingers on our gadgets and the accessibility of the internet, gaining information has no boundaries. Indonesia Expat caters to the livelihoods of expats living in and travelling to Indonesia. What better way to expand the focus on expats spending their time in Indonesia, you might think? The Expat Life issue is it! Stories from expats calling Indonesia their homes, what to expect whilst in the country, and many more topics can be found for an updated guide to living in Indonesia as an expat. Don’t forget, we’re working on more digital content with our YouTube channel, Indonesia Expat. This includes our new series entitled “Welcome to Indonesia: The Series”, where we cover insights into food, leisure, community, travel, tips, guides, and plenty more. Stay tuned by subscribing to our channel!

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06 BUSINESS PROFILE Massimo Sacco is a Chef Magician

08 OBSERVATION Back to Bali

10 ACTIVITIES Must-do Things When in Bali: Balinese Traditional Version

12 MEET THE EXPAT Dive into Bunaken with Ed Regeer and Shu Ming Cheung

14 REVIEW Book Review: The Bard, the Bad and the Ugly

16 TRAVEL Bays and Balinese air in Sumatra

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FITNESS Juggling Life and Staying Fit in Bali

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22 INSIGHT Indonesia’s Golden Age: The Tiger is Awake

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business profile

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

Massimo Sacco is a Chef Magician some Indonesian food too — to keep the tradition, I involved my team to share recipes from their villages.

How has opening a business in Indonesia been as an expat? There are difficulties like anywhere in the world but I feel grateful to have a very nice time that can help during any difficulties.

The restaurant has been running for over two decades. Complete this sentence: Dining at Massimo Italian Restaurant is special because… We have a wonderful team that makes you feel at home. We do have specialities from my hometown, Lecce on the southeast coast of Italy, and to try to give specialities where you either go to Lecce or Massimo in Bali. We cook every meal fresh from the scratch table by table, guest by guest, for every single order.

Why are giving love for the product, taking your time, and being committed to quality important to you? Cooking is a big responsibility. We are what we eat and I eat at my home restaurant every day. I love food and service in all its aspects, and giving the best of myself makes me feel good.

The gelato is a customer favourite. Why is that?

Are there any expansion plans in store? We do sell our gelato to other shops but one restaurant is more than enough as I like to give the best of myself to our customers and many working hours a day are needed. I’ve had several offers to open other stores but I always politely decline.

Hi, Massimo! We’d like to know more about you. Please introduce yourself.

Massimo, what’s next for you and your company?

Buongiorno. I am Massimo Sacco, chef and owner of Massimo in Sanur, Bali. I arrived in Indonesia in 1996 to produce Italian gelato and homemade pasta. When I arrived in 1996, the first challenge was to build my own pizza oven because none was available at that time. I grew up in a family of chefs and I am the third generation. I’ve loved cooking since I was a little boy and, at the same time, grew my hobby for magic. I’m a Chef Magician or a Magic Chef.

To keep our large family team and keep traditions as we reflect in everything we do.

Do you have anything to say for expats seeking to move to Bali? I did travel around the world before coming to Bali. The approach should be always of respect for the people and the country that welcomes us.

How can our readers get in touch with you?

Share with us your thoughts on expat life in Bali and the reason behind your move.

I am always available and my phone number is on any social media – Instagram @ massimo_theoriginalsince1996. I still like to answer personally to anyone as I love people as much as I love food and magic. We do have a stage in the restaurant and very often I do perform magic but never schedule the show!

Since I first arrived in Bali, my focus has been on my passion for the kitchen and teaching my skills to my team. I have a great team and everyone is like family to me. We do have a unique boundary and have always been comfortable like at home.

Massimo offers traditional Italian cooking with most of the recipes coming from my family or the tradition of my hometown. I love tradition and every recipe is carefully done according to tradition. We do have

I do love anything! If there is any Italian dish that I don’t like then I simply won’t do it. I can tell you what the guests’ favourites are; homemade pasta like tagliatelle, tortellini, ravioli, homemade cheese daily fresh mozzarella and burrata, slow natural leavening pizza, and the traditional Italian gelato.

Making gelato is my first love as I started working at the age of 14 in the best gelato shop in my hometown. I produce gelato according to the Italian tradition by using only milk, cream, sugar, imported nuts and biscuits, and local fruits. Some guests ask why my gelato melts quickly; we do not use any additional fat from other sources other than milk and cream, so absolutely no use of hydrogenated coconut oil and no additives.

assimo Italian Restaurant has been a crowd favourite for both expats and Indonesians whenever in Bali. We chatted with its owner, Massimo Sacco, to get to know the Italian restaurant and the man in the kitchen better. He shares his love of food, people, and magic because after all, he’s a magician who can captivate you at his restaurant anytime.

Tell us about Massimo Italian Restaurant; the inspiration, concept, etc.

What are your personal favourites from your restaurant?

I love food and service in all its aspects, and giving the best of myself makes me feel good.

Thank you, Massimo! Stay healthy and happy.

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

observation

BACK TO BALI BY SKYE LAPHROAIG

IMAGE BY ARTEM BELIAIKIN (UNSPLASH)

For two solid years during the COVID-19 pandemic, Bali was closed to the world, causing many of us to leave and go home to our countries of origin.

travelled back to the UK from Bali as it closed down to tourists — here is what it was like to be back in England during the pandemic and what it feels like to revisit Bali now. Bali is joyfully embracing visitors once again, but for a difficult two years, the world's favourite holiday island was in tatters due to the pandemic. In 2019, I was having a detox treatment at our resort— the glorious, facial, and famously deep Balinese massage was one reason why I was here in Bali. And when my husband told me we should leave Bali right now or get stuck here during the lockdown, it felt like we had no choice but to return back home to the UK. “Many tourism businesses in the once vibrant tourist centres of Kuta, Seminyak, and Nusa Dua are gone,” he told me. “Because Bali is highly dependent on tourism, dozens of bars, restaurants, nightclubs, and villas are empty or abandoned as a result of COVID's impact.” We left just in time. International f lights to and from Bali were closed due to the pandemic from April 2020, and the island was hit hard during our absence. Tourism usually accounts for 60 percent of Bali’s economy, and the closure costs thousands of workers their jobs.

Life back in England was tough too. It was hard to believe that my own country had imposed the most stringent and long-lasting pandemic restrictions in Europe, and the vast majority of Brits complained that they weren’t strict enough!

More regional suppression followed until we Brits were allowed to celebrate a single Christmas day! But once again, a complex “tier system” was implemented in the autumn, which attempted to link infection rates to levels of restriction.

The state’s response to the virus was a catastrophe for Britain. There was a loss of years of education for children. Sovereign debt soared, and small businesses were destroyed. We could see that mental health also declined, and domestic abuse escalated.

And then, in early January 2021 — another lockdown began for almost four months. It was soul-destroying. To make matters worse, most English police forces established online forms for reporting lockdown breaches, encouraging our citizens to snitch on their neighbours.

The public-health authorities in England implemented three full-scale lockdowns during our stay. In March 2020, the first lockdown began with the intention of “f lattening the curve” of hospitalisations and preventing overburdening of the health care system. During the long summer, we saw really strong measures in some areas.

It has been an extremely hard couple of years for the many who rely on tourism to feed their families–although their smiles would lead you to believe otherwise.

It took only three days for them to receive “hundreds” of public reports about neighbours who had gone out for a run twice in one day, and UK Prime Minister Johnson came up with an idea for local councils to hire Citizen Marshals to harass non-compliant citizens. Needless to say, we were eagerly awaiting news from the government allowing us to leave. Health Minister Sajid Javid finally eased lockdown rules in England on 19th July 2021. So, my husband and I researched flight options straight away. Fully vaccinated, and packed, we were already prepared for the green light. After a difficult two-year closure, Bali joyfully embraced foreign visitors once again on 16th February 2022, with the first international passenger f light to our favourite holiday island.

Even with an increase in COVID-19 cases, Indonesia was sticking to its decision to open Bali to foreign tourists, saying the move would boost the national economy and set an example for the rest of the country. Amid an Omicron-driven third wave of infections, we didn't give it a second thought, booking one of the first flights out of the UK. Arriving again after the COVID-19 pandemic, the sweet locals had not lost an ounce of their renowned warmth and loving hospitality during our separation. If anything, they were even more welcoming and enthusiastic about having tourists in their paradise once again. Entering Indonesia, we got a visa on arrival for Rp500,000 and extended our visa once (for a maximum of 30 days) at an immigration office within Indonesia. Returning to my happy place, the island rapidly woke up, and of course, development didn’t halt during COVID. It has been an extremely hard couple of years for the many who rely on tourism to feed their families–although their smiles would lead you to believe otherwise. You will find that masks are still required at times, but in open-air restaurants, and public spaces people have loosened their mask-wearing rules. We are so happy to be back in Bali, it feels like the pandemic is truly in the past.

activities

Must-do Things When in Bali: Balinese Traditional Version BY ANASTASIA MILENA

ali as a world tourist destination is discussed ad infinitum - I’m sure you agree on this. Thousands of tourists come every day to admire this island. What do you do to truly experience being in Bali? Have you ever done or seen something that exists “only in Bali”? Are you the typical person who comes to Bali to party in Canggu or just come and relax on the beach and fill your Instagram feed? Well well, too bad.

Visit Tenganan Pegringsingan Village – Bali’s Ancient Village Tenganan is one of the oldest villages in Bali where you can visit and take a closer look into the old Balinese way of life. As one of the Bali Aga (native Balinese) villages on the island, Tenganan is well-preserved and predates the arrival of the Majapahit Kingdom to Bali. The villagers are descendants of the preMajapahit Kingdom. Only those born in the village are acceptable to live there and considered as the Bali Aga. There are also strict rules about marriage: they must marry those who come from Tenganan Pegringsingan Village as well. For those who marry people from outside the village, that person must leave the village immediately. Most of the villagers work as farmers but some of them are also working as craftsmen. The famous crafts from Tenganan Village are woven bamboo, carvings, and painting made from palm leaves. One of the village’s unique attractions is the ancient, doubleweave ikat cloth produced here called geringsing, which is also the name of this village. This may be quite strange to some, but that's how they keep their original offspring.

An Odalan or temple ceremony usually lasts for three days, but larger ones, which occur every five, 10, 30 or 100 years, can last for 11 days or longer. The gist of what is happening here is that the Balinese are honouring the deities that rule over the temple by giving them a myriad offerings, performances of vocal music, dance, and gamelan music.

Another experience that you should watch at least once in this village is the Pandan War battle, which involves village boys coming of age and engaging in friendly but bloody matches. They arm themselves with bundles of thorny pandan leaves to be “swords”. The battles take place around the village temple anniversary, usually around June and July. Don’t forget to bring your gear because it’s going to be epic!

Following traditions or ceremonies Surely, you have often heard another nickname for Bali that is “island of a thousand temples”, right? Well, this is not without reason; in every corner and place, Bali has many temples which also hold traditional ceremonies which are very exciting to participate in.

Here in Indonesia, we have the slogan “dimana tanah dipijak, disitu langit dijunjung” – sort of when in Bali, do as the Balinese do. As many people know, Bali is rich in culture and its traditions are still very strong. Various traditional events are held literally dozens of times a year! You can party and relax on the beach elsewhere, but while you’re in Bali, why not do something that will last a lifetime? Here, I’ve put together a few things that might be of interest to you to try and probably won’t be anywhere else but Bali! It can definitely be an inspiration for those of you who have never felt the authenticity of this Island of the Gods.

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

Do melukat at least once! Melukat is a self-purification ritual. Balinese Hindus believe in this way, everything bad that is not visible inside you will be destroyed along with the flow of water that washes your body. Melukat aims to cleanse and purify the human body and soul in order to prevent havoc, bad luck, and sickness. Each participant will be given Canang, offerings that usually contain flowers in a woven coconut leaf with incense. The ritual will begin with the priest casting a spell on the God and will continue by immersing our body into the pond. Participants have to take some sips of the water as a symbol of washing away all the bad elements that reside in our body and mind, while at the same time inviting positivity and good things. The end of the ritual, after you clean yourself in a pool, sees you sprinkled with holy water and asked to drink the water three times. Note that some rules apply to perform the ceremony. People on their period or who have just recently gave birth, those who just lost their loved ones, or have experienced tragedies, are prohibited to perform the ceremony as they are considered impure.

Being in the festivities of the ogohogoh festival Ogoh-ogoh is nearly identical to Nyepi Day in Bali. For this one, you must be in Bali in early March. This festival is always held on Pengerupukan Day, which is the day before Nyepi or silent day. Ogoh-ogoh is a huge puppet which is a symbol of negative elements, bad qualities, and evil that surrounds human life. These puppets are made from a bamboo frame covered with paper, but over time most of today's ogoh-ogoh are made with styrofoam as the material produces a smoother, threedimensional shape. The work also takes quite a long time and the consistency of course, to make one ogoh-ogoh takes weeks depending on the level of complexity.

In Bali, there’s literally no single day without a ceremony. It’s an obligation to promote balanced relations among humans, Gods, and nature. Traditional Balinese ceremonies have unique elements that might amaze you, starting from the equipment, the musical accompaniment, and up to the execution which is carried out beautifully. It would be a shame if you go to Bali without having attended or witnessed a local traditional ceremony. Keep in mind that some ceremonies are very sacred to Balinese Hindus so not all of these ceremonies can be followed arbitrarily. Don’t worry, there are still many ceremonies that are free for you to follow and capture, for example: 1. Melasti Melasti is the biggest of the Bali Purification Rituals involving the most Balinese Hindu people. They carry all the God symbols to the sea as well as other holy water resources. The meaning of Melasti ceremony is a selfcleaning process of humans as well as the entire universe with the sacred Hindu rituals. The purpose of the Melasti ceremony is to purify Bhuana Alit (small world – human body) as well as Bhuana Agung (this universe) from bad influences, bad deeds, and bad thoughts. All of the Balinese people will wear the Balinese traditional costume such as a kebaya and kamen for women and the baju safari, kamen and udeng for men, with white colour dominant. The Balinese traditional instrument – gamelan – is sounded during the parade procession with some priests leading among the people. After arriving at the beach, all god symbols are purified based on local rituals. Afterwards, They are carried back to the temple and kept sacred. Each of Balinese Hindu person will go to the temple for worshipping to get prosperity and peace for the entire world. 2. Odalan In Bali, there are over 4,500 temples where ceremonies take place almost every day of the year and Odalan is the celebration of each temple’s anniversary. Temple festivals are held on the anniversary of when the temple was consecrated and usually on a new or full moon.

Trying lawar and sate lilit: Bali’s most popular traditional foods Lawar is an original traditional food from Bali, a mixture or combination of meat, vegetables, and coconuts, which is also rich in herbs and spices from Balinese taste. Sometimes, it can also contain fresh animal blood in it, but feel free to ask for a plate of lawar putih if you don’t want any blood in your plate. Lawar has a delicious and savoury taste, which will make anyone addicted if you try it. Lawar is a typical Balinese food that is often made during ceremonial activities, both traditional and religious. In Bali, lawar is not only consumed, it is also used as offerings in every religious ceremony. Lawar is offered as a form of gratitude for the abundance of natural wealth that God has given. This is because lawar has complete components from both plants and animals as a form of natural wealth itself. Eating lawar will not be complete without sate lilit! They are both usually side by side on a menu. Sate lilit is a popular dish from the island of Bali. The word “lilit” roughly means “wrap around”, so the meat is usually wrapped around the skewers. Traditionally, lemongrass stalks are used as skewers instead of bamboo skewers. Well I personally think using lemongrass stalk as skewers makes sate lilit taste even better, the aromatic lemongrass means that when you grill it, it imparts that great aroma to the meat. To be more practical, most skewers of sate lilit use bamboo because it is easier to get and the price is affordable The choice of meat is also really f lexible. People use minced chicken, fish, pork, beef, duck, etc to make sate lilit. Various spices are then added to the ground meat to add flavour; spices included, but not limited to, grated coconut, onion, garlic, chillies, ginger, turmeric, and lemongrass. After the meat and spices are thoroughly mixed together, the meat mixture is then wrapped around a bamboo stick, usually broad in size, so that the meat won’t easily break apart when cooked. The combination of various flavours create a delicious sensation on your tongue with every bite that you take! If you are in Bali, you have to try this popular Balinese dish at least once, and you’ll find out for yourself why it is so popular on the island! Those are some of the things you can do while in Bali, are there any on your bucket list?

meet the expat

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

Dive into Bunaken with Ed Regeer and Shu Ming Cheung

d Regeer and Shu Ming Cheung have found themselves settling by the exotic seas around Southeast Asia. Nowadays, they can be found in Bunaken, an island located in North Sulawesi that has become their home. These General Managers (GMs) of Bunaken Oasis Dive Resort & Spa share their stories of oceanfaring adventures, managing a resort, as well as their thoughts on small island life.

Hello, Ed and Shu! We'd love to know more about you two. Please introduce yourselves. We are Ed (E) and Shu (S), a couple from The Netherlands. After having corporate careers, we decided to quit our jobs and sell almost all of our belongings and bought ourselves a one-way ticket to Asia. Our journey started in 2010 and soon we became dive professionals. Before Shu finished her dive instructor course (IDC) in Koh Tao, Thailand, there were already 16 Chinese dive students signed up for a course. As we worked together as an instructor-couple, we found out that we are actually a great team. After teaching diving in Thailand and the Philippines, we started to work as Cruise Directors on several liveaboards (scuba diving yachts) in the Philippines, Indonesia, and Palau. We have dived more than 4,000 dives in the most pristine places like Southern Visayas and Tubbataha (the Philippines), Komodo and Raja Ampat (Indonesia), and Palau. Finding a new job on land instead of being at sea for four years was a welcome change at Bunaken Oasis Dive Resort & Spa. We started in March 2020, just before the world closed down due to COVID-19. We have been very busy maintaining the resort and keeping it ready for international travel, which started in early April this year.

Describe expat life in North Sulawesi. We mainly stay on the island of Bunaken where we sometimes meet up with other foreign staff and owners from the resorts. During COVID-19, there was more time to meet up and share ideas on how to cope with the difficulties. Luckily, tourists are coming back to Indonesia now and most resorts on the island are getting busier, so we have less time to meet up with other expats.

Briefly tell us about Bunaken Oasis Dive Resort and Spa. This resort opened officially in October 2016 and is owned by a British couple. The resort is built basically in the middle of Bunaken on a hill. After landing on our jetty, you’ll enter our lobby, which is inspired by traditional Indonesian longhouses. At the same level, you will find our dive centre, boutique, and offices. The 12 spacious cottages are spread over a hill up to 27 metres above sea level. Our pride and centrepiece is our beautiful infinity pool with a waterfall. From our restaurant, you will have a stunning view all the way to Manado.

Why was Bunaken the chosen destination for business? The owners wanted to build a luxury resort on an island where there wasn’t one yet and they fell in love with the people on Bunaken and the gorgeous reefs around Bunaken, being part of the National Marine Park.

Shu, you have an extended history of working in scuba diving and the leisure, travel, and tourism industry. How have these influenced your role as the resort's GM? S: Having worked on high-end liveaboards for four years and meeting so many different divers from all over the world, I understand well what a high-end guest wants and what passion for diving means for divers. Therefore, I can make sure that our managers and staff understand how to deliver an excellent and unforgettable guest experience. Needless to say, a lot of experience working in the diving industry makes me feel confident to make difficult and crucial decisions as the resort’s GM.

Ed, as the GM as well, do you think the diving hospitality is any different? E: Not really. A third of our guests are nondivers, so they’re looking for a luxury resort holiday just like they’d enjoy in the Maldives, for example. For divers, we aim to provide a diving experience which matches that of the resort in general.

What can holiday seekers do at the resort? Share an unforgettable to-do list. Obviously, holiday seekers can make amazing dives enjoying the beautiful and healthy reefs, full of reef fish and uncountable sea turtles around Bunaken. We also organise dive trips to our

A third of our guests are non-divers, so they’re looking for a luxury resort holiday just like they’d enjoy in the Maldives, for example. For divers, we aim to provide a diving experience which matches that of the resort in general. neighbouring islands. For the ones who don’t want to get wet and don’t mind getting up early, we organise dolphin-watching tours. Snorkellers can come along and get their own guide. At the resort, we have a spa, where guests can relax and get one of our finest massages. We can also take guests for different tours like our organic garden, staff village, watermaker room, genset room. Also, there are tours to visit the local people and experience their life available. For those interested, we can also organise cooking classes and cocktail classes.

How do you both spend your time living on a small island? Would you recommend it for expats? It is obvious that we are ocean lovers and our passion is to share all our knowledge of sea life. Unfortunately, there were no guests for

two years to share our passion with and for a long time during COVID-19, the National Marine Park didn’t allow us to dive. We started to explore the island by walking so we started to be amazed by the beautiful f lowers, trees, and insects Bunaken has. Nowadays, we either walk or run from the resort to the other end of Bunaken and back. Shu particularly loves gardening in our little private garden around our bungalow at the staff village.

Do you both often cross over to Manado? What's it like there? Have you tried exotic and uncommon dishes? We normally go to Manado once a week to do our personal shopping and groceries. It’s a typical Indonesian city with a wet market, a traditional market, a couple of big shopping malls, restaurants, shops, and a lot of traffic. Compared to Bunaken, having one car only and just one paved road from one end to the other end of the island, it’s pretty different! When we are in Manado, we enjoy Starbucks coffee and western food. We have never tried the uncommon dishes. For traditional food, we get spoiled by our own amazing chefs at the resort.

How can our readers get in touch with Bunaken Oasis Dive Resort and Spa? Readers can get in touch with us via our website www.bunakenoasis.com.

Thank you, Ed and Shu! Stay healthy and happy.

review

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

Book Review: The Bard, the Bad and the Ugly Kenneth Yeung reviews a poet’s prosaic recollection of expat life in Jakarta. BY KENNETH YEUNG

He’s happy to recount a few celibate chats with gold-diggers, attentive barmaids, ladies of the night. Even a chance encounter in a mall ends with a rejection note that could itself be a poem. Several pages are devoted to an anonymous tale of meeting a single mother online, flying to East Java for some brief physical interaction before realising that ongoing emotional interaction will not be so pleasant. There’s also the story of meeting a lady who threatens to call the cops if she’s not paid after a night of sex. Are these steamy episodes merely apocryphal cautionary tales – or are they personal confessions with the omission of the personal pronoun? If only these encounters had inspired some astute, observational verse.

THE BAJAJ BOYS BY BRIAN DIPIERDOMENICO (2013)

n 2013, a 53-year-old, divorced New Zealand man arrived in Indonesia to take up a teaching position at the New Zealand International School in Kemang, South Jakarta. Now, almost 10 years later, Jeremy Roberts has written a memoir, The Dark Cracks of Kemang, recounting his first year in the city. But this is not a collection of anecdotes about teaching English abroad. Instead, it’s a chronicle of his interactions with fellow expats and locals, interspersed with his impressions of Indonesia. Roberts is a poet and during that first year in Jakarta, he and a fellow teacher formed a performance duo, calling themselves The Bajaj Boys. Roberts would recite his poems to the guitar twanging of his colleague and housemate, Englishman Derek Fraser. They played a few gigs to friends and bemused locals. At the end of the year, their act folded when Derek departed Indonesia in response to an ultimatum from a girlfriend back in England. In the canon of English poetry, Indonesia is not a popular subject or setting. Few foreign poets have dipped their nib into the murky inkpot of the archipelago. One notable exception is a former Canadian diplomat, Peter Scott, whose “Coming to Jakarta: A Poem about Terror” (1988), is a breezy 150-odd pages of reminiscences, blaming the CIA for the 1965-66 anti-communist massacres in Indonesia.

Roberts tends to steer clear of overtly political poetry, though in his prose he does record the buzz that surrounded Joko Widodo ahead of the 2014 presidential election. But for the most part, he focuses on the often reprobate activities of his expat acquaintances. It’s as if some well-meaning person had suggested: “you could write a book about that” – and the advice was taken to heart. I was hopeful that a book by a poet might include a look at some local verse. Alas, Indonesian poetry doesn’t get a mention, which is a shame – as some of Indonesia’s better-known poets were punished and imprisoned, one was even presumed murdered, for using verse to critique the ruling elite. Readers of The Dark Cracks of Kemang will be treated to some of the author’s poems, scattered throughout the narrative. Here’s one of the shorter ones, called Bar Journeys #23: she served me alcohol. I thought we’ d spend the rest of our lives together. Ripe stuff, indeed. The enjoyment of the poems is enhanced by hearing them performed in the author’s lyrical, lilting Kiwi accent, accompanied by his sidekick’s guitar strumming. You’ll have to visit

audio platform SoundCloud to find the performance versions. Roberts excels in short, sharp observational verse that captures the ugly realities of Kemang, epitomized in It’s a Good Day to go Looking for Fresh Mango. Within the book, there’s sometimes a lot of prose before the next poem. And along the way, a couple of irritating fellows named Charles Bukowski and Jim Morrison keep interrupting the narrative, as do Keith Richards and Iggy Pop. It might have been more enlightening to have some rebellious Indonesian poets or singers as inspirational muses. Where Roberts does succeed is in making expat life in Kemang sound utterly ghastly. Most of the expat men he encounters are boorish, belligerent, beer-swilling womanizers. There are too many secondhand anecdotes about the tedious antics of these obnoxious inebriates. Bragging about escaping recrimination after a drunk-driving accident. Getting drunk and vomiting, repeatedly. Getting drunk and fighting. Getting drunk and smashing someone’s phone out of vindictive spite. Getting drunk and defecating into a glass. You get the idea. More sober are the musings on expatIndonesian relationships. Roberts, who is now remarried, is coy when it comes to revealing his own romantic experiences.

Long-term expats may find themselves treading over much familiar ground: Kemang bars, Blok M bars, Singapore visa runs, working without a permit, evading an Immigration raid. Interestingly, Roberts has unwittingly recorded the slow, agonising death of Blok M’s notorious Jalan Falatehan, where a few sex-oriented bars strive to survive against the gentle onslaught of mediocre gentrification. Roberts becomes a regular at a couple of the quieter bars and treats readers to recorded conversations and his eavesdropping on lecherous, alcoholic losers. Drunken chatter from Kemang is also transcribed verbatim. If you’d ever wanted to be a fly on the wall at gatherings of expats, this is your chance. Although the ensuing repartee might soon have you yearning for the insecticide. Frustratingly, Roberts rarely seems to step outside the expat bubble. Always too keenly aware that he’s a foreigner, he doesn’t go native, as he feels it would take too long to learn the language. At one point, concerned that a line in a poem might cause offence to Muslims, he notes, “I suppose I could discuss this with a local Muslim. There are plenty around.” But then he doesn’t talk to locals about it. One excursion to Taman Suropati park in Menteng results only in small talk with a group of locals. If you buy only one book about Indonesia this year, make sure it’s We Have Tired of Violence by Matt Easton, who recounts the assassination of a human rights activist. If you buy two books about Indonesia this year, you might find yourself simultaneously amused and repulsed by The Dark Cracks of Kemang. There are several references to Kemang’s famous Eastern Promise bar, although it’s unclear whether the manager will be offering free drinks to people who present a copy of the book.

The Dark Cracks of Kemang By Jeremy Roberts ≈ 350 pages Due for publication in September 2022 by Australia's Interactive Press

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

travel

Bays and Balinese air in Sumatra BY PRAMOD KANAKATH

outhern Sumatra’s forked pieces of land punctuate slender and turquoise bays that face almost all directions. Driving up from the port of Bakauheni all the way up to Teluk Kiluan (Kiluan Bay), one can pass by different bays, big and small. The journey will draw an imperfectly inverted V shape taking you upward from one fork to another while navigating around Lampung Bay, which itself is surrounded by small sub-bays. The landscape is a seemingly identical extension of Java’s Banten with its hilly roads and vegetation-filled acres criss-crossing coastal lines. Past the highway, getting into the country roads will bring you even closer to the hidden bays whose beaches provide weekend spots to tourists from Bandar Lampung and beyond. The presence of Balinese temples might bring a surprise revision in the itinerary. In the case of tropical beach-seeking travellers who might not research into cultural aspects of a place much, the sudden appearance of gopuras, the penjor (curved and decorated bamboo poles seen in front of Balinese temples) and the big-eyed, expression-filled statues of Gods and Goddesses can trigger an awkward form of deja vu. The Balinese migrated to various parts of southern Sumatra as a result of the Indonesian Transmigration policy from 1948 to around 1986 and the eruption of Mt. Agung in 1963 that left thousands homeless. Ever since the settlement, they have become a part of Lampung’s mainstream life, indulging in various forms of agriculture and trade, creating a little Bali miles away from Bali. Come the weekend, the tourist buses are busy running back and forth from the town of Bandar Lampung to various beach destinations like Tegal Mas island and Pahawang island which lie on the way to Kiluan. Their journey ends at a place called Pesawaran from where they turn left to reach the holiday spots. Venturing further down needs a little bit more patience and a willingness to ride the rough road and descend to the shores of Kiluan. The road after Pesawaran has many patches that need smoothening. Driving gets very tedious in these bumpy, pot-holes-filled area. The best way to survive this ordeal is to stop by at some of the beaches on the way and take in the beauty of the seascape around Lampung Bay.

also buy directly from the fishermen as prices are way cheaper than one can imagine in a town. This is an everyday scene in the bay where there is no jostling, crowding or haggling that may produce cacophony. Then there are the dogs and the cats, some owned, some part of the community by daily attendance. They get their share too.

KILUAN ISLAND

which is called either Pulau Kelapa (Kelapa Island) or Pulau Kiluan (Kiluan Island). The former features on the welcome board on the beach, but the island’s only dweller, an old man who stays in a long house, insists it is Pulau Kiluan. He has three or four rooms in his long house that he rents out to tourists for 150.000 Rupiah per night. A five minutes ride on slender outrigger boats called jungkung will get tourists to the island from the bay. The Kiluan Bay is home to one of the calmest fishing communities I have seen in Indonesia. The long and U-shaped arch that is dotted with jungkung and some other larger fishing boats has a routine that everyone follows judiciously. The fishermen have a double business – fishing and taking

The Kiluan Bay lies facing west, not far from the Sunda Strait and the Anak Krakatau volcano. The narrow strip of water in the bay is pretty clear and green and holds an island

A BALINESE TEMPLE IN KILUAN

KILUAN BAY

tourists on a sea ride to spot dolphins. The waters off Kiluan are one of the best places in the country to spot Bottle-nosed and Spinner dolphins. The ride usually starts at 6am and lasts an hour or more. While many tourists are lucky enough to have glimpses of springing dolphins that pop out of the water without warnings, some are even luckier to have them swim along with their jungkung. However, there are some (like me) who have to be contented with views of the vast ocean and a smooth ride on a calm sea. Tuna is the best catch in Kiluan’s waters. Fishermen set off at dusk to the outer sea and return at sunrise with baskets of small fish and tuna. The baskets are then kept on the beach from where vendors collect them to transport to different markets. The locals

The Kiluan Bay is home to one of the calmest fishing communities I have seen in Indonesia. The long and U-shaped arch that is dotted with jungkung and some other larger fishing boats has a routine that everyone follows judiciously.

BOAT RIDE TO SPOT DOLPHINS

My homestay owner and his wife are one of the fisher-folks too. Hailing from Java’s Banten province, they set up their business in Sumatra’s drooping southern edge a few years ago and have f lourished in an encouraging style. The man goes out to fish, takes tourists for dolphin-spotting, grills fish and chicken for guests at the homestay and goes around the neighbourhood to fetch all necessary items. The lady is almost always in the kitchen, cutting vegetables, washing chicken and fish or getting the rooms and the dining place ready for guests. A few steps away from the bay is a Balinese temple and a small cluster of Balinese houses that also have temples in their compounds. The community is engaged in various occupations. Some have their homestays on the edges of the bay and deal with distributing fish in different parts of Kiluan. I met a stationary shop owner called Made next to the temple who was born somewhere in Lampung in 1975. According to him, his father had lost his properties during the 1963 eruption of Mt. Agung and joined groups of families to migrate to Lampung. Ever since his teen years, Made has settled in Kiluan. Life is “OK” for him though he still has Bali dreams. The beaches in and around Kiluan are mostly rocky, and there are very few with sandy shores. However, some of them are very scenic like the Gigi hiu beach (translated as the tooth-shaped rocky beach) and the Laguna Gayau beach. These are difficult to reach by four-wheelers so motorcycles are the best transporters.

Guide Notes • Bandar Lampung to Kiluan takes about five to six hours (if the road condition is better, the journey time can be cut short by one hour) • There are plenty of homestays and villas on the arch of Kiluan Bay. Prices start from Rp150,000-800,000 per night. • One grilled tuna costs Rp50,000 and can be shared by at least four people • A boat ride to see dolphins costs Rp300,000 per boat. One boat can accommodate four people including the boatman

TYPICAL LAMPUNG HOUSES WITH STEPS SEEN ON THE WAY TO KILUAN

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

fitness

Juggling Life and Staying Fit in Bali BY KARA WUTZKE

We’re living the dream, right?

Get grounded

ho wouldn’t be happy living in the nature of this gorgeous island? And everywhere you look, there are beautiful people; ﬁt, tanned and living the beach-island dream. But what happens when you’re brand new and nothing is as you know it?

Relax, take it easy! We all need time-outs. No, you don’t have to sit in the corner and think about what you’ve done. Use the surroundings you have. Go for a long walk on the beach, in the jungle, sit in the sand and admire the views around you... Meditate or just do some light breath work outside, in nature, and relax into yourself. It’s cool to be chill. Get your Bali zen on!

Moving to a new country includes uprooting, leaving your old life, and ﬁnding a new norm for you and your family. This is a huge change for all.

Drink up water Sadly, not sugary drinks or alcohol, but water - and lots of it. The human body is about 60-70 percent water. Muscles alone are 70 percent water. Your body’s ability to digest, transport, and absorb nutrients relies on proper ﬂuid intake. It’s important to stay hydrated, especially in the tropics.

Let’s cut to the chase; expat life isn't as easy as most people think it is. Am I right? Perhaps you jumped right on board with the idea of living in a new country, or maybe you needed a little bit more convincing, but what draws many is the feeling that, ultimately, expat life will be what it appears to be on the surface.

Embrace your new country Go loco. Oh sorry, I mean go local. Try new things, embrace the culture and live on island time. It may not be as efficient in some ways and the day-to-day interactions and deﬁnitely not home. But if they were, what fun would that be?!

What’s not to like about the prospect of a nice salary, having many living expenses paid for, and perhaps not needing to work at all? New experiences, new food, new people, and not to mention a great learning opportunity for you and your kids! Plus, there is bound to be plenty to keep you busy, right? Surely this and everything else will mean happy relationships, happy kids, and a happy expat life.

Kara Wutzke is giving away her book for free to all our Indonesia Expat readers! Head to the website to get yours now.

a car and travel in traffic 20-30 minutes just to even arrive! No excuses. Keep your gym close and you’ll get there way more often.

Right? Unfortunately, a few important things are innocently overlooked, and many of them take a toll on your health and body. The novelty and holiday feeling consistently spills over into your lifestyle choices. Invitations to events, sunset drinks, and business dinners seem never-ending. Homesickness impacts your diet as comfort food becomes a way to reconnect with what you miss. Different ﬂavours and eating times result in snacking on tasty and familiar treats a little bit too regularly. Eating and drinking to reduce feelings of boredom and isolation? That was an unexpected one! Many people think it’s just a case of making a few adjustments, but we know it’s not that simple. It’s scary enough being an expat, but undertaking that journey in an unfamiliar country takes an extreme level of bravery and courage. Plus, as the years go by we get busier; we work more, have families and try to see friends. It’s easy for exercise to get put on the back burner. Being an adult with all these responsibilities is hard. Being too busy has sadly become the norm. Especially jumping to another country where everything is different and you’re adjusting to a new culture, food, and uncertainties. So, how do we take care of all our responsibilities of adapting to our new home and our physical health at the same time? Well, that’s the key right there. Understanding that your health is one of

Dumbbells at home

your responsibilities and making sure it’s a priority. Getting into a healthy routine is important for your lifestyle no matter where you are. Below is a list of easy habits you can make in order to start seeing the changes you want and make sure looking after yourself stays top of the list.

Follow the 80/20 rule No more yo-yo dieting. We are meant to enjoy. Within reason! And Bali has it all. How can you enjoy and still hit your goals? Say goodbye to restrictive diets. These diets are limiting and not sustainable. Once you go off these “miracle weight loss diets”, you quickly gain back the weight you lost. Choose healthy, clean foods 80 percent of the time. They are in abundance here! Enjoy the fresh foods in markets all over the island! Then, you can indulge in a few “notso-great” choices 20 percent of the time.

Go to the closest gym The prettiest gym or most popular gym is not always the right choice. Unless it has a speciality that no one else offers, it’s deﬁnitely not the right choice. So where do you go? The absolute closest gym to you! Having your gym next door helps with avoidance and creating excuses during those rainy Bali days when you don’t want to get in

Not a gym person but want to live a long, ﬁt life? I hope so! The easiest way to get in a great workout day-to-day without the stress of traffic or time crunches is having a set (ideally two sets) of dumbbells and then you can smash out a workout in 20-30 minutes.

Find your peeps Community is essential for life and your ﬁtness. We crave human connection and the best friends you could have are those with similar interests to you and your lifestyle. There are online groups all over the island supporting people in ﬁtness, charity, foodies, and the works. Find your tribe and give your soul the much-needed love and care that we miss from back home. Yes, we need this!

Being an adult with all these responsibilities is hard. Being too busy has sadly become the norm. Especially jumping to another country where everything is different and you’re adjusting to a new culture, food, and uncertainties.

www.10weekbodytransformation.com

Who is Kara Wutzke? Kara Wutzke is a TEDx Speaker, Body Transformation Expert, Podcaster, Physique Champion, Mum, Philanthropist, Cancerbeater, Beer Lover and an Expat living abroad for over 22 years. She launched the Ultimate YOU 10-week Challenge in 2012 to help people transform bodies, minds and lives. After helping over 6,000 people worldwide, she has come up with the easiest way to get YOU in the best shape of your life. Her coaching program is designed specifically for the "everyday" real person that wants the key to fitness results. For more coaching from Wutzke, check out www.k2fit365.com or feel free to add her directly on Instagram @kara.wutzke.

society

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

Rough Street Crime Going off the straight and narrow can be costly in Jakarta, as Daniel Pope recounts. BY DANIEL POPE

he last time I was in a police station in Central Jakarta, in around 2010, a boy was being forced by a group of amused officers to stand on a desk and impersonate the chicken that he had been arrested for stealing. I guessed that if a few minutes of squawking and flapping his elbows for the entertainment of some bored public servants was the extent of his punishment, he had got off lightly. I had come to the station because my friend was in trouble, and he had asked me to provide moral support, as well as to help as his interpreter. The dissolute nature of his problem was indicated by the young male prostitute and two tattooed hoodlums squeezed together with him on a bench. Let’s call him Gregory, a thirty-year-old gay Australian who had been working in Indonesia as an accountancy consultant for eight months. In his pursuit of intimate encounters with other men, Gregory had lately sunk from scouring Jakarta’s mainstream gay haunts to crawling its curbs. Tonight, at a notorious street square in Central Jakarta loomed over by the city’s largest mosque and its neo-gothic cathedral, he had arranged to pick up a seasoned sidewalk loiterer that he had been with before. This rent boy seemed trustworthy enough, even though during their last meeting he had asked Gregory to buy him a Playstation games console, a gift request that had seemed odd and suspicious in some way he couldn’t fathom. Gregory had simply said no and forgotten about it. This time, he and the boy were followed home by a pair of burly hoodlums, who by the way they hung back seemed to have already been given directions to his house. After bashing on the front door, the hoodlums introduced themselves as the boy’s outraged cousins. To make their point, one of them slapped the boy across the face. It wasn’t a hard slap. More of a pat. Gregory got the impression that this scene was scripted, and that he was the victim of a set-up. The sensible response would have been to just slip the hoodlums some money – extortion was clearly the motive here – and take it as a lesson learned. But Gregory was at the best of times stubborn. To the surprise of the hoodlums, who had expected a timid and quick surrender from this lone foreigner, he chose to seek some local help.

The Indonesian word for a street gangster is “preman”, and Gregory’s neighbourhood had its own gang of them. It wasn’t untypical in this respect. Organised criminals were tolerated and even welcomed by many in the community, and they operated in every part of Jakarta, running rackets and controlling informal businesses, such as security, protection, parking, and drugs. Having met the leader of the local outfit a few times in passing, Gregory reckoned he qualified for some of this protection for himself. He found the head preman, whose name was Bingo, in the VIP booth of a local bar with a group of henchmen and hangers-on. Invited to sit down like a pauper seeking an audience with a prince, Gregory asked for Bingo’s help. He wasn’t terribly sure what sort of help to expect, or even what he had hoped to achieve by coming here – perhaps simply to make it appear to the phoney cousins that he had powerful friends and shouldn’t be messed with. But Gregory’s antagonists – Bingo’s fellow hoodlums after all – were not impressed. They confidently gave their side of the story, explaining that on Gregory’s last encounter with the boy, he had promised to buy him a Playstation, but had since shown no intention of doing so. They added that the cash to buy one at their leisure would be an acceptable alternative. So this at least explained the boy’s request for the games console during their last meeting. He guessed that the hoodlums had put the boy up to it. Furthermore, nobody was interested in Gregory’s protest that he hadn’t made any kind of promise. Bingo explained that he was unable to get involved in the dispute, and was vague about his reasons. Promises, he said, weren’t his area of expertise, and he advised Gregory to go to the police station if he still felt aggrieved. “In fact, he’ll escort you there,” he said, indicating the most villainous and sinister-looking character in the group. “He’s a police officer.” Gregory was getting worried. If he’d given the consequences any thought at all when the hoodlums had burst into his house with their demands, he had expected a smoother solution than this. Acting so rashly on a conviction that he was in the right had been a mistake.

The detective who attended to them at the station was an avuncular sort, shaking Gregory’s hand heartily. After an initial assessment, which included questioning the hoodlums about their tattoos - in Indonesia long regarded as a mark of criminality – he asked pragmatically what the problem was if all Gregory had done was give the consenting boy money in exchange for sexual acts. Although relieved that the detective wasn’t proposing an investigation, Gregory had had enough and was trying to ignore everyone about him, refusing even to look them in the eye. But his treacherous pick-up beside him on the bench – this Tadzio turned Artful Dodger – gave him a gentle kick and asked, “Kenapa kamu sombong?” This translated to something like “Why are you rudely ignoring me?” Before Gregory could reply, the hoodlums engaged the boy in a huddled conversation, then simply repeated to the detective that Gregory had promised to buy him a Playstation. The detective asked Gregory if it were true that he had promised to give the boy such a gift. This was when I stepped in, feeling that things had gone on long enough. I took one of the hoodlums aside, spoke brief ly to him, then to Gregory, and reported to the detective that all parties had agreed that a handover of Rp1 million would be a satisfactory settlement. This was quickly arranged by way of official letters and signatures, and all that remained was for the detective to give Gregory an earnest lecture. “In Indonesia, we have many beautiful ladies,” he began, indicating that I should translate if Gregory failed to understand him. “They make wonderful girlfriends and faithful wives. You don’t have to look hard to find them. They are hospitable and generous. And so many of them would love to get to know a foreigner like yourself. Or, if it’s just sex you want, well, that tendency is catered for as well. Although as a police officer I can’t condone it, you understand. “But if you really must seek sexual favours with those of your own sex, don’t go with a boy like him…” He indicated Gregory’s male prostitute – cherubic, slim, coy, smiling. “His type should be avoided. It will only get you into trouble. No, go with a boy like him instead…” He indicated the biggest of the hoodlums – muscular, smirking, menacing, triumphant. “Yes, he’s much better. It will be much safer. Take my word for it.”

EMC Relocations – A Platform of Carefully Curated Relocation Services by Jakarta’s Most Comprehensive Relocation Company EMC Relocations has been serving contented clients for two decades, spearheaded by Esti McMillan, an expert realty specialist. In Esti’s words, EMC provides “A boutique experience”- customised portfolios to help clients find a home away from home. This includes support prior to, during, and after your move to Indonesia. The EMC Relocations core team consists of Esti McMillan – the founder (real estate specialist in landed houses), Lyubov Averiyanova (real estate specialist in highstandard apartments), Tenny Afrianti (account executive ) and Putri Alviata (co-ordinator and digital marketing expert). In addition to the in-house gamut of specialised services, EMC Relocations also works in collaboration with A for Effort - a Math and Science tutoring centre that has proved extremely helpful for expatriate families on the lookout for high-quality, international curriculum-based educational support. Despite the challenges of a difficult realty market over the past couple of years, EMC Relocations has added several more services to the already over-brimming bounty of relocation help. It is also proud to announce a tie-up for immigration services with Double M, a market expert focused on Indonesia and Southeast Asia. PURVIEW OF SERVICES OFFERED:

IMMIGRATION SERVICES – As you plan your move to Jakarta, EMC Relocations, in collaboration with Double M, shall guide you through the complex process of visa arrangements and immigration formalities that requires errorless precision. EMC Relocations also notifies you of any changes in regulations and requirements, translating into a smooth trouble-free move.

SETTLING IN SERVICES – Post the initial steps of moving and settling in, you need not be fazed, as Esti has you in good hands. EMC Relocations aids new families in obtaining a driver's license, opening bank accounts; and also helps recommend reliable agencies for hiring house staff, amongst other aspects.

PAYROLL and TAX INCOME SERVICES; EMC provides support in payroll and tax handling to mitigate incorrect handling of accounts and to avoid penalties. Reach out to experts in this field at EMC Relocations. ORIENTATION PROGRAMMES – Moving to any new country can be daunting, and EMC Relocations lends a helping hand to assist in a streamlined transition and settling in. This includes tailor-made tours covering social and volunteer opportunities, transportation, locations, traffic overview, and shopping and dining options. Crosscultural training is another part of this service, looking at bridging the gap between and helping gain a perspective of local cultures.

SCHOOL SEARCH – If you have children and need to look for, and decide on playschools, preschools, or schools for your kids; let EMC Relocations guide you with their extensive knowledge of schools in Indonesia.

HOUSE AUDIT – If you choose EMC Relocations, we will help arrange an audit of the potential rental home. This ensures you move into a safe environment and staves away likely hassles with the rental property.

Testimonials: Jeanette and Joerg Fischer Felsberg (Rolls Royce): One of the most knowledgeable and well-connected relocation agents in Jakarta. We are very blessed to have found Esti and her team at EMC. The administrative process was also handled without a hiccup. We would recommend her to anyone looking for a house in Jakarta. Csilla Lakatos (The World Bank): Esti is extremely efficient, reliable, friendly, honest, and above all, has an undeniable gift for matching house hunters with their dream homes. We appreciated that she went above and beyond the call of duty; and we highly and warmly recommend her.

HOME STYLING AND INTERIOR DESIGN – Worried about how to create and design the perfect living space for you and your family? EMC Relocations liaises with home interior specialists who will help you realize your vision of an ideal home.

Matt and Melanie Cherevaty: Incredibly quick to respond, Esti understood exactly what our needs were and got right on it. Moreover, she assisted with all our questions about living in Jakarta and also gave tips. We would highly recommend Esti to anyone new settling in Jakarta. Martin and Servane (L’oreal): Esti is not simply a relocation agency; she is the best friend you want to have when arriving in a new country. Trusting her blindly was the best first decision we made in Indonesia. She made everything easy. For more information on EMC’s services, head to www.emcrelocations.com. For inquiries, email us at inquiry@emcrelocations.com or contact Esti on +62 811 949 235.

HOME SEARCH – This is the USP and the largest area of expertise in EMC Relocations. Your needs in a home will be converted into a customised list of potential houses. Be well assured that you will find the perfect home you are in the search for, right here, at EMC Relocations.

FURNITURE RENTAL ASSISTANCE – A perfect home involves furniture. While your shipping is still in transit; contact EMC Relocations which is prepared to help source good quality rental beds, tables, seating options, etc.

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

insight

Indonesia’s Golden Age: The Tiger is Awake The future is electric In June, the local press were excited by a recent visit by President Jokowi to attend the ASEAN-US Special Summit in Washington DC where he met with prominent business leaders to promote Indonesia’s enormous potential for investment in industrial raw materials, green energy, and the digital economy.

IMAGE BY SAID ALAMRI (UNSPLASH)

e wrote a blog just after President Jokowi won the last election, to look at what was being touted as Indonesia’s Golden Age. It was an upbeat piece, full of hope and optimism, and now as we’re approaching Indonesia’s 77th birthday, and the year the country holds the presidency of the G20, it seems like a good time to see how things have actually been working out and whether Indonesia really is in a Golden Age. Many unforeseen global events have happened since that first blog though; pandemics, lockdowns, war, climate catastrophe, soaring inf lation, political controversy, riots, and a shift in the world order, you know, all of the stuff that feeds the fear. But we don’t think it’s all been doom and gloom. Here’s why we think Indonesia’s glass is half full and the region’s economic tiger is finally awake and doing business.

World Bank: State revenue Recent World Bank reports have an overall positive outlook for Indonesia. They explain that Indonesia’s economic planning follows a 20-year development plan; the last phase, which ends in 2025, aims to further strengthen the economy by improving the country’s human capital and competitiveness in the global market. In addition, Fitch Ratings has assigned Indonesia’s proposed US dollar sovereign global certificates (Sukuk), a “BBB” rating, further strengthening investment confidence, opportunities and the ease of doing business. The government announced a 45.6 percent increase (Year-on-Year) in state revenue in the first four months of 2022, totalling Rp853.6-trillion, which is almost 46 percent of the targeted revenue for the year. Finance Minister Sri Mulyani Indrawati said, “the growth is remarkable.” According to

government data, tax revenues surged by 51.5 percent to Rp567.7 trillion; income from excise and import duties rose by 37.7 percent to Rp108.4 trillion, and non-tax revenues saw a 35 percent rise to Rp177.4 trillion.

BKPM: Record high Iinvestments The Omnibus Law, also known as the Job Creation Law, aims to create more jobs and raise foreign and domestic investments by reducing regulatory requirements for businesses. This is supported by the Online Single Submission (OSS) system, introduced to cut red tape and speed up the licensing process, which is now all centralised under the Investment Coordinating Board (BKPM.) BKPM recently announced Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) reached Rp163.2-trillion in Q2 2022, which is an almost 40 percent Year-on-Year increase and more than a 30 percent increase on Q1 2022. According to the Jakarta Globe, Domestic Direct Investment (DDI) “also increased, albeit at a slower pace of 30.9 percent, to Rp139 trillion from the same period last year. In total, BKPM recorded Rp302.2 trillion of investment in the second quarter, up 35.5 percent from Rp223 trillion last year. BKPM data exclude investments in oil and gas, finance and banking, home industries, or small and medium enterprises.” In the first half of 2022, the total amount of investment reached Rp584.6 trillion, which is almost US$40 billion and almost half of the total target set for 2022.

Bi-Lateral agreements Arguably one of the most significant recent bi-lateral agreements is the IndonesiaAustralia Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (IA-CEPA), which

has now been officially ratified by both countries and presents great opportunities for both Australian and Indonesian businesses. Four more bilateral agreements were signed between Indonesia and Switzerland as well as an agreement between Indonesia and the UK on the sidelines of the recent World Economic Forum (WEF) meeting in Davos, according to the Foreign Affairs Ministry. In July, local news wires reported the start of closer collaboration between Indonesia and Vietnam in developing electric vehicles (EVs) and on a bilateral cooperation between Indonesia and the United Arab Emirates related to the pharmaceutical and medical device industries. There has also been the Indonesia-United Arab Emirates Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (IUAE-CEPA), which Antara News suggest is being fasttracked to be ratified as quickly as possible. The value of Indonesia’s exports to the UAE reached US$1.9 billion (Rp28.56 trillion) in 2021, an increase of 52.15 percent compared to 2020.

Sovereign wealth fund Nikkei Asia are reporting that China’s Silk Road Fund (SRF) has committed to invest US$3 billion into Indonesia through Indonesia’s Sovereign Wealth Fund, which has been designed to attract foreign firms as co-investors and channel funds into strategic projects across the country. The second round of financing has just been announced following the realisation of the initial tranche of US$15 billion. The Edge Markets are claiming President Jokowi “is planning to raise his target… to as much as US$100 billion. Southeast Asia’s largest economy is betting on big-ticket projects to drive a turnaround in the economy.”

He spent time with Elon Musk at the Space X rocket production plant, who expressed his interest in the positive energy surrounding Indonesia’s future, saying “I think Indonesia has great potential, and I think we through Tesla and Space X will try some collaborations with Indonesia.” It’s worth remembering that Indonesia is one of the world’s largest producers of nickel, a core component of the stainless steel and lithiumion battery cells essential for the Electric Vehicle (EV) industry. Toyota, Hyundai, Volkswagen and Mitsubishi are already developing EV facilities and products here, while Reuters report that Nickel miner Vale Indonesia, China’s Zhejiang Huayou Cobalt and Ford Motor company signed a nonbinding memorandum of cooperation to build a plant in Indonesia to extract nickel chemicals.

Booming digital economy Indonesia is currently the fifth largest country in the world for start-ups, with 2,346, including two decacorns and eight unicorns. According to Jokowi, Southeast Asia’s digital economy is expected to reach US$330 billion in value by 2025 and is forecast to enjoy a 20 percent annual growth, and will likely reach US$146 billion by the same year. Bank Indonesia (BI) is currently working on developing the Central Bank Digital Currency (CBDC), which will be called the “Digital Rupiah,” to provide the public financial sovereignty, support the central bank’s mandate regarding the digital economy sector, as well as increase financial innovation and efficiency.

International peacekeeper Indonesia is also positioning itself as an international peacekeeper with recent visits to Russia and Ukraine, indicating Jokowi is adopting a neutral geo-political position on the world stage. This is a strong sign of political stability and will also encourage investor confidence. These are exciting times for those who believe in Indonesia’s future. At Seven Stones Indonesia, we do and we believe in the power of a positive and creative mindset. We try to help businesses grow; we encourage investment and are forging relationships with like-minded organisations and we encourage you to do the same. If you’d like to learn more get in touch with us at Seven Stones Indonesia through hello@sevenstonesindonesia.com.

observation

The Expat Life: Changing Times Mean Changing Expectations BY DAVID NESBIT

rowing up, I never expected I would become an expatriate. I always assumed that like most people, I would graduate, fall into a job or profession, and then meet someone and settle down to a life if not full of domestic bliss, then at least one of relative contentment. Yet here I am now, into middle age with far more years behind than in front of me fast approaching the thirtieth anniversary of my move to Indonesia and I am aware that this might very well be it – I might now never permanently return to England’s fine shores. During my time here I have of course seen many changes to the wonderful country I have been fortunate enough to call “home” all this time. The Indonesia of 2022 is a far different place from the one I first encountered when I came here to live in the spring of 1993 politically, economically, socially and culturally with – in the main – great strides having been made in all areas.

As the years went by and I became more ingrained in life overseas, the advent of technology developed to such an extent that my life as an expatriate also changed significantly. The rest of the world has, naturally, also moved on in the same period of time, as my trips home to England bear out. Every time I am lucky enough to be able to afford a quick break back in Blighty, I notice yet more changes and differences to the land I grew up in. As I have gotten older and stayed here longer and longer, not only has my outlook on life in general naturally developed but also my attitude towards the expatriate life has altered. The expatriate existence of the third decade of the new millennium is vastly different to that of the last decade of the previous one, that’s for sure. In days gone by, a true expatriate really could be described as a renaissance man or woman – someone totally cut off from their previous existence with little or no links connecting them to the past. The same cannot really be said about today and the modern expatriate. One of the most noticeable changes has been advancements in technology which have been staggering over the past three decades. It is these changes that have contributed most to the ways in which life as an expatriate has also changed. When I first touched down in sunny Surabaya all those years ago, it was before the advent of the internet of course, and so news, communications and correspondence with one’s homeland were rudimentary, to say the least. The only viable ways to stay in touch with friends and family in those days were through snail mail or the occasional phone call. As the price of even a oneminute call to England back in 1993 was approximately £3 (or around Rp10,000) then, I developed penmanship that had been sadly lacking since the days of my misspent youth. Many a Saturday evening was spent trying to tune into the BBC World Service in order to follow to some degree the fledging new Premier League back in England. The success rate of satisfactory connection was at best around 50 percent as I recall, leading to levels of undue frustration on a weekly basis.

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

Other media was scarce in those days too, meaning I was cut off from keeping in touch with the everyday comings and goings of my home country and as a result, soon fell behind in terms of knowing who was famous or popular in modern culture. In the Indonesian media, reporting on world news rather than localised events were rare and when it did occur at all it was mainly with a United States slant with the result that I quickly fell behind on such matters as political and economic events. For example, I remember not being aware that Tony Blair had been elected the leader of the Labour Party until a good six months or so after the event. In addition, books, magazines and newspapers in English were expensive and not especially easy to come by out in Surabaya back then, with only the Jakarta Post newspaper freely available and even this august publication invariably made its way to East Java a day late. However, I recall that rather than feeling any great sense of isolation or homesickness, I was invigorated by the changes and diversity I was experiencing. I was trying to learn the language – a battle I am still far from winning all these years later – and was being exposed to other new experiences such as the transportation systems and local food delicacies. I like to think in those days I was reasonably open-minded and so didn’t find the anticipated culture shock much of a problem but there was no denying that there was an underlying current present. Without generalising too much I hope, I found Indonesians to be rather more approachable and friendly than the sometimes rather staid and conservative brethren of my homeland, and upon ref lection, although welcome strangers striking up conversations did take a bit of getting used to. As the years went by and I became more ingrained in life overseas, the advent of technology developed to such an extent that my life as an expatriate also changed significantly. A message or WhatsApp phone call home now is practically a daily event for most of us, while all the information in the world is a mere couple of clicks away. This means that the world is in effect getting smaller and we are all becoming global citizens to an extent. Now, all these years later and I am still here, and as reasonably content and happy as I am to call Indonesia “home”, there is still an awareness that I am and will always be an outsider to a degree. Although totally accepted by almost everyone I meet and deal with in work, social and other environments, I realise that I am different in some respects and this will always be the case. Additionally, the longer I stay away from England the more detached I feel from that green and pleasant land too. Each time I return for a holiday or to see friends and relatives, I feel just a little more “off the pace”, in a manner of speaking, and I have long been at the stage when I consider each journey to England as a “holiday” and not “a trip home”. In summary, although life as an expatriate has had its ups and downs and challenges, it has been a great experience and one that I wouldn’t have missed for the world.

Indonesia Expat Issue 287 | August 4 - 31, 2022

Expat Advertiser JAKARTA Automotive

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PORSCHE CAY MA N 7 18 LAVA OR ANGE LOW KM, FIRST HAND LIKE NEW! 2019. VERY LOW 3000 KM. Contact Adi Jaya (serious buyer on ly). W hat sapp: +6287860076777. Jobs Available I’d like to share a part-time job opportunity for a Native teacher to teach at a school in the Bekasi area. With experiences or non-experiences are welcome to apply. just share your cv to miracle. education101@gmail.com. We are hiring bartender / bar back / bar staff for villa, pub and restaurant in Seminyak, U luw a t u a nd G i a ny a r. Requirements: • Able to Speak English • Experience in Bar Industry • Open for male and female Send your CV to recruitment@ balistaffsolutions.com or WA +6281337899078. Services Hello, I am a professional English teacher and have more than 12 years of teaching experience. I am looking for a suitable opportunity related to my experience. I would love to send you my CV. thank you. Email: nazakat454@gmail. com. Contact or WhatsApp: +6281234617676. I am a private teacher who can help both international and national plus high school students in the subjects of physics, chemistry and mathematics. I have previous experience in coaching and tutoring students from the following schools: SPH, IICS, ACS, Raff les, and Binus to quote a few. I am willing to give a few teaching sessions for free as a trial and can teach both online and off line. For more information, please contact me at: helen.mariani25@gmail. com Drum lessons at your home? Please contact Pak Ading at +6281291001984. 35 years of experience, English speaking, beginners-advanced, electronic or regular drum kit. References available upon request. Email: nmstewart@cbn.net.id I am a private teacher who can help both international and national plus high school students in the subjects

of physics, chemistry and mathematics. I have previous experience in coaching and tutoring students from the following schools: SPH, IICS, ACS, Raff les, Binus to quote a few. I am willing to give a few teaching sessions for free as a trial and can teach both online and off line. For more information, please contact me at: helen.mariani25@gmail. com Bonjour, I offer private French classes in Jakarta. Beginner or advanced level. I’m a French native with a college background that includes 3 years of Modern Literature (Paris X University Nanterre) and a Master in International Relations. If interested, please feel free to contact me by private message. A bientôt – Philippe: +6281380085031. New in Indonesia? Keen to learn the language and speak like a local? Weekend classes only. For more information & appointment: bahasaprivate@ gmail.com Personal Trainer For Fitness & Fat Loss After 35. Hi, I'm Andri. I’m an NASM certified personal trainer and Precision Nutrition Lv. 1 certif ied nutrition coach with close to 10 years of coaching experience. I’m looking for men and women ages 35 and up who are looking to lose weight, feel great and boost their immune systems in safest and most enjoyable manner from their homes. If you’re struggling to keep up with regular exercise and healthy eating habits during the pandemic, or you’d like to optimize your current health and fitness regime while living in Indonesia, then I might be able to help you. I offer both virtual and in-person coaching. Rate starts from Rp. 250K for a 30-minute 1-on-1 virtual coaching session. For more information about my services and booking a free consultation (or trial lesson,) go to: https:// www.jakartafitnesscoach.com

Property

Apart Menteng eksekutif, Tower Palem 4 th f loor. Jl pegangsaan barat 12, in the heart of Menteng. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1 bathroom for the maid. New kitchen, New AC, new washing machine, fully renovated. Asking price Rp5 billion (negotiable). Size unit: 160. Electricity: 10,600 Watt. Contact: +6281294161601. Land for sale in Senggigi, Lombok. The land has a certificate and the sale is

Send your classifieds to: info@indonesiaexpat.biz Next Deadline: August 24, 2022

through the owner, who lives in Tangerang, and there is no agent fee involved. The land is at the back of Senggigi town and is about an eightminute walk from the beach. It is accessible by road It is 17 Are (1700 square metres). The price is negotiable. Senggigi is an ideal retirement location but the land could be used for villas or a small hotel. Contact person: Yudha Asmara (owner) +6281319499445

room ( can be converted into a study or guest room). Open kitchen, 1 ensuite + 1 bathroom, Large wardrobe in each room Utility area, 1 storage/maid room, 1 staff bathroom, 6 AC units. Washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, induction hobs, oven and microwave all imported from Germany. Bre a k fa st a re a . A sk i ng for US$2,500 negotiable inc service charge. Semifurnished. For further info, contact Esti McMillan at EMC INDONESIA. Mobile: +62811949235. Household Staff Available

NOW AVA IL A BL E FOR R E N T. Kema ng V i llage Apartment. Tower Empire. Size 73sqm, 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, fully furnished, very nice unit. IDR 18 million / month. Email jakartalinks@ gmail.com

For rent, Senayan Residence Apa r tment . A high- end community with easy access to Senayan, Thamrin & Sudirman. Private elevator - 151m 2 , 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom, Maids quarters. Fully furnished. This apartment is available for rent at US$2,250/month, nego, min 1-year. For further information contact me directly at +6281219598537. Balinese style garden in Kemang. South Jakar ta , Value lease and sale, Family Haven residence. Strata title apartment, Apartment Kemang Jaya for rent or sale. Located in strategic area in kemang SELATAN VIII between kemang and antasari, easy access to scbd and TB Simatupang. With 5 ha filled with lawn, palm trees and beautiful f lowers. Available KPA, Bank: danamon, bni, mandiri, niaga, panin. Unit details: 144 Sqm, 3 Bdr, Renovated, Unf ur nished, Cityview, Morning sun. FAST Sale price Rp2.4 Billion, Rent price IDR 20 million and Penthouse 256sqm-3 Bdr, 2 Floors, ethnic design, for Rent US$2,200 / sale Rp6.5 Billion, Email to jakartalinks@gmail. com Stylish apartment in Kemang – has been reduced from USD$2,800 to US$2,500. 205m 2. Large balcony ( halfmoon shape) facing the city. Private lift. In the heart of expat area with easy access to international schools, going to CBD and expat neighbourhood. 3 bedrooms, open dining and living area. Open TV/family

We are looking for a reliable couple for housework and gardening. We are two older people with two cats and two dogs. We both speak Indonesian and English. The wife will do housework and some cooking. Husband will maintain the garden, and pool, and do some maintenance. Please WA me on +628111804623. Live out helper. Due to our relocation, our wonderful helper, Ibu Supa r si is available in August. She has great cooking skills. She can follow recipes in English independently. She is wonderful with children. Ibu Suparsi is reliable, trustworthy, and always cheerful. Our family love her. She is punctual and she is open to working overtime. Please contact Ibu Suparsi directly. Her number is +6281380661238. Awesome nanny available from August onwards! As we are leaving Jakarta our nanny will become available. She has been absolutely amazing with my 2 young (and sometimes wild ) boys of 1 and 3 years old. She’s looking for a full-time Mo-Fr job preferably in the South Jakarta area. Please contact her directly via +6287786784758.

BALI Property

Takeover restaurant. Rent Rp275 million. Prime location at Kartika Plaza (Bali). Full Equipment, Ruko 3 f loors (4x12m). Electricity 23,000 Watt, Water PAM, 1 line phone. Good prospect for the future. Plea se DM for f ur ther information: +6285935097457.

New to Jakarta? Look for a Doctor!

a plan for the regular follow ups. Your family doctor can facilitate the communication with your specialist. Monitoring your condition on behalf of the specialist can also be done by a good family physician.

You and your family might be in good health, but in general everyone needs some medical input at some point in time. I think it is very important that you at least identify a clinic that you are comfortable with. Look for a group of medical professionals who you can turn to, with any concerns. I would like to share some information to make life a bit easier.

Discuss any concerns with your trusted medical practitioner. It I important that you identify a clinic that you are comfortable with. GOOD PRACTICE provides house calls and COVID-19 testing (we can also come to your house for testing).

Common health problems for expats living in Jakarta There are three things to expect when you are living in Jakarta; infectious diseases, non-infectious diseases and accidents/injuries. Infectious diseases, like foodborne, air borne, or even body fluid transmitted diseases are common to get in Indonesia. Non-infectious diseases, or chronic diseases are sometimes unavoidable depending on your risk profile. Accidents and injuries can happen anywhere. Rhesus negative blood is very rare in Indonesia. Join our registry: Rhesusnegative@goodpractice.co.id What to do when you are sick Feeling unwell can be a challenge for someone who is new to Jakarta. First advice would be to seek an opinion if you are unsure about your condition. You may use Dr Google, talk to friend or even a medical professional back home. If possible, visit a clinic that you are comfortable with. In an ideal world you should have an assessment by a trusted medical practitioner. Your medical practitioner will give a possible diagnosis. A management plan needs to be mutually agreed upon. You need to voice your expectations and ask for possible options. (Are you expecting a referral? Do you think further treatment should be done abroad?) Preventive actions To avoid diseases from happening, you need to know how to manage avoidable risks. For infectious diseases, there are lots of

HOUSE CALLS ARE PROVIDED FOR EVERY CONDITION INCLUDING VACCINATIONS AND CHILDHOOD IMMUNISATIONS.

vaccinations available to protect you, including vaccinations against Covid-19. Food prepared under unclear circumstances, tap water, and mosquitos should be avoided. Identify a clinic that you are comfortable with! You can discuss your own your risk profile with your trusted physician. In a tropical country like Indonesia, there are a lot of infectious diseases. Infectious diseases can be spread by water and/or by food such as traveler’s diarrhea, hepatitis A, typhoid fever and amoebic dysentery. Insect bites can spread diseases like malaria, dengue, Japanese encephalitis, zika and chikungunya. Tuberculosis, influenza and also Covid are transmitted by coughing and sneezing. Body fluid transmitted diseases like STI’s, HIV/ AIDS, Hepatitis B & C are also common in Indonesia. There are possibilities of getting Rabies and Avian influenza if you are exposed to certain animals.

Best of all is that you now can have a consultation with anyone of our medical team from whatever location. We have introduced TELECONSULTATIONS. Now, you can connect with us directly. Good Practice Clinic has patients from 77 countries. We have added Mongolia, Tobago and Madagascar to our list. Our English speaking staff implements International guidelines. We provide highly personalized care. Try us!

Chronic disease management If you are suffering from a chronic disease, we advise you to have a list of your regular medication. You should identify a doctor who can regularly check upon your condition and someone who can advise which (specialist) doctor you should see. Make

Dr Steven Graaff, MD, MRCGP, the founder of Good Practice Clinic is a graduate of the Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam. Before completing his formal training in General Practice in the UK, he worked in several hospitals, occupational health and general practice in the Netherlands and the UK. As a medical professional with international experience,Steven decided to start his own clinic – Good Practice, in Jakarta

Jl. Bangka Raya #106B Jakarta 12730 Tel. +62-21-7183140 info@goodpractice.co.id