EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way
FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford
Sophie
With 2023 designated Year of the Coast, now is the time to plan a trip to explore, embrace and enjoy our wonderful coastline. In this issue we bring you a plethora of options, from one of the UK’s hottest new hotel openings, a stone’s throw from Bournemouth’s sandy beach (p24) to the stylish dog-friendly beach lofts at Watergate Bay (p68) and luxurious coastal stays where you hear nothing but a soundtrack of waves as you fall to sleep (p90). For more active seaside pursuits, enjoy island-hopping in the Scottish Hebrides (p80). Plus, don’t miss the chance to win a stay in one of Cornwall’s most picturesque fishing villages, Coverack (p67).
Transitioning from coast to city, we take a relaxing weekend break in Cambridge (p28), and a walking tour of historic Warwick (p86) should also tempt you back inland. We discover the best waterfalls to visit (p44) and the finest vineyards where you can sip and stay (p34).
And if it is the countryside you seek this summer, head to The Pheasantry, a new luxury self-catering holiday cottage on the Goodwood Estate (p60) and find time to explore the impressive new distillery and capture the magic of The Cotswolds (p74). Coast, city or countryside, no matter where you find yourself this summer, we wish you an incredible season filled with unbeatable moments and dream travel adventures.
Time to be spoilt. With a short flight yet scenery that doesn’t seem of this country. With deserted beaches in the middle of August. With long days bookended by epic sunrises and sunsets. With all the island-hopping, clear-water kayaking, peaceful paddleboarding possibilities.
TRESCO.CO.UK/SUMMERTresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.
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It’s Bournemouth’s turn to shine, as Editor Jessica Way goes behind the scenes of its new multimillion-pound, five-star hotel, The Nici, for your ultimate beachside getaway with a real dollop of luxury.
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It’s a city renowned for academia but that doesn’t mean Cambridge is low on charm, as we take a relaxing weekend in this architecturally impressive getaway, where drifting down the River Cam on a chauffeured flat-bottomed boat is a serene way to see the sights.
Britain has some truly beautiful vineyards, many with extraordinary accommodation to match, so we have rounded up the best for your drinking and dining pleasure, from five-star manor houses with Michelin-starred restaurants to luxurious lodges and quirkily converted farmhouses.
Savour the simultaneous serenity and power in this ode to the best waterfalls in Britain, whether you’re skimming through North England’s Aira Force in Cumbria to Wales’ Four Falls Trail, the Peak District National Park or Northern Ireland’s glens of Antrim, we have plenty of scenic stops to add to your road trip.
There are many delicious reasons to cycle around the Peak District, rewarding yourself with gourmet stops aplenty, sampling the likes of Bakewell Pudding, local craft beers, gins and cheese, and taking the opportunity for some cutlery and crockery inspiration too.
Motorsports, horse-racing and golf afficionados may already be acquainted with the famous Goodwood Estate in West Sussex, but there are many more indulgent adventures to be had at this extraordinary destination.
Summer holidays in Cornwall never looked so inviting, with the new loft suites at Watergate Bay Hotel offering close-up access to the surf and sand, and a warm welcome for your pooches too.
Two of our favourite hotels, Another Place in the Lake District and The Machrie on the Isle of Islay have teamed up to offer guests an unforgettable experience staying in The Machrie’s gloriously wild location this summer.
Co-curated with The Machrie team, Another Place is bringing their love for the great outdoors to Islay – offering guests wild swimming, stargazing, marshmallow-toasting and firepit cocktails (just as they’d expect at Another Place, The Lake), along with Hebridean wildlife sunset boat trips, golf tuition, fatbike hire, tuk-tuk island tours, distillery visits and much more.
Available throughout August 2023. Prices from £742 per person for three nights at The Machrie to include fatbike hire, Islay Sea Adventures wildlife boat trip, sunset cocktail on the dune deck/ beach firepit experience, dinner (two nights) and airport/ferry port transfers. Alternatively, go for the full experience – a five-night, two-location holiday that includes all of the above, plus two nights at Another Place, The Lake in Cumbria en route. Prices from £2,034 for two people. another.place/scottish-island-adventure
Taking a sailing adventure around Scotland’s Hebrides with your own skipper and chef is a dreamy way to celebrate the warmer weather, see some fabulous scenery and wildlife, and disconnect from life’s usual distractions.
Lace up your boots, we’ve got a special self-guided tour of Warwick, one of England’s bestpreserved towns, where architectural splendour and fascinating history await your attention.
If you want to stay beside the sea this summer, we’ve rounded up the best hotels with fabulous views, where hot tubs and infinity pools come with blissful scenery, perhaps even with the chance of spotting seals or dolphins.
We chat to the founder of Cotswolds Distillery, Daniel Szor, who has just become the largest producer of English whisky, thanks to a new £3 million distillery expansion.
Whether you’re in the market for glamping inspiration or the most indulgent wellness hotels, we’ve got your summer destinations covered, from brand-new spa garden suites in the Lake District and yurts with stargazing ceilings in Yorkshire to dogfriendly stays in County Durham.
Don’t miss the chance to stay at one of four opulent PoB hotels: Palé Hall in Wales, Cromlix in Scotland, Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa in England or The Atlantic in The Channel Islands.
We are spoiling you with competitions in this edition, with a trip to Trevanion Cottage in one of Cornwall’s fishing villages also up for grabs.
Our summer book recommendations and crossword are here to challenge those holiday brains or to while away the hours on the beach.
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Northcote, Lancashire
Think of PoB Hotels as the key and each one of our hotels as a door to new experiences. Each completely unique. Each hand-picked by us. Each the Pride of Britain. www.pobhotels.com
hotels, relaxing retreats and gorgeous glamping are among the new options for a great British break this summer
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GLAMPING EXPERIENCES
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A mashup of work and wellness, hotel and members club, offering great food and unusual activities, Birch opened its first property in Cheshunt in 2020. Now it has a second outpost, this time with a family wing in the 19th-century mansion set amid grounds of 200 acres. Expect bunk beds in some of the stripped-back rooms, a kids club, lido, and activities including pottery, screen printing and cooking. It’s fun for all the family, and you get an introductory food credit of £20 per person. ◆
Rooms from £160; birchcommunity.com
It’s good luck for gastro-pub lovers: acclaimed chef Margot Henderson OBE has just opened The Three Horseshoes, with five bedrooms upstairs. The simple, short menu is big on food from local suppliers, featuring dishes such as wild garlic and bread broth, Old Spot chop and apple sauce, followed by double lemon pudding. Delicious. ◆
Rooms from £220, with breakfast, thethreehorseshoesbatcombe.co.uk
We love the look of this chic new guesthouse on Hillsborough’s Main Street. The 12 effortlessly stylish bedrooms blend antiques and architecture dating back to 1904 with contemporary comfort. Statement fabric headboards and plenty of colourful velvets are common to all rooms, while some have a copper bath, period fireplace or adjoining ‘pod’ area for children. ◆
Rooms from £150, with breakfast, arthurshillsborough.com
Nature comes first at this long-awaited spa; in place of cutting-edge therapies, you get a more holistic approach. Go forest bathing or try cold-water swimming in the lake before returning to the two-storied serene space for a warm up in the glass-fronted sauna, outdoor hydrotherapy area or indoor pool. The soundtrack is birdsong, and Skye Gyngell’s short plant-based menu is designed to refresh the body. It’s not cheap – 135 minutes costs £310, but that starts with a consultation and includes access to specialists on naturopathy, osteopathy and reiki. ◆
heckfieldplace.com
Eight swish new spa garden suites open in June at this Lake District hotel, each with oversized windows framing the views, and outdoor space. Guests can walk in the 400-acre estate and book forest bathing and a mindfulness-with-animals experience.
From £485 a night, with breakfast, armathwaite-hall.com
For a budget break in Bristol, take a look at this revamped pub with 19 boutique bedrooms. Downstairs, it’s all vintage leather chairs and booths, with eclectic artwork in the blue-panelled dining room, and pub grub as well as seafood on the menu. Upstairs, rooms might have freestanding bathtubs, high ceilings, quirky corners and dogs’ or kids’ beds. ◆
Rooms from £109, hortstownhousebristol.co.uk
With bold floral murals on bedroom walls and ceilings as well as tropical rainforest designs on shower-room tiles, Malmaison’s second property in Manchester is definitely not for wallflowers. Paying homage to the retro designs of the '60s and '70s, the hotel will also feature a rooftop bar, where guests can enjoy Pan-Asian style tapas dishes while overlooking Albert Square. It’s due to open in July, with rooms from £195 in August.
If you can’t wait until then, Malmaison’s Piccadilly hotel has just refurbished some of its rooms, which cost from £129. ◆
malmaison.com
Antiques and artwork abound in this Georgian-style boutique hotel near the Maritime Quarter. Some of the 12 bedrooms have fourposter beds, others might have double showers or a roll-top bath. You can get half-price rooms on a Sunday, too.
Rooms from £144, thegeorgianswansea.com
Four-legged guests can now stay at this beautiful hotel with superb spa facilities, which also makes the perfect base to explore County Durham’s coastline. What’s more, if you’re the owner of a King Charles cavalier spaniel and book to stay with them before 30 June, you will get three nights for the price of two to celebrate the royal coronation. ◆
From £465 for two humans and two dogs, with breakfast, seaham-hall.co.uk
The yurts at Eavestone Lake on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales are already pretty special. On raised platforms, they come with a private hot tub and BBQ outside, a kitchen and bathroom, electricity and a wood burner, plus stargazing ceilings above the bed. Now they also have access to a nearby glass-fronted sauna in the woods, a spa treatment yurt and wellness studio. Add to that yoga by the lake, wild swimming and ice baths and you’ve got all the ingredients necessary for the perfect wellness mini-break. ◆
A night from £220 for two, yurtshire.co.uk
Inspired by safari lodges in Kenya but slap bang in the middle of the English countryside, the Nest’s three ‘tents’ are dog and family friendly. With three bedrooms sleeping six, they have a large living area and an inviting egg-shaped tub with great views of the lake. You can order a hamper or BBQ pack. ◆
Four nights from £750, thenestglamping.co.uk
RIBBLE
Soak up the scenery of the Ribble Valley as you lie in your private hot tub in one of a dozen lodges set amid verdant hills. Whether you pick a Scandi-chic or a ski-chalet theme, each cabin has a woodburning stove and kitchenette within. A new wellness space is the place for yoga and meditation. ◆
From £250 a night, everything-retreat.com
Lie in bed and gaze out of the 5m picture window towards the Glamorgan coast from the Pavilion, a gorgeous getaway for couples. New to this little glampsite next to St Donat’s Castle, it has a swish wood-floored dining/sitting area with the same view, decorated by glasswork, art and textiles from local artisans. A small twin room is at the back, along with a kitchen and shower room. There’s plenty to see in the surrounding area…although you could just stay in and enjoy that view. ◆
From £160 a night for two, hide.wales
Taking treehouses to a whole new level, these four raised wooden cabins amid ancient woodland have views to the Gargunnock Hills. With one or two bedrooms, they feature underfloor heating and wood burners, with outdoor copper baths and electric BBQs.
A night from £290, leckietreehouses.co.uk
A new accessible tent is opening at this small site, with five existing tents. It sleeps up to six people, is on one level with ramp access, and is near its own car parking space. Meanwhile the romantic couples’ tent, The Cwtch, gains a private sauna on its lower deck, with river views from the floor-to-ceiling windows, and an outdoor shower. ◆
Two nights from £330 for two, bythewye.uk
Talk about chocolate-box pretty – this thatched cottage curves around its chimney. Within, it’s a round world of timbers and tiling, with Gothicstyle windows and two snug bedrooms, along with a slipper bath in the bathroom. Near Wareham in bluebell woodland, it’s just a 1.5 mile walk to Durdle Door on the coast. The cottage has a cultured past; the former hideaway of bohemian artist Augustus John, it is also believed to have belonged to the family whose ancestor was said to have inspired the character of James Bond. ◆
Seven nights for four from £670, dorsetcoastalcottages.com
Enjoy the remarkable views from the outdoor bathtub for two or from the bed at this cabin in Skye’s scenic Valley of Glendale. Black on the outside, the sleek property is black, white and grey on the inside. Foodies can book a nine-course private dining experience or go foraging to make their own lunch. ◆
A week for four from £1,839, boutique-retreats.co.uk
No children or dogs are allowed at this two-bedroom cottage but that means you can take in the spectacular views of Bamburgh Castle from the patio and gardens in peace. It’s just minutes on foot from the golden beach that helped Bamburgh win the Which? title of the nation’s favourite seaside destination for the third year running. ◆
Three nights from £794, coquetcottages.co.uk
Fans of The White Company rejoice – you can now stay in a thatched Cornish cottage decorated in collaboration with the luxury brand. From the minute you step through the door, it’ll feel like you’re in a White Company catalogue. The air is scented with Lime & Bay, cashmere throws are draped over sofas, and the two bedrooms have fine linens and the fluffiest dressing gowns. Outside, there’s a hot tub in the garden, and the sandy beach of Perranporth on the north Cornish coast is just ten minutes away. ◆
A week for four from £1,695, uniquehomestays.com
Whisk families and friends away on a wellness break (21–24 September) at these five self-catering properties. Take a breathwork class, practise daily yoga and try the benefits of cold-water immersion before sweating it out in a sauna by the sea.
Three nights for £995 per person, based on five sharing, atlantatrevonebay.com
If an outdoor pool, cinema, hot tub and tennis courts aren’t enough when staying in one of the five stone properties at this small estate, guests now have access to a wellness centre, offering morning yoga, lunchtime fitness or spa treatments. ◆
From £450 a night for two, templeguitingmanor.co.uk
See street art from Banksy and work from Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin plus other contemporary artists among more than 300 exhibits on show in Suffolk from June to October. The art will be displayed in three venues: at Moyse’s Hall Museum, Bury St Edmunds; the National Horseracing Museum, Newmarket; and Haverhill Arts Centre. It includes Banksy’s Sandcastle Girl, painted on a wall in Lowestoft during his ‘spraycation’ to East Anglia in 2021, and his Hula Hoop Girl, which originally appeared on the wall of a beauty salon in Nottingham. ◆
whatsonwestsuffolk.co.uk
It’s already pretty plush on Belmond’s Royal Scotsman. For an even more first-class experience, you can lie back in one of two lacquered treatment rooms and enjoy a tailor-made Dior massage as the train wends its way through mountains and valleys. Also new are adventure-focused trips and a culinary journey with Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin. ◆
belmond.com
This one is just the ticket for rail enthusiasts – the 16-mile heritage railway has reopened after extensive restoration during a three-year hiatus. Visitors can ride it from Stanhope on selected summer weekends for a fun day out at Auckland Castle, one of the best-preserved bishop’s palaces in Europe, sitting on 150 acres of parkland. ◆
aucklandproject.org
Pet lovers can now take their pups on the 15-minute helicopter flight to the Isles of Scilly, where they can sniff their way round the Tresco Abbey Gardens, stay overnight in a Flying Boat cottage on Tresco (during Dog-Friendly February) or at the dogfriendly Hell Bay Hotel on neighbouring Bryher.
Pets £70 return, humans £289, penzancehelicopters.co.uk
Learn how rewilding helps golden eagles, red squirrels and wood ants at this freeto-enter centre near Loch Ness in the Highlands. The centre acts as a gateway to the 10,000-acre Dundreggan estate, where Trees for Life is restoring the Caledonian forest and its wildlife. After taking in the tree sculpture of reclaimed metal created by artist Helen Denerley, head into the woods with its accessible trails and child-friendly forest experiences. Displays are in both English and Gaelic, with a storytelling bothy showcasing local history and heritage. ◆
visitdundreggan.co.uk
Celebrate the great outdoors and learn how to cook on campfires and where to forage for ingredients during one of the July weekend micro festivals on the Hawarden Estate. Join a sign-writing workshop, enjoy natural wine tasting, paddleboard on the lake or just jump in. Take your own tent or stay in bell tents and huts on-site. ◆
From £330pp in your own tent, thegoodlifesociety.co.uk
Surrealism comes to Shrewsbury this summer with three Dalí sculptures taking centre stage at the market town’s annual Art Trail. The well-known bronze sculpture Surrealist Piano in which the piano’s legs are fashioned as a dancer’s limbs, will be joined by Dalí’s Homage to Terpsichore and Dalinian Dancer. The eight-week festival is themed on movement this year. It opens at the beginning of July and also features work from artists including Banksy, Damien Hirst, Barbara Hepworth and L S Lowry. Among the exhibitions and events is a children’s treasure trail. ◆
shrewsburyartstrail.com
Race into the World of Jumanji at 42mph on the world’s first Jumanji roller-coaster. Mandrill Mayhem sweeps you up through the treetops, flipping you upside down as you ride it either facing forwards or backwards. Two other rides will also feature in the new park section, along with six Jumanji-themed bedrooms in the hotel. ◆
chessington.com
Fancy the ultimate exclusive-use venue for a wow-factor wedding or special occasion? You can now take over the island of Herm; its 40 hotel rooms and 19 self-catering cottages have space for 201 guests. Only a mile and a half long and half a mile wide, the dinky Channel Island is car free. ◆
From £50,000, herm.com
There are few better teachers on meditation and mindfulness than Rajesh Ramani and Smitha Jayakumar, two former monks who worked at the renowned Kamalaya resort in Thailand. Join their first UK retreat from 6–8 June, or one-day courses on 9 and 10 June.
One day from £495, limewoodhotel.co.uk
From forest bathing to foraging, singing at dawn to stargazing, and meditation to mythic storytelling, this new retreat has a fascinating mix of activities. Along with crafts that might include den building or woodwork, they’re all included in the price, which starts at a very reasonable £450 for three nights, including food. The idea is the brainchild of singer Charlotte Church, who opened the retreat at her 46-acre estate, with its waterfalls, pools and caves, to allow guests to really get in tune with nature. ◆
thedreaming.co.uk
If you’re more into wines than wellness, take a look at this offering from The Alverton Hotel in Truro in conjunction with Knightor Winery. The two-night event, from 29 September, kicks off with a five-course dinner accompanied by a Knightor wine flight. The next day, participants head to the Portscatho vineyard for a behindthe-scenes tour and tasting plus a canapé lunch. ◆
From £739 for two, thealverton.co.uk
It's about time Bournemouth laid claim to a hotel to match the charm of its picture-postcard Victorian Pier and glamour of its stunning golden sands, and so here it arrives: The Nici, a five-star, multimillion-pound Shangri-la
Bournemouth has long been a traditional ‘buckets and spades’ seaside destination, known for its red sandstone cliffs, rows of colourful beach huts, seafront family amusements and Blue Flag beaches.
The sun only needs pop its head out from behind a cloud on England's south coast for the holidaymakers and tourists to flock to Bournemouth – a good indication that British summertime has officially begun.
Its warming rays entice thousands of people from far and wide – often making the headlines. However, this summer there is a new reason for Bournemouth to be in
the press – the latest five-star arrival to Bournemouth’s sun-drenched horizon: The Nici.
The luxurious resort perched on Bournemouth’s West Cliff has been a labour of love; a £20 million redevelopment has transformed the wonderful landmark building (formerly The Savoy) into a modern and vibrant 84-bedroom hotel and spa. Fuss has been replaced with fun, while drawing on inspiration from Miami’s South Beach lifestyle (think bold, quirky art, palms in oversized pots and banquette seating), and it seems every media organisation from Country Living Magazine to The Telegraph
‘Guests of The Nici can still feel the sand between their toes and swim in the crystal-clear ocean. Yet, instead of striped deckchairs, sandcastles and fish and chips, there are
has something wonderful to say about it, including The Times, which has named The Nici 'Seaside Hotel of the Year for 2023'.
Guests of The Nici can still feel the sand between their toes and swim in the crystal-clear ocean. Yet, instead of striped deckchairs, sandcastles and fish and chips, there are poolside loungers, manicured gardens, a restaurant with alfresco terrace, sunken firepits and a luxury wellness spa – a first for Bournemouth. There's also an indoor cinema, outdoor heated pool with sea views, and an activity centre with a host of equipment that can be
borrowed, free of charge, for the day – including bicycles, paddleboards, bodyboards, kayaks, beach games and yoga mats. There are family and dog-friendly rooms, exquisite suites with spectacular views, and garden hot tubs.
Visit this summer while the sun is shining and be sure to sink into a cabana beside the palm-green pool with a glass of South Beach Punch in your hand, relaxing to the sound of the waves lapping against the shore.
The Nici has successfully redefined the English seaside holiday experience.
Double rooms from £375, thenici.com
poolside loungers, manicured gardens... firepits and a luxury wellness spa’
The multi-award winning musical adapted from the much-loved Roald Dahl book, has won over 100 international awards, including 24 for Best Musical.
With book by Dennis Kelly and original songs by Tim Minchin, Matilda The Musical is the story of an extraordinary little girl, armed with a vivid imagination and a sharp mind, who dares to take a stand and change her own destiny.
A tonic for audiences of all ages, this anarchic production continues Roald Dahl's theme of bravery and standing up for what you believe in, inspiring young audiences all over the world.
The West End production is currently playing to audiences in the Cambridge Theatre on the corner of Earlham Street facing Seven Dials. Your visit to London this summer just isn’t complete without a trip to experience Matilda The Musical
Matilda The Musical is taking bookings now with excellent availability mid-week throughout the summer holidays. Tickets priced from £20. Call 020 3925 2998 to book.
For the full performance schedule visit www.matildathemusical.com
We discovered rather quickly that walking around Cambridge takes time, as intriguing buildings beckon seductively along every street.
The first one for us was the famous Fitzwilliam Museum (free entry, as with most Cambridge museums), a wonderful whirlwind of armour, ceramics, art, and fascinating Egyptian and Roman antiquities. By the time we’d explored, elevenses beckoned so we dived into local institution Fitzbillies for a coffee and their famous Chelsea buns (very sticky, very sweet).
Next up, a college crawl. Cambridge University’s colleges are sprinkled across the
city. We began at King's. It’s the grandaddy of them all, partly due to its enormous chapel and famously talented choir.
Note that entry costs £11 – and visitors can’t see much more than the chapel itself –but it is truly impressive. Highlights include the oak chancel screen, gifted by King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn, which runs the width of the chapel.
There are soaring stained-glass windows, a valuable Rubens painting (Adoration of the Magi), and the most intricate fan-vaulted ceiling. Top tip – visit during term time and enjoy the chapel for free by attending evensong (daily except Sundays at 5.30pm, queues from around 4.45pm).
You don’t need to be an academic to stay in this smart and stylish university city. Cambridge is small and everything is strollable. There’s plenty to fill a weekend – from drifting along the river in a punt to wandering around the dreamy colleges and world-class museums
A spot of lunch at the excellent Senate bistro and it was time to see a couple of the smaller colleges. Most are free to enter, so it’s easy to dip in and out as you please. At Christ's College there is a surprisingly large and interesting garden and a 17thcentury outdoor pool with pavilion.
At Emmanuel College we admired the chapel and took a peek into the beautiful Georgian dining room.
On the way to our hotel, we dawdled around the shops –everything from high-street names to boutique and vintage. I clocked the Cambridge Gin Laboratory, where you can book yourself onto a gin tasting or gin cocktail-making workshop. I earmarked it for another time and contented myself with a G&T at the Eagle pub.
It was the drinking hole during the 1950s of scientists Watson and Crick. They famously announced here that they had discovered the exact structure of DNA. Allied air officers during WWII were also regulars. They used lighters, wax candles and lipstick to write their names on the pub ceiling – still visible today.
The Varsity Hotel & Spa has a great location; on a quiet road, an
PREVIOUS PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: KING'S COLLEGE AT SUNRISE; EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES, FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM; INSIDE THE KING'S CHAPEL. THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ROOFTOP BAR AT THE VARSITY HOTEL & SPA; BRIDGE OF SIGHS, ST JOHNS COLLEGE; SCUDAMORE’S QUAYSIDE PUNTING STATION. FOLLOWING PAGE: THE FOLIO BAR & KITCHEN AT THE FELLOWS HOUSE
easy walk away from all the sights. Our room looked out over the Cambridge rooftops from its spacious balcony, complete with table and chairs and outdoor sofa. We took advantage of the Elemis Glassworks spa, with its sauna, steam room and hot tub. It’s located next door to the main hotel building, in an old warehouse, once part of a brewery. I wished I’d booked a massage or facial as the spa menu was tempting, but there was still plenty to look forward to, as dinner plans lay ahead.
First, though, came an aperitif at the hotel's rooftop bar – one of the best places in Cambridge to sip and sightsee, with its 360-degree city views. At the hotel’s top
floor restaurant, Six, my starter of pan-seared scallops was perfectly cooked, as was the main course of roasted salmon with fire-roasted peppers and giant couscous.
I was feeling replete by the time the dessert menu came. However, I did manage a couple of spoonful’s of my husband’s sticky toffee pudding, much to his annoyance!
Early the next morning the sun was shining – the perfect time for punting. Scudamore’s have a base near the hotel. We opted for a chauffeured trip – steering these flatbottomed boats yourself, using only a long pole, is fun but tricky. Our punter, Henry, was a local zoology graduate. He pointed out a couple of kingfisher nests along the
‘Early the next morning the sun was shining – the perfect time for punting... we opted for a chauffeured trip – steering these flat-bottomed boats yourself, using only a long pole, is fun but tricky.’
Painted Love: Renaissance Marriage Portraits
Until 1 October 2023
Michael Simpson: Drawing towards Painting
Until 17 September 2023
Lucie Rie: The Adventure of Pottery
Against the backdrop of a renowned collection experience critically acclaimed exhibitions of historical and contemporary art, lectures, concerts, workshops and events or indulge in our Garden Café.
14 July 2023 to 7 January 2024
‘Without Hands’ The Art of Sarah Biffin
George Shaw
29 September 2023 to 14 January 2024
A Corner of a Foreign Field
Gwen John: Art and Life in London and Paris
Édouard Vuillard
27 October 2023 to 14 April 2024
The Poetry of the Everyday Lauren Child
The Art of Illustration
Rembrandt
A Life in Print
Against the backdrop of a renowned collection experience critically acclaimed exhibitions of historical and contemporary art, lectures, concerts, workshops and events or indulge in our Garden Café
Henri Matisse
Master of Line
Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4DB www.holburne.org
Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4DB www.holburne.org
From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a dreamy hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and seek the magic of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over 260 luxury abodes to choose from, uncover our curated collection of luxury retreats, set in unique locations across the UK.STYLISH RETREATS IN THE UK’S HOTTEST LOCATIONS
riverbank, a heron, some Canada Geese and ‘teenage’ swans, still with grey feathers amid the white. We sat back, enjoying seeing the colleges from the water, and listening to tales of the city and its landmarks, including The Bridge of Sighs (based on the one in Venice) and the Mathematical Bridge (curved, even though made up of only straight pieces of wood).
The temperature was climbing now so, after a tasty lamb wrap from the daily food market (in Market Square) we walked to Grantchester. Hire a bike if you want to do it student style. This pretty village is famed as the former home of war poet Rupert Brooke, who partied here with the likes of Virginia Woolf, EM Forster and Betrand Russell.
More recently it has been the setting for the popular TV series Grantchester. It's a pleasurable 45-minute or so meander alongside the river, past the college ‘Backs’ and with views over Grantchester Meadows. Our reward at the end was The Orchard Tea Garden, where it would
have been rude not to indulge in cream tea while sitting in deckchairs under the shade of the apple trees.
Dinner that evening was at The Folio Bar & Kitchen at the recently opened Fellows House hotel. It is just outside the main city drag but an easy 15-minute walk. It’s a buzzy, glamorous place, with divine cocktails and an inventive menu, including a wonderful choice of vegetarian and vegan dishes. I chose creamy burrata cheese with basil, grilled pears and tomatoes followed by meltingly good salt-aged fillet steak served with fries and portobello mushrooms. Another pudding snatch took place, this time with warm brownie and ice-cream. I’m still not forgiven.
Double rooms at Varsity Hotel & Spa from £176 per night, including access to the spa and gym or from £225 to also include breakfast, varsityhotel.co.uk
For more information on punting with Scudamore's visit scudamores.com or take a look at visitcambridge.org
Move over Napa and forget the South of France – we discover some of the UK’s most beautiful vineyards, where you can explore the vines, sample delicious wines, and spend a night or two…
Text by Sophie Farrah1Lympstone Manor
With breathtaking views over the Exe Estuary, acclaimed chef Michael Caines MBE’s five-star luxury manor house hotel in Devon is home to 21 beautiful bedrooms, six luxurious shepherd's huts, a Michelinstarred restaurant and a stunning outdoor pool and ‘pool house’ brasserie. Caines’ passion for wine is fundamental to the Lympstone experience, with two basement cellars comprising 600 bins, a winetasting room and a small vineyard, which guests are encouraged to explore at their leisure, or on a guided tour in the summer months. Its very first creation is the Triassic Pinot Noir 2020, a deliciously fruity red wine, which guests can sample in the bar or restaurant(s). Several of the beautiful bedrooms and luxurious shepherd's huts have outdoor baths overlooking the vines, and with the vineyard's first sparkling wine expected in 2023, there’s never been a better time to visit…
Rooms start at £360, lympstonemanor.co.uk
Close to the cathedral city of Chichester in the heart of West Sussex, Tinwood Estate has a reputation for producing fabulous sparkling wines. With views over the vines, three deluxe lodges blend effortlessly into the rural surroundings. Each one contains an extra-large king-size bed facing floor-to-ceiling doors, which fully open onto a private deck. There’s also a huge
bathroom with a walk-in rain shower and a two-person Jacuzzi bath complete with a TV. A welcome crate contains tea, coffee, fresh milk, and – most importantly – a bottle of Tinwood’s delicious wine and some homemade nibbles. Behind the lodges amid the trees is a barrel sauna for guest use, and the vineyard’s chic, contemporary tasting room and terrace is only a few yards away. Spring 2023 saw the arrival of a new on-site restaurant, which dishes up modern British tapas using local seasonal produce.
From £245 per night, tinwoodestate.com
At its picture-perfect Soil Association–certified vineyard in East Sussex, Oxney is the largest single-estate producer of English organic wine. Its 35 acres of vines produce around 20% of all organic grapes grown in the UK. Vineyard, winery and tasting tours take place all year-round, with the option to add a picnic lunch of local cheeses and Oxney’s very own charcuterie, all packed up in a rustic willow basket. Accommodation is similarly thoughtful; the stunning Vineyard House sleeps ten. An old farmhouse filled with quirky, characterful original features, it has been decorated in a stylish and serene Nordic style. Alternatively, there are two similarly stylish shepherd's huts that overlook the vines; each has a double bed, small kitchen, bathroom and a lovely outside space, as well as a complimentary bottle of Oxney’s delicious organic wine.
Huts from £105 (two-night minimum stay), Vineyard House from £997 (three-night minimum stay), oxneyestate.com 4
In Gloucestershire, Three Choirs is one of England's oldest vineyards. Today there are 75 acres of beautiful and abundant vines here, which make Three Choirs’ award-winning wines. It is also home to a state-of-the-art winery and eight light and airy bedrooms, with super king beds and private patios overlooking the vine-clad valley. A recent addition is three luxurious lodges; glass-walled and wood-framed, each one has a veranda on two sides with stunning views of the landscape, while a tempting roll-top bath awaits inside. Regular tours and tastings take place and, if you’re feeling peckish, head to the brasserie for some tapasstyle small plates, and a bottle of Gloucestershire’s finest.
Rooms start at £185, three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk
Lovingly run by the Fletcher family at the foot of the Yorkshire Wolds, Ryedale Vineyards is one of the most northerly commercial vineyards in the UK. Here, all aspects of wine production, from pruning and harvesting to pressing, fermenting, bottling and labelling are carried out by hand in a converted byre. Home to over 18,000 vines, the vineyard can be explored in an informal guided tour that also includes a visit to the winery and an opportunity to try Ryedale’s wines and ciders with a selection of local cheeses. After all that, you might need a lie down. Thankfully, there are two beautiful bedrooms, located in a chocolate-box farmhouse; Fox is a cosy room is tucked away in the eaves, and Pheasant has beautiful views over the Wolds. A full Yorkshire breakfast is included, and guests are welcome to help themselves to Ryedale’s tasty wines from the honesty bar.
Rooms start at £130, ryedalevineyards.co.uk
This beautiful boutique vineyard sits on the edge of the Axe Valley in East Devon and specialises in producing sparkling and still wines made by minimal interventional methods. Nestled beneath the ancient hill fort of Musbury Castle, Castlewood is lovingly tended to by the Corbett Family, who follow the philosophy of quality not quantity; their small batch wines undergo no filtration and are left to clarify naturally. The vineyard is also home to Newhouse and Wonover – two Grade 2-listed holiday cottages set in spacious, pretty gardens with gorgeous views. Both sleep six and have lovely period features, whilst Wonover also boats a wood-fired hot tub. But for a truly unique experience, book the Bluebird Bus – a former 1970’s Canadian school bus that has been lovingly converted into a completely private and ingeniously designed off grid getaway, complete with double bed, kitchen, bathroom, spacious living area and countryside views. Guests are encouraged to drop by the cellar door, wander up to the vineyards and enjoy a glass of Castlewood amongst the vines.
Wonover £742-£2467, Newhouse £679-£1883, Bluebird Bus £470-£836 (all per week, short breaks available on request), castlewoodvineyard.co.uk
Tucked away in the woods of Black Chalk Vineyard in Hampshire, Wild Escapes have created four stunning treehouses – the first ever to be built on a vineyard in the UK. Crafted using local materials and techniques that minimise their effect on the local land, each one looks out over rows and rows of picturesque vines. Inside, there are chic Scandi-style interiors, a luxurious
double bed, a welcome hamper, a contemporary kitchen, and vast windows throughout, making the most of the stunning views. Outside on the terrace there’s a huge zinc bath – a perfect spot for sipping on a glass of chilled fizz made from the vines visible from the tub. If you can bear to tear yourself away, you might like to head over to the winery for lunch or a guided tasting.
From £274 per night, wildescapes.com
Set amid 70 acres of rolling hills and woodlands near Rye in East Sussex, Tillingham Winery offers natural wine, seasonal food, and a choice of stylish accommodation. In what was formerly a hop barn, there are now 11 serene bedrooms with stunning views across the estate and original Victorian farmstead. All are beautiful, but Room 11, with its freestanding bathtub, is particularly special. In the summer months, two smart bell
tents
Once you’ve unpacked, explore the vineyard and sample the delicious wines made here on a guided tour and tasting, before tucking into wood-fired pizza in the barn, or the fourcourse garden menu in Tillingham’s beautiful field-to-fork restaurant.
Rooms start at £165, tillingham.com
With 265 stunning acres and a production capacity of one million bottles, Denbies is one of England's largest single-estate vineyards. Located just outside the historic market town of Dorking in Surrey, it’s also home to a 17-bedroom hotel, Vineyard Restaurant and ‘Wine Library’, all with fabulous views of
the vines and surrounding Surrey Hills. Various vineyard tours and tastings take place daily, including The Secret Vineyard Tasting Trail, which is exclusively for hotel guests and a unique opportunity to explore areas of the vineyard not normally accessible to the general public. For a Napa Valley–esque experience, book one of the restaurant’s private cabanas for dinner, and enjoy locally sourced produce and wine produced on the estate while looking out across the vineyard.
Rooms start at £170, denbies.co.uk
Rathfinny
Renowned for producing some of the very best English sparkling wine in the world, Rathfinny Wine Estate in Sussex has also recently achieved B Corp status, meaning that its environmental and social impact is of the upmost priority. Its award-winning B&B is located in The Flint Barns – a cluster of characterful buildings. Here, guests can enjoy the picture-perfect landscape among contemporary,
cosy furnishings; there are ten comfortable en-suite bedrooms, some with vineyard views, and there’s also a sleek restaurant, terrace, and cosy lounge area. Outside, guests can enjoy a glass of ‘Sussex Sparkling’ in the pretty courtyard, or on top of the open bank that overlooks the neat rows of vines. Vineyard and winery tours take place all year-round, and no stay would be complete without a portfolio tasting, where you’re able to try Rathfinny’s range of delicious Sussex wines and spirits.
Rooms start at £110, rathfinnyestate.com
Standing by a waterfall, watching the endlessly falling whitewater and listening to that rushing, roaring, thundering sound, in awe of its power, is an uplifting experience. And it’s beneficial, too.
The air around waterfalls has the highest concentration of negative ions found in nature. These are atmospheric molecules charged with electricity, and exposure to them can ease stress, regulate mood and even reduce depression.
Watching the unceasing cascade down is mesmerising, as is the ‘white noise’ sound, used in sleep apps for its soothing and relaxing properties. Although the water flow may not be at its fiercest in the summer months, it’s the best time to be spritzed with that fresh, cooling spray –and to enter the world behind the waterfall and gaze out through that misty curtain.
Thundering 65ft down a craggy rock face is Aira Force in Cumbria, formed by Aira Beck (stream) making its way down the fells to Ullswater. ‘Force’ or ‘foss’ comes from
the Old Norse word for waterfall. Follow the waterfall trail from the National Trust car park for the best view of the walls and the two stone bridges arching over the plummeting water. In the 1780s the Howard family of Greystoke Castle landscaped the area around the Force, planting over half a million trees, and creating a network of bridges and paths. Around a quarter of a mile higher up is another fall, High Force.
Beautiful to behold, the frothing, fizzing, foaming flow of a waterfall is one of nature’s most impressive spectacles. Here are some of Britain’s best...
Text by Adrienne Wyper
Much more impressive than its more westerly namesake is County Durham’s High Force. This awe-inspiring 70ft cascade, where the River Tees plunges over a vertical cliff of blocky whinstone, is the UK’s largest volume of water falling over an unbroken drop, when in full spate. The stunning view was painted by JMW Turner in 1816. The north side is privately owned and you have to pay to walk to the falls, but approach from The Pennine Way on the south side for free access. Walk around two miles from Bowlees Visitor Centre, across the suspension footbridge, to go along the river via Low Force – as the name suggests, not as high! – up to High Force.
The easy-to-follow walk to Hareshaw Linn (‘linn’ is old dialect for waterfall), near Bellingham in Northumberland National Park, passes through a formerly industrial landscape, now reclaimed by nature. The path winds up the damp, deep gorge, lush with ferns, mosses, liverworts and lichen cloaking damp boulders and branches, crossing Hareshaw Burn, a tributary of the North Tyne, via six bridges, offering beautiful views of the bubbling burn beneath. By the sixth bridge there is a tree stump studded with coins, for good luck. Follow the sound around the bend, down stone-slab steps to the Linn, tumbling down over the 30ft sandstone cliff to the pool below.
The Peak District National Park has plenty of waterfalls. Fair Brook flows down the lower slopes of Kinder Scout, the region’s highest point at 2800ft (famed for the ‘mass trespass’ of 1932, when walkers took to the hill to protest against lack of access), with several waterfalls as well as natural pools – some deep enough for a dip if you fancy a wild swim as well as a walk. Kinder Downfall is the region’s highest waterfall, at 98ft. Its flow can be temperamental, but in windy conditions it appears to flow upwards!
‘This awe-inspiring 70ft cascade, where the River Tees plunges over a vertical cliff of blocky whinstone, is the UK’s largest volume of water falling over an unbroken drop, when in full spate.’
LEAD IMAGE PREVIOUS PAGE: ADMIRE ONE OF SCOTLAND’S MOST SPECTACULAR – AND MOST PHOTOGRAPHED –WATERFALLS, BRACKLINN FALLS, FROM THE RECENTLY RESTORED WEATHERED-STEEL FOOTBRIDGE THAT SPANS ITS WOODED GORGE ABOVE CALLANDER, NEAR LOCH LOMOND
On the North Devon coast near Hartland, and accessible on foot via the South West Coast Path, you can enjoy the rare, spectacular sight of white, tumbling waters on a coastal cliff. In a ruggedly beautiful area of hanging valleys and high cliffs, Speke’s Mill Mouth waterfall drops 157ft over a sheer cliff edge, then tumbles downward over boulders onto the rock-slabbed beach to meet the sea.
At the head of the Bride Valley in Dorset lie the thatched cottages of the picturesque village of Littlebredy. (It really is little, too: population around 100.) As part of Bridehead House’s 19th-century garden redesign, the river was dammed to create a lake and from here it flows through the grounds then gushes noisily over a drop.
Pack a picnic to enjoy on the expansive adjoining grassy area, then paddle in the river. Scramble up behind the fall to gaze over the lake and snap the perfect shot from the little stone footbridge behind.
The southeast of England is not renowned for its mountains, so waterfalls are, naturally, hard to find. The next best thing is the constructed Grand Cascade within the grounds of Blenheim Palace, designed by the renownedly naturalistic landscape gardener Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown in the 1760s. Now a Unesco World Heritage Site, it forms part of a complex dam structure at the western end of the lake he created across the
estate, with a delicate arched bridge offering the perfect photo opportunity. Home to the Dukes of Marlborough, Blenheim is the former home of Sir Winston Churchill, who was born here.
We may have poet Robert Burns to thank for the gorgeously wooded landscape at the Falls of Bruar at the southern edge of the Cairngorms National Park, in Perthshire. When he visited in 1787, Burns found the surroundings somewhat bare and was inspired to write The Humble Petition of Bruar Water to the landowner, the 4th Duke of Atholl. Written from the water’s viewpoint, it entreats: ‘Would then my noble master please/ To grant my highest wishes/He’ll shade my banks wi’ tow’ring trees/And bonie spreading bushes.’ The Duke took Burns’s advice and, in an innovative forerunner of modern seed bombs, he fired Scots pine and larch seeds from the opposite bank from a cannon. The lowest fall of peat-brown water through the forested rocky gorge has an arched stone bridge, and a natural rock span just downstream.
‘On the Isle of Skye beneath the Black Cuillins are the famous Fairy Pools. This series of small falls are renowned for colour and clarity: turquoise so clear that you can pick out mossy pebbles in the depths. Some are swimmable – brrr!’
Around the Falls of Clyde in this species-rich wooded gorge, near New Lanark, southeast of Glasgow, you might spot kingfishers, dippers and ravens, with swooping bats, badgers and even otters. But the main attractions are the four waterfalls within four miles. At 88ft high, Corra Linn is the second one you’ll see, and the most spectacular. It was described by William Wordsworth as ‘the Clyde’s most majestic daughter’. Located by the falls is the most famous Scottish country clothing brand, House of Bruar, which houses a fabulous food hall perfect for picnic essentials.
Just upstream is Scotland’s first hydroelectric power station, harnessing the power of the falls to power textile mills in New Lanark, completed in 1927.
On the Isle of Skye beneath the Black Cuillins are the famous Fairy Pools. This series of small falls are renowned for colour and clarity: turquoise so clear that you can pick out mossy pebbles in the depths. Some are swimmable –brrr! Further north is Mealt Falls, which cliff-dives from Loch Mealt to the rocky coast below. From here you can also see Kilt Rock, with its pleated-effect basalt folds.
Near Ballymena, Co Antrim, in Glenariff, largest of the nine glens of Antrim, are no fewer than nine viewing points for three waterfalls on a choice of four walking routes. All are clearly waymarked, with wooden fenced boardwalks incorporating flights of steps that allow close-up views of the falls, where white froth and foam contrasts against the dark waters, the lush foliage lining the gorge, and possibly even local wildlife such as red squirrels, hen harriers and Irish hares. At the top of the walkable area enjoy more expansive views down to the Irish Sea and across it to the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland.
In Bannau Brycheiniog (previously known as the Brecon Beacons) National Park is an area known as ‘waterfall country’, with Britain's greatest concentration of cascades, caves and gorgeous gorges. The Four Falls Trail takes in Sgwd (Welsh for ‘waterfall’) Clun-Gwyn, Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn, Sgwd y Pannwr and Sgwd yr Eira. The last, which means ‘waterfall of snow’, is the best known, most popular, and the most photographed – not least because you can experience the thrill of walking behind the cascading curtain of water. Be prepared: you’ll almost certainly get wet on the rough and slippery path used by sheep farmers – but it’s worth it!
Pistyll Rhaeadr, meaning ‘spring of the waterfall’, lies in the Berwyn Mountains, just inside Wales, in Powys, west of Oswestry and Shrewsbury at the end of a narrow singletrack road. At 240ft high, it’s often hailed as Britain’s
highest single-drop waterfall, although some argue that the drop is in three stages… Either way it’s a breathtaking sight: a narrow white ribbon falling behind a water-hewn stone arch. From the top you can see Snowdonia to the west and the hills of Shropshire to the east.
‘Sgwd yr Eira... which means ‘waterfall of snow', is the best known... not least because you can experience the thrill of walking behind the cascading curtain of water.’
Nestled amidst the breathtaking landscapes of Scotland, The House of Bruar provides a haven for discerning travellers seeking a unique shopping experience. Step into our expansive shop, where you’ll discover a wealth of meticulously curated collections from country clothing and accessories, to homeware and gifts, each carefully selected to captivate and delight with luxury natural fibres like cashmere, cotton and linen and exclusive pure new wool British tweeds at the core. Or why not indulge your culinary senses at our award-winning Foodhall, 600 seater restaurant or not-to-be-missed fish and chip shop featuring succulent lobster. For those unable to visit, our eagerly anticipated Autumn/Winter mail order catalogue and extensive online collection promises the chance to bring the Bruar Life to your doorstep.
The House of Bruar, by Blair Atholl Perthshire, PH18 5TW. To request our upcoming catalogue or find out more details about these sneak preview outfits shown, please call 01796 483236. WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM
As cycle routes go, they don’t come much more scenic than this. My son and I are peddling along the impressive limestone gorge formed by the River Wye, which circumnavigates 300ft Chee Tor. Our track is the old Midland Railway, which stopped functioning in 1968, leaving a flat route with views of the surrounding countryside as well as from the magnificent Monsal Viaduct.
the jam instead. His lack of stirring caused quite a stir; the candlemaker’s wife, Mrs Wilson, heard how well the botched pudding had gone down, obtained its recipe, and made the sweet treats from her 17th-century cottage, now the Pudding Shop.
They still make them here by hand, according to the original secret recipe, though they’ll share it with you if you sign up for a pudding-making session. Or, like us, you can just tuck into one in the tearoom. With a bit of custard or cream it slips down a treat after all that cycling (you can even accompany it with Bakewell Pudding gin or cider).
Along the Monsal Trail’s eight and a half miles are a series of well-lit tunnels, some about a quarter of a mile long, where temperatures seemingly dip to within a degree of a dementor’s breath.
The end of the line is Bakewell, and where better to stop for a little sustenance than The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop. Yes, Bakewell Pudding, not tart, which, as our waitress tells us with a smile, is “something invented by Mr Kipling” .
The pastry, jam and almond pudding was created by accident in 1860 at a local inn, when the cook neglected to stir the egg mixture into the pastry so spread it atop
Earn your calories by hiking and biking your way around the Peak District and stop along the way to indulge in the area’s Bakewell pudding, gingerbread, artisan cheese, and gourmet meals
That’s the beauty of the Peak District: you can earn your calories by hiking and biking, then cash them in on all the amazing food and drink in the vicinity. And you’ll be surprised by how much there is.
Just a four-minute cycle from Bakewell is Thornbridge Brewery, where the delicious tasting of six craft beers might put a wobble in your wheels. Their first bitter, Lord Marples, was produced using a secondhand 10-barrel kit in the grounds of co-owner Jim Harrison’s Thornbridge Hall in 2005.
Now made in a new brewery, the beer is exported to 35 countries around the world. The convivial taproom sells pizzas with beer in their dough as well as a multitude of different brews. They include the flagship Jaipur IPA (yeast used in its production is used by another drinks producer in Derbyshire, White Peak Distillery; its Wire Works single malt and Shining Cliff gin can be sipped after a tour of their Belper factory).
If your eyelids are starting to feel heavy after all the eating, drinking and exercise, take heart – there are two excellent foodie hotels within a 10-minute drive of
Thornbridge: The Peacock at Rowsley and The Cavendish at Baslow.
As we find, there is more feasting to be had at both, starting in the Peacock’s beamed bar with its settles, open fire and small alcove where a sparkling peacock image is emblazoned on the wall tiles. Here, we tuck into delicious hot sourdough and treacle bread as we enjoy a pre-dinner drink (try the Swift Nick or Bakewell Best, which are brewed locally).
The main event is served on original Mouseman tables in the dark-green dining room, and it’s superb. My starter of scallop with seaweed and tempura cauliflower is perfectly cooked, followed by the tastiest of vegetarian wellingtons with mushrooms on the side. My son, meanwhile, rhapsodises over his beautifully cooked and seasoned estate venison.
It’s equally as good at The Cavendish at Baslow, the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire’s hotel, where we devour delicious starters of tuna with seaweed and glazed pork cheek before moving onto roast celeriac cannelloni (me) and a exquisite taste of Chatsworth beef (him). Better still, in the airy, thoughtfully designed bedrooms with views over rolling fields, there’s a generous supply of luxury Chatsworth biscuits should you get the midnight munchies.
Breakfast at both hotels runs the gamut from toasted bacon sandwich or baked avocado to kippers and a full English, ideal to fuel a yomp on the 1,000-acre Chatsworth Estate parkland created by Capability Brown. There’s plenty to see as well as the magnificent house itself, including the One Arch Bridge close to a ruined mill, and Queen Mary’s Bower, a stone platform built when Mary Queen of Scots was held at Chatsworth.
Better still, you can hike between the two hotels on a 90-minute scenic route that leads along the River Derwent right in front of the stately pile itself. That means that if you
want to base yourself in one hotel rather than both, you can easily head out on foot and have lunch in the other. Be sure, too, to visit the Chatsworth farm shop with its estate beef and venison among its offerings, as well as rose-pink gin.
Another day, another cycle route. This one, the Tissington Trail, starts in Ashbourne, where the timberframed Ashbourne Gingerbread Shop is a superb place to stock up with treats for the trail. Made by hand on a daily basis from a recipe that was allegedly supplied by French prisoners of war billeted in the town during the Napoleonic
Wars, the gingerbread people are deliciously buttery with just a hint of spice. They’re a bargain at a pound a pop and perfect for a scooby snack on the hoof.
‘Better still, you can hike between the two hotels on a 90-minute scenic route that leads along the River Derwent right in front of the stately pile itself. That means that if you want to base yourself in one hotel rather than both, you can easily head out on foot and have lunch in the other’
While the Tissington Trail may not be as scenic as the Monsal trail, and it has a distinct uphill incline as you head north towards Parsley Hay on the 13-mile route, its advantage is that you can leave it at Thorpe, cycle through the village to Dovedale car park, then enjoy a stroll through the vale, with its famous stepping stones.
Or keep going north and veer off the trail at the end to Hartington, a pretty village in the Dales that feels like a prosperous market town, complete with a duck pond. There are proper meals on offer at the Devonshire Arms, but I recommend stocking up for an impromptu picnic at the quaint Old Cheese Shop, which sells a tasty range from the nearby Hartington Creamery. The Dovedale Blue is good, as is the Peakland White with chilli, but my vote goes to the Hartington Stilton, creamier and less crumbly than other Stiltons.
“We cut into a new 8kg Stilton every day,” says owner Chris Roberts, relating that Derbyshire’s Stilton was originally produced in the Duke of Devonshire’s creamery in 1900 and later held a warrant to King George V in the 1930s. “That really put Hartington on the map although the stilton production has now gone from industrial to artisan.”
Although we’ve had the cheese course, our foodie journey isn’t over, for the complete experience, we decide to add cutlery and crockery to the mix. First up, we visit The David Mellor Country Shop at Hathersage for a fascinating
tour around the cutting-edge round factory, designed by Sir Michael Hopkins. Perusing the range of cutlery in the Design Museum, from the cutlery used by Sir Ranulph Fiennes on his Transglobe Expedition to that used as ceremonial tableware in Downing Street, we can see why the late David Mellor was nicknamed the ‘cutlery king’.
He didn’t confine himself to cutlery, though – many items synonymous with the typical British street scene were designed by him, including bus shelters, traffic lights, litter bins and postboxes, which are all on show here. There’s superb food too in the Riverside Kitchen, a cafe where everything was designed by David’s son Corin, with a menu of superb soups, salads and sourdough sandwiches.
‘Although we’ve had the cheese course, our foodie journey isn’t over, for the complete experience, we decide to add cutlery and crockery to the mix... we can see why the late David Mellor was nicknamed the ‘cutlery king’
Work it all off with a walk at nearby Stanage Edge, channelling your inner Keira Knightley from the Pride & Prejudice film as you gaze over the stunning views of the Dark Peak moorlands.
potteries, they source clay locally here and produce their own glazes. On a tour, we see just how many stages there are in the production process – the decorated mugs, for instance, take three weeks to make and pass through 25 different pairs of hands.
We gaze into the flames in the 164ft kiln, one of nine on site, and watch a specialist potter make it all look easy before we try to make our own creations on the potter’s wheel.
All I’ll say is that it’s nowhere near as easy as it looks. In future, I’m definitely sticking to eating from dishes rather than making them.
To add crockery to our cutlery, our final stop is Denby Pottery Village, about an hour south. Unlike many
Jane Knight and her son were guests of Visit Peak District & Derbyshire on a foodie trail. Rooms at The Peacock at Rowsley cost from £175, B&B; thepeacockatrowsley.com . Rooms at The Cavendish at Baslow cost from £216, B&B; devonshirehotels.co.uk
For more information go to visitpeakdistrict.com
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Tucked away in the beautiful rolling folds of West Sussex, the 12,000-acre Goodwood Estate has been the family seat of the Dukes of Richmond since 1697. Today, alongside its reputation as England’s greatest sporting estate, it is home to an elegant hotel, self-catering cottages, restaurants, a farm shop, health club and more, plus miles of walking trails and a plethora of extraordinary experiences, making it a truly remarkable place to spend a weekend (or longer...), as I was lucky enough to discover…
Over the course of the year, the estate plays host to several world-famous events; first up is the Festival of Speed – motorsports' ultimate summer garden party. Next is the Qatar Goodwood Festival – also known as ‘Glorious Goodwood’ – a thrilling week of horse racing at the estate’s racecourse, which is renowned for being the most beautiful in the country. September sees Goodwood Revival; the only historic race meeting in the world that is staged entirely to a period theme, and is as much about
When you hear the word Goodwood, perhaps you think of motorsports, horse racing or even golf, and you’d be right, but there is so much more to this remarkable estate than its sporting attractions alone
recreating the fashion and culture of the postwar years as it is about historic racecars. The year 2023 is also a particularly special one for the estate as it celebrates Goodwood 75, which marks several anniversaries, including 75 years since the renowned Goodwood Motor Circuit opened in 1948. If you’re not able to visit during one of these extraordinary events, then fear not; Goodwood has plenty to offer all year-round.
At the heart of the estate proudly sits Goodwood House, which is undoubtedly one of the finest stately homes in England today. As the residence of the Duke and Duchess of Richmond and Gordon, this captivating country house offers both historic opulence and the
charm and warmth of a family home. Much like the rest of the estate, the house is immaculately well-kept. Unlike the faded grandeur of many similar historic properties, it oozes Regency splendour and is pristine throughout.
The beautiful Yellow Drawing Room is adorned with rich golden silk and full-length family portraits, while the lavish Egyptian Dining Room, still used for entertaining today, is a masterclass in decorative opulence.
On certain days of the week, knowledgeable guides lead tours around the impressive property, taking in roaring fires, historic furniture, royal artefacts and one of the most significant private art collections in the country, featuring works by the likes of Van Dyck and Canaletto.
Tours are followed by a scrumptious traditional afternoon tea served in the magnificent Ballroom; designed in the French style of Louis XV, its tall walls are lined with lavish red wallpaper and an astonishing array of artworks in opulent gold frames. Evocative classical music gently plays as delicious loose-leaf tea from Cornwall and glasses of chilled English sparkling wine are served alongside pillow-soft finger sandwiches, homemade fruit scones, and an assortment of delectable cakes and pastries, all made using organic produce from Goodwood’s very own Home Farm. It is an unforgettably splendid experience.
Further elegant interiors can be found across the estate. In addition to the 91-bedroom, four-star Goodwood Hotel, visitors can stay in Hound Lodge, a luxurious 10-bedroom country retreat, complete with its own butler and private chef; or make themselves at home in the estate’s most recent addition, The Pheasantry. It's a picture-perfect Palladianstyle hideaway that sits just behind Goodwood House, within the gated parkland of the estate. True to its name, it is surrounded by handsome game birds that strut around
the surrounding fields, adding to the beautiful backdrop of quintessential English countryside. With views that stretch across the estate to Chichester and the sparkling sea on the horizon beyond, this elegant yet cosy property offers the rare peace, privacy, and seclusion of staying on the estate itself, while feeling like a home away from home.
Inside, there’s a sleek, contemporary kitchen with dining area, a cosy living room with a working fireplace, three beautiful bedrooms and a large master bathroom complete with rich blue tiles, a clawfoot bath and lovely views over the enormous private garden.
There are also plenty of charming touches, such as a welcome hamper filled with local produce, and even a
‘With views that stretch across the estate to Chichester and the sparkling sea on the horizon beyond, this elegant yet cosy property offers the rare peace, privacy, and seclusion of staying on the estate itself, while feeling like a home away from home.’
plush dog bed, bowls and a treat tin, so that pampered pooches can unwind in style too.
If you can tear yourself away from the comfort of the cottage, Goodwood’s Health Club is just a short walk away, where you can take a dip in the swimming pool, work out in the state-of-the-art gym, unwind in the steam room or sauna, or indulge in a restorative treatment.
The signature Wellbeing Face & Body Infusion – 60 heavenly minutes of muscle-melting massage combined with an exceptionally good facial – is an incredibly effective stressbuster.
Goodwood’s impressive wellness offering extends to residential retreats that focus on the likes of gut health, menopause, and the Wim Hof technique. There’s also a busy schedule of fitness and wellbeing classes, including yoga, Pilates, sound-healing sessions and more, while guests are also encouraged to head outside and enjoy the natural beauty of the estate. Hand-illustrated maps outline beautiful walking trails, as well as forest-bathing opportunities, bird-watching hot spots, and more. Having worked up an appetite, the estate’s award-winning flagship restaurant, Farmer, Butcher, Chef is a perfect place to refuel. Located just yards from Goodwood Home Farm, one of the largest lowland organic farms in the UK, the restaurant's menu makes full use of the exceptional ingredients produced here.
Served amid eclectic artwork and rustic pub interiors, generous Butcher’s Boards highlight different cuts of estate-reared beef, pork, and lamb, while other dishes champion seasonal fish, vegetables, and more.
Be sure to leave room for pudding – the wonderful cheese trolley offers a terrific selection of delicious British varieties, including some made on the estate, and the apple crumble soufflé is not to be missed.
Guests of The Pheasantry are also granted access to Goodwood’s chic private members’ club, The Kennels, which once housed the Duke of Richmond’s hunting
‘If you can tear yourself away from the comfort of the cottage, Goodwood’s Health Club is just a short walk away, where you can take a dip in the swimming pool... unwind in the steam room or sauna, or indulge in a restorative treatment’
hounds and is now a stylish and sophisticated spot for a drink or a meal with fabulous views across the estate. Keep an eye out for the shelves of blue-and-white dog bowls that line the elegant entrance hall – these are for The Kennels’ four-legged members, who each get their own bowl hand-painted with his or her name, while their membership fee is donated to charity.
If you’d like to make full use of The Pheasantry’s wellappointed kitchen, the estate’s small but perfectly formed Farm Shop stocks a multitude of mostly local ingredients that can be whipped up into a delicious dinner, including meat and dairy from the estate and bottles of Goodwood’s very own craft gin and beer. There’s also an impressive sushi menu, courtesy of Little Fish’s ‘Sushi in the Sticks’ service, created by Michelin-trained, multi-award-winning chef Neil Witney.
Of course, no trip to Goodwood would be complete without just a taste of its sporting activities. Like a Disneyland for grownups (but with fewer rides and far more sophistication...), there's a thrilling choice of oncein-a-lifetime experiences that can be arranged. Channel your inner Tiger Woods with a round of golf on one of the stunning courses – the beautifully designed 1930s-style golf buggies are an unforgettable experience in themselves.
Thrill-seekers can take to the sky in a helicopter, small aircraft or even a historic Spitfire at the Goodwood Aerodrome, or hit the tarmac in a driving experience at the historic Motor Circuit, where you can get behind the wheel of some beautiful classic cars or put more modern highperformance vehicles through their paces. For something truly unique, not to mention incredibly good fun, why not ‘embrace the bounce’ and go off-roading in one of the estate’s brilliant classic Land Rovers from the 1960s?
Nearby, the historic cathedral city of Chichester and the South Downs await, as do the stunning sand dunes of The Witterings, but when staying on this charismatic estate, you might find it hard to leave.
Goodwood prides itself on a ‘passion for excellence’ and this ethos is evident throughout, from the charming and efficient team who work there, to the immaculate facilities and stunning surroundings. This, combined with its fascinating history and sense of sophisticated fun, really does make a stay at Goodwood truly glorious.
The Pheasantry is a luxury self-catering holiday cottage sleeping up to six people and is priced from £1,275 for a three-night weekend stay, goodwood.com
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Who doesn’t love a coastal bolthole with sea views?
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When Watergate Bay Hotel named its newest accommodation The Beach Lofts, they weren’t kidding – they are quite literally aloft from the sand, elevated to enhance the picture-perfect views, with private access to the seashore.
The pristine sandy beach is the star attraction of Watergate Bay. So, to be one of the special guests staying in a loft suite (there are just seven in total) – with its stone’s throw proximity – permits exclusive 24/7 access, even after the crowds have departed.
It feels like it’s yours, entirely yours, to enjoy in total tranquillity... seeing the sunset over the sparkling ocean with no one else there to break the view or steal the moment.
And it’s captivating; watching and listening to the peaceful sounds of the waves, an endless flow of water lapping onto the shore. Swinging gently from the hanging sofa in the loft suite, mesmerised by the Atlantic Ocean, it’s easy to fall into an almost meditative state – you feel happier, healthier, calmer and connected to the landscape.
But, the glistening turquoise of the awakening Atlantic Ocean is not just there to be admired, of course.
Watergate Bay is a surfers’ paradise, and with the help of Wavehunters at the Extreme Academy surf school, there’s no requirement to be Alan Stokes before embracing the rippling tides. All levels of ability, from beginners to experienced Bettys are welcome by the talented crew of
The beach is your back garden, the sea is your playground, and the loft suites are your luxurious hangout, where you can gaze at professional-surfers through floor-to-ceiling glass, as though you’re standing right there on the golden sands...
Text by Jessica Way
instructors, who also teach stand-up paddleboarding and run boat trips and fitness classes. The team are passionate about their spectacular stretch of coastline and sharing their love for the water with others; ‘surf stoked', in their own words.
During the pre-entry briefing on the beach, our teenage daughters were quick to bond with the other young ones of the group. The icebreaker? Laughing at their inadequate parents trying to master the skill of pop-up (transitioning from lying down to standing up) onto the board!
Once in the water, there was some lighthearted competition around which of us would catch a wave first, along with many hilariously disastrous attempts.
The youngest picked it up in a shot (of course!) –surfing the waves almost effortlessly with every endeavour. It took me a while longer – just as I had finally remained
upright, balancing at speed for the first time, we got called back in, and the session was over.
However, the exhilarating feeling of the waves beneath our feet had given us an appetite for more. There was time for a quick break before we found ourselves hiring some boards for the rest of the day – and the beauty of staying at the Beach Loft is the surf-in and surf-out access from the suites. Guests have use of their own private wetsuit room, hot showers, lockers and board storage adjacent to the exclusive lofts.
This uncomplicated opportunity to relax and take a break from the sapping swells when needed provided an exhilarating, no-hassle experience for the family –we could surf as much or as little as we liked as others watched or took Poppy, our two-year-old Spanador, for a walk to explore the rock pools and caves.
It is effortless to holiday here with your canine in tow; Watergate Bay is the most dog-friendly hotel you could possibly imagine. The staff joke about the pups being their favourite guests, but with the attention and doting they give them, I’m not sure they’re merely kidding.
There’s even a doggie photo wall – guests are encouraged to use the #WatergateBayMoments for their finest pictures and captions, which are then proudly printed, displayed and available for collection. Captions made an entertaining read, from “feeling salty” to “No... I’m not leaving the beach!”
The two-mile-long stretch of beach at low tide is dog friendly all year-round – and your coastal hideaway, the laid-back beach lofts, have everything you and your furry best friend could need. We stayed in a family suite with a large open-plan bedroom and living space with a freestanding bath. Each loft has a different layout, unique character, warm textures, and stylish interiors. Think reclaimed wooden flooring, vintage rugs, upcycled and bespoke sofas, coastal books, woven baskets, hand-painted table lamps, large-scale seascapes, and rattan basket lampshades hanging from the rafters.
The bathroom interior resumes the outside-in feel with beach wood, tropical plants, painted brass fittings and Land & Water toiletries inspired by the shoreline and born out of Watergate Bay – sustainable products with a heavenly scent – available to buy in the giftshop.
Another advantage of staying in the Beach Lofts is the private pantry stocked with fresh coffee, pastries, cereal, fruit, juice and more, including a selection of freshly baked cakes each afternoon, giving the option to take breakfast to your room or a hamper down to the beach.
However, for a more substantial post-surf refuel, just below the lofts is the stylish Beach Hut serving delicious local, seasonal produce – with a 50% plant-based menu.
There’s plenty of options for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Some of our favourite choices include their homemade Bircher muesli, potato-stuffed flatbread, steamed Cornish
mussels, and their signature hot chocolate.
After a morning’s surf, a full-body salt scrub followed by a soak in a clifftop Canadian hot tub with the sun on our faces could never feel better. As a Beach Loft resident, you are also a guest of the Watergate Bay Hotel, including at the Swim Club where there’s also an infinity pool, a Finnish sauna, a cardio room, a large outdoor decking area, and a cafe-bar.
In the evening, Zacry’s Restaurant is the hotel’s place to be, savouring executive chef Neil Haydock’s culinary delights under candlelight in a formal – yet relaxed – setting.
‘Watergate Bay is the most dog-friendly hotel you could possibly imagine. The staff joke about the pups being their favourite guests, but with the attention and doting they give them, I’m not sure they’re merely kidding’
The three-course menu changes each season, with the best quality locally sourced meat and fish; slow-roasted spring lamb, whole Argentine prawns in garlic butter, and slow-cooked beef short rib. There’s plenty of imaginative pasta dishes, plant-based options, and mouthwatering desserts, including chocolate and brown butter ganache with pickled blackberries. For casual dining, head to The Living Space, serving British classics, from seasonal salads to hearty grills. It's open for lunch too, and there’s a great children’s menu and cosy snug where you can sit back, play games and make yourself at home.
Located on the seawall, the highly acclaimed Emily Scott restaurant serves the best of seasonal Cornish produce and is independently owned and highly recommended to guests. Or, plan your visit for The Beach Hut’s Lobster Friday, and enjoy their Cornish special drizzled in hot parsley butter – freshly caught from Newquay Harbour.
And if it isn’t Friday, pop to the local fishmonger and enjoy a beach barbecue; with Cornwall’s clear night skies and perfect sunset views, it is one of the best barbecue spots in the UK.
For well-deserved relaxation, join a morning or sundown beach-yoga session, take a stroll along the South West Coast Path (which is on the hotel’s doorstep) or seek out the ocean room, one of our favourite spots in the hotel, where it is easy to find a cosy corner and armchair to sink into against the backdrop of the waves.
We spent the last evening of our holiday here, playing board games, drinking cocktails and treasuring our final spectacular sunset together.
Jessica Way was a guest of Watergate Bay Hotel, Cornwall, staying in the new Beach Lofts. Prices to stay in the Beach Lofts from £545 per night, hotel bedrooms from £199 per night, watergatebay.co.uk
‘...seek out the ocean room, one of our favourite spots in the hotel, where it is easy to find a cosy corner and armchair to sink into against the backdrop of the waves’
Most people have romantic associations with the concept of The Cotswolds, a region in south-central England that seems to have cornered the market in charming villages, idyllic woodlands, and the green rolling hills lined with stone walls that always seem to feature in TV series set in the countryside. The founder of Cotswolds Distillery, Daniel Szor, also fell under its spell.
But there’s a big difference between being a whisky lover and suddenly deciding you want to be the Cotswolds’ first whisky distiller. It was a lightbulb moment that occurred to Dan in the summer of 2012, a year or so after he and his wife Katia bought their dream home, a weekender they would initially commute to from their flat in London’s West Hampstead, three miles from the current distillery site. Cotswolds Distillery now hosts over 100,000 visitors a year and its gins and whiskies are highly acclaimed the world over. It’s a huge achievement from one man who turned his back on a 30-year career in the finance industry to follow his heart on a whim, or as he puts it, “a guy who basically loved the visitor experience of distilleries he visited enough to want to build one.”
“I call this the Vermont of the UK,” says Dan. “The reason I thought this thing might have a chance of working was because The Cotswolds gets 30 million visitors a year. It occupies this important, green, happy place in the hearts of lots of people.”
A longtime whisky fan, Dan had made previous trips to Scottish distilleries with friends and was struck by the passion of the producers. “Anything that didn’t involve selling derivatives was inspiring to me.” Apart from visiting distilleries on his days away from the finance world, he had zero experience of the drinks industry and, since that day in 2012 when he wondered why no-one had thought to make whisky from all the barley growing in the Cotswolds, he has essentially figured out what to do as he went along. However, he had some important mentors. “The only thing I could do was try and surround myself with the best possible people,” says Dan.
Jim McEwan of Bruichladdich was an early supporter who told Dan to follow his dream, and set him up in May 2013 with Harry Cockburn, an expert on the operational side of opening and running a distillery.
In what turns out to be a surprising story, we meet the founder of Cotswolds Distillery, a native New Yorker who relocated from the world of finance to this picturesque part of England to follow a dream
Text
He also needed to learn how to make whisky. “I knew as much as anyone who had gone on 20 or 30 distillery tours,” says Dan. And that’s where (the late) Dr Jim Swan has been instrumental in steering Dan’s epiphany of being the first to make a spirit from local barley (Warminster Maltings, 70 miles away, supply them with their key ingredient of Cotswolds malt) into a delicious reality.
Often known as ‘the Einstein of whisky’, Jim imparted his knowledge of the entire production process to Dan. Of course, while they were waiting the necessary years for their whisky to mature, there was gin to enjoy.
“I call it our unexpected lovechild,” says Dan, “which we now love every bit as much as our whisky. We tried 150 different botanicals and 60 prototype gins. It’s the kind of gin a whisky drinker would like.” But the experimentation doesn’t stop there. “I used to live in France, and I loved Calvados, we
started making what we call Cotswold-vados. We’ve done two amaros, we’ve done a vermouth, I’m hoping we go bigger scale with rum.”
It’s clear Cotswolds Distillery is on the cusp of even bigger things. What started as an organisation of just seven people, is now home to around 50 staff. They picked up 1,500 investors along the way, and can make around 350,000 bottles of whisky a year.
Cotswolds Distillery created a new visitor centre at the end of 2019, as a result of the increasing popularity of the distillery tours.
“The [original] shop was so small that people couldn’t fit in there,” says Dan. “And after doing their nice 90-minute tour, they didn’t particularly want to leave and
“The [original] shop was so small that people couldn’t fit in there... they didn’t particularly want to leave and most of them had made a day of it. They weren’t in any rush to go home but there was nowhere for them to go”
FIRST PAGE: DAN SZOR WITH STILLS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: GUEST ENJOYS AN OLD FASHIONED COCKTAIL; COTSWOLDS DISTILLERY ENTRANCE; WHISKY CASKS; WHISKY STILLS; NEW £3 MILLION DISTILLERY
NEXT PAGE: DAN SZOR
most of them had made a day of it. They weren’t in any rush to go home but there was nowhere for them to go.”
Dan hired an architect and, inspired by the aesthetics of nearby Soho House, created a visitor centre that was more like a clubhouse and a brand home “where they could hang out all day if they wanted”. If you visit now, there’s the Still House Café with an open fire, a cosy wood-burning stove in the tasting room, and more space to do bespoke masterclasses.
On 5 January 2023, the Cotswolds Distillery became part of English whisky history, opening a new £3 million distillery (four times the size of the original) on an extra six acres of land. It’s now the largest producer of English whisky, with capacity to churn out 500,000 litres of pure alcohol a year, allowing it to meet increasing demand, globally and in the UK. “Our ambitions have grown,” Dan says. “If I think about how I want to leave this place …the visitor centre…
I’m so happy with it…it’s the way it ought to be. And if we’re in the middle of this beautiful, really breathtaking part of the North Cotswolds, surrounded by hills and fields…then why don’t we, in this country that values gardens more than any other country in the world, make a stunning place so that your outdoor time can be as nice as your indoor time.”
So, even if you’ve had the pleasure of visiting Cotswolds Distillery before, now there are even more reasons to return.
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A self-confessed foodie, Dan needs little encouragement to share his favourite finds in the North Cotswolds region:
> The Old Butchers:
“What you typically get in the English countryside is either ‘pub’ or ‘posh’. If you want seriously good food but without a starched napkin and a lot of people hovering over you, this is one restaurant that I think pulls it off really well. They’re in Stow-on-the-Wold, which is about 15 minutes away from us. It’s one of the only places where you can get really good langoustine or a really good lobster and actually really good shellfish and oysters. They also have really amazing charcuterie, some of it’s homemade and really good grills and meats. It’s simple food and not overly pretentious.”
> The Red Lion Inn:
“I certainly love my pubs as much as the next person. One of the closest villages to us is Long Compton and this is a nice country pub, which has what you’d expect from one: good food, good ales, good beers, good gins and good whiskies. It also has nice rooms.”
> The Bower House:
“Owned by Andrew Knight, former editor of The Economist , now just a local who likes to be in the foodie scene and owns an amazing food store called Taste of the Country in nearby Shipston-on-Stour; right next to it in an old listed building, he’s made this very nice little restaurant. It has nice rooms too.”
> Restaurant Henne:
“At the top of the restaurant heap within 10 minutes of us, in a town called Moreton-in-Marsh is this new-ish place [opened June 2021] that only has six tables and 14 covers. I went there with my wife for dinner and we were completely blown away. It has a prix-fixe sevencourse meal at what I think for that quality food and that number of courses and that originality and creativity, is a pretty decent price. It’s unpretentious but seriously well thought through, it’s great.”
> The Old Kiln House:
“This B&B in Shipston-on-Stour, about 10 minutes from the distillery, is owned by a couple who built it a few years ago, the rooms are nice, they’re nice people, if you’re looking for a B&B, you can’t go wrong there.”
> Feldon Valley:
If you’re looking for something closer to the distillery that you can toddle back to on foot, and particularly if you’re into golf (but not necessarily), there’s a local golf club bought by a businessman who made it into a mini resort. He built about 25 rooms, they aren’t way over the top, they’re modern, clean, bright, with nice views; some of them are in a copse of trees. I’d unreservedly recommend it.
> Ettington Park Hotel:
"If you’re willing to go with the traditional English country house hotel, which is slightly eccentric, there’s this place. We did a whisky makers’ conference in 2018 [World Whisky Forum], where we put 50 whisky makers from around the world here. It’s maybe 20 minutes away and almost Agatha Christie-like, a huge old mansion pile with a beautiful wood around it. The rooms have been renovated, no two are alike, and in tune with the architectural features of the place.
Remote, romantic and utterly unspoilt, these Scottish isles are the perfect antidote to everyday life
Text by Emma O'ReillyIt is always the way. The moment I descend to our cabin my teenage daughter, Daisy, yells “Quick, Mummy!” I rush back up on deck to see what the fuss is about and am greeted by a family of dolphins smiling and skipping joyfully alongside our little boat. Last time it was a minke whale surfacing. Just a couple of the treats we have enjoyed on our weeklong sailing adventure around Scotland’s Hebrides.
Our trip is with VentureSail, which have a choice of boats exploring this region – including yachts and tall ships. Most boats, like ours, have their own skipper and chef, so guests can either sit back, relax, and enjoy the views or learn a few sailing techniques if they are interested.
Life on board quickly settles into a routine. After breakfast we sail for a while, binoculars close at hand, then anchor off a new island. We are decanted into an orange dinghy,
which whisks us ashore and then we are free to explore.
First there is Eigg, where we climb a heather-smothered hill before descending sharply to the Massacre Cave. In a long-ago clan war, 400 islanders hid here from vengeful rivals from Skye. Their hiding spot was eventually found, the narrow entrance to the cave stuffed with vegetation and set alight. Nobody survived. It is just one of the many stories we learn from our skipper, who has spent his whole life in the Hebrides.
Back on board we enjoy the sunshine. Behind us a silky, milky sea ripples below velvet blue mountains.
As the light fades, we moor off Vatersay island. Gleaming white sands are fringed with emerald grass, where cows chomp thoughtfully. Behind it all, a supersized sun melts, red, pink and orange, into the sea. It is spellbinding.
Next morning, we see the cows up close as we go ashore. This time they have taken over the beach. Daisy, made of sterner stuff than me, strides in for a swim. Most of the cows take no notice, but one paddles into the shallows and slurps the sea water – they love the salt apparently. Afterwards, a wander through the nearby village, with its Nordic-looking wooden homes, leads us to the island graveyard. We note the young age of so many buried here – testament perhaps to the toughness of life on these isles, where the sea is one of the few sources of income, and medical facilities are sparse.
Another day, another island. Barra is one of the most remote. Our skipper tells us how lucky we are with the weather – it’s the first time he’s reached the island all summer. A local taxi driver gives us a tour.
At the island’s airport, little planes take off and land on the ‘runway’ – in reality just a huge sweep of sandy beach. When we tire of plane spotting, we cross a small road, follow a little path and discover
another stretch of soft bleached sand, lapped with lazy waves. It could be the Caribbean, especially on this warm, sunny day. We are the only ones here.
Back on board, our boat passes the looming basalt Cliffs of Canna and we spot sea eagles flying above. We climb ashore at Sanday island, where there is a haunting ruined church (one of three dotted across Sanday and neighbouring Canna).
We walk the length of the island, passing fields, the occasional house and some magnificent Belted Galloway cows, with their thick fur coats perfect for braving any chilly weather. A pedestrian bridge takes
‘We cross a small road, follow a little path and discover another stretch of soft bleached sand, lapped with lazy waves. It could be the Caribbean, especially on this warm, sunny day’
us to Canna. From it we see deep kelp forests below the crystal-clear surface of the sea. On the other side we chance upon an old dairy, where a few items are for sale, alongside a donation box. A small sign tells me that they were once the belongings of Magda, a Spanish lady who came here on holiday since being a child then later made friends with a local couple, the Campbells. She eventually moved to the island herself and became the archivist for the Campbell’s impressive home, Canna House (now owned by The National Trust for Scotland). Magda recently
died and her husband is selling some of her possessions to raise money for a cancer charity. I buy a small fishshaped ceramic dish as an unusual and rather touching souvenir.
As we arrive at Rùm in the early evening another spectacular sunset awaits. Above the dark outline of a volcanic peak, fluffy clouds hover, their blush pink and gold hues reflected in the still, silent water below. Some seals come to say hello.
The next morning is for exploring. Wooded trails lead us past a surprisingly stylish modern bunk house and a tiny, unstaffed
‘boutique’, where modern technology allows my daughter to buy a knitted halterneck top by scanning a barcode. We find the island’s general store, too, but it’s closed. A sign on the door states - ‘Dinnae Even Knock – The Shop is Closed’!
‘As the light fades, we moor off Vatersay island. Gleaming white sands are fringed with emerald grass, where cows chomp thoughtfully’
Our last stop on the island is the most intriguing. Kinloch Castle, built as a shooting lodge and party house for an aristocrat in 1897, is like something from a Dickens novel. I can just imagine Miss Havisham sitting upstairs in her wedding dress. It’s all locked up, but through the windows we see dusty rooms with mahogany panelling and shredded silk curtains. A taxidermied golden eagle looks down at the white rabbit it has caught in its claws.
There’s a library, still stuffed with books, and a vast galleried hall with a grand piano, animal skin rugs and ancestral paintings. We hear that the castle has recently been on sale for £1.
The catch is that the buyer must commit to spending several million pounds on its restoration.
As we start our return to mainland Mallaig, where we started our journey, we stop off briefly on the Knoydart peninsula, at the tiny village
of Inverie. It is accessible only by a two-day hike across the Highlands – or by boat. Still, there are plenty of people here and it feels positively buzzy after the quiet of the last few days. We sit outside the pub drinking rosé wine and toasting our good fortune.
Our week has been pure luxury. Not luxury in terms of five-star accommodations and service, but that thing that many of us crave –peace, exclusivity and the opportunity to spend quality time together, with no interruption. Our mobile phones, usually whipping us into a constant state of alertness have been mostly forgotten; work and other stresses put out of our minds entirely. Priceless.
Emma O’Reilly travelled with her daughter as a guest of VentureSail. One-weeklong yacht and tall ship itineraries start from £1,017 per person, with all meals and skipper included. Guests can book a cabin or a whole boat, venturesailholidays.com
‘We hear that the castle has recently been on sale for £1. The catch is that the buyer must commit to spending several million pounds on its restoration’
Steeped in history, Warwick is one of the best-preserved towns in England, with a range of civic architecture from medieval gateways to Georgian townhouses plus a superb castle. It’s easy to spend an hour or two on this delightful circular walk
Text AdrianWarwick is a beautiful English county town , and its medieval shape is still visible even if its city walls have all but gone. During Wars of the Roses the earls of Warwick were hugely important powerbrokers. The bear, chained to a tree stump was their symbol, which is why to this day so many English pubs have the name of either The Bear or The Bear and Ragged Staff. The most powerful of all Earls of Warwick, Richard Neville (1428 – 1471) deposed two Plantagenet kings, which is why he became known as Warwick The Kingmaker.
Start this walk in front of a very different kind of warrior king, Randolph Turpin, whose statue stands in front of the Rose & Crown Pub. Turpin was born in nearby Leamington Spa in 1928 but went to school and
lived most of his life in Warwick. In 1951 he became World Middleweight Champion. His combative statue faces on to Market Place, which once functioned as a parade ground for the Warwickshire Fusiliers. Opposite Turpin’s statue is the Market Hall, which was built in 1670 and
was originally open-sided. Today it is a museum for the County of Warwick and contains a video installation that recreates medieval Warwick in great detail.
Walk north through the Market Square and you’ll pass a number of pubs or former pubs – historically markets and alehouses were inseparable. The Tilted Wig (formerly The Green Dragon) on your left doubled as the town
‘shambles’. It served beer at a counter facing on to the square while butchers were busy hacking carcasses of dead animals apart to the rear.
At the top of Market Square turn right past the new county offices (notice the Bear symbol that has now been adopted for the whole of Warwickshire). Now pass through Old Square to St Mary’s Church.
This splendid structure with its 174-foot tower was rebuilt in the 18th century after the terrible fire of 1694 that destroyed two-thirds of the old inner city. Heroic firefighting teams managed to save half of the church, including the Beauchamp Chapel dedicated to the earls of Warwick. Now head south down Church Street past the Athenaeum. This former home of a town mayor was opened in 1846, following the model of the London Athenaeum, a club founded in 1824 where gentlemen could read books and newspapers and enjoy intelligent conversation.
‘Opposite Turpin’s statue is the Market Hall, which was built in 1670 and was originally open-sided. Today it is a museum for the County of Warwick...’
At the bottom of Church Street note the Warwick Arms to your right on High Street and the Old Court House on Jury Street to your left. These two streets are part of the same thoroughfare from Warwick’s Westgate to its Eastgate, but at this point High Street quaintly becomes Jury Street, to the confusion of visitors.
The Warwick Arms is the town’s oldest coaching inn, dating back to 1591 in this very position. The Court House was built on the site of a tavern that was demolished in 1725 so that Warwick’s first baroque building – a sign of great civic affluence – could be built. A figure of Justice cast in lead still stands above the main door, while inside is a museum to the Warwickshire Yeomanry Regiment. Upstairs the courthouse has a ballroom designed for music and cardplaying, and which is still used for social events in the town.
Walking down Jury Street as it descends towards Eastgate, the visitor passes a range of buildings in different styles, from half-timbered Tudor structures to 18th-century mansions in brick and stone.
Pretty much all of Jury Street was spared the Great Fire, as was the East Gate itself. This is a pretty, ornate structure built originally in the 12th century, but then embellished with a 15th-century church on top. The Church of St Peter originally stood in the High Street where it would have burned down, so the relocation was prescient. It was not unusual in England to build churches and chapels on top of solid structures like gatehouses, but Warwick is unusual in having two such composite buildings, one in the east here and one at the West Gate.
Turning right before you pass through East Gate, walk downhill as far as Castle Lane on your right, which leads to Warwick Castle, one of the best-known fortresses in England. You can leave the lane to walk as far as the castle stables, which serve today as a ticket office.
This unusually well-preserved castle is well worth visiting, although it will take you at least half a day to do it justice. These days it is owned, not by the earls of Warwick, but by a company that includes the Tussauds Group. A very convincing Henry VIII is there with all his six wives as well as Warwick the Kingmaker and the recreation of a Victorian house party of 1898 in Warwick Castle, which includes a young Winston Churchill.
Even if you are not visiting the castle, you will get glimpses of the monumental Guy’s Tower and the fortifications built by King Richard III as you return to Castle Lane. Now turn right on Back Lane past 18th-century Alderson House, which is the august meeting place of the local Freemasons. The fanlight over its front door (on High Street) is a direct and – as far as we know – intentional copy of that over 10 Downing Street in London.
Now turn left down High Street and The Lord Leycester Hospital will soon be visible. This almshouse for former soldiers was endowed by Queen Elizabeth’s favourite, Robert Dudley Earl of Leicester in 1571. Inside its half-timbered facade exists a pre-existing 14th-century banqueting hall and part of the old Angel Inn. The hospital runs as far as the Chapel of St James, which has been built over the West Gate. Here the road has been cut deep into the rock to make a steep entrance into medieval Warwick. The gateway is full of old locking mechanisms to keep latecomers out at night.
From Lord Leycester’s Hospital there is a short walk back along Brook Street to Market Place. And there is the statue of Randolph Turpin, still standing ready for a fight.
▶ Mallory Court: Three miles southeast of Warwick sits this beautiful early 20th-century manor house with a deserved reputation for fine dining. There is also an excellent spa and formal gardens.
mallory.co.uk
▶ The Warwick Arms: The town’s oldest hotel dates back to 1591 on this site but the current structure replaced a coaching inn that burned down in the devastating fire of 1694. Notable guests have included Lord Nelson, Mark Twain and Frank Sinatra.
warwickarmshotel.co.uk
▶ The Rose & Crown: This simple but friendly inn on Market Square was created by amalgamating two Georgian townhouses. The main dining room is decorated with David Bailey's black-andwhite photos of Mick Jagger, Elton John, and Lord Snowdon in the Swinging Sixties.
roseandcrownwarwick.co.uk
▶ Tailors: Housed in the former premises of a gentleman’s outfitter, Tailors Restaurant is owned by chefs Dan Cavell and Mark Fry, who offer an impressive tasting menu.
tailorsrestaurant.co.uk
▶ Thomas Oken’s House: This cosy cafe serves cream teas and all-day snacks inside a halftimbered house that belonged to a wealthy 16th-century mercer who dealt in silks and luxury goods.
thomasokentearooms.co.uk
▶ The Tilted Wig: Good, sturdy British food at a pub with rooms that has outdoor tables out on Market Square. There are a few vegetarian dishes but this is a great place for steak and chips.
tiltedwigwarwick.co.uk
‘The hospital runs as far as the Chapel of St James, which has been built over the West Gate. Here the road has been cut deep into the rock to make a steep entrance into medieval Warwick.’
Whether you want to fall asleep to the sound of waves or pop outside for a pre-breakfast swim, we pick the best hotels across the British Isles with rooms beside the sea
Text by Natalie ParisBetween thickly wooded headlands and above Babbacombe Bay, the Cary Arms has an unrivalled waterfront position. This old inn has been gracefully extended over the years to provide accommodation to suit all beachgoers. Here, the crash of waves will soothe you to sleep, especially after a day spent exploring neighbouring coves along the South West Coast Path. Choose from rooms with sea-facing terraces, traditional cottages that accept children and dogs, or the Beach Huts, where couples can fling open bifold doors and sunbathe beside the sea. The modern, cedar-clad Beach Suites are particularly luxurious, with spacious decking. Soothe tired feet in the spa’s hydrotherapy pool or enjoy leisurely dining at the restaurant, which celebrates ingredients plucked fresh from the bay.
Doubles from £205, caryarms.co.uk
Most of the 34, generously sized bedrooms at this contemporary hotel overlook Saundersfoot’s Blue Flag beach and harbour. Bag an Ocean Garden Room, if you can, as these have beach views, super-king Hypnos beds and separate living areas. The spa’s infinity hydrotherapy pool is the ideal place for contemplating the ebb and flow of the tides, with views for miles across the sand beneath. There is also a thermal suite
to relax in, comprising various showers and saunas. Suitably refreshed, you can saunter afterwards to the Cliff Restaurant for a locally caught seafood dinner beside floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the bay. Alternatively, try the afternoon tea that is served on the outdoor terrace. Two-bedroom apartments are a good choice for families, and glorious walks are available along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
Doubles from £200, stbridesspahotel.com
The beach at Carbis Bay, near St Ives, is a sheltered stretch of creamy sand owned by the family run hotel behind it. With a glamorous Bamford spa, four restaurants and lodges that housed world leaders during the G7, the hotel attracts repeat visitors and those seeking a luxurious coastal escape. Beach Lodges are positioned right above the sand, with four or five bedrooms, upmarket kitchens and hot tubs overlooking the waves. Beach Suites are a similarly high standard. The spa’s heated outdoor pool has panoramic views and is somewhere to bathe while spotting seals and dolphins, or watching paddleboarders out in the bay.
Doubles from £250, carbisbayhotel.co.uk
This Georgian manor house lies on Durham’s heritage coast, a place for bracing walks along the cliffs. Beaches –some shiny with smooth, glass pebbles that hint at the coast’s industrial past – are a short stroll away, beyond 37 acres of parkland. The five-star hotel has just 21 suites and offers a raft of services, so guests feel truly pampered. Bungalow Suites have their own hot tubs with sea views, while the Garden Suite has a wood-fired hot tub. The Ada Lovelace Suite, meanwhile, features twin slipper baths, perfect for couples who want to enjoy a soak while gazing across the grounds. The spa is huge, with an indoor pool, a hammam, a sauna, and a heated therapy pool outside in a zen garden.
Doubles from £295, seaham-hall.co.uk
You will find The Red Lion on the harbour’s edge at Clovelly (our front cover photo of this issue), a village hemmed in by green headlands, where fishermans’ cottages sit side by side along a donkeys-only, cobbled lane that rolls down to the sea.
The village was recorded in the Domesday Book and visitors have to pay to enter it. However, hotel guests have the harbour to themselves (and locals) at the end of the day, and nothing but a soundtrack of waves to help them sleep.
The Red Lion’s 19 bedrooms have subtle nautical themes and each is within sight of the sea. The most luxurious bedrooms are the six housed in the Sail Loft, next door. Entrance to The Clovelly Court Gardens is also free for guests.
Doubles from £185 a night, redlion-clovelly.co.uk
With a wide, golden-sand beach stretching before it, it’s no wonder that the St Brelade’s Bay Hotel has been a favourite with Jersey holidaymakers for generations. Guests can watch waves wash the popular bay from a multitude of angles, including from the five acres of gardens. There are 77 bedrooms, each elegantly dressed, including family rooms and sea-view rooms. The Bay Suite has sunloungers above the beach, while solo travellers will delight in the fact that even some single rooms have sea-facing balconies. The health club is wrapped in glass and also overlooks the coast. For a post-workout pamper, the spa offers a heated indoor pool, steam room and treatments. Afternoon tea in the Bay Restaurant is a treat and a cafe terrace opens above the sparkling outdoor pool in summer.
Doubles from £125, stbreladesbayhotel.com
The coves of the lush Roseland Peninsula are easily reached from The Nare, a family run country house hotel sitting behind Carne’s swathe of golden sand. The hotel claims its Whittington Suites are some of the largest sea-view hotel suites in Britain. Each has a second bedroom that is also a dressing room, two bathrooms and a broad balcony or terrace facing the big blue. The hotel’s detached cottage, Lemoria, is similarly positioned to enjoy the splendid seascapes, as is the hotel’s outdoor pool, which is set on a garden patio above the beach. A hot tub faces the setting sun and the spa has a second pool, sauna and steam room inside. However, the highlight of any stay is likely to be a trip out on one of the hotel’s two boats.
Doubles from £396, narehotel.co.uk
Set back on a road behind Camber Sands, The Gallivant is a chic new beach property with a focus on wellness. An adults-only hotel, it has an eco garden inspired by the dunes out front, with succulents, pines and drought-tolerant shrubs. Daily yoga classes help guests find inner calm, and wellness workshops range from peloton bike sessions to sound baths and wild swimming. Spa treatments are available in a beach cabin [pictured], which makes up for its size with indulgent Bamford products. The best of the 20 bedrooms have oak panelling, such as the Baby Hampton room, private terraces and/or rolltop baths. More than 90 percent of the produce used in the restaurant is local (within 20 miles) and there is an extensive English wine list. Best of all, guests can order hot toddies and fish and chips to eat on the beach.
Doubles from £165, thegallivant.co.uk
For utter seclusion by the Irish sea, 19thcentury Knockinaam Lodge has a shingle beach out front and is backed by a hilly ridge. The cove is private, so guests in the former hunting lodge’s 10 bedrooms will have it all to themselves, along with 30 acres of landscaped grounds. The comfortable, classic interiors feature wood panelling, period-style beds and muted tartans. The Bay room is a highlight, featuring a Victorian Tester bed, a window seat and sea views. A luxurious, self-catered cottage sits on the grounds too. Local producers supply the majority of what is cooked up in the sustainably minded restaurant, where the tasting menu might include Drummore lobster or scallops from Skye. In summer, there is the option to enjoy a BBQ dinner out on the lodge’s alfresco patio, close to the waves.
Doubles from £380, knockinaamlodge.com
Bohemian hotel group Artist
Residence opened its first hotel in 2008 in a neglected Brighton B&B that needed redecorating. Artists were given free board while they helped revive the place and the result was a quirky townhouse with reclaimed furniture and views across Regency Square to the sea. Of the 23 bedrooms, many afford views towards the ruined West Pier. Three stylish apartments are set in the adjacent building, one with its own wrought-iron balcony (though the best room in the house has a similarly gorgeous balcony too). A witty selection of art includes limited-edition prints from David Shrigley and neon signage from Brighton artist Andy Doig. The Clubhouse is a neighbourhood hangout and cafe-bar, with sofas in House of Hackney velvet and seafront views through a large bay window.
Doubles from £95, artistresidence.co.uk
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1 --- the Musical, about a little liar (7)
5 Circuit breaker (6)
10 Defeats (9)
11 Genre for Destiny's Child (1,3,1)
12 Watergate Bay chef --- Scott (5)
13 Turkish peninsula whose name means "beautiful city" (9)
14 Richmondshire market town (5)
15 Disturbed Lake Koi take after a tree (7)
19 Rebellious region of the Caucasus (7)
21 Toddler's wear (5)
24 Large oceanic ray (9)
26 Implied (5)
28 Ely to go wrong - in Yorkshire! (5)
29 Wise advice in an explosives factory (2,7)
30 Final acts? (6)
31 Aden denizens (7)
1 He played Bond and the Saint (5)
2 Sheridan play (3,6)
3 Lottery winner's comment (5,2)
4 Ecclesiastical capital of Ireland (6)
6 Where one may walk and visit the Kingmaker's castle (7)
7 Kemo Sabe's sidekick (5)
8 Island-hopping locale north of the border (8)
9 "Practical Cats" poet (1,1,5)
16 Atomic pin explodes, causing a dental problem (9)
17 Glorious home to the Pheasantry (8)
18 Mutation (7)
20 --- Teg, Welsh mythological creatures (7)
22 Established type of composition (3,4)
23 Cotswolds Distillery product (6)
25 Electrical pioneer (5)
27 Senators wore them (5)
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Walking the bones of Britain: A thousand mile, three-billion-year journey, from the Outer Hebrides to the Thames Estuary; Telling the story of how the land beneath our feet shapes our past, present and future. Priced £25, penguin.co.uk Wild Escapes: Incredible places to unwind and explore; Journey to 40 unforgettable getaways in Britain’s wild corners, from floating cabins to miniature castles, tree pods to moored boats. Priced £14.99, nationaltrust.org.uk/shop Mad Dogs & Englishmen: A Year of Things to See and Do in England (Hardback); Beautifully illustrated with bite-size entries and unique ideas of places to visit in England. Priced £16.99, waterstones.com
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