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Photo: @Tourist Association St. Anton am Arlberg - Josef Mallaun
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Pro skiers inject a little Italy into Vail Village. by HIL ARY NANGLE
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Step inside Valbruna, the cozy Vail Village boutique, and be transported to Italy — Valbruna, Italy, to be precise. Former Italian World Cup and American pro skier Marco Tonazzi — together with his wife, former ski film star Amy Wheeler Tonazzi — have created a vest-pocket tribute to Marco’s hometown, the Julian Alps village snugged against northeastern Italy’s Austria-Slovenia border. “My parents bought a cabin in Valbruna in 1963 that changed the course of our lives,” Marco says. “We traveled from Udine to the mountains every winter and I started to ski.”
Marco and Amy — whom fans will recall skiing in classic Warren Miller films — opened their Vail Village store in 1998. “I struggled with the store’s name, because I was thinking about Native Americans who believe that taking their picture steals a bit of their soul,” Marco says. He worried that naming the store for his home ski town would do the same, but Amy’s mother convinced him doing so was actually a tribute to a place he loved and often returned. Once he accepted that, he endeavored to make the village part of the store.
P H OTO : B R E N T B N G H A M P H OTO G R A P H Y
VAIL MEETS VALBRUNA
Aleksandra Pants M.Miller $340 Jacket Bogner $2,200 Cuffs Lulu Fiedler $245 Jamie Pants Hugo Boss $175 Jacket Toni Sailer $1,599 Shoes Pajar $410 Boot Covers M.Miller $380 Preston Pants G-Star Raw $180 Shoes Ralph Lauren $150 Jacket Lacroix $1,187 Becky
Sweater M.Miller $385 Dress Maaji $120 Tights Bootights $25 Shoes Treksta $178 Bum Bag Cornelia James $291 Hat SKEA $328 Jacket Nils $660 Effie
Jumpsuit Pam & Gela $295 Tank Stylist’s Own Boots Redemption $1,750 Gold Bracelet Lulu Fiedler $1,250 Earrings Lulu Fiedler $720 Poncho SKEA $328
REBEL SNOW FROM DESERT HEAT EMERGES A MAD MAX MIRAGE: SCORCHING SNOW STYLE
p h o t o g r a p h s b y D a n i e l a Fe d e r i c i s t y le d b y J o h n M a r t i n e z makeup by Melissa Rogers h a i r b y H e c t o r P o c a s a n g re
Becky
Dress Morgane Le Fay $1,120 Tights Bootights $25 Boots Ventisima Strada $290 Vest Duvetica $543 Bracelets Van Cleef & Arpels $42,000 each Hat Nobis $450 Aleksandra
Dress Morgane Le Fay $2,400 Vest Caroline Furs $1,900 Tights Bootights $25
Preston
Pants Alps & Meters $725 Sweater Dale of Norway $399 Ankle Boots Pajar $420 Aleksandra
Pants Goldbergh $414 Jacket Goldbergh $503 Hat M.Miller $660 Ankle Boots UGG $240 Necklace worn as tiara Lulu Fiedler $390 Becky
Jacket Bogner $2,000 Underlayer Bogner $350 Stretch Pants Bogner $520 Ankle Boots UGG $200 Necklace Lulu Fiedler $435 Thor Skis Meister $1,866 Effie
Jacket M.Miller $860 Sweater M.Miller $385 Elevators Bootights $25 Sunglasses Kiss $20 Bikini Top Model’s Own Jamie
Jeans 7 For All Mankind $198 Anorak Amundsen €549 Shoulder Harness Poshmark, Shifteh’s Closet Stylist’s Own Goggles POC $135 Ankle Boots UGG $225
Effie
Watch Van Cleef & Arpels $71,000 Vest Blanc Noir $189 Jamie
Pants Hugo Boss $174 Jacket Colmar $525 Sunglasses Vuarnet $600 Watch Van Cleef & Arpels $29,000 Shoes UGG $230
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Preston Pants G-Star Raw $180 Boots Ralph Lauren $150 Jacket Descente $895 Baseball Cap eskyflavor $46 Mittens Hestra $160 Goggles Bogner $369 opposite page
Aleksandra Jacket [C]STUDIO $1,195 Tights Bootights $25 Bodysuit H&M $18 Boots Redemption $1,750 Necklace Lulu Fiedler $420 Becky
Jacket Spyder $800 Tights Bootights $25 Bikini Top Phax $55 Bikini Bottom Phax $65 Skirt SKEA $178 Hat Caroline Furs $750 Necklace Lulu Fiedler $460 Boots Moncler $3,280
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Preston
Jacket Nobis $1,095 Shirt Alp-n-Rock $198 Pants 7 For All Mankind $199 Necklace Lulu Fiedler $390 Jamie
Pants Hugo Boss $174 Shirt WoolX $75 Jacket Fusalp $1,010 this page
Becky
Pants Sportalm $649 Sweater Sportalm $459 Jacket Sportalm $549 Shoes UGG $200 Boot Covers M.Miller $550 Handbag Lees Pearson $3,600 Handbag Lees Pearson $3,800 Effie
Boots Redemption $1,750 Jacket Arpin 1817 $1,040 Pants We Norwegians $230 Sweater Tonia DeBellis $129 Helmet Bogner $1,189
Aleksandra
Dress Dennis Basso $4,500 Vest Dennis Basso $13,000 Tights Bootights $25 Boots Redemption $1,750 Effie
Dress Dennis Basso $3,200 Jacket Yves Salomon $2,523 Boots Moncler $3,280 Necklace Van Cleef & Arpels $60,000 Becky
Bracelets Van Cleef & Arpels $39,500 each Dress Stella McCartney price on request Tights Bootights $30 Boots Redemption $2,980 Vest Wolfie $2,495
BEYOND MOUNTAINS THOSE
Sheep farms, hot springs, and heli-ski startups among the primordial peaks of Iceland’s Troll Peninsula. words by A NDR E W F INDL AY photographs by K A R I ME DIG
Louise Kyle on Karlsárfjall with Eyjafjörður in the background.
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oaring near the mountain tops of the Troll Peninsula I ponder what I have seen already after only a few short days on this remote North Atlantic island perched in contented limbo between Europe and North America. Barren valleys dotted with remote sheep farms, herds of shaggy Icelandic horses grazing near a hot spring that bubbles next to the sea, and dormant volcanoes that betray the geological violence that has shaped this land, and in turn its proud and spirited people. If a pair of trolls suddenly appeared at my feet I would hardly be surprised. Few places are as evocative of something 122
primordial and magical as Iceland appears to me at this moment. Our guide Jökull Bergmann, or JB, steps out of the chopper, his unruly reddish blonde hair barely contained by an Arctic Heli Skiing toque. We’ve touched down atop a run known as The Horse on a glorious sunny day; nearly 4,000 vertical feet of corn snow lies between us and Klængshóll, headquarters for Arctic Heli Skiing, the red roofs of the old farmhouse and surrounding buildings visible in a golden grassy pasture near the valley bottom. More than a month after I normally store ski gear and switch to other pursuits, I’m digging deep
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Andrew Findlay takes in the view of Eyjafjörður from the summit of Kaldbacher. next page
In true Icelandic fashion: Server Gerda Björk Thoreyjardottir outside Arctic Heli’s Klængshóll lodge.
PHOTO: ©RL
Let’s get this party started. La Folie Douce, Méribel.
the descendants Eighty years after the building of Méribel, descendants of the resort’s very British founders reveal why the heart of Les Trois Vallées is “as English as Henley.” by CHARLOT TE ME TCALF
P H OTO : 2 0 0 4 G E T T Y M AG E S , S T R N G E R
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n the pantheon of first‑rate photographers, some might say Ansel Adams was to nature what Slim Aarons was to haute society. But what if Aarons was actually both? Moreover, what if the two star shutterbugs, both American, both now gone, were actually more alike than one might, at first, deduce? Aarons — whose photographs remain the definitive ode to a bygone jet set, an all-encompassing photo album of the rich at play — was big on “mise en place,” according to his daughter, Mary Aarons. His rule of thumb, she explains as we sit to talk, was that the “entire setting should tell the story of the place or person.” And among those settings? A plethora of photos set amongst the planet's most fabulous wintry abodes: photos that rank among her own personal favorites. Though lesser known, perhaps, than some of her father’s most enduring photos — images like Poolside Gossip of two socialites exchanging intel in Palm Springs, or Kings of Hollywood in which Clark Gable and friends laugh it up in black tie in Beverly Hills — the snow‑speckled photos continue to cast an allure unto themselves. Mary Aarons, the keeper of her father’s legacy, generally favors “the landscapes,” as she calls them. In that respect, her father covered the gamut, his many “ski-lift” tableaux (from Gstaad to Aspen) acting as a foil to the “beautiful boats... the beach umbrellas” that he also endlessly, tirelessly, chronicled from the Côte d’Azur. 136
In Aarons’ world of après-ski, the champagne flows ever freely and the frisson of fun is never far.
Chalet Costi
Skiers relax under the Matterhorn, Zermatt, 1968.