Medical Meet
Marketing
Industry
Sleeping Giant
HairTech 2012
Man to watch Jackie Yu
Industry Leaders Look Ahead
pg. 13
pg. 12
Technology Under the Radar
ISHRS President
Dr. Jennifer H. Martinick
pg. 8
with Oyvind Berg
pg. 4
The National Hair Journal VOLUME 15 NO. 60
THE PROFESSIONAL PUBLICATION OF HAIR AND SKIN REJUVENATION
Just Say No To Formaldehyde Cosmetic Industry and Federal Gov’t Conclude FormaldehydeLaced Hair Products Pose Health Risk Washington, DC. 10/11 – The mainstream cosmetics industry has, for the first time, declared formaldehyde unsafe at any level in hair straighteners. Citing undisputed health risks, frequent consumer complaints and a lack of evidence of safety, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel, a scientific advisory board established by the major American cosmetics manufacturers, has effectively disavowed expensive salon products sold by a handful of small companies such as the Los
Angeles maker of Brazilian Blowout. The federal Food and Drug Administration has yet to bar formaldehyde from hair straighteners, even though the U.S. Department of Health and Human Safety has labeled it a known human carcinogen. However, last month the FDA issued a formal warning that publicly admonished Brazilian Blowout. The agency declared the company’s hair-smoother adulterated, because it contained dangerous levels of formaldehyde, and misbranded, because it claimed to be free of formaldehyde. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration, the federal agency charged with overseeing workplace safety, has escalated its
warning to hair salons and employees after investigators found that two popular brands of hair straighteners exposed salon workers to dangerous levels of formaldehyde. OSHA officials also instructed the manufacturer of Brazilian Blowout Acai Professional Smoothing Solution, one of the products that failed OSHA’s tests, to stop suggesting that OSHA tests had found its product safe. Brazilian Blowout’s hair-straightener, though labeled “formaldehyde free,” was found by OSHA to contain significant amounts of the chemical.
STEVEN TYLER JOINS ARMED BANDITS RAID HAIR CENTER GREAT LENGTHS USA CHALLENGE! Van Nuys, CA. 10/11 - Hair & Compounds, a
New York, NY. 11/11 - lline Surianello, owner of LeMetric Hair Center, is building a new custom Mobile Beauty Center that will take her to her customers with hairloss. Wo m e n today are busier than ever and an hour commuting to and from a hair appointment may be the difference between a client and a no show. “It will also be a major convenience to women in chemo who simply may not feel strong enough to come to us,” says Surianello, “so we’ll go to them.” This will be no ordinary van. It is a customized Mercedes-Benz with modern styling facilities and room for up to eight technicians. For more information and to see if the mobile hair center is coming to your neighborhood, visit lemetric.com/mbc.php.
hi-end hair extension manufacturer, was raided by bandits looking for Russian hair. Brandishing guns and threatening the company’s employees, three masked gunmen made off with over $30,000 of premium human hair. Alerted by neighbors, the police were quickly on the scene and after a helicopter-assisted car chase, the thieves were finally arrested. Top quality human hair is scarce and commands high prices. The bandits had obviously done their homework and targeted only the highest quality merchandise. Company owner, Isaac Bracha, has since installed an elaborate security system and urges other professionals who work with human hair to do the same. This episode is just the latest in a series of robberies targeting hair wholesalers across the country (see National Hair Journal, Summer 2011 news story “It’s midnight… Do you know where your hair is?”).
Role Model Salon owners considering payment plans for their hairloss clients might take a cue from Washington: In a bid to stem taxpayer losses for bad loans guaranteed by federal housing agencies Fannie Mae and Freddy Mac, Senator Bob Corker (R-Tenn.) proposed that borrowers be required to make a 5% down payment in order to qualify. His proposal was rejected 5742 on a party-line vote because, as Senator Chris Dodd (D-Conn) explained, “Passage of such a requirement would restrict home ownership to only those who can afford it.”
New ISHRS President Anchorage, AL, 11/11 - Perth based hair restoration physician Jennifer H. Martinick, MBBS has been appointed President of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS). She succeeds Jerry E. Cooley, MD. Dr Martinick will be assisted by Vice President, Carlos J. Puig, DO.
Australia was first migration stop 75,000 years ago Genetic analysis by Danish researchers indicates that Australian Aborigines are directly descended from the first people to migrate out of Africa. These findings are changing historians’ understanding of population growth and migration at the very beginning of human life on earth. The research involved sequencing the genome of a 90year-old hair sample donated by an Aborigine man to a British anthropologist a century ago. The results, first published in the magazine Nature, shows that Aborigines’ ancestors came from the first populations in Africa 62,000 - 75,000 years ago. Europe and Asia were not settled until 38,000 years ago.
WINTER 2011
Aderans Hair OK Despite Bangkok Floods Beverly Hills, CA. 11/11 - Flooding this year has affected 64 of Thailand’s 77 provinces, damaging World Heritage-listed temples in Ayutthaya province, destroying 15 percent of the nation’s rice crop and flooding the homes of almost 15 percent of the country’s 67 million people, according to government data. Floodwaters have already inundated seven industrial estates with 891 factories that
Source: The Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit research organization based in Washington, DC that uses the power of information to protect human health and the environment.
First Mobile Hairloss Center
Hair Reveals Ancestry
™
Kansas City, MI, 11/11 - When it comes to rock and roll, it’s all about the music and the hair – two essential components that Aerosmith’s front man and songwriter Steven Tyler embodies. Tyler, a fan of Great Lengths, signed on as the celebrity judge for the second annual Great Lengths USA Challenge. “If you think about it, Steven has probably had more celebrity influence over hair in recent years than anyone since Jennifer Aniston. He’s the reason why we saw so much color in hair during Fashion Week this year,” says Brett Butcher, Great Length USA National Program Director. “Steven understands the importance of hair and how it relates to image.” The Great Lengths USA Challenge is a “before and after” imagery contest open to all Great Lengths USA Certified Stylists.
Record Surgery Webcast More than 70,000 viewers participated in a medical webcast as Dr. Harris performed live surgery using the new Artas robot in the most viewed, live-streamed cosmetic surgery procedure in the history of Internet broadcasting. The key to the robot and its expertise lies in its ability to perform a specific, tedious process called Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE). This detailed work was previously only performed by a handful of specialty physicians worldwide because it is labor intensive, time consuming and expensive. The robot will completely change the hair transplantation process and business, as it brings FUE mainstream to the 35 million men in the United States suffering from male pattern baldness or hair loss.
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employed about 460,000 people, according to the Thai Industrial Estate and Strategic Partners Association. Aderans operates two factories in Thailand, one in Buriram in the North East of the country, and the other in Ayutthaya, just outside Bangkok. US President/CEO Aderans Hair Goods, Armen Markarian, reassured The Journal that despite the record flooding, Aderans customers should not worry about deliveries, “The recent floods in Thailand have had a devastating impact on that country and its population. Our thoughts and prayers are with our Aderans friends and colleagues who have been impacted by this natural disaster. However, we’re gratified to report that, although an Aderans contracted factory was damaged by the flooding, our primary resource, the Aderans Thai Limited factory, has been spared damage and continues to operate at full capacity. That means no disruption in the primary supply chain for wigs produced for the U.S. and European markets. Aderans Hair Goods remains in constant touch with our parent company in Japan, and continues to monitor the situation in Thailand closely. Our customers in the U.S. and Europe can rest assured that contingency plans for production and transportation resources are firmly in place to ensure the uninterrupted flow of high quality products to their markets.”
Anti-Gray-Hair Pill Paris, France. 11/11 - Oxygen is your friend. Most of the time. But just as oxygen allows your body to burn fuel and generate energy, it also creates waste and stress. Cosmetologists see the consequences every day. They call it oxidation and it’s the reason there’s an $8 billion hair color market. Women, and now men, are spending increasing amounts of money to hide this very obvious sign of aging. But what if you could stop hair oxidizing in the f irst place? What if men and women could keep the color of their hair intact as they aged? That’s what L’Oreal, a world leader in beauty products, is asking. After nearly ten years of research, L’Oreal hopes to introduce an anti-gray pill in 2015 that will stop oxidation and turn the hair color market upside down. The pill contains a fruit extract that mimics the chemical tyrosinase-related protein or TRP-2, an enzyme that protects pigmentation production. When taken pre-emtively over a period of ten years or more, it is believed that hair color can be conserved. However, it will not correct or reverse hair that is already gray.
3 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
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Good-Bye 2011 – It’s been a year of radical change. The hair replacement industry has consolidated like never before. It is now essentially owned by two Asian groups, Hiking and Aderans. Where there were flamboyant personalities, there are now financiers in the corner office. Some people find this scary. They have said goodbye to familiar faces and brands. But the hair market is only playing catch-up with the rest of the commercial world. Most product categories are dominated by a few major players, just look at computers, cell phones, even personal care products. But as markets converge and achieve economies of scale, boutique operators spring up and use their special insights and nimble management to pioneer new niche markets that will become tomorrow’s market leaders. Where are those new opportunities? “Personality” hair additions for kids is one. “Street” hair goes with the tattoos, custom ring tones and fashion sneakers. Paradoxically, it will be “street” hair that finally destigmatizes adult hair additions and unlocks its full potential. Just as ghetto clothes and rap music shook up the fashion and music world – and they thought they were pretty cool – so kids will energize the hair market and remind us that it is still the ultimate personal accessory! In this issue - In September, we invited hair manufactures and distributors to write to us and share their news and opinions. “Readers of The National Hair Journal are constantly asking what’s new. They’re looking for new products and technologies to offer their clients in 2012, and we want to make sure they know about yours. In our last 2 issues, we have reported on advances in low-level laser light therapy, the arrival of robot-assisted hair transplant surgery and the use of microcurrent to stimulate skin rejuvenation. It’s now time to return to our core business, hair replacement and restoration.” This is always risky. One company may send in three pages of text and another, one paragraph. We have to present a balanced picture while giving space to the new products that are truly important. But we wanted to give you a hair addition update, so on page12 we bravely go where no editor has gone before and hope it gives you a better understanding of the new products coming your way... and some of the new people behind them. Be pure - Most of yesterday, I had technicians climbing around inside my garage. They were installing a new water purification system. It filters water coming into the home through coconut husks or something and the result is clear, fresh water that’s free of nasty chemicals. I don’t know the price because my wife is paying for it, not me. I would never have sprung for something like this, but women’s priorities are different. Today I took a shower. At the risk of sounding like a TV pitchman, the water “felt different” and there was no chlorine smell. The shampoo lathered up more easily too and now my hair feels better. Why am I telling you this? Because your clients, certainly your male clients, are probably like me. They do not realize how much better their hair and skin could look if the impurities and chemicals in regular tap water were removed. You have to try it to become a believer. So if you want to provide truly superior service, think about installing filters in your salon - not the large size units my wife splurged on - but a small attachment that screws onto the faucet. Everyone will notice the difference! Sidestepping the side effects – Eight years after I started taking Propecia, I have stopped. I don't know if this is the right thing to do, but I'm playing it safe. My concerns with his drug arose after reading an article in Men's Health magazine. Hundreds of other men probably did the same. I’ll get to the bottom of the story by talking to the doctors and researchers behind the data, but this episode underscores a couple of critical issues. The first is the power of the media, “If it appears in print, “it must be true...” The second question is, when a medicine is used ‘off-label,’ are we always given all the facts? In their December 2011 issue, Men’ s Health has devoted a 4-page special
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report to the lingering side effects of Propecia, even after patients have stopped using it. Most hair loss experts and advisors, including this newspaper, regarded the supposed lack of libido on statistical quirks. After all, in clinical tests, even the men taking the placebo reported side effects. But the evidence keeps mounting that something more is going on. If you step outside the hair growth study conducted by Merck and look at the broader usage of finasteride - after all this drug started life as a popular treatment for enlarged prostates - then a bleaker picture emerges. Research in 2003 among 3040 men revealed that fully 15% of the sample claimed to have suffered new sexual side effects. More worrisome still, in many cases, the side effects continued even after they stopped taking their medication. As a result of this and other studies, a number of European countries, (Sweden, Italy, United Kingdom) have required Merck to print a warning on its label that Propecia can create “persistent erectile dysfunction.” In the United States online forums have sprung up where men can exchange information and support. And in the great American tradition, the problem has even been given its own name. No “Shock and Awe” here; it’s called “PFS,” or “Post-Finasteride Syndrome.” Passion - Seen on a label attached to a pair of Timberland jeans: “What kind of footprint will you leave? For three generations, we’ve poured our guts into making the best gear we can. So wherever you’re headed, whatever your purpose, one thing’s for certain, this gear was built to serve you well.” Ever seen a label like that on a hair product? Editor Emeritus - It was a sad day when we learned of Steve Dimanni’s passing. We wanted to believe it wasn’t real, but just as Steve himself was always down to earth in his writing, so we had to square up to the loss of a major talent and friend. Steve’s understanding of the hair market was unequalled and he shared his analyses, thoughts and advice with Hair Journal readers for nearly ten years. We cannot bring Steve back, but we can say ‘Thank You’ on our masthead where he will be remembered as an Editor Emeritus! We’re Morphing – You have seen from previous editorials, that we believe anti-aging therapies are a logical part of the services our industry is – or should be – offering. Consequently, as we go into 2102, we will try to bring more anti-aging information into our pages so you can decide what is relevant to your business and your clients. And to show that we are serious about this, we are expanding our own brand identity from ‘The National Hair Journal’ to ‘The National Hair & Skin Journal.’ This does not mean that we see hair replacement as less important than it was before; quite the opposite. Hair replacement is the most visible and troubling concern among a huge and rapidly aging population. But tired, listless skin is the other side of the same coin. Both problems need to be addressed and we’re the people to do it. Skin clients will likely become hair clients. And great hair without great skin is only half the answer. Rejuvenated hair and skin go together and in 2012, we’re going to show you how! New Contact Information - Please note that we have updated our phone system to an Internetbased system that will give us more routing flexibility and make sure you can always reach us when you need to. Effective immediately, our new contact numbers are: - Hair Journal: 626-709-6397 - Society: 619-928-9750 Coming in the next issue - Spring is when the fashion world flocks to the runways of Paris, New York and Milan. We’ll talk with the designers who follow the new colors and trends and get their predictions on hairstyles for 2012. We’ll also follow up on this issues’ Hair Update to introduce you to more hair addition companies and the people who run them. And, of course, we’ll tell you what was new at the Anti-Aging conference in Las Vegas and how you can be part of this exploding market. Happy Holidays! - Until we see you again in March 2012, have a Happy Holiday season with the people you love... and thank you for your friendship and support!
Chris Webb
Editor-in-Chief
4 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
The Man Who Flies Under The Radar Oyvind Berg is a soft-spoken, unassuming man. Not the kind of person who makes you look up when he enters a room. In fact, for fifteen years in the hair loss industry, he has gone largely unnoticed. In this article, we pull aside the curtain to reveal the vision and pioneering instinct that has led Oyvind to introduce technologies to the hairloss market that have profoundly changed its direction. Like many pioneers and inventors, he has successfully flown under the radar, happy to let his products and technologies speak for themselves. Oyvind was born in Norway. He always expected to make a career in aviation, and in 1969, he emigrated to the United States, analyzed the commercial opportunities for a young entrepreneur and decided to become a pilot and build a flying school. The venture was successful and before long, he was the proud owner of 43 airplanes and was instructing men and women of all ages in the intricacies of aviation. But there was one thing he could never have anticipated. The catastrophe of September 11. Perhaps it was his Scandinavian personality, but Oyvind realized that the world had changed and aviation was no longer going to provide him with the satisfaction and peace of mind that was so important to him. It was time to move on. His intuition however, had sensitized him to a new business opportunity in the personal care market and so once again, he threw himself into a new business venture without looking back. He sold the flight school, moved to Florida, and created a new company that he called “Harmonix.” Harmonix began to import a new technology from Scandinavia that was gaining professional recognition for its ability to halt and even reverse hair loss. It was low level laser light therapy, and Harmonix was the first company to import and distribute cosmetic lasers in the United States. Given his background in flight training, it was only logical that Oyvind would insist on the same serious instruction when it came to laser technology. So he created a state-of-the-art training center in Boca Raton Florida and Plum Park Plaza became the nerve center for serious laser therapists in North America. Shortly thereafter, Harmonix introduced a second breakthrough technology, the Capillicare diagnostic device that could analyze an individual strand of human hair and by comparing it to a database of alternate hair types, scientifically chronicle its condition and health. Capillicare was developed by a medical team in the South of France and, once again, European technology was brought into North America to support and document the progress of clients embarking on a program of phototherapy. Fast-forward eight years, and laser therapy had now become an accepted modality throughout the hairloss community. Even hair restoration surgeons, not known for embracing technology they hadn’t encountered at medical school, were coming to the conclusion that phototherapy could indeed benefit their patients. Their acceptance was lubricated by the FDA clearance granted to the first HairMax Lasercomb following a series of clinical trials that documented cosmetically significant hair growth. But having pioneered a new category, it was
time for new challenges. This time, Oyvind turned to the expanding field of skin rejuvenation and began to promote a new procedure called “microdermabration.” In fact, Harmonix was only the second or third company in the US to market this technology that today is standard equipment in all skin care centers and most dermatology offices in the US. About the same time, Harmonix also became the importer of a new style of micro-pigmentation (permanent makeup) equipment from Germany. This equipment soon became the new standard for the micro pigmentation industry. In 2010 Berg sold that segment of his business to his biggest competitor. It is still doing very well and is the # 1 such product worldwide. Why sell a business that was doing so well? Because there was something even bigger and more exciting on the horizon. The new venture was a complete break from everything Oyvind had done before. And once again it was based on medical research completed in Europe. Just as Oyvind's business instinct had previously seen an opportunity in an aging population that wished to preserve the appearance of youth, he now saw a society in which stress and anxiety were widespread and undermining daily lives and even individual health. So in a quantum leap, he redirected his marketing talent into stress relief, introducing a radical new therapeutic device he called “Harmonial.” By using a combination of projected colors, sounds and images, Harmonial is able to calm and restore a shocked or troubled mind. It has been shown to help not only people suffering from acute stress, but even recovering drug addicts and members of the Armed Forces returning from combat with post traumatic stress disorder. However, like low level laser light therapy, which found its way into private homes everywhere, Oyvind expects that one day, Harmonial therapy will become commonplace and that men and women will be able to dispel anxiety in their lives just as they routinely defragment a hard drive on their computers. Where is Oyvind's compass pointing today? Surprisingly, or perhaps not so surprisingly, it is leading him back to hair. At a trade show in Asia, he came across a radical new design in professional shears. By combining multiple blades, with different cutting characteristics, onto one lightweight grip, hair stylists can now create textured styles and designs that previously would have taken hours. And once again, his vision is delivering significant benefits to the marketplace. Respected professionals like Gilberto Febles, Peggy Tom and Bobby Buonomo have already integrated the new shears into their salon routines and, where they lead, others are sure to follow. And what about the stress-relief program? Well, Oyvind is getting ready to experiment with this product in hair restoration clinics since hairloss in many cases is related to stress and anxiety. Clinical studies conducted by a psychology group in Florida showed results as good or better than traditional medication treating serious cases of anxiety. Say thank you to Oyvind Berg, the innovator and pioneer who continues to fly under the radar! NHJ
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In Memoriam Steven Di Manni gave the best of himself to everything he touched. On Madison Avenue his contributions were recognized with awards and accolades. In the publishing world his work lives on in the pages he wrote. And at one small personal-care publication in particular, The National Hair Journal, Steven leaves us wiser for the insights he shared and richer for the friendship we were privileged to be part of...
May the roads rise to meet you fratello, May the wind be always at your back, May the sun shine warm upon your face, The rain fall soft upon your fields And, until we meet again, May God hold you in the hollow of his hand May the Lord comfort your loving wife Margherita And your beloved family. - Chris, Avi & Heather
1956-2011
7 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
Why I’m Upbeat Chris Prior talks about the opportunities in the hair replacement market Chris Prior has extensive experience in the fashion industry and until recently was President of TressAllure, a trendy women’s wig group. Three months ago he was recruited by On Rite. That should tell you something about On Rite’s longterm planning and future direction. To confirm this hypothesis, The Journal caught up with Chris in his Ft. Lauderdale office. Obviously, he is still settling in to his new role as VP Sales & Marketing, but he shared with us his vision of the future and the opportunities he sees ahead. NHJ: Chris you are upbeat about the future of the industry, but salon managers across the country are nervous. They see everything changing, consolidating or disappearing. A market they have taken for granted for many years is metamorphosing before their eyes and they are anxious about the future. Can you reassure them? CP: I understand their concerns. After all, I am one of those changes myself. But the restructuring they are seeing is the sign of an industry coming of age and building a platform for new growth. Until recently, the hair business was essentially a family business. But every developing market reaches a point where new technology, new management skills, and new capital resources become necessary. NHJ: When we look at hair companies that have been successful in the past; it’s often not because of a superior product, but because of the people. This is a personality-driven industry. Andy Wright has done a fabulous job by letting his Irish humor show - his advertising is often tongue in cheek; he dresses up as a pirate for business conferences. He does funny stuff and people love that. CP: Customer service is what has allowed On
Chris Prior, VP Sales & Marketing, On Rite Rite to grow while the economy has sunk. It allowed this company to progress despite a lot of competition and restructuring. That will not change except I hope to make it even better. NHJ: How much importance do you attach to new technology? CP: Sound technology allows creative flexibility. They go together. Coming from TressAllure, I am very fashion conscious, so inevitably I would like to introduce some new styling. As always happens, a fresh set of eyes will see new opportunities for growth and we want to jump on them in a hurry. NHJ: So you believe the market is still growing? CP: We do not see the hair replacement market shrinking. Maybe some businesses are contracting, but not the market itself. There is still a ton of business out there to be had. NHJ: Do you see your experience in the women’s market as important to On Rite’s development? CP: Without a doubt. The women’s industry still has major growth potential. The men’s industry also exhibits some opportunities,
maybe not quite as large and not quite as obvious, but they do exist. NHJ: So the women’s market is where the action is? CP: The opportunities in women’s market are huge. A 45-year-old woman today wants to look 35... or even 30. I don’t think we’ll ever go back to the time when a 45-year-old woman was happy to look her calendar age. That was another era, another mindset. NHJ: The women’s market has a “cosmetic” and a “need” segment. The men’s market is still limited to the “need” segment.” Men have not come around yet to the concept of hair as a styling aid or accessory. CP: It’s a work in progress. Women are cosmetically more adventurous. Take hair extensions. They provide the instant glamour and volume. Hair extensions are here to stay. The manner in which they are applied may change over time, but extensions themselves are here to stay. Wigs, top of heads, full caps, integrations; these are all great opportunities for growth, with different color choices, different blends and textures, and new developments like high heat-resistant fibers. As long as women want to look younger and healthier, this will always be a dynamic market. I like to joke that I’ll never get old... and there are a lot of people that have the same feeling. We like the way we are. We’re not ready to be part of the graying of America. NHJ: L’Oreal is experimenting with a pill that you can stop your hair from graying, so clearly the big cosmetic companies are seeing the same signals. CP: There’s no doubt about it. NHJ: What role models do women follow today? CP: I spent 20 years on 7th Avenue in Manhattan in the fashion industry and it didn’t take a lot to realize that everybody emulates the Hollywood superstars and music icons. They’re the ones setting new fashion trends. It’s not just clothes, it’s hair, color, shoes, you name it. The same thing is true for men, but to a lesser degree men. Why do men follow George Clooney? Because he’s aging like the rest of us, but he does it gracefully. As long as there are people like that, there will always be opportunities. NHJ: You also bring Internet marketing and brand-management skills to our industry. How important is it to build a contemporary image for the hair addition business? CP: It is imperative that this industry continues
to move faster in that direction. My sales consultants sometimes tell me they have a customer who doesn’t have Internet access. Really? They may not have a computer in their salon, but don’t tell me they don’t go online at home. I guarantee they order things on the Internet. They’re there. They may not want to give you their address, but they’re watching what you’re doing. If you send something by e-mail, they’re seeing it. If you’re filming commercials, if you’re building new websites, if you are moving into 2012 online, they’ll see you. NHJ: What do you want your customers to know about On Rite? CP: That we’re becoming more fashion forward. That we’re watching hair trends, hair colors, make up and women’s fashions. We have marketing meetings here at On Rite just to discuss new fashions. We want to be sure people understand that we’re not a one product company. And we don’t just watch what’s going on in the hair industry. The hair market is driven by a hundred different things, just like the fashion industry. Everything is inter-related. If hair styles change, so do colors and hair lengths. And hairstyles dictate nail colors. Those colors in turn influence accessories and shoes. It’s all tied together. The magazines people buy in droves in the supermarket are there because people want to see what’s new, what’s hot. NHJ: Is it possible to communicate those powerful images through retailers who do not have a marketing or fashion background? CP: We want to make things easy so we’re building the marketing collateral for them. We’re taking the creative lead so we can simply say, “Here’s the marketing material you need.” We’ll show them how to get the word out that they’re the big dogs in their area, or the up and coming trendsetters in their market. NHJ: So you want to become a marketing resource as well as a fashion leader? CP: If our customers need help, we’ll be there. Now we realize that when you talk about style and fashion trends you may drive people into a studio, a salon, or a wig shop and they may buy somebody else’s product. That’s part of the world we live in. But if we grow the market and we’re the best in that market, we’re going to gain the most market share. NHJ: You inherited a website with perhaps the best domain name in the industry. How important is this to your marketing planning? (cont. on pg.10)
8 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
The National Hair Journal PROMOTING
Medical Section
COOPERATION BETWEEN THE ARTISTRY OF HAIR REPLACEMENT AND THE SCIENCE OF HAIR RESTORATION patented process of methods and practices performed during hair restoration surgery. Dr Martinick was the first Australian and first woman to receive the highest honour in hair restoration, being awarded the ISHRS Platinum Follicle Award in New York, 2003. Dr Martinick continues to practice and enhance the ‘Gold Standard’ in hair transplantation at her clinics in Perth & Sydney, Australia and also practices regularly in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. We are privileged to have Dr. Martinique share her goals and priorities for 2012 with Hair Journal readers.
Looking Ahead into 2012 A personal message from Jennifer Martinick, Incoming president, ISHRS Dr Jennifer Martinick was appointed President of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgeons (ISHRS) in September 2011. She has received international prominence for her studies on damaged (transected) hair and pioneered new medical procedures, including the Martinick Technique™, a
I am honoured in being elected as the President of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) for 2011-2012. While committed to fulfilling the Society’s long established and valued role of promoting education, research, ethics and camaraderie, I am equally dedicated to ensuring the ISHRS remains both prominent and relevant in our changing and challenging economic and social environment. Sound governance of any professional association requires the ability to listen to members’ changing needs, respond appropriately and continue to ‘value add’. Hence, I believe the ISHRS has to maintain focus and relevance over time. The market for hair restoration treatments is changing at an accelerated rate, resulting in challenges and opportunities for those involved in caring for people with hair loss. An example of this changing environment is seen in the results of a 2010 Needs Assessment Survey of ISHRS members. This survey found that over half of ISHRS members are now non-US based, over 70% of an average practice is dedicated to hair restoration surgery and two thirds of ISHRS members are in solo practice. The vast majority of members surveyed reported the ISHRS has been an effective educator in hair restoration surgery and the clini-
cal issues relating to it. However, when asked “What the ISHRS could do to improve the value of membership?” our members called for initiatives to improve ethics and enhance professional credibility amongst the medical profession and wider public across the globe. Many called for formalised means to distinguish those dedicated physicians who regularly attend ISHRS meetings and other forms of professional development. Members also asked for assistance with training and retaining new staff as well as with practice management. The desire for greater public awareness and better global penetration of the ISHRS continues to be a priority.
Ethics and Professional Credibility. The professional credibility of the ISHRS depends on our members’ conduct and the results they achieve for their patients. Along with education, the ISHRS promotes a culture of integrity, reminding members of the need for honesty when dealing with patient concerns and expectations. The Society’s ongoing educational programs are focused on providing members with the tools needed to deliver completely natural looking hair transplants. Today’s natural looking hair transplants are a direct outcome of the many years of research and experience of our senior members who have selflessly shared their expertise with other colleagues at annual meetings over the past 20 years. These dedicated physicians, who have contributed to this refinement of surgery and attainment of excellence, deserve recognition. As with any branch of surgery, there is a learning curve; it is only natural to assume that the surgeon who has been practicing for over 10 years is more experienced than one who’s been practicing for one or two years. To this end, I hope to establish a separate
ISHRS Fellowship Members’ category of recognition at the Bahamas 2012 meeting. All ISHRS physicians can aspire to becoming a Fellow Member. Entry to the category may depend on basic learning, regular attendance and presenting at scientific meetings, maintaining high ethical standards towards patients and continuously practicing hair transplantation over a period of years.
Practice management as well as training and retaining staff. While many new doctors are passionate about medicine and maintaining high surgical standards, these doctors admit that issues such as managing their practice, training and retaining staff, can be daunting. After all, practice management does not come naturally for most physicians. While commercial training and mentoring from experienced doctors is integral to building a thriving practice, it is also dependent on a physician’s ability to develop strategic alliances with other professionals across the hair restoration industry. Developing these alliances and co-operating to ultimately deliver better outcomes for the many millions of people across the globe affected by hair loss is another initiative that I intend to pursue. Of course all the initiatives outlined above depend on effective communication across all forms of traditional and social media. To this end, the ISHRS has formed a Communication and Public Awareness Committee. This critical task is ultimately designed to ensure the public, including the valued readers of the National Hair Journal, hears more about the latest developments in surgical hair restoration. Now celebrating 20 years of promoting camaraderie, education, research and ethics, I believe our maturing society, is ready to make big strides forward. NHJ We look forward to working with you all.
9 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
10 The National Hair Journal Fall 2011
Why I’m Upbeat
(cont. from pg.7)
CP: Hairloss.com is a phenomenal website and asset. The number of people who come to it grows every month. This is a site that has serious information. It is driven by the consumer who needs help. I have a relative who is going through chemo and radiation. The doctors and nurses didn’t know where to send her for advice about her hair. There are a lot of people like her out there who are looking for help. Our job is to be there. We are not going to allow our website to become commercial and start putting up banner ads for Ford Motor Company or Burger King. NHJ: Hairloss.com is an industry resource. It raises the tide for all ships in the industry. CP: It’s only going to get better over time. We are not trying to win awards. Our plan is to make it easily navigable, if that’s a word, so the average man or woman can find support at a time when their world is crumbling. Someplace where they can go and feel that somebody cares. NHJ: This question may be premature because you’re still formulating your marketing plan, but is On Rite targeting a specific segment of the women’s hair addition market? For example, Follea owns the boudoir; they’ve developed an ultra-sophisticated Paris image, and SOCAP is based in Italy and ties in to Italian fashion imagery. Do you have a vision of where On Rite might fit into this landscape? CP: We are not looking to be ultra chic. The women we want to help need solutions. They’ve got bigger fish to fry. They’re looking for an answer that gets them through today’s problem so they can get on with the bigger issues they’ve got to deal with. Certainly, we’re looking to be classy. We are going to be elegant and fashion forward. But we’re not looking to be “bleeding edge”. It’s a piece of the market that isn’t a priority for us at this point in time. NHJ: Let’s turn to the men’s market. The demographics, of course, speak for themselves, but I sense that you see more than aging baby boomers. CP: I’m seeing positive trends across the men’s market. Shaving the head is becoming less and less of an option. People realize that you’re not fooling anybody. Women have wanted to be ten years younger for a long time and now men are finally getting on board saying, “Why do I have to passively accept that I’ve got hereditary hair loss? My father may have had it, and his father before him, but I don’t have to have it. I’ve got alterna-
tives.” People lived with hair loss for centuries, but we’re in a new age today. People don’t want to gray. Men don’t want to become part of that older generation. I’m excited because more and more men are looking for alternatives. We’ve got to get past the Keystone Cops image where people look at a toupee as this funny thing that flips up in the wind. We’ve got to let people know that today’s products let you jump in a pool or take a shower, go out jogging or bicycle in the wind. You can do almost anything. It’s not something you just put on your head. It’s part of you. CP: Without a doubt. Unfortunately, we all remember things that made us laugh when we were young. They stick in our brains and affect our judgment for a long time. Bad hair jokes are regrettably part of that. I don’t think the industry has done a good job of counter-acting bad publicity. We’ve told people what the solutions are but I don’t think we’ve done a real good job of telling them that today’s solution are permanent and become a part of you. NHJ: The paradox may be that you need to use the youth market to ‘sanitize’ the aging market. When kids play with hair and use it as a canvas for self-expression; the older generation will copy them. If kids are tattooing and piercing and bleaching, why not personalized hair additions. If you create excitement at the youth end, you automatically destigmatize the aging market. CP: Right. Howie Mandel went on one of the late night shows and he had a full head of hair. Now everybody knows Howie Mandel has been shaving his head, but how many people remember what he actually looked like five years ago? Nobody. If he continues with hair, how many people will remember him with the shaved head? Men are coming to realize the same thing that women have known for years, “I can get extensions and nobody remembers that I used to have short, unattractive hair.” Well, men are now saying, “You know? I have an alternative. This will be the new me.” It’s taken a while, but men are starting to catch up and say, “If it works for women, why can’t it work for me? That’s why I’m very energized about the men’s market. NHJ: On Rite was recently purchased by a large Chinese consortium. Will your customers now be dealing with an impersonal machine or will there still be a friendly face out there?” CP: Our new owners purchased On Rite for its strengths so they will never let it become impersonal. The thing that has made On Rite great over
the years - and the reason that I jumped in here when Andy gave me the opportunity - is because this company is based on customer service. Customer service is what our clients look to us for and that’s what we’re going to continue to deliver. NHJ: Hair quality; it’s been an uneven twelve months and prices continue to rise. Are things going to get better? CP: The truth is it’s all about supply and demand. Human hair, whether it is European hair or Remy hair, is in short supply. China is becoming more of an urban nation. People don’t sell their hair the way they used to. The key is to have good suppliers and strong relationships. We’re blessed that Andy built a great organization here and in China, so we obviously have those connections. NHJ: Like everyone else. Your customers are being bombarded with solicitations from manufacturers offering cheaper hair. CP: With a website and an e-mail blast anyone can create any impression they wish. However, the real question is can they live up to it? Since our inception in 1975 (36 years ago) it has always been On Rite’s philosophy to deliver the best possible product at the best possible price, with the best possible service... all guaranteed! The retail establishment has come to expect that from On Rite, and it is our responsibility to live up to those high standards. So now the question is, do we become the cheapest supplier, cancel quality and reliable service, and have no product guarantee? We all know the correct answer; customer service, quality, and a guarantee are all very important in today’s market. NHJ: We frequently hear managers say, “I’m not able to afford television advertising anymore. I don’t understand the Internet. The kids don’t want to come into this business. What am I doing wrong?” How do you answer them? CP: I’d tell them, you’re not doing anything wrong. This is typical of a lot of businesses. That’s why you need to get involved with a company that provides marketing support. We’ll take your hand and show you that there are productive ways to do advertising that fits your budget. There are ways to get into radio and print advertising without breaking the bank. We’re working to become a marketing machine. We’re trying to build links so customers can share our web content. There’s a lot going on behind the scenes. Again, I’ve only been here a short period of time so a lot of this is still on the books. But if a customer has a need, we’ll try to fix it.
NHJ: Peering over the horizon together, are there any new products people should be getting excited about? CP: Well there’s one thing you didn’t touch on which is our hair extension line, called “Ultratress.” As I said earlier, no 50-year-old woman is going to turn back the clock and say, “Oh, it’s okay. I’ll start looking 50.” Extensions are here to stay. Quality hair extensions are what we are all about. There are a lot of people who are looking for a higher quality alternative. Extensions are also an alternative for the woman with thinning hair. Again, customer service will lead the way because a lot of salon owners now realize they’re missing out on a growth market and want help getting started. We’re that resource. Just watch us. Between Gemtress and Ultratress there’s going to be a lot of growth here. NHJ: One final question, for readers of the National Hair Journal who don’t know you yet, what would you like to tell them? CP: It’s simple. I hope to follow in the footsteps of what’s made this company great, which is quality, consistency, and customer service. I do not want to change it. You don’t fix what ain’t broke. There are areas here that I would like to focus on and we are going after them. The thing people need to know about me is I came from a fashion background in New York. I worked with Tressallure/General Wig in the Aderans Group for over five years so I also know alternative hair. Yes it was the women’s market and I am really a fledgling guy in the men’s area, but men are as fashion conscious these days as women are. Men care about their looks. Men spend an awful lot more time in front of the mirror than they used to. Men care about how they dress, how they look. What’s the old phrase: Youth belongs to the young? Well who wants to get old? On a personal level, I’m a runner. I used to run four miles a day. I’m down to three. If that makes me part of the graying of America, I apologize. I am trying to bring myself back. I enjoy running. I enjoy bicycling. I work out every day. I refuse to accept the idea of getting old. Anyone who knows me knows that I joke about it all the time, but gosh darn it, they’re going to have to drag me away kicking and screaming because I won’t go. NHJ: How would you like to be seen by your customers one year from now? CP: I’ve been at On Rite almost six months and I can honestly say I am excited about being here. I am loving it every day. (cont. on pg. 21)
11 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
12 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
HairTech 2012 n previous editions of The National Hair Journal, we covered advances in medical hair restoration, hair growth drugs and robotassisted hair transplant surgery. In this issue, we return to our roots and bring you the latest news in non-surgical hair replacement and hair additions. The following articles were written by the major manufacturers and distributors themselves. We wrote to them and asked them to send us a summary of their latest products and share their vision for 2012. And where there are new shakers and movers, we interviewed them also so you could get to know them better. We hope the new products described in HairTech 2012 will help you provide your clients with even better hairloss solutions.
I
American Hairlines
HairUWear HairUWear – Introduces the New Raquel Welch™ Wig Collection The new Raquel Welch™ Sheer Indulgence™ collection offers women 9
Finesse
one clip in bang. From a short boy cut with spiked-out ends, to longer, sultrier lengths, there’s something for everyone. For longer lengths, there are the Bravo, Limelight, Magic and Encore designs.
Encore
new styles from human hair bangs to beautiful lace front wigs with virtually invisible hairlines for off-the-face styling. All wigs are lightweight, comfortable and easy to wear. Made with her patented Memory Cap® II capless construction, they feature a new stretch lace that’s cooler and lighter than before. Not only are
Magic
Bravo features 100% fine human hair, Limelight is made with True2Life® heatfriendly fiber that is designed to look and act like real hair, and allows customers to curl or flat iron the hair using heating tools up to 350 degrees, while Encore and Magic are made with HairUWear’s exclusive Vibralite® fiber. HairUWear’s popular Memory Cap II wigs are now available in Sheer Indulgence construction. Winner Elite, a short pixie cut, is 100% hand tied for light comfort. Clients looking for a bob style will love the below-the-chin length of Finesse or the shorter, below-the-cheek length of the Opening Act. Both of these elegant cuts will compliment just about any face shape. Finally, with razored layers and just under
Our mission at American Hairlines is to create products that parallel what artists and consumers crave; customizable, transformative, and profitablydesigned solutions for hair loss.
Limelight
something they wear. It’s that sheer. The Ultima creates a natural hairline that it becomes easy to upgrade the most discerning client. Ultima The Ultima, utilizing the derma-lens technology, provides an excellent upgrade trial system. The derma-lens has a unique flexible base so it keeps its shape, prevents
tearing, and bonds better than any skin system we have ever offered. The skin in the Ultima is the thinnest of any Virtual Reality hair graft. We want clients to feel the Ultima becomes part of them, not
The Contessa & Princessa - Royalty or Beauty Queen? Both these categories describe the Contessa and Princessa full cap transformable wigs from our Black Label Collection. Both designs are made with 100% Eastern European Hair. The hair is made incorporating a slow color process to help ensure incredible shine, body and a luxurious feel. Both designs feature nonslip skin materials that naturally conform to the shape of the client’s head, making it comfortable to wear in any situation. The invisible lace front tops off the beautiful aesthetics. “A Crown of Glory” worn by a true American princess.” The hairstylist working with the reigning Miss America selected the Contessa for its versatility, perfect fit, and high quality European hair. Her exact words were, “When I applied the Contessa to Teresa’s head, the transformation was amazing. She now had it all: beauty, brains, wit, maturity, and now, beautiful hair!” NHJ
these wigs breathable for all day wear, they mold to the shape of the head, giving a custom-like fit every time.
Sparkle
2 ounces in weight, there is the Sparkle synthetic fiber Memory Cap II wig from the Raquel Welch™ Signature Collection.
OpeningAct
All wigs feature monofilament hand knotting - whether it be the top, part, crown or a 100% hand made. Hand knotted tops give the look of natural hair growth and allow clients to part and style their new hair in any direction. Sheer Indulgence crowns add a smooth natural contour to the top of the head. Hand blended colors add the finishing touch. This new fashion collection offers 8 new wig styles, five new lace front wigs, and
For clients who want to change their look but don’t want to make the commitment to cut bangs, the Raquel Welch™ Human Hair Bang is a good solution. This new clip-in hair piece has 2 pressure sensitive clips for an easy and secure attachment. Bangs are the hot new trend and this simple hair addition lets your customers enjoy them today! Wear the bang forward or as a side swept. Since this piece is made with 100% fine human hair, clients can style it just like their own hair. Looking and feeling glamorous is easier than ever with Raquel Welch’s 9 newest styles. NHJ
13 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
All That’s New in Hair Addition and Hair Replacement
Hair Art – Back To the Future Hair Art is a multi-faceted business. Most people know it for its wholesale operation, selling styling aids and accessories. But that is only the tip of the iceberg. The Hair Art empire includes three retail centers, a hair distribution network, a beauty supply company and a hair factory in Thailand. The man behind the company is Jackie Yu, a second-generation hair specialist. Jackie has plans to change the way the hair replacement industry does business. He believes it’s time to return to the good old days when quality was king. To find out more, The Journal met with Mr. Yu in his Los Angeles office. NHJ: Jackie, you are that rare hair professional who combines an intimate knowledge of the Chinese hair market with an in depth understanding of business needs in the United States. You also own and operate manufacturing, distribution and retail businesses of your own. How did this all come about? JY: I was born into the hair business. My father used to manufacture hairpieces and hairnets. In the old days, women used to wear hairnets to keep their hair in place; that's how my dad got started. So I actually grew up in the business. That's what gave me the technical background. I learned how to process human hair at an early age and how to make wigs and hairpieces. NHJ: But the hair industry was changing and this led you to leave China and move overseas. JY: In the seventies, the wig business switched to Korea and they began to dominate production. So I closed my factory in China and was faced with a choice. Either I could choose a new career in another industry or move to another market that needed my skills and rebuild. It turned out that one of my old customers owned a hair replacement center in Hong Kong so I helped him blend hair and manage some of his own production problems. I ended up working for him for three years. This was valuable experience for me because I learned how to customize hairpieces for his clients. Now I had a strong background in hair selection and processing, plus hairpiece design and customization. NHJ: But you did not remain in Hong Kong. You were young and ambitious... what happened next? JU: Having grown up in a family business, I needed to be independent. I wanted my own business. So I bought a ticket to America “to seek my fortune” as they say. NHJ: How did you start? JY: I rented a small studio in Hollywood. It was on Sunset Boulevard; it was tiny, about 400 square feet. Now we have 3 retail centers, one here in Los Angeles, one in the San Fernando Valley and another in Orange County. NHJ: The name on your business card says, “Hair Art.” Is this how your company has always been known? JY: In the beginning we called it, “Unique Hair.” I didn’t know anything about intellectual property and things like that so we never registered the trademark. We were too busy building the business. In fact, we didn't even have a logo. That's how small we were. But in 1984, after we'd been in business about 5 years, I realized that the name needed to be changed and protected. NHJ: Were you strictly a retail operation? JY: Not quite. I was servicing clients, but I was making my own hair systems. I didn’t see the need to buy hair from a manufacturer when I had all the production skills I needed in-house. NHJ: Your wife is also a technical expert. Was she helping you in the business? JY: Yes. She had been working alongside me in Hong Kong and is now a key part of the new business in California. We've been working together now for over 30 years. NHJ: A few years later, you returned to your manufacturing roots (forgive the pun!) and set up a hair factory of your own. How
did this come about? JY: I had been manufacturing my own hairpieces for some time and had built a good reputation. One day I met the owner of the first Hair Club franchise and he was looking for a supplier of high quality pieces. Hair Club was growing rapidly and he needed a fast turnaround without sacrificing the quality. The volume of orders was more than I could handle locally, so I decided it was time to start a new production center overseas. NHJ: How did you decide on the location? JY: We took it very seriously. We conducted an
“I believe there is an opportunity to introduce a premium collection of men's and women's hair products for people who are prepared to pay for a superior product.”
economic, business and political analysis of a number of possible countries and finally decided on Thailand. We were actually the first company to establish a hair production center in that country. It turned out to be an excellent choice. Thai workers are extremely loyal - in this business it takes a long time to train a technician, so it's important to avoid a lot of turnover. In China, for example, the turnover is very high, and it shows. By comparison, many of our Thai ventilators have been with us since we opened 20 years ago. You can’t buy that kind of experience! NHJ: Over the years you have also accumulated a substantial inventory of high-quality human hair. JY: I have always wanted to be different from other manufacturers in the industry. So I have always searched for different sources of high quality hair. I started with the Indian Remy hair, which is better than the usual heavily processed hair. Then I began to use more and more European hair, which is more natural looking and is longer lasting. European hair is simply the best in the business and gives the best possible match for most American and European clients. I have been carefully building my stock of this high-quality hair. I personally inspect and check every shipment before we send it on to our factory. NHJ: Everybody claims to have European
hair… do they? JY: It depends on the definition of European hair. It's very tricky. Some distributors claim to have “European texture” hair or “European processed” hair. Others say they have, “European alternative” hair. But as a generalization, I would say that 90% of these distributors are not using native European hair but a blend of European and Indian, or even Mongolian hair. You see, European hair is not that easy to collect. Real European hair has a lot of different textures and lots of different colors. So a big manufacturer has to invest a lot of money to assemble the massive inventory of uniform colors and textures they need for mass production. NHJ: Unscrupulous dealers use a lot of tricks to disguise the origin of their hair. What are some of the things that salon owners need to be aware of? JY: Some of the tricks are obvious. For example they should look out for what is called, “Italian processed hair,” which is usually Indian Remy hair that is being trans-shipped through Italy. If you look at the statistics you will see that Italy imports the same amount of Indian hair as it exports. One way to check the type of hair you are getting is to look at the ends. European hair is lighter at the end. The roots are always darker. The next thing to do is touch it. If you slide your finger up a strand of hair you should feel resistance that tells you the cuticle is still intact. If your finger slides easily, it's probably because it’s inferior hair with a silicone coating. NHJ: Are these tests something the average salon owner can do himself or herself? JY: Most owners should be able to feel and see the difference. But if the don't feel it with their fingers, they can hold the hair between their lips. Lips are very sensitive and this will help them feel if the cuticle is still there. NHJ: To recap, you have production experience, you have experience servicing clients, and you specialize in premium human hair. This is not only a unique combination of business skills; it also gives you important marketing opportunities. JY: A lot of salon owners are really concerned about the falling quality of human hair. I believe there is an opportunity to introduce a premium collection of men's and women's hair products for people who are prepared to pay for a superior product. NHJ: You have already launched a high-end women's collection. What is the name of that line? JY: We call it, “House of European Hair.” It includes wigs, extensions and top pieces. NHJ: What about the men's collection? JY: We plan to launch that early next year. Men spend a lot of money trying to look good and most of them get poor quality hair, which they are compelled to replace often. Some men are replacing their hair systems 12 or 16 times a year
and are still not happy. My clients only buy two hair systems a year at the most. They look good every day and they don't have to worry about hair loss or oxidation. NHJ: In the old days of hair replacement, most clients were like that. They had one hair system and what was called a, “switch.” Even when they switched between these two familiar test systems, they were nervous in case they did not look the same and friends or coworkers would notice the difference. JY: Hair is not like a car or clothing where new is exciting. Most hair replacement clients want consistency, not something different. NHJ: If I was one of your clients wearing a premium hair system, would I really be aware of the difference? JY: You would immediately notice that your hair is easier to work with. When you touch it, you would notice a difference in texture. It will not feel dry and brittle like over-processed hair. NHJ: What does it mean when you say, “easier to work with.” JY: It will behave just like your own growing hair. It will not do anything different from healthy growing hair. After you've washed your hair, you can towel dry or blow-dry it in the normal way. There won't be any surprises or compromises. I personally wear one of these hair systems and I don't need help from any special mousse or conditioner. NHJ: You live in California. What about the resistance of your hair to UV radiation? JY: Because our hair keeps its protective cuticle and has never been damaged by aggressive chemicals, it stands up well to UV exposure. Keeping the hair in its natural state is the best defense against oxidation. We try never to use dyes or coloring agents. NHJ: Are you saying that you don’t color correct or dye your hair to match the client’s sample? JY: That's right. We use natural hair and blend it as necessary to achieve highlights or match streaks in the client’s growing hair. The hair's natural pigmentation not only looks best, it’s the best defense against fading. NHJ: Are there any situations in which you would remove the cuticle? JY: Sometimes we will remove the cuticle at the knot where the hair is tied into the filament or attached to the base to avoid tangling. But we leave the rest of the hair shaft intact. NHJ: We’ve talked about technology... what about styling? What is the inspiration for your new styles? JY: The first thing I pay attention to is what my retail clients are telling me. I make a point of talking to as many clients as possible to see what they want from their hair. Then of course, I attend hair and fashion shows all over the world, from Hong Kong to Europe. This shows me what styles are fashionable today and what designers are working on for the future. NHJ: Quality always comes at a price. Will salon owners have to pay a substantial premium for your top-quality systems? JY: Since I have a substantial inventory, I am able to keep my prices stable. But you are right, premium hair does cost extra. How much? Perhaps 20 to 25% more than people are paying today for a product they are not happy with. My product is not for everyone, but for some clients, it’s the only choice. NHJ: Any final comments? JY: Yes, I think the market is hungry for a higher quality product that will maintain its value. We are seeing men wearing their hair longer and becoming more style conscious. Women too are looking for more and longer hair. That's why hair extensions and clip-ons are so popular. These are all positive signs. I’m very optimistic about the future. NHJ
14 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
All That’s New in Hair Addition and Hair Replacement
Hair & Compounds Few people have the experience and technical expertise of Isaac Bracha, owner of several premium hair businesses across the world. He is constantly on the move, supervising hair processing in Chennai, in the south of India, negotiating hair purchases in Ukraine and Russia and overseeing his advanced hair laboratory and hair conditioning center in California. You may not have heard of Hair & Compounds, but you have certainly seen his hair in Hollywood movies and on the heads of some of the world’s most famous celebrities. When there is a critical hair situation, chances are the studio, make-up artist or salon owner will turn to Isaac Bracha. Hair & Compounds does not want to be part of the larger, commercial market, preferring to focus on highquality custom projects. Isaac Bracha has been a technical advisor to The National Hair Journal for many years and before he boarded a plane for Europe, we asked him to comment on the global trends he sees in the hair market. Hair Journal: You are involved in every step of the hair addition market, from sourcing supplies, negotiating prices, quality control and processing to design and production. What are the salient industry trends that you have observed? Business owners are concerned because it is difficult for them to plan ahead when they don’t know how to structure their pricing plans or even what products to offer. Isaac Bracha: The problems may seem more acute to them, but actually I don’t see any changes from 2010. Price increases and supply shortages are trends we have been observing for the last couple of years and will probably see for the next few years. NHJ: Hair is becoming a valuable commodity. IB: No question about that. NHJ: Are these increases occurring globally or only select locations? IB: As the owner of a factory in India, I can tell you that local prices keep going up all the time. This has nothing to do with the Indian economy. All the hair is being exported. Even though the world economy has been bad, the global demand for hair keeps driving up prices. As the owner of a business in Kiev I can tell you that the situation is no different in Russia. Actually, the prices in Russia did not increase as much in the last year because Western customers simply cannot pay more than they are already. Unless they want to lose customers, Russian distributors are forced to minimize price increases, even at the expense of their own profit margins. One thing that may surprise you is the fact that Russian and Ukrainian distributors last year actually became importers, not exporters of human hair. I can tell you this because as some of them approached my company in India looking to buy Indian hair to ship to Russia. As a result, I am now seeing more and more Indian hair being blended into the bundles of Russian hair. How much? It depends on the ethics of the Russian exporter. NHJ: So now even experienced manufacturers are at risk when they order what they believe is authentic Russian hair? IB: Many of the people buying hair on the international market do not have the expertise to spot the difference. I know most of the buyers from the United States and Europe and most of them don’t have that kind of knowledge. That’s why they send me samples of hair to analyze. It is almost impossible to tell the difference without special equipment. The only way I can suggest they check the origin of the hair they are offered is to always ask the seller for the lightest blonde that they have. Every single natural blonde bundle should have natural streaks. The bundle will not be made
from the hair from one person and you should not see a uniform blonde color and texture. There should be many streaks, many shades of blonde inside. If it has these different shades, most likely... not always because they getting more sophisticated... you have authentic European hair. If it’s too beautiful, or all one length, or 75% clean of shorthair, or if there is one unified layer of blond, then there is a good chance that it is Indian hair. Short hair inside the bundle is probably the main thing to look for. Paradoxically, some of the exporters are encouraged to cheat because their customers complain when they see short hairs in the bundle, not understanding that this is the way it is with genuine Russian hair. The reality is no one can supply just one length of hair. It’s just impossible. By demanding that the hair be all one length, the buyer is actually forcing the seller to cheat. NHJ: Earlier, you said that the average person could not tell the difference between Indian hair and authentic Russian or Ukrainian hair. If they cannot tell the difference, does it actually matter? IB: Simple answer; yes. Russian hair is the best hair. It is better quality and there are a number of ways to test and prove it. But that’s not the real issue. The important thing is to match the hair to that of the client. Let’s talk about the diameter. If there is not a perfect match, it will look strange. Different thicknesses have different light reflection qualities. Light reflection for many clients is a sign of quality, so it becomes very complicated. Finally, if you’re paying higher prices for Russian, then you should get what you pay for! NHJ: You’ve been talking about the difference of thickness of hair. How significant is this difference? IB: There is about a 100-150% difference between the thickness, or denier, of Chinese hair and Russian hair. And it’s very noticeable. NHJ: If we sent you a bundle of hair and asked you to identify it, what specific steps would you take as part of your analysis? IB: The first thing I would do is just feel the bundle and check for cuticle. Many of the bundles don’t even have cuticle. In order to give the hair the fine feel and look of Russian hair, many factories will remove the cuticle. By doing this, they also reduce the diameter. But if I’m only checking the diameter I may miss the whole truth. I have sophisticated devices that measure the diameter, for example Russian hair should be approximately 45 µ (microns), but it may vary between 43 or even 48, depending on the color. If it’s dark it may be 48 µ. If it’s blonde it may be 43 or 45 µ. It’s also impor-
tant to measure the hair in 3 different regions. The root, the middle section, and then the tip. You then calculate the average. So, to recap, the first step is to feel the hair, check that the cuticle is intact and measure the diameter. I would then want to look at the color of the hair. If I place it under the microscope, I will be able to tell you in no time whether it’s natural, according to the size and sometimes the shape of the cuticle. Remember all hair is processed to some degree, even my own hair. Once you start to comb your hair or hackle it, you have begun to process it. I can go much further in my analysis, but I don’t want to confuse your readers. In the end, it’s a question of how much money the client wants to spend. For example I can use a tensiometer to check the surface energy of the hair and I would be able to tell you if it had been bleached or not. There are all kinds of bleaches. If it has been bleached carefully, my microscope might not be able to see it, but if I put it in the tensiometer I will be able to tell. It’s extremely sensitive. It could even tell you if the hair had been touched by oily fingers. Just one touch with dirty fingers will change the surface energy of the hair in that area. Usually, I’m able to convince my customers that I know enough and can give them a verdict on their hair without using the tensiometer and spending a lot of money. It’s sad that I have to do this kind of testing because it shows the condition of our industry, but manufacturers have learned a lot of sophisticated tricks and unfortunately many of their clients don’t know how to defend themselves and so they come to me. NHJ: What steps can an average customer take to protect himself? IB: That’s a great question, but I don’t know the answer. Perhaps we should get together one weekend and prepare a procedure or checklist
$65,000 in those days... now it would be over $100,000. And then we started to talk and I suddenly realized that all he wanted was a microscope in his office so he could tell his customers he had this advanced technology and let them think that he was analyzing all the hair for them. I told him I could not support him and that he should go elsewhere. Unfortunately that side of the industry exists. It’s very sad. If a company, any company, were to come to me and ask for my help setting up a quality control system, I don’t care if they’re a competitor or not, I would help them. I would even give them training. I wouldn’t have a problem with that. I believe in competition, but I also believe in high standards. NHJ: You talked earlier about the blending of Asian and Eastern European hair. Is this behavior happening in other markets also? IB: Of course. In India they do it a lot. Some exporters simply sell non-cuticle hair as cuticle hair... and they’re getting away with it! NHJ: Why is hair quality deteriorating? IB: I cannot give you statistical answers because you’re asking me about an entire industry and I only know about my own factories. But let’s be clear. Everything you do to hair, including combing and hackling creates some kind of damage to the hair. What do I mean by damage? Well, the most important thing is the loss of moisture. Moisture is the single most important factor in the behavior of hair. It’s what defines the quality of the hair, especially in the eyes of the customer. Good moisture will contribute to the strength and elasticity of the hair. When the hair has sufficient moisture it is also stronger. We can see that right away in our tests. The graphs show significant improvements in tensile strength when there is adequate moisture. Light reflection is also better, meaning the color is fuller
for Hair Society members or Journal readers that you could print or post on your website. We could prepare a video so they would know how to protect themselves. It’s all about knowledge and training. NHJ: Do they also need to buy sophisticated equipment to go with that new knowledge? IB: No. Absolutely nothing. Just serious training. NHJ: How widespread is the problem? IB: There are highly ethical companies who resent this dishonesty as much as I do. But there are others, in places you would never suspect, who are ready to bend the rules. I was contacted once by one of the big hair distributors who wanted to know how much it would cost to buy a microscope like the one I have in my lab. I told them it would be, $45,000 or
and deeper. So moisture has a tremendous impact on durability, look and texture. NHJ: You have a presence in two critical markets, India and Russia. Taking India first, women in that country donate their hair to their temple as part of a cultural and religious tradition. With the arrival of the Internet and better information sharing, do they feel they are being taken advantage of? IB: Donations are decreasing, but I don’t think it’s because of the Internet. If you go to India today, even in the more traditional South of the country you’ll see women with short hair. That is something you would never have seen 10 years ago. If you had told me 10 years ago that some of my workers would come to the factory with a short haircut everyone would have laughed, men and women included. I’m not
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All That’s New in Hair Addition and Hair Replacement
Hair Loss Control Clinic talking about city centers; I’m talking about outside the city in the countryside. These are women who have worn their hair long and taken great pride in their appearance for centuries. So things are changing. There may be something else going on too. I hear from my guys that they are getting phone calls from individual women, private women, who are willing to sell their hair. I understand from other suppliers that they are getting these phone calls too. This is something that was unheard of until a couple of years ago. NHJ: Switching to Russia, how do women donate or sell their hair? IB: In Russia no one donates. They sell the hair. Things are becoming more competitive, you could even say more aggressive. Companies I know in some of the smaller cities have armed guards, sometimes 10 or 15 soldiers with guns guarding their supplies. It’s a serious business. NHJ: Who collects the hair from the women? How is it organized? IB: Much of the hair business is controlled by the mafia. Each group has its own territory. Some companies have 10 to 15 mafia soldiers guarding their business. I’m talking about guarding with machine guns. It’s not a joke; this is serious business. In one city (name withheld) two or three mafia are competing for territory and it can get quite bloody. People are killed because of shootouts. Things are different in larger cities. In Kiev for example, not many women sell their hair. It’s in the rural areas where women sell their hair that the competition is most aggressive. NHJ: We talked about the past and the trends in the market. Looking forward, from what you’re telling us, it does not appear that things are going to get much better. Are we entering the age of synthetic hair? IB: I have no doubt about that. As far as Russian hair is concerned, despite everything you might hear, there are only 2 or 3 companies actually selling Russian hair in their finished product. The high prices are going to make it difficult for new companies to enter this premium segment of the market, so this may handicap innovation and reduce competition. At my company, we stopped selling bulk Russian hair 3 or 4 years ago. And even if you called today and asked for a finished product, let’s say 3 kg, or 5 kg of finished product, even though it would cost you around $40-$50,000 I don’t have it in stock right now. How long would it take to get it? Well, it’s not a matter of weeks it’s several months. If you ordered today, you might have to wait until March or April. I have commitments to existing customers and my pipeline is full. My business is built on the quality. And the quality is simply is not out there in bulk. It takes careful research and that takes time. NHJ: Because of those high prices, only people with deep pockets like the film studios can afford premium Russian hair. Are the studios still prepared to pay for quality? IB: Yes, they pay whatever it takes for the highest quality. As screen sizes get bigger and image resolution gets sharper, they have no choice. NHJ: I remember from a previous conversation that the beautiful long hair seen in; “Memoirs of a Geisha” came from you. What other motion pictures featured your product? IB: Actually, we used Indian hair in “Geisha” because it was the best match. As for more recent movies, I really don’t have time to track them anymore. My staff used to post this to our website, but we are so busy that I have to admit that we don’t
update it regularly. We used to notify the media six to nine months in advance of new movie releases to let them know what stars were wearing our hair and what movies to watch to see them. Our customers loved this and they pointed out to their own clients that top Hollywood talent was wearing the same hair as them. Unfortunately, other companies began to use that information to try and get a free ride on our work, so we do things differently now. We are very specific about the star, his or her hair design or addition, so there can be no absolutely no ambiguity about who did what. NHJ: We talked earlier about the increasing value of hair. You were reminded of this recently when your own premises were invaded by thieves. What advice would you give other hair wholesalers? IB: If you buy Russian hair, or have a substantial inventory of good hairpieces, you need to setup a security system immediately. At our business we have installed cameras. We make sure that every customer and visitor knows that our premises are under constant surveillance. I also recommend that they use a buzzer to control access. Don’t let people in until you have checked their identity. And probably the most important thing; do not keep a lot of inventory at your business, and do not talk to your customers about any hair that you have in the back. When I was burglarized, the thieves were specifically looking for Russian hair. I don’t know how, but they had done their homework and were only going after the most expensive merchandise. They did not come to look for hair, they were waving guns and screaming, “Where’s the Russian hair!” NHJ: Our readers don’t know about the terrible experience your staff suffered. As a salutary lesson, can we give a very brief summary? We’ll start - 3 men burst into your offices waving guns. They were looking for Russian hair, so they had obviously done their homework in advance... IB: They had either done their own research or attended some kind of event and overheard people talking about us. The police won’t give us more information until after the court case. NHJ: Why would they steal hair instead of robbing a bank or a liquor store? IB: A kilo of finished product, say hair extensions made from Russian hair is worth $7000 or $8000. How many bottles of cognac would you need to carry out of a liquor store to get nearly $10,000? NHJ: We always like to end our discussions on a high note. Where is the good news in the market you have been describing? IB: Where you have a valuable commodity, there is always a business opportunity. Hair has gone from being a commodity to being a strategic resource. Because of this, marketing and advertising will become more important than production and distribution. Today’s market demands a different skill set. For people with forward vision, this is a time of opportunity. Remember many of America’s fortunes were created during times of hardship. Postscript - For the last two years, Isaac Bracha has been quietly developing a new business venture that has the potential to significantly redefine the way we do business. We are not at liberty to discuss this at this time but when Isaac is ready to come out of the “skunk works” and tell the world what he has been up to, you will read it first in these pages. Meanwhile, our thanks to Isaac for taking time out of his busy schedule to talk with us… and for making our movie going experience more glamorous!
New Product Update Complete Treatment Program The Hair Loss Control Clinic (HLCC) provides products and services for medical clinics, medical spas and hair replacement centers. HLCC’s multi-therapeutic approach provides excellent odds for positive results. Its Scripts Treatment Program includes oral
and topical hair growth nutritionals as well as hair care maintenance products that are specifically formulated for the treatment of hair loss. These programs strive to improve scalp and hair environment as well as significantly inhibit DHT, the active element in balding. Scripts hair loss products also provide complete nutrition for hair, enhance the appearance of thinning hair and help stimulate hair back into its normal growth cycle. The HLCC® Systems are designed to stand
and improved formula enhances Minoxidil eight ways and has been found to be effective for men and women with aggressive hair loss, with only one application per day. Scalp Therapy revitalizes the scalp by removing excessive sebum oils and debris, which restrict fragile hairs from growing. Scalp Therapy is clinically proven and labo-
ratory tested to work beneath the scalp surface to increase the flow of nutrients to the hair follicle’s root. Scalp Therapy contains a high concentration of B Vitamins to help strengthen hair and significantly aids in the penetration of topical hair loss products such as Re-Stim™. Bio-Therapy Shampoo is an herbal DHT Inhibiting Shampoo designed to gently
alone or to work synergistically with low level laser light therapy.
Complete Treatment Program with Re-Stim™ Scripts Complete Oral Supplement was clinically developed to help grow your clients’ hair stronger, fuller, faster and to arrest pattern hair loss in both men and women of all ethnicities. This one step oral solution blocks DHT and gives hair the nutrients it needs to grow optimally, while fighting DHT, the active element in balding. Scripts Complete contains 8 DHT blockers, a comprehensive hair nutritional and MGC™ marine growth complex proven in multiple clinical studies to stop hair loss and re-grow hair. Scripts Re-Stim™ is a new proprietary formula based on their signature product 5% Minoxidil with 5% Saw Palmetto. This new
cleanse the scalp of dirt, pollution and DHT, which has been found to be the primary cause of hair loss. This unique formula also helps fight DHT with 11 DHT inhibitors, particularly when used as part of the Complete Hair Growth System. This specially formulated shampoo is free of sulfates, cocamide DEA and parabens and helps hair look stronger, thicker and provides moisture and shine to all hair types. NHJ
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All That’s New in Hair Addition and Hair Replacement
New Image Labs Adhesives can be applied if needed in the front lace (3/4 inches) as well as the temple and sideburn area. Front lace of 1 inch (not including extension lace with no hair) is soft and contours the front hairline naturally. The actual hair is applied to the foundation with a single fine knot, designed to be virtually undetectable. The inner panels are made of soft net materials, reinforced for durability without compromising thinness and comfort. All this results in a base construction that is revolutionary thin, light
Consistency, Continuity, Accessibility With the many changes in the market, it’s good to know that some things don’t change. For over forty years, New Image Labs Corporation has been unwavering in its commitment to providing hair loss specialists with real solutions that have an impact on their business and the
development. We invite existing and new clients to tap into this to benefit their own business”, states Tony Sciara, President of New Image Labs Corporation. Consistency – Consistency in service, quality and supply; enjoy these benefits as you work
Accessibility – New Image is there for busy hair loss specialists with professional care and expert advice around the clock. We offer tollfree phone numbers and online live chat. Clients can email New Image with any concerns they might have at any hour of the day and expect to hear back from a dedicated team of representatives within 24 hours. And just recently New Image also established a Facebook page specifically for New Image University Members. Product Development New Image is also moving forward strongly on the product side. To help hair loss professionals better service their clients, New Image is a prime solution provider and constantly creates innovative products. The following is a selective preview: Problem: “I have top-tier clients with the highest demands as far as hair quality, look and feel is concerned. I don’t seem to find hair that satisfies them” Solution: Biolon ® Evolution in Hair, as used in Club W. Exclusive to New Image, Biolon Evolution in Hair is an innovation in fiber technology designed to simulate real hair. This fiber is so similar in denier to human hair that it looks and feels like human hair. It holds color longer than most man-made fibers and is available in 23 fashion colors. Under normal conditions, it can last up to one year. Biolon can be curled in steam ovens and styled with hot curlers with a consistent temperature of 320 F to 360 F. Biolon is the perfect solution for discerning clients who demand the best.
lives of the clients they serve. The following commentary was prepared by the company specifically for Hair Journal readers. Client Relations Deeply engrafted in the New Image philosophy is a commitment to consistency, continuity and accessibility. “To go forward strongly in 2012, we added to our infrastructure, forged new supplier relationships and invested in research and
with New Image so you can focus on your core business and don’t have to struggle with inconsistency issues, such as varying product quality, that can harm your business. Continuity – New Image has secured a dependable supply chain that we believe is second to none in the industry. Valuable relationships with hair factories in strategic locations guarantee a steady supply of hair systems at consistently high quality.
Problem: “Some of my medical clients have no hair at all with a highly sensitive scalp. Most hair systems out there cause discomfort to their sensitive skin” Solution: Revolutionary foundation technology, as available in Club W. Thanks to the following features, this foundation is guaranteed to provide high levels of comfort and security: The foundation is non-slip and totally secure on the client’s head, as various portions of the inner foundation design are treated with a special non-slip component. The outmost edge of the foundation is completely customizable from the front lace to the temples to the stretchable panels. All components can be cut down and customized to provide a perfect fit.
and airy, providing immediate relief to those with sensitive skin. Problem: “How can I help clients whose active lifestyle requires the ultimate in bonding?” Solution: eXTreme Pro Series. This four-step application kit is the solution for clients with extreme demands. Humid climate, hot weather, active lifestyle, excessive perspiration – this kit is a perfect addition to your client’s regimen. When all four steps are applied in sequence, New Image guarantees a more extended hold compared to many other bonding products. Problem: “I am looking for ways to increase productivity and save on installation time” Solution: The Smart Tool. From the heartland of Europe where quality and superb craftsmanship meet, we are bringing our clients The Smart Tool, a handcrafted precision cutting tool. This tool allows the user to customize stock units on the client’s head without the concern of injuring the client or damaging the hair system. With The Smart Tool, trimming excess base to customize the fit is a breeze. It can reduce the installation time by 20 to 30 minutes. From innovative fibers to revolutionary base construction, from bonding solutions for extreme demands to cutting tools that set you apart, New Image has solutions that can positively impact your hair loss business. We believe that our new product development, together with consistency, continuity and accessibility is the road to success in 2012 and beyond. NHJ
17 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
All That’s New in Hair Addition and Hair Replacement
International Hairgoods Darla Smith is Technical Director of International Hairgoods (IHI), a Division of Aderan’s Hair Goods, Inc. IHI is best known for its man-made fiber, Cyberhair, and in this commentary, Darla suggests it’s time to take another look at synthetics.
up with, or at least test-drive, new technology. In order to be fully appreciated, Cyberhair needs to be touched. Touch it dry. Touch it wet. Watch how it dries. Now that you’ve read about it, don’t neglect the sensory experience.
The hair-replacement industry is experiencing a shortage of human hair. It is a growing concern. Salon managers should look to other alternatives now! The good news is that there is no need to wait for the future to reap the benefits of futuristic technology because there are excellent man-made alternatives already available. One solution is our own Cyberhair, the result of a technology engineered by our parent company Aderans. Cyberhair looks and feels like human hair and is heat-resistant, durable, color fast, lightweight and comfortable.
Other News from IHI Micro Point Solutions Update - MicroPoint, a non-surgical type of transplant can now be used on front hairlines!
What’s New With Cyberhair? Cyberhair is now created in multiple types of hair: European denier, Asian denier and Textured hair.
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Cyberhair European
Cyberhair Asian
Cyberhair Textured
A water-lover, Cyberhair dries perfectly, returning to its original style with just a shake of a wet head. Cyberhair is easy to maintain. It swims, it saunas, it gets caught in the rain with a
After
New Sentoo Wig Collection from Europe. The new Sentoo collection comprises 7 styles specially designed for women with sensitive needs. They are extra light, engineered for a soft, gentle feel and feature a lace front for an invisible hairline. Sentoo is competitively priced and readily available. It is not sold online. Custom Molding System The latest IHI Molding System uses a hightech, medically safe molding material that offers memory ability and excellent duplication of detail. It becomes transparent when soft, providing a helpful clue that it is ready to mold. As it cools, it becomes opaque in color and hard to the touch. It does not require any lubrication of the skin or any other preparation. The molding material has “memory ability” so technicians can, reheat and reshape the molding material several times until they achieve the desired results.
Non-Invasive Attachments flat tire. Zero maintenance. And when exposed to sun or heat, Cyberhair will not fade, will not lose curl, and is surprisingly lightweight and cool. Cyberhair is used in multiple solutions for hair loss: ‘Micro Point Solutions’ (microsize hair volumizer), ‘Private Issue’ medical wigs and ‘Cyberhair’ full custom designed wigs, top of head systems and integrations. Skeptical of nonhuman hair? Well, look at it this way. In an age of life-like synthetics, of
Performaxx Ad Matte Tape No need to apply new tape everyday! Hair Systems may be removed for showering or sleeping and can be re-adhered using the same tape. Add Matte Tape is the 1st no shine tape that can be used as daily-wear tape or as a semi-permanent bond. Performaxx Ad Quick Grip Works for clients with: thinning hair, clip damage, new hair growth, fragile hair or allergies to metals. Unique Features Include: • Flexible for comfort • No adhesive on hair or scalp • No metal materials • Size can be reduced • Available in brown or grey Finger Flex Clips IHI’s Finger Flex clips hold onto fine and thin hair. Apply the red liner tape to polyurethane strip on finger flex clip, and apply to any area of hairpiece with polyurethane. • Unique Features Include: • No irritation. • No more sewing. • No glue. • Less hairloss from rotating clips.
Before
After
silicone and collagen, when sometimes it’s hard to tell what is real and what is “fake”, it’s about time the hair-replacement industry embraced the possibility of synthetically created hair that looks and more importantly feels like human hair. Cyberhair is for studios that keep
Performaxx Ad Attach Works for clients who have allergic reactions to adhesives on scalp and who want a semi-permanent attachment. Unique Features Include: • Flexible for comfort • No adhesive on scalp • No metal materials • Lasts 4 weeks NHJ • Easy removal
18 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
All That’s New in Hair Addition and Hair Replacement
Vern Shears Shear Enjoyment! Matthew Parkes has been in the industry for 20 years. He is a hair stylist and an extension specialist. He is also a Stylist Choice Award holder with the Great Lengths Challenge, one of only three professionals in the United States to receive this award. He works at the Robert Allen Salon & Spa in Ft Lauderdale, FL. Matthew recently discovered Vern Shears, which he now considers vital to his hair extension designs. In this interview he explains how they save him time, wow his clients, and put more money in the bank. Matthew Parkes: I heard about Vern Shears some time ago, but I was stuck in the old school method of using a different shear to complete my extension applications. I don’t know if you know anything about cutting hair extensions, but it can take you three or four different pairs of shears, and anywhere from an hour to an hour and a half to do the haircut. Using the Vern cutting system cuts that time in half! NHJ: How did you first learn about them? MP: Through Oyvind Berg. He did a presentation at the salon I worked at. It was actually done on a live model, so being a person who does extensions; it was an eye opener for me. Up to that moment, I had only considered using them on clients with hair replacements or hair extensions because it takes so much time to cut them in. I discovered that the Vern cutting system works equally well on growing and non-growing hair and it allows you to do three different techniques in just one step. NHJ: How has that affected the way you work? MP: Well, I’ve increased my workload by maybe 40 percent because I can put a haircut out in thirty minutes versus an hour and a half. NHJ: How are the Vern shears configured and how do they work? MP: Vern Shears are a multi-blade cutting system. They have interlocking blades and each blade has a different purpose. So, you would have your cutting blade, you would have your thinning blade, your texturizing blade, and an all-around texture blade. There are different combinations that can be made depending on each client’s needs. It’s like creating a prescription for their hair. NHJ: You are a prize-winning stylist. Does it require advanced skills to use these shears? MP: No, not at all. NHJ: Could they do more harm than good in the wrong hands? MP: Any styling tool can be abused. Vern Shears are simple to learn. The company’s education system is very thorough and they have constant outreach support. So, anytime you have questions, someone is always available to you. NHJ: What is the principal thing that people need to learn to do differently? MP: When working with a regular shear, you would actually open and close your shears three, four, five, maybe even ten times in one cut. With Vern, you have to get used to opening and closing the shear three times. You can only do three snips. That’s probably the hardest thing to get used to. If you can get that, the rest is easy. NHJ: Describe a customer for whom you might have to create a special style, and tell us how you used the shears to achieve it. MP: Say you have a client with fine or thin-
FLASH REPORT ning hair. There is a Vern Shears blade that will only remove five hairs and lets you texturize right next to the scalp. This is completely unheard of in our industry; you cannot do any thinning or any texturizing against the scalp or you’ll have little hairs that’ll stick up. With the Vern Shears, they have the technology and the cut on this blade allows you to put the shear right down on the scalp, do one snip, and it’ll give them lift at the root. NHJ: What about some other blade combinations for different needs? MP: For a basic haircut, your cutting series would be a 4V, and you would use two of them cutting together. If you wanted to cut a bob, if you wanted to do a long-layered haircut, you would just use two 4Vs. If you wanted to cut layers, you could use a 4V and a 4E. NHJ: If you receive a new woman’s wig and need to style and prep it before your client arrives, will Vern Shears save you time? MP: Oh, 100 percent. Usually, when we get a fresh wig it could take anywhere from 30 to
45 minutes from start to finish. With the Vern cutting system, it takes about 15 minutes. NHJ: What about weight? Is it more fatiguing to have a heavier shear in your hand? MP: You really don’t notice a difference, especially since the shear is in your hand for a much shorter period of time. Each individual shear is lightweight, so when you put four together, it’s not like you’re holding something heavy. NHJ: How do your clients react when you produce this radical looking pair of scissors? MP: Some people are like, “Whoa! What are you doing?” or another client would say, “Cool! I want those.” Overall, we’ve had great responses. It’s usually people with thin hair that don’t want us to use them on their hair. But, after they see the effect that the shears give them, they don’t want their hair to be cut with anything else. NHJ: Do the shears work equally well on human and on synthetic hair? MP: Yes. NHJ: Some synthetic hair needs to be cut at a specific angle. Is that an issue with the Vern Shears? MP: Not at all, because with the Vern Shears, the 4V is a cutting blade that actually cuts the hair in a V-shape. So, with each snip, you’re creating texture within that haircut. NHJ: What would you tell a stylist who says, “I like everything that Matthew is telling me,
but these things are very expensive.” MP: This is very common. The best thing to do is to build your collection step by step. You can buy one pair of shears at a time, or you can buy two at a time. You don’t have to buy the whole kit all at once. The company is also very flexible and you can go on a payment plan or whatever it is that you would like to do. NHJ: What would you recommend as a startup program for someone who wanted to add blades a little at a time? MP: They might want to start with a 4V, a 4Ed and a 4Ee. Plan ‘B’ might be to start with a 4V and a second 4V with a 4E. NHJ: Are there technical characteristic like the type of steel or the cutting edge, which makes the blades special? MP: I don’t know about the steel. I do know is that each blade has a patented design for the function it has to perform, whether it be texturizing or thinning or just your basic styling shear. Each blade serves a specific
purpose, and there’s no other out there like it. NHJ: Earlier in our conversation, you were saying that extensions and hair additions are particularly challenging. Why is that? MP: When you receive a shipment of hairpieces, or when you do a whole lot of extensions, you’re dealing with a very large amount of hair that has no layers, no texture, and no movement. So when you want to blend extensions or a hairpiece on a client’s head, ordinarily it would take a pair of cutting shears, maybe a razor, a pair of thinning shears, and a pair of texturizing shears. You may use those tools intermittently, going from one to the other, to blend that client’s hair. Now, with the Vern cutting system, you can create a custom blade combination based on the texture of the client’s hair and it’s as simple 1, 2, 3. Your haircut is finished and it blends perfectly. NHJ: In our last issue, we talked with David Trocker, the new CMO at HairUWear who outlined some ambitious plans for 2012. Does your work bring you into contact with David and Michael Napolitano. MP: Michael was actually one of my clients a long time ago in Boca Raton, well before I even got involved with Great Lengths. More recently, Michael and his wife, Denise were with us at the Stylist Choice Awards. They got chosen as the Best Hair Extension Company for the fourth year in a row. NHJ
Straight Talk About Straight Hair Good, but not good enough - Women everywhere have long searched for the secret to long, silky looking hair. With recent advances in technology, it started to look like we had finally found the answer to sleek Hollywood hair with blowout and Keratin treatments. But this was not to be. Although these innovative treatments showed good results and left many clients feeling red-carpet ready, clinical studies led the FDA to intervene and warn customers about possible side effects (Brazilian Blowout is an adulterated cosmetic because it bears or contains a deleterious substance that may render it injurious to users under the conditions of use prescribed in your labeling. Specifically, based on FDA sample analysis, Brazilian Blowout contains methylene glycol, the liquid form of formaldehyde, which, under the conditions of use prescribed in the labeling, releases formaldehyde when hair treated with the product is heated with a blow dryer and then with a hot flat iron. Methylene glycol is a deleterious substance, which at the levels present in this product, may harm users under the conditions of use prescribed in the labeling thereof. FDA Warning Letter, Aug 22, 2011. Time to start over - The blowout technique promised to repair dry, split and damaged ends by filling in the gaps with Keratin, a protein naturally found in healthy hair. To do this however, the Keratin must be mixed with the active bonding agent, formaldehyde, and then sealed with a hot straightening tool. And, as the FDA was quick to point out, that’s where the problems start. Simply put, formaldehyde is not good for you. The following warning appears on the National Cancer Institute website, Formaldehyde has been classified as a known human carcinogen (cancer-causing substance) by the International Agency for Research on Cancer and as a probable human carcinogen by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. So once again clients found themselves facing the daunting task of looking elsewhere for safer straightening options. Nature knows best - As in so many other situations, it turned out that the answer lay in an all-natural system, formulated with 100% non-toxic ingredients and no sulfates, parabens, dyes, hyrdofluorocarbons, propanes, petrolatums, denatured alcohols, or butanes. The man behind it? David Paris. Founded by Paris in 2005, COLURE True Color Care is an officially certified organic line of products featuring the SmoothStraight System, designed for temporary hair straightening while extending the life of a blowout or Keratin treatment. It comprises a Shampoo, Conditioner and Elixir and claims to keep the user’s hair smooth and straight for as long as she continues to use the system. The SmoothStraight System is the first product that can be applied in the same salon visit as color, getting rid of any buildup with their soluble compounds. COLURE products also offer protection from styling, UV rays and free radicals that can damage hair during the blowout process. A parting word - Do your homework. Read labels carefully... and if you can’t pronounce it easily, it’s probably not good for you. NHJ
19 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
New Image Annual Conference NIU LIVE 2011 October 22 – October 24, 2011 By Elvira Amankwa tower overlooking Biscayne Bay presented a striking façade of glass and steel, decidedly modern and beautifully designed to create a unique sensory experience. Attendees mainly came from the USA and Canada, but New Image also welcomed clients from Europe and Latin America and even countries as far away as New Zealand and South Africa. They all came together on Saturday evening for a welcome cocktail reception on the hotel’s 25th floor, overlooking Biscayne Bay with breathtaking views of the glittering city.
NIU LIVE 2011 officially concluded on Monday with a final round of presentations, followed by a cordial farewell. Business cards were exchanged, hands were shaken, hugs were given – the hair loss industry had convened, shared and learned from each other. Now it was
Ask The Experts: Q & A Industry Leader Panel – Robert Voza, Dr. David Kingsley, Nick Conforti, Pat Julkowski, Ricky Knowles, Kristen Knowles, Randy Clark, Orsel C.M. Reenis & Dana Krangel.
Miami, FL. 10/11 - New Image Labs Corporation has long positioned itself as a leader in the hair replacement industry. For over 40 years, clients have been looking to New Image for top quality hair and service and for the latest in technology and innovation – not only with regards to hair systems and accessories, but also professional development and education.
time to take the motivation and empowerment, the skills and the knowledge back home to their studios, apply it and be the best they can be.
At NIU LIVE 2011, New Image raised the bar with a new conference concept. Under the premise of “Less Cocktail Hour – New Image Labs President, Tony Sciara & Finn Waldorf
On Tuesday, October 25, a dedicated group of students stayed on to participate in a Biolon Certification Class taught by industry veteran Ricky Knowles. Attendees
The next morning, the group embarked on an educational journey. The modern conference rooms with ergonomic chairs and trek tables were conducive to learning as sixteen different topics were discussed in platform presentations and hands-on demonstrations. Over two days, thirty-four presentations by seasoned industry veterans were delivered to a captivated audience.
Secrets to Perfect Perm & Coloring by Robert Voza
Fluff, More Focus”, the company rolled out this new type of conference as a cohesive effort, starting with the choice of the host hotel to creating a meaningful program, from selecting the right speakers to reducing carbon imprint with less paper consumption through handouts. Only 15 minutes from Miami International Airport, the Conrad Hotel was the perfect host hotel with its subtle, yet refined business atmosphere, a true sanctuary in the heart of the vibrant city of Miami. The stunning 36-story
Biolon Certification Class by Ricky Knowles
Raising the Bar: Elevating your Credentials by Dr. David Kingsley
The Latest in Mold Making Technology: Introducing Techform® Standard by Rancy Clark
Late-breaking instruction on how to choose, cut, perm, and color hair systems were given. New techniques on how to bond and blend were also presented and as one conference guest put it “I have been in this business for many years, but every time I come here, I refresh my knowledge. Sometimes we forget and need to be reminded.” Program highlights included a presentation by Dr. David Kingsley, World Trichologist Society, about elevating professional credentials, and a lively panel discussion about the future direction of the industry. Guests enjoyed networking opportunities as they connected over lunch and dinner at an array of exciting restaurants and bars, all within walking distance. Adventurous guests took advantage of private excursions to South Beach, Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne to sample Miami’s exuberant nightlife.
walked away with new knowledge and a certificate documenting their proficiency with this new fiber. Tony Sciara, President of New Image Labs Corporation states, “The new concept of “less fluff, more focus” was readily embraced by conference attendees and presenters. It is a concept which is sure to be refined by New Image in the months to come and revisited as the company gears up for NIU LIVE 2012”. NHJ
The Art of Hair Extensions: Featuring Secret Strands® Plus by Melinda Dominguez
20 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
ASK JODI: SAY THIS, NOT THAT Losing your hair is a devastating journey for women. In a survey, over 90% of women undergoing chemotherapy were more affected by the fact that they were going to lose their hair, than they were about focusing on getting well. How you listen and respond to a woman with hairloss is a delicate and critical skill that is difficult to acquire unless you live with the problem. SAY THIS, NOT THAT is geared toward hairloss professionals like you to help give insight into the minds of women losing their hair. It is written by Jodi P., a woman who lost all her own hair and learned to survive and accept the experience. It is her hope that her insights will help you understand and support clients who are struggling with the same life-changing challenges. You are an integral part of the journey that many brave clients are blindly navigating. You can be the light in their darkness... or be the dark spot that they will never forget. My goal is to help you have a positive impact on the lives that you touch. SAY THIS: You are a professional who will assist the client with her needs. Please don’t say that you are going to be her “ new friend”. What a client relies on is the fact that you know your business. She is there to let you offer your services to her. You don’t have to be her therapist either. When people are nerv-
ous they tend to talk more. It is advantageous for both parties involved, to keep things focused on the task at hand. This will provide a sense of confidence and comfort for your clients. Keep focused and stay on track. Use a script if you need to. SAY THIS: You have many different solutions that you would like to present to help meet your client’s needs. Please don’t say that you have a lot of wigs or hairpieces for them to try on. Use the word hair instead of wig. Hair implies that they are going to have that sense of ” normalcy” once again. The word “wig” can make people feel ashamed and more aware of their hair loss issue. SAY THIS: You are going to try to make their hair feel as comfortable as possible. Share your empathy by letting them know that it can be a difficult adjustment getting used to wearing ‘new hair’, but you will do what you can to provide them with comfortable solutions. (for example, using HEADLINE IT! disposable liners to stop the pokey little hairs from irritating the scalp.) Don’t ask if it feels comfortable wearing the item, instead be more specific. Ask if it is loose enough or tight enough. Enquire if there are any spots that irritate their scalp? Always remain professional and let your expertise make your clients feel reassured and confident that you can assist their needs. Remember, the more in control you are, the more comfortable your clients will feel. You are helping your clients to control their wellness and not let their illness control them. Being bald is an adventure. I wrote a book about living without hair. It is called ‘Bald Is Beautiful, My Journey To Becoming.’ In it I describe how women feel on their hairloss jour-
neys. I wish this could be a textbook for all the owners and employees in the hair industry. Hair is perceived as a sign of youth and beauty. That’s what you are selling in the hair replacement business. People come to you to “fit in” with society, rather than walk around coif-less. I have conflicting emotions about this, but the truth is that hair matters and affects how people look at us, how they treat us as human beings, and how society accepts ‘who’ we are. If you help your clients see that they are beautiful on the inside, they will have a better chance of liking the hair alternatives you are going to be providing to them. Their healing starts from the inside out. About the author: Jodi Pliszka, M.S. is a Clinical Therapist, award winning author, inventor, motivational speaker, and the world's leading SOLUTIONOLOGISTTM(a person who teaches others how to take challenges and turn them into opportunities). Jodi obtained her Master's Degree in New York at West Point (LIU) and worked for two years on her PhD at Ferkauf School of Medicine. She is an advocate and volunteer for the cancer society and many alopecia support groups. Jodi is the President/Inventor of HEADLINE IT! (R) At the age of thirteen, Jodi was stricken with a rare disorder that affects less than 200,000 people in US, Alopecia Universalis, rendering her totally hairless. Jodi has been featured on Lifetime TV's Health Corner, ABC'S American Inventor TV SHOW as a top finalist, CBS, ABC, NBC news, FOX SPORTS, Entrepneneur, Forbes, M Magazine and other publications internaionally. For more information about Jodi or to enquire about her books and products, please go to www.HeadlineItstore.com.
Follow the Money! Anti-aging is where the dollars are. Baby boomers who refuse to grow old are spending record sums to maintain their youthful looks and vitality. Great hair needs great skin and The National hair Society has developed a special program that will place a skin rejuvenation device in qualifying salons and clinics free of charge. Your clients will be delighted results are visible after one session and the benefits accumulate with repeated treatments.
Here’s what you get: - Free state-of-the-art microcurrent skin rejuvenation device. - Free advertising material.
Here’s what you need to qualify: - Private room or area for skin therapy. - Strong female clientele. - Licensed technician or cosmetologist. - Technical training and accreditation.
Here’s how you’ll benefit: - No out of pocket. - Substantial new income. - Attract new clients for hair and skin. - Reward and retain current clients.
For more information info@nationalhairjournal.com, visit www.nationalhairsociety.org or call
619-928-9750
21 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
Why I’m Upbeat (cont. from pg.10)
THE NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL
I work ridiculous hours here and I still love coming in every day. There’s an old phrase in sales that the customer can ‘see you smiling through the phone.’ They know when they’re your number one priority. That’s what I want to be remembered for... and that’s what I want On Rite to be remembered for too!: Like everyone else. Your customers are being bombarded with solicitations from manufacturers offering cheaper hair. CP: With a website and an e-mail blast anyone can create any impression they wish. However, the real question is can they live up to it? Since our inception in 1975 (36 years ago) it has always been On Rite’s philosophy to deliver the best possible product at the best possible price, with the best possible service... all guaranteed! The retail establishment has come to expect that from On Rite, and it is our responsibility to live up to those high standards. So now the question is, do we become the cheapest supplier, cancel quality and reliable service, and have no product guarantee? We all know the correct answer; customer service, quality, and a guarantee are all very important in today’s market. NHJ: We frequently hear managers say, “I’m not able to afford television advertising anymore. I don’t understand the Internet. The kids don’t want to come into this business. What am I doing wrong?” How do you answer them? CP: I’d tell them, you’re not doing anything wrong. This is typical of a lot of businesses. That’s why you need to get involved with a company that provides marketing support. We’ll take your hand and show you that there are productive ways to do advertising that fits your budget. There are ways to get into radio and print advertising without breaking the bank. We’re working to become a marketing machine. We’re trying to build links so customers can share our web content. There’s a lot going on behind the scenes. Again, I’ve only been here a short period of time so a lot of this is still on the books. But if a customer has a need, we’ll try to fix it. NHJ: Peering over the horizon together, are there any new products people should be getting excited about? CP: Well there’s one thing you didn’t touch on which is our hair extension line, called “Ultratress.” As I said earlier, no 50-year-old woman is going to turn back the clock and say, “Oh, it’s okay. I’ll start looking 50.” Extensions are here to stay. Quality hair extensions are what we are all about. There are a lot of people who are looking for a higher quality alternative. Extensions are also an alternative for the woman with thinning hair. Again, customer service will lead the way because a lot of salon owners now realize they’re missing out on a growth market and want help getting started. We’re that resource. Just watch us. Between Gemtress and Ultratress there’s going to be a lot of growth here. NHJ: One final question, for readers of the National Hair Journal who don’t know you yet, what would you like to tell them? CP: It’s simple. I hope to follow in the footsteps of what’s made this company great, which is quality, consistency, and customer service. I do not want to change it. You don’t fix what ain’t broke. There are areas here that I would like to focus on and we are going after them. The thing people need to know about me is I came from a fashion background in New York. I worked with Tressallure/General Wig in the Aderans Group for over five years so I also know alternative hair. Yes it was the women’s market and I am really a fledgling guy in the men’s area, but men are as fashion conscious these days as women are. Men care about their looks. Men spend an awful lot more time in front of the mirror than they used to. Men care about how they dress, how they look. What’s the old phrase: Youth belongs to the young? Well who wants to get old? On a personal level, I’m a runner. I used to run four miles a day. I’m down to three. If that makes me part of the graying of America, I apologize. I am trying to bring myself back. I enjoy running. I enjoy bicycling. I work out every day. I refuse to accept the idea of getting old. Anyone who knows me knows that I joke about it all the time, but gosh darn it, they’re going to have to drag me away kicking and screaming because I won’t go. NHJ: How would you like to be seen by your customers one year from now? CP: I’ve been at On Rite almost six months and I can honestly say I am excited about being here. I am loving it every day. I work ridiculous hours here and I still love coming in every day. There’s an old phrase in sales that the customer can ‘see you smiling through the phone.’ They know when they’re your number one priority. That’s what I want to be remembered for... and that’s what I NHJ want On Rite to be remembered for too!
The National Hair Journal was founded in 1997 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.
Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com
Creative Director Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com
Legal Advisor Joel Morgenthau
Technical Advisors Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin Maryla Fraser
Contributing Correspondents James Toscano Bobbi Russell Mark Deo Toni Love Steven Dimanni, Editor Emeritus Marilyn Wayne
European Director Hans Diks
Editorial Policy
LASER UPDATE Good News For Hair Loss Hair loss services are now becoming mainstream! Recent studies show that receiving services for hair loss and using specialized hair loss products has become an accepted part of both men’s and women’s beauty care routines. According to the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS), the number of hair restoration procedures increased 47.9% worldwide from 2008 to 2010. Men remain the majority of hair restoration patients at 85.9%, yet women are an increasingly growing market segment at 14.1%, a 24% increase since 2004. This strong growth in the hair restoration market reflects the new attitude of men and women who feel that hair loss is now an issue they can take action to improve. Hair loss professionals can now utilize this new market trend to promote their own laser hair therapy offerings. ISHRS studies also show that men and women are now more willing to admit having had hair restoration services. When asked if patients were more likely to discuss their hair loss procedures with others, 56.4% of ISHRS members relayed that their patients would be more likely, compared to 2008. Whereas in years past clients might have been more sensitive to their hair loss issues, now they are more open to receiving treatments as more options for hair loss become available. Be sure to share these types of statistics with your clients to motivate them towards taking action against their own hair loss. Market Your Laser Treatment Services Through Education The best approach to market your low-level laser therapy services is through a proactive educational program. Create an education-based marketing strategy to share hair loss basics and solutions. Stay ahead of the learning curve by training your staff to ensure your clients will have the facts with personalized solutions when they ask questions. Partner with successful hair loss product manufacturers that will help train you to become a hair loss expert and share that expertise with your clientele. Consulting presentations, marketing devices and instructional videos should cover the basics of hair loss, including how your clinic laser works to successfully regrow hair. Your educational approach for your own clientele should not go into too much of the science, yet should show clients how your laser services safely
and effectively stimulate hair growth. Your educational materials should include clinical study results of low level lasers to share with clients. Low-level laser therapy results have been accepted by the U.S. FDA and Health Canada, as well as in other countries. The FDA grants clearances for medical devices, similar to, but slightly different than approvals on drugs. In two FDA-accepted studies, hair loss lasers showed re-growth in men and women with over 93% to 100% success. Details of these studies have appeared in previous issues of the National Hair Journal. If you choose to share this data with clients and you don’t own the FDAcleared devices, be careful that you do not claim your device performs this way or infringe on any company’s study results. Always provide your clients with comprehensive educational brochures, point-of-purchase merchandising materials and website material that detail the benefits of low level laser therapy and ensure that it is easy to understand. Share client testimonials and success stories and videos to help motivate your clients. Emphasize how they may see some results in 2 to 3 months while the best results will happen in a 2 to 24 month time period, encouraging clients to commit to a long term program. If your clients do not keep using their hair growth products regularly, they will lose their new re-growth and become discouraged. If you carry professional hair loss products or hair care maintenance systems, also emphasize how they work together synergistically for even better results! Keep in touch with your hair loss clientele through regular communications. Collect your clients’ email addresses and regularly send them e-newsletters, coupon offerings or brief email news blasts. Create a presence on social media websites, such as Facebook, to connect with your clients or Twitter to send brief tweets on your laser hair therapy updates. Ensure they keep up their hair loss programs with membership incentives, gift with purchase incentives and club discounts. Your product manufacturer should also help train you to educate your clients, market your laser hair loss services and build your clientele, for years of successful growth! Source: Hair Loss Control Clinic
FACTOID: Aside from being clinically proven to stimulate hair growth, laser therapy is also proven to be completely safe, gentle and natural in over 3,500 studies.
The National Hair Journal is 100% independent and is not beholden to, or influenced by, any individual investor, manufacturer or other commercial interest. The Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material but it will give credit to contributors. Wherever possible, we encourage writers not to include company or brand names unless they are necessary for a more complete understanding of the article. The National Hair Journal works hard to ensure that all published material is objective, fair and courteous. It reserves the right to edit material it deems to be overly commercial or that unnecessarily denigrates a competitor. The National Hair Journal has a history of profiling prominent personalities in the hair-management industry. These interviews are based upon the prominence of the candidate and requests by Journal readers. Interviewees do not pay to be profiled and there is no commercial relationship between interviewees and their advertising. ADVERTISING
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The views expressed in The National Hair Journal are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The National Hair Journal, its editors or staff. The Journal’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peerreviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The National Hair Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied, with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of The National Hair Journal a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the advertised product or service or any of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The National Hair Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of The National Hair Journal and may be edited for clarity, presentation and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The National Hair Journal, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, website and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The National Hair Journal Media Kit. COPYRIGHT
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22 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
Hair Society News www.nationalhairsociety.org
Six Strategies for Getting the Most Out of Facebook Lisa Zimmerman, Board Director, The National Hair Society & Marketing Advisor There’s no dispute that social media sites, such as, Facebook have become a marketing force. However, the hair restoration industry is faced with a unique dilemma: How do you market services that are essentially private and confidential on social platforms? As we all know, not everyone who chooses hair restoration wants it publicly known. Not everyone will click the “like” button on your page, because it is displayed on that person’s Facebook page for friends to see. Here at National Hair Centers, we’ve created five strategies to optimize our Facebook page. 1. Understand there are two “distinct” types of Facebook Users At NHC, we’ve identif ied two kinds of prospective clients using Facebook. These two categories are what we call, “Anonymous Users” and “Public Users”. As the name implies, Anonymous Users are clients and prospective clients who wish their identities to remain unknown. And, although they won’t click “like” your page, don’t think they aren’t checking it out. They will visit your page. They crave relevant information and will utilize Facebook to learn more about you and to “listen in” to the conversation. We have converted many of these users into clients. The second type of Facebook users will engage. “Public Users” will click “like”. These users will post comments on your wall. Central to your Facebook page is the “wall”. When members post to your wall it shows up in friends’ news feeds, allowing you to reach a wider audience. To attract “Public Users” to your page, promote Facebook to your loyal client base. You might be surprised to see which clients will become your biggest advocates! 2. Market to both groups The good news is that you can market to both groups exactly the same way. Promote your Facebook page in all the advertising and marketing you do. That means both traditional and digital advertising. Have clickable links on e-mail blasts and your own website. Use the Facebook icon on broadcast, print ads, newsletters, and mailers, even your new client packages. Virtually every marketing piece can be a vehicle for encouraging your Facebook visits. 3. Content is king! Keep your social media fresh and engaging. While it’s important to post regularly, it’s also important to make sure that the posts are relevant and interesting. Avoid the temptation to post extraneous or strictly promotional content. A rule of thumb is 95 percent informational and 5 percent promotional. Remember, people use Facebook for social interaction, make your page an inviting and interesting place to visit. Central to your Facebook page is the “wall”, where members can post comments and join the conversation. When members post something it shows up in their friends news feeds, allowing you to have a much wider audience. Regularly update your wall with posts about new services, hair news about celebrities, hairstyle trends, and stylist videos. Another important thing is to post questions that people can respond to. 4. Consider advertising on Facebook At NHC, we have had a good response to our Facebook ads. These paid ads run along the margin of the screen. You can use the ads to promote your brand, services and Facebook page. Advertising on Facebook is targeted, simple, and affordable relative to other media. 5. Roll with the changes The web changes with the speed of light. As I was writing this, Facebook launched a makeover. Although, controversial now, I am sure over time the changes being made by Facebook will prove beneficial to marketers. However, changes continually require a review in strategy. Also new entries into the social media landscape such as Google+ will impact Facebook. Bottom line: What works today, may not work tomorrow. Staying on top of Facebook requires due diligence.
6. Hire a professional if necessary While not difficult in itself, Facebook management requires a considerable amount of time and energy regularly applied. It can be time consuming! Consider hiring at least a person or firm specializing in social Lisa Zimmerman media to handle it for you. Board Director, NHS Just be sure they have access to positive things happening in your company in order to post interesting content. It won’t work as well if your social media person is in a different state merely posting generic hair stories. We have found Facebook to be a great source for new leads. Just remember, you have two distinct groups, Anonymous and Public. And, be sure you keep your content fresh and releNHJ vant for both!
Razor’s Edge Wins Again Razor’s Edge was one of only three companies officially recognized by the Blair County Chamber of Commerce for Excellence in Small Business at their Business Hall of Fame & General Business Awards 2011.
Owner, Joseph DeGennaro began his career in the barbering profession at the age of 15 as an apprentice barber in Altoona, Pa. He served 3 years in this capacity and passed his state boards the same year he graduated from high school in 1961. At the age of 18, he was the youngest barber in PA. After purchasing his first two-chair salon where he was employed in 1968, the name “Razors Edge” was born. Shortly after, Mr. DeGennaro moved his business to Greenwood. Before long, he outgrew this facility and in 1975, moved to his present location at 1531 East Pleasant Valley Boulevard. In 1981, the Greenwood location was widely expanded and remolded. To satisfy his clients from the southern end of Blair County, Mr. DeGennaro opened a second Razor’s Edge in Hollidaysburg in 1984. In 1988 he purchased a home on 6 N. Juniata St. and converted this 100year home into a modern upscale salon. The Razor’s Edge was the first salon to introduce many cutting edge services to Blair County. The first was computer imaging, a process where you could see your new hair style before it was actually cut; the second, a non-surgical hair grafting technique for men and women with thinning hair; and finally spray tanning, a safe alternative to sun beds. As part of his desire to give back to the community, the Razor’s Edge raised thousands of dollars for the Blair County Easter Seals Society in the ”Back to Schools Cut-a-thons” project and various hair cutting carnivals and promotions. In 1997, the Razor’s Edge was the first salon to be voted #1 in Blair County by the Altoona Mirror’s “Peoples Choice Awards.” October 2009 marked the opening of the 3rd Razor’s Edge location at the Graystone Villa on Flamingo Dr. in Altoona which is a full service salon open to the public. In 2009 Mr. DeGennaro was awarded” Small Businessman of The Year” by the Chamber Of Commerce. Looking to the future, his sons Joe Jr. and Michael will have the distinction of carrying the tradition of giving superior service to their loyal customers in the service area. Mr. DeGennaro thanks his dedicated staff and his customers for the success of the Razor’s Edge, and to the Blair County Chamber Of Commerce for honoring him with their “Excellence in Small Business” award. The Razors Edge is a recognized leader in men’s, women’s and children’s hair styling and is the most modern full-service salon in the area. We are proud to have Joe and his team as members of The National Society of Hair & Skin Rejuvenation.
23 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011
24 The National Hair Journal Winter 2011