TH E G LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E
FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S
ISSUE FIVE SUMMER 2018 £5 WHERE SOLD
A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S
YOU R LO N DO N ST YLE GU I D E
“Let the beauty of what you love be what you do” – Rumi
C U LT U R E
Essential events FAS H I O N
Summer style FRAGRANCE
The latest scents ARTS
The Royal Academy's 250th birthday M E M B E R S' C L U B S
White City House T R AV E L
Eco luxe getaways FOOD
Al fresco dining
The
ISSUE FIVE
BEAUTY ISSUE
S U M M E R 2 01 8
The Summer’s latest looks, products & treatments
PLUS: Sophia Webster on FASHION, Tom Dixon on DESIGN, Lady Carole Bamford on FOOD, Elizabeth Hurley on STYLE, Alessandra Steinherr on BEAUTY, Lisa Eldridge’s LONDON COVER_v3.indd 3
31/07/2018 18:20
©2018 Clinique Laboratories, LLC
New.
CLINIQUE.indd 2
31/07/2018 15:36
Dramatically Different™ Hydrating Jelly Anti-Pollution
Pure genius. 24-hour hydration repair + pollution protection. Locks in the good, like moisture, and filters out the bad, thanks to Clean Shield Technology.™ Skin is healthy, stronger with a clean glow. No parabens. No phthalates. No fragrance. Just happy skin. clinique.co.uk
CLINIQUE.indd 3
31/07/2018 15:36
RENEWED RENEWED BYBY THE THE SEA SEA A Daily A Daily Transformation Transformation The iconic The iconic CrèmeCrème de la Mer de la renews Mer renews and restores, and restores, immersing immersing your your skin inskin moisture in moisture and the and renewing the renewing energies energies of ourof Miracle our Miracle Broth™. Broth™. Glowing Glowing with hydrated with hydrated radiance. radiance. #MyLaMerStory #MyLaMerStory
cremedelamer.co.uk cremedelamer.co.uk
EMILIOPUCCI.COM
EMILIOPUCCI.COM EMILIO PUCCI SP.indd 1
01/08/2018 19:52
CONTENTS I
S
S U
E
F
I
V
E
The Beauty Issue
Arts & Culture 13 AGENDA
Dates for your diary this season
22 CROWNING GLORY
The Royal Academy celebrates it 250th birthday with newly renovated galleries
26 GO WEST
Spotlight on private members’ club White City House and its museum level art
Style
32 FASHION NOTES
The designers and trends on our radar
34 STILETTOS & STORYBOOKS
Sophia Webster shows us her new store on Sloane Avenue
38 SUNSHINE SEASON
Our holiday wardrobe edit
42 ELIZABETH HURLEY
The actress and swimwear designer shares her holiday essentials and packing tips
45 EMERALD CITY
Be seen in green this season
46 WOMAN’S HOUR
The latest trends from Baselworld and why brands are taking womens timepieces seriously
Beauty & Wellness 52 BEAUTY NOTES
The latest news and products
54 GET THE GLOW
Illuminating beauty essentials
56 ABOUT FACE
Make-up artist Nikki Wolff creates eight key summer beauty looks
66 SUMMER SAVIOURS
The capitals best treatments
68 THE NEW WAVE
London’s multi-tasking super salons
74 MY BEAUTY EDIT
Alessandra Steinherr shares her favourite products and treatments
78 SCENTS OF STYLE
Update your scent wardrobe with the latest releases
83 WELLNESS NOTES
The latest news and openings
CONTENTS.indd 5
08/08/2018 15:20
78
The YOUR LONDON STYLE GUIDE 34
Food & Drink 86 TASTING NOTES
116
Where to eat and what to drink
88 PLAN IT ORGANIC
Lady Bamford releases her debut cookbook and tells us what’s next for Daylesford Farm
92 RESTAURANT REVIEWS
Food writer Hilary Armstrong finds the best tables in the city
Travel
98 TRAVEL NOTES
Global destinations
100 STYLE & SUSTAINABILITY
Leave the guilt at home with Juliet Kinsman’s indulgent escapes with a conscience
108 NOTES ON A SCANDAL
We visit the decadent Cliveden House
Home & Interiors 112 DESIGN NOTES
Inspirations from the world of interiors
114 FLORAL SYMPHONY
Bringing floral and botanical into the home
116 DIXON’S DYNASTY
26 88 108 42
Tom Dixon shows us around his new headquarters in Kings Cross
Last Word
120 MY GLOSSARY
Lisa Eldridge’s little black book
100
6
CONTENTS.indd 6
08/08/2018 15:22
EMILIOPUCCI.COM
EMILIOPUCCI.COM EMILIO PUCCI SP.indd 2
01/08/2018 19:52
10
DAKS_SS18_The_Glossary_220x285mm_100418_V1.indd 1
O L D
B O N D
S T R E E T
LO N D O N
DA KS .CO M
10/04/2018 10:57
GLOSSARY WELCO M E
TO
THE
L
ONDON TRULY TRANSFORMS DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS. The warm weather and the city invite you outside to laze around in its magnificent parks, to dine al fresco in fabulous restaurants or to enjoy some culture – and a spot of shade – at one of the many major museum exhibitions. Happily, it’s a languorous way of life we can fully revel in, as the heat wave looks set to continue well into autumn. This issue, we’re focusing on beauty, beginning with make-up artist of the moment, Nikki Wolff, who we invited to create eight gorgeous looks that won’t wilt in the heat (p56). We also bring you the lowdown on the rise of the super salon, beauty influencer and creator of #SundayFacial, Alessandra Steinherr, reveals her all-time favourite products (p74), while leading make-up artist and YouTube sensation Lisa Eldridge opens up her little black book to the capital (p120). Elsewhere, our restaurant columnist Hilary Armstrong reviews the best garden dining spots (p92), we’ve got the inside track on the Royal Academy’s redevelopment and how Grayson Perry is breathing new life into its 250th Summer Exhibition (p22), and we take a trip down memory lane at Soho House’s hot new haunt, White City House at the BBC’s old Television Centre – and yes, its roof-top pool is the place to be seen this summer (p26). Keeping track of all that’s new, we meet design maverick Tom Dixon at his multifunctional HQ in Kings Cross for a first look at the A/W collection (p116), chat to shoe designer extraordinaire Sophia Webster as she opens a second London store (p34), and visit Daylesford Farm to meet the pioneering Lady Carole Bamford in time for the release of her debut cookbook (p88). For anyone venturing further afield, actress and swimwear designer Elizabeth Hurley reveals her summer beach style and packing tips (p42), while eco travel expert Juliet Kinsman rounds up the luxe hotels and resorts dedicated to reducing their impact on the environment (p100).
Edito
We hope you enjoy the long hot summer.
SAN MIGUEL £75, libertylondon.com
PREEN £595, preenbythorntonbregazzi.com
BORGO DE NOR £695, harrods.com
THE GLOSSARY EDITORIAL & STYLE DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle CONTRIBUTING FOOD & DRINK EDITOR: Rachel Walker CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong CONTRIBUTING TRAVEL EDITOR: Lizzie Pook
picks
ILLESTEVA £205, net-a-porter.com
r ’s
M a ke a s t a t em en t w it h Y ELLOW t h is se a son
FERN FANS £80, fernfans.com ATTICO £1,652, matchesfashion.com
CONTRIBUTORS: Alessandra Steinherr, Arved Colvin-Smith, Amy Bradford, Anna Brech, Avril Groom, Bethan Ryder, Grace Cook, Holly Black, Nikki Wolff, Rachel Ward, Rebecca Fearn FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton editorial@theglossarymagazine.com | advertising@theglossarymagazine.com accounts@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 85 Great Portland Street, First Floor, London, W1W 7LT © 2018 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
PACIOTTI BY MIDNIGHT £1,045, matchesfashion.com CIRE TRUDON £70, trudon.com
9
CONTRIBUTORS Summer 2018
NIKKI WOLFF Make-up artist of the moment, ‘queen of glow’ and global ambassador for Becca Cosmetics, London-based Nikki created the key looks for our front cover and beauty shoot (page 64). Favourite spa in the capital – The Corinthia hotel’s ESPA Life is where I go to escape it all. A deep-tissue massage is my much-needed treat. Summer fashion must-have – Some cat’s-eye sunglasses by Louis Vuitton are at the top of my list. This holiday I’ll be reading – The Book Thief by Marcus Zusak. It’s beautifully told in colour and is so visually descriptive, poignant and moving.
JULIET KINSMAN
BETHAN RYDER
Founding editor of Mr & Mrs Smith and the woman behind Bouteco – a social enterprise dedicated to helping make hospitality a force for good – Juliet rounds up some of the globe’s most sustainable yet stylish hotels and resorts (page 100).
Formerly deputy editor of Telegraph Luxury, Bethan is now digital editor at Wallpaper*. This issue she explores the art inside White City House (page 26) and interviews Tom Dixon about his illustrious career (page 116).
Favourite hotel in the capital – Kettner’s Townhouse in Soho: a piano bar, classic British restaurant and granny-chic bedrooms in the city’s most vibrant neighbourhood. Summer fashion must-have – The 12-piece collection of tailored silk pieces by designer Katrina Phillips on Portobello Road is perfect for holidays. This holiday I’ll be reading – Compassion Inc. by Gaurav Sinha.
Favourite al fresco bar in the capital – The fabulous rooftop at White City House. You’ll find me drinking a fruit daiquiri on a sun lounger. My summer getaway – near Cognac in France, where I will be checking out Tony Conigliaro’s bar, Luciole. This holiday I’ll be reading – To Kill a Mockingbird by Harper Lee with my 11-yearold daughter. She has a list of classics for summer, and we like to read books in tandem.
10
Contribs Aug18 [JR SUBBED].indd 10
ALESSANDRA STEINHERR With more than 18 years’ experience on women’s glossy magazines, awardwinning beauty director and social-media influencer Alessandra certainly knows her way around the beauty industry. She gives us the lowdown on her skincare routine and favourite products (page 74). Favourite spa in the capital – The Ned’s Club Spa has a brilliant menu of treatments. I recommend the iS Clinical Fire and Ice facial – you literally walk out with new skin. Summer fashion must-have – I’m lusting after some super-chic Buckled Leather Slide flat sandals by BOYY. This holiday I’ll be reading – I love spy thrillers, and I just bought The Man Between by Charles Cumming.
AVRIL GROOM Avril writes about luxury goods for the Financial Times’ How to Spend It and The Telegraph. This issue she casts a spotlight on the emerging trends at Baselworld (page 48) and explores how the major watch brands are focusing on women. Favourite al fresco bar – The lushly floral roof terrace at the Ham Yard Hotel. Always with a glass of chilled Ruinart champagne in hand. My summer getaway – Relaxing, swimming and doing some writing in the Provençal hills. This holiday I’ll be reading – The Silk Roads by Peter Frankopan. The footnotes are fascinating in themselves.
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM
06/08/2018 10:28
ARGENT.indd 1
07/04/2018 11:23
Untitled-1 1
13/07/2018 11:53
ARTS & CULTURE
The Future Starts Here V&A
UNTIL 4 NOVEMBER
A model of a pedestrian bridge, crowd-funded by citizens of Rotterdam, hovers like a spacecraft in the V&A’s new show, propelling us into the world of tomorrow. This fascinating exhibition spotlights 112 brilliant inventions that are shaping the future in ways we can’t yet fully conceive. From cuddly robot seals to phone-charging shirts, prepare to be wowed and unnerved in equal measure by the power of ingenuity. vam.ac.uk
AGENDA OPENER RW.indd 15
04/08/2018 11:35
Agenda
WHAT'S ON & WHERE
The re-opening of Temperate House
ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS
The world’s largest Victorian greenhouse reopens to much fanfare this summer, following a five-year restoration project. Sunlight floods the cathedral-like space at Temperate House, hailed by Sir David Attenborough as “breathtakingly beautiful”. Beyond the romantic architecture lies a poignant conservation message, with the greenhouse containing 10,000 of the world’s most endangered plants. kew.org
Exhibition
AFTERMATH: Art in the Wake of World War One TAT E B R I TA I N This moving centenary exhibition explores the physical and psychological scars of World War One, as depicted by emerging European artists of that time. Works by Hannah Höch, George Grosz, Otto Dix and more form a vivid portfolio that is alive with the turbulent emotion of the post-Armistice era.
Until 23 September; tate.org.uk
14
AGENDA.indd 14
The BP Portrait Award NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY UNTIL 23 SEPTEMBER Unlock a treasure trove of glossy realism as the National Portrait Gallery returns with its ode to contemporary portraiture. This annual competition is open to everyone from heavyweight names to students, with abstract motifs and textures adding a playful twist to more conventional offerings. Expect the unexpected in a series of captivating portraits that look to expose the core of the human spirit. npg.org.uk
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
05/08/2018 16:27
A R T S & C U LT U R E
LONDON NIGHTS MUSEUM OF LONDON UNTIL 11 NOVEMBER
The capital takes on a different, more brooding character by night: something that is captured to perfection by this visceral show. Delve deep into the beating heart of nocturnal London with evocative portraiture, documentary, conceptual photography and film stretching from the end of the 19th century to present day, including works by greats such as Bill Brandt and Tish Murtha.
museumoflondon.org.uk
CHRISTO AND JEANNE-CLAUDE: BARRELS AND THE MASTABA 1958–2018 SERPENTINE GALLERIES UNTIL 9 SEPTEMBER
This summer, a floating, pyramid-like structure made from 7,506 barrels has arrived on Serpentine lake in Hyde Park. ‘The Mastaba’ is the work of Christo, one half of celebrated sculpting duo, Christo and Jeanne-Claude. To mark the occasion, the Serpentine Galleries dissect the couple’s most ambitious barrel projects from around the world.
serpentinegalleries.org
THEATRE
THE HUMANS HAMPSTEAD THEATRE 30 AUGUST– 13 OCTOBER Fresh from a smash-hit run on Broadway, The Humans arrives in London to the exultant critical acclaim. Playwrite Stephen Karam’s deft handling of a Thanksgiving family reunion is elevated by a Tony Award-winning cast, for a psychological drama that’s cut through with grit and humour. hampsteadtheatre.com
IMPERIUM
GIELGUD THEATRE UNTIL 8 SEPTEMBER After a sell-out run at Stratford-Upon-Avon, The Royal Shakespeare Company is bringing this play, based on the bestselling Cicero trilogy by author Robert Harris, to London. A look at the treacherous world of Roman politics over two plays – each of which exceeds three hours – the plot twists will keep you firmly in your seat. gielgudtheatre.co.uk
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
AGENDA.indd 15
THE LEHMAN TRILOGY NATIONAL THEATRE UNTIL 20 OCTOBER The financial disaster of 2008 looms like a storm cloud over this modern-day fable, charting the rise and spectacular fall of the Lehman Brothers across three generations. Sam Mendes directs Simon Russell Beale in a slick and compelling boom-and-bust tale that will stay with you long after curtain call. nationaltheatre.org.uk
15
05/08/2018 16:19
The Return of the Past: Postmodernism in British Architecture SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM UNTIL 27 AUGUST
Unseen models and drawings by the heroes of Postmodernism are a major draw in this ground-breaking show, the first of its kind to explore designs behind the renegade era. Step back into the 1970s and 80s to admire a riot of replicas from one of British architecture’s most radical periods. soane.org
Banksy, Greatest Hits: 2002-2008 LAZINC GALLERY UNTIL 25 AUGUST
Britain’s best-known street artist casts a powerful spell in this riotous retrospective, the result of a long-standing collaboration between the anonymous Banksy and Lazinc co-founder, Steve Lazarides. From iconic graffiti to stencilled canvases, the exhibition unveils the full scope of the artist’s work, including the ever-popular Girl and Balloon.. Bask in the boldness of Banksy’s vision, writ large with social and political commentary. lazinc.com
16
AGENDA.indd 16
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
05/08/2018 16:20
A R T S & C U LT U R E
Exhibition
MICHAEL JACKSON:
ON THE WALL N AT I O N A L P O R T R A I T G A L L E R Y Michael Jackson’s legacy in music and fashion has been documented in detail, but we know less about his influence on contemporary art. This unsung topic is brought to the fore in an exhibition to mark the late singer’s 60th birthday this summer, with contributions from artists Andy Warhol and Isa Genzken plus novelist Zadie Smith. Until 21 October; npg.org.uk
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
AGENDA.indd 17
17
05/08/2018 16:20
FRIDA KAHLO: Making Her Self Up
W
hen the iconic artist Frida Kahlo died in 1954, age 47, her husband, muralist Diego Riviera, did something for which we can all be grateful – he locked away many of her belongings in their Blue House on the outskirts of Mexico City for posterity. Discovered in 2004, more than 200 of these intimate items now form the V&A’s major summer exhibition: Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up. For the first time ever, this show pairs Kahlo’s dresses with her paintings to explore how the artist carefully shaped her distinctive identity through art, clothes and makeup after two major life events: her contraction of polio at the age of six, which left her disabled, and a near-fatal bus crash at 18, after which she was incapacitated for long periods. Co-curated by Circe Henestrosa, head of the School of Fashion, LASALLE College of the Arts, Singapore, and Claire Wilcox, the V&A’s senior curator of fashion, the retrospective features 22 of Kahlo’s signature Tehuana dresses,
18
AGENDA.indd 18
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
05/08/2018 16:20
A R T S & C U LT U R E
adopted as a glorification of all things indigenous, alongside one of her ebony eyebrow pencils, used to emphasise her trademark monobrow, and her favourite lipstick, Everything’s Rosy by Revlon. These will be shown together with plaster corsets, which she had to wear to support her back, and her prosthetic leg, used after she had her leg amputated in 1953 – this she clad it in a bright red leather
boot and adorned with bells, bows and pieces of silk embroidered with Chinese dragon motifs. In one room, curiosities are exhibited in wooden structures that mimic her sick bed, on the canopy of which her mother hung a mirror so she could draw her self-portraits. An openly bisexual feminist, communist and Mexican nationalist, Kahlo successfully transformed her broken body, difficult life and turbulent marriage into a work of art – and that’s why she continues to inspire people across the globe in such an unprecedented way to this day. V&A Until 4 November vam.ac.uk
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
AGENDA.indd 19
19
05/08/2018 16:20
20
AGENDA.indd 20
06/08/2018 15:37
A R T S & C U LT U R E
Frieze Sculpture
A
fter attracting more than five million visitors in 2017, Frieze Sculpture, the outdoor display of international artworks that’s open to all, is back in London’s Regent’s Park for a second year. Showcasing 25 artists from across the globe in collaboration with internationally renowned and smaller galleries, expect large-scale contemporary pieces from big names such as Tracey Emin and Richard Woods alongside emerging talents Michele Mathison, Larry Achiampong and Rana Begum. “‘I’m thrilled to see the return of Frieze Sculpture this summer, following the huge success of last year’s edition, which captured the London public’s imagination and created a new moment in the global art world calendar,” says Jo Stella-Sawicka, artistic director of Frieze. Running for three months over summer (it culminates in October to coincide with the annual Frieze London art fair), new for this year are an audio tour by curator Clare Lilley, director of programme at Yorkshire Sculpture Park, a downloadable family guide app designed to capture the imaginations of both young and old, plus four Sculpture Family Trail drop-in days led by the Royal Society of Sculptors.
Tim Etchells, ‘Everything is Lost’, 2018, Vitrine Gallery, London
Rana Begum, ‘No. 814’, 2018, The Third Line, Dubai, Kate Macgarry, London and Galerie Christian Lethert, Cologne
Conrad Showcross, ‘Optic Labyrinth (Arrangement I)’, 2018, Victoria Miro, London
Until 7 October; frieze.com Virginia Overton, ‘Untitled (122 x 244 View)’, 2018, White Cube, London
Barry Flanagan, ‘Large Nijinski on Anvil Point’, 2001, Waddington Custot, London
Richard Woods, ‘Holiday Home (Regent’s Park)’, 2018, Alan Cristea, London
Kimsooja, ‘A Needle Woman: Galaxy was a Memory, Earth is a Souvenir’, 2014, Axel Vervoordt Gallery, Antwerp Laura Ford, ‘Dancing Clog Girls I-III’, 2015, New Art Centre, Salisbury
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
AGENDA.indd 21
21
06/08/2018 15:38
Spotlight
Crowning
GLORY
The Royal Academy celebrates its 250th birthday with newly renovated galleries and a joined-up building that puts artists front and centre Words HOLLY BLACK
I
t’s been a quarter of a millennium since the Royal Academy was established under the guidance of celebrated portraitist Joshua Reynolds and 36 other leading artists and architects of the day. As an independent organisation heralding the very first British art school, it began life as a small gathering of like-minded individuals in a rented gallery on Pall Mall. Now, it’s a leading cultural hub based in a newly transformed home on The Strand, where it supports an astounding network of contemporary practitioners including Grayson Perry, Cornelia Parker, David Adjaye and Gilbert & George. Thanks to artful redevelopments conceived by RA architect David Chipperfield, visitors can now travel seamlessly between Burlington House and Burlington Gardens and gain access to more of the academy’s goings on than ever before. This unified space not only includes extended galleries, a new lecture theatre and the restoration of the Wolfson British Academy Room, but also repositions the RA Schools as the central focus of the institution’s site. The Weston Studio is presented as a public space to showcase student and alumni work and the Schools’ Corridor offers instructional displays about how artistic skills are honed (aided by a fair few terrifying anatomical sculptures). Charles Saumarez Smith, secretary and chief executive, explains the significance of this renewed emphasis: “We are, first and foremost… home to a community of the world’s greatest artists and architects, and a centre for training artists, with practitioners and an art school at our heart. This is not just a major building development; it is an undertaking which will transform the psychological, as well as the physical, nature of the academy.” Academician Bob and Roberta Smith, who is known for his fervent campaigning around arts education, shares this sentiment: ‘The Royal Academy and the great public collections are not just art galleries – they are huge repositories of free speech and free thinking.’
22
ARTS RA - RW.indd 22
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 11:37
A R T S & C U LT U R E
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
ARTS RA - RW.indd 23
23
04/08/2018 11:37
A R T S & C U LT U R E
“The Royal Academy and the great public collections are not just art galleries – they are huge repositories of free speech and free thinking”
Though these architectural interventions represent a new age, the academy is just as dedicated to celebrating its distinct heritage. For the first time, visitors can experience free displays drawn from the permanent collection. This incredible treasure trove of more than 46,000 works spans five centuries of British art, including donated pieces from every academician to date and vast ‘study collections’ of Classical and Renaissance prints, painting and sculpture. A significant highlight currently on show is a copy of Leonardo’s ‘The Last Supper’, carried out during his lifetime by a studio assistant. President Christopher Le Brun explains it is significant “because it is a copy. It covers the principle of what we are doing here, which is showing how works were used in schools, because they were for teaching purposes.” Until now, it has been hanging in Morton College, Oxford. “We’re grateful to them for looking after it,” Le Brun adds, “but we’d much rather have it back. I’ve been campaigning for a space worthy to show this for some time.” Naturally, the academy continues to mount sizeable temporary exhibitions, which span the parameters of art, design and architecture. None are more significant
24
ARTS RA - RW.indd 24
hang and perhaps consider a purchase (works are for sale, with proceeds funding the school). This time round, Grayson Perry has coordinated the selection and display, employing canary yellow walls to pack an added punch. “It’s a big rough and tumble,” he says. “Everyone who subjects their work to it — you’re in the mix! It’s all about a celebration of making stuff. There is no other show like it in the world where someone like Anselm Kiefer or Marina
BOB & ROBERTA SMITH, RA
that the annual Summer Exhibition, which has existed as long as the academy itself. This cacophonous open-submission show was first announced as ‘an annual exhibition of paintings, sculptures and designs which shall be open to all artists of distinguished merit’. Sure enough, it became a high-society affair peppered with scandal, where the likes of Turner and Constable engaged in battles of oneupmanship, and the Pre-Raphaelites shocked the art establishment with their idealised views of beauty and romance. Now, 250 years on, the show is as popular as ever, with similar crowds craning their necks to examine the wall-to-ceiling salon
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 11:37
Abramovic or David Hockney show in the same space as Joe Bloggs.” That is certainly true, and Perry’s love of kitsch aesthetics has seen the work of Royal Academicians jostling for space with a bizarre collection of portraits of the artist himself and more than a smattering of politically motivated pieces (spot the portrait of Nigel Farage and a more outlandish image of Jeremy Corbyn). In a truly democratic twist, infamous street artist Banksy submitted a painting under the name Bryan K Gasmaan, an anagram of ‘Banksy anagram’, but it was not selected. However, his heartfelt image of a battered balloon changing the ‘Vote Leave’ slogan to ‘Vote Love’ was included, a prescient reminder of how the scars of the Brexit referendum run deep. Part of the fun of the Summer Exhibition is spotting the ‘real’ artists among the amateurs, not to mention the fantastic selection of Academicians’ work. This year two enormous photo-composite canvases by David Hockney directly reference studio practice, Michael Landy’s shopping trolley
full of knick-knacks screams at passersby to snap up a bargain, and Tony Cragg’s bizarre, abstract wooden sculptures seem more akin to displaced mud or another, unknown gelatinous material. However, this is by no means the only opportunity to see Academicians’ work on site. Throughout the year the RA works with artists and architects to mount exhibitions that often engage with a specific strand of their practice - such is the joy of an organisation built on supporting active practitioners. The ‘new’ academy has been inaugurated with Tacita Dean’s ‘Landscape’, an exhibition drawing connections
between the RA’s historical association with Thomas Gainsborough, JMW Turner and John Constable, all of whom championed the subject. Her precisely executed slate drawings are reminiscent of Victorian school rooms and share both the immediacy and deft energy of pleinair sketching. This autumn, fellow RA Renzo Piano is the subject of the first annual architecture show in the newly refurbished galleries. It will span ground-breaking projects such as his Centre Pompidou, Paris, The Shard, London, and the Whitney Museum of American Art, New York, and include everything from models to archive photographs. On the opposite end of the spectrum, a massive survey charting Oceanic art throughout history opens simultaneously. This expansive show will cover everything from historic indigenous objects throughout the vast Pacific region to panoramic video works by New Zealand contemporary artist Lisa Reihana. Her ‘digital wallpaper’ reimagining Captain Cook’s precolonisation encounters in the South Pacific captivated audiences at the 2017 Venice Biennale. Even later in the year, a show of extremely delicate works on paper by Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt reveal the importance of drawing for two of Austria’s most celebrated artists. It will be a rare chance to see the pieces before they go back into storage for conservation reasons. This diverse, international programme repositions the Royal Academy’s curatorial intent in the same way that the building’s subtle architectural interventions have refocused on the schools. With new and reinvigorated galleries there is room to breathe, and visitors have the chance to take their pick from the historic, contemporary and hyper-focused. Along with new eateries, collateral displays, a plentiful programme of events and a fully digitised online database (which has more often than not proved to get people away from their computers
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
ARTS RA - RW.indd 25
and through gallery doors) the academy’s offerings suddenly seem bountiful when previously there was a sense that the whole building was off limits when major shows closed their doors. Artistic director Tim Marlow promised that the new RA would become “the most animated campus in central London, running all the way from Piccadilly to Mayfair” and if the swarming crowds continue, he’ll be proved right. The anniversary heralds a rebirth for an institution that’s worked hard to shrug off accusations that it’s overly inward-looking, but still manages to keep the Academicians at the centre of it all. Once again, Grayson Perry’s wry aside describes it best: “We are still here: a bunch of old artists.” The Summer Exhibition, coordinated by Grayson Perry, runs until 19 August; royalacademy.org.uk
25
04/08/2018 11:38
26
WHITE CITY HOUSE_v5 RW.indd 26
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
05/08/2018 16:33
A R T S & C U LT U R E
Members Club
GO WEST White City House at the BBC’s old Television Centre boasts all the usual Soho House membership perks – but really you come here for the museum-level art and a comforting dose of nostalgia Words BETHAN RYDER
©PETER BLAKE
B
BC Television Centre. It’s hard to imagine a better site for Soho House founder Nick Jones to commandeer and add to his ever-growing global portfolio of private members clubs. Ever since it’s birth in the late 1990s, Soho House is a brand that’s built its reputation on being the media world’s favourite haunt. So for White City House – as the latest outpost is called – to be located in this iconic 1960s West London landmark is quite a coup. Part of a £1.5 billion residential and retail makeover, the development aims to do for west London what Shoreditch House did for east London when it opened in 2007 as a space for creative types to meet and relax. The property’s illustrious past guided the project, with the Soho House interiors team, helmed by design director Linda Boronkay, working in league with art curator Kate Bryan to create a venue that celebrated its rich broadcasting legacy and mid-century modern aesthetic. Architect Graham Dawbarn was said to have devised the original question mark-shaped masterplan while doodling in a pub. The iconic Grade II-listed doughnutshaped Helios at its heart now includes private residential apartments together with 45 White City House hotel guestrooms. Meanwhile the members’ club, which opened to founding members in April and others in May, occupies the 8th, 9th and 10th (top) floors of the adjoining newbuild. “This was a building at the forefront of broadcasting,” explains Bryan, who has been head of the group’s art collections globally since October 2016 when she began work on White City House. “There was so much history there, but it was also radical. We wanted to tap into that nostalgia but not forget it was also somewhere that was technically innovative.” Bryan and Boronkay worked in tandem to develop the project, with the latter taking interiors inspiration from James Bond movies of the 1950s and 60s, and of course, that televisual paean to sleek mid-century style, Mad Men. But against this backdrop of 1960s materials of terrazzo, rich wood panelling and patterned fabrics created by resurrected modernist textiles company Tibor, it’s British broadcasting history that is championed and referenced in the completed club spaces. As the BBC’s headquarters, Television Centre is deeply embedded in the national consciousness. The studios produced programmes such as Blue Peter, Take Hart and Doctor Who, and the Soho House team have had fun weaving nods to these childhood favourites into the interiors. Circular motifs in the bas relief wood-panelled lifts echo the design of the Doctor Who Tardis, while the illuminated dots on the façade of the ground floor Allis bar reference the atomic dots on Television Centre’s brick exterior. “The references aren’t immediately obvious but they feel
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
WHITE CITY HOUSE_v5 RW.indd 27
27
05/08/2018 16:33
A R T S & C U LT U R E
Archie Proudfoot’s ode to ‘Test Card F’
familiar. Guests should be able to connect the dots in the end,” says Boronkay. For art curator Bryan, it was a dream project. With Jones wanting to take the Soho House art collection “to the next level”, she was given carte blanche to acquire brand new artwork, rather than simply borrow from the 3,500 pieces circulating around the 19 clubs. “This is our first entirely specific collection; everything was commissioned or acquired with the site in mind,” she explains. “It’s such a historic place, occupying a big part of the shared British cultural landscape for the second half of the 20th-century. It was such a ripe starting point and all the artists were on board as soon as they heard there was due to be a Soho House there.” Every artwork exhibited in the ground floor spaces has a television connection with Archie Proudfoot’s ode to ‘Test Card F’, a beautifully rendered painted-glass panel featuring the chalkboard girl and her clown, taking centre stage. Bryan spotted the London-based sign painter and gold leaf artist at The Other Art Fair. It was Proudfoot’s first commission for Soho House group: “The brief was that I could use classic BBC imagery. It became the largest and most complex piece I’ve ever worked on,” he says.
28
WHITE CITY HOUSE_v5 RW.indd 28
“Everything was commissioned with the site in mind. It was such a ripe starting point and all the artists were on board as soon as they heard there was due to be a Soho House there” Bryan estimates that around 40 per cent of the artworks on display at White City House are by artists who have never previously contributed to Soho House’s collections. “Mary McCartney’s wonderful diptych is her first work for us and Chris Levine’s ‘Playschool Windows’ is not only our first acquisition by that artist but the first light-based work in the collection,” she says. The three pieces by Levine are a play on the iconic shapes of the windows – round, square and arched – in the cult classic children’s programme. Levine had fond recollections of the show: “When Playschool was mentioned, immediately the portals burned onto my consciousness. It was one of the things we were fed as children, the windows – every day we go into a different portal, entering a different dimension. Well, that’s my
territory.” Produced in single wavelength laser light, which transmits as a very pure blue, the shapes appear almost threedimensional echoing into infinity. On the 9th floor, which is the main club floor incorporating a bar, dining room and lounge areas, it’s the late children’s TV presenter Tony Hart who is commemorated. “Everything displayed here is a love letter to Hart.
Soho House art curator Kate Bryan commissioned and acquired the impressive collection of artworks
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 12:07
He was such an important figure as he made art programmes on the BBC for 50 years,” says Bryan. “I started talking to major museumlevel artists and it turned out that lots of them sent their art in to the programme, hoping it would appear on the show’s gallery.” This determined the commissioning for the space with Bryan asking artists including David Shrigley, Julie Verhoeven, Gavin Turk, and Gillian Wearing to “tap into their inner child”. Many can be seen on the wood veneer-panelled walls of the dining room and Bryan is evidently pleased with the results. The 9th floor restaurant of White City House features wood-veneer panelled walls and brass and leather dining chairs. ‘The Dear Tony Hart’ wall is a homage to the late TV presenter and features newly commissioned artworks drawn by significant contemporary artists including Thomas Heatherwick and Sue Webster
“They’re so special, ranging from a pristine maquette by designer Thomas Heatherwick to a work actually made in 1973 by Sue Webster as a young child,” she says. “It’s wonderful to see a permanent homage to Tony Hart – the members love it!” A similar tribute gallery is on display on the top floor in the wood-panelled cabana that leads out onto the rooftop pool. Here artworks inspired by the natural world are dedicated to David Attenborough. Also in keeping with the mid-century mood is a series of pieces by contemporary artists working in geometric abstraction, a movement that peaked during British modernism. Best of all you don’t have to be a White City House member to enjoy the new spaces and artworks. Guests who book into the guestrooms also gain access to the club facilities, which include the rooftop pool, expansive wellness area, gym and pool measuring 30,000 sq ft in the basement, and a two-screen Electric cinema. In the bedrooms fluted timber wardrobes, parquet floors, Formica furniture and vintage-inspired lighting maintain the 1960s mood. Overnight guests can also enjoy spying past and current BBC stars in photography collages created by Peter Blake. “He created four different versions, with the all-star cast assembled outside the façade of Television Centre. There is one in every room,” says Bryan, “They’re nostalgic, charming and classic Peter Blake.” White City House is not the only project that has been keeping Boronkay and Bryan busy as the group’s expansion continues apace. DUMBO House, a club for Brooklyn’s creative community that
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
WHITE CITY HOUSE_v5 RW.indd 29
The rooftop swimming pool enjoys views from Wembley to the Shard
opened in May, has just been joined this summer by a 79-bedroom Amsterdam club in the redeveloped 1937 landmark art deco Bungehuis university building and a 16-bedroom Little Beach House located in a 1950s building in Garraf, a small town 30 minutes outside of Barcelona. There is of course the possibility that this flurry of openings could diminish the sense of exclusivity that is a prerequisite of members’ clubs, but by expanding on a global stage and creating spaces that are intimately connected to their surroundings, it’s a balance that Soho House Group continues to get just right. Doubles from £195, excluding breakfast ( from £10 for non-members). Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane; whitecityhouse.com
29
04/08/2018 12:07
Untitled-3 1
20/07/2017 12:05
STYLE The
Sea Change Celebrating her eponymous label’s 10th anniversary, shoe designer Charlotte Olympia is taking a dip in a new direction by teaming up with Brazilian swimwear designer Adriana Degreas. The result is a 16-piece capsule collection that channels Olympia’s love of old-school Hollywood style, modelled with retro charm by Sabine Getty. With pieces ranging from high-waist bikinis to leopard-print mules, it’s guaranteed to bring out your inner screen siren. charlotteolympia.com
031_GLOSSARY_AUG18.indd 31
06/08/2018 21:33
Fashion Notes
Animal print mania, the supersized sell-out straw hat and the saddle bag returns
SADDLE UP
From Carrie Bradshaw to Paris Hilton, Dior’s celebrated Saddle Bag was seen on the arm of every It girl in the late 90s and early noughties. Now, nostalgic demand means Dior has decided to reissue the iconic tote.
From £1,700; dior.com
Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
FLOWER POWER
British designer Richard Quinn – whose first LFW show in February was attended by none other than e Queen – has created a limitededition accessories range for Liberty. Using their vast print archive, he has reimagined florals from the 50s, 60s, 70s and 90s, and fused them together for a vibrant collection. Richard Quinn x Liberty London, £70-£695
libertylondon.com
1 2
Buzz brand
LA BOMBA Whoever coined the phrase ‘bigger doesn’t always mean better’ clearly didn’t tell Simon Porte Jacquemus, who has created the accessory of the season – the outrageously oversized Le Grand Chapeau Bomba. The huge hat has become a huge hit on social media with celebrities and It girls, causing a complete sell-out. Due back in stock soon, catch it while you can.
jacquemus.com
32
FASHION NOTES sr.indd 32
Float like a Butterfly
Make a splash this summer with the world’s first designer inflatable – the Missoni x FunBoy butterfly float. The luxe lilo is, of course, screen printed with the Italian fashion house’s signature multi-colour patterns. Lounging in the pool has never looked so chic.
£112; funboy.com
3
5
4
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
08/08/2018 09:13
STYLE
SHEER DELIGHT
New York-based fashion designer Ulla Johnson grew up travelling the world with her archaeologist parents and she regularly draws on these rich memories for inspiration. The SS18 collection is full of bohemian flair, with voluminous sheer fabrics, pale pastels and floaty, feminine ruffles.
ullajohnson.com
A ROARING TREND
6
The perennial print that never goes out of style, leopard print has ruled the style-stakes this summer and is set to be an even bigger trend this autumn. Heralded as the most popular skirt of the year, the satin Naomi skirt by Australian brand Réalisation Par (left) has been spotted on every influencer worth their salt. Get ahead of the pack with our pick of the best animal print pieces to add to your wardrobe now.
7
9 8 1. RIXO Gracie silk-crepe wrap skirt, £225, rixolondon.com; 2. ADRIANA DEGREAS X CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Swimsuit, £380, charlotteolympia.com; 3. MIU MIU Sunglasses, £220, net-a-porter.com; 4. GUCCI Velvet turban, £315, gucci.com; 5. AQUAZURRA Viviana pumps, £710, net-a-porter.com; 6. RÉALISATION PAR Naomi skirt, £130, realisationpar.com; 7. NILI LOTAN Silk maxi dress, £755, net-a-porter.com; 8. GLOBE-TROTTER X CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Trolley case, £1,850, globe-trotter.com; 9. RIXO Midi dress, £567, farfetch.com; 10. SAINT LAUREN Mica bag, £2,700, farfetch.com; 11. ANNE LAURE MAIS @adenorah 12. SHOES From a selection, net-a-porter.com
10
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
FASHION NOTES sr.indd 33
12 11
33
08/08/2018 09:13
STYLE
34
SOPHIA WEBSTER.indd 34
08/08/2018 07:39
FOOD & DRINK
Stiletto
Interview
s
&Storybooks Sophia Webster’s spangly shoes offer as much escapism as any modern-day fairytale. Now, she’s set to sprinkle her magic over Sloane Avenue with the opening of her second London store Words GRACE COOK
S
tepping into Sophia Webster’s east London studio is like falling down a fantasy-filled rabbit hole. Upon entering the office space through a floral-filled archway – a leftover prop from the designer’s wedding to husband Bobby Stockley in 2014 – one finds a reception area filled with candy-coloured furniture and bathroom doors with embossed plaques that read ‘mermaids’ and ‘mermen’, not men and women. Webster’s office is, however, where the decor really takes hold: on the wall is a neon sign that reads ‘Cinder Freaking Ella’; on the shelves sit books on Disney and art deco architecture, and overhead hangs a giant crystal chandelier finished with 14 glass-blown pink flamingos, which is soon to take up a residency in the designer’s new store on Sloane Avenue, Chelsea. It’s not at all surprising. Since launching her namesake brand in 2012, 33-year-old Webster has built a megawatt global business –winning the coveted British Fashion Council’s Vogue Fashion Fund in 2016 – and has, in the process, become the millennial fairy godmother of footwear. With a sprinkling of Swarovski crystals and a dazzle of magic dust, the London-born designer conjures up collections that wouldn’t look out of place on a princess – or celebrity; her designs have been worn on the red carpet by everyone from Jessica Chastain to Taylor Swift to Rihanna. Her famed Chiara stilettos meanwhile, which no doubt
bring good fortune to the wearer with one simple click of the wing-embellished heels, have been worn by Mariah Carey. “I think I’ve always been a bit of a dreamer,” says Webster, sitting at her desk upon which is a bouquet of fresh peonies in a cartoon Frida Kahlo vase. “I like to tap into that fantasy part of my imagination, that hyper femininity. When I started the brand, womenswear was very masculine and everything seemed quite neutral and minimal. I wanted to come out with something that felt fresh.” That something fresh has expanded rapidly since launch: today, the brand is stocked in more than 200 outlets internationally, including Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges in London, and the range now includes bridal and children’s footwear as well as a full handbag collection. This year sees the opening of her second store in the UK capital. “I felt like now was the time to open another space,” she says. “One big enough to house all the collections and store exclusives. You’re limited with how much product you can have in a store based on the size of the stockroom. We have greater scope with Sloane Avenue.” Spread over two floors and bedecked in Webster’s signature warm pastel tones with plush carpets and velvet furnishings, the new store will have a dedicated area for the kids line and a bigger space for the bags. It will also house a beauty salon and private shopping area, where shoppers can book in for a pedicure while picking out the perfect pair of platforms.
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
SOPHIA WEBSTER.indd 35
35
08/08/2018 07:39
“We get a lot of bridal parties coming into the Mount Street store,” she says. “They have Champagne, try on shoes, and have fun. We have a dedicated space for this in the new store – we’re responding to what the customer wants and trying to extend that whole brand experience.” Webster has always been about brand experience. Each London Fashion Week presentation gives the designer the chance to create an alternative reality; for Autumn/Winter 2018, Webster took over the sumptuous Pompadour ballroom at the Hotel Cafe Royal on Regent Street, where sequin-adorned models sat atop giant twirling mirror balls, and others in fluffy shoes stood on podiums wafting vast feather fans. The theme? Baz Luhrmann’s 1992 movie Strictly Ballroom. “That film is particular a favourite of mine, especially because me and my sister did ballroom dancing for years so it’s quite a nostalgic watch now,” says Webster, who regularly performed in the glitzy gilt of Blackpool Tower’s ballroom. “The sequins, the outfits, the routines, competitiveness… At the time, we would watch it obsessively. I’ve always tapped into different parts of my passions to draw inspiration from.” The collection includes ballroomworthy sandals in chartreuse yellow with tassled straps that snake up to the knee that are perfect for the tango, and stilettos covered in crystal and pearlescent fruits that are made for doing the mambo. Bags are emblazoned with Webster’s signature cutesy catch phrases, including ‘I Don’t Need a Mango to Tango’, and ‘She’s The Perfect Dancer’. (In line with this,
lots of bright, vivacious shades. And lots of different kinds of embellishments, sparkle and sequins, and things.” Cue collections that include the bestselling Bibi pointed ballet flat rendered in Crayola-coloured suedes and finished with iridescent wings, clashing animal print sandals, and candy hued sneakers with glittery toe caps. So synonymous are her two worlds, that the Swarovskiencrusted version of the Chiara heels are today embellished by the same Croydon-based company that made Webster’s dancing dresses. As she grew older, her ambitions for her dancing costumes grew ever more elaborate, and her instructions to the makers more ‘specific’, she says. It’s perhaps serendipitous that Webster became a designer – after all, she was a designer of sorts before she ever really knew what a designer was. Yet it’s perhaps ironic that the type of ballroom Webster practiced in meant she danced barefoot; it’s also perhaps ironic that her favourite Disney princess is in fact Ariel, who for the most part of the tale, has no feet at all. It’s clear that Webster is anything but conventional. A student of fine art, she only realised her passion for footwear during a life drawing class in her foundation year. “Instead of it being a hairy, naked man, it was a fashion model – she brought lots of clothes with her and we had a certain amount of time to sketch each look,” she says. “I kept focusing on and drawing the shoes, and that was it.” While all the other art students were making sculptures, Webster designed and made shoes for her final project. She became the second footwear designer ever to win the British Fashion Council’s Vogue Fashion Fund and last year
“I like to tap into that fantasy part of my imagination, that hyper femininity”
Webster’s bridal shoes come transcribed with ‘Wifey for Lifey’ on the soles.) The Pompadour ballroom was decorated with countless trophies she and her sister won throughout their dancing years. “That was an accidental inclusion,” she jokes. “We wanted them for the set, and I thought my mum might still have a few of ours left – it turned out she had crates and crates of them. It was quite nice to see them all out again. I wasn’t trying to show off.” The glamour of her ballroom dance days is also a major influence in her designs. “I think the way I’d put a collection or a presentation together is similar to how I used to design my dancing costumes,” she says. “For dancing, you want to pick colours that are going to get you noticed, so there are
NEW SEASON PICKS
MAIN PICTURE ABOVE: JUMBO LILICO, £495; LEFT TO RIGHT: LUCIA, £450; ROSALIND, £295; CARMEN, £550; SOLEIL, £395
36
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
STYLE
teamed up with Puma for an exclusive capsule that applied her tropical sense of irreverence to streetwear. She credits much of her success to this same sort of fatalistic, happy accident. The launch of her now immensely popular bridal line coincided with the designer’s own wedding, when she realised there “was nothing on the market that I wanted to wear for my own special day”, she says. Same too, for her kids collection. “There was no strategy; that happened because I was pregnant with my daughter, Bibi, now three. I wanted her to wear the same shoes as me. And it turns out, other women want to dress their little girls up as well.” That the brand is so digitally native Webster also attributes to a mere coincidence of timing as Instagram was in its infancy when she launched her e-commerce business. Today, the @sophiawebster account has more than one million followers and 50 per cent of the Mount Street store’s activities are digital - customers either click and collect in-store, or visit to try the shoes on and get a feel for the brand before ordering the shoes online. Designed to complement each other, the store even has an area for digital user-generated content, where shoppers can stand in front of huge neon
Chiara wings and pose for a selfie, and, naturally, the photo booth is equipped with its own hashtag. But of course, none of it was really accidental. Webster’s bright and breezy charm and long golden locks could have been taken from a story book, but the designer is a canny business woman who, unlike the princesses in such fairytales, definitely doesn’t leave things up to chance. Realising not every woman wants shoes covered in spangle all the time, a newly released core collection of simple strappy sandals come in a range of heel heights to suit every taste, and age. And price point: the sandals retail for £250 and serve as a new entry level into the brand. “Fairy stories offer an escapism,” she says. “But sometimes, when I’m watching a Disney film with my little girl, I find myself saying, ‘You know, it’s not always going to work out like this.’” A pair of shoes might have changed Cinderella’s life, but Webster’s daughter will no doubt be under no such illusion. Thankfully, her mummy has a pair of shoes to counter that: colourful courts that read ‘Boss Lady.’ Those ones are for princesses that don’t need to be saved. 86 Sloane Avenue, Chelsea, SW3; sophiawebster.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
Sophia Webster’s
L
O
N
D
O
N
GLOSSARY GO-TO RESTAURANT The modern Turkish restaurant Oklava on Luke St in Shoreditch is my favourite place to eat – it’s just round the corner from my studio so the team and I go there for lunch a lot. They make the most delicious small plates the grilled halloumi with honey and oregano is insanely good. ocklava.co.uk BEAUTY BLACK BOOK I’m pretty low maintenance when it comes to beauty treatments, but I always make time to have my hair dyed blonde by Tej Sami, the colour director at Daniel Galvin in Marylebone. danielgalvin.com FAVOURITE FASHION DESIGNER I’m a huge fan of Mary Katrantzou’s colourful aesthetic and bold prints. My latest purchase was a bejewelled peacock print skirt. I found out I was pregnant with twins shortly after I bought it, so I’m waiting to wear it for the first time. marykatrantzou.com CULTURE FIX The Victoria & Albert is my favourite museum. It’s such a beautiful building and they have so many exhibitions linked to fashion, which is always inspiring. I’m really looking forward to seeing the Frida Kahlo show. vam.ac.uk BAR OF CHOICE The cocktails at Shoreditch House are always really good. I usually pick the fruitiest one on the menu. shoreditchhouse.com MY HIDDEN GEM Lloyd Park in Walthamstow is where I like to go to escape it all. The tranquil William Morris gardens are the perfect place to relax and enjoy the sun. walthamforest.gov.uk
37
HOLIDAY EDIT
Sunshine
SEASON Escaping to the beach or summer in the city, we bring you the most covetable dresses and accessories Fashion CHARLOTTE ADSETT
GO ANYWHERE DRESSES CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTRE: PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI Domino dress, £1,345, matchesfashion.com; BORGO DE NOR Aiana dress, £675, net-a-porter.com; CAROLINA HERRERA Floral dress, £1,965, net-a-porter.com; REJINA PYO Greta dress, £695, net-a-porter.com; SALONI Floral dress, £867, farfetch.com; ULLA JOHNSON Joan dress, £606, modaoperandi.com; GANNI Silvery dress, £205, brownsfashion.com; ZIMMERMANN Scallop dress, £795, brownsfashion.com; GUL HURGEL Ruffle sleeve dress, £975, modaoperandi.com; MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH Seville dress, £856, farfetch.com
38
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
STYLE
SUNNY HATS
MARYSIA X LOLA Provençal straw hat, £510, marysia.com
SENSI STUDIO Lady Ibiza straw hat, £185, net-a-porter.com
GIGI BURRIS Ete straw hat, £378, modaoperandi.com
JACQUEMUS Le Grand Bomba Chapeau, £478, modaoperandi.com
EUGINA KIM Mirabel straw hat, £470, farfetch.com
SUPER SANDALS
GIANVITO ROSSI Portofino sandals, £655, harrods.com
GUCCI Peggy sandals, £625, gucci.com
ATTICO Alma espadrilles, £253, modaoperandi.com
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Gavi sandals, £625, matchesfashion.com
DOLCE & GABBANA Embroidered sandals £1,184, farfetch.com
ALEXANDRE BIRMAN Clarita wedges, £475, net-a-porter.com
LOEFFLER RANDALL Celeste velvet mules, £300, net-a-porter.com
PRADA Bow-embellished sandals, £555, matchesfashion.com
BASKET BAGS
ARANZ Bayside tote, £348, modaoperandi.com
CESTA COLLECTIVE Lunchpail bucket bag, £325, net-a-porter.com
POOLSIDE The Lori bag, £156, modaoperandi.com
ALIENINA Woven bucket bag, £160, net-a-porter.com
GUCCI Raffia tote, £875, gucci.com
MUUN Pouch tote, £192, modaoperandi.com
STATEMENT SUNGLASSES SAINT LAURENT Lou Lou sunglasses, £333, farfetch.com
CHIMI Tiger sunglasses, £130, net-a-porter.com
JIMMY CHOO Dhelia sunglasses, £340, jimmychoo.com
GUCCI Glitter sunglasses, £225, gucci.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
ANDY WOLFF Florence sunglasses, £360 net-a-porter.com
39
CLEAN WAVES DPS.indd 40
05/08/2018 10:10
C R E AT I N G C H A N G E . I S L A N D B Y I S L A N D . S U N G L A S S E S M A D E F R O M O C E A N P L A S T I C ® C L E A N W AV E S . C O M
CLEAN WAVES DPS.indd 41
05/08/2018 10:33
MY HOLIDAYS
I don’t take many vacations, so when I do, they have to count. I go to places where I can completely switch off. I’m heading to a special island called Illa de Tagomago (pictured), off the coast of Ibiza, to stay with friends later this summer. I always return to the South of France and the Maldives – I’ve stayed in resorts there including Cheval Blanc, Velaa and Reethi Rah.
ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS Niki leather sandals, £130 farfetch.com
ON THE FLIGHT
I WEAR COMFORTABLE PUMPS AND CLOTHES AND I APPLY LAYERS OF MOISTURISER THROUGHOUT THE FLIGHT. I DRINK LOTS OF WATER AND ATTEMPT TO RESIST ALCOHOL. I ALWAYS TAKE A CASHMERE SCARF AS PLANES ARE SO COLD. I READ A GOOD BOOK AND TRY TO SLEEP.
STYLE NOTEBOOK
ELIZABETH HURLEY
FILÙ Arenal straw hat, £412 matchesfashion.com
The actress and swimwear designer on her holiday essentials By CHARLOTTE ADSETT
TOM FORD Cat-eye mirrored sunglasses, £310 net-a-porter.com
MY HOLIDAY PREP
EMILIO PUCCI Printed beach towel, £550 emiliopucci.com
42
LIZ HURLEY_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 42
“I use a self-tanner for a couple of weeks beforehand so I don’t look too pasty, and get my hair done at Jo Hansford in Mayfair”
JIMMY CHOO Lang silver mirror sandals, £575 jimmychoo.com
MY SUMMER HOLIDAY ICON
Brigitte Bardot for her footloose and carefree looks.
MY FAVOURITE SUMMER SCENT
I love Aerin Mediterranean Honeysuckle Eau de Parfum (£98, 50ml). It always reminds me of holidays.
MY WORKOUT
I’m very active and walk a lot with my dogs. Pilates is my favourite exercise. When I’m in London, I go to classes at Grace Belgravia, the womenonly health club.
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
07/08/2018 10:23
STYLE
ELIZABETH HURLEY BEACH Glimmer bikini, £138 elizabethhurley.com
MY HOLIDAY STYLE
TEMPERLEY LONDON Juliette satin dress, £995 temperleylondon.com
I LOVE COLOUR – PINK, BLUE AND WHITE LOOK GREAT IN THE SUN. BLACK IS TOO HARSH. I LIKE TO LAYER SHEER FABRICS OVER MY SWIMWEAR – KAFTANS ARE THE PERFECT COVER-UP. I PACK A BIG STRAW HAT TO PROTECT MY FACE FROM THE SUN AND COVER UP BAD HAIR DAYS. I ALWAYS PICK UP LOCAL THINGS WHEREVER I GO – MAYBE A STRAW BAG OR A LOCALLY WOVEN SARONG.
MY PACKING TIPS
First, I choose my favourites from my beachwear collection: bikinis, one-pieces, kaftans and beach dresses, all laid out on my bed in colour blocks. I pack a dress for every night and a pair of gold or nude strappy high sandals that will go with all of them, along with a bamboo bag I found in Brazil. I add flats, a beach bag, gold jewellery and Tom Ford sunglasses. I pack lightly and create a capsule wardrobe by making sure everything works with other pieces.
IN MY BEACH BAG
THEODORA WARRE Sun disc necklace, £216 modaoperandi.com
ELIZABETH HURLEY BEACH Michon swimsuit, £120 elizabethhurley.com
I take a towel, sun cream, a book, water, my phone, lip gloss, a spare bikini, a cotton kaftan and a sarong.
ELIZABETH HURLEY BEACH Avery beach dress, £309 elizabethhurley.com
SENSI STUDIO Large straw tote, £234 modaoperandi.com
My Holiday Beauty Essentials
SHAMPOO
BUMBLE AND BUMBLE Surf Foam Wash Shampoo, £20
BODY OIL
TOM FORD Soleil Blanc Shimmering Body Oil, £72
MOISTURISER
CLINIQUE Moisture Surge 72-Hour Hydrator, £36
BRONZER
ESTÉE LAUDER Bronze Goddess Powder, £34
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
LIZ HURLEY_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 43
SUN CREAM
LA MER SPF50 UV Protecting Fluid, £80
LIP GLOSS MAC Lipglass, £15.50
43
07/08/2018 10:23
Stephen Webster Salon Second Floor, 130 Mount Street, London W1K 3NY 0203 298 0970
Untitled-1Webster_The JEWELLERY 1 APRIL_v4.indd 60 Stephen Glossary_Nov 2017.indd 1
14/12/2017 15:58 17/04/2018 18:12 04:04 23/11/2017
STYLE
EMERALD CITY Be seen in green this season, with dazzling pieces that are guaranteed to sparkle Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTRE: CARTIER Coloratura emerald, spinel, mandarin garnet, turquoise, onyx and diamond necklace, £POA, cartier.co.uk STEPHEN WEBSTER Magnipheasant Plumage white gold, white diamonds and emeralds earrings, £28,600, stephenwebster.com RALPH MASRI Bolt emerald earrings, £6,533, modaoperandi.com CHAUMET Cascades Royal emerald and diamond ring, £POA, chaumet.com TIFFANY Emerald and diamond earrings, £POA, tiffany.co.uk AMRAPALI 18 carat gold, sterling silver, diamond and emerald earrings, £9,300, net-a-porter.com DAVID MORRIS Important emerald and diamond bangle, £POA, davidmorris.com GRAFF Emerald and diamond earrings, £POA, graffdiamonds.com BULGARI Roaring 80’s Wild Pop white gold, diamonds and emeralds brooch, £POA, bulgari.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM
JEWELLERY sr.indd 45
45
06/08/2018 18:05
WOMAN’S HOUR More luxury watch brands are crafting timepieces for women that rival men’s designs rather than mimic them – it’s about time Words AVRIL GROOM
46
WATCHES 5 4PP_v2.indd 46
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
05/08/2018 19:30
STYLE
I
f there is one overall conclusion to be drawn from this year’s two top watch trade exhibitions – Baselworld and Geneva’s Salon Internationale de la Haute Horlogerle (SIHH) – it’s that women’s luxury watches are no longer the poor relation. In a market that has proved tricky over the past couple of years, they’ve outperformed men’s in terms of sales growth – and nothing concentrates a brand’s mind better than this. It’s no longer enough to offer women a downsized version of a men’s design, obligatory diamond bezel attached, and probably with a cheaper quartz movement instead of a mechanical one. Women too enjoy the sense of craft that comes with a handmade movement, and the more they learn, the more interested they become in the higher echelons of horology and the complications it entails. To meet this demand, at Basel Bulgari launched the discreet Diva Finissima Minute Repeater, which has the world’s thinnest repeater movement beating inside, while at SIHH Jaeger-LeCoultre revived the 101 (the smallest mechanical movement ever, designed in 1925) with a jewellery watch that is phenomenally expensive for its tiny size but much appreciated in connoisseur circles. At SIHH, which is put on by The Richemont Group, prestigious jewellery watch brands such as Cartier, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels exhibit alongside an increasingly influential group of small independent watchmakers. Basel is bigger and perhaps more masculine, although top brands in the Swatch Group (Breguet, Harry Winston) plus jewellers Bulgari, Chopard and Chanel, appear committed to the female market, as are the more experimental Hublot and TAG Heuer. There’s also a big effort on well-priced feminine mechanical movements: standouts include Nomos’ square Petit Four, inside which sits a slender, circular movement; Rado’s True Thinline Nature collection, which mixes ceramic with mother-of-pearl; and Frédérique Constant’s Amour Heart Beat, its first women’s automatic, complete with a double heart-shaped ‘window’ on the movement. In fact, movements have become something of a micro trend. Chanel specially designed a modernist skeleton movement for the Boy.Friend, Bulgari went for a witty skeletonised dial featuring its deconstructed logo for the Lucea, and Audemars Piguet chose a partially showing movement with an open window to the escapement for its Millenary collection. Many women also love the look of a moon phase that follows the lunar cycle, but now the space race goes further. Dior’s 36mm VIII Montaigne Clair de Lune turns the watch face into a lunar surface by creating a moonscape of tiny, textured gold threads, while Van Cleef & Arpels’ female version of the men’s Planetarium not only shows three planets as gems rotating around the gold sun in real time, but includes a diamond moon circling earth. Colour, too, has a new importance in women’s watches – and we don’t just mean the greens of Glashütte’s 1960s-style Panorama Date or the red, green or black of Cartier’s Révélation d’une Panthère. We’re referring to the rainbow hues as seen on Rolex’s baguette-bezelled Rainbow Daytona, Hublot’s crystalcased Big Bang Unico Sapphire or Harry Winston’s Premier Candy. By contrast, pure white diamonds are also having a watch moment, such as on the evening versions of Omega’s new point-of-entry Trésor and on Grand Seiko’s textured-dial, diamond-bezel automatic. Sportier diamonds float free in Chopard’s seaworthy Happy Sport, but the fast-growing area of women’s sports watches also includes examples of vintage elegance, like Patek Philippe’s handwound chronograph or Cartier’s Panthère with its triple gold bracelet. It all signals an increasing breadth of choice that men have always expected and women can finally revel in.
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
WATCHES 5 4PP_v2.indd 47
47
05/08/2018 19:31
SKELETON & OPENWORK
Chanel
BOY.FRIEND SQUELETTE: POA The couture house is a serious watch manufacture, too. Its latest movement, specially designed for the Boy.Friend, helps you see what drives the watch and feels more feminine than most modern skeleton designs. 173 New Bond Street, W1 chanel.com
Bulgari
LUCEA SKELETON: £25,500
The lovely Lucea features the scrambled but readable letters of the brand’s logo layered over a finely cut skeleton dial with red hands that match the ruby crown. Playful and sophisticated, it’s a feat of topquality watchmaking. 168 New Bond Street, W1 bulgari.com
Audemars Piguet
MILLENARY FROSTED GOLD: £44,700
A stunning variant of the distinctive elongated oval model, the open movement means you can watch the two mesmerising dial discs of white opal at work. A hammered gold case that sparkles like frost and a complex Polish weave bracelet are the finishing touches. 173 New Bond Street, W1 audemarspiguet.com
SPORTS ELEGANCE
Cartier
PANTHÈRE TRIPLE LOOP: £31,000
As much a piece of jewellery as a watch, its flexible and sinuous gold bracelet links to a quartz-powered mini version of the 1980s Panthère, itself derived from the aviationinspired men’s Santos with its riveted bezel. 175-177 New Bond Street, W1 cartier.co.uk
48
WATCHES 5 4PP_v2.indd 48
Patek Philippe
CHRONOGRAPH 7150: £64,240
The image of sporting elegance, it features a slender, hand-wound chrono movement and vintage-inspired details including a perimeter pulsometer rule, softly slanted Breguet numerals and ornate hands. 12 New Bond Street, W1 patek.com
Chopard
HAPPY SPORT: £16,800
The 25th anniversary of this groundbreaking collection brings back the scarce oval model, elegant with seven freefloating diamonds and a diamond bezel – you can even swim while wearing it. 15 Clifford Street, W1 chopard.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
05/08/2018 19:33
DIAMONDS & ASTROLOGY
Omega
TRÉSOR: £6,400
The new model, with its distinctive large numerals, justifies a quartz movement as an occasional-wear evening watch. Slender and elegant, the dressiest, limited-edition versions feature diamond baguettes and brilliants on shimmering white mother-of-pearl. 260 Regent Street, W1 omega.com
Van Cleef & Arpels
PLANÉTARIUM LADIES’: £215,500
This is a feat of high craft as well as watchmaking. Three planets on concentric rings of sparkly aventurine rotate around the engraved gold sun in real time and a diamond moon circles the earth while a white gold comet shows time. 9 New Bond Street, W1 vancleefarpels.com
Dior
VIII MONTAIGNE CLAIR DE LUNE: POA
This is designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s mysterious evocation of the moon in watch form. It features tiny gold threads that are microscopically welded to the dial to create an impressionistic lunar landscape while scattered diamonds reflect the stars beyond. 160-162 New Bond Street, W1 dior.com
RAINBOW
Harry Winston PREMIER CANDY: POA
This simple style is all about the gem setting. Rare aqua-blue Paraíba tourmalines, orange spessartite garnets, red spinels, pink and yellow sapphires and green tsavorite garnets mix with diamonds like precious hundreds and thousands, extending to the bezel and signature triple lugs. 171 New Bond Street, W1 harrywinston.com
Hublot
BIG BANG UNICO SAPPHIRE: £61,000
In this instance, sapphire refers to the whole transparent case and bezel, to which the brand has added an openwork dial and a clear composite strap for an exercise in pure light. 14 New Bond Street, W1 hublot.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
WATCHES 5 4PP_v2.indd 49
Rolex
RAINBOW DAYTONA: £71,100
The brand’s most iconic model gets a colourful makeover with a finely shaded rainbow of sapphire baguettes on the bezel and hour markers with diamonds on the lugs and pushers. 29 Old Bond Street, W1 rolex.com
49
05/08/2018 19:33
The Hydrator.
Reach for instant and intense hydration. Dr Sebagh Serum Repair immediately hydrates and plumps the skin whilst leaving it feeling firmer and tighter. Use this skin care legend on its own, or mix with any serum or moisturiser. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com
BEAUTY Setting the tone
& WELLNESS
Dior has answered the collective beauty industry call, joining Mac, EstĂŠe Lauder and Fenty Beauty by extending its colour inclusivity with 40 new foundation shades. Developed by Peter Philips, the creative director at Dior make-up, the new Backstage Face & Body Foundation (ÂŁ29) is an innovative formula that is waterproof, sweat-resistant and buildable with a natural, luminous finish. dior.com
BEAUTY OPENER_5 [JR SUBBED].indd 1
06/08/2018 10:32
Beauty Notes Pollution-fighting potions, plant-based skincare plus Chanel’s water-inspired collection Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
Sixth Sense
Cire Trudon’s latest candle, Six (£78), is an allegorical take on what many consider the sixth sense – the heart. With a floral scent of monoi vanilla, carnations and jasmine designed to take you on a nostalgic journey, Six is created from 100%-natural wax with a burn time of around 60 hours. The limited-edition candle comes in a chic white pot that is customisable with stickers portraying the different senses.
trudon.com
Seed of Life
Straight from the fields of Tuscany to your face and body, Seed to Skin is the new clean beauty brand to know. Created by organic farm and spa Borgo Santo Pietro Estate, ingredients used are 100% natural, sustainable and chosen for their healing properties.
Seed to Skin from £49, available at Liberty seed-to-skin.com
Shades of Summer
WATER WORKS Inspired by the reflections of water, Chanel has launched its Cruise beauty collection, Éclat et Transparence de Chanel. Curated by Lucia Pica, global creative makeup & colour designer, the range includes make-up with balmy textures, soft pastels and bronze hues, and the hero product; L’Eau Tan, a self tanning body mist and fragrance. chanel.com
52
BEAUTY NOTES sr.indd 52
Mane Attraction
Just in time for the summer holiday season, Byredo has released Triplé Gagnant, a collector’s edition of three miniature hair perfumes in a travel-friendly set. And fans of the minimalist Swedish brand rejoice: the first UK store will open in Lexington Street, Soho in September during LFW. byredo.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
07/08/2018 23:29
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
e Power of Plants
Featuring 100 cold-pressed plant oils, beauty honeys and ionized cleansing waters, the latest collection from cult Parisian beauty institution L’Officine Universelle Buly 1803 is now available at its concept store in Selfridges. e niche brand, a revival of the historic apothecary originally founded by Jean-Vincent Bully in 1803, takes inspiration from 19th-century beauty secrets and ancient recipes based on natural ingredients. selfridges.com; buly1803.com
Skincare
Pollution Solutions
With pollution levels at an all-time high in London – legal limits were reached only a month into 2018 – stepping outside can sometimes feel daunting. Air pollution has a damaging effect on skin, causing increased sebum production, a weakened defensive barrier and dehydration, all of which lead to a dull and dry complexion that is more prone to ageing. Beauty brands are now answering our call for help with an array of pollution-fighting formulas, packed full of antioxidants, anti-inflammatories and hydrators to protect skin. Clinique’s new Dramatically Different™ Hydrating Jelly Anti-Pollution (£31) uses ingredients such as barley to form a protective barrier around skin. Meanwhile, leading facialist Lisa Franklin has launched a range of anti-pollution products designed to shield skin from pollutants and decrease their ageing effect. Try the Anti-Pollution Cleanser (£60) and the Pollution Defence Cream (£105), which hydrate, repair and protect.
Making Scents
Founder of Experimental Perfume Club, perfumer Emmanuelle Moeglin has launched Layers, a new perfume concept found exclusively at Liberty. A simplified DIY version of the brand’s ‘scent lab’ studio in Broadway Market – which offers consultations and workshops where you can create your own bespoke concoctions – the set allows you to create your own unique perfume from the comfort of home. Consisting of three scents – Bergamot, Jasmine and Sandalwood – each layer represents a top, middle and base note. Finding your signature scent has never been so easy. Layers 01 Blending Collection, £90; liberty.co.uk; experimentalperfumeclub.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
BEAUTY NOTES sr.indd 53
Rest of the best FROM TOP LEFT: CHANTECAILE Anti-Pollution Finishing Essence, £112, REN Anti-Pollution Mist, £24, CHANEL D-Pollution Essentiel Protection Mist, £48, THIS WORKS In Transit Pollution Shield Spray, £26
53
07/08/2018 23:25
BEAUTY & WELLNESS THE GLOW STICK TOM FORD
Shade And Illuminate Glow Stick in Sunstruck, £42
THE BRONZER BECCA
BECCA x Chrissy Teigen Endless Bronze & Glow, £30
Get the
GLOW
MAKE SUMMER LAST WITH THESE ILLUMINATING ESSENTIALS Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
THE VITAMIN C RANGE NATURA BISSÉ
THE SELF-TAN DROPS TAN-LUXE
The Body Illuminating Self-Tan Drops, £42
The C+C Vitamin Line, From £37
THE LIPSTICK TOM FORD
Boys & Girls Lipstick in Katherine, £29
THE SKIN ELIXIR DR SEBAGH
THE SPF SPRAY DIOR
Platinum Gold Elixir, (4 x 10ml), £395
Protective Milky Mist Sublime Glow SPF 30, £29.50
THE BODY OIL ESTÉE LAUDER
Bronze Goddess Hair and Body Shimmer Oil, £38
THE EYESHADOW CHARLOTTE TILBURY
Eyes To Mesmerise Cream Eyeshadow In Oyster Gold, £22
THE ILLUMINATOR LA MER The Bronzing Powder, £70
THE SELF-TAN CHANEL
LETTE LIGHTER PA THE HIGH BECCA
L’Eau Tan Self-Tanning Body Mist, £48
54
GET THE GLOW sr.indd 54
lette, £35 Be A Light Pa
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
07/08/2018 23:48
The Exfoliator.
Discover the iconic skin brightening and smoothing treatment loved by beauty insiders. Deep Exfoliating Mask banishes dullness, leaving skin glowing, whilst boosting cellular renewal. Instantly, skin looks smoother and more radiant. The highly concentrated exfoliating formula also helps to combat pigmentation, prevent breakouts and makes the perfect pre-party beauty boost. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com
Face A
B
O
U
T
This season it's all about the glow. Make-up artist Nikki Wolff, shines a light on the key trends and glossiest looks Photography ARVED COLVIN-SMITH
PRETTY PASTELS
“This look is a wearable take on the current trend of ‘blush draping’ (contouring with blush) as seen all over this season’s catwalks. Prep the skin with CLINIQUE Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator, £36, and CLINIQUE Even Better Glow Light Reflecting Makeup, £28. Using a brush in circular motions, apply a veil of blush high on the cheekbone. I used CLINIQUE Pop Matte Lip Colour + Primer in Ruby Pop, £17, mixed with CLINIQUE Chubby Stick Cheek Colour Balm in Robust Rhubarb, £20, as a base for cheek colour, and TOM FORD Sheer Cheek Duo in Exotica Flora, £59, to intensify the tone. I also used the Cheek Duo as an eyeshadow for this look – don’t be afraid to use products in unexpected places as lots of formulas are multi-purpose.” REST OF THE KIT CLINIQUE Beyond Perfecting Super Concealer Camouflage+24-Hour Wear, £28; CLINIQUE Moisture Surge Face Spray, £22.50; CLINIQUE Just Browsing Brush-On Styling Mousse in Soft Brown, £18; SMASHBOX Full Exposure Mascara, £20; MAC In Extreme Dimension Lash Mascara, £16.50; MAC Plenty Of Pout Plumping Lipstick in Nicer Than Nice, £17.50
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 56
08/08/2018 02:04
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 57
08/08/2018 02:04
BRONZE AMBITION
“A bronzed, sun-kissed glow is easy to achieve – even without a tan. Use a brush to buff product into the skin, layer by layer, to keep application light. First, I used ESTÉE LAUDER Perfectionist Wrinkle Lifting/Firming Serum, £60, to create a smooth base, followed by a light layer of ESTÉE LAUDER Double Wear Light Foundation, £33.50, in a slightly warmer shade than the natural skintone. For a natural highlight, I followed with ESTÉE LAUDER Perfectionist Youth Infusing Brightening Serum + Concealer, £29 – this really brightens the high points of the face. Accent the eyes by mixing a little gold pigment and eye gloss together and smooth across lids. For bronzed glossiness on the body, use ESTÉE LAUDER Bronze Goddess Hair & Body Shimmer Oil, £38.” REST OF THE KIT MAC Pigment in Old Gold, £16.50; MAC Studio Eye Gloss, £16.50; ESTÉE LAUDER Brow Now Volumising Brow Tint in Light Brunette, £19; ESTÉE LAUDER Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Desirable, £27 FASHION: MARYSIA Mott swimming costume, £295, brownsfashion.com; AWON GOLDING Chickory sinamay hat, £465, awongolding.com; MARIA TASH Gold hoop earring, £100, libertylondon.com
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 58
08/08/2018 02:05
ALL NATURAL
“Fresh, glowing skin with a scattering of freckles is a major look this season. First, make sure your skin is well moisturised. I used LA MER The Moisturizing Soft Lotion, £185. Then, create a beautiful, even base with LA MER The Soft Fluid Long Wear Foundation, £90, covering any under-eye shadows with LA MER The Concealer, £60. Apply cream blush for a naturally flushed, youthful look and set the T-zone with a light dusting of LA MER The Powder, £70. Next, fake the freckles – eyebrow pencils are best for this. I used a lighter shade first with MAC Eye Brows Styler in Lingering, £15.50, covering the skin in a generous amount of little dots, using a finger to tap over the application to soften them. I then used a darker, warmer shade with MAC Eye Brows Styler in Spiked, £15.50, to add a few more, concentrating on the bridge of the nose. The slight variation in colour really helps to keep the freckles looking natural.” REST OF THE KIT BECCA Hydra-Mist Set & Refresh Powder, £32; CLINIQUE True Bronze Pressed Powder Bronzer, £24.50; TOM FORD Brow Sculptor in Taupe, £40; BOBBI BROWN Pot Rouge For Lips And Cheeks in Rose, £22; CLINIQUE Chubby Stick Sculpting Highlight in Hefty Highlight, £20; BOBBI BROWN Luxe Lip Color in Bitten Peach, £27; LA MER The Lip Balm, £50 FASHION: DE BEERS Micropave white gold hoop earrings, £1,300, debeers.co.uk; MARIA TASH Gold hoop earring, £100, libertylondon.com; ILEANA MAKRI Black diamond rings, £1,015 each, ileanamakri.com
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 59
08/08/2018 02:05
STRONG BROWS
“Strong, full, textured brows are flattering on everyone and really help to frame a face. Brush brows up using BOBBI BROWN Waterproof Brow Shaper, £19, to add hold and texture, then use BOBBI BROWN Perfectly Defined Long-Wear Brow Pencil, £30, to draw fine hair-like strokes going upwards in any gaps you see to add volume and definition. Add a smoky brown eye with lots of mascara, plus a nude lip for extra glamour.” REST OF THE KIT BECCA Backlight Priming Filter, £28; BOBBI BROWN Skin Foundation SPF 15, £34; TOM FORD Traceless Foundation, £66; LA MER The Concealer, £60; BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed in Opal, £32; TOM FORD Cream Colour For Eyes in Burnished Gold, £30; MAC Eye Kohl in Costa Riche, £15; BOBBI BROWN Smokey Eye Mascara, £24.50; MAC Pro Longwear Lip Pencil in Cultured, £15.50; BOBBI BROWN Lip Colour in Beige, £24; TOM FORD Nail Polish In Toasted Sugar, £29 FASHION: ILLESTEVA Marianne cats-eye sunglasses, £170, net-a-porter.com; DE BEERS Micropave white gold hoop earrings, £1,300, debeers.co.uk; DE BEERS Aura diamond stud earrings, £1,875, debeers.co.uk
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 60
08/08/2018 02:05
BLOCK COLOUR
“This season's blue eyeshadow trend is bold and graphic. With the MAC 266S Small Angle brush, £16.50, I used MAC Chromaline in High-Def Cyan, £17, to create this solid colour. First, sketch out the desired shape, then fill in the centre. Starting smaller than you intend to go with your shape allows for mistakes and it helps to go back and forth between both eyes simultaneously to keep symmetry. I kept the skin fresh and glowy, applying BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid Highlighter in Moonstone, £34, on the high points of the face. For an extra polished-looking glow, I brushed a powder highlighter – BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed Highlighter in Moonstone, £32 – on top of the liquid highlighter. The neutral tones on the face complement a strong eye look perfectly and keep it looking clean.” REST OF THE KIT BOBBI BROWN Vitamin Enriched Face Base, £43; BOBBI BROWN Primer Plus Radiance SPF 35, £24; LA MER The Soft Fluid Long Wear Foundation, £90; LA MER The Concealer, £60; MAC Pro Longwear Fluidline in Blacktrack, £17; MAC In Extreme Dimension Lash Mascara, £20; MAC Fluidline Brow Gelcreme in Ash Blonde, £17.50; MAC Eye Kohl in Fascinating, £15; SMASHBOX Brow Tech To Go in Taupe, £21; BECCA Hydra-Mist Set & Refresh Powder, £32; TOM FORD Ultra Shine Lip Gloss in Tawny Pink, £36 FASHION: HERMES Head scarf, £330, hermes.com; ACK Ana Due bikini, £180, brownsfashion.com; MESSIKA Move Romane pavé diamond earrings, £9,450, selfridges.com
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 61
08/08/2018 02:05
SIXTIES REDUX
“The 60s Mod look was given a 2018 spin on this season’s catwalks. Update the classic cat-eye by first sketching out a few small lines under the bottom lash line (to replicate the shadow that big lashes would give) with TOM FORD Private Shadow in Nightcast, £29. Fill in the space between the lines with TOM FORD Eye Kohl Intense in White Smoke, £27. Line along the top lash line with TOM FORD Eye Defining Pen, £45. Create Twiggy style lashes with three coats of TOM FORD Extreme Mascara, £36, and add a set of fake lashes to top and bottom for extra drama. Finish with a pastel pink lip – I love TOM FORD Lip Color in Spanish Pink, £40.” REST OF THE KIT: BECCA Aqua Luminous Perfecting Foundation, £34; BECCA Aqua Luminous Perfecting Concealer, £21; BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Luminous Blush in Snapdragon, £24; SMASHBOX Photo Matte Eyes, £39.50; MAC 226S Small Angled Brush, £16.50; MAC 33 Lashes, £11.50; MAC Fluidline Brow Gelcreme in Ash Blonde, £17.50 FASHION: MIN WU Vinyl dress, price available upon request, 5minwu.com JESSICA MCCORMACK London Eye sapphire and diamond hoop earrings, £33,600, jessicamccormack.com
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 62
08/08/2018 02:06
GLASS SKIN
“This trend from Korea is all about luminous glowing skin, and it all starts with great skincare. Prep with BECCA Skin Love Glow Elixir, £34, to help brighten and nourish the face, and BECCA First Light Priming Filter, £28, which gives a soft focus gleam. For a flawless, dewy base, apply BECCA Aqua Luminous Perfecting Foundation, £34, with a brush. To highlight, apply BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid in Pearl, £34, to all high points of the face, then follow with BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed Highlighter in Pearl, £34, for a really amped-up glow. Reflective skin is perfectly complemented by a statement matte red lip.” REST OF THE KIT: MAC In Extreme Dimension Lash, £20; MAC Pro Longwear Eye Liner In Rich Experience, £16.50; BOBBI BROWN Perfectly Defined Long-Wear Brow Pencil, £30; SMASHBOX Always On Liquid Lipstick in Bawse, £19 FASHION: WOLFORD Sheer mesh body suit, £120, selfridges.com MARIA TASH Gold hoop earrings, from £100, libertylondon.com
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 63
08/08/2018 02:06
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 64
08/08/2018 02:06
DISCO DAZE
“Modern, sophisticated and surprisingly wearable, glitter has had a makeover this season. First, apply SMASHBOX Photo Finish 24-Hour Shadow Primer, £20, over the eyelids and apply SMASHBOX Photo Edit Eye Shadow Glitter Trio in Total Scene, £20, as a base all over lids, then with a fingertip, press on MAC 3D Platinum Glitter £16.50, focusing on the centre of eyelids. To intensify the sparkle, press the glitter into the eyelids with your fingertip or apply it with a slightly wet brush.” REST OF THE KIT: SMASHBOX Photo Finish Foundation Primer Radiance, £30; SMASHBOX Studio Skin 15 Hour Wear Hydrating Foundation, £29.50; SMASHBOX Studio Skin 24-Hour Waterproof Concealer, £20; SMASHBOX Brow Tech To Go in Taupe, £21; SMASHBOX Photo Edit Eye Shadow Glitter Trio in Total Scene, £20; SMASHBOX Super Fan Mascara, £17.50; SMASHBOX Be Legendary Lipstick In Honey, £17.50; TOM FORD Nail Polish In Scarlet Chinois, £29; FASHION: GEORGIA HARDINGE Palm metallic blazer, £390, georginahardinge.com; JESSICA MCCORMACK Tattoo diamond stud earrings, £17,600; Star diamond ring, £4,600, jessicamccormack.com
PHOTOGRAPHY Arved Colvin-Smith MAKE UP Nikki Wolff HAIR STYLIST Patrick Wilson using Bumble & Bumble STYLIST Sara Dunn NAILS Sharon Gritton MODEL Klaudia K at Storm
BEAUTY SHOOT sr.indd 65
08/08/2018 02:06
SUMMER SAVIOURS
From restorative pampering to high-tech innovations, we take a look at the best beauty treatments in the city By CHARLOTTE ADSETT
THE HEALTH MOT HEALTH ASSESSMENT THE ORGANIC PHARMACY
Want to find out what’s really going on in your body? Designed to identify your weaknesses and strengths within a mere three minutes, The Organic Pharmacy’s BioEnergetic device scans the whole body looking at anything and everything from vitamin and mineral deficiencies to hormone inbalance, digestive disorders and stress. Whether you are looking to improve general health, have a specific health concern or are planning a pregnancy, this comprehensive assessment will leave you armed with new insights plus an easy-to-follow personalised homeopathic health plan tailored to your individual needs, covering diet, lifestyle adjustments, food intolerances and more. Health Assessment, £150 23 Great Marlborough Street, Soho, W1 theorganicpharmacy.com
THE FACIALS THE RED CARPET FACIAL
THE CLASSIC FACIAL
THE DETOX FACIAL
Following the recent refurbishment of the spa at The Savoy, skincare brand Natura Bissé has extended its pioneering facial menu. Billed as a 'youth elixir' for stressed-out skin, the Diamond Life Infusion facial uses the brands power products to improve skin texture, redefine contours and fade expression lines - there is a very good reason this a red-carpet beauty treatment for many A-list actresses. For a truly out-of-this-world experience, try the Mindful Touch 3D virtual reality headset (pictured above) that plays calming images and music while your therapist gently massages your hands, feet and head, and leads you into a guided meditation. Pure bliss.
If you are looking for a real skincare treat, be sure to book a Signature Treatment at the Dr Sebagh clinic with lead facialist Tine Hagelquist. Using Dr Sebagh’s best-selling skin care range, this magic-fingered therapist utilises her tried-and-tested facial techniques, including gentle, but powerful lymphatic drainage for detoxification and an intense massage to rid your jaw of tension and lift and firm the muscles of the face. You are left with glowing, radiant skin that feels younger and smoother. Tine is also a great source of information about products, nutrition and overall wellbeing, so don't be afraid to pick her brilliant beauty brain for tips.
Devotees of Skinwork often claim it’s the treatment that finally sorted out their skin, and we can see why. Famous for using a Hannibal Lecter-esque leather galvanic face mask that pulses the face with galvanic currents to firm and lift skin as well as stimulate cell renewal – Skinwork’s treatments gives seriously impressive results. The Detox Facial is a city dwellers must-try: 85 minutes of deep, congestionclearing cleansing, followed by an antioxidant infusion to stimulate collagen production, plus a mandellic acid peel for deep exfoliation and an anti-bac pore extraction all topped off with a tensionrelease neck, shoulder massage. We guarantee you’ll leave floating on air.
Diamond Life Infusion, £185 The Savoy, Strand, WC2 fairmont.com/savoy-london
Signature Facial, £120 25 Wimpole Street, Marylebone, W1 drsebagh.com
Detox Facial, £215 6-10 Lexington Street, Soho, W1 alexeagle.co.uk
NATURA BISSÉ AT THE SAVOY
66
SUMMER TREATMENTS sr 2.indd 66
DR SEBAGH
SKINWORK AT ALEX EAGLE
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
08/08/2018 14:24
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
LIGHT THERAPY FOR THE FACE
DERMALUX AT SARAH SHAH Enjoy mood-boosting benefits and so much more with Dermalux’s light therapy treatment which works by delivering therapeutic levels of red, blue and nearinfrared light to naturally stimulate cell regeneration by up to 200%. Utilising the latest generation Light Emitting Diode (LED) technology, Dermalux® LED Phototherapy is clinically proven for the treatment of a wide range of skin concerns; to reduce the visible signs of ageing, pigmentation and environmental damage and resolve inflammatory skin conditions such as acne and rosacea. Results last for four-six weeks, but a course of around 10 sessions will ensure a major difference – it’s perfectly safe to enjoy two to three sessions a week to speed up results. Dermalux LED Phototherapy, £70 33-34 Bury Street, Aldgate, EC3 artistryclinic.co.uk
FOR THE BODY
THE COLLAGEN BED AT THE WELLNESS CLINIC AT HARRODS The latest state-of-the-art innovation in wellness has just landed at the Harrod's Wellness Clinic and is the first of its kind in London. The Collagen bed (pictured left) is covered in more than 18,000 LEDs that emit a combination of nearinfrared and deep red light, all completely safe for any skin type. During the 30-minute procedure, red light waves trigger healing responses in the body, which increase nutrient flow to cells, fuel collagen production and also help alleviate conditions such as muscular pain and skin conditions like psoriasis and eczema. A course of six sessions promises firmer skin with improved elasticity and reduced wrinkles, age spots and fine lines. Not too bad for 30 minutes in bed. The Collagen Bed – Red Light Body Rejuvenation, £200 Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1 harrods.com
THE VITAMIN DRIP THE BODY BOOST THE ELIXIR CLINIC
For anyone burnt-out, feeling under the weather or just suffering from the post-holiday blues, The Elixir Clinic offers an instant boost via IV therapy and vitamin infusions. With 17 treatments on the menu — each with a different cocktail of vitamins, antioxidants and minerals — ailments such hangovers, colds and jet-lag are fixed in 45 minutes. After a consultation, we opted for the VIP Elixir – an infusion of 16 essential nutrients to counteract stress. Unless you are needle phobic, the experience is fairly pleasant and relaxing, although you do feel spaced out as the drip begins to work. That night we enjoyed the deepest night’s sleep in weeks, with much brighter eyes and skin plus increased energy that lasted for weeks. VIP Elixir Drip, £407 75 Wimpole Street, Marylebone, W1 theelixirclinic.com
HANDS AND FEET THE ONE-STOP SHOP
THE LAST-MINUTE FIX
THE MEDICAL PEDICURE
Just off Regent Street, DryBy is a blow-dry bar and nail salon beloved by beauty editors. Signature services include the deep pedicure, inspired by the spas of Budapest, and IBX – a strengthening treatment for brittle nails. With chic interiors, prosecco by the glass and wide tables ideal for catching up with girlfriends, this the perfect pitstop.
A new arrival to Fitzrovia, the friendly team behind The Townhouse aim to redefine the nail salon experience, with non-toxic products, a carefully curated colour range and grown-up nail art. Bookings can be made online in seconds, making it perfect for when you’re in that last-minute hurry.
Looking for a complete overhaul for your neglected feet? Margaret Dabbs’ Medical Pedicure is performed by a qualified podiatrist, who tackles ingrowing toenails, cracked heels and hard skin with surgical precision, and buffs and polishes feet until they look and feel brand new. We recommend Dabbs’ award-winning Fabulous Feet products containing emu oil, to keep your feet ship-shape at home.
Deep Pedicure, £125 74 Mortimer Street, Fitzrovia, W1 dryby.co.uk
Manicure, £35; pedicure, £49 88 Great Portland Street, Fitzrovia, W1 mytownhouse.co.uk
The Medical Pedicure, from £85 At Liberty, Notting Hill and Marylebone. margaretdabbs.co.uk
DRYBY
THE TOWNHOUSE
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
SUMMER TREATMENTS sr 2.indd 67
MARGARET DABBS
67
08/08/2018 14:24
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
TheNew
Wave
An influx of innovative, multitasking hair salons has arrived – and they have all your beauty needs covered under one roof Words REBECCA FEARN
A
visit to a hair salon often treads a fine line between self-care and obligation. On one hand, having your hair cut and coloured can feel like an indulgence and an opportunity to escape the chaos of everyday life. On the flip side, taking time out of a busy schedule for an appointment during which little else can be done, sometimes feels like an inconvenience. Luckily, a new wave of super salons – ushered in by spaces such as Hershesons’ new flagship store on Berners Street – are adapting to meet the needs of busy, time-strapped Londoners who long for something different. With an impressive clientele, Instagram-friendly interiors and a holistic treatment offering, visiting the salon has become an experience rather than a chore. Moving from its home in Conduit Street, Hershesons’ new 5,000 square foot space opened its doors in May of this year. Leading the charge, this destination acts as a one-stop-shop for all your beauty needs rather than a one-dimensional hair salon. With world-class hair stylists, nails by DryBy, skin treatments by Sunday Riley and Dr Barbara Sturm, brows by Suman Brows, waxing by The Ministry of Waxing and light therapy by The Light Salon, it’s quickly become a true beauty force that’s risen to the modern-day multitasking challenge. “The template salon model is dead,” says creative director Luke Hersheson. “Salons have become predictable, boring and not in-tune with how we live our lives now. The Hershesons’ approach to any project is to tear up the rule book and start again – and that’s exactly what we’ve done with our flagship.” The new space – occupying one seemingly never-ending floor – feels warm and welcoming thanks to an eclectic mix of furniture styles. The idea is for the client to feel at home in this space, able to pop by for a quick appointment while working on their laptop or to spend the day hopping from service to service, enjoying the café, which serves delicious made-toorder plates and an array of coffees and fresh juices, in-between appointments. “This is not a traditional salon – it’s a beauty space, a work space and a social space wrapped into one,” says Hersheson. “Customers can pick and mix the services they want according to their needs and their timeframe.” This vision is further solidified by the salon’s 8am-8pm opening hours, which allow for greater flexibility.
68
HAIR FEATURE.indd 68
HERSHESONS
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
08/08/2018 10:06
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
HAIR FEATURE.indd 69
69
08/08/2018 10:07
NICOLA CLARKE AT JOHN FRIEDA
While Hershesons is spear-heading this new movement, it’s not the only brand to tap into the multi-service trend. Nicola Clarke, colourist to many of Hollywood’s most notable blondes (from Cate Blanchett to Madonna) acknowledges the importance of evolving to fit the customer’s ever-changing needs with the opening of Nicola Clarke for John Frieda. “Beauty lovers want a one-stopshop,” she says of the multi-concept store. “People want everything instantly. A lot of our customers will get a mani and or a pedi while they have their hair done so they are groomed and ready to go.” Clarke handpicked her stylists to create an elite team and to ensure every client’s need is met, be it in cutting, colouring or styling. Specially curated summer styles include two new blowdries: Get A Grip, which uses grips to accessorise; and The Balaeric, which boosts volume for a beachy finish. The space itself has an industrial chic vibe with polished concrete floors, chrome shelving and soft leather seats featuring across both of its two floors. Clients are welcome to use their time in the treatment chair to either relax or work as needed; indeed many use a break out area on the ground floor as a work station while their colour develops. “The salon has developed a real personality,” says Clarke. “The interiors bring a fresh hair salon experience that is relaxed yet modern – it has a real buzz about it.” Multitasking is not the only trend salons are adapting to in this new era of hairdressing and beauty. Eco-conscious Ralph & Rice in Shoreditch is proving that premium, quality services can be provided without a great cost to the environment, making it the ideal choice for those concerned with sustainability. “We want customers to remember that by making small changes like going
70
HAIR FEATURE.indd 70
to a salon that has eco-friendly practices, you can make a difference,” explains Anita Rice, who co-founded the salon with Dan Ralph. Their passion for and dedication to the environment runs throughout Ralph & Rice. Eco taps save water and waffle print towels are made from biodegradable recycled paper and while Davines is the ethical haircare range of choice. Interior fixtures are designed from tree-friendly cork, while furniture, paintings and ceramics are by local makers, and plants are sourced from the nearby Columbia Road Flower Market. It’s a small space with a big message, one that has been met with such positive feedback since opening last year that Rice is opening a second salon, Buller & Rice (co-founded with her long-term friend and fellow stylist Stephen Buller) in Newington Green this August. With a recycling station and product re-fill bar, the newest salon will continue to push the message of sustainability. For anyone who follows a plant-based lifestyle that extends to their tresses, there’s the newly launched botanical hair salon at Hari’s flagship on the Fulham Road. Meeting the demands of clients who desire natural, organic dyes and services (about 25 per cent, says founder Hari Salem), the salon offers an array of herbal hair treatments and vegan colour boosters, as well as the traditional chemical formulas. Inside Hari’s plant-filled, art deco-esque interior, you’ll discover iPads at each station, a varied menu of juices and superfood salads, and most intriguingly, a video chat service that can be used prior to in-salon appointments to determine a client’s needs – an innovative idea for the time-poor among us. The original super salon, Josh Wood Atelier in Notting Hill has been a favourite among the glossy west London set and celebrities since its launch in 2011 – that’s because its constantly ahead of colour trends (from balayage to keratin treatments), while ensuring exclusivity. Whether you are opting for a major change or a simple update, the atelier, which also offers manicures, pedicures and brows, is determined to provide the best team for each person. Wood, the go-to colourist for Elle Macpherson, Kylie Minogue and January Jones, says: “For me, this is about trying to blend salon and session hairstylists together for the first time, as traditionally the two are clearly divided – but there are shared skills that can really benefit clients.” Whatever your lifestyle choices or schedule restraints, there’s now a destination to suit your needs thanks to this fresh wave of super salons at the helm of the beauty industry –long live this new era. RALPH & RICE
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
08/08/2018 10:07
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
The SUPER Salons HERSHESONS
29-32 Berners Street, Fitzrovia, W1 Known For: Being a multitasking space and a one-stop beauty shop. Tired of having to run around town for your beauty appointments? Spend an afternoon at the impressive new Hershesons store, which boasts world-class hair services, nails by DryBy, skin treatments by Sunday Riley and more. If you can’t manage to book an appointment with Luke himself, visit Jordan for perfect cuts and even better blow dries. hershesons.com
NICOLA CLARKE AT JOHN FRIEDA
58-59 Margaret Street, Fitzrovia, W1 Known For: Its celebrity clientele and chic interiors. You’re safe in the hands of colourists at Nicola Clarke for John Frieda. Known for being the Queen of blondes and with clients such as Kate Moss and Madonna, Nicola has shaped her elite team with the modern woman in mind. Book in to see the uber-cool Shannon if you’re looking for a vibrant update. nicolaclarkeatjohnfrieda.com
JOSH WOOD ATELIER
JOSH WOOD ATELIER
6 Lansdowne Mews, Fitzrovia, W1 Known For: Being the everevolving colour experts. A longstanding favourite, Josh Wood Atelier is constantly evolving to meet their customers’ needs, with an incomparable team of colourists to cater to all. Home to the glossiest girls in West London – along with some of the elite A-list – Josh Wood’s vision has grown to astounding proportions. Book in to see Josh himself, or alternatively, Melanie Smith and Sibi Bolan are the experts for a seasonal colour switch-up. joshwoodcolour.com
HARI’S FULHAM ROAD
HARI'S FULHAM ROAD
88 Fulham Road, Kensington, SW3 Known For: Its botanical-based approach to colour. Vegan beauty fans will rejoice in Hari’s newly-launched salon which uses naturally-derived, organic dyes and treatments. The botanical-inspired interiors and irresistible superfood salad menu make the experience all the more enjoyable. Make use of the innovative hotline hair service and dial in to speak to a stylist (we recommend Rebecca) on video chat before your appointment. harissalon.com
RALPH & RICE
12 Cheshire Street, Shoreditch, E2 Known For: Its dedication to eco-friendliness. This charming east London salon is perfect for those concerned with sustainability. With beautiful interiors and ethically-sourced resources, Ralph & Rice is leading the way for a new wave of sustainability in beauty. Book in for resultsdriven quality with a conscience and see Anita to discover more about her passion project and upcoming second salon, opening in August 2018. ralphandrice.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
HAIR FEATURE.indd 71
NICOLA CLARKE AT JOHN FRIEDA
71
08/08/2018 10:14
CLINIQUE DPS MARCH 18.indd 2
17/04/2018 17:07
CLINIQUE DPS MARCH 18.indd 3
17/04/2018 17:08
Alessandra MY BEAUTY
EDIT
STEINHERR From power products and hero haircare to her favourite facialists, the beauty director and social media influencer shares her little black book As told to CHARLOTTE ADSETT
MY DAILY SKINCARE
the skin and prevents moisture loss, and DR SEBAGH Rose de Vie Serum Delicat, £129, smells gorgeous and is super nourishing. I only use a little bit and press it into the skin. In the colder weather, I’m big fan of CRÈME DE LA MER, Moisturizing Cream, £120 – a lot of people think it’s too heavy, but for me, it works.
I am truly passionate about skincare. I was taught by my grandma at a very young age to look after my skin well – I think that as you get older, you get the skin you deserve. My regime now is super edited and I’m really consistent, which is the key. Skincare can be so confusing, there’s just so much information and so many different products out there, but I believe in keeping it simple, being intuitive and listening to what your skin needs. Build a skincare wardrobe and switch up your products according to what feels right for you.
MY SUNDAY FACIAL
MORNING ROUTINE In the hot weather, I cleanse with iS Clinical Cleansing Complex,, £35, a foaming wash that rinses off clean and works for so many different skin types. I also like ORGANIC PHARMACY Rose Facial Cleansing Gel,, £49 – it’s really gentle and doesn’t dry out my dehydrated skin. COLLOSOL Eau de Lait, £15.50, is my wonder product. I soak a cotton pad with it and apply it all over my face – it literally brings my face to life and makes my skin so soft. I’m a huge hyaluronic acid fan – I have so many favourites. At the moment I really like TEOXANE RHA Serum, £72.49, and SKINCEUTICALS H.A Intensifier, £85. I always use an eye cream – I don’t have any wrinkles as I keep the area plump and hydrated. I really rate the reformulated ESTÉE LAUDER Advanced Night Repair Eye Synchronized Complex II, £43. It’s a gel texture, which I like, as creams can make your eyes puffy. In the heat I like a very light moisturiser that is super hydrating; I’m currently using ALUMIERMD HydraLight Moisturizer (only available at professional salons). Every morning without fail I’ll add a separate SPF on top – TOM FORD Face Protect Broad Spectrum SPF 50, £58, makes your skin so glowy. When I’m not wearing make-up, I’ll just use HELIOCARE Gelcream Colour SPF 50, £25.49, for a bronzed look.
I’ve had a Sunday night skincare routine since I was a teenager. It was a basic cleanse and scrub back then, but it was a regular ritual where I would pamper myself. It’s so important to me now, not just to look after my skin, but also to take time out and put myself first. I create content for Instagram (@alexsteinherr) to show my followers what I’m using. On Sundays, I take more time and ask, ‘What does my skin need?’. I do a more involved and prescriptive routine, extra exfoliation, maybe a massage with a jade roller and, of course, a mask. I start with a gentle peel like DR. DENNIS GROSS SKINCARE Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel Packettes, from £16.50, to exfoliate, then I use a mask; I like LANCER Lift & Plump Sheet Mask with Vegan Stem Cell Complex Complex, £29 – you can feel the serum quenching your skin with moisture. DERMALOGICA Age Smart MultiVitamin Power Recovery Masque Masque, £42, is my absolute go-to whenever I feel I haven’t slept enough or I’m stressed; it’s an instant pick-me-up. I’m a big fan of SARAH CHAPMAN Skinesis 3D Moisture Infusion Mask Mask, £43. The gel texture fits like a second skin and it gives amazing hydration. Before an event, I like CHARLOTTE TILBURY Goddess Skin Clay Mask, £38, for its brightening effect.
EVENING ROUTINE I remove my make-up with AVÈNE Micellar Lotion,, £13, and use LA ROCHE-POSAY Respectissime Waterproof Eye Make-Up Remover,, £11, on my eyes. I swear by ESTÉE LAUDER Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II,, £75. I’ve used it since my early 20s. It’s oil-free, full of antioxidants and my skin loves it – it’s my No.1 skin product. Then I will add an oil; INDIE LEE Squalane Facial Oil,, £30, is fantastic. It’s derived from olives and is the most beautiful emollient – it sinks into
74
ALESSANDRA STEINHERR.indd 74
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
07/08/2018 20:01
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
MAKE-UP I like a healthy bronzed look. As a base I really like HOURGLASS Seamless Foundation Stick, £42 – it’s a great all-in-one product you can buff out well for a gorgeous finish. The GIORGIO ARMANI Neo Nude Fusion Powder, £48, transforms into a veil-like liquid that’s glowy and warm. The new LAURA MERCIER Flawless Fusion Ultra-Longwear Concealer, £24, and BOBBI BROWN Instant Full Cover Concealer, £23, are both excellent for under-eye circles. LAURA MERCIER Secret Brightening Under Eye Powder, £22, sets concealer without settling into lines. I use BLINK Ultra Slim Brow Definer, £17, on my eyebrows. For bronzer, CHARLOTTE TILBURY Film Star Bronze and Glow, £49, is great for buildable colour and contour. On my eyes, I use brown eyeliner as it’s softer than black; either GIORGIO ARMANI Smooth Silk Eye Pencil No2, £20, or MAC Eye Kohl in Costa Riche, £15. Every day, I use MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Groundwork, £16.50, in the crease. The new CHARLOTTE TILBURY Bigger, Brighter Eyes Palette in Exagger-Eyes, £39, has some great eyeshadow colours. I like volumising mascaras with big brushes. My favourites are: IT COSMETICS Superhero Mascara, £19; GIVENCHY Noir Couture Black Satin Mascara, £26; CHARLOTTE TILBURY Legendary Lashes Volume 2 Black Vinyl, £25. I still wear the lipstick I created for MAC – Alessandra – as it’s my perfect colour. I’ve got about four left. MAC has a great new plumping lipstick range called Plenty Of Pout; I’m wearing So Swell, £18, right now. I love sheer textures so the CHANEL Les Beiges Healthy Glow Lip Balm, £31; GIORGIO ARMANI Neo Nude Ecstasy Balm in No.3, £25; and NARS Orgasm Afterglow Lip Balm, £22, are all make-up bag staples. I’m a big fan of face mists, especially in the summer. JURLIQUE Rosewater Balancing Mist, £18, is my favourite. I spray it on constantly to refresh my skin and make-up. I also really like SARAH CHAPMAN Liquid Facial D-stress Mist, £42, and the new CHANEL D-Pollution Essentiel Daily Protection Mist, £48.
SUPPLEMENTS I take a collagen supplement called COL-MINO, £45, which I buy from facialist Marie Reynolds – I’ve really noticed a difference in my skin. I’ve taken VIVISCAL Maximum Strength Woman, £49.95, for years for my hair. And I take vitamin D and K because I’m a sun avoider. I also take magnesium every day – I think most women are deficient.
HAIR When I do my hair myself at home, I tend to air-dry it to give it a break from heat-styling. I’m currently using COLOUR WOW Colour Security Shampoo, £16.50, and CHRISTOPHE ROBIN Volumising Conditioner with Rose Extracts, £30.50. I then spray in PHILIP B Weightless Conditioning Water, £38, tie my hair in a bun and I’m done. In between washes I use SAM MCKNIGHT Lazy Girl Dry Shampoo, £19, for great volume and texture.
BODY Body brushing is the easiest and most effective thing you can do for smooth skin – cellulite products just don’t work. I recently discovered a wonderful new organic range called SEED TO SKIN from Tuscany. I use The Balance pH Restorative Oil to Foam Body Cleanser, £56 – it smells like a herb garden. I exfoliate with CLARINS Exfoliating Body Scrub for Smooth Skin, £30; it’s grainy, not scratchy. After my shower I use ESPA Optimal Body TriSerum, £39. It’s a beautiful oil – the smell is divine and it leaves your skin feeling like silk. I’m very pale by nature but I secretly have a desire for JLo’s colouring. When I turned 30, I stopped going in the sun. I had a lot of sun damage from when I was younger, so now I’m a vampire and a big self-tanner. I use VITA LIBERATA pHenomenal 2-3 Well Tan Mousse, £37.50 – it’s the best self-tan I’ve tried.
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
ALESSANDRA STEINHERR.indd 75
75
07/08/2018 19:50
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
BEST FACIALISTS IN LONDON
FRAGRANCE I tend to wear fragrance according to the season. At the moment, a couple of new releases I love are GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ Bleu Turquoise Eau de Parfum, £240, and CHANEL Paris-Deauville Eau de Toilette Spray, £97. Some of my favourite summer scents I always go back to are JO MALONE LONDON Basil & Neroli Cologne, £90, as it’s so fresh and clean and LE LABO Santal 33, £180 – it’s a modern classic. TOM DAXON Iridium, £155, is similar to Molecule O1 but better. In autumn I switch to heavier scents – such as GUERLAIN Shalimar Eau de Parfum, £53. It’s an oriental with bergamot, jasmine and iris. CHANEL Coromandel, £274, is my ultimate. The warm amber, cut with incense and benzoin, gives it an addictive quality.
DIET FOR GLOWING SKIN 100%, I believe in eating as little sugar as possible – it’s terrible for the skin so I try to minimise my intake. Personally, cutting down on dairy has made a big difference; my skin is much clearer now. And I don’t drink alcohol, as it’s very dehydrating. My diet is rich in omegas; I eat fish most days and at least one avocado a day. I believe a lot of skin conditions are due to gut health. One habit that really helps the gut is to drink apple cider vinegar diluted in water throughout the day – I learnt that from my grandmother. I also have coconut kefir every morning, which helps with inflammation. For gut problems I swear by the VIVAMAYR Clinic in Austria (FIscherndorf 222, 8992 Altaussee); I go there once a year. There’s also a clinic in London (15 Harley Street, Marylebone, W1). They saved me when I had some serious issues after being on a course of antibiotics a few years back.
I recommend having a facial every month, every three weeks if you can. I rotate between my favourites depending on what I need. MARIE REYNOLDS is my skin guru, who I’ve been seeing for many years. She’s very intuitive and passionate about how internal problems affect skin health (Fortnum & Mason, 181, Piccadilly, St James’s, W1). SARAH CHAPMAN blends her Signature Bespoke Facial with hitech machines in a non-aggressive way for brilliant results (259, Pavilion Road, Chelsea, SW1). FACEGYM use kneading movements and non-evasive machines really lift and sculpt your face (52 King’s Road, Chelsea, SW3). MICHAELLA BOLDER, who comes to your house, is incredible. She does an inside-out facial and a full body lymphatic massage. Everything is so tight and defined afterwards – you look like you’ve had fillers (michellabolder.com). THE LIGHT SALON uses LED light therapy – you get a real glow and it’s a complete mood booster too (at Hershesons, Harvey Nichols and Cowshed spas; thelight-salon.com).
COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY I see Dr Anna Marie Olson at the DR SEBAGH LONDON CLINIC (25 Wimpole Street, Marylebone, W1) for an Ultra Lift, which uses warm pulses of ultrasound to tighten the skin and stimulate collagen production. Women have cancelled planned facelifts after this treatment. I won’t lie, it hurts, but the results are incredible – Dr Olsen is phenomenal. I also swear by mesotherapy with Dr Benjamin Kauffholz at the DR DRAY CLINIC (20 Canning Place, Kensington, W8). It’s a custom-made cocktail of vitamins, co-enzymes and hyaluronic acid that is injected into the top layers of the skin via micro-air gun injections. I see him every two months or when I have an important event for an instant boost.
MY LITTLE BLACK BOOK HAIR: Luke Hersheson at Hershesons, (29-32 Berners Street, W1) I’ve been going to him for years. BLOW DRY: David Gogoi at Hershesons You never look too done, which I like. HAIR COLOUR: Amy Fish at Larry King, (34 -36 Harrington Road, Kensington, SW7) Amy is a colour queen. NAILS: DryBy, (74 Mortimer Street, Fitzrovia, W1) They look after my manicures and pedicures, and I’ve created two collections with them dryby.com. HAIR REMOVAL: Nadiya Bekar Hill at FOUR London, (62 Conduit Street, Mayfair, W1). BROWS: I go to see Parul Doshi at Blink Brow Bar religiously to have my brows threaded. I started seeing her at Selfridges and then she moved to Harvey Nichols and then to John Lewis; I literally trek around London following her (blinkbrowbar.com). SELF TAN: I use an at-home service called InParlour.co.uk. Amanda Harrington does the most beautiful tans.
76
ALESSANDRA STEINHERR.indd 76
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
07/08/2018 19:50
INHIBIT HIGH DEFINITION TREATMENT Intensive Serum & Smoothing Parches
HARRODS · SPACE NK · NET-A-PORTER
Untitled-1 1
13/07/2018 11:52
SCENTS
OF STYLE GET YOUR SUMMER FIX WITH OUR EDIT OF THE LATEST FRAGRANCE RELEASES Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
CHANEL
LES EAUX DE CHANEL Eau de toilette, 125ml, £97
e fashion house’s first genderless collection of cologne-style fragrances, Les Eaux de Chanel takes its inspiration from travel destinations beloved by its founder. Developed by house perfumer Oliver Polge, the three fragrances — Paris-Biarritz, Paris-Deauville and Paris-Venise — were named a er some of Coco Chanel’s favourite holiday destinations. “ e three cities are really important in the history of Chanel,” says Polge. “ ey became a part of our identity.” His main source of inspiration came from the fresh citrus oils of Eau de Cologne. Deauville is woody-aromatic scent designed to recall “a walk through long grass”, with zesty notes of orange peel, basil leaf and patchouli. e salty sea air of the Basque coast inspired Biarritz, a fresh, aquatic scent with notes of tangerine, grapefruit and mandarin punctuated with white musk and vetiver. With Venise, the most feminine fragrance, Polge created a powdery, oriental scent with notes of neroli and ambery accords of vanilla and tonka bean.
chanel.com
78
PERFUME sr.indd 78
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
07/08/2018 22:50
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
CHRISTIAN DIOR BELLE DE JOUR
Eau de toilette, 125ml, £200
JO MALONE
One of the latest additions to the new Maison Christian Dior collection, this sensuous scent features pear and peach, with notes of rose and a hint of wood.
HONEYSUCKLE & DAVANA
Eau de toilette, 100ml, £90
Launching in September, the sunny floral fragrance captures the scent of honeysuckle alongside the sweet, herbaceous plant davana, moss and patchouli to evoke long hot days spent in the English countryside.
dior.com
TOM DAXON LACONIA
Eau de parfum, 100ml, £155 Based on a real lemonade recipe Tom Daxon discovered in Greece, this zesty scent blends succulent lemon, bergamont and mandarin against mint and sea salt for an upli ing, citrussy hit.
tomdaxon.com
jomalone.co.uk
GIVENCHY
EAU DE GIVENCHY
Eau de toilette, 100ml, £60
e modern interpretation of this classic perfume sets to capture the scent of summer with the sweetness of orange blossoms teamed with comforting layers of musk and cedar.
johnlewis.com
CREED
PRADA
LES INFUSION DE PRADA MANDARINE
Eau de parfum, 100ml, £102.50 Mandarine is the first citrus to join the Les Infusions de Prada family, opening with vibrant notes of orange peel and mandarin, with heart notes of neroli and orange blossom.
harrods.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
PERFUME sr.indd 79
LOVE IN WHITE FOR SUMMER
Eau de parfum, 75ml, £180 A seasonal update to Creed’s best-selling women’s fragrance Love In White White, this fruity counterpart conjures images of long nights spent on the Cote d’Azur with notes of iris, bergamot, apple and sandalwood.
creedfragrances.com
79
07/08/2018 22:50
Untitled-1 1
14/12/2017 18:09
PROMOTION
Summer of love Three centuries in the making, Creed’s new summer fragrance is a breath of fresh air
I
n 1760, a pair of leather scented gloves were hand-delivered to King George III by new London tailoring company James Creed. The monarch was so impressed, Creed went on to become a firm favourite with the English court, and Queen Victoria thereafter. Since then the company has crafted some of the most exquisite, extravagant fragrances for the world’s most discerning noses. Its newest, Love In White For Summer, is no exception. Taking inspiration from its best-selling fragrance Love In White, the floral scent speaks of summer romances and long, lazy, sun-dappled evenings. Sweet and sensual but with woody undertones, it features top notes of Bulgarian rose, combined with bergamot and magnolia – evoking a
fresh breeze blowing through soft linen – while earthy ambergris calls to mind the sparkling turquoise waters of a Riviera marina. Heart notes of Florentine iris, rice and Virginian cedar wood lend it a slightly powdery, woody scent and work with base notes of Indian sandalwood, apple and jasmine to add a lash of lasting sweetness. The esteemed fragrance house has an illustrious family history – producing over 200 handmade perfumes over the centuries, using rare traditional techniques – and a keen inherited nose that has been passed from father to son through seven generations. Today, Parisbased Olivier Creed, ‘Créateur Parfumeur’ and direct descendant of James Henry Creed, continues the tradition, travelling the world with his
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
CREED ADV_v2 RW.indd 81
son Erwin, to source, research, inspect and commission the finest materials. The luxuriously appointed Creed flagship boutique on Mount Street, Mayfair is a destination in itself – with royalty, heads of state and A-list film stars passing through its doors. Pay a visit and you can also get your bespoke bottle engraved, making your fine fragrance just that little bit more exquisite. Love In White For Summer £110 (30ml), £180 (75ml) Creed Boutique, 99 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1 020 7495 1795 Open Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm creedfragrances.co.uk
81
07/08/2018 12:10
TGM_MAY18_220X285_V1:Layout 1
22/5/18
14:01
Page 1
everyone triyoga... 6 beautiful locations 750+classes a week 25+ styles of yoga expert teachers pilates gyrotonic + barre treatments teacher training organic cafĂŠs lifestyle shops at triyoga london www.triyoga.co.uk
Untitled-1 1
15/06/2018 19:57
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
Wellness Notes
State-of-the-art infrared saunas and an outdoor urban spa are some of the latest ways to keep healthy in the capital Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
THE GENTLE APPROACH
With its simple yet stylish packaging, The Gentle Label’s plant-based, non-toxic household cleaning range offers a smart edit of just three products – all you need for a clean home with a conscience. thegentlelabel.com
PURE AIR Keep your cool as the season hots up Stay chilled during the long, hot days – and nights – of summer with the new Dyson Pure Cool range. Available in tower or desk form (£399.99/£499.99), these clever fans are not only super-effective at cooling the air around you, but they also capture 99.95% of allergens and pollutants, ensuring pure, clean air throughout your space. In addition, the fans constantly sense and display the air quality in real time. With no blades and a quieter night-time mode, they are also perfect for children’s bedrooms, too. dyson.co.uk
HEAVEN SCENT
Free Your Mind
PARADISE FOUND London’s first ‘wellbeing playground’ launches at Belgravia’s Eccleston Yards this September for one week (7-15). Designed by Bompas & Parr, Paradise Now is an outdoor urban spa that promises to re-energise. Immersive experiences include a meditation zone amid aromatherapy-scented pebbles, a largescale infrared light installation and an electrolyte aqua bar with water tastings from seven different continents. 21 Eccleston Place, Belgravia, SW1 ecclestonyards.com
GLOWING FOR IT
California cool meets millennial pink at Glow Bar, London’s latest wellness space. Featuring the state-of-the-art infrared saunas that are causing a stir across the pond, Glow Bar also includes a café serving healthy treats, a customisable elixir bar and a boutique filled with natural beauty brands. 70 Mortimer Street, Marylebone, W1 glowbarldn.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
WELLNESS NOTES sr.indd 83
Whether you are in need of calming or uplifting, Neom’s new Wellbeing Pod (£90) targets your mood — and leaves your home deliciously scented. This device uses high frequency vibrations to diffuse essential oil blends into your surroundings helping you achieve better sleep, less stress or more energy. neomorganics.com
LIMITED EDITIONS
Take time out to try something new as Bulgari Hotel London introduces a Specialists in Residence series at its Knightsbridge spa. Leading practitioners from across the globe will each be taking up a two-month residency, starting with Ayurvedic massage guru Chan Singh. bulgarihotels.com
83
07/08/2018 22:45
EAST LONDON’S LEADING WELLBEING STUDIO Specialising in Yoga (Vinyasa Flow, Forrest, Power, Ashtanga, Yin, Hatha, Kundalini, Nidra and Restorative), Barre, Pilates, Fitness, Meditation, Sound Healing, Personal Training, Workshops, 200 hour Yoga Teacher Trainings and Retreats. At The Refinery we take what we do very seriously but we don’t take ourselves too seriously! We firmly believe that health, wellbeing and exercise is for every body and everybody should be able to access them, in a welcoming, relaxed and fun environment. We have four studios and two therapy rooms offering a wide range of Yoga, Meditation, Barre, Pilates and Fitness workouts as well as many holistic therapies that all complement each other to nourish your mind, body and soul, helping you feel connected and healthy.
FOR YOUR MIND, BODY & SOUL 14 Collent Street, The Basement, The Ceramic Works, London E9 6SG info@therefinerye9.com 020 7148 5990 therefinerye9.com
THE REFINERY.indd 77
04/08/2018 14:10
Cocktail Hour Seeking out a summer project? Pick up a copy of Aperitif and while away the long evenings honing your cocktailmaking skills. This spirited guide goes into the history of the apéritif and includes plenty of tempting recipes – from a classic negroni to a Rebujito (Manzanilla and lemonade) – to help you shake up cocktail hour and venture beyond the standard G&T. Aperitif: A Spirited Guide to the Drinks, History and Culture of the Aperitif by Kate Hawkings. Quadrille, £16.99
FOOD OPENER 5 [JR SUBBED].indd 77
04/08/2018 11:50
Tasting Notes The latest openings and the places to know across the capital Compiled by RACHEL WALKER
Pearls of Wisdom
The anticipated follow-up to Kitty Fishers borrows its name from another British courtesan: Cora Pearl. There are trademark theatrics, louche luxury and an extravagant menu: pig jowl and Montgomerycheese toasties through to a ‘sharing’ trifle – making it as much fun as its party-girl namesake suggests. 30 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, WC2 corapearl.co.uk
NEW ROUX
Unsung Hero
Henry Harris is on a roll – The Coach has quickly become a firm favourite among the capital’s gourmands, and he’s struck gold again with The Hero of Maida. Harris’ new-gen gastropubs are elegant, parquet-floored affairs with precise French dishes, strong wine lists and perfectly quivering crème caramel – c’est parfait! 55 Shirland Road, Maida Vale, W9 theheromaidavale.co.uk
Following a three month-long renovation, Michel Roux Jr’s The Landau, at The Langham Hotel, has reopened. And – shock, horror – they have banished the tablecloths. The elegant but contemporary refresh, from long-time Roux collaborator David Collins Studio, sees the addition of a central dining counter and cheese cabinet, with a pared-back menu of French-British dishes from head chef Nicolas Pasquier: highlights include braised turbot with Chateau Chalon sauce, lobster ravioli, and artichokes à la Barigoule with bulgur and turmeric emulsion. The wine offering has been extended to include 525 varieties – each available by the glass. Roux at the Laudau, The Langham, 1C Portland Place, Marylebone, W1 rouxatthelandau.com
And All That Jazz After its sell-out success, The Tate Britain’s Rex Whistler is bringing back its Saturday Jazz brunches. Book a spot on the terrace to enjoy the ragtime and blues along with brunch classics such as eggs Florentine and a bloody mary – the perfect sharpener before taking in an exhibition. The Rex Whistler Restaurant at Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1 tate.org.uk
Hot launch
NO SMOKE WITHOUT FIRE Fire, fermentation, Fitzrovia... what’s not to love? Chef Yotam Ottolenghi’s latest launch Rovi is a departure from his Middle Eastern trademark, with more rootless recipes putting vegetables at the centre of the action. Think Jersey royals smoked over hay and hand-dived scallops with cucumber kombucha. Almost three-quarters of the dishes are vegetarian and vegan options are available, making this the perfect place to veg out this summer. 59 Wells Street, Fitzrovia, W1 ottolenghi.co.uk/rovi
86
FOOD NOTES 5 [JR SUBBED].indd 86
HOUSE PARTY
There’s a ban on red trousers behind The Little Blue Door on Fulham Road. Forget stuffiness – the neighbourhood bar is based round a fictional flatshare, where reservations are made by WhatsApping the host. Expect free-flowing fun at the weekly dinner parties which leave little doubt where the party’s at. 871-873 Fulham Road, Fulham, SW6 thelittlebluedoor.co.uk
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 11:47
FOOD & DRINK
Barfly
The Zetter Townhouse
ITALIAN JOB
Swing by The Zetter Townhouse for a moscato soda – the drink of the summer. The pisco-based cocktail appears on its new menu alongside the Jerusalem Sour (pictured above), for which £1 is given to Amos Trust’s new project, On Her Terms, for every drink sold. The charity focuses on promoting justice and hope for young women living on the streets of Palestine and Israel. House cocktails £11. 49-50 St John’s Square, Clerkenwell, EC1 thezettertownhouse.com
Homesick Italians have long relied on Lina Stores for proper prosciutto and pecorino, but now the 75-year-old Soho deli has opened its first on-site restaurant. The menu stays true to its roots thanks to chef Marsha Rener’s handed-down family recipes and lesser-known regional specialities – making this the perfect place for a spot of escapism, a glass of Etna Bianco and plate of gnudi. 51 Greek Street, W1
linastores.co.uk
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
FOOD NOTES 5 [JR SUBBED].indd 87
87
04/08/2018 11:47
FOOD & DRINK
88
FOOD INTERVIEW_v2 RW.indd 88
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 11:39
FOOD & DRINK
Interview
Plan it
ORGANIC As Lady Bamford releases her debut cookbook, we find out what’s next for Daylesford, the farm that’s proved to be a pioneer in more ways than one
L
Words RACHEL WALKER
ady Bamford looks nervous as she stands up to speak. The 72-year old businesswoman is hosting a party at her 2,500acre Cotswold Estate to celebrate the launch of her debut cookbook, Nurture. ‘Massaged’ kale and fat asparagus spears are brought to a dining table dressed with lily of the valley, white ranunculus and overhead wreaths – but it’s about more than just seasonal dishes and extravagant floristry. Nurture tells the story of Daylesford Farm, one of the early adopters of the organic movement in the UK. It all started 40 years ago when Lady Bamford persuaded her husband (the billionaire chairman of JCB, Sir Anthony Bamford) to convert the family’s two farms (Wootton in Staffordshire and Daylesford in the Cotswolds) to organic. It signalled the start of an empire which she continues to build with military focus and precision. A few cattle became a herd, a bakery grew into a farm shop, which expanded with three London outposts (Marylebone, Pimlico, Notting Hill), and the empire spilled over into Provence where organic wines and olive oils are made at the Bamford’s French home, Château Léoube. Now converted barns at Daylesford Farm showcase the entire lifestyle range. There’s a clothing line, an onsite spa, cafe and cookery school as well as nearby restaurant with rooms, The White Rabbit. Still, in spite of her commercial prowess, Lady Bamford appears anxious. A billowing elderflower coloured smock cloaks her iron will, and she peers coyly from beneath the rim of a straw fedora, carefully addressing her guests: “We can’t afford not to be organic,” she says in a small but firm voice. “We have to be organic if we want to look after this planet for our children and for our children’s children.” The political rhetoric comes as no surprise – after all, Lady Bamford has advised environment secretary Michael Gove. But just as she’s getting into her stride, she suddenly catches herself: “Anyway that’s enough,” she says briskly. “I hope you enjoy what we’re eating today. It’s all from the farm, it’s all from the book. I’m quite nervous about it because it’s quite a big thing for me,” she says sharply, and sits back down.
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
FOOD INTERVIEW_v2 RW.indd 89
89
04/08/2018 11:39
It’s part of the dichotomy that is Lady Bamford. She is a natural campaigner, yet reluctant to speak in public. She’s furiously private, yet shares personal photographs with her 24,000-strong Instagram following. She’s been quoted as disliking fivestar hotels, yet chartered two private jets to fly 180 friends to Jaipur for a joint 70th birthday celebration with her husband. Despite evading the press, there’s an awareness that glimpses of Bamfordian luxury are key to the aspirational Daylesford brand. After all, ‘organic’ once had a hessian and mung bean vibe, but since Lady Bamford opened her fist store in 2002, she introduced a new aesthetic: pale-coloured Agas against Cotswold stone, woven willow and wild flowers. Today, dramatic arrangements of foraged blackthorn blossom decorate the shop. There are wicker baskets heaving with purple sprouting broccoli, wild garlic and small bunches of pheasant eye narcissus priced at £10. In the dairy section, flavoured milk kefir and probiotic yoghurt are stacked alongside organic milk. Little wonder that it’s been said that calling Daylesford Organic a ‘farm shop’ is a bit like referring to Karl Lagerfeld as ‘a dressmaker’. There’s no doubt that only the very wealthy can treat Daylesford as their local grocers. The farm shops have however set an agenda and – as with haute couture – the ideas trickle down to the high street. No plastic bags have ever been used at Daylesford and it has only ever allowed reusable coffee cups. Even the milk is packed in eco-friendly Caylmer pouches. “It’s something I am particularly proud of,” says Lady Bamford. “The packaging’s carbon footprint is significantly lower when compared to a standard HDPE plastic bottle.” It might seem easy to build momentum now that organic has entered the mainstream consciousness, but it wasn’t always the way. The Daylesford story starts during the summer heat wave of 1976. Lady Bamford was in the garden with her firstborn, Alice, when she noticed that her
“I recall saying, ‘We can’t carry on farming the way we are; we have to do it differently’”
90
FOOD INTERVIEW_v2 RW.indd 90
At first, Lady Bamford met resistance from the farm manager – but soon staff started to come round to the idea: “I remember our wonderful shepherd Dick coming to me and saying, ‘Do you know, you were so right – the animals are happier; they’re healthier because we’re treating them homeopathically, and the lamb has a better flavour.” Now staff flock to the farm – keen to be associated with such a pioneering brand. Tim Field, an environmental scientist who has worked at Daylesford for 11 years, beams with pride as we set off on a tour. He points out Daylesford Wetlands and the Gloucester cows – a rare breed that the Bamfords have been instrumental in preserving. There are beehives, Ledgber hens in the heritage orchard and Ryeland sheep who have hit the jackpot – the Fairmont of farmyards. We pull-up at a half-acre strip of woodland. There’s wild garlic and a flowering cherry, crab apple, hawthorn, blackthorn, field maple and goat willow. “It provides a year-round source of nectar,” explains Field. “Not only good news for honey bees, but skylarks too,” he says, pointing at the soaring birds overhead. Their numbers have plummeted because of over-efficient agricultural practices, but they are clearly thriving in this idyllic patch in the Cotswolds. In the market garden, manager Jez Taylor takes over, as
newly planted roses were wilting. The farmer next door was spraying his crops with herbicide: “I could smell it, it was everywhere,” she remembers. It wasn’t long after that Lady Bamford got chatting to an organic farmer at the Royal Agricultural Show in Coventry: “He explained to me what being organic meant and how we could raise our animals and grow our crops in a sustainable and natural way without pesticides or antibiotics,” she says. It appealed to something within – perhaps the simple ration card cooking of her childhood in Nottingham, which was dictated by the seasons out of necessity. “On the way home I recall saying to my husband, ‘We can’t carry on farming the way we are; we have to do it differently.’”
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 11:39
FOOD & DRINK
Lady Bamford’s
L
he shows us some of the 300 varieties of vegetables that are grown for the shops, cookery school and cafes. There’s sorrel and lovage, vegetable oyster and sea kale. In the neighbouring field, a patch has been recently designated as the ‘cutting flowers’ garden: “Last year, Lady Bamford came out here with me and said, ‘Jez, I want it to be all flowers out here. I’m fed up of buying things off a Dutch lorry, it’s a thorn in the
side of Daylesford – there’s nothing organic about it, so let’s take control.’” Already, Daylesford has harvested 12,000 daffodils, now it is onto the different varieties of tulips, dahlias and roses. The cutting garden isn’t the only innovation though – throughout the day we hear about plans for the heritage apples to be used for single-origin ciders, the retired dairy cows to be used for beef and sustainably sourced woodchips to be used in the recently installed biomass as the farm strives toward a ‘zero waste’ status. Then there’s the 298-page cookbook to promote. While others might start winding-down in their seventies, Lady Bamford is still ramping things up motivated by a heartfelt belief in the Daylesford philosophy rather than money, fame or prestige: “We’re custodians of our land, our soil, or bodies and minds, and our precious planet,” she says. “I think we can all make small changes to live in a more mindful way and strive to leave our world in a better state than we find it.” ‘Nurture: Notes and Recipes from Daylesford Farm’ by Carole Bamford, £35 (Square Peg)
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
FOOD INTERVIEW_v2 RW.indd 91
O
N
D
O
N
GLOSSARY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT The River Cafe, run by the wonderful Ruth Rogers. It’s all about seasonal, local ingredients and doing the simplest things with them. rivercafe.co.uk TOP SPOT FOR A DRINK The new Annabel’s for theatre and glamour; 5 Hertford Street for fun with old friends; and Harry’s Bar on South Audley Street for cocktails and impeccable service. annabels.co.uk; 5hertfordstreet.com; harrysbar.co.uk FAMILY DAY OUT I love exploring farmers’ markets with my grandchildren. When I’m in London for the weekend we go to the Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market on Saturday morning before walking over to the Daylesford Cafe for a hot chocolate. lfm.org.uk; daylesford.com HIDDEN GEM My son George has just opened a fantastic men’s grooming and accessories shop on Threadneedle Street, next to The Royal Exchange in the City. The tiny store used to be a tobacconist and it still has lots of its original features – it’s the perfect place for leather accessories, watches and, of course, Bamford Grooming Department’s essentials. bamfordgroomingdepartment.com CLOTHES SHOPPING Dover Street Market for discovering interesting young designers; Connolly on Clifford Street for traditional, understated elegance; and George Cleverley in The Royal Arcade for beautifully crafted handmade shoes. doverstreetmarket.com; connollyengland.com; georgecleverley.com WHERE TO UNWIND Walking my dogs is my favourite way to unwind and Hyde Park can’t be beaten for beauty and variety. An afternoon searching for antiques is another muchloved pastime – Robert Young in Battersea and Rose Uniacke on Pimlico Road rarely disappoint. I’m always certain that I’ll find a hidden treasure in a dusty corner. robertyoungantiques.com; roseuniacke.com
91
04/08/2018 11:40
Restaurant R E V I E W S
UNDER THE SUN Restaurant writer Hilary Armstrong seeks out the hidden oases in the heart of the capital
The Petersham
W
ant. Want. Want. Want. That’s the word playing on a silent loop through my mind over a summer’s lunch at the Petersham, the slick, sun-kissed new outpost of Richmond’s Petersham Nurseries in Covent Garden. It’s not just the menu: heritage radishes with spiced crab, saffron gnocchi with Cornish mussels, hazelnut sorbet – want, want, want – it’s everything I see around me from the pink and gold salt ‘pinch pots’, to the pastel ice cream coupes, the twisted branch side tables and the vast canvases that stretch across the walls. Want, want and want some more. Masterminded by Lara Boglione, eldest daughter of Francesco and Gael Boglione (who founded the original garden centre cafe in the grounds of their 17th-century Richmond home in 2004), this ‘lifestyle destination’ comprising
92
RESTAURANT REVIEWS 5.indd 92
2 Floral Court, Covent Garden, WC2 petershamnurseries.com
delicatessen, florist, wine merchants, cafe, courtyard and restaurant, is a showcase of the family’s impeccable taste. It invites us all to be a little more ‘Boglione’. I’m in. It’s an experience to linger over, rose petal prosecco in hand. The menu delights in everything the season has to say starting with quinoa, lovage and pea crostata, a nifty
dinner party idea noted for a later date. There’s barely a restaurant in London that doesn’t do a steak tartar; the Petersham’s venison tartar is a superior beast, dusted with cacao and studded with smoky Sicilian almond nibs. The full Italian four courses would be hard work here (portions are ample) but do at least split a pasta ‘primo’ such as half moons of buffalo ricotta and nettle casoncelli in a pool of melted butter. Mediterranean fish stew is a polite version, minus any gnarly unidentifiable bits of shell and bone, but with all the flavour of squid, lobster and the south of France. Into August, look out for tagliatelle with girolles, grouse with late summer beans and Culatello di Zibello, and scoops of deep purple blackcurrant sorbet. . MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £160 SIGNATURE DISHES: Petersham garden salad WHAT TO DRINK: Rose petal prosecco
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 11:51
FOOD & DRINK
THE MANDRAKE 20-21 Newman Street, Fitzrovia, W1 themandrake.com
M ANNABEL’S 46 Berkeley Square, Mayfair, W1 annabels.co.uk
O
f all that the new Annabel’s has to share with its select members – de Gournay wallpaper, golden swan taps, a life-size Pegasus and a 1937 Picasso, for goodness’ sake – the one feature that really sets the restaurant (and architecture) lovers’ pulses racing is the roof. A 22-ton retractable glass and steel design, it was created by Waagner-Biro, the engineers behind the Reichstag dome and the British Museum’s Great Court. At the first drop of rain, this daring feat of structural engineering retracts in just two minutes, allowing guests in the 120-cover ground floor Garden restaurant to drink their DRC Montrachet Grand Cru undiluted. Designer Martin Brudnizki (Sexy Fish, 34 Mayfair, etc) drew inspiration for this space from an
English country garden (he pursues a flora-and-fauna theme across the Grade I-listed Georgian mansion’s four restaurants, seven bars and 26,000 square feet of space). It’s a richly realised fantasy, the sumptuous mise-en-scène incorporating fruiting lemon trees,
plumped cushions, tasselled table lamps and lissom palms. Ex-Alain Ducasse chef Julien Jouhannaud resists the maximalist urge and allows the innate beauty of his ingredients to shine: there’s native lobster (in salad or with handmade cavatelli), organic Scottish salmon with watercress and caviar, roasted poulet noir with tarragon jus, black truffle risotto and foie gras au torchon. The garden opens from 7am to 3am, delivering everything from cold press juices to Waldorf salad, A5 wagyu and tins of caviar. From dawn to dusk, Annabel’s has got you covered.
MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £140 SIGNATURE DISHES: Côte de boeuf with guindillas and house fries (for two to four people) WHAT TO DRINK: Passion Flower cocktail (Acqua di Cedro, jasmine and passion flower, clear clementine juice, Ruinart)
MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £X SIGNATURE DISHES: Annabel’s hamburger, lobster omelette, tiramisu WHAT TO DRINK: Henri Giraud Champagne – Annabel’s Edition
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
RESTAURANT REVIEWS 5.indd 93
ysterious and slightly forbidding from the outside, inside Fitzrovia’s seductive Mandrake Hotel is its best kept secret: the Jurema Terrace, a seductive oasis lush with tumbling greenery, jasmine and trailing passion flowers. Usually reserved for hotel guests, it’s open to non-residents from noon until 3pm, Tuesday to Friday, when it serves lunch (three courses, £22) from Serge, the urbane French import (formerly Serge et le Phoque). Bookend dinner at Serge with botanical-slash-medicinal cocktails from the hotel’s Waeska bar (tinctures include hemp, skullcap and kola nut), keeping your head clear for Frédéric Peneau’s sharpedged cuisine. Right now, there’s a Mediterranean ‘vacay’ vibe to menus, with ‘carabineros’ red prawns (the thinking foodie’s luxury protein), charcoal-grilled octopus with Greek salad and a copper pot of langoustine, squid and artichoke paella.
93
04/08/2018 11:51
FOOD & DRINK
THE IVY CHELSEA GARDEN
195-197 King’s Road, Chelsea SW3 theivychelseagarden.com
F
NUMBER SIXTEEN
L
16 Sumner Place, Kensington, SW7 firmdalehotels.com
ondoners have busy, whirring minds, ones that need to hold a hundred ‘insider secrets’ and off-the-radar gems at any given time and in any given postcode. Firmdale Hotels’ bewitching townhouse property, Number Sixteen, minutes from the V&A, has become one of my favoured South Kensington ‘go tos’. Naturally, the hotel itself, a bridal white Victorian stucco building decorated in Kit Kemp’s inimitably playful style, is a feast for the eyes, but it’s the hidden walled garden that has me spellbound. With a gazebo at one end (containing a perfectly romantic stone table à deux), a fish pond planted with water lilies, and a handsome wooden arch, it’s perfect for a tryst. Pebbled mosaics ‘carpets’ and a Tom Stogdon slate arch give budding landscape architects something to aspire to.
94
RESTAURANT REVIEWS 5.indd 94
Food is served at eau de Nil tables in the garden or in the art-filled Orangery, its French windows thrown open to the sun. The menu is super simple, which is just fine sometimes: think Loch Fyne smoked salmon, caper berries and lemon, Suffolk chicken Caesar salad and superfood quinoa salad. And at £19.50, the set menu is a snip. Afternoon tea, with or without Pommery – with! – is always a pleasure, though for an experience that is, for me, the essence of a languorous English summer, Number Sixteen is doing strawberries and cream for two with a bottle of Pommery Rosé for £70 until the end of August.
ollow your nose and you’ll soon find your way to the rose-scented garden and covered upper terrace at the back of the Ivy Chelsea Garden. On a gorgeous day, everybody, but everybody, expects to sip their cucumber cooler al fresco. And it’s cameras to the ready, as there’s not an antique planter nor curlicued trellis that isn’t #underthefloralspell. Though the Ivy’s best-known signatures aren’t exactly summer-ready – did somebody say shepherd’s pie? – rest assured ‘comfort food’ takes many guises. Devon crab linguine with chilli and lemon, lobster and chips or crispy duck salad with toasted cashews and watermelon are your fair weather friends. Should Mother Nature declare the garden off-limits, one can still delight in the outside from inside in the candlelit orangery. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £100 SIGNATURE DISHES: Steak tartare, truffled chicken sandwich; frozen berries with warm white chocolate sauce WHAT TO DRINK: Ivy Garden Kir Royale or Garden iced tea
MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £80 SIGNATURE DISH: The afternoon tea WHAT TO DRINK: Pommery Champagne, Garden Bellini
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 11:51
Restaurant R E V I E W S
AQUA KYOTO
N
THE RIVER CAFE Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, Hammersmith W6 rivercafe.co.uk
F
riends of mine who’ve worked at the River Cafe get all mistyeyed when they recall their enchanted summers at Ruth Rogers’ renowned west London restaurant. Shelling peas in the garden, picking basil for the pesto al Genovese, hulling strawberries in the dappled sunlight... it’s a rus in urbe vision straight from the pages of, well, the River Cafe Cookbook. And if even the hired help gets lost in reverie, you can only imagine how glorious it is for the pampered guest who doesn’t have to lift a finger (except to order one more fresh peach Bellini). Don’t let on, but this stretch of the Thames is not actually that scenic, yet from the vantage point of the River Cafe’s shaded terrace, fragrant with oregano and fennel, it feels quite magical. Let the seasons – and all that you see growing around you – guide you. Baking heat calls for cooling, raw ingredients such as slivers of wild sea bass with marigold tomatoes, golden oregano and chilli or Culatello di Zibello ham with sweet Charentais melon. Heftier chargrilled dishes wear their summer outfits: calf’s liver, for example, pairs up with Tuscan bread, tomato and black olive salad; sirloin with fresh borlotti and basil. For dessert? Sorbetto. Preferably strawberry.
5th Floor, 240 Regent Street, Mayfair, W1 aquakyoto.co.uk
ext time you’re on Regent Street, look up. It’s hard to believe, but five floors above the crowds on the street, in the tranquil kitchen garden at Aqua Kyoto, a team of focused young chefs is tending their crop of tagetes leaves (marigold), okahijiki (land seaweed) and beni-tade (water pepper). This season, the glossy Japanese restaurant is getting green-fingered with the opening of its English-countrysidegoes-Zen garden, in partnership with Tanqueray Lovage, Tanqueray’s new limited-edition gin based on an archive recipe from 1839. Neglected herbs and forgotten flowers are cropping up (quite literally) not only in cocktails – such as the evocatively named Italian Escape with Tanqueray Lovage and bergamot-infused Italicus – but also in some new-season dishes. Look out for the sweet buttery flavour of seared Chilean sea bass spiked with ginger shallot dressing and okahijiki, and for the umami-powered Miyazaki beef with fermented garlic butter, miso and a trio of happening herbals: tagetes, hana ho (shiso flowers) and beni-tade. Aqua Kyoto’s newly introduced Ukiyo brunch is something else:
a menu of two halves, with wickedly indulgent izakaya tucker like okonomiyaki with bacon and tonkatsu sauce and rock shrimp tempura with chilli garlic sauce, up against more virtuous plates of seaweed salad and buckwheat yakisoba. Linger long enough over sushi and bottomless Bellinis (£49) or Veuve Clicquot (£65) and it will be time to retire to the terrace for a Waiting for Sunset cocktail as you watch night fall on the city. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £150 SIGNATURE DISHES: Wild seaweed salad, nori oil and black goma dressing WHAT TO DRINK: The Summer Garden (Tanqueray Lovage, Cinzano Bianco, Suze Liqueur, Vecchio Amaro del Capo, Grapefruit)
MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £160 SIGNATURE DISHES: Calamari ai ferri – chargrilled squid with fresh red chilli and rocket; chocolate nemesis WHAT TO DRINK: White Peach Bellini
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
RESTAURANT REVIEWS 5.indd 95
95
04/08/2018 11:52
GLOBETROTTER MAASI WARRIOR.indd 1
24/07/2017 17:58
TRAVEL
Barefoot luxe With a clutch of stunning new openings, there’s nothing buzzier than the sun-drenched isle of Mykonos right now. The new Riva Private Deck and intimate cabanas (pictured) at Nammos Mykonos are keeping the superyacht set busy, while boutique resort Katikies is being hailed as the island’s coolest new hotel. nammos.gr; katikies.com
TRAVEL OPENER.indd 97
07/08/2018 20:16
Travel Notes
Stargaze in the Swedish Arctic, sleep underwater in the Maldives and re-wild in the depths of Borneo Compiled by LIZZIE POOK
GET WILD
Family friendly
Moving beyond bucket list travel, NWS RAW, a new service from award-winning Natural World Safaris will allow those with a healthy sense of wanderlust the chance to explore unsung wildernesses not necessarily on the global map. Trips will take guests off the beaten track – to the northern wilds of Uganda, the untouched wilderness of Miliau Basin in Borneo, or searching for snow leopards high in the mighty Himalayas – all with the support of a structured itinerary and an expert team behind you. naturalworldsafaris.com
REST ASSURED Travelling en famille but don’t want to compromise on luxury? Stay in one of Scott Dunn’s exquisite white-washed Ibizan villas and they’ll fly in a dedicated nanny to entertain the children – even taking them on excursions and preparing meals while you concentrate on one important thing: languishing in style. Seven nights with a ‘Flying Nanny’ from £6,100; scottdunn.com
LIBERAL ARTS
Sprawled across one of Barcelona’s most iconic buildings, the opulent new infinity pool and lounge at the Hotel Arts has just re-opened for the summer, following extensive refurbishment. With panoramic views of the glittering ocean and Frank Gehry’s striking sculptures, it’s the perfect place to enjoy sultry Mediterranean sunsets or sip on a cocktail after dark.
hotelartsbarcelona.com 98
TRAVEL NOTES.indd 98
Rock star
When it re-opens in August, the highly anticipated Gara Rock – an exclusive retreat hugging the south Devon coastline – will surely set the precedent as one of the finest boutique boltholes in the UK. With world-class views, a superb spa, and a restaurant with an unrivalled seafood offering, it also features new loft suites, sea-view apartments, cosy cottages, and a (pretty special) heated clifftop pool.
gararock.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 14:04
T R AV E L
Underwater love Conrad Maldives Rangali Island has a history when it comes to underwater innovation – they were the first to open an underwater restaurant, Ithaa, 13 years ago. Now, they’ve taken things one step further, with the launch of an undersea residence later this year. The Muraka is a luxurious twolevel space where guests can fully immerse themselves in the tranquillity of the Indian Ocean, with unobstructed, 180 degree views of surrounding corals and marine life from the bedroom, bathroom and living area. No wetsuit needed.
conradmaldives.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
TRAVEL NOTES.indd 99
DUE NORTH
It may look like something from Game of Thrones but ArcticBath is actually the newest floating hotel in Sweden’s Arctic north. Adrift on the Lule River – a place of ethereal glaciers, snow-tipped forests and skies filled with aurora borealis – the resort, when it opens later this year, will be home to six hotel rooms as well as saunas, a cold plunge pool and a stunning central open-air bath.
arcticbath.se
99
04/08/2018 14:04
Wanderlust
STYLE & SUSTAINABILITY Eco-aware and luxury are no longer mutually exclusive when it comes to travel says Juliet Kinsman, founder of Bouteco. Here, she brings us the inside track on indulgent escapes with a conscience
100
MAIN TRAVEL JK_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 100
07/08/2018 20:28
T R AV E L
C
lose your eyes and picture a sexy luxury hotel: fluffy pillows, fancy linens, breakfast in bed, silver tea service. It’s an aphrodisiac, right? Then I drop the ‘s’ word — sustainability. Suddenly those soft-focus scenes of romance sharpen into high-definition images of a scolding ecowarrior tsk-tsking you for indulging in that bubble bath when you should be camping with the most basic of creature comforts. Truth is, thanks to a new generation of getaways, you can go green and still do glamorous — just seek out stays where your hosts have social and environmental consciences. Places where bed linens are organic fairtrade cotton, ingredients served are local, seasonal and hail from independent suppliers, and the water in your tub-for-two was heated by solar energy with sweetly scented, plant-based products that are biodegradable and ethical. And all the better if they’re free of single-use plastic, too. Ben Pundole, vice-president of Brand Experiences at Edition Hotels, has set up a wonderful initiative called Stay Plastic Free — launched at the London outpost of the Marriott-owned chain but soon to be rolled out to every Edition to make the company 100 per cent single-use plastic-free (including coffee cups, straws, toothbrushes and minibar items) by the end of 2019. ‘The plastic we dump on land ends up polluting some of the most remote and beautiful parts of the planet,’ says Cyrill Gutsch, founder of environmental organisation Parley for the Oceans. ‘Many of these areas rely on tourism so marine plastic affects both ecosystems and economies. We need to stop the flow of plastic and work to protect these fragile places while we do.’ Through its Clean Waves platform, Parlay has teamed up with Corona to make limited-edition sunglasses available exclusively through Net-aPorter, each pair tackling marine-plastic pollution on islands such as the Maldives, Palau and Bali. Plastic is the topic of the moment — and hotels kicking it to the kerb are indeed helping make a difference. But the hotels with the biggest hearts are the ones using their hospitality to be a force for good in other ways, too. They don’t prioritise profit margins over a sense of purpose and they challenge traditional models when it comes to operating their businesses — and through this they promise a boosted feelgood factor. As a potential booker, if you’re not sure whether environmentally friendly laundry practices are in place, don’t be shy about asking about their policies. If customers let on about what they care about, accommodation owners will respond to that. Tourism accounts for one in 10 jobs globally, employing nearly 300 million people, so having a holiday that has a positive effect is a great way to do your bit. Research and reflect on whether your money is going to help a local economy or is destined to end up in an ex-pat’s offshore account. Select destinations that benefit from tourism rather than those being compromised by too much of it (hello, Venice; hi, Koh Samui). Bhutan’s Prime Minister Tshering Tobgay believes his country not to be carbon-neutral, but carbonnegative. Huge swathes of Costa Rica are Unesco-protected, and most of its electricity is renewably sourced. Namibia was the first African country to add the protection of the environment to its constitution. Sweden and Switzerland have long been poster countries for a ‘reduce, reuse and recycle’ way of living, while Iceland aims to be entirely fossil fuel-free by 2050. Here are a handful of decadent yet mindful properties around the globe that are leading the way in eco-tourism...
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
MAIN TRAVEL JK_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 101
101
04/08/2018 11:56
Soneva Fushi THE MALDIVES, INDIAN OCEAN soneva.com/soneva-fushi
I
f Robinson Crusoe styled a stay that hinted at his desertisland experience while being fancy enough to keep an oligarch living his preferred lifestyle, this is it. If you can assuage your conscience enough to find your way to this archipelago in the middle of the Indian Ocean (the Maldivian government, sadly, isn’t the most progressive), this is one of Soneva’s two resorts helping to protect the planet, one plasticfree, solar-powered, carbon-neutral stay at a time. Soneva Fushi is a private island of eco-chic villas — surrounded by a magnificent house reef in the Baa Atoll Unesco Biosphere Reserve — which supports Soneva’s foundation. The hotel’s charity has provided thousands of families with clean-burning stoves, helping to save communities and the atmosphere from millions of tonnes of CO2, enabling safer cooking practices for many. As for what you get from your five-star foray, there are private seawater pools, a Six Senses spa, sunset views from glass-fronted rooms and dining under the stars. These forwardthinkers are also futureproofing local livelihoods by boosting job opportunities for women in male-dominated trades such as engineering and housekeeping while creating imaginative initiatives such as a glass-blowing studio where you’re invited to turn waste into works of art. In a nutshell: style with substance and ‘make your dreams come true’ service. Prices from £832-£2,927 per room per night including tax, excluding breakfast
102
MAIN TRAVEL JK_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 102
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
05/08/2018 16:41
T R AV E L
Soneva Fushi, Maldives (and previous page)
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
MAIN TRAVEL JK_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 103
103
05/08/2018 16:42
B
right ideas for a brighter future: brainchild of Andrew Dixon, philanthropic creator of Nikoi — the rusticdeluxe private-island retreat in the Riau Archipelago — Cempedak is an environmentally-conscious, adults-only resort in the South China Sea. Bunk up in one of its beautifully breezy open-air bamboo villas or have a whirl in the new spa at the water’s edge and your time in paradise also pays it forward. As well as feeding you delicious authentic Indonesian feasts and fresh ingredients from its own farm on Bintan, its Island Foundation supports the income, health and education the through community-based projects. Share magical moments with the island’s only other inhabitants, the critically endangered pangolin, sea otters and silver-leaf monkeys and tune into nature all around as you watch the ebb and flow of the ocean from the comfort of your bed.
Cempedak Island INDONESIA, ASIA cempedak.com
Prices range from £277-£374 per room per night including tax, excluding breakfast
104
MAIN TRAVEL JK_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 104
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 11:57
T R AV E L
The Other Side THE BAHAMAS, CARIBBEAN ontheos.com
T
he perfect antidote to the hubbub of Harbour Island (which is seven minutes away by speedboat), this self-sufficient, solar-powered Caribbean camp will have you saying sayonara to wi-fi and hello to feeling more connected in loother ways. Here, sustainability and style go hand in hand and come as standard. Treading lightly on Eleuthera Island’s natural environment, its three hardwood and canvas tents and three shacks with four-poster beds are stripped back and dotted across the beachfront and the hillside. Dining is communal with everything cooked to order, so no horrid wasteful buffet situations. The Instagram-perfect pool is filled with untreated ocean water and guests are encouraged to explore the island by bike with paddle boards, snorkels and yoga mats to borrow, plus ping-pong, pool and a small outdoor gym. Healthy living has rarely felt so hedonistic. Prices from £415-£720 per room per night, including tax and breakfast
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
MAIN TRAVEL JK_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 105
105
04/08/2018 11:58
La Granja IBIZA, EUROPE lagranjaibiza.com
A
n agriturismo haven for holistic relaxation tucked away in Ibiza’s green hills with a style and spirit that betrays its Design Hotels credentials. The back-tonature finca has set new standards in authentic organic experiences, far from earshot of the island’s clubs and beach parties. A 200-year-old farmhouse reimagined by designer Armin Fischer, converted into a neutral-toned, carbonneutral hideout that’s rich in rustic character. Alongside growing leafy radishes, picking perfectly ripe heritage tomatoes and brewing compost tea, master farmer and leading horticulturist Andy Szymanowicz encourages guests and locals to get involved in the biodynamic farming process, excitedly educating them on why to choose probiotics and permaculture over pesticides and walks you through how to best use food waste to nurture nutrient-rich soil. This rustic retreat also has a charismatic calendar of art, music and meditation events — so, yes you might also spot Ibiza’s see-and-be-seen crowd grazing on the good life here, such is its Instagram-friendly opulence and mindful credentials. La Granja is members-only: €200/£175 per season. Prices from £290-£460 per room per night, including tax and breakfast
106
MAIN TRAVEL JK_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 106
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
04/08/2018 11:58
T R AV E L
EC TRAVEL TIPS:
Corona
x Parley’s sunglasses, from £215 at Net-a-Porter, help protect 100 islands by 2020 as part of a project to intercept plastic from dozens of remote islands, while rallying thousands of volunteers for clean-ups and education campaigns; for every 100 sunglasses sold, an island is protected from marine-plastic pollution for a year. cleanwaves.com
Pack How to Give Up Plastic by Will McCallum while you’re away — and then pass it on to someone else after you’ve read it.
Avoid plastic when packing: don’t take any to a place that might not have a responsible refuse system and always use refillable drinking-water bottles such as LifeStraw.
Prioritise natural skincare products that
Shinta Mani Wild CAMBODIA, ASIA
B
shintamani.com
ill Bensley’s newest boutique hideaway has arrived — lightly and elegantly — in Cambodia’s south-west rainforest. No doubt you’ll soon see the acclaimed designer’s flamboyant touches at these 16 riverside tents filling Instagram feeds and travel magazines, but it’s the environmentally aware architecture and honourable hospitality model that works in partnership with Wildlife Alliance, Fauna & Flora International and the Royal University of Phnom Penh to conserve and protect these threatened wildlands. Guests will be able to join rangers and researchers as they check camera traps and study the enormity of the vibrant ecosystem in the
forests. Behind the scenes it’s creating precious opportunities for this especially challenged part of Southeast Asia. To put the underprivilege into perspective, the average earnings in Cambodia are a fifth of those in Thailand and a whirl in this camp, on the border of three national parks, will enrich the life of locals through the Shinta Mani Foundation: the NGO has been enabling education, employment and healthcare in underprivileged villages around the world since 2004. It’s not just whether the hotel has an excellent spa (it does) or a glorious restaurant (it overlooks a stunning waterfall), it’s also nice to get excited by hosts that are offering interest-free loans to local entrepreneurs and distributing water filters across the country to help save newborn children otherwise at risk from unclean water.
When it comes to sun lotion, avoid
oxybenzone — a UV-filtering chemical compound found in most brands of sunscreen — which is killing coral reefs.
Be a humanitarian on the hoof:
consult packforapurpose.org and find out what will help where, from school supplies and medical equipment to footballs.
Play citizen scientist: data collection
can be the most time-consuming part of conservation, so join projects such as Surfers Against Sewage by reporting on water conditions (sas.org.uk/take-action).
Don’t be glued to your phone: connect
with people you meet on the way — all the better if you can learn a few words in the local language and have meaningful conversations.
Join the eco-travel movement and sign up for the Parley for the Oceans newsletter at parley.tv/engage. You can also join Parleyaffiliated beach clean-ups on your travels.
Follow @BoutecoHotels on Instagram for inspiring tips for stylish and sustainable luxury hotels.
Opening winter 2018, prices TBC
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
MAIN TRAVEL JK_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 107
are ethical, biodegradable and chemicalfree. Try Aurelia’s Cell Repair Night Oil or Dr Jackson’s Face and Eye Essence, a nourishing balm that’s ideal for jet lag. Nourish London is a vegan, London-based brand from Dr Pauline Hili: its Essential Renew Collection features cleanser, peptide serum and antiageing skin rescue in a cotton bag — perfect for dry, irritated skin and long-haul flights.
107
04/08/2018 11:58
UK Getaway
Notes on a
SCANDAL Historically beloved by royalty and the site of one of the world’s most infamous affairs, few country house hotels match the opulence of Cliveden Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT
I
f the walls of the magisterial Cliveden House could talk, they would whisper stories of romantic intrigue, hedonistic rock and roll, royal gatherings and, of course, a scandal or two. Built more than 350 years ago, the Italianate country house hotel, surrounded by 376 acres of sweeping National Trust grounds and overlooking the misty Thames, has played host to many an illustrious guest, from princes to politicians. A long-time favourite of the royal family, the Grade I-listed house became the home of Frederick, Prince of Wales during the 18th century and later, Queen Victoria would visit the Duchess of Sutherland here. Queen Elizabeth visited as a child and in 1957 attended a ball thrown by then-owners, the Astors. More recently, Meghan Markle chose to stay at Cliveden on the eve of her wedding to Prince Harry. Now a luxury hotel owned by the billionaire Livingstone Brothers, the Berkshire country house tells a tale
108
UK Travel sr.indd 108
of reinvention writ large. It burned down twice (in 1849, Queen Victoria spotted the flames from Windsor castle and dispatched engines to help battle the fire), was temporarily re-purposed as a hospital for wounded soldiers during the First World War, and formed an impressive backdrop for The Beatles’ film Help!. However, it’s the love stories that you can really feel emanating from the suits of armour and ancient tapestries. Built by the Duke of Buckingham as a symbol of
love for his mistress, Anna, countess of Shrewsbury, the house became the scene of many a romantic dalliance. Its outdoor swimming pool (the first and only listed outdoor pool in Britain) was the setting for the infamous Profumo affair in 1961, when 19-year-old Christine Keeler met Conservative Secretary of State for War John Profumo, visiting with his wife. Symbols of romance still abound throughout the grounds today, such as the Fountain of Love, commissioned by the first Lord Astor and situated on the grounds at the end of a long gravel path. This 19th-century sculpture is unashamedly sensuous, featuring a large Carrara marble shell, supporting three life-sized female nudes frolicking amid jets of water. Cliveden has also provided inspiration for many a creative soul. Take a champagne river cruise down the Thames on board one of the hotel’s vintage boats and the crew will expertly navigate down the exact stretch of river where Kenneth
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
06/08/2018 15:46
T R AV E L
Grahame penned children’s classic The Wind in the Willows, and found inspiration for the grandeur of Toad Hall. It’s not hard to imagine Cliveden’s Edwardian heyday as you soak up the views while sipping ice-cold fizz and enjoying a picnic. Think shady canopies, gently lapping waters and lush wooded banks – parasols and blazers optional. Today, even after a four-year multimillion-pound restoration, the house is still steeped in history and elegance. And at just 45 minutes west of London, you don’t have to go far to be part of the story.
THE SPA
Revamped and reopened in 2017, the Cliveden Spa is a state-of-the-art sanctuary hidden in a beautiful English garden setting, with the outdoor swimming pool providing the perfect centrepiece. But while its surroundings are steeped in heritage, the spa facilities are cutting-edge and include a gym, indoor pool, infrared sauna, aromatherapy steam room and Jacuzzi, as well as seven treatment rooms.
The spa menu offers a range of treatments designed to restore and revitalise, including exclusive, bespoke Sarah Chapman Skinesis facials. Try the Deluxe Stem Cell Collagen Activator Therapy for face and hands, which aims to boost collagen production for an enviable glow. The Cliveden signature body experiences include the Cliveden Bespoke Floatation, a tailor-made massage performed on a warm water mattress and destined to make you float away. Or indulge the senses with a 90-minute Rose Garden Experience, combining a scrub and botanical oil treatment with ancient Indian massage techniques and craniosacral therapy. Designed ‘for emotionally and physically tired souls’, it promises to induce deep meditative relaxation.
THE ROOMS
Cliveden’s 47 rooms are each named after a famous guest, including Rudyard Kipling, Charlie Chaplin and Winston Churchill – the finest being the Lady Astor and the Prince of Wales suites on the first floor. Each is also decorated to match its namesake, with some opulent, some more austere. Choose from cosy club rooms though to grand suites replete with intricate frescoes, antique furniture and white marble bathrooms with powerful monsoon showers. For somewhere to hide away, there is Spring Cottage, ‘a peach of a place, ripe for clandestine weekends’, according to Sophie Dahl. This haven of bucolic bliss by the river was originally built as a summerhouse for Queen Victoria and is where Christine Keeler stayed as a guest when she began her affair with John Profumo.
THE RESTAURANT
The Michelin-starred André Garrett restaurant used to be the humble living room when Viscountess Nancy Astor lived at Cliveden. But today the oak-filled room is just about as ornate as you can get, with duck-egg velvet chairs, opulent crystal chandeliers and delicate show china inspired by Astor’s own, recently discovered collection. With a seasonal menu overseen by ex-Galvin at Windows head chef Garrett, food is unapologetically lavish – threecourse à la carte and eight-course tasting menus are filled with locally stalked venison and veal tartare, Cornish turbot and foie gras ‘au torchon’, served with elegant flourishes from the poised staff. But perhaps most alluring of all are the sprawling views across the estate’s manicured, pansy-strewn gardens and ancient yew maze – Garrett
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
UK Travel sr.indd 109
famously has a ‘thing’ for views. Arrive hungry and you’ll leave in a state of wonder.
THE LITERARY FESTIVAL
Regarded by many as the world’s best small-scale literary gathering, Cliveden Literary Festival (29-30 September 2018; clivedenliteraryfestival.org) returns for its second outing this year, cementing the house’s reputation as a literary salon through the ages. The 2018 line-up includes Alain de Botton, Simon Sebag Montefiore and Edmund de Waal, with discussion topics ranging from the First World War centenary and Russia and espionage in the 21st century to women in power and great female monarchs. But sure to get everyone heated is the closing debate on Brexit between Philip Collins, Jonathan Freedland, Michael Gove, Anne McElvoy, Kwasi Kwarteng, Stephen Pollard and June Sarpong. From £445 per night, including breakfast; Cliveden House & Spa, Taplow, Berkshire, SL6 0JF; (01628 607107); clivedenhouse.co.uk
109
06/08/2018 15:47
Untitled-1 1 LG_MoC-AQ_GLOSSARY_JUN18.indd 1
15/06/2018 19:56 05/06/2018 13:45
HOME & INTERIORS
e Light Fantastic Italian lighting expert Artemide has teamed up with global architectural phenomenon Bjarke Ingels Group to create Gople, a new ‘life-enhancing’ lamp that helps house plants bloom. Its gentle lozenge-shaped glass shade (available in a white crystal, transparent silver or transparent bronze finish), is paired with Artemide’s patented RWB lighting system, which diffuses red, white and blue light, each colour encouraging a different phase of plant growth. artemide.com
HOMES OPENER 6.indd 111
04/08/2018 11:53
Design Notes
Fashion-inspired furniture, illustrated china and a royaltyapproved wedding list Compiled by AMY BRADFORD
A LA MODA
Fans of online luxury fashion retailer Moda Operandi will be pleased to hear it’s extending its offering to include homewares. Presented through trunk shows – which offer a first look at new ranges from international brands – and curated edits, the tabletop selection is particularly strong. These resin creations by Dinosaur Designs are a guaranteed conversation starter. From £108, modaoperandi.com
GLASS MASTERS
Hip Italian lifestyle label La Double J has teamed up with historic Venetian glassmaker Salviati to create these exquisite limited-edition Tipetto goblets. Intended to be treasured rather than used, each of the six delicate designs is based on a museum piece and takes artisans two days to make. £3,500 each, ladoublej.com
Wish list
RESORT CHIC
With its sun-soaked, modern-rustic interiors, Le Sirenuse hotel in Positano is the height of Mediterranean glamour – and its new ceramics collection by British designer Luke Edward Hall is just as chic. His spontaneous sketches, which adorn plates and mugs, take inspiration from Luca Guadagnino’s film Call Me By Your Name, with particular reference to the print on a shirt worn by actor Timothée Chalamet in the movie’s final scene.
From €45, lukeedwardhall.com
112
PRESENT FORM
The Soho Home collection is awash with stylish finds for your abode, but did you know it’s the perfect place to set up a wedding list, too? Prince Harry and Meghan Markle gave it the royal seal of approval, and we can see why: giftable buys include decanters, silverware and a new range from London hotel The Ned. sohohome.com
HOME & INTERIORS
Name to know
Cristina Celestino The Italian architect-turned-designer specialises in original collaborations, such as her ongoing project with shoe label Sergio Rossi, for whom she has designed boutiques and a furniture collection. Her style mixes retro and contemporary influences: this suede and leather Opanca sofa has legs based on Sergio Rossi heels, while straps on the Icona screen borrow from the brand’s signature perforated hides. Sofa, from €9,960; screen, €10,680,
cristinacelestino.com
DECO ON DEMAND
Online store Yoox is a hotspot for global fashion; now it’s added art and design to the mix, too. Curated by renowned cultural entrepreneur Beatrice Trussardi, its new Design + Art ‘virtual gallery’ is aimed at both experienced and novice collectors. Expect a varied mix of rare objets d’art, unique and limitededition pieces and themed edits.
yoox.com
LEFT TO RIGHT: MISSONI HOME Oroscopo cushion, £146; CLARA BERGMAN Deep Jade tray, £18; LOUIS WEISDORF Gubi suspension lamp, £421; PORTEGO Sottoportico rug, £2,153; STEFANO GIOVANNONI Rabbit chair, £1,108
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM
113
LITTLE GREENE Asterid Living Space - Lantern wallpaper; £196 a roll; littlegreene.com
114
INTERIOR TRENDS_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 114
04/08/2018 12:08
HOME & INTERIORS
FLORAL Symphony Evoke the spirit of summer with a profusion of the prettiest floral and botanical prints Words AMY BRADFORD
For this summer’s floral trend, the look is light, the colours are pale and fresh and the mood is sunny, yet there’s a feeling of lush, wild abandon. Look out for naturalistic designs that would give an outdoorsy feel to your home: a single ornate piece, such as Moissonnier’s hand-painted cabinet (below) or Timorous Beasties’ botanical-print chair (below-left), will bring an otherwise simple room to life, as will a fine, illustrative wallpaper inspired by vintage mid-20th century styles from Little Greene (opposite). Clashing patterns also look ultra-contemporary: take inspiration from Erdem’s SS18 ready-to-wear collection, with its kaleidoscope of the designer’s signature blooms. This trend also makes the ideal starting point for a summer table setting, indoors or out. Mix and match different china, glassware and linens for an English eccentric feel – if you stick to an edited colour palette, the effect will be picture perfect. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PREEN HOME Flower Bomb silk cushion, £175; trouva.com ANTHROPOLOGIE Wiltshire dinnerware by Liberty for Anthropologie, from £16 for a side plate; anthropologie.eu CABANA Hand-painted Murano glass carafe and tumbler set, £648; modaoperandi.com MOISSONNIER Hand-painted Amish chest of drawers, £8,350; moissonnier.com TIMOROUS BEASTIES Bloomsbury Garden armchair, £1,200; timorousbeasties.com SOPHIE CONRAN Sabia ceramic table lamp £359; sophieconran.com
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
INTERIOR TRENDS_v3 [JR SUBBED].indd 115
115
04/08/2018 12:08
Interview
DIX N'S DYNASTY
As Tom Dixon relocates his creative hub to Kings Cross, we take a look back at an unconventional career and what’s new from the bass-playing enfant terrible of British design Interview BETHAN RYDER
K
ings Cross is currently London’s most buzzing neighbourhood. Once the dingy brownfield no man’s land north of the station, a late-night destination for clubbers frequenting The Cross and Bagley’s, is now unrecognisable. On a sunny summer’s day the energy is palpable; the tidy expanse of Granary Square is traversed by fashion and art students heading to Central St Martins, people relax on the astro turf of a pop-up open-air cinema lining the canal banks, and a distinctive, if slightly surreal, skyline is taking shape – defined by the rotund Gasholders development and the sloping twin roofs of Heatherwick Studio’s Coal Drops Yard shopping centre. Where else then for British maverick designer Tom Dixon to set up shop (not to mention design studio, restaurant, office and workspace) for the next, more public-facing chapter in his 16-year-old brand’s story. The relocation took him a while: “I was looking for a big open white warehouse space, a white cube, but I’ve ended up in much the same building I was in before,” Dixon muses, looking debonair in a pale blue and white striped cotton suit, while hosting a tour of his new headquarters. Named The Coal Office, the new HQ overlooks Granary Square and inherits its title from its original 19th-century function as a coal distribution centre. “It’s on the same canal as our old home,” Dixon says, referring to Portobello Dock in Ladbroke Grove, “but is in a much more
116
TOM DIXON.indd 116
07/08/2018 21:01
HOME & INTERIORS
useful location and is a more luminous property. Although it’s still a Victorian building and is very awkward from an operational perspective, it’s got a lot of character, which is what you wouldn’t get in a big white cube.” He’s right. The slender brick-built warehouse is long and narrow but curves beautifully, following the bend of the Regent’s Canal. What’s more, its gritty industrial past feels apt for a design brand shaped by a self-taught welder with a talent for working utilitarian materials such as copper, brass and stainless steel into desirable lighting and furniture. The new location is all part of Dixon’s expansion strategy, evolving from a predominantly wholesale business selling to architects and interior designers into a retailer with a public presence. It’s not just a local ambition either. In recent years the publicity-savvy designer has also boosted his international profile. There was this year’s ‘Tom tour’, whereby he circumnavigated the globe (shunning his usual annual installation at Salone del Mobile in April) to visit to his distributors in locations as diverse as Casablanca, Toronto, Cape Town, Reykjavik and Poland. America was in the spotlight, too, with Dixon opening a monobrand store in LA’s Culver City, while also relocating his New York outpost from Howard Street to an impressive three-storey showroom on the more prestigious Greene Street in SoHo. A Hong Kong showroom opened last year, also. So, world domination beckons. In the past seven years or so he has focused on producing affordable accessories from bar and glassware and coffee sets to gifting with scented candles, tea-light holders and doorstops. It’s lighting that remains his most successful product, though. It’s hard to dine out in most world cities now without spotting one of his bestselling Beat or Copper pendant lights. As for hotel lounges, cocktail bars and members’ clubs, his Wingback armchair – a shapely contemporary reinvention of a classic – has become a popular staple. Not bad for a comprehensive kid who left his Holland Park school with one A-level: a grade A in pottery. “I wasn’t very good at art. I wasn’t very good at school,” he recalls. “I went to a crap, failing comprehensive, but it had an amazing pottery department where I learnt the ability to convert a rough, greasy, ugly material into something semi-desirable – at least to my mother.” Today he makes a direct connection with this early foray into creativity with his studio’s output: “Raw materials are the beginnings of everything we do,” he says. A career in art or design initially seemed derailed when he dropped out of Chelsea School of Art to join the 1980s funk outfit Funkapolitan. He enjoyed a twoyear stint playing bass with them, touring with 1908s bands such as Simple Minds and The Clash. From there he segued into the nightclub business, which is where the welding comes in. Dixon first brandished his blow
117
TOM DIXON.indd 117
07/08/2018 21:01
torch as a live stage act for a regular Monday club night, but what started as entertainment morphed into something more tangible as his hand-welded salvaged furniture became popular with club goers – including the likes of photographer Mario Testino – who wanted to buy his pieces. His star was in the ascent. By the late 1980s he was working for the pioneering Italian furniture brand Cappellini, for whom he designed the S chair. For a contrarian who admits he spends his life trying to “stick out from the crowd” and who steadfastly refuses to conform to the usual interview narrative – eschewing “those favourites questions” – Dixon will at least concede that the S chair is important. “It gave me a global reputation and was Mirrorball Standing Chandelier something that I made with my own hands,” he says. “I made the first the loft living warehouse aesthetic that prototype out of scrap metal and then made defined the decade. Then a ten-year spell at a limited production batch in a rush, so it Terence Conran’s Habitat, first as head of became a mini mass production. Then it design and then creative director, taught became a Cappellini piece and went into him a few lessons in retail no doubt. Once MoMA. Now we have it back in my asked if he’d like to be considered as the next collection under my own name as a kind of Terence Conran, Dixon replied, “That prequel, and it still exists at Cappellini in its would be a great accolade, sure. I’d rather be interim form. So that one has followed me the first me though.” round in the way that nothing else has.” Fast forward to 2018 and Dixon is at the Since the 1990s he’s been a household helm of a global design brand, selling in 68 name in the UK, another breakthrough countries worldwide. He also runs an piece being the stackable polypropylene interiors subsidiary, Design Research Jack light that he produced with his own Studio, which has conceived high-profile company Eurolounge. Bold and fun, it was projects such as Shoreditch House, the perfect statement piece to accompany the Mondrian London at Sea Containers Melt Lights with Wingback Chair
Etch Pendant Lights
House for the US-based hotel group and a contemporary reinvention of Le Drugstore in Paris. His next restaurant project is closer to home. Dixon is partnering with Israeli chef Assaf Granit, who is co-owner of The Palomar and The Barbary in London, to open a 160-cover restaurant on the top floor and rooftop of his new headquarters this September. At a time when retail is suffering it seems brave to leap so enthusiastically into bricks and mortar, but it’s clear that Dixon intends to offer a richer proposition than most. “We didn’t just want a dusty old furniture shop. It was much better to have a combination of food, an active design and sales office and professional services all rolled into one. We’re bringing the workshop to the front of the retail experience with – if we get it right – adding world-class food, too,” he says. It may seem pioneering, but for Dixon who is the charismatic combination of arch antagonist and consummate performer (and who, incidentally, still plays in a band), it’s nothing new. “Mixing it up has always been interesting to me and demonstrating stuff was something I’ve done from the very beginning. I started off welding on stage. It’s all part of the entertainment business.” Tom Dixon Showroom 4-10 Bagley Walk Arches Coal Drops Yard, Kings Cross, N1 tomdixon.net
118
TOM DIXON.indd 118
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
07/08/2018 21:02
HOME & INTERIORS
Melt Smoke Pendant
Cut Surface Light Gold Wall Lights
Highlights from the new AW18 accessories collection
L
Tom Dixon’s O
N
D
O
N
GLOSSARY DESIGN STORES
I love Les Couilles du Chien on Golborne Road in Notting Hill for unusual antiques. The owner Jerome sources the most incredible pieces from around the world. Alfies Antiques in Marylebone is also brilliant. lescouillesduchien.com alfiesantiques.com
SIGNATURE STYLE
I really like Dover Street Market for its edit – Comme des Garçons is one of my favourite brands. My latest discovery is the excellent 18 Montrose – it just opened a shop in Kings Cross and stocks great labels plus interesting new designers. I recently wore some pieces from Ten C and Needles for a photo shoot. doverstreetmarket.com 18montrose.com
CALM IN THE CITY
TANK GLASSWARE
“Our Tank glassware and vases are very popular. It’s characterised by bands of copper, but we’ve added a stripy graphic decal this season. It’s an interesting way of showing the threedimensional character of each vessel and is more celebratory in feel.”
THE ROCK TABLETOP COLLECTION
“We’ve been working in marble for quite a long time already, but we discovered this beautifully patterned stone in Rajasthan called Forest Green marble and created the Rock tabletop collection. We like the way each piece is individual. There are chopping boards, stylish weights and candlesticks that are like a construction kit – architecture for your table.”
CAGE DIFFUSER
“I decided traditional style diffusers needed an update. My Cage diffuser is made from finely etched stainless steel and uses a single tea light that both warms the scented oil and spins the inbuilt fan, which diffuses and vaporises the scent. The studio has created an innovative slow-tech response to the plastic electronic diffusers that increasingly saturate the market.”
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
TOM DIXON.indd 119
I ride the custom-made, copper-plated Brompton bike I designed a few years back or my Moto Guzzi motorbike four miles every morning from my converted Water Tower home in Ladbroke Grove, Notting Hill, to my office. brompton.co.uk motoguzzi.com
FAVOURITE MARKET
I like browsing around Malby Street Market in the railway arches in Bermondsey. The gourmet food market is full of interesting artisan food and drink makers. maltby.st
CULTURAL PITSTOP
I've always been obsessed with The Science Museum ever since I was kid. It's still my favourite museum in London with more than 15,000 objects on display and puts on mind-blowing exhibitions. sciencemuseum.org.uk
BEST BITES
The Ruby & Violet truck on Granary Square in Kings Cross is the place to buy ice cream – so many flavours and it’s all made from organic milk. The salted caramel ice cream is my favourite. rubyviolet.co.uk
119
07/08/2018 21:02
L A S T WO R D
MY GLOSSARY LISA ELDRIDGE
The A-list make-up artist, YouTube sensation and jewellery designer Lisa Eldridge opens her little black book to the capital from gothic graveyards to the chicest cocktails Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT
HOME IS…
North London. It’s so green and as I’m very into walking, living close to Hampstead Heath is fantastic.
FAVOURITE RESTAURANT
Manna in Primrose Hill is my go-to local. It’s a cosy, low-key gourmet vegetarian restaurant – they put so much creativity and thought into their dishes. Everything is so flavoursome and visually pleasing. mannav.com
A FUN NIGHT OUT
I love The Fumoir in Claridge’s (pictured left), with its original art deco elegance and dark, shadowy ambience. I drink a French 75 [gin and champagne cocktail]. It’s my signature drink – it’s so chic and has such an interesting history. My friend, fashion illustrator David Downton has his residency there… we’ve had many a wild night. claridges.co.uk
FAVOURITE TERRACE
The newly refurbished Soho House in Greek Street. There’s a terrace on every floor, it’s the perfect place to have business meetings. sohohouse.com
FAVOURITE LANDMARK
Highgate Cemetery (pictured below) is phenomenal. It’s a Victorian gothic masterpiece and the resting place of pre-raphaelite muse and poet Elizabeth Siddal, who is one of the make-up muses in my book Facepaint. Christina Rossetti and George Elliot are also buried there. highgatecemetary.org
FAVOURITE GALLERY
I had my wedding reception at The Wallace Collection. It contains dazzling works of art, including rococo classics like Portrait Of Madame de Pompadour by François Boucher and The Swing by Fragonard (pictured middle bottom), plus many important pieces of furniture commissioned by Queen Marie-Antionette for Versailles. wallacecollection.org
THE EXHIBITION THAT MOST IMPRESSED ME RECENTLY IS…
Frida Kahlo – Making Her Self Up at the V&A. I was invited to the opening night and loved it. I was very touched to see her actual make-up on display as cosmetics played such a big part in her life.
MY GO-TO FASHION DESIGNERS
I prefer to buy vintage clothes. I love Lucinda Alford, who has a stall at Portobello Market on a Friday morning.
WHERE I WORK OUT
In addition to walks on Hampstead Heath, I work out twice a week with a brilliant yoga teacher called Ines Romanelli who comes to my house. inesromanelliyoga.com
TOP FACIALIST
Su-Man based at Agua Spa at Sanderson London does an amazing hybrid Shiatsuinspired facial, which also includes a firm deep
tissue body massage. Her treatments are absolute bliss and your face looks incredibly lifted and revitalised afterwards. Su-Man also has great skincare products. su-man.com
MY SIGNATURE SCENT
I like creating mixes with my various favourites, which change from season to season. At the moment I’m wearing Le Labo Rose 31 teamed with Prada D’iris.
I GET MY HAIR DONE BY…
Nicola Clarke at John Frieda for my colour, and George Northwood for cuts. nicolaclarkeatjohnfrieda.com georgenorthwood.com
BEST PLACE FOR A MASSAGE I go to Triyoga in Camden – they offer a wide variety of massage styles and holistic treatments and all of the therapists are brilliant. triyoga.co.uk
MY LATEST BEAUTY DISCOVERY
The NuFace (pictured left). It’s a face toning and firming machine that uses micro currents to stimulate collagen production. I apply aloe vera gel to my skin and then use it for 20 minutes every night. I’ve seen great results. mynuface.com
MY 5 SUMMER BEAUTY BUYS
Lancôme Absolue UV Precious Cells – I call it my ‘youth in a tube’. Omorovicza Hydra Melting Cleanser – It’s a gel that melts into an oil, then turns into an emulsion with water. It’s so refreshing in the heat. By Terry Ombre Blackstar Colour-Fix Cream Eyeshadow in Misty Rock – This adds definition but with a touch of shine. Dior Addict Lip Tattoo Color Juice in Watermelon – This vibrant pink tint stays put all day. Ra Oils Rose Mist – I keep this in the fridge for a cooling spritz.
MY RING COLLECTION Since 2011, when I started making YouTube make-up tutorials, I received so many queries about my rings so I decided to design my own range which launched this summer. My beautiful, colourful pieces are all handmade at small artisan workshops in the UK. The rings are housed in ‘powder puff’ boxes directly inspired by my vintage make-up collection. Available to buy at lisaeldridge.com and Dover Street Market
AQUA SPA AT THE SANDERSON
LISA’S STACKING RINGS, FROM £860
120
LISA ELDRIDGE.indd 120
THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
07/08/2018 21:17
À
LR_BP_The_Glossary_220x285.indd ROEDERER CHAMPAGNE FULL PAGE.indd 1 1
L A
R E C H E R C H E
D E
L ’ Œ U V R E
06/07/2017 11:06 07/07/2017 10:10
Full Page Ad.indt 1
28/09/2017 22:27