FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S
ISSUE TEN AUTU M N 2019 £5 WHERE SOLD
A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S
YOU R LO N DO N ST YLE GU I D E
THE ARTS & STYLE ISSUE
Nathalie Emmanuel
The Hollywood star models the new beauty trends
PLUS: Tim Walker’s WONDERFUL THINGS Luke Edward Hall on DESIGN Frieze COMES TO TOWN & Zandra Rhode’s LONDON
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CON I S S U E
T E N
Arts & Culture 09 AGENDA
Dates for your diary this season
16 DREAMSCAPE
Tim Walker’s fantastical fairytale exhibition opens at the V&A
22 THE BIG FRIEZE
Frieze comes to the capital with a packed programme of globally diverse art
Style
28 FASHION NOTES
The designers and trends on our radar
30 THE AUTUMN EDIT
These covetable buys will see you through the season in style
34 A NEW HIGH
The big fashion houses who are embracing innovation with these dazzling pieces
38 THE WATCH & JEWELLERY EDIT The latest openings and trends
Beauty & Wellness 42 BEAUTY NOTES
The latest news and products
44 GAME FACE
Nathalie Emmanuel models the new season beauty looks from Chanel’s AW19 collection and talks to The Glossary about her career
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N TENTS Autumn 2019
54 THE SKINCARE EDIT
Our new contributing beauty director, Alessandra Steinherr shares her secrets and favourite facialists
58 NEW FOUNDATIONS
Alessandra Steinherr tests the best new foundations
60 SCENTS OF STYLE
This season’s freshest new fragrances
64 MIND, BODY & SOUL
The latest beauty and wellness openings in the capital
Travel 82
TRAVEL NOTES
Global destinations
84 COUNTRY PURSUITS The UK’s buzziest new countryside hotels
Home & Interiors 90 92
68 RENEW & REDUX
Alessandra Steinherr visits Palace Merano Espace Henri Chanot in Italy, the spa emporium dedicated to detox
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76
TASTING NOTES
Where to eat and what to drink
LIFE & SOUL
LIVING COLOUR
Artist and interior designer Luke Edward Hall shares his design journey
Last Word
Food & Drink 74
DESIGN NOTES
Inspirations from the world of interiors
MY GLOSSARY
Zandra Rhode’s little black book of the capital
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The capital’s newest fun, fabulous and flamboyant openings
16 76
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GLOSSARY W E L C O M E
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t’s the start of a new season and the perfect time to hit refresh. Whether setting different goals, refocusing priorities or giving your wardrobe an overhaul, Autumn brings with it an opportunity to reassess and re-evaluate. Our cover star Nathalie Emmanuel is no stranger to change. Catapulted into the limelight as Missandei in Game of Thrones, she’s had to learn to adapt to her newfound fame. As Nathalie models Chanel’s AW19 collection, she talks about finding perspective, diversity in film and why she’ll always appreciate London’s unique blend of people and culture. It’s a huge season for art in the capital, not least with the arrival of Frieze London and its impressive roster of contemporary talent, both emerging and established. On page 22, we bring you the artists to look out for this year. If ever there was an exhibition to catch, it is Tim Walker: Wonderful Things which opened at the V&A in September. Clare Coulson pays homage to the fashion photographer and his fantastical fairytale images on page 16. While Tim is celebrated for his surrealist dreamscapes, artist, illustrator and interior designer Luke Edward Hall is all about bright, contrasting colours and playful, exuberant designs. He talks about the joys of maximalism and the inspiration behind his eclectic aesthetic on page 92. Shifting into autumnal fashion mode, we edit the biggest trends to have on your radar this season and curate the best bags, shoes and coats for the months ahead. We’re also delighted to welcome our new contributing beauty director Alessandra Steinherr, who brings with her a wealth of knowledge and expertise, plus her signature no-nonsense approach. In this issue, she shares her skincare must-haves and go-to facialists, and the best new foundations for flawless skin (page 54). Plus, she checks into exclusive detox resort, Palace Merano – Espace Henri Chenot in Italy for a mind and body reset (page 68). We also draw on the know-how of our restaurant editor Hilary Armstrong who reviews the capital’s latest openings, all of which are fabulous and flamboyant in equal measure (page 76). After all, Autumn may be about making changes but who says we can’t have a little fun while we’re doing it? Enjoy the issue - we hope it inspires you. Charlotte Adsett, Editorial & Style Director
THE GLOSSARY TEAM
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EDITORIAL & STYLE DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Harriet Cooper SUB EDITOR: Katie Wyartt EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Nicola Colyer
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ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton Contact us: editorial@theglossarymagazine.com advertising@theglossarymagazine.com
picks
AU T UM N
CONTRIBUTORS: Holly Black, Arved Colvin-Smith, Clare Coulson, Luke Edward Hall, Lisa Harvey, Kim Howells, Georgie Lane-Godfrey, Tabitha Lasley, Olivia Lidbury, Mollie McGuigan, Kay Montano, Sarah Royce-Greensill, Emine Saner
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CONTRIBUTING BEAUTY DIRECTOR: Alessandra Steinherr CONTRIBUTING WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR: Ming Liu CONTRIBUTING FOOD & DRINK EDITOR: Rachel Walker CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong CONTRIBUTING TRAVEL EDITOR: Lizzie Pook
Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 85 Great Portland Street, First Floor, London, W1W 7LT © 2019 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PETER PETROV Blouse, £795, modaoperandi.com; CHANEL Eyeshadow, £28, chanel.com THE VAMPIRE'S WIFE Dress, £995, thevampireswife.com; SHERYL LOWE Necklace, £5,598, modaoperandi.com MICHAEL KORS Platforms, £620, michaelkors.com; EMILIO PUCCI, Earrings, £170, emiliopucci.com PATEK PHILIPPE, Twenty-4 watch, £43,410, patekphilippe.com BIENEN-DAVIS, Bag, £2,500, matchesfashion.com
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Tim Walker, ‘Tilda Swinton’, Renishaw Hall, Derbyshire, 2018 ©Tim Walker Studio
Tim Walker
VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM 21 SEPTEMBER - 8 MARCH
This autumn, the V&A celebrates the fantastical imagination of fashion photographer Tim Walker with Tim Walker: Wonderful Things, the largest exhibition of his work to date. Alongside seminal images from Walker’s 25-year career, there are ten new photographic series inspired by treasures in the museum’s vast collection. See page 16 for a behind-the-scenes look at the show and an insight into the man behind the lens. vam.ac.uk
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Agenda W H A T ’S O N & W H E R E
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C O O P E R
MANON
ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
2 OCTOBER - 6 NOVEMBER The Royal Ballet performs choreographer Kenneth MacMillan’s passionate ballet about heroine Manon, who is torn between her true love for handsome young student Des Grieux and the life of luxury available to her as a mistress of wealthy Monsieur GM. MacMillan based the tragic tale - which is set to music by French composer Massenet - on an 18th-century novel that was initially banned when it came out in 1731.
roh.org.uk
Electric dreams
NAM JUNE PAIK 17 OCTOBER - 9 FEBRUARY
BURGERZ
SOUTHBANK CENTRE
TAT E M O D E R N
29 NOVEMBER - 1 DECEMBER
Experimental, playful, innovative… Nam June Paik was something of a visionary. The multi-disciplinary artist - born in Korea in 1932 - pioneered the use of TV and video in art, and coined the phrase “electronic superhighway” to predict the future of communication in the internet age. This exhibition highlights his collaborative artistic practice, notably a close association with cellist Charlotte Moorman (pictured), as well as partnerships with other avantgarde creatives including composer John Cage and Joseph Beuys. tate.org.uk
After someone threw a burger at them and shouted a transphobic slur, during which time no one intervened, London-based performance artist Travis Alabanza became obsessed with burgers. This radical solo show - part of a nationwide tour that has been hailed as timely, unsettling and powerful - is the culmination of Alabanza’s obsession, exploring gender, identity and how trans bodies survive.
southbankcentre.co.uk
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GAUGUIN PORTRAITS THE NATIONAL GALLERY 7 OCTOBER - 26 JANUARY This is the first-ever exhibition devoted to portraits by Paul Gauguin. Featuring around 50 works, the show spans Gauguin’s early life through to his later years in French Polynesia, underlining how the French Post-Impressionist painter revolutionised portraiture. It also brings together multiple works of the same sitter from collections around the world, allowing the viewer to understand how Gauguin interpreted a model in different media over time.
MARK LECKEY TATE BRITAIN
24 SEPTEMBER - 5 JANUARY Turner Prize winner Mark Leckey has always been intrigued by the relationship between popular culture and technology; in this ambitious show, Mark Leckey: O’ Magic Power of Bleakness, he has installed a life-size replica of a motorway bridge, which becomes the setting for a new audio play focusing on a group of teenagers, alongside never-seen-before video work and some of his most seminal pieces.
tate.org.uk
nationalgallery.org.uk
THEATRE
GLASS. KILL. BLUEBEARD. IMP. ROYAL COURT THEATRE
18 SEPTEMBER 12 OCTOBER
Caryl Churchill, often referred to as “Britain’s greatest living playwright”, is back at the Royal Court with four new short plays, directed by James Macdonald. Keen to retain an element of surprise for the audience, the content of the plays has been kept a secret; all we’ve been told is that the four stories are about “a girl made of glass. Gods and murders. A serial killer’s friends. And a secret in a bottle”. royalcourttheatre.com
TWO LADIES BRIDGE THEATRE
Zoë Wanamaker and Zrinka Cvitešićstar as Hélène and Sophia, the first ladies of France and America, respectively, in the world premiere of Nancy Harris’s new play, directed by former National Theatre boss Nicholas Hytner. As their husbands come to loggerheads, the two women find themselves alone in a room. With the stakes so high, can they trust each other - or, for that matter, their husbands? bridgetheatre.co.uk
In this gripping new play, adapted from Stanislaw Lem’s cult science-fiction novel, Kris Kelvin arrives at a research station on a remote planet to find one scientist dead and two who are seeing things that cannot be explained. Will Kris fall victim to the mystery of this strange planet, too? As the psychological thriller unfurls, it poses the question as to who we are when we’re forced to confront our deepest fears. lyric.co.uk
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Into The Night BARBICAN ART GALLERY 4 OCTOBER - 19 JANUARY This landmark exhibition gives an insight into the role of the world’s most iconic cabarets, cafés and clubs from the 1880s to the 1960s, many of which were hotbeds of creativity and radical thinking. From New York to Tehran, London to Mexico City, the show brings together more than 200 rare works that highlight the spirit of collaboration and experimentation at these avant-garde haunts where artists, performers, musicians and writers could exchange ideas and create new forms of artistic expression. There are also full-scale immersive reconstructions of selected spaces, complete with live performances.
barbican.org.uk
Clockwise from top left: Ramón Alva de la Canal, El Café de Nadie, 1970; Théophile-Alexandre Steinlen, Réouverture du Cabaret du Chat Noir, 1896; Rudolf Schlichter, Damenkneipe, 1925; Bertold Löffler, poster for the Fledermaus Cabaret, 1907; Unknown, Slide on the Razor, 1923
ANTONY GORMLEY
ROYAL ACADEMY
21 SEPTEMBER - 3 DECEMBER A mix of existing and specially conceived works, this solo show sees Antony Gormley employ scale, darkness and light using elemental, organic and industrial materials. With rarely exhibited sculptures from the late 1970s through to whole-room installations such as HOST (2019) an entire gallery filled with seawater and clay - the works are a summation of the sculptor’s fascination with the body as space, and the body in space. royalacademy.org.uk
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Bridget Riley HAYWARD GALLERY
23 OCTOBER - 26 JANUARY In the 1960s, British artist Bridget Riley evolved a style of painting - ‘Op art’ - which uses optical illusions. This major retrospective, the first in 16 years, puts particular emphasis on the origins of Riley’s perceptual paintings and traces pivotal moments in her acclaimed 70-year career. Expect to see some of her best-known canvases hanging alongside the only three-dimensional work she ever did, and more recent work including new wall paintings specially commissioned by the Hayward Gallery, as well as studies and preparatory material. southbankcentre.co.uk
TUTANKHAMUN SAATCHI GALLERY
2 NOVEMBER - 3 MAY The legend of Tutankhamun, the ancient Egyptian king who ascended the throne aged 9, has captured imaginations ever since his resplendent tomb was uncovered in 1922 by Howard Carter and Lord Carnarvon. Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh - part of a worldwide tour - brings together 150 original artefacts from his tomb, with 60 pieces travelling out of Egypt for the first and the last time before they are permanently installed in the Grand Egyptian Museum. tutankhamun-london.com
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Zandra Rhodes FASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM 27 SEPTEMBER - 26 JANUARY
Zandra Rhodes: Fifty Years of Fabulous is a vibrant celebration of the veteran, pink-haired fashion designer. In keeping with Rhodes’ unconventional style, the main gallery’s walls are dripping in gold, with the space hosting 50 looks - one from each year of her career - while hand-designed textiles hang in the mezzanine gallery. Additional exhibits include original drawings, costume designs and pieces worn by some of her clients including Diana, Princess of Wales, Freddie Mercury and Kate Moss.
ftmlondon.org
REMBRANDT ’S LIGHT DULWICH PICTURE GALLERY 4 OCTOBER - 2 FEBRUARY
It is 350 years since the death of Rembrandt - one of the greatest artists to have ever lived - and to mark the anniversary, this atmospheric exhibition focuses on the Dutch painter’s exceptional mastery of light and shadow. It collates 35 of his renowned paintings, etchings and drawings, highlighting the period from 1639 to 1658 when he lived on the Breestraat in Amsterdam and where he created some of his most exceptional work.
Above, from left: Rembrandt, Self Portrait; Christ and St Mary Magdalen at the Tomb; A Woman in Bed
dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk
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PRE-RAPHAELITE SISTERS NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY 17 OCTOBER - 26 JANUARY This timely exhibition focuses on the untold story of the women of Pre-Raphaelite art, 160 years after the first pictures were exhibited by the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood in 1849. Through paintings, photographs, manuscripts and personal items - many previously unseen - it explores the significant role these females played as artists, models and muses who sustained the 19th-century artistic movement.
npg.org.uk
DON GIOVANNI ROYAL OPERA HOUSE 16 SEPTEMBER - 10 OCTOBER
The Royal Opera House autumn season sees the return of a classic – Don Giovanni, Mozart’s 18thcentury comidrama packed full of emotive characters, fast-moving action and, of course, a dazzling score. In Kasper Holten’s visually striking production, with sets by award-winning designer Es Devlin, a cast of international singers – some familiar, others making debuts – perform. roh.org.uk
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A R T S & C U LT U R E
Dreamscape Tim Walker’s fantastical fairytale images have captivated us for more than two decades. This autumn, the V&A pays homage to the fashion photographer with the largest exhibition of his work yet Words CLARE COULSON
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F
ew photographers - past or present - have conjured up such rich and magical images as Tim Walker. His extraordinary shoots, which channel folklore and literature, theatre and history, often involve surreal or larger-than-life worlds that we can all be inspired by or escape into, like fairy tales come to life. After art school in Exeter and a stint assisting the legendary Richard Avedon in New York, Walker’s first commission, aged just 25, for Vogue, was to shoot Iris Palmer in a land girl fantasy at his mother’s Devon cottage. And so began his idiosyncratic blend of nostalgia, romance and mesmerising storytelling that has helped him carve a niche in the fashion world, shooting for British, Italian and American Vogue, W magazine, Love and iD, and winning one-man shows at the Design Museum (in 2008) and Somerset House (in 2012). But this autumn, the V&A, which has been collecting Walker’s work since 1998, will open his largest exhibition to date and it’s unlike any other retrospective they’ve staged before. Tim Walker: Wonderful Things will begin with a look at 100 images from Walker’s previous projects and extracts from his Super 8 films. Spanning fashion, portraiture and nudes, they feature the East London-based photographer’s favourite muses, including Tilda Swinton and the artist Grayson Perry, as well as some of the biggest names in fashion such as Edie Campbell, Stella Tennant, Alexander McQueen and Rick Previous page: Xiao Wen Ju, Harleth Kuusik, Yumi Lambert, Owens, and performers from Saoirse & Nastya Sten (twice). Fashion: Alexander McQueen, ‘The Girl Ronan to Solange Knowles. Who Lived in the Tree’, A/W Visitors will then be immersed in ten new 2008. London, 2014; projects, inspired by pieces in the museum’s Left page: Bjork for W magazine, 2017 permanent collections - including Indian This page, from top: Duckie miniatures, Constable paintings and ivory Thot for Italian Vogue, 2018; carvings, that Walker discovered over many Above right: Kate Moss and John Galliano, auto-portraits. months diving into some of the institution’s Fashion: John Galliano. six million artefacts and meeting with London, 2013; Left: Agyness Deyn for archivists, conservators, technicians and British Vogue, 2015. even the team that make the packing crates for travelling exhibits.
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“T
he V&A has always been a palace of dreams - it’s the most inspiring place in the world. The museum’s collection is so wide and eclectic, and I think that’s why it resonates with me so much,” says Walker of this true passion project. “Many of the objects that I saw during my research at the museum made my heart swell and I wanted to try to create a photograph that would relate not only to the physical presence and beauty of that object, but also to my emotional reaction to it. Each new shoot is a love letter to an object from the V&A collection, and an attempt to capture my encounter with the sublime.” Each shoot will be displayed as an atmospheric miniature world (complete with sets by long-time collaborator Shona Heath and evocative soundtracks) and each one begins with an introduction written by the photographer, which will plunge visitors right into Walker’s mind-boggling creative process. “He’s never just photographing these objects - it’s about the stories that those things spark in his mind,” says the V&A’s curator of photography Susanna Brown, who started developing the show in 2015. One shoot concept began with an exquisite embroidered casket made by a teenage girl around 1675 that Walker found in the museum’s Clothworkers’ archive. “It’s completely magical and it took our breath away,” says Brown of the box that revealed a tiny garden complete with plants, flowers, fruit trees and tiny figures. “As soon as Tim saw it he said: ‘It reminds me of an iPhone; it’s a place where you can store your secrets - your personal world in a box.’ And that’s very typical of the way that his mind works he always finds a contemporary relevance when he is looking at these historical things.”
Above: Lil' Dragon Ling Ling and the Dragon Fashion: Marta Hermosillo Lopez and Eelko London, 2018; Below: Mari Hirao and Yui Yamamoto operating Gen H-4 flying machines. Nagano, Japan, 2016
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A R T S & C U LT U R E
That little box has been blown up to an awe-inducing life-size recreation that provides the backdrop for a fashion story featuring clothes inspired by 17th century costumes from the V&A collections. Many of the new shoots function exactly as Walker’s editorial commissions and feature an array of incredible stylists and creatives including Amanda Harlech, Edward Enninful and Zoe Bedeaux. Perhaps what’s most intriguing about Walker’s fantastical images is that they are all created with locations, sets and props, plus heaps of imagination and hard work - not with Photoshop or any other digital hocuspocus. Typical of Walker’s soaring ambition is a new film, The Steadfast Tin Soldier, which was created for the exhibition and which reimagines a Hans Christian Andersen tale as a love story between a tin soldier and a knight. The film, which will be shown in the museum’s new photography centre, features a newly commissioned ballet, costumes based on paper dolls found in the V&A Museum of Childhood and stunning sets by Shona Heath.
“He’s never just photographing these objects - it’s about the stories that those things spark in his mind” While Walker dreams up these wondrous worlds and stories, it takes vast teams to bring them to life, including, of course, the models. One of them is supermodel Karen Elson, whose ethereal beauty has made her one of Walker’s favourite models over more than two decades, in which she has played dolls, dreamers, debutantes and a roll call of other colourful characters in locations all over the world. “Tim knows my face, my body, my mind,” says Elson in the book that accompanies the exhibition. “And I know him: I know him as an artist, I know him as a creator so we speak without words. It’s a certain movement, a certain feeling that portrays the character that I know telepathically that Tim wants from me.”
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All images © Tim Walker Studio
The show will also shine a light on all of the other roles involved in creating Walker’s incredible worlds, which Susanna Brown hopes will inspire a new generation of image-makers. “Really, the heart of the show is this idea of creative collaboration,” she says. “It’s about a journey that Tim goes on with other people: stylists, hair and make-up, the set builders. He is the conductor of the orchestra - it’s a dance that he does with all of these people. And it shows how you don’t have to be the photographer; there are lots of other jobs in the creative industries - there are all these other brilliant people and this is the work they do.” And for Walker, who is vocal about modern childhood and the importance of firing young imaginations, there can be no better outcome. Tim Walker: Wonderful Things at the V&A until March 8 2020. vam.ac.uk Shoot For The Moon, Tim Walker Published by Thames & Hudson
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Art Focus
BIG
The
Frieze represents all that is exciting about contemporary art, its ever-expanding programme of immersive sideshows strengthening its impact on London and the art world. This year’s edition has to be the most globally diverse yet Interview HOLLY BLACK
I
f you’ve taken a stroll through Regent’s Park recently, you may have noticed some unusual additions scattered across the lawns and hidden among the foliage, from an enormous bronze figure by Tracey Emin, to Robert Indiana’s collection of sizeable steel numbers, One Through Zero. This injection of world-renowned art was the work of Frieze Sculpture, an expansive, three-month, free outdoor exhibition that attests to Frieze Fairs’ ever-expanding influence across the city - not to mention its counterparts in New York and LA. For one week each year, in October, the entire art world looks to London, and while the act of buying and selling work remains significant for dealers and collectors, it is but one facet of a huge cultural affair that signals major exhibition openings, talks, events, screenings, performances and even other fairs. For its 16th iteration, and with Britain still firmly under the shadow of Brexit, Frieze London embraced a distinctly international outlook, fulfilling Director Victoria Siddall’s promise that it would be the most globally diverse edition to date and would “embody the exceptional international spirit of London”. This includes a swathe of galleries exhibiting for the first time, from Taipei’s Chi-Wen, which counts Victoria Sin and Tao Hui among its artists, to Tiwani Contemporary in London, which champions artists from the African diaspora, including the 2018 Frieze Artist Award recipient, Kapwani Kiwanga. This year, the gallery presented Joy Labinjo, whose paintings depict the intimacies of life among her BritishNigerian family. She will soon have a major exhibition at BALTIC in Gateshead.
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Yinka Shonibare CBE Clementia, 2018, Fibreglass sculpture, hand-painted with Batik pattern and steelbase plate or plinth Figure: 143.5 x 81 x 53 cm Plinth: 70 x 90 x 70 cm
Misheck Masamvu Pinky Scratch, 2018, Oil on canvas, Work: 192 x 169 cm
A R T S & C U LT U R E
Frieze is often cited as one of the major players responsible for rejuvenating London’s art scene back in the early 2000s. To this day, new galleries and cultural centres continue to flock to the city, including Goodman Gallery, which recently inaugurated its new space in the nascent Cork Street arts development. Liza Essers, owner and director of the South African gallery, explains why now is the right moment to pitch up in the capital: “It is time for a gallery from the African continent to play more of a frontline role in shaping international arts discourse. In this global moment of heightened nationalist sentiment propelled by populist politics, it is more important than ever to reach across borders.” For its Frieze presentation, a changing roster of artists paired in dialogue showcased the incredible talent that the gallery champions. For example, British artist Yinka Shonibare, famed for his batikcovered sculptures and reimaginings of colonial histories, was exhibited with Zimbabwean painter Misheck Masamvu, who considers each mark or gesture to be part of a network of subconscious signs and symbols.
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Other highlights included New York Gallery Sikkema Jenkins & Co, which presented work by Kara Walker, to coincide with her much-anticipated, site-specific commission in Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall. Her explorations of systemic racism range from paper silhouettes that reference offensive stereotypes, to sculptures that highlight the pervasive legacy of slavery within cultural institutions, commerce and philanthropy. Meanwhile, at Frieze Masters (the fair counterpart that looks beyond the contemporary) Lisson Gallery celebrated the legacy of the late, great Susan Hiller, featuring some of the artist’s earliest works, as well as those spanning her decades of art production. Gallery Hyundai commemorated another sizeable legacy with a solo booth dedicated to Nam June Paik, the prophetic Korean-American video artist who is also the subject of a major retrospective at Tate Modern. He is cited as the man behind the term ‘electronic superhighway’, which foretold the coming of the digital revolution. With so many galleries participating in the main fairs, one might be forgiven for forgetting the other projects Frieze has to offer, which are often the most intriguing.
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A R T S & C U LT U R E Kapwani Kiwanga Desire Paths: Langa, 2017
female artists. “Together, these eight solo presentations make visible the histories and continuous legacies of the colonial catastrophe, from the economies around textiles to current forms of exploitation and political complicity,” he said. While the impact of these mini-sections isn’t entirely intangible, previous years, through presentations such as Sex Work and Social Work, have shown that a concerted effort to champion lesser-known artists who have disrupted the status quo can actively change collecting habits and bring about unprecedented levels of recognition. Moving beyond the booths, the Frieze Live programme offers a selection of performances that take place among the fair throng, delighting and baffling visitors in equal measure. Last year saw Julie Scher’s female security guards patrol in pink uniforms, while Laure Prouvost’s opera singer broadcast snatches of overheard conversations throughout the fair. The 2019 iteration, however, aimed “to inspire a physical form of thinking where solutions can be found and felt within the body”. In other words, Frieze Live was to focus on the expanded field of dance and choreography, including the wild, animalistic movements of Cecilia Bengolea and her performers, as well as William Forsythe’s radical interpretations of classical ballet. One final, timely new commission comes from Himali Singh Soin, winner of the 2019 Frieze Artist Award. The London- and Delhibased artist’s film we are opposite like that builds on her ongoing research project into remote areas of the Arctic and Antarctic circles and draws parallels with the Victorian fear that Britain would be overtaken by arctic ice. As the present-day implications of climate change prove that this could not be further from the truth, Singh Soin posits a wider question: has the country always feared the encroachment of the outside world?
“It’s a huge cultural affair that signals major exhibition openings, talks, events, screenings, performances and even other fairs”
For example, the title for this year’s themed section was Woven, which brought together eight artists who explore textiles in their practice. This section explodes the idea that weaving, sewing, knitting and material production are confined to the realms of the domestic or applied arts, and instead celebrates indigenous heritage and underground traditions, while challenging colonial histories. These include Mrinalini Mukherjee’s sculptures conceived from dyed hemp and natural rope, and Pacita Abad’s brightly coloured abstract mixed-media pieces that are influenced by Islamic
Filipino textiles and Italian quilting techniques. Visitors were also treated to Unearthly Delights, a ‘cosmic night garden’ conceived by Chitra Ganesh. Curator Cosmin Costinas had high expectations for Woven, which would hopefully build on the impact of previous years’ sections that championed overlooked
frieze.com
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David Goldblatt Woman resting on her way to work, De Villiers Street Park, Johannesburg, 1975, Silver gelatin photograph
Above: Hank Willis Thomas To life abundant (pink and gold on black), 2018, Screenprint on retroreflective vinyl, 86.4 x 133.3 cm; Right: Kudzanai Chiurai We Live in Silence III, 2017, Single Channel Film Below left: Alfredo Jaar Teach Us To Outgrow Our Madness, 1995, Neon Below right: Kapwani Kiwanga Rumours that Maji was a lie, 2014, Mixed media installation
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GILLIAN ANDERSON
C A N A RY W H A R F | G E R R A R D S C R O S S | M A R L O W
WINSERLONDON.COM
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STYLE Out of this world Missoni’s Winter 2019 campaign photographed by Mert & Marcus and featuring supermodels Bella Hadid and Adut Akech (pictured) is set against an arrid and volcanic landscape for an other-worldly direction that explores new shapes and colours for the knitwear label. missoni.com
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Fashion Notes
The new buzz brands to know, trench coats reimagined and Michael Kors gets down to Studio 54 Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
THE JETSET
Nothing epitomises glamorous getaways more than Emilio Pucci’s rainbow-hued swirl print silk pieces. Get ready for the winter holiday sun season with the Italian label’s resort collection full of upscale leisurewear à la Slim Aarons.
pucci.com
Talent Show
Always on the look-out for something new that everyone else isn’t already wearing? Bookmark Net-a-Porter’s The Vanguard for new fashion talent discovered on Instagram and supported through a global mentorship programme. Buzz brands of note include handbag label Le Sant and sustainable design studio Bite Studio.
net-a-porter.com
DISCO D A Z E
Lip Service
SPREAD THE LOVE Following the success of her debut collection, Gillian Anderson has launched her second capsule collection for Winser London. Stand-out workwear and weekend staples include this lips logo cashmere blend jumper — 20% of the net sales of the knit will go to Gillian’s chosen charity, Women for Women International which helps female survivors of war rebuild their lives.
winserlondon.com
ALL TIED UP
Founded by Barbara Borghini, cult footwear label Gia Couture is best known for its elegant and chic Bandana Girl 55 pumps (£375) with a signature bow that adorn the feet of the fashion set day to night. brownsfashion.co.uk
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RETURN OF THE MAC Riccardo Tisci’s AW19 Tempest collection for Burberry focuses on the contrasts and contradictions in British culture and weather, as seen in the new campaign shots by Nick Knight and Danko Steiner, the latter who photographed models wearing the iconic trench coat, reimagined with punky safety pins, faux fur and puffed collars, by the sea. burberry.com
Michael Kors AW19 collection is inspired by the 70s glamour of Studio 54, with glittering sequin dresses and chainmail bags perfect for dancing the night away. “The very first time I walked in the door, I knew that the mix of style, energy and glamour was truly special,” the designer said. The capsule will be available at the new Michael Kors Collection boutique, in the heart of Mayfair. Spread across six storeys, the elegant townhouse-turnedconcept store has a luxury VIP salon which offers private shopping appointments for clients who can request bespoke alterations, including choosing fabrics for key pieces and tailoring tweaks. 9 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, W1
BOMBER JACKET, £3,390
SEQUIN DRESS, £7,195
FRINGED DRESS, £3,650
BAG, £1,190
FEATHER BOA, £690 PLATFORMS, £620
LEATHER TRENCH COAT, £5,000
michaelkors.com
BANCROFT SEQUIN BAG, £890
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Wool jacket, £1,150
Wool jacket, £1,250
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THE
Autumn EDIT
THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO AUTUMN'S MUST-HAVE BAGS, BOOTS, SHOES & COATS Fashion CHARLOTTE ADSETT
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STYLE
Bags MONO TONE
ANIMAL PRINT
COLOUR POP
TOTES
MONOTONE From left: BOYY Bobby 23 bag, £1,014, modaoperandi.com; PRADA Two-Tone bag, £2,600, prada.com SAINT LAURENT Noe bag, £1,000, net-a-porter.com; CHLOË Aby bag, £1,250, matchesfashion.com ANIMAL PRINT From left: WANDLER Hortensia bag, £780, net-a-porter.com; MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Simone bag, £1,650, michaelkors.co.uk SAINT LAURENT Cassandra bag, £1,690, farfetch.com; EDIE PARKER Leopard print bag, £636, modaoperandi.com COLOUR POP From left: Kan U bag, £2,390, matchesfashion.com; GUCCI Twill trimmed bag, £2,220, net-a-porter.com MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Mia bag, £1,520, michaelkors.co.uk; LOEWE Puzzle bag, £1,725, matchesfashion.com TOTES Opposite page: DIOR Book bag, £2,200, dior.com; This page from left: Monogram bag, £1,390, burberry.com; FENDI Runaway bag, £1,690, net-a-porter.com LIBERTY LONDON Dusk Iphis Marlborough bag, £550, libertylondon.com; GUCCI Rajah bag, £1,680, gucci.com
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Coats
TRENCH
From left: STELLA McCARTNEY Prince of Wales coat, £2,090, stellamccartney.com; SEA Leopard print coat, £685, net-a-porter.com MARC JACOBS Star-Inset coat, £8,140, modaoperandi.com; BURBERRY Button panel detail coat, £2,990, farfetch.com; JW ANDERSON Garbadine coat, £1,350, matchesfashion.com; MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Denim military coat, £1,750, michaelkors.co.uk
PRINCESS
TAILORED
From left: MARC JACOBS The Sunday Best coat, £915, 24s.com; MIU MIU Velvet-trimmed coat, £2,695, mytheresa.com PUCCI Double breasted coat, £1,260, yoox.com; AZZEDINE ALAIA Midi Velvet coat, £6,650, maison-alaia.com GUCCI Belted velvet coat, £2,700, gucci.com; PUSHBUTTON Crepe coat, £560, net-a-porter.com
From left: SAINT LAURENT Leopard print coat, £2,335, net-a-porter.com; Y/PROJECT Draped wool coat, £1,560, modaoperandi.com GUCCI Wool blend coat, £2,900, net-a-porter.com; MOTHER OF PEARL Mable coat, £695, motherofpearl.co.uk WINSER LONDON British tweed coat, £599, winserlondon.com; RTA Andy metallic coat, £975, net-a-porter.com
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STYLE ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER £965 farfetch.com
MIU MIU £635 miumiu.com GIVENCHY £1,065 libertylondon.com
PIERRE HARDY £995 pierrehardy.com ALEXANDER WANG £780 net-a-porter.com
CHRISTOPHER KANE £825 christopherkane.com
Boots Ankle
SAINT LAURENT £520 ysl.com
LIUD MILA £675 farfetch.com
SAINT LAURENT £1,300 ysl.com
CHRISTOPHER KANE £645 christopherkane.com PRADA £890 prada.com
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION £620 michaelkors.co.uk CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN £1,165 christianlouboutin.com
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN £565 christianlouboutin.com
PRADA £545 prada.com
OSMAN £430 matchesfashion.com
GIVENCHY £790 farfetch.com
PRADA £610 prada.com
MALONE SOULIERS £525 matchesfashion.com
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MARNI £520 farfetch.com
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TATIANA VERSTRAETEN
New kid on the high jewellery block Tatiana Verstraeten is beloved by couture clients and editors alike for her free-flowing, dancefloor-friendly take on precious diamond jewellery. The feather boa-like Barbara necklace is a favourite.
ANA KHOURI
18ct white gold and diamond Barbara necklace, POA
A practising sculptor, Ana Khouri aims to create new forms of jewellery that fuse to a woman’s body. This year, she played with volume and movement, setting diamond briolettes to slither up the earlobe and dance as the wearer talks. 18ct white gold and diamond briolette Delphine ear piece, POA
Fine Jewellery
A New
High
With couture clients looking for edge and versatility, contemporary high jewellery embraces innovation - not least from the big fashion houses Words SARAH ROYCE-GREENSILL
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STYLE LOUIS VUITTON
The debut high jewellery collection from Francesca Amfitheatrof, Riders of the Knights pays homage to medieval heroines. The Reine necklace features 153 carats of regal Santa Maria aquamarines, their diamond settings marked with Louis Vuitton house symbols. 18ct white gold, platinum, aquamarine and diamond La Reine necklace, POA
GRAFF
Inspired by Cy Twombly’s graffitilike scribbles, these earrings showcase the skill and precision of Graff ’s Bond Street workshop. Sapphires and diamonds are cut in-house to fit the fluid design, finished with two unique blue sapphire briolettes. Sapphire and diamond Inspired by Twombly earrings, POA
eople-watching opportunities don’t come much more dazzling than at the Ritz Paris during Haute Couture Fashion Week. Paparazzi loiter outside, and stiletto-clad editors strut across the marble-and-gold-leaf lobby. We’re here to see the ultimate in creative expression from some of the world’s finest jewellers, as well as that of some of the best known fashion houses. Just like couture fashion, high jewellery is all about unique, exceptionally crafted pieces that push the boundaries of jewellery design, and are made from only the finest raw materials. Today, at the Ritz, it’s the turn of New York-based jeweller Ana Khouri to present her latest creations to us. On show in a flower-filled suite, Khouri’s jewels bear little resemblance to those worn when César Ritz opened the hotel in 1898. Diamond chokers are asymmetrically embellished with coloured gemstones; chunky rings are miniature tyres of blackened gold and diamonds; ear cuffs creep up the lobe, dangling diamond briolettes in their wake. “Lightness and movement are always paramount,” says Khouri. “I don’t want my designs to simply adorn - my goal is to spin precious materials into something that is much more than an extravagant accessory.” Khouri’s contemporary approach is all around us on the prestigious Place Vendôme. Modern couture clients’ busy lifestyles call for versatile jewels that can be dressed up or down; worn, if not quite from boardroom to ballroom, then in a multitude of different situations. Van Cleef & Arpels has form in this area: in 1950 it created the highly original Zip necklace, which transforms into a bracelet. Transformability features in many of the creations in this year’s Romeo & Juliet collection, as it does in Chanel’s Paris Russe de Chanel range, inspired by Coco Chanel’s obsession with Russia. Chanel is a major player in haute joaillerie, producing more collections than any other fashion house, and playing a key role in the growing presence of fashion houses in the rarefied world of high jewellery.
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DAUPHIN
Independent maison Dauphin is celebrating its fifth anniversary with its most experimental designs yet. Earrings take their cue from the multiplepiercing trend, with diamond cables precisely engineered to hang harmoniously beneath the lobe. 18ct white gold and diamond Parabole earrings, POA
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DE BEERS
Named the Knysna Chameleon ring after the stone’s colour-changing characteristics, a four-carat, olive-green diamond is encircled by a detachable halo of rough coloured stones, providing a versatile switch between minimalist solitaire and eye-grabbing cocktail ring. Fancy-coloured diamond, white diamond and rough diamond Knysna Chameleon ring, POA
This year, Louis Vuitton unveiled the first couture collection from creative director Francesca Amfitheatrof, inspired by medieval heroines: strong and architectural, with subtle references to the beloved LV monogram. But it was Gucci that everyone was talking about in Paris, as it marked the opening of its new boutique on Place Vendôme with a debut high jewellery collection, which translated Alessandro Michele’s maximalist aesthetic into a rainbow of precious metal and gemstones. Significantly, the collection comprised 200 unique pieces (high jewellery collections typically consist or around 60 pieces), making clear its intention to become a major player in haute joaillerie. An objective that was quickly realised, with many of the pieces being sold on the first day of presentations, the innovative designs proving just as popular with the high-networth spenders as its clothes are with the fashion crowd on the front row. Tatiana Verstraeten, a former Chanel accessories designer who launched her eponymous jewellery house last year, believes that to appeal to today's couture clients high jewellery pieces should work equally well with jeans as an evening dress. Verstraeten’s couture creations include a showstopping necklace of flexible diamond fronds, alongside fringes of diamondstudded chains that sway from the earlobes with Studio 54 appeal. “There’s no need for high jewellery to be oldfashioned or restrictive,” she says. “I wanted
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Inspired by Shakespeare’s most famous love story, Van Cleef’s collection is replete with subtle references to the play. The Rose Montague necklace is adorned with a detachable rose, which, when removed, leaves a streamlined collar of sapphires and diamonds. Rose Montague Necklace, diamonds sapphires and rubies set in white and rose gold, POA
to offer women the chance to wear an outstanding piece that’s young and sensual, that moves with her body.” Valerie Messika goes one step further: her diamond chains link ear cuff to nose ring, typical of her rock’n’roll approach. “My aim was always to desacralise diamonds - I wanted them to be cool, casual and easy to wear every day,” says Messika, the daughter of a diamond dealer who launched her brand in 2005. One of the first customers to buy a €1m Messika piece was a 35-yearold woman in search of high jewellery that she would wear, not keep in a safe. This contemporary approach hasn’t been ignored by the grande dames. dames Graff ’s latest pieces marry exceptional gemstones with daring design, inspired by the work of contemporary artist Cy Twombly. Meanwhile, 239-year-old house Chaumet might be known for its historic tiaras, but its collections are imbued with a 21st-century irreverence. An array of gemstones - from tsavorites and tourmalines to spinels and topaz - inject life into earrings that splay outwards like a fairytale couture gown. Colour is also a focus for De Beers and de Grisogono, whose high jewellery creations showcase the beauty of coloured diamonds, far beyond D-flawless stones. “We have access to some of the most beautiful diamonds in the world, including rough diamonds, which have a mystical quality,” says Grace Lepard, head of design at De Beers. “They make each piece unique.”
GUCCI
Gucci’s foray into high jewellery did not disappoint fans of Alessandro Michele’s maximalist aesthetic. This double-headed tiger ring, set with tsavorites and spinels, has echoes of the antique pieces that jewellery fanatic Michele collects. 18ct white gold, spinel, tsavorite and diamond Tiger Head ring, POA
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STYLE
DE GRISOGONO
Innovative Swiss house De Grisogono pays no heed to traditional high-jewellery rules: it celebrates black and brown diamonds previously thought only suitable for industrial use - in designs dubbed ‘Modern Beauties’, with more than a hint of rock’n’roll. 18ct white gold, 18ct pink gold, white and brown diamond necklace, POA
CHAUMET
Chaumet was shooting for the stars with its latest collection, Les Ciels de Chaumet. These Lueurs d’Orage (thunderstorm) earrings use a painterly array of precious gemstones to depict the skies before the heavens open. 18ct white gold, 18ct yellow gold, imperial topaz, rhodolite garnet, morganite, sapphire and diamond Lueurs d’Orage earrings, POA
CHANEL
Coco Chanel was a Russophile, despite never travelling to the country. The Blé Maria tiara calls to mind the vibrant colours of traditional Russian folk clothing, and is one of the most youthful pieces in the house’s Slavic-inspired collection. 18ct yellow gold, 18ct white gold, spinel, mandarin garnet, tourmaline and diamond Blé Maria tiara, POA
MESSIKA
A frontrunner of the modern approach to diamonds, Messika’s high jewellery is imbued with the same edge as the house’s everyday pieces. A fancy yellow heartshaped diamond balances between the fingers in this tattooinspired design. 18ct white gold, fancy yellow diamond and white diamond ring, POA
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The
Watch&Jewellery EDIT
LONDON’S DAZZLING NEW OPENINGS, TRENDS AND STATEMENT PIECES Compiled by MING LIU
S U N S E E K E R The sun is a key motif for Piaget, and Sunlight - its latest collection of fine jewellery - references the golden orb in earrings, necklaces and rings. The pieces feature white opal and mother-of-pearl dressed in a burst of diamond-set white and rose gold ‘rays’, as worn by long-time Piaget brand ambassador Olivia Palermo. From £2,150. 169 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1
piaget.com
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Rock Fever There’s another reason to visit the Luxury Jewellery Room at Harrods - Amrapali’s pioneering new Gem Bar, a rotating display of coloured gemstones where customers can play with a host of exceptional loose precious and semi-precious stones, including an electric 9-carat Mozambique Paraiba tourmaline and a mesmerising 16.6-carat Sri Lankan yellow sapphire. Specialists from the Jaipur-based jeweller will be on hand to share the origins and heritage of each stone, as well as assisting customers in creating a bespoke piece of jewellery.
87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1
Chain Reaction
Get Lucky
Parisian fine jeweller Valérie Messika, whose eponymous brand is known for its timeless yet contemporary pieces, has appointed a trio of ‘modern heroines’ – Kate Moss, Dutch actress Sylvia Hoeks and model Joan Smalls (pictured) - to front the house's Lucky Move collection of street-style carabiner chains that are set with diamond-pavé, talisman-like medallions.
New Boutique
NIQUESA
messika.com
In November, Italian jeweller Niquesa will open its first standalone shop in the capital on Draycott Avenue - a diamond’s throw from its atelier. Niquesa’s whimsical designs notably nod to dance, opera and nature, and will be stocked alongside Hearts, a vibrant collection of sapphire and diamond designs that have been created to celebrate the new space.
106 Draycott Avenue, Chelsea, SW3 niquesafinejewellery.com
Fa c e T i m e
Catherine Deneuve, Romy Schneider and Jeanne Moreau are just a few of the style icons who propelled the oval-shaped Cartier Baignoire watch to cult status in the Swinging Sixties. Now, the jeweller has revisited the era with 12 bold and dazzling re-issues that reflect a modern vintage vibe. £21,400.
175-177 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1 cartier.com
Three Mosaic Watches to watch out for As art season in the capital continues apace, these refined mosaic watches will keep you suitably on-theme. e glass micro-mosaic fish design on Hermès’ Arceau Grands Fonds (£POA) is based on a 1992 silk scarf by French artist Annie Faivre; each dial takes a month to painstakingly create. Harry Winston’’s jazzy Premier Precious Micromosaic (£POA) pieces are more bejewelled, mixing diamonds with hand-set glass from Ravenna, Italy. And the playful La Mini D de Dior Mosaïque (£3,100) channels the house’s fashion legacy with woven, rainbow-coloured textile straps.
hermes.com; harrywinston.com; dior.com THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM
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BEAUTY
Pure Essence In her first official role as Chanel’s new fragrance ambassador, Margot Robbie is the face of the French fashion house’s new perfume, Gabrielle Chanel Essence (£118). A reinvention of Gabrielle Chanel, this new update centres on bold notes of four white flowers: Grasse tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and orange blossom for a muskier and more intense finish. chanel.com
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Beauty Notes
Ayurvedic hair care, the dream concealer and Victoria Beckham Beauty finally launches Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
Cover Up
The search is over, we’ve found the concealer of our dreams... Clé de Peau Beauté’s Concealer SPF25 comes in six shades and has a rich, creamy texture which spreads evenly onto skin, covering blemishes and dark circles. The easy-to-use glide-on stick has just landed exclusively at Harrods as part of the cult Japanese make-up and skincare titan's launch into London. £55.
harrods.com
Smooth Operator
Say yes to Chanel’s newest handbag essential, Le Li La Crème Main. Taking inspiration from anti-ageing skincare, the 90% naturally-derived cream promises youthful-looking hands thanks to a blend of botanical alfalfa concentrate (a retinol alternative) and brightening liquorice extract. Smoother, firmer and more even-toned skin delivered in the chicest of packages. £55,
chanel.com
Catwalk Trend
LASH OUT Voluminous Twiggy-esque lashes have made a major return this season. At the Brandon Maxwell AW19 show, make-up artist Tom Pecheux created a Bambi look with “tonnes of layers” of MAC In Extreme Dimension Black Lash Mascara (£20) and false eyelashes.
mac.com
Ancient Wisdom
Natural haircare brand Chāmpo – the Sanskrit word for shampoo and pronounced char-pour – combines ancient Ayurvedic principles with modern trichology and active botanicals. Choose from three ranges, each formulated to suit a specific hair Dosha: the Vata blend is brilliant for hydration, Kapha restores oily roots and Pitta builds fullness and body for fine, thin hair.
champohaircare.com
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T H E E Y E S H AV E I T
Save the Date
Box of Delights is year’s beauty advent calendars are brimming with decadent treats - from scented candles to the latest serums for the countdown to Christmas, from Liberty’s legendary calendar (bo om; libertylondon.com; £215) to the luxe Harrods Beauty Advent Calendar (middle; harrods.com; £250). And Cult Beauty (top; cultbeauty.com; £195) launches its first ever calendar with hero products from its most iconic brands.
Victoria Beckham Beauty has landed, launching with Victoria’s Smoky Eye Wardrobe - an 11-piece collection comprising three products: Smoky Eye Brick eyeshadow compact, (£48); Lid Lustre crystal-infused (£28); and Satin Kajal eyeliner, eyeshadow, (£28) (£20). The cruelty-free range focuses on clean (£20) beauty, sustainability and inclusivity, with wider collections across makeup, skincare, fragrance and wellness coming soon. victoriabeckhambeauty.com
Skin Saviour
BODY WORK
e highly anticipated follow-up to e Rich Cream, £205 (le ) the covetable face cream that caused a frenzy among beauty editors and celebrities when it launched last year, is e Body Cream, £130 which contains the same magic ingredient created by German biomedical scientist Augustinus Bader. Bader’s patented TFC8 formula targets dormant skin cells, reawakening them and causing self-regeneration. Made with 99% natural ingredients, this nourishing body cream is also packed with hydrating Brazilian candeia oil and vitamin-rich shea butter. Expect real results fast: in trials 92% of women said their cellulite was reduced and skin felt much firmer and plumper.
augustinusbader.com
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GAME FACE Game of Thrones has led to global stardom for Nathalie Emmanuel. Here she models the new season beauty looks from Chanel's AW19 collection and talks about diversity in film, telling female stories and finding her style Photography ARVED COLVIN-SMITH Words EMINE SANER
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Bronze Metallics FACE Ultra Le Teint Velvet Ultra-Light and Longwearing Formula (worn throughout) EYES Signature de CHANEL Intense Longwear Eyeliner Pen 10 - Noir; Stylo Yeux Waterproof LongLasting Eyeliner 88 - Noir Intense; Ombre Première Eyelid Gloss 057 - Lunaire LIPS Rouge Coco Gloss 816 - Laque Noire; 814 - Crystal Clear (mix of the two lipglosses) BODY Le Gel Pailleté Shimmering Gel NAILS Le Vernis Longwear Nail Colour 559 - Frenzy HANDS Le Lift La Crème Main
Eighties Eyes (previous page) SKIN Le Lift Sérum EYES Les 4 Ombres Multi-Effect Quadra Eyeshadow 306 - Splendeur et Audace; Ombre Premiére Iridescent Eyeshadow Top Coat 317 - Carte Blanche; Le Volume Ultra-Noir de CHANEL Mascara 90 - Noir Intense LIPS Rouge Allure Ink 212 - Metallic Purple
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T COMES AS NO SURPRISE THAT NATHALIE EMMANUEL LIKES A STATEMENT LIPSTICK.
After spending any amount of time talking to her, it’s clear that lipstick doesn’t merely represent a welcome pop of colour (though, of course, it is that too). It’s also unapologetic, impactful. “I think it’s always kind of frowned upon when you say that you like things about yourself,” she says. But she likes her lips. “So I wear bright colours and show them off a bit. It makes me feel strong and empowered; it’s a way to express yourself, your mood that day.” It’s always fun, she says, “to play around with different looks”. As a successful actor, she’s no stranger to playing diverse roles. Best known as Missandei in Game of Thrones, her character’s tragic end sparked one of the hottest talking points of the year. Now Emmanuel is busier than ever - when we speak she is about to fly to the US to film her recurring role as a hacker in the latest Fast and Furious franchise; she also recently played the lead in Mindy Kaling’s TV adaptation of Four Weddings and a Funeral as Maya, an American political speechwriter. At 30, her career is going stellar and people are taking notice. And yet, Emmanuel remains resolutely grounded. She describes her everyday style as “pretty simple, just T-shirts and jeans.” Although for events she now has a stylist, Cher Coulter. “She’s really great as she gets what I like and what I don’t like, but she also challenges me to be a bit daring. There were definitely things that I thought I could never wear and that didn’t fit my body, and actually she has just taught me the benefits of a good tailor.” A lesson that has clearly paid off with the column inches devoted to Emmanuel’s red-carpet looks in recent months. Emmanuel has an equally down-to-earth attitude when it comes to body image; vegan for seven years, she can’t remember the last time she stood on a pair of scales. “I’m just done torturing myself about that stuff.” She has a personal trainer four times a week and “a lot of our training is goal-based as opposed to weight-based.” Exercise, she says, is as much about taking care of her mental health as physical. Last year, she trained as a yoga teacher during a Game of Thrones filming break. Her love of yoga began more than ten years ago when she was “going through a stressful time with work and personally. I needed to go and find something to do by myself ”. These days, she practices it when she can. “Things can be crazy sometimes, so it allows me time to check in with myself for an hour. I like to use it to find out how I feel, find some stillness and peace. You are just noting what is going on with you and switching your brain off for a while. When I’m away from family, friends or home it can be a source of solace and it can make me do my job better.” It’s hard to believe that there was a time when this thoughtful, poised woman was considering giving up acting. Her career, which had begun so well - she was cast in the West End production of The Lion King when she was ten, and had worked on the teen soap Hollyoaks for several years - was stalling and she was working in a clothes shop. After spotting a casting call for a young, nonwhite actor to join the TV show Game of Thrones, she decided to give it another shot, auditioning and getting the role of Missandei, the clever and willowy translator and right-hand woman of the all-powerful Daenerys Targaryen. She joined the show - already successful, though not yet the huge phenomenon it became in its third series.
“I like experimenting with make-up. It makes me feel strong and empowered; it’s a way to express yourself and your mood”
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Matte Red Lip Skin Le Lift Sérum; Le Lift Crème Riche Eyes Le Volume Ultra-Noir de CHANEL Mascara 90 - Noir Intense Lips Rouge Allure Ink Fusion 818 - True Red Nails Le Vernis Longwear Nail Colour 559 - Frenzy Hands Le Lift La Crème Main
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Clean Skin Skin Hydra Beauty Lotion Very Moist; Hydra Beauty Camellia Water Cream; Le Lift Sérum Face Baume Essentiel Moisturising Highlighting Balm in Transparent Eyes Blue Serum Eye Lips Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care Nails Le Vernis Longwear Nail Colour 559 - Frenzy Hands Le Lift La Crème Main
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“It changed my life,” she says. “Before I’d even shot the part, I was getting auditions again, because of the credibility the show had. All of a sudden, casting directors who didn’t want to see the exsoap star were like ‘we’ve got this part you might be good for’, because it validated me. It shows the fickle, superficial nature of this industry. I’m so grateful because it put me on a different level and my life has not been the same since.” Emmanuel grew up in Southendon-Sea with an older sister, and it was her mother who encouraged her to go to singing and dancing classes to boost her confidence. “I had a shyness about me - and I still do but I think I’ve got better at dealing with it. My mum would have drama with me every time she dropped me off at nursery or school. I just wanted to be with her all the time, and it was chaos.” Emmanuel credits her mum with keeping her grounded. She is a carer for adults with learning disabilities and Emmanuel has been around the people she works with all her life. As a child, she would be taken to work with her mum, who couldn’t afford childcare, during school holidays; when she was a teenager, her mum’s clients would come to stay with the family. “The amazing environment she created gave us a perspective,” says Emmanuel. “You have to meet people where they’re at, not be judgmental; be compassionate. We’ve always had a very grounded upbringing because of her, and the work she does.” As for her friends back home, “they just see the frizzy-haired, glasseswearing Nat. I’m the person they’ve known, as opposed to this actress or sort of celebrity, whatever that means. I don’t see myself that way but the world might”. Despite her rising fame, she still manages to get around London, where she lives, largely unnoticed. “My day-today life is pretty much the same,” she says, although she admits she does get stopped more. “Usually people are pretty cool and polite but there are times when I do wish I was invisible as it slows you down.” She loves the capital city, she says, for its diversity. “You can get all kinds of food, you can listen to all kinds of music. Being a mixed woman of colour, I embody, physically, the city’s blend of culture and people, and I love London for that. It’s meant I’ve made friends from all kinds of backgrounds and cultures.”
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Gothic Romance Eyes Le Volume Ultra-Noir de CHANEL Mascara 90 - Noir Intense; Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner 88 - Noir Intense; Les 4 Ombres Multi-Effect Quadra Eyeshadow 334 - Modern Glamour and 332 - Noir Suprême Lips Rouge Allure Ink Fusion 828 - Rouge Noir; Rouge Coco Gloss 816 - Laque Noire Nails Le Vernis Longwear Nail Colour 713 - Pure Black Hands Le Lift La Crème Main
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“Things can be crazy sometimes, so yoga allows me time to check in with myself for an hour. I like to use it to find out how I feel, find some stillness and some peace”
Has she noticed her industry becoming more diverse? “We are seeing much more inclusive casting and I’m seeing a lot more women and people of colour behind the camera in terms of writers and producers, but I still think that we have a really long way to go in that respect.” She loves the director Ava DuVernay, who made Selma, “and obviously Mindy Kaling, who is just killing it, writing and producing and just being an all-round badass lady boss”. It’s an exciting time, she says. “There is loads of wonderful work coming up, with people getting an opportunity when maybe five years ago they weren’t even getting a look-in. It’s something that I actively want to be involved in, whether it’s producing or writing - getting behind projects and trying to use the platform and privilege that I’ve acquired over the years, to help someone else tell a story. For me, it’s about trying to bring as many people to the table as possible.” She grew up not seeing girls who looked like her represented. “Seeing me exist in the media tells some child somewhere that there is space for them in the world. It’s quite emotional to think about and talk about.” When Emmanuel went to see DuVernay’s film Wrinkle in Time, in which the lead character is played by Storm Reid, who is black, “I cried in the cinema because she was smart, had curly hair and goes through this journey of learning to love herself. It spoke so much to me and I wondered where this movie was when I was ten? It was so beautiful,” she says. Emmanuel believes the #MeToo movement has also had a noticeable impact on the industry. “It’s definitely changed the way people interact in a professional setting, which is very welcome.” She says she hasn’t experienced any serious abuse or assault that other actresses have reported but “I have been made to feel uncomfortable on many occasions by people who have been too familiar or affectionate, and they’re definitely abusing their position.” Before the #MeToo movement, she says she was aware that women are “put in a position where we have to appease the person who is being inappropriate - to do it in a way that keeps their ego intact, and [keeps] you safe, and your peace of mind intact”. She says she has “always been quite vocal and able to let my position be known” but has become more empowered to “shut certain conversations or behaviours down more quickly. I’m very grateful for that. I think #MeToo has given women working in the industry a voice. It can still be scary to come forward and speak up but I think that now, because we have actively said that we are not allowing it anymore, women have more confidence.” Still, she says, there’s more work to be done. “To sort this we have to address the culture of objectifying women, sexualising women and young girls”. And when someone such as Donald Trump can be elected, after talking about “grabbing women”, “it just makes me feel like those issues are not important”. Is there anything career-wise she would have done differently? “Not really,” she says. “I don’t regret anything because I see everything as a lesson. There are times when I wish I had spoken up, and defended myself more, and defended others more. I think a lot of the time we get scared, especially as women, to speak up because you don’t want to be ‘difficult’. Now, I’m much more capable of [speaking up], even if my heart is in my throat the whole time. I’ve realised it’s important that I do. We need to dismantle this idea that by speaking up we’re a problem - if we were men no one would say we were problematic.” If Emmanuel has a plan for the future, it is to continue to work hard in as many roles that stretch and challenge her as possible, though she’s also talking about creating her own work, and perhaps one day going back to university. “I definitely have a passion for trying something new,” she says. “I’m looking for that next thing and what fits.”
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Sixties Monochrome Skin Le Lift Sérum Eyes Les 4 Ombres Multi-Effect Quadra Eyeshadow 334 - Modern Glamour mixed with Ombre Première Iridescent Eyeshadow Top Coat 317 - Carte Blanche; Signature de CHANEL Intense Longwear Eyeliner Pen 10 - Noir; Le Volume Ultra-Noir de CHANEL Mascara 90 - Noir Intense; Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner 949 - Blanc Graphique Cheeks Poudre Universelle Libre Loose Powder 40 - Doré - Translucent 3 Lips Rouge Allure Ink Fusion 802 - Beige Naturel mixed with Rouge Allure Ink in 204 - Metallic Bronze Nails Le Vernis Longwear Nail Colour 711 - Pure White Hands Le Lift La Crème Main All make-up and skincare used throughout by CHANEL, available at chanel.com
Photography by Arved Colvin-Smith Fashion by Kim Howells Fashion assistant Emi Papanikola All make-up by Kay Montano at The Wall Group using Noir et Blanc de CHANEL and Rouge Allure Ink Fusion All nails by Ami Streets using CHANEL Le Vernis and CHANEL Le Lift La Crème Main Hair by Adrian Clark using Moroccan Oil All clothes and accessories, CHANEL AW19, available at chanel.com
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My Beauty Glossary
THE
SKINCARE
EM D I T From power products to her favourite facialists, our new contributing beauty director and revered industry expert Alessandra Steinherr shares her skincare secrets
T
his is the season to switch up your skincare products and routines. In summer, the focus should be on protecting the skin, and on antioxidants and light hydration. Autumn and early winter is the time to ‘go deeper’ if you so wish, turning to retinoids, acids and in-office procedures such as microneedling and lasers. Why? You don’t have to worry as much about sun sensitivity, so you can use more active ingredients (though please do make sure you use at least SPF30 daily, even throughout the bitter winter months, to protect freshly resurfaced skin). Whatever you decide to do, your first priority should be protecting your skin barrier - the acid mantle. I don’t believe in being too harsh or stripping; you can achieve real results using actives wisely. And, remember, everyone’s skin and biochemistry is different. It’s easy to get mesmerised by incrediblesounding claims - resist the urge to go allin; instead, introduce new ingredients and treatments slowly. Using the wrong products on our skin, or even too much of the right ones, can result in inflammatory reactions and a whole new set of problems. And who needs that? Here’s my guide to the most effective ingredients and real-deal products.
THE BIG A - RETINOIDS October is an ideal month to introduce retinol, the skincare ingredient which builds collagen, fights blemishes, helps fade spots, and softens fine lines and wrinkles. To add to its plus points: it’s not age-based and can be very effective on acneic skin, it’s also an antioxidant, which means it protects from free radicals. Retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A so it has to be converted into retinoic acid and the conversion process is optimal on non-acidic skin. Therefore, avoid using acids (such as a peel) and a retinol at the same time - being overzealous and throwing the entire bathroom cabinet at your skin will do more harm than good. Instead, use an acid and a retinol on alternate days, or apply one in the morning and the other in the evening. Personally, I recommend using retinol at night because retinoids decompose in UV light. Dr Michael Prager Skincare Urban Protect Night Oil (£195) is effective, while the Medik8 r-Retinoate range ( from £20) is a more gentle type of retinol that has been shown to work on delicate skins. A word of caution: retinol is notorious for initially causing dryness, redness and peeling. The key is to introduce it slowly and use sparingly (a pea-sized amount). Either use your retinoid and then layer a nourishing cream over it or stagger your introduction. I suggest using it two nights in a row then having a night off, and don’t use any other active products like acids at the same time.
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS THE BRIGHT KID - VITAMIN C
THE GENTLE ALTERNATIVE BAKUCHIOL Retinol may work for a lot of people but, traditionally, not for me - I don’t want the potential dryness and redness it can cause. If, like me, your skin is too sensitive for a retinoid, try bakuchiol as an alternative. A plant extract that’s been used in skincare for years for its anti-inflammatory properties, it is 100% natural and is more gentle on skin, so you won’t get any irritation or inflammation. Results may take longer, but on the upside you’ll avoid the side effects. Two that I rate are Oskia Super 16 Anti-Ageing Super Serum (£88) and Herbivore’s Bakuchiol (£45).
THE SOOTHER - VITAMIN K Vitamin K has something of a reputation for speeding up the healing of bruises, and many brands specifically use it in undereye products for its anti-inflammatory action. I don’t want to mislead people, though; if you have genetic under-eye darkness, no topical product is going to get rid of it. However, if the darkness is from lack of sleep, then a product containing Vitamin K can be helpful, like Omorovicza Reviving Eye Cream (£82).
Vitamin C is a powerhouse antioxidant; it brightens, boosts radiance, promotes a more even skin tone, and helps fade sun damage (though for severe hyperpigmentation visiting a dermatologist would be best), so it’s a superb ingredient to use post-holidays. The problem with Vitamin C is that as soon as you expose it to the air, it oxidises and starts degrading. This is why I’m excited about the brand new Elizabeth Arden Vitamin C Ceramide Capsules Radiance Renewal Serum ( from £42). The single-dose capsules mean the Vitamin C won’t lose its potency, plus the ceramides nourish the skin and add luminosity. I also rate the cult classic Dr Sebagh Vitamin C Powder Cream ( from £21). The small test-tube vials are filled with a stabilised powder so you can tap out a small amount to mix with your favourite serum or apply directly to the skin - it magically transforms into a cream on application. Finally, the good thing about Vitamin C is that it absorbs better at a low PH, so you can use it after an acid. However do bear in mind that Vitamin C is also an acid, so if you have very delicate skin this could potentially be irritating.
THE MULTI-TASKER NIACINAMIDE Niacinamide, aka Vitamin B3, is a gentler alternative to Vitamin C. It’s water soluble, meaning that you’ll typically find it in water-based serums. It’s also an incredibly stable active ingredient; Vitamins A and C are unstable, so as soon as they are exposed to daylight they disintegrate, whereas niacinamide has a neutral PH, not to mention it’s non-acidic and non-irritating. Used topically, niacinamide boosts cellular metabolism, giving the cells energy to carry out their function. If you are prone to sensitivity, it is fantastic - it is antiinflammatory and can help with redness, it’s also antimicrobial and protects from free radicals, regulates oil production, can fade pigmentation, help with fine lines, reduce dryness... I’m a big fan. Try Alpha-H Vitamin B Serum and Paula’s Choice Niacinamide Booster (£41) at 10% concentration (you want to go between 5 and 10%). Skinceuticals Discolouration Defence (£85) has 5% niacinamide, supported by other ingredients, to specifically treat hyperpigmentation.
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS THE REFRESHERS EXFOLIATING ACIDS There are multiple benefits to using a chemical exfoliator (these can be in the form of acid toners, exfoliating pads, serums and masks). Generally delivering a more controlled form of exfoliation than manual scrubs, they can alleviate blemishes, smooth fine lines, unclog pores, fade pigmentation, brighten and, even, hydrate. There are two types of acid, AHA and BHA. AHAs such as glycolic, lactic and malic acid target the surface layer of skin, so they’re the ones for peeling away dull, dead skin cells; whereas a BHA (which is mainly Salicylic Acid) helps unclog pores because it’s oil soluble. Which one you use totally depends on your skin. If your main concern is clogged pores, oiliness, blackheads and pimples, then go for a BHA. I would use an AHA for fine lines and radiance. Dr Sebagh Deep Exfoliating Mask (£59) is an AHA, a combination of azelaic and lactic acid. You rinse the mask off and it leaves skin incredibly soft honestly, it’s amazing. But it’s not one you’d use every day, it is more of a treat. Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 (£63) is a classic, too. If you’re after a pure BHA try The Ordinary range and a Korean brand called COSRX - their BHA Blackhead Power Liquid (£26) is really effective. Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Instant Resurfacing Peel (£63) is a blend of both so if you’re someone who wants an all-rounder, this is a bathroom cabinet must-have.
THE GLOWY-FIER - HYALURONIC ACID Don’t let the word acid confuse you. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is not an exfoliating acid; quite the contrary. It is, in fact, naturally occurring in our bodies and functions as a lubricator for our joints, eyes, hair and skin, giving the latter its plump and supple appearance. Dehydration is one of the number one causes of a lacklustre complexion, especially in autumn and winter with the inclement weather and central heating robbing our skin of moisture. Applied topically, HA draws water to the skin, so it’s great for keeping hydration levels up; incorporating a hyaluronic acid serum into your skincare regime will help keep skin plump. There are two new ones worth looking at - Lancome Advanced Génifique Serum ( from £59.50) and Decléor Antidote (£48). In order to get the best benefits from your HA serum, always seal it with a moisturiser on top - if you’re in the market for a hydrating, ultra-rich cream the new Tom Ford Research Creme Concentrate (£320) is beautiful.
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MY SKIN SAVIOURS The change of season is an opportune time to have a facial therapist look at your skin, assess what damage has occurred over the warmer months, do a deep clean and tweak your routine. The key to healthy skin is, of course, sticking to your daily regime, but supplementing it by seeing a professional once a month will put you on the path to a perma-glowing complexion.
TARRYN WARREN
Tarryn, who works out of Bodyism in Notting Hill, is a uniquely gifted therapist. She is incredibly experienced, having honed her craft at some of London’s best salons and a residency at my favourite spa in Austria . She likes to use brands like Omorovicza and Niod and offers a wide range of techniques including lymphatic drainage, facial acupuncture and microneedling. Tarryn tailors her treatments depending on what you need at that given time - in all the years I’ve been going, I have never had the same facial twice. She is at the forefront of what’s going on, but always has a gentle approach. I never leave Tarryn with blotchy skin – I always look glowy. 222-224 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, W11; bodyism.com
PFEFFER SAL
Tucked away in Fitzrovia, this intimate boutique salon mixes a very holistic beauty and wellbeing philosophy with cuttingedge machinery and high-tech treatments. The salon stocks some incredible skincare brands that you can’t get anywhere else (I always spend a fortune on products when I leave). If you’re considering having IPL for broken capillaries or spots, this would be my recommendation. They also do everything from peels to LED lights, vitamin infusions and microneedling, and are experts when it comes to pigmentation issues. The Stables, Warren Mews, Fitzrovia, W1; pfeffersal.com
KATE KERR
Kate, who can be found at the agua Spa at Sea Containers Hotel, is the queen when it comes to anything to do with blotchy, blemished, oily skin. I’ve never seen anyone so amazing at helping people who have persistent breakouts, she’s absolutely phenomenal. If you’re looking for clear skin, Kate can help. 20 Upper Ground, Southwark, SE1; katekerrlondon.co.uk
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Experience Vitamin C skin care at its most potent. Dr Sebagh Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream delivers a stabilised and highly concentrated dose of pharmaceutical grade Vitamin C which is only activated on contact with your skin. Mix with any Dr Sebagh serum, exfoliating mask or moisturiser for an instant and powerful brightening boost with antioxidant protection against external aggressors. It can also be applied directly on its own to help lighten brown spots. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
My Beauty Glossary
FOUNDATIONS T h e
b y
b e s t
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A L E S S A N D R A
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S T E I N H E R R
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t’s hard to find ‘the one’ – the perfect foundation that works for every occasion. You may have a certain skin type but in terms of coverage and finish – depending on whether you’re at work, out in the evening or on holiday - you probably have different requirements, whether matt, glowy or long-lasting. Personally, I have a foundation wardrobe. I’m excited by all the recent launches, which offer brand-new formulations and so many shade options, which means that everyone can find the right one to suit them. This is my edit of the best new bases that are real beauty game-changers.
Clarins Everlasting Youth Fluid, £35
clarins.co.uk This is great for a more mature complexion because it contains skincare ingredients, so you’re getting colour plus care. It’s more of a radiance boosting, firming formulation for someone who doesn’t want their foundation to set into their expression lines.
Pat McGrath Skin Fetish Sublime Perfection Foundation, £60
patmcgrath.com If you’re struggling to find a foundation to match your skin tone this would be a great place to go, as it comes in 36 different shades that are categorised by undertones. It is a natural, second-skin foundation and is very buildable - it makes your skin look incredible.
Chanel Ultra Le Teint Velvet £37
chanel.com This is very matt, making it ideal if you’ve got more of an oily skin and really don’t want any shine. It’s also so light that anybody who doesn't like heaviness or too much texture can wear it - it doesn't feel tacky at all.
Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Foundation, £34 charlottetilbury.com
Guerlain Parure Gold Gold Radiance Foundation £63
This foundation gives full coverage but doesn't look chalky or dull - it gives the complexion a luminous glow. It also feels super light. It’s a great one for anyone who leads a busy lifestyle and needs to do their make-up in the morning, go to work and be done with it.
guerlain.com This is a reformulation of an existing product and is beautifully hydrating, so it’s really great for drier skin. What’s nice is that it’s sweatand humidity-proof as well. And the texture is gorgeous - it gives more of a satiny finish, leaving the complexion illuminated.
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Pick of the Primers
The Multi-Tasker
Two new primers which stand out for me are the Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Hydrating Primer (£34), which gives a real glow, and the Dior Backstage Face and Body Primer (£27.50) in the shade Universal. As we go into winter, when it is cold outside and the heating is on indoors, these primers boost the skin, add a bit of hydration and also help foundation stay put.
By Terry’s cult-beloved Hyaluronic HydraPowder, (£42), is now available in eight tinted hues. Like a real-life Instagram filter this powder sets make-up and also blurs pores, controls shine and lends a luminous matte finish that won’t settle in fine lines and, thanks to the hyaluronic acid, keeps the skin hydrated.
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Kjaer Weis
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ACQUA DI PARMA SIGNATURES OF THE SUN Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £197
Signatures of the Sun is a new collection of ten vibrant fragrances ‘filtered through the prism’ of Acqua di Parma’s classic Colonia scent. Five are re-releases from the Ingredients collection (Oud, Leather, Sandalo, Ambra and Quercia), five are all-new citrusy-floral fragrances with oriental roots: Yuzu features spicy Sichuan pepper, mimosa, jasmine, violet and lotus flower; Osmanthus mixes the fresh, sparkling scents of green mandarin with neroli patchouli; Vaniglia, inspired by Madacasgar, features sweet vanilla tones infused with neroli and jasmine; Sakura combines the flower of the Japanese cherry tree with tones of yellow mandarin and bergamot; and Camelia pairs vibrant citrus notes with the delicate scent of the precious oriental rose.
acquadiparma.com
Scents of
STYLE THIS SEASON’S FRESHEST NEW FRAGRANCES Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT
DIPTYQUE
ESSENCES INSENSÉES Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £170
Based on the exotic tiare flower from the island of Tahiti, this fourth addition to the harvest-based Essences Insensées collection mixes lively green notes that conjure the freshness of a gentle ocean breeze with pink pepper, vanilla absolute and frangipani for an uncomplicated finish.
diptyqueparis.com
REPLICA COFFEE BREAK
Eau de Toilette, £100ml, £95 A new unisex fragrance from French fashion house Maison Margiela, combines the aromas of roasted Arabica beans, lavender blossoms and frothed milk for a spicy, floral scent which encapsulates the ambience of a cosy café on a cold winter’s day.
selfridges.com
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
CHANEL
GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £118
A warm, more opulent interpretation of the original Gabrielle Chanel fragrance, this scent also pays tribute to the bold, independent character of Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. Evoking the passion and inner strength of its namesake, master perfumer Olivier Polge has combined the white flowers of jasmine, ylang-ylang and orange blossom with big hit of creamy tuberose for a voluptuous and sensual scent.
chanel.com
VERONIQUE GABAI
SOUVENIRS DE TUNISIE Eau de Parfum, 85ml, £255
MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN
A love letter to the Côte d'Azur, Veronique Gabai is a brand new fragrance line comprising of nine signature perfumes, all of which come in refillable golden bottles. is white floral is tempered by fresh notes of orange blossom, sandalwood, bergamot and neroli, and sweetened by almond, giving it an intense, slightly mysterious air.
AMYRIS FEMME
Eau de parfum, 70ml, £150
A flamboyant encounter between the Amyris tree from Jamaica and the rare Iris from Florence, this scent conjures the warmth of a sunset. Surrounded by a luminous bouquet of lemon blossom, pear and sweet pea, the blend is underscored by accords of woody, musky amber.
franciskurkdjian.com
libertylondon.com
LALIQUE SOLEIL
Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £100 Inspired by a burst of golden morning light, this glorious fragrance was conceived by Alexandra Moner, Barbara Zoebelein and Benoist Lapouza. A gourmand composition, its blend of cardamom, pear granita, mandarin juice and bitter almond is wrapped in a swirl of jasmine petals and white musk.
lalique.com
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BYREDO
SLOW DANCE
Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £165
Masculine and feminine, bitter and sweet, this fragrance channels the innocence and experience of a first slow dance. Its top note of honeylike opoponax is blended with a floral pop of geranium, violet and labdanum and finished with patchouli and vanilla for a touch of warmth.
byredo.com
GUCCI
MÉMOIRE D’UNE ODEUR Eau de parfum, 100ml, £92
Blended by master perfumer Alberto Morillas, this nostalgic scent ‘transcends gender and time’. A musky blend of Roman chamomile and Indian coral jasmine petals is teamed with an irresistible vanilla note and designed to explore the power of memories, bringing the past into the present.
gucci.com
HERMES
TWILLY D’HERMÈS EAU POIVRÉE Eau de Parfum, 85ml, £108
Created as a tribute to the youthful spirit of the Hermès girl, Christine Nagel’s woody and spicy update of Twilly weaves ginger and sensual tuberose with the vibrant heat of pink peppercorn and smoky patchouli.
hermes.com
TIMOTHY HAN HEART OF DARKNESS Eau de Parfum, 60ml, £140
e fi h fragrance from the niche perfumer is inspired by Joseph Conrad’s 1899 novella. Its watery green floral notes, aromas of dark woods and damp moss and hints of burning coal and amber evoke the story’s voyage by steamer up the Congo River and into the unknown.
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T H E G L O S S A RY PA R T N E R S H I P
Floral
TRIBUTE The newest release in the Lalique Crystal Limited Edition collection, Orchidée is the embodiment of fine craftsmanship
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enowned for its exquisite decorative glassware and jewellery since it was founded by René Lalique in 1888, Lalique has, more recently, made a name for itself in the world of fragrance. After producing delicate glass and crystal bottles for the perfume industry since the 1900s, working with prestigious brands such as Coty, Houbigant, Worth and Guerlain, in 1992, Lalique launched its own elegant fragrance, Lalique de Lalique. Bringing together the brand’s pedigree in both glassmaking and fine perfumery, the Lalique Crystal Limited Editions are yearly releases of the House’s signature fragrance, held in limited-edition crystal flacons that are inspired by the work of René Lalique. The latest addition to the Lalique Crystal Edition stable is Orchidée, inspired by the floral muse behind some of René Lalique’s most beautiful glass designs. An exotic flower that became a symbol of Art Nouveau, the rare and precious orchid is a fitting adornment for the floral and feminine Lalique de Lalique. Orchidée represents the exceptional craftsmanship of the master glassmakers at the cristallerie Lalique: the rounded crystal flacon features delicate gold orchids and is sealed with an intricate orchid-petal stopper. Limited to just 1,500 pieces, each one is individually numbered and signed, and sure to become a collector’s item. £1,000 (250ml) lalique.com
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
MIND, BODY & SOUL WHETHER YOU WANT A HOLISTIC MASSAGE, CRYOTHERAPY OR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING, THESE ARE THE BEST NEW WELLNESS AND BEAUTY OPENINGS ACROSS THE CAPITAL
Urban Retreat KNIGHTSBRIDGE
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fter closing its doors in Harrods, Urban Retreat has moved around the corner, occupying a 12,000sq ft, five-storey house on Hans Crescent. The brainchild of Urban Retreat Managing Director Reena Hammer, The White House offers medical and holistic doctors, anti-ageing practitioners and beauty experts – all under one roof. The basement is a detox haven, with the Khera-Griggs Cleanse Clinic offering diagnostic testing, results-driven Inner and Outer Body Cleanse programmes, infra-red saunas and extensive mind, body and spirit enhancing treatment sessions, as well as a private, soundproof one-to-one fitness studio for yoga, pilates and meditation. Spread throughout the rest of the building there’s a hair salon and men’s barber; flagship CND nail lab; SumanBrows brow bar, where eyebrow queen Suman Jalaf and her team will be offering microblading, threading, tinting and shaping; a body art studio; and IV infusion lounge. There’s also huge ground-floor retail space complete with consultation tables around the fireplace (giving it a private members’ club feel) as well as FlavoUR, a 40-cover restaurant serving up healthy goodness. 2-4 Hans Crescent, Knightsbridge, SW1 urbanretreat.co.uk
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Linnaean NINE ELMS
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ocated in new riverside development Embassy Gardens, Linnaean is a health, beauty and lifestyle concept store which bills itself as a “complete, curated retreat for the busy urbanite”. Inspired by the Swedish naturalist Carl Linnaeus and designed by the internationally-revered Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, it’s a unique one-stop shop focusing on hair and beauty, relaxation and self-care. The wellness and beauty space features four treatment rooms, offering the latest non-invasive and non-surgical treatments from the likes of Orveda, Susanne Kaufmann, Zelens and Skinceuticals, many using cutting-edge technology, alongside more traditional salon offerings, plus manicure and pedicure stations. The hair salon boasts an award-winning team, whose innovative colour technology includes the use of sustainable, vegan, ammoniafree products, while the boutique is a veritable modern-day apothecary stocking niche, globally-sourced brands. The all-day restaurant is designed to compliment the spa by offering a nourishing plant-based menu with gut-friendly pre- and probiotic options, alongside adaptogenic superfoods, such as Maca Root and Siberian Ginseng, and low GI alternatives. Embassy Gardens, Nine Elms, SW11 linnaean.co.uk
Apogii Clinic NOTTING HILL
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uring her career as an international show jumper, Danish Notting Hill resident Emilie Martinsen-Konigsfeldt recognised the importance of looking after the body and skin through regular, results-driven maintenance treatments. So she opened Apogii, a two-floor wellness clinic on Westbourne Grove, which offers myriad non-invasive options for skin and body, using state-of-the-art equipment and technology. The USP, however, has to be the Apogii Icelab - London’s first medical-grade whole-body cryotherapy at –110-degrees centigrade, that delivers a full body restoration. Often used by elite athletes, the twin-room chamber gives an intense three-minute adrenalin hit to supercharge your health. There’s also IV Therapy, Hydrafacial, Dermapen, Accent Prime and LED Light Therapy to revitalise, tone and sculpt; plus a comprehensive facial menu by brands including Esse and Dr Barbara Sturm, whose treatments are exclusive to the clinic (the ever-popular Instant Glow by Dr Barbara Sturm targets cell regeneration, resulting in a natural, refined glow); and for a quick beauty fix, you can book in for eyelash extensions, tinting, eyebrow threading and pain-free waxing. Afterwards, soak up the hygge vibe at the in-house café, which offers a nutritious menu. 105 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, W11 apogiiclinic.co.uk
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
Onda
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NOTTING HILL
nda, the Australian clean beauty retailer and spa set up by long-time friends Larissa Thomson, Sarah Bryden-Brown and Naomi Watts, has thrown open the doors to its first UK outpost, in Notting Hill. In keeping with Onda’s other branches in New York’s Tribeca, Sag Harbour in The Hamptons and Sydney, the Westbourne Grove store feels calm and welcoming, decorated in muted colours, natural woods and with big bunches of fresh flowers. Thoughtfully-curated brands line the shelves, including May Lindstrom, African Botanics, De Mamiel, Joanna Vargas, Guy Morgan Apothecary and new brand on the block Kate McLeod. All the products are ethically-sourced, clean, non-toxic and organic - and every one has been tested by the trio and chosen for its efficacy, purpose, scent and goodness. There’s a treatment room downstairs offering Onda’s signature facials, which include exfoliation, extractions, a customised mask, facial massage and LED light treatment, tailor-made to the individual. 187 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, W11 ondabeauty.co.uk
BelleCell ST JAMES’S
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he UK’s first bio-hacking clinic, BelleCell has opened in Mayfair, in the historic vaults next to the Ritz. The clinic specialises in regenerative technologies and age management, using an advanced scientific approach to gain a precise understanding of your molecular characteristics and your state of wellbeing. Whatever your health and beauty goals, from longevity and cell health to radiant skin or hair loss control, you’ll start with an in-depth bio-analysis to fully figure out your body and how you should be eating, training and living – this could be anything from metabolic tests and 3D body scanning to a nutrigenomix and DNA test. The clinic then creates a hyper-personalised programme, across multiple treatment rooms, an infusion lounge and a diagnostic room, which can incorporate all manner of treatments administered by a team of specialists, including colonic hydrotherapy, IV infusions, carboxy therapy, fusion therapy, PRP, radiofrequency exilis, ozone therapy, aesthetic injectables, laser hair removal, LPG Endermologie, skin tightening and sculpting, women’s health and gynaecological rejuvenation... the list is impressive. 21 Arlington Street, St James’s, SW1 bellecell.com
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T H E G L O S S A RY PA R T N E R S H I P
Let it
Glow French wellness brand Aime, whose supplements and tinctures help improve gut health and boost glowing skin, has opened its first boutique in London
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t’s the French wellness brand whose beauty-boosting skin supplements were so popular when they launched last year, the wait list ran into the thousands. Now Aime Skincare is bringing its winning formula to London, with a newly-opened boutique in Covent Garden. The brainchild of Mathilde Lacombe (founder of Birchbox) and her business partner François Morrier, Aime is based on the belief that the root cause of skin problems is a digestive system weakened by stress, pollution and diet, and that supporting a healthy microbiome will lead to clear, glowing skin. After seeking the expertise of Valérie Espinasse, a pharmacist and micro-nutritionist, the Parisian-based duo developed an easy-to-use range of daily supplements, packed with probiotics, vitamins and minerals. All of the capsules contain clean, plantbased ingredients designed to target different skincare problems. While Pure Glow is designed for those with acne, blemishes and hormonal breakouts, thanks to its magnesium, turmeric, spirulina, artichoke and zinc properties, French Glow works for sensitive skin that needs a boost, with borage, hyaluronic
acid, alpha lipoic acid and eschscholzia californica. For city dwellers there’s Urban Glow with ingredients of evening primrose, lady’s mantle, spirulina, lycopene, vitamin C and saffron – a powerful and effective mix for skin exposed to damaging pollutants. All three - which can be taken separately or simultaneously – will be available at the new store, alongside other products including Matcha Glow, an antioxidant- and collagen-rich daily drink supplement, and the latest launch, Sleep & Glow, a powerful sleep-inducing tincture made from a potent mix of ashwagandha and melatonin that also aids the regeneration and recovery of skin. In addition to the retail space, the boutique is your new wellness destination to bookmark, hosting regular experiential events in the studio space with leading health and beauty experts, including meditation, yoga and gut health talks.
Aime, 55 Monmouth Street, Covent Garden, WC2 aime.co
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Renew &REDUX Wellness Retreat
Palatial it may be, but behind all the glitz and gloss at Palace Merano Espace Henri Chenot is a serious spa emporium dedicated to detox Words ALESSANDRA STEINHERR
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pon arriving at Palace Merano Espace Henri Chenot you’d be forgiven for thinking you had turned up at a glossy five-star as opposed to a highly revered medical spa. Actually, it’s both. Nestled in the pretty Alpine village of Merano, in Italy’s South Tyrol region, the hotel is a lesson in old-school Italian splendour with its gilded lobby, crystal chandeliers and impeccably dressed staff. Its charm extends well beyond the walls of this former palace, with breathtaking vistas across the foothills and majestic snow-capped peaks of the Dolomites. But don’t let the grand optics of the location fool you into believing this is all style over substance - it most certainly isn’t. Palace Merano is home to one of the world’s leading destination wellness centres, established by Dr Henri Chenot over two decades ago. Chenot, a French biologist (who still has an office on the premises), has spent the past 50 years honing his famous Chenot Method. It is based on his extensive studies of biontology (the ‘science of living’) - looking at how the body changes over time and using that information to promote optimal health. The method combines traditional Chinese medicine and modern Western science in a bid to eliminate toxins and restore equilibrium between body, mind and soul.
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the week is set out: hydro-aromatherapy sessions for lymphatic circulation, mineralrich mud-wraps to detox, hydrojet massage to reinvigorate, daily therapeutic drainage massages, bespoke fitness training, outdoor guided group walks and on-site nutritional coaching.
Suspension Training and Vacu Power Training, the latter of which combines vacuum therapy with cardio to targetsculpt notoriously stubborn areas such as the abdomen and hips. Everything takes place under the watchful eyes of the personal trainers. The highlight for me, however, is the pool area - a vast indoor pool, connecting to an uber-chic outdoor area surrounded by a lush tropical garden. Perfect for both serious swimming and soaking up rays in the summer, while sipping a tisane. For those looking for something more intensive, the fully outfitted medical aesthetics floor offers the latest in cutting-edge treatments, with an extensive menu of injectables (Botox, fillers and plasma lift), laser treatments (Vbeam, Fraxel Dual laser and high-intensity focused ultrasound) and body shapers (shock waves, body contouring and TriLipo). Meals are in line with what you’d expect from a detox cuisine: no alcohol, no dairy, no refined carbohydrates, no sugar, no meat. The hardest for me is the dearth of coffee, but I must admit that although the barley-based substitute contained no caffeine, it is tasty. Though calorifically calibrated, the menu is varied and delicious. On a typical day, breakfast is a small bowl of mixed fruit; lunch a big salad followed by a plant-based warm dish, such as quinoa, rice or amaranth pasta with vegetables; and dinner, a warm soup followed by another plant-based meal, all washed down with herbal tea. I rarely feel hungry. Fish is served twice a week but there is no other animal protein. There is also a 30-hour fast in the programme, which is suggested but by no means obligatory. The service throughout is impeccable – even when hungry guests request food for the umpteenth time, restaurant staff are kind but firm, and always professional. A no, but always delivered with a smile. The menu may be pared back, but the dining room is anything but. Tables are impeccably set with starched white linens and the polished silverware wouldn’t seem out of place in a Michelin-
“I feel recharged, revived and ready to face whatever life chooses to throw at me”
The health-enhancing programmes on offer at the centre involve a combination of high-tech diagnostics, innovative treatments and tailored workouts - all expertly administered by well-trained, highly knowledgeable staff (the therapists in the spa are some of the best I’ve come across). After a particularly stressful few months, I’d let my healthyeating and exercise slide. I needed to press pause and regroup. Palace Merano sounded like just the place to do it, so I book myself onto the six-day Detox Programme, the centre’s most popular course. It’s essentially a thorough deepcleanse of the body (an ‘organic detoxification’) and is recommended for those with stress problems and related disorders, as well as those with excess weight issues. I’m assigned a doctor (fully qualified, of course) who I meet for an initial consultation. After a thorough medical check-up and weigh-in, my plan for
You can, should you wish, book addons, such as the more advanced body treatments and facials, and IV drips the doctor will suggest whether these are required. While the weekly itineraries are tailormade to the individual’s needs, the Chenot Method remains at the heart and soul of the programmes. The Detox Programme optimises digestive function to aid elimination. Morning weigh-ins are encouraged and I soon come to view the numbers purely as data rather than attach an emotional response to them. So much so, I now step on my bathroom scales once a week, just to keep things in check. For the first couple of days I am incredibly tired - in fact, I sleep for 24 hours. Then, slowly, the fatigue and lethargy lifts I feel lighter and more relaxed. I even find myself relishing my workout sessions, though with such a well-appointed gym they aren’t too much of a hardship. All the latest cardio equipment is at guests’ disposal, plus TRX
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Alessandra's
SPA ESSENTIALS
rated restaurant. Indeed, while daytime dressing is classical spa attire (fluffy robe and slippers), the evening dress code is decidedly glam. I have to nip into Merano - all cobbled streets and chic boutiques to buy a couple of dresses and a pair of heels, as I had only packed leggings and sweatshirts. After dinner, most guests retire to bed early - after all, they’re here to relax and detox. The rooms are oldschool elegance with super comfortable beds and bathroom goodies from Chenot’s own range. They don’t feel clinical in the slightest, although, of course, the minibars contain nothing but water. A week here is a truly restorative and transformative experience, the ideal respite from the stresses and overindulgences of everyday life. Dr Chenot’s Method is also highly effective. Not only do I emerge half a stone lighter, I feel recharged, revived and ready to face whatever life chooses to throw at me. Palace Merano Espace Henri Chenot offers the six-day Detox Programme for €3,600 (programmes from €2,800). This includes all meals, consultations and treatments. Accommodation for one week in single occupancy is from €1,800 per person. palace.it/en
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FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: GOOP G.Tox 5 Salt Detox Body Scrub, £36, shop.goop.com POUR LES FEMMES Striped pyjama set, £210, selfridges.com GIVENCHY Aviator-style sunglasses, £270, net-a-porter.com ERES Les Essentiels Aquarelle swimsuit, £230, net-a-porter.com SAINT LAURENT Nu Pieds leather slides, £425, matchesfashion.com VAARA Gaia cropped sweatshirt, £230, vaara.com VAARA Liv Wide striped track pants, £300, vaara.com GLOBE-TROTTER Safari 20 cabin case, £1,385, globe-trotter.com CLARINS Tonic Body Treatment Oil, £40, johnlewis.com ESPA Pink Hair & Scalp Mud, £34, harveynichols.com
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everyone triyoga... 6 beautiful locations 750+classes a week 25+ styles of yoga expert teachers pilates gyrotonic + barre treatments teacher training organic cafĂŠs lifestyle shops at triyoga london www.triyoga.co.uk
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Photograph: JĂŠrĂ´me Galland
Top Table
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With the nights drawing in, restaurant writer Hilary Armstrong explores the eclectic openings in which to while away an evening this autumn. Turn to page 76 for the new names to know, including the elaborately-decorated Italian trattoria Circolo Popolare. 40-41 Rathbone Place, Fitzrovia, W1, bigmammagroup.com
12/10/2019 04:10
Tasting Notes
The latest openings and places to know across the capital Compiled by RACHEL WALKER
IN A NUTSHELL
There’s smoky aubergine, lamb meatballs studded with dried fruit and walnuts, and rice coloured with saffron and flavoured with pops of sour cherry. When the team behind Nutshell promise ‘homestyle’ dishes it’s the sort of kitchen dinner we can only dream of - but then why stay in when eating out is this good? 30 St Martin’s Lane, Covent Garden, WC2 nutshelllondon.co.uk
BEST IN STORE
STEP BACK IN TIME
It’s all change at The Cleveland Arms as Elisabeth Passédat (a MasterChef: The Professionals quarter-finalist) takes over as head chef, introducing Frenchstyle cooking to the historic gastropub. Couple the traditional dishes with the period filmset backdrop and it facilitates a sense of time travel - perfect for losing yourself in a long lunch. 28 Chilworth Street, Paddington, W2
theclevelandarms.com
This summer saw the launch of Harrods’ new dining hall, which allows customers to sit and enjoy some of the top produce sold in the iconic food halls in situ. From the lobster toastie at the Fish Bar to the veal cheek ragout at the Pasta Bar, it’s a stepup from a sandwich-onthe-go, but one that’s only fitting, given the luxuriant surroundings. 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1 harrods.com
London Landmark
THE NEW GUARD It’s easy to bed-in at the Great Scotland Yard Hotel, which has recently been revamped to cater for all food and drink eventualities - from breakfast to that final nightcap. There’s The Yard (main restaurant), Forty Elephants (cocktail bar), The Parlour (a modern tearoom inspired by Delhi’s Imperial Hotel) and Sibín (an ‘illicit drinking club’ specialising in whiskies) - giving little reason to ever leave. 3-5 Great Scotland Yard, Westminster, SW1 hyatt.com
SWAN SONG
DRINK ME
Look for the powder-blue door, and you’ll find some of the best cocktails in town amid the eccentric taxidermy and curiosities. The revamped cocktail lists, Potions & Punches and Cures & Curiosities, showcase ten therapeutic ingredients (catnip, palo santo, pollen, sandlewood, vetiver, quartz, clary sage, yarrow, St John’s wort and elf oil) - making it easier than ever to raise a glass to good health. 49-50 St John’s Square, Farringdon, EC1 thezettertownhouse.com
The Victoria Palace Theatre’s 20-cover bar is setting a new standard for theatre drinks, thanks to its partnership with Michelinstarred chef Jason Atherton. Not only does Pavlova’s borrow its name from the legendary Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, but its signature cocktail is a tribute to her. The Dying Swan (£9) is presented in a music box, with a combination of gin, elderflower, citrus, cucumber and herbs served alongside a rotating ballerina. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria Street, Westminster, SW1 victoriapalacetheatre.co.uk
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FOOD & DRINK
EASY AS PIE Rosewood Hotels has launched a ‘Family Time’ programme, designed to create unforgettable memories - but none are more tantalising than the pastry workshops held in Rosewood London’s famous Pie Room. Each month, six budding little chefs cook up a feast under the tutelage of two of Holborn Dining Room’s finest pastry experts, heading home with a batch of sausage rolls and apple pie for a high-end high tea. Holborn Dining Room, 252 High Holborn, Holborn, WC1 holborndiningroom.com
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Restaurant R E V I E W S
LIFE & SOUL Restaurant writer Hilary Armstrong unearths the capital’s fun, fabulous and flamboyant new openings
Circolo
Popolare
40-41 Rathbone Place, Fitzrovia, W1 bigmammagroup.com
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t any one time, a dozen people have their camera phones out. The photo opportunities come thick and fast. Virgin Mary in the foyer. Snap. 20,000 liquor bottles lining the walls. Snap. A tapestry Mona Lisa.. Snap. Mermaidtail cocktail glasses. Metre-long pizzas. XXL sundaes. Snap, snap, snap. We’re at Circolo Popolare in Fitzrovia, the second launch from Paris’ Big Mamma Group whose London debut, Gloria in Shoreditch, was the hottest opening of the year – at least until Circolo came along. Where Gloria is all tasselled lamps, souvenir ceramics and terracotta planters borrowed from quaint Capri trattorie, Circolo sets the scene in Sicily - al fresco (sort of), with climbing roses, whitewashed stone booths, and a pair of oversized ‘Moorish head’ ceramic planters. It’s la dolce vita with a dash of Dolce e Gabbana and a whisper of holiday romance. At lunchtime, the 220-cover dining room is packed to the wisteria-hung rafters even before 1pm. At supper, the queue out of the door can stretch to 50 metres (though a new waiting list should put paid to that).
I’m not sure of the Italian for zeitgeist, but whatever it is, Circolo has captured it. The menu, built predominantly on pizza and pasta, is very affordable, for a start. Our classic margherita, characterised by an authentically blistered, puffed up cornicione and good-quality mozzarella di bufala, is, at £11, little more expensive than the equivalent at Pizza Express. ‘Crab me by the Paccheri’ (ahem), a house special, is a more extravagant option at £20, but is served under a cloche with typical Circolo theatre, and is a generous serving, packed with white crab meat and juicy mussels. There are limits to the kitchen’s ability: lettuce cups with sea bass crudo, kiwi and dehydrated black olives (‘A MUST’ according to the menu’s breathy copy) is slapdash.
Desserts are little more than a bit of fun. The high-rise ‘Incomparable Lemon Pie‘, as seen at Gloria, is the best of the bunch. Our ‘Meraviglioso‘, a ‘mess’ of sorts with whipped cream, nuts and meringue, is not actually that marvellous but let’s not nitpick: it’s fine. So too are churros, however parsimonious the sauce. I find myself in forgiving mode. Maybe it’s the lambrusco. Surrounded by happy people, it’s hard not to enjoy the party. One day, we may well look back on Circolo and wonder what all the fuss was about but, for now, it’s amore. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £60 SIGNATURE DISHES: ‘ The One and Only’ carpaccio pizza; La Gran Carbonara served in a wheel of pecorino; Circolo ‘OTT XXL’ Sundae WHAT TO DRINK: Lambrusco
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ISLA
SIREN
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The Goring, 15 Beeston Place, Belgravia, SW1 thegoring.com
he Goring, boring? Hardly! The venerable Belgravia hotel – it has a Royal Warrant, don’t you know – has taken everybody by surprise with its maximalist new restaurant Siren, whose bold design incorporates comely mermaids, crystal lobsters, floral velvet and theatrical carved wooden thrones. Russell Sage Studio (The Fife Arms, Belmond Cadogan Hotel) has excelled itself. Even the waiters are costumed in bronze satin and midnight blue, pinned with intricate brooches purloined from an eccentric maiden aunt. Siren is the family-run fivestar’s first new restaurant in over a century, so Jeremy Goring, great grandson of founder Otto R. Goring, has really gone for it, spending £4m on the conservatory extension with retractable roof, the bar, and a herb garden; not to mention the new kitchen, fit for the best seafood chef in the land, Nathan Outlaw, holder of two Michelin stars at his
eponymous Cornwall restaurant. The catch of the day is brought to us on a silver platter: Dooncastle oysters (the oyster aficionado’s oyster of choice), a good-sized John Dory, a pair of handsome Dover sole and a red sea bream. We begin with two dishes from opposite ends of the flavour spectrum. Cured monkfish, dressed with yoghurt and fronds of fennel, is dainty and delicate, while cuttlefish black pudding, with cuttlefish pieces where a regular blood sausage might have rice or oats, is as close as it gets to carnivorous at Siren. To follow, dramatically butterfield red mullet, still with its tail, easily carries the big flavours of charred red chicory and fiery devilled shrimp butter. It’s a daring, delicious dish. Even beautiful Dover sole, somewhat overwhelmed by clotted cream sauce, can’t compete. We stick to a glass apiece of Bollinger from a magnum – perfect – but will make a return visit before the nights draw in for a Garden Negroni overlooking the lawn, the loveliest secret garden in London. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £140 SIGNATURE DISHES: Cornish crab risotto; turbot, herbed and battered, with warm tartare sauce; lobster grilled over fire with herbs and garlic WHAT TO DRINK: The Garden Negroni
The Standard London, 10 Argyle Street, King’s Cross, WC1 standardhotels.com/london
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n the days when the Camden Town Hall Annexe was still a local government office and not yet the epicentre of cool it is today, its 1970s brutalist beauty went cruelly unnoticed. Since hip hotel group The Standard took it on for their European debut, it’s become a new London icon, distinguished by the glossy red exterior lift that whizzes guests up to the roof. The rooftop restaurant from Michelin-star chef Peter SanchezIglesias will be this autumn’s hot ticket, but until then we have the whole ground floor to explore, with not one but two projects by rising star Adam Rawson. Rawson’s a ‘YBF’ (Young British Foodies) chef of the year whose CV is a happy mix of high and low: Claridge’s, Viajante, Peruvian Pachamama and burger chain Lucky Chip. He brings this wealth of experience into play at both ‘dive bar’ Double Standard (don’t miss the burger) and all-day restaurant and lounge, Isla. Isla’s menu of ‘coastal cuisine’ promises contemporary sharing plates, building from plant-forward assemblies to hulking aged beef chops. Crab, heaps of it, with Canarian papas arrugadas and seaweed is terrific with my fino-based Breakfast Quebranta cocktail (it comes with a cute slice of marmalade melba toast), as are slivers of Galician ox-ham that have all the funky intensity one expects of an older beast. Rawson never
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passes up a chance to add another unexpected textural or visual detail: even simple panzanella is a flavour bomb. Desserts are gentler: toasted amaranth custard tart with blueberry sorbet is blissful. Rawson’s high impact dishes suit the space, dressed in 1970s fashion in keeping with the architecture. Its sexy glam rock side - the shag-pile wall and red lacquer tables, particularly - coexists with its homely one. Bookcases, easy chairs and reading lamps encourage one to settle in for the day. I will be back, and often. Note to restaurant designers: more 70s vibes please. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £100 SIGNATURE DISHES: Crab, papas arrugadas, seaweed; aged beef chop, green peppercorn sauce WHAT TO DRINK: The Isla of White with seaweed-infused vermouth
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an a restaurant be too beautiful? It’s a question I ponder at Bob Bob Cité, Russian restaurateur Leonid Shutov’s sumptuous £25m sequel to Soho’s Bob Bob Ricard located high on the third level of the ‘Cheesegrater’ building. No expense has been spared in creating a glittering, glamorous 21st-century hall of mirrors, free of ‘City restaurant’ cliché. So mesmerised am I by its dizzying, discombobulating beauty (and the LED ticker-tape display that scrolls hypnotically round the room), I can barely concentrate on the menu. What saves Bob Bob Cité from style over substance is the value it places on genuine hospitality. Those legendary ‘presser pour champagne’ buttons at every table are more than a gimmick; they’re an ice-breaker, a cue to have some fun (and order some champagne: the choice of large format bottles, from magnums to 6L Methusalehs is seriously impressive). The same goes for the irresistibly camp ‘in-flight’ theme that informs the matchy-matchy tableware, the waiters’ navy jackets and the two-tone fauxleatherette leather banquettes. On a practical note, the two dining rooms – one red, one blue – are all-booth for privacy and there are three private dining ‘suites’ each with a reception room for drinks (apropos of which, the wine list is excellent with many smart French appellations available by the glass). It’s not obvious at first sight that Bob Bob Cité is a traditional French brasserie, albeit one in contemporary disguise. Chef Eric Chavot is one of the greats, having worked for Pierre Koffmann, Nico Ladenis and Marco Pierre White, before
BOB BOB CITÉ The Leadenhall Building, 122 Leadenhall Street, City of London, EC3 bobbobcite.com
winning two Michelin stars of his own at The Capital. My initial impulse is to feast on caviar, lobster and oysters like a latter-day tsarina. In fact, a first course of oysters ‘gratinée’ with black truffle hollandaise is an unappealingly briny misfire. I should know better: Chavot is the master of French bourgeois cooking, as evidenced by beefy, Comté-laden French onion soup (made to la mère Chavot’s recipe apparently) and a glossy ‘bob bob cité’-branded chicken pie infused with tarragon. A brasserie rises and falls on the quality of its side orders: Chavot’s ‘chunky fries’, heritage tomato salad and truffled pomme purée pass with flying colours. To finish, understated baba au rhum and île flotante prove there is no need to gild the lily. Bob Bob Cité is shiny enough already. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £100 SIGNATURE DISHES: French onion soup; Le ‘pie’ de poulet; baba au rhum WHAT TO DRINK: 25 vintages of Château d’Yquem; 50 of Armagnac
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Restaurant R E V I E W S
Brasserie of Light
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Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, Westminster, W1 brasserie-of-light.co.uk
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monumental crystalstudded Pegasus soars high above the heads of mortals at Selfridges’ Brasserie of Light. Beneath the awe-inspiring sculpture - Damien Hirst’s largest scale artwork in Britain - diners with canary-yellow shopping bags tucked beneath their tables sip ‘Wild G&Ts’ and eat king crab and vegan rice-paper rolls. What happened to the days when a visit to a department store ‘cafeteria’ meant a scone, a plate of sandwiches, and a milkshake if you’d been good? Selfridges, in partnership with Richard Caring’s Caprice Holdings and designer Martin Brudnizki, have consigned those dark days to retail history. Here on the first floor of the ‘Best Department Store in the World’, refurbished to the tune of £300m, all is light. Bright light streams in through triple-height windows and bounces off mirrored tables, etched glass and shimmering gold-dusted desserts. Even the doorman’s jacket sparkles in the night. For all the eye-popping excess, the food and drink at Brasserie of Light is secretly rather sensible. Sure, there are some showpieces geared towards
the ‘Gram - the ‘Pegasus afternoon tea’ in its billowing cloud of dry ice, for example - but the wider focus is on the contemporary luxury one expects of Caprice Holdings. That might mean truffled scrambled eggs or buckwheat and quinoa granola with coconut ‘yoghurt’ at a breakfast meeting; it might mean a light lunch of saffron risotto or tuna carpaccio while one decides ‘yes’ or ‘no’ to those Gucci trainers; or it might be a decadent evening of cocktails in a room positively fizzing with energy. Burrata salad with smoked tomatoes and aubergine, and crisp fried chicken dumplings with a little truffle are two dishes worth returning for at any hour. Note that the Brasserie of Light can be accessed via a separate entrance on Duke Street, thus allowing it to open outside Selfridges’ opening hours. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £100 SIGNATURE DISHES: Avocado and sesame fried chicken with coriander; lobster spaghetti; Pegasus pie WHAT TO DRINK: The Queen of Time, a champagne cocktail named after the sculpture above Selfridges’ entrance
Manhattan Loft Gardens, 20 International Way, Stratford, E20 allegra-restaurant.com
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f anyone is going to persuade London’s beautiful people to leave Mayfair and jump in a cab to the far-flung, once fictional postcode of E20 you might know it as EastEnders’ Walford - it’s Harry Handelsman, the visionary developer behind Chiltern Firehouse. Handelsman’s latest project is Manhattan Loft Gardens, an ambitious 42-storey tower that looms over East London’s Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and houses the new Stratford Hotel and its seventh-floor restaurant Allegra. Allegra would be a destination restaurant wherever it were located. It boasts design by Space Copenhagen (Noma, 11 Howard), a walk-in wine room and a star chef in Irishman Patrick Powell, formerly of Chiltern Firehouse. We got a pre-launch preview of Allegra and were roundly impressed. One taste of his French onion soup and it’s clear that Powell is a chef who cooks food to be enjoyed, not merely admired. Powell’s spent the last year honing dishes for both the restaurant and terrace (where he’ll be cooking over fire), establishing in-house bakery, butchery and charcuterie programmes, and building relationships with suppliers such as Full Circle Farms in West Sussex.
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His menus carry a strong sense of the seasons; ‘vegetables from the farm’ with fresh cheese and truffle is a dish that will never be the same twice. But if there’s a single dish that will persuade wavering west Londoners to venture over, then it will surely be the glossy smoked eel pie with parsley sauce, a nostalgic nod to East End culinary tradition. E20 ain’t what it used to be. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £150 SIGNATURE DISHES: Whole roasted chicken stuffed with wild garlic sausage served over two courses WHAT TO DRINK: A twist on the Sbagliato, with plum-infused fino
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Well and wild Swap your dreary local gym for the rhino-speckled grasses of the Borana-Lewa Conservancy, with two new wellness programmes at Arijiju, Kenya’s most exquisite exclusive-use property. The Soul Seeker itinerary includes sunrise meditations and visits to traditional healers, while The Sportsman programme cranks things up with running safaris and heart-thumping mountain-bike adventures. arijiju.com
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Travel Notes
Dive for diamonds, sail the Nile in style, and traverse countries and continents via two epic safaris Compiled by LIZZIE POOK
Gastro heaven
ISLAND EATS
A TALE OF TWO CONTINENTS Pioneering conservation brand Singita has teamed up with highend Antarctica specialists White Desert to create an ultra-luxe, oncein-a-lifetime itinerary that will leave safari enthusiasts slack-jawed. Bringing together the African wilderness and the ethereal Antarctic tundra, the 11-day trip takes guests from the warm Lowveld of Kruger National Park – where they’ll spot marauding lions, sleuthing cheetah and willowy giraffes – to sub-zero Antarctica to visit the area’s vast colony of 28,000 emperor penguins. The epic trip includes four nights at Singita Kruger National Park and two nights at One&Only Cape Town, from where the White Desert private jet will whisk guests off for five nights in the sci-fi-style sleeping pods at Antarctica’s unique Whichaway Camp.
scottdunn.com
This November, the impeccable Velaa Private Island resort will host its second annual gastronomy and wine series, with intimate sevencourse dinners courtesy of some of the world’s finest chefs (trailing a clatter of Michelin stars behind them). In the most breathtaking Maldivian surroundings, food will also be paired with exquisite Artémis Domaines wines and soul-soothing ocean views. velaaisland.com SKY HIGH
Why choose just the one country for your ski trip next year? Luxury Alpine specialist Leo Trippi is launching the ultimate heli-ski safari, offering guests an exhilarating, deep-powder, cross-border adventure in Switzerland, Italy and France. e ten-day itinerary includes thrilling flights, via chopper, high into snowcarpeted mountains, as well as nerve-jangling descents, glacier skiing and other adrenalin-fuelled challenges.
leotrippi.com
BURIED TREASURE
Feeling romantic? For the most out-ofthis-world marriage proposal, Niquesa Travel is helping guests dive for their very own, one-of-a-kind diamond in South Africa. Guests will be taken to a remote spot on the country’s rugged west coast, where expert diamond divers are on hand to help them select the perfect stone from the sea floor, which is then cut, polished and finished in an exclusive Stellenbosch studio. niquesatravel.com
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T R AV E L
VINE FORM Attention, oenophiles – the prestigious Rocco Forte Hotels group has just launched Exquisite Europe, a new programme of ultra-luxurious experiences for guests at all its hotels worldwide. Hotel Savoy in Florence has a particularly appealing offering, where guests are taken in a private helicopter over rolling Tuscan countryside, before setting down at an acclaimed vineyard for wine tasting and lunch with Filippo Bartolotta (otherwise known as Obama’s sommelier).
roccofortehotels.com
QUEEN OF THE NILE ere is something eminently romantic about the Nile, and the newly refurbished Sanctuary Nile Adventurer is the perfect vessel in which to sail down it. e elegant, boutique river cruiser has been named one of National Geographic’s ‘Journeys of a Lifetime’ and the extensive makeover cements the cruise ship’s position as one of the finest ways to explore this captivating, lifeblood river.
abercrombiekent.co.uk
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UK Travel
COUNTRY From a private island on the Thames to a horticultural haven in Somerset, check into one of the UK’s buzziest new countryside hotels
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T R AV E L
T he L angle y
Iv e r, Bu c k i n gh a m s h i re langley.com
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t took six years and a multimillion-pound budget but the renovation of The Langley, the former country estate of the third Duke of Marlborough in the heart of Buckinghamshire, has been worth the wait. The sweeping driveway, grand stone façade and double staircase leading up to the front door all make for a majestic arrival. Inside, the entrance hall’s mosaic floor, gleaming chandeliers and plush wingback armchairs set the tone for modern country glamour. The hotel’s bedrooms are split between the Duke’s former hunting lodge and adjacent 18th-century Brew House. Rooms in the latter have a more rustic aesthetic, while the ones in the main house offer contemporary cosiness. All reference the richness of the property’s past, with specially-designed furniture
and elegant touches such as Hermes toiletries in the indulgent bathrooms. Not to mention glorious views of the lake or park, especially from the most opulent room, The Duke of Marlborough Suite. While the setting is enough of a lure, the spectacular subterranean spa featuring a next-level treatment menu by Sisley and others pioneering brands steals the show. Combining striking design with first-class facilities, hours can be lost in this 1,600 sqm wellness hub with its marble-lined 16-metre pool, extensive thermal area, five treatment rooms, private VIP suite and state-of-theart gym with Matt Roberts personal training facility. Upstairs in the Cedar restaurant, food is seasonally driven and meticulously presented, fusing influences including Italian, Peruvian and Japanese, and the
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neighbouring Drawing Room is the ideal setting for afternoon tea. Then, of course, there's the Churchill Bar, which is made for winter nightcaps - and Instagram. The spa treatment to book… The Langley Signature Hammam Ritual. From the full-body exfoliation and skinnourishing rassoul honey wrap to the spine-tingling hair wash and top-to-toe massage using the spa’s signature blend of shea butter and organic oils, it’s 150 minutes of pure bliss. Need to know Doubles from £425 per night. (Review by Lisa Harvey)
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Monke y Island E s t ate Bra y, Be rk s h i re monkeyislandestate.co.uk
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he only way to reach Monkey Island is walking over a little pedestrian bridge, while staff - who appear as if by magic look after your luggage. This tiny private island, perched on a sleepy stretch of the Thames in Bray, started life as a fishing retreat for the Duke of Marlborough in the early 18th century and has long been the playground of a cosmopolitan crowd. Some 300 years later, and after extensive refurbishment by hotel titans YTL, the two Grade I-listed pavilions have reopened as a boutique bolthole. Monkey Island’s restaurant, in a gleaming white Palladian building, is overseen by Will Hemming, formerly of The Savoy and Simpson’s in the Strand, who eschews tasting menus for a concise list of dishes incorporating island-grown and Berkshire produce, while the solid wine list takes the new world as seriously as the old world. Afterwards, take your digestif in The Monkey Room and marvel at the playful primate-inspired 17th-century frescoes. The well-appointed rooms are a stroll away, either attached to the Temple or in a converted barn, surrounded by manicured gardens overlooking the
river. The star of the show is the Wedgewood Suite, with its intricate blue and white hand-plastered ceiling, a dressing room and a window seat with its own whisky stash (Monkey Shoulder, naturally). Pleasingly, you can’t escape the water here and it’s been used to full advantage at the island’s spa, which is housed on a barge bobbing on the shoreline. Inspired by the Apothecaries’ Barge, which was moored on the Thames in Chelsea in the 17th century, the treatments incorporate herbal remedies, botanical liqueurs and elixirs - and many use new British skincare brand Moss of the Isles. You’ll leave feeling very reluctant to walk back over the bridge and into the real world. The spa treatment to book… The Monk’s Elixir is a 90-minute treatment which taps into the island’s monastic past (the island was once known as ‘Monk’s Eyot’). Begin with a tasting flight of botanical elixirs, before the deep tissue massage using house-made oils from herbs grown in the hotel’s Experimental Teahouse. Need to know £275 per night, room only. (Review by Mollie McGuigan)
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T R AV E L
T he Ne wt
Br u to n , So m e rs e t thenewtinsomerset.com
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outh African hoteliers Koos Bekker and Karen Roos spent six years transforming honeycoloured Hadspen House (the seat of the Hobhouse family since the late 18th century) into a hotel. The result is a suitable marriage of Georgian scale and contemporary finish and, while rooms are individually designed, the general feel is of Austen-era romance: four-poster beds, roll-top baths and low-slung beams. The Garden View Rooms are lovely, with idyllic vistas, fireplaces and complimentary mini larders; but our favourite has to be the Granary, a selfcontained suite in the stable yard with exposed brick walls, a wood-burning stove and dove-coloured throws (perfect once the dark nights draw in). The spa is done out in the same rustic register, with timber and brick massage rooms and an indoor/outdoor pool. It’s all so comfortable you might be tempted to stay inside, but if you do, you’ll miss out on 300 acres of formal gardens complete with an apple tree maze - and gentle Somerset countryside, as well as clean-living country diversions like croquet, fishing, falconry and riding. The estate is a working farm, so much of the produce is local and sourced on site.
The Garden Cafe, a glass-fronted Grand Designs-esque structure that overlooks the orchards, uses ingredients from the eight-acre kitchen garden and aims for zero waste, while the Cyder Bar serves cider made with apples from the 3000 trees onsite, alongside sausage rolls and pastries from the hotel’s bakery. You can even top your breakfast porridge with a helix of honey from its very own bees.
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The spa treatment to book… Book in for the 60-minute Apothecary Facial, which uses a blend of botanical oils on your skin to nourish and hydrate; it’s like falling asleep in a garden full of flowers. Need to know Rooms from £255 per night, based on two sharing on a B&B basis. (Review by Charlotte Adsett)
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- Access to over 750 luxury brAnds with worldwide shipping AvAilAble 0333 011 3333
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HOME & INTERIORS
Celestial Chic “I have always been inspired by cosmic forms,” says former jewellery designer turned furniture creator Lara Bohinc. This is evident across her latest work: the striking Saturn chair (£4,679), made from sculpted galavanised steel and wool, recalls the ring of the giant planet, while the Planetaria light (£2,277) represents an exploration of the globe. bohincstudio.com
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Design Notes
Bespoke murals,, nature-inspired furniture and bold new light forms Compiled by OLIVIA LIDBURY
BACK TO NATURE
Acclaimed Welsh designer Ross Lovegrove has created Ergo, a sustainable bedroom collection for Natuzzi. The range includes a bed, chandelier, chest of drawers and this chaise longue. Inspired by the surfaces and motifs of nature, Ergo uses responsibly sourced and renewable materials and interlocking components, cleverly removing the need for screws or metal parts. natuzzi.co.uk
ALL WOMAN
Multidisciplinary artist Faye Toogood’s latest collaboration with Brooklyn-based Calico Wallpaper is a celebration of the diversity of womankind. The collection, entitled Muse, began with a hand-painted composition of various subjects and expressions, which were then set against distinctive background colours to create five different styles. Toogood’s sweeping brushstrokes are brought to life through print on a textured canvas and clients can select a section of the artwork to be made into a bespoke mural. calicowallpaper.com
TILE STYLE
Ann Sacks has partnered with parent company Kohler Co. to create the Crackle Collection, a sustainable tile series made from unfired pottery cull. Repurposed in Kohler’s US-based WasteLAB, each tile is handcra ed using an interactive glaze, which produces a delicate crackle across the tile and a deep, rich colour. westonebathrooms.com
True to form
MELLOW YELLOW Twenty-one years after his death, the work of one of Denmark’s most influential furniture designers, Verner Panton, lives on. Verpan has acquired exclusive rights to a significant part of Panton’s estate, making it the destination to acquire the lighting and pieces that continue to challenge notions of colour and conformity. Hive light, £1,000; verpan.com
TABLE SERVICE
One of the most exciting names in interior design, Beata Heuman has applied her distinctive marbleised pattern to a versatile new product: a tray. This large, circular surface (£65), made from FSCcertified birch wood, works beautifully in tandem with her steel tray stand (£95), creating a lightweight table that can be positioned anywhere around the home. beataheuman.com
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HOME & INTERIORS
LEADING LIGHT Bring bold, spherical shapes and graphic lines into your home with a modernist table lamp that looks just as impactful when not in use
FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: SOHO HOME Hartnell Table Lamp, £195; sohohome.com PETITE FRITURE Mediterranea Brass Table Lamp, £850; amara.com LENE BJERE Hokona Table Lamp, £210; sweetpeaandwillow.com TOM DIXON Melt Copper Table Light, £465; tomdixon.net HEAL’S Red Marble Column Table Lamp, £149; heals.com HEAL’S Louis Jobst Monument Table Lamp, £399; heals.com
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Designer Focus
LIVING COLOUR
Artist and interior designer Luke Edward Hall is often hailed as a wunderkind for his rainbow-hued, maximalist aesthetic. Here, he shares his design journey and the inspiration behind his eclectic work Portrait REBECCA REID
“P
eople often ask me to explain what it is that I actually do, which, in fact, is harder than it sounds. My path to this point has been winding, and the truth is, I’m not always sure how best to describe myself. I studied fashion design in London and afterwards worked as an interior designer. I was then able to set up my own studio and, almost right away, I began working on a variety of projects - drawings for brands, a couple of collaborations, a bit of fashion stuff, a little interior design... I used to worry that I was doing too much, that I ought to focus on something in particular. Maybe that’s still the case, but, well, I can’t help myself. From painting pots one minute to designing hotel rooms the next and producing my own ceramics, fabrics, lighting and furniture, it’s a dream to be able to work on so many wondrous projects. As I get older, perhaps I will calm down. (I doubt it. There is still so much I want to explore.) Drawing is at the heart of all of my projects. Even a fabric design, a vase, or an interior will begin life as a sketch. Everywhere I go I take a sketchbook or loose bits of paper with me, a tin of watercolours, and a pencil case stuffed with an assortment of pencils and crayons. My work has a lot to do with storytelling, because I like to draw faces and people. Sometimes my drawings are based on real people, but more often than not, the people are dreamed up by me - they are imaginary characters belonging in imaginary stories. My work is very playful and colourful. Colour is my passion. To me, colour has a lot to do with optimism. I want to bring about joy when I draw and make and do things, and I suppose also a sense of freedom and hope. I adored art at school and I had good, kind, encouraging teachers. Sometimes I was the only member of the afterschool art club, but I never minded, all I wanted to do was make things. I learnt about photography at college and when I was 17, I started producing a fanzine. I designed it and pasted it together, my best friends contributed stories, fake diary entries, and thoughts on music and clothes. (We thought this was all the peak of hilarity and sophistication.)
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My family always supported my projects. Mum never minded when I covered the kitchen in PVA glue, Dad would go into his office on the occasional Saturday and print my homemade magazine, and Grandparents helped me build cardboard models of bridges with turrets and drawbridges. When I turned 18, I moved from my hometown to London. I interned at magazines and with fashion designers and ended up studying menswear at Central Saint Martins. Every day, I drew lost-looking boys wearing clothes I’d designed and made - tartan coats with blousy roses in their lapels, dip-dyed shirts, and handwoven jumpers with swans on. I dreamed of setting up my own studio, even though I didn’t know exactly what it was that I wanted to make or do. After leaving university, I started working for an architecture and interior design company, which I loved and which provided me with an inspiring foundation to build upon. I didn’t come from an interior design background, which meant I was learning new things every single day (and no doubt making many a mistake). I slowly started exploring my own ideas after work and at weekends, beginning with designs for fabrics, then ceramics. I began working with a ceramicist, whom I still work with to this day. Each piece we make has been thrown on a wheel or produced in a mould and then painted by me, a process that results in odd sizes, wobbly edges, and wonky lines. Over the past few years, I’ve been lucky to work with many brilliant people and institutions. I enjoy the idea of combining my drawings and vision with another brand’s expertise for manufacturing an exquisite product.
Rebecca Reid
“My work is about escaping the everyday, the grim, the grey and the ordinary. I’m constantly in search of a place or a feeling that is more beautiful, more unusual, more intense, and more alive”
Luke Edward Hall’s Hallway (left) and Living Room (right)
I’ve always been interested in the idea of blurring the boundaries between art and design. My hand-painted tablecloths, for example, were designed to be used for raucous dinner parties, but also to be hung on walls like giant tapestries might be. And why not? I love interiors that transport you, but also make you feel completely welcome and comfortable - a bar, say, that you can’t drag yourself away from because it makes you believe you’re lounging around in Palm Beach in the 1950s, when actually you’re in a wet corner of London on a grey day in 2019.
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HOME & INTERIORS
The Glossary Edit
I n s i d e
Rebecca Reid
Luke’s World
All artwork © 2019 Luke Edward Hall. All rights reserved.
The temporary spaces I’ve worked on have been all about this idea of transportation. Once, in an antiques showroom in West London, I had the idea of conjuring up a 1970s-inspired drawing room for latenight discos – all chocolate brown and tangerine walls, mirrored surfaces, fuchsia carpet, and ruby red-velvet upholstery (plus a shoal of Murano glass fish). Our flat in London, on the other hand, is not a stage set. It’s where we live and love to be, and it has changed over time. It’ll continue changing, too, as our interests evolve. Reassuringly, however, some things I know will always stay the same. I’m sure of that. The pictures of Duncan [Campbell, Luke’s partner and co-founder of design agency CampbellRey] as a baby on the fridge, say, or our haphazard mix of souvenir magnets, that giant houseplant that just won’t die, or the scallop shell that sits by the sink in our bathroom, a memento from a long-forgotten dinner. It goes without saying that I am a dreamer, but it’s not that I always want to be taken away to someplace else. Yet I thoroughly believe my work is about escaping the everyday, the grim, the grey and the ordinary. I’m constantly in search of something - a place or a feeling that is more beautiful, more unusual, more intense, and more alive.” Greco Disco - The Art and Design of Luke Edward Hall (teNeues, £45)
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FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Hand painted linen cushion, £395; Cup vase, £200 Lampshade, £245; Ludo drinks table, £900 Oval platter, £400; Yellow Etienne tray, £395 All available from lukeedwardhall.com Hydra slippers, £450, available from stubbsandwootton.com
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L A S T WO R D
MY GLOSSARY ZANDRA RHODES
The fashion designer reveals her little black book to the capital, from mocktails to modern art As told to GEORGIE LANE-GODFREY
HOME IS… Bermondsey. I’ve really seen the area change since I moved in back in 2003. I live in a penthouse above the Fashion and Textile Museum, the only building in England designed by Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta. It’s wonderfully colourful. FAVOURITE RESTAURANT Pizarro on Bermondsey Street. It’s an amazing Spanish tapas restaurant just down the road from my flat. I go there when I want something delicious and don’t want to cook myself. josepizarro.com THE DISH I ALWAYS ORDER IS… Wiener schnitzel at The Wolseley in Mayfair. thewolseley.com BEST COCKTAIL I don’t drink – I get too sleepy when I do – but my tipple of choice is a Seedlip Cup, a brilliant mocktail made with melon purée, mango juice and seasonal fruits that I like to drink at The Royal Automobile Club on Pall Mall. royalautomobileclub.co.uk FAVOURITE HOTEL The Savoy – I often go there to visit VIP clients. The Art Deco interiors are magnificent. thesavoylondon.com FAVOURITE MEMBERS CLUB 5 Hertford Street – I went to
Love magazine’s 10th anniversary party there. I loved exploring all of its pretty little rooms designed by Rifat Ozbek. It has a bohemian MoulinRouge vibe that feels very exotic. 5hertfordstreet.com FAVOURITE TERRACE The Summer Terrace at Café Royal. It’s got amazing views down Regent Street, where you can watch all the shoppers below you. It’s like a little oasis. hotelcaferoyal.com
you visit it – you aren’t just tramping through another department store. libertylondon.com MY SIGNATURE SCENT IS… Donna by Valentino. I found this fragrance after I designed a collection for Valentino. It’s lovely and light, with notes of bergamot and rose.(£76 for 50ml) harveynichols.com NATALIA GONCHAROVA, PEASANT WOMAN FROM TULA PROVINCE, 1910
FAVOURITE GALLERY I like to go to the V&A on a Friday evening when it opens late and just wander around. Every time I go there I find something new. The recent Dior exhibition was spectacular. vam.ac.uk
FAVOURITE SHOP I visit Liberty London a lot because my clothes are sold there. It’s got a real quaintness to it, which is unlike anywhere else. It feels special when
THE EXHIBITION THAT MOST IMPRESSED ME RECENTLY IS… Natalia Goncharova at Tate Modern. She was obviously such a strong, multi-faceted woman, and made so much thoughtprovoking art as well as costumes and set designs for Diaghilev’s ballets. tate.org.uk
KAT MACONIE
THE SAVOY KATE MALONE
I’VE CURRENTLY GOT MY EYE ON… A new vase by Kate Malone. I started collecting pottery years ago as it was more accessible than art, which I couldn’t afford back then. I’ve been collecting Kate’s ceramics since she was at the Royal Collage of Art. Her pieces are very special. katemaloneceramics.com
BEST BEAUTY SPOT There is a great nail bar in Kat Maconie opposite the Fashion and Textile Museum. It’s first and foremost a shoe shop, but you can get a manicure and pedicure whilst you try on Kat’s fabulous shoes. katmaconie.com FAVOURITE LANDMARK The Shard – I love how it lights up Bermondsey. It makes the streets look like a lovely Christmas card.
SECRET SPOT I recently discovered the courtyard restaurant at The Wallace Collection. It’s a beautiful place full of natural light, plants and sculptures – it’s my favourite spot for lunch. wallacecollection.org
FAVOURITE MUSIC VENUE I don’t tend to go to many concerts, but I recently went to watch the Proms at the Royal Albert Hall. There’s nowhere else quite like it for atmosphere – it really was spectacular. royalalberthall.com
5 HERTFORD STREET
Zandra Rhodes: 50 Years of Fabulous is on at The Fashion & Textile Museum, from 27 September 2019 – 26 January 2020, ftmlondon.org Zandra Rhodes: 50 Fabulous Years in Fashion, published by Yale University Press. THE SUMMER TERRACE AT CAFÉ ROYAL
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