T Magazine No. 7 by Gruppo Terroni

T 19

ISSUE Nº7

TERRONI MAGAZINE

Featured Region:

CALABRIA ( home of the Terroni family, not to mention a few other Italians in the GTA)

OUR VERY OWN C OSIMO MAMMOLITI ON THE VICES & VIR TUES OF BEIN G C AL ABRIAN Plus ONCE UPON A TIME IN MAMMA RITA’S KITCHEN – BY GIOVANNA ALONZI MAX STEFANELLI ON WHY YOU NEED TO BE DRINKING CALABRIAN WINE OUR FAVOURITE TERRONI INSTAGRAMS, COURTESY OF YOU

Fresh off the TIFF red carpet, we talk with ANIME NERE actors MARCO LEONARDI and PEPPINO FUMO when they visited us at Terroni last September

CONTRIBUTORS Publisher Elena di Maria Editor-in-Chief Francesca Vittoria Gironi

Giovanna Alonzi's been with Terroni for 13 years; she has worked at all locations and is their executive chef. Her last stint at Sud Forno was put on hold for the arrival of her second child this past July. She's currently on maternity leave, running around the city, swimming, baking, cooking from home, and hanging out with her two children and husband.

Design Small Director of Photography Stephanie Palmer Copy Editor Ashley Anne Brown Columnists Gianna Sami Giovanna Alonzi Contributors Max Stefanelli Jessica Allen Admin. Managers Patti Shaw Karina Watsone Many thanks to Marco Leonardi Peppino Fumo Rita Mammoliti Cosimo Mammoliti Boris Buettner La Pizzuta del Principe Jessica Allen T Magazine Headquarters 720 Queen St. W. Toronto, M6J 1E8 For inquiries and comments please email: francescav@terroni.ca Cover photo by Stephanie Palmer Follow us on

Instagram @terroniTO @terroniLA @Sud Forno @barcentraleTO

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Gianna Sami is the Wine Import Manager for Cavinona Inc, Terroni's exclusive wine supplier. She loves eating, drinking, travel, and good people; she considers it the utmost privilege when all 4 collide. Originally an LA native, she gave up the beautiful west coast weather to live in one of the best cities on earth: Toronto. She lives in the Annex with her dreamy husband and 2 strange cats.

Stephanie Palmer is the general manager of the Adelaide location in Toronto. She has been working with Terroni since 1998. A graduate of the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design (BFA’00), her passion for pasta is only eclipsed by her love of photography. For T-Mag issue number 7, she had a dream come true spending an afternoon photographing one of her high school crushes: the dashingly handsome and talented Marco Leonardi. To explore her latest work visit stephaniepalmerphotography.com and if you haven’t already seen it, check out Leonardi’s classic film, Cinema Paradiso, your heart will melt.

Max Stefanelli has been the director of operations for Terroni in Los Angeles since the company first expanded stateside. Max is also the primary wine director at all Terroni outposts. He’s particularly passionate about small production, artisanal wines that are rarely seen outside of Italy. He began working for Terroni in 1999, shortly after his arrival in Toronto from Bologna, Italy, where he was a miserable attorney unhappy with his career. When he isn’t tasting the bottled fruits of Italy, Max can be found playing ball hockey and zipping around on his shiny Vespa, or hanging out cooking at home with his beautiful wife, Francesca and their three gorgeous bambini.

Jessica Allen started working at Terroni as a dishwasher about 17 years ago. A remarkably quick study, she soon moved on to serving and eventually helped manage the Queen Street location. Even after she took a job at a magazine, Jess continued to manage Friday nights at the restaurant and, along with publisher Elena di Maria, helped launched this very magazine. Now that she works on a TV show — where, much to her disappointment and surprise they don’t serve pizza — her reign as editor in chief has come to an end. But just when you think you’re out, they pull you back in, so she (quite happily) compiled this issue’s Terroni Index.

Printed in Canada

TERRONI INDEX

TERRONI INDEX: JUST THE TOE (CALABRIA)

Percentage of world’s supply of Bergamot oranges grown in Calabria: 80% Number of years that the Amarelli family have been growing liquorice plants in Calabria: 283 Number of roads in Calabria in 1862, the year Italy was unified: 1 Number of railways: 0

Italy’s ranking of countries who provided Canada with the most immigrants in the ‘50s and ‘60s: 2 (after the British Isles)

Year that Calabria starting making ‘nduja, sausage paste made of pork, trimmings and dried red chili peppers: circa 1500

Number of Italians who left Italy between 1861 and WWI: 9 million Percentage of those immigrants who were from the south, including Calabria: 70%

Cosenza

Percentage of post-war Canadian immigrants who were Italian: 65%

Crotone

Percentage of Woodbridge’s population who are Italian: 50% (Canada’s ranking of largest population of Italians outside of the boot: 6) Calories in a cipolla rossa di Tropea, the famous sweet red onion that carries an Indicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP) status and has its own festival every August: 26

Tropea

Catanzaro

Vibo Valentia

San Giorgio Morgeto

Population of San Giorgio Morgeto, a tiny Calabrian town after which a Terroni pizza is named: 3,158 Number of people in San Giorgio Morgeto with the town’s most popular surname, Mammoliti: 129 Number of Calabrians with the most popular surname in the region, Romeo: 7,449

Reggio Di Calabria

Year that Gianni Versace was born in Calabrian province of Reggio Calabria: 1946

Total population of Calabria: 1.96 million

IN CONVERSATION WITH COSIMO ON HIS CALABRIA

IN C ONVERSATION WITH C OSIMO

My parents moved from Calabria because there was nothing there. My mom family moved here when she was 12. My father was the first of his family that moved here. After the war there was no food and there was no future there. He came here in the old fashioned way, by boat, walking from his village to Reggio Calabria when he was 17, all by himself. As soon as he settled, he called the whole family and they came here one by one. First off, what’s your connection to Calabria? My connection is one that I inherited. I grew up in a Calabrese family, with Calabrese dialect, Calabrese food, but I had never been to Calabria. So that was my perception of Italy when I was young, through the eyes of Calabrese immigrant parents and relatives. This was up until I was 17. Then I finally made it to Calabria. I didn’t know what to expect. My first stop was in my parents’ small town of San Giorgio Morgeto. It was my first time in Italy, and I was a bit shocked! Cosimo, at the age of 17, shipped his motorcycle to Europe and travelled all over the continent with it. His mother only found out when it was too late.

In what ways was it shocking? Well, it was such a small town: very backwards! To give you an idea, at nighttime it would be mostly men walking up and down the town. This was 30 years ago. I think that now things have changed, at least slightly! But it’s still a very small town. One pizzeria, a few bars, with a lot of very friendly and warm people. Why do you think things are still “rough” in Calabria? Some areas of Calabria are still very poor and undeveloped. This might be due to its location, in the very south of Italy and very far from the rest of Europe. Also, corruption is still very present, making things difficult for its people. It’s unfortunate because it’s very rich in possibilities. The territory is really rich, the land is green and lush. It could grow a lot more, but everything is held back. If I say Calabria, what do you say? Calabrisella mia! [famous Calabrian song] Ahahaha! Calabria… you know… warm, piccante [spicy]! Pure, in the sense that it’s very simple. And very beautiful. <– Sir Vince Mammoliti hunting in Calabria

Calabrese gathering in San Giorgio Morgeto, Calabria in the ‘40s

I can’t even remember how many families lived all under the same roof! When I was little I was living with my cousins and grandparents in the same house, and there were always other people that stayed over.

When we were kids we used to go to all these family gatherings and I remember there were so many kids, from 10-12 families, so there used to always be all this food and wine and the men would be working on something and the women would be cooking.

What is your vision of Calabria in the Italian context? I can say that, as much as it’s undeveloped and held back, one thing that everybody can say about Calabria is that its people are the most friendly and warm! They are really humble and generous; they would bring you into their homes and share whatever they have with you, even if it’s very little. The fact that it’s undeveloped, however, is also the beauty of it. The beaches are very raw, the drive up in the mountains and through the forest — it’s stunning! It’s still very pure and intact.

IN C ONVERSATION WITH C OSIMO

What is your vision of Calabria and Calabresi here in Toronto? Well, I grew up in a Calabrese context, and I think it’s taken to another level. When you leave your country and you come here you try to maintain as much heritage as you can. Calabrese families still make their tomato sauce, their soppressata, their sundried tomato. They try to keep their heritage maybe more than in Calabria itself, because they want to hold tight to those things and this goes to all the Italians here. I still make the salame the way my father used to do it: that is something that has naturally passed on. I think that Italian families that are here kept their traditions alive, which is a great thing! So do you think that this same concept influenced Terroni as well? I would say there isn’t a lot of Calabrese influence when it comes to the restaurant and the food, but I would definitely think that I tried to keep honest and true to the Italian traditions that I’ve experienced over the years there. I first went to Calabria when I was 17, but I went straight to Puglia after, where I spent more time. Then I travelled around Italy, Roma, Milano, Alto Adige and Campania, and I picked up ideas from all these places. Everything that I saw, touched or smelled, I absorbed it like a sponge and I wanted to replicate it when I came home. That’s what I think Terroni is more about. Yes, it’s “traditional Southern Italian” but it’s not just that, it’s more than that: it’s Italian. It’s my interpretation of southern Italian food, along with many traditional Italian dishes.

When I was little we would speak Calabrese dialect at home, so that was my first language. But then we switched to English.

Sir Vince (Cosimo's father) and his family in Calabria, 1945 circa

Do you still feel today a connection with Calabria, with your roots? Even if I go there very little, I definitely feel a connection, especially through my parents. I feel bad that I don’t go there often. I still have some close cousins there. Are you proud of representing your culture, Calabria and your people [Calabresi] through your achievements? 100 per cent! This is why I am really proud that I chose the name Terroni and to be one of them! For me it’s not a derogatory term, I am proud to be southern Italian, Calabrese in particular. I hope that my paesani can take some pride in the fact that Terroni has done well.

All I can say for sure is that the Calabrese people that are here, are really Calabrese! They speak a stronger dialect than they do in Calabria and they are holding onto their traditions and customs even more!

The Sausage Brothers making soppressata as their predecessors taught them, upholding onto their traditions

Are you proud of being able to import the Materia Prima [raw materials]? When you talk about growth in a business, that’s one of the best things on having more than one restaurant. Growing is giving me more power and ability to buy. Purchasing directly from Italy results in way better quality and exclusive products. I could buy cheaper stuff here, but it’s about getting exactly what we want for our food. It’s an advantage that we have. What is a Calabrese dish that reminds you of your childhood? Patate e pippi [potatoes and peppers]! Melanzane ripiene [stuffed eggplant], all those things that my mom would make all the time.

OS TERIA E BETTOL A

THE TERM OSTERIA MEANS: “PUBLIC ROOM, A PLACE WHERE DRINKS — BUT MAINLY WINE — ARE SERVED ACCOMPANIED BY SIMPLE MEALS.” THE WORD IS DERIVED FROM LATIN, MEANING FOREIGNER, TRAVELLER TO HOST.

BACK IN THE DAY: OSTERIA E BETTOLA

OS TERIA E BETTOL A

Osterias

go back to ancient Rome where they originated as refreshment spots for travellers passing through. Often plain and bare, they started as places to meet and be restored. Wine was ever-present, sometimes accompanied by food, bedrooms and prostitution. In the mid-1800s, with the beginning of foreign tourism in Italy, the term osteria took on the meaning of a pleasant place where common people could drink inexpensive-but-good wine and eat tasty local foods — all for a good price — and often in a charming setting.

The term bettola derives from the Latin “bevettola,” which means “place where you can drink.” Bettolas used to be shady taverns, usually frequented by criminals and people of the lowest class. In Italian when a place is referred to as a bettola it’s basically a hole in the wall and it’s been around forever. You go there for a glass of wine, a bite to eat and everything — and everyone — is familiar. Today, ironically, many refined and stylish restaurants proudly call themselves osterias.

The Marriage of Osteria La Bettola In 2007, after 12 successful years, Terroni on Victoria Street decided to move its location to the stunning and beautiful Courthouse on Adelaide Street East. That same year Cosimoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wife, Elena, of Pugliese origin, who moved to Toronto for love at the age of 23, dreamed to bring a little piece of Italy to her Canadian city. She was inspired by the desire to have a typical osteria with quality daily specials at an affordable price in her adoptive home. This is how Osteria Ciceri e Tria came about.

OS TERIA E BETTOL A

Costantino Guzzo, executive chef at Osteria la Bettola

This restaurant followed the same tradition as Terroni: simple food, an informal and easygoing atmosphere with a Pugliese influence. Expert gastronomists, who came directly from Puglia to showcase their regional traditions, created the menu. Once seated, guests are greeted with assaggini [small appetizers] just like they do it in Bari (Puglia). Even the name of this osteria is 100 per cent Pugliese. Ciceri e Tria is a typical Pugliese dish made up of chickpeas (ciceri) and handmade, hand cut pasta (tria). Today, this kind of laid-back concept of a simple menu featuring high quality ingredients is pretty popular in Toronto. But eight years ago it was no easy feat to introduce this style of dining. In 2010 the space next to Osteria Ciceri e Tria became available. Cosimo decided to take it over to open La Bettola di Terroni: an edited menu with traditional dishes and an interesting wine list made up mostly of Cavinona bottles (Terroniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s partner wine agency). The two restaurants shared the same entrance, the kitchens were back to back, the chefs naturally started to collaborate on the menus. At this point, it made sense to merge the two places. And Osteria la Bettola was born. Today the restaurant, lead by Sicilian chef Costantino Guzzo, features mainly typical Southern Italian foods. The assaggini originally from the Osteria are still on the menu and you can be paired with unique wines that are often made with obscure grape varietals from small producers. In other words, a perfect marriage.

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photos by Stephanie Palmer

DURING TIFF THE CALABRIAN ACTORS MARCO LEONARDI AND GIUSEPPE FUMO SHARED SOME TIME WITH US TALKING ABOUT THEIR NEW MOVIE ANIME NERE

ANIME NERE

ANIME NERE WITH MARC O LEONARDI

Marco Leonardi He is an Italian movie star of international caliber. Leonardi was born in Australia to Calabrian parents. He moved to Italy at the age of four and has starred in critically acclaimed films, including Academy Awardwinning Cinema Paradiso, Like Water for Chocolate and Once Upon a Time in Mexico.

ANIME NERE WITH MARC O LEONARDI

Marco, you’re of Calabrese origin and your movie Anime Nere is in Calabrese dialect, not to mention it’s all about Calabria. What was the connection between yourself and this movie? One year ago I heard about this movie when I was vacationing in Calabria. I immediately researched who the director was and I did what it took to win his interest. By chance Francesco Munzi [the director] was presenting a book close to my town. With more than 30 years experience as an actor, this was the very first time that I went and looked for the director myself. This tells you how much I feel Calabria inside of me. I could not bear the idea that someone else would act in this movie.

*‘Ndrangheta: is a Mafiatype criminal organization, centered in Calabria. It became the most powerful crime syndicate of Italy in the ‘90s, dealing with drug and human trafficking, extortion, kidnapping and money-laundering. Etymology: from ancient Greek, meaning brave, gentleman, man with valour. Marco and Giuseppe at Bar Centrale di Terroni.

attached to their roots. Anime Nere talks of that split in Calabria that still exists even if its people are forced to turn a blind eye to it. They’re black souls [anime nere] because unfortunately, some kids are born into families where their destinies are already marked. For instance, in the movie my dad had been killed by the ‘Ndrangheta and it was impossible for me, his son, not to have any connection with this reality and tradition. So they’re black souls without even choosing it.

A beautiful thing about Southern Italy is that there is still a tight sense of family; this shines through in Anime Nere. I have noticed this in Toronto also, among Calabrese families, they’re still maintaining If I say Calabria, you say…? old traditions, the ones their parents took Mare! Fimmene! [The sea, women] Well, with them when they left Italy years ago, there are so many things: scents, like after the war. herbs, flowers, wild oregano — probably the best oregano comes from Calabria. I don’t How did you stumble upon Terroni? know…the beauty of the sea with its deep I was actually at Terroni 15 years ago! By blue waters. now I am a loyal customer of Terroni! UsuI feel connected with the sea, that sea in ally when I travel I like to try anything and particular, the Ionian Sea. I grew up swim- everything, but if I hear there is a good Italming comfortably in those waters, since I ian restaurant I like to give it a try! was four. The sea for me in the summer is my second home and I’m trying to pass this Did the food at Terroni make you feel at on to my little son Francesco. home, did you feel a connection with your homeland? So is this connection with Calabria more Besides the connection, I still remember related to its nature? these amazing panini with our Italian proYes, but also with its wild side, a wilderness sciutto and cheese! Let’s say I was more that somehow belongs to its people as well, focused on magna` [Roman dialect for eatand in some circumstances this is a big ing]. added value; it is a virtue. What’s a typical dish you grew up with? Do you think that the Calabrian culture My mom’s parmigiana is to die for! I don’t is faithfully represented in Anime Nere? know exactly how she makes it: she has her Like the ‘Ndrangheta,* the traditions, the secrets. It is unbelievable! She puts eggs, very strong sense of family? mozzarella, fries the eggplant and obviousI think that Calabria still has very solid tra- ly like a good Calabrese I add the hot pepditions. Even if Calabrians try to keep up per. I eat everything with hot spicy peppers. with modern times they’re still very much I even eat them straight off the plant!

ANIME NERE WITH PEPPINO FUMO So we know that you are from Calabria and never acted before. How did you get to be in Anime Nere? One day I was at school in Gioia Tauro [Calabria] when two guys from the cast of Anime Nere came to visit each class looking for a face that could fit the character of Leo. They interviewed me briefly asking me general questions. Afterwards they came back to me asking if I wanted to audition. I said yes! Were you convinced from the beginning that you wanted to do it? No, no! Not in the beginning. After the first interview I didn’t think much of it. Back then I didn’t even own a cell phone and I gave the casting people my friend’s number. Later I learned that Munzi [the director] had called my friend a bunch of times trying to get in touch with me but I was never with him. Eventually, when I got a phone, I was able to talk to him. He wanted me to go for a second audition. At first, I was really shy, then my family convinced me to give it a try. I then met Marco Leonardi and other actors. I felt comfortable, like another person actually, surrounded by these famous Italian actors. I realized it was going to be a great experience. I decided to go ahead. If I say Calabria, what do you say? Ehhhh…I can say that Calabria is an amazing place, because I live here. Unfortunately, it also has a lot of negative sides: there are a lot of problems, one of the major ones is unemployment. The idea of leaving Calabria is difficult: I am really attached to the land I was born in, and it’s really hard to leave it behind.

What are your future projects? Do you have any trips planned? No, for now I want to study and become… I don’t want to say a movie star, but you’ll never know. I know for sure I want to stay in the movie business. I feel uplifted, because I found out that I just won an award for best emerging actor of 2014. I’m going to Sorrento in a few days to accept it. This encourages me and inspires me to keep on studying acting. What is a typical dish that makes you feel connected to Calabria or your family? My mom’s pasta with‘nduja! (‘Nduja see pag. 30-31) Toronto: what were your impressions? I found myself in a big city where I didn’t feel far from home. It actually felt like being home! Mainly because there are a lot of Calabrians — I even spoke my dialect! Toronto makes me feel at home! You know what I mean? Absolutely. So, you have met a lot of people of Calabrian origin here, haven’t you? Yes, lots! I was thousands of kilometers away from home but I felt like I was around the corner! How was your experience at Terroni? How did you like it? Beautiful! Beautiful! I loved it! You guys welcomed me as, I don’t know…like a true Calabrese! You guys were so welcoming!

Anime Nere (Black Souls) is a 2014 Italian feature film directed by Francesco Munzi, based on Gioacchino Criaco’s novel about a former drug trafficker who is drawn back into his family’s business by his impulsive teenage son. The film was selected to compete for the Golden Lion at the 71st Venice International Film Festival. It also screened in the Contemporary World Cinema section at the 2014 Toronto International Film Festival. In US theaters starting in April

Giuseppe Fumo, (aka Peppino) was just 17 years old when he was chosen from thousands of students in Gioia Tauro, Reggio Calabria, to star as one of the main characters in Anime Nere. This is his first acting role.

ANIME NERE WITH PEPPINO FUMO

photos by Stephanie Palmer

TAS TIN G C AL ABRIA

A CASA DI RITA CON LA CUCINA CALABRESE

TAS TIN G C AL ABRIA

18 Cosimo Mammoliti cooking authentic Calabrese recipes with his mom Rita.

TAS TIN G C AL ABRIA

In Calabria

the way one eats is a practice that has ancient and sacred origins. These are further influenced by traditions brought over through the centuries by the many cultures that visited its shores. In Calabria, the connection between spiritual and nutritional needs is very strong and heartfelt. This is why every religious feast has correlating traditional foods; a prime example being the 13 dishes prepared for Christmas and the Epiphany. Aside from religion, feudalism also left a remarkable imprint on the Calabrian diet. During this period, many were reduced to poverty and were forced to creatively enrich their foods through the addition of herbs and peperoncini (hot peppers) readily found in the Calabrian landscape. Oregano is sun dried, chili peppers are preserved in oil, dried, made into a paste or simply used fresh. They are added to everything from pasta sauces, to cured meats, fish or marinated vegetables. Particularly clever is the use of hot pepper in preparations like ‘nduja (‘Nduja: see page 30) or the sardella, a delicious paste made of baby sardines, hot peppers and olive oil that is also known as the “caviar of the poor.” Poverty permeated and affected all the culinary realms of Calabria. When a pig is killed for instance, every single part of the animal is used. This has resulted in such delicacies as ‘nduja and the frittule. Both of these pastes — made from parts of the pig that would have otherwise been discarded — have become world-renowned delicacies. Also as a consequence of poverty, pasta and bread are central components of the gastronomy of Calabria. A traditional type of Calabrese bread is the pane duro [hard bread], which is made of only semolina and water and then dried to last longer. Fortunately, the warm, temperate climate of Calabria yields some fantastic produce. Eggplant is queen, showing up in a variety of ways — from spicy spreads to pickling its pulp into pungent strands. Cipolla di Tropea is a uniquely sweet onion, red on the outside and white on the inside. Its PGI (protected geographical indication) is Capo Vaticano in the area of Tropea but it has made its way all over Italy, consumed mostly raw in salads but also made into delicious marmalade. Calabria is one of only a few producers in the world of Bergamotto, or the Bergamot orange. The yellow fruit is pear-shaped and its flavour is less sour than a lemon but more bitter than a grapefruit. It is used mostly as an essential oil but it is also in salads and for marmalades. Eating in Calabria is truly an experience for the senses but also an essential way of experiencing Calabrian life in its entirety. by Giovanna Alonzi

RECIPES ① Melanzane Piteia Easy – 15-20 fritters Ingredients: 1 large eggplant 500 gr. flour 300 ml. water salt to taste 1 garlic clove canola oil

② Patate e pipi (Zimbatò) Easy – serve 6 Method: Mince the garlic and mix it with flour and salt. Slowly add the water and beat until batter is smooth. Wash the eggplant and cut it into slices (1/4-inch thick). Boil it for 15 minutes (until soft). Cool the eggplant by soaking into ice cold water for 10 minutes. Drain eggplant and squeeze out excess water. Mix the eggplant with batter. Using a tablespoon, drop quenelles of the batter mixture into hot oil. Deep fry until golden brown.

Ingredients: 4 potatoes 2 red, 2 yellow, 1 green pepper 1 eggplant 1 white onion extra virgin olive oil salt to taste

Rita’s fact: “this is a really popular dish in Calabria and it could be made with many other ingredients as cod, white bait, sausage; you can also add hot chili peppers in the mixture. When bread was missing during meals, these fritters were used to replace it per fare la scarpetta [to mop up the sauce]”. ③ Baccalà con pumaduoru Easy – serve 6

④ Sacra con li fagioli Easy – serve 6

Ingredients:

Method: In a large non-stick frying pan place enough oil to cover the bottom, add the sliced onion and cook until lightly golden. Add the diced tomatoes and basil and cook on low heat for 10 minutes. Add the cod and cook on low for 10 minutes with the lid on semi-closed position. Salt and serve.

Ingredients:

Rita’s fact: “the Stocco [dialect for stockfish] is another popular dish in Calabria. The stockfish is unsalted cod, dried by cold air on wooden racks. To cook it, you have to cut it into big chunks and soak it for 3 days in water. Then you have to clean it from its bones and offal. You can cook it in different ways: I used to roast it with vegetables, and simply added oregano, garlic and olive oil”.

extra virgin olive oil

1 kg. cod fillet 2 tomatoes, diced 1 white onion 5 basil leaves extra virgin olive oil salt to taste

900 gr. chard 1 (450g) can of cannellini beans drained and rinsed 1 chili pepper 2 garlic cloves

salt to taste

Method: Slice the onion into thin slices, lengthwise. Cut vegetables into cubes. In a large nonstick frying pan place enough oil to cover the bottom, add onion and cook until lightly golden. Add the potatoes and cook them for 10 minutes on high heat. Add the rest of the vegetables and cook them for 30 minutes on low heat, until soft. Add salt. Rita’s fact: “we also used to eat this side dish as a filling for panini. You have to try it, è buonissimo! [it’s delicious]”.

Method: Wash and cut the chard leaves. In a large non-stick frying pan place enough oil to cover the bottom, add garlic and chili pepper and cook until lightly golden. Add the chard and cook on medium heat for 15 minutes. Add the beans and cook for other 5 minutes until soft. Serve drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. Rita’s fact: “I usually make the cannellini beans myself: I soak them in water over night and then I boil them with a little bit of olive oil and rosemary for 2 hours”.

RECIPES

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VINO C AL ABRESE

IL VINO CALABRESE

Calabria

is one of Italy's most rural of the region's wine production, mostly from the and least-industrialized regions Gaglioppo grape. in Italy. After WW2 many people emigrated and those left It is located at the "toe" of the Italian peninsula behind struggled to develop a vibrant wine industry. and characterized by its Mediterranean climate. To Only the red wines from Cir貌 garnered international the north are the Apennine Mountains and the east, attention. The region of Calabria was first cultivated south and west coasts are surrounded by seas: the by the Oenotrians, and then by the ancient Greeks. Ionian Sea, the Strait of Messina and the Tyrrhenian The Greek athlete Milo of Croton was from this Sea respectively. region and was reported to drink 10 litres of Cir贸 wine The majority of the region's wine production each day. Tradition has it that the wine is still made in the takes place in the central areas of the eastern and western coastlines. Red wine makes up 90 per cent same way today as it was in Milo's time.

VINO C AL ABRESE

Dottor Albino Bianchi in his winery

VINO C AL ABRESE

Cirò

The Cirò wine region is located in the eastern foothills of the La Sila region and extends to the Ionian coast. The region's “classico” heartland is centered around Cirò and Cirò Marina in the province of Crotone. The soil of this area is predominantly calcareous marl with some clay and sand deposits. The wines of the region contain at least 95 per cent of the Gaglioppo grape and up to five per cent of the white Greco bianco and Trebbiano grapes is permitted. The designation of Cirò classico will only appear on red wines. Red Cirò is typically very tannic and full bodied with strong fruit presence. It is often meant to be consumed three-to-four years after vintage but can take more time to soften the tannins. It is said that Cirò was offered to winners of the ancient Olympics. As many of you already know, the Mammoliti Family is originally from Calabria. With Cosimo and Anna, we tried many times to find a Calabrese producer to add to our CaVinona Portfolio. It took four years before we found La Pizzuta del Principe and we met Dottor Albino Bianchi — husband of the current owner Mrs. Clara. He is “an esteemed pharmacist belonging to a very old Noble Calabrian family” who runs the winery when he is not in his pharmacy. It almost sounds like a plot of an Italian movie from the ‘60s when we (Italians) still made movies worth watching.

Jacca Ventu Melissa Rosso DOC Varietals 95% Gaglioppo, 5% Greco Nero Vinification/Ageing 6 mo. in oak barrel, 2 mo. in bottle This wine has a beautiful ruby red color. The palate is full bodied, dry and fruity. It offers hints of pepper, mixed with aromas of red fruits present, the finish is long and well balanced.

I can see Albino (Marcello Mastroianni) in his white apron greeting customers entering his farmacia, then driving away in his Spider Alfa Romeo next to Clara (a very young Stefania Sandrelli), picking grapes in the vineyards and Clara barefoot, wine-stomping. I think this is the real reason why we picked this winery, which actually doesn’t make Cirò: Their main denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) is called Melissa, which is just south of the Cirò area. This wine is similar, but less international and more linked to the territory, which is the way we like it. It is still made with Gaglioppo grapes with a little Greco nero and sometimes blended with white wine grapes Greco bianco, Malvasia bianca and Trebbiano — just like Chianti use to be made up to 15 years ago. “La Pizzuta del Principe!” How can you go wrong with a name like that? Have a glass next time you’re in, or buy a bottle. While you’re at it, order a San Giorgio pizza, close your eyes and imagine you’re driving along the coast in your Spider Alfa Romeo. by Max Stefanelli

MANI IN PAS TA PAS TA “I still remember when you could only find eggs with a pale yellow yolk in Toronto, which meant that we weren’t satisfied with both the colour and the flavor of our homemade pasta. Cosimo went all the way to Manitoba to find the right yolk, which is both free-range and has a bright orange yolk!” — Giuseppina Esposito, Pasta maker at Terroni Adelaide (with Merlyn Jaca in the photo) The most recent count estimates that over 1000 types of pasta shapes — each one crafted to complement certain sauces — exist. Expert hands at our Adelaide location make our homemade fresh pasta, which is then delivered to all our restaurants, every day. Gem fact: The orange yolks of our freerange eggs is due to high quality feed that the hens consume. Daily Production: 1500 kg of fresh pasta

PANE “These breads don’t have chemical yeast, they are made with mother yeast. Mother yeast in Italy is considered “the famous nonna’s yeast.” If you do things in a traditional way, the end result reflects it.” Fabio Papa — Sud Forno’s head baker Our bread is made with high quality 100 per cent Italian grains and flours, exclusively imported from a mill in the Marche region of Italy run by the same family for three generations. Gem fact: Our mother yeast (lievito madre) is born, by mixing flour with water, which is left to acidify at high temperatures in order to ferment naturally in about 12 hours. Daily Production: 400kg – 500 loafs

photos by Stephanie Palmer

MANI IN PAS TA

PIZZA “As good as it is, we are always trying to make it better!” — Marco Bruno, executive chef at Terroni Queen Think about it: what started off as honest street food in southern Italy has evolved into something so extraordinarily successful that not even the original pizzaioli napoletani could imagine. Everyone loves pizza. Gem fact: We let our dough, which we prepare daily, rest for three days so it can ferment naturally. Due to this natural process our pizzas are lighter and more digestible. Daily Production: 670 pizzas from our Toronto locations

BOMBOLONE “As for the bread, we use mother yeast. Bombolone must be handmade — you can’t use machinery; this gives strength to the dough and it is able to rise properly.” — Luca Glerean, pastry chef at Sud Forno Is an Italian fried dough (similar to a filled doughnut). It originates from the 16th century in Tuscany. It’s etymologically related to “bomba” (bomb) due to its shape. The custard is freshly made every day. Gem fact: it takes three and a half hours to prepare the bombolone and sometimes only one hour to sell out. Why? Go ahead and try the Nutellafilled one to see for yourself. Daily Production: 200 bomboloni

INS TAGRAM

sudforno You know what's really great in stockings? #Homemade #jams and #preserves!

sudforno #Bombolone anyone? We're loving this photo from @atilyalalji, thanks for sharing!

sudforno Introducing il #nutellino! A #Nutella filled riff on the espresso macchiato

sudforno It's #porchetta #Saturday at #sudforno! Delicious porchetta #sandwiches

mrlancechung Friday gelato game #homemade #allnatural #gelato

sudforno now sells #fresh #homemade #pasta! 2 portions at $4.50 a pop

peppina44 #coffee #sudforno #shoppingbreak #toronto #italiansdoitbest #italianpastries

mangostudios Coffee shop romance at @sudforno with Sonya and Marty yesterday!

sudforno great time at Castello Italia! We served up #bomboloni and #cannoli to the masses!

janetkwan Bombolone filled with #nutella

chew.this Early coffee dates with beautiful tiles make Monday mornings a pretty nice time

paigezambonelli Lunch date // #yyz #terroni #pizza #coffee

INS TAGRAM

katherinefl0res Nutella fritters. f*** that's delicious. #terroni #dessert #nutella

fooddiva_toronto Affitisciuta & San Giorgio #SmokedScamorza #spicysausage #PriceSt

trishpapadakos Afternoon brainstorm session over lunch

erinpconnor Surprise dinner date at #Terroni...burrata, you know it!

terronito Had the BEST time at our #terroni staff party. The proof is in the photo booth

terronito We're gearing up for another #coravinsunday at@barcentraleto!

sampireb Torta Calda al Cioccolato @terronito

thee_wolf_king_lost Entree time !! Sausage Truffle Pasta!! Sooo amazing!!

punkodelish Perfect summer lunch #farinataBarbabietole #chickpeapancake #beets

chew.this Boxing day. Fueling up at my fave Italian joint @terronito before hitting the sales.

terronito #Terronitivotonight at Adelaide #Aperitivo, complimentary appetizers, #DJ

thestopcfc Another day, another drop-in lunch! #communitysupport @TheStopCommunityCenter

BORIS AND ‘NDUJA

by Stephanie Palmer

Terroni

Adelaide chef Boris Buettner spent summers at his family’s vacation home in Sicily, which meant he not only got to spend time lounging on some of Italy’s loveliest beaches but he also came to love and consume untold amounts of assorted Italian salumi. “Since I was a small boy I was always fascinated with how the Italians made their salumi. I gave myself a life-long quest to crack the authentic recipes,” explains Buettner as he begins his weekly process of making 90 lbs of the spicy spreadable traditional Calabrese sausage ‘nduja. Authentic ‘nduja

BORIS AND ‘NDUJA

is a beautiful thing and quite rare to find outside of Calabria. Thanks to Buettner, you can find the real deal at Terroni. Take some Cumbrae Farms organic pork, chili peppers (dried, smoked and crushed by Buettner himself), smoked paprika and the finest sea salt, then dry-age it for three months in our cantina and presto: tutti a tavola a mangiare! Keep your eyes open for ‘nduja on our daily specials, like the pizza con la ‘ndjua di spilinga or the rigatoni con la ‘nduja, and enjoy an authentic taste of Calabria.

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