Q3 2023

OLY'S REEF UNDERSTANDING PAR STRATEGIC FEEDING

POTO'S ACRO JUNGLE

THIRD QUARTER

2023 | Volume 17

VICTORY REEF

Wes Corbyn, owner of Intrinsic Reef Design in Austin, TX, has kept aquariums since ’91 and worked in the aquarium industry since ’99. Wes is lucky enough to work on the 600-gallon reef of his dreams, but it hasn’t always been smooth sailing.

UNDERSTANDING PAR FOR IMPROVED CORAL COLOR

Joseph Ghosheh is the owner of Carolina Coral Heads, a business specialized in aquaculturing rare corals. Understanding PAR in context is one of the first steps in achieving great coral color. An expert introduces the all-important concept here.

ON THE COVER

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FEEDING YOUR FISH: A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS

Keith Moyle is a 47-year veteran reefer and the owner of Kahuna Reef Motivation. Feeding your fish the correct foods in the right way is essential for their health. Could you be providing a better diet for your fish? This deep dive into feeding will help you decide.

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OLY’S REEF: DIVERSITY ON DISPLAY

Olivier Schaad is a reefer living in Zurich, Switzerland, with 28 years of experience in the hobby. An emphasis on high-quality equipment, supplements, and food are hallmarks of this glorious Swiss display.

THE GOLDEN ANGELFISH (Centropyge aurantia)

Art Parola is a decades-long hobbyist who currently works on policy and legislative issues related to pets and wildlife. The Golden Angelfish is one of the most exquisite pygmy angelfishes. Check out this review of the species and what it might take to keep one in your tank.

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.25 - GALLON REEF

Brendan Ross, the creator of ReallySmallReefs.com, has been around the hobby his entire life and is now pushing the limits of how small a reef can be. The challenge of balancing a microhabitat isn’t for everyone, but here you can see the journey of creating a .25-gallon reef.

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VICTORY REEF

WES CORBYN

Igrew up in the ’90s reading TFH and FAMA magazines. The glossy pictures of successful aquariums and exotic locales were my connection to a hobby that few people in my small town were interested in. Articles written by the pioneers of reefkeeping, like Julian Sprung and Charles Delbeek, were major influences in my

life. Books like Mike Paletta’s Ultimate Marine Aquariums took the guesswork out of what was required for a successful tank. These publications inspired my lifelong passion, and in 2008, I started an aquarium service company. I was helped along by the people who took the time to share, and now I want to contribute back

to the hobby. I am ecstatic to share this tank with the community. This was a collaborative effort with my client, and without his vision, I would not be able to work on the tank of my dreams.

Six years ago, I was hired to manage this 600-gallon system full of problems. As I corrected the equipment issues and corals started growing, we were faced with a new problem: Green Star Polyps and blue Palythoa were taking over and choking out other corals. One day, I decided they had to go and manually scrubbed and removed what I could. When I got home that night, I had flu-like symptoms. The next morning, my hand was twice its normal size and I landed in urgent care. As the doctor inquired about my profession, I was anxious that I was having a reaction to the aquariums that were my livelihood. In 10 years of full-time aquarium service, I had never experienced this. We concluded that I had been poisoned by palytoxin while removing the Palythoa. The owner and I decided the Green Star Polyps and palys had to be completely removed. We assembled a crew with respirators, goggles, and gloves and spent a week breaking down the tank, carefully removing corals with a band saw, and starting over. New rock and sand were added, and we were very careful not to reintroduce a single polyp of the offending corals.

DISPLAY

This acrylic tank measures 54" long, 54" wide, and 48" tall. Essentially, it is a big cube viewable from four sides. The aquascape is made of Real Reef Rock, drilled and mounted on a PVC skeleton. After the rockwork was set up, my client stated that he wanted every rock covered with corals. I was a little daunted by this challenge. There is a central rock pyramid stacked around the overflow and return, and there are two vertical columns that, in hindsight, were positioned too close to the viewing panes. As the corals grew, I was unable to get magnet cleaners into the corners without damaging corals. One side of the aquarium is viewable from the porch and lets natural sunlight in. This is helpful in lighting the vertical structure from an angle and keeps corals alive that would normally be shaded from above.

SETBACKS

Four years ago, we reset this system and added fast-growing corals to fill the vast empty space. Corals like Pavona, Montipora capricornis, Anthelia, and mushrooms spread rapidly. They quickly became unmanageable at the bottom of this 4-foot-deep tank. When physical removal wasn’t practical, we resorted

to alternative means, like “boxing in” corals with stinging Euphyllia and using plating corals to shade fast growers.

Changes in a system this large can quickly get out of hand, and for us, that came in the form of coral disease. Unfortunately, the bacteria that cause STN and RTN (slow/rapid tissue necrosis) were introduced with some of the new corals. Once pathogenic bacteria are active on stressed corals, they are more likely to spread to healthy corals. This can be controlled by fragging and dipping, but with large colonies in a deep tank, it was nearly impossible. I reached out to a company that developed a paste to treat SCTLD (stony coral tissue loss disease) in the wild. We were slowly losing large colonies, and I pleaded with them to let me test the paste in a closed system. The treatment was very effective at halting the STN and decreased its recurrence. With the underlying issue under control, it bought us time for the corals to recover.

PARAMETERS

• Temperature: 76–78° F

• Specific Gravity: 1.026

• pH: 8.1–8.35

• Nitrate: 5–10 ppm

• Phosphate: 0.04–0.08 ppm

• Alkalinity: 7.5 dKH

• Calcium: 480 ppm

• Magnesium: 1,300 ppm

DOSING

• 714 mL of liquid soda ash (daily)

• 155 mL of Red Sea Foundation A (calcium and strontium) (daily)

• 71 mL of Red Sea Reef Energy AB+ (daily)

• Red Sea Trace-Colors A, B, C, and D (weekly, according to calcium consumption)

• Pax Bellum Nitrogen+Molybdenum and Iron+Manganese (3 times per week)

• Polyp Lab Reef Roids and Polyp Booster (weekly)

• Neptune Apex system with two DOS modules

Alkalinity and pH management in this system has been quite a challenge. One observation I’ve made managing dozens of systems is that the relationship between alkalinity and pH varies from tank to tank. For this system, I dose 2-part and run a kalkwasser reactor fed by a Neptune DOS doser. I used kalkwasser over 20 years ago with Berlin systems but transitioned to calcium reactors, as many hobbyists did. We tried two different calcium reactors on this system, along with CO 2 scrubbers, and alkalinity and calcium would stay in range, but pH was suppressed. Coral growth and color were lackluster. Finally, with 2-part and kalkwasser, I was able to keep the pH range between 8.35 during the day and 8.15 at night. Everything came to life. Acropora color and polyp extension improved, and delicate specimens thrived.

LIGHTING

• (8) EcoTech Radion XR30 Pro

• (2) Kessil A500X

• (2) Kessil AP700

• (3) Kessil A160 (for dark corners)

FILTRATION

Protein Skimmer: Deltec 6000i

Chaeto Reactor: Pax Bellum A.R.I.D. C36

UV Sterilizer: Aqua UV, 120 watts

Return Pump: (2) EcoTech Vectra L2

Macroalgae: Caulerpa racemosa in refugium

Media: AquaNeat bio sponge

Other: live rock

WATER MOVEMENT

• (4) EcoTech MP60

• (2) Maxspect Gyre 280

• (3) Neptune WAV

We control everything we can in our reefs, but sometimes we feel helpless in the face of uncontrollable events. The winter storm of 2021 is a good example. Austin was not equipped for 8 inches of snow, and many lost power for over a week. The roads were not passable for 6 days, and I could only fret and hope that our backup systems functioned as planned. Some did, some didn’t, and I learned from that. Thankfully, this aquarium is connected to an automatic generator, and we had thoroughly tested it and prepared for such an event. All of the animals survived for 6 days without anyone able to get to them. Preparing our closed systems for these eventualities is important. Water will leak, power will go out, and equipment will fail. The Neptune Apex monitoring system has saved this tank more times than I can count. Redundancy and backup plans are integral to long-term success.

In the near future, the office that houses this aquarium will undergo a major renovation. The idea of breaking this system down, saving as much coral as possible, and starting over gives me anxiety, but it is also exciting to start from scratch and engineer solutions to problems that have arisen over time with the current system. I am looking forward to the next iteration of this magnificent system and sharing the results with the community. R

Understanding PAR for Improved Coral Color

As a local aquarium store owner, one topic my customers ask about frequently is PAR, which stands for photosynthetically active radiation. Appropriate PAR levels are important for maintaining coral health and growth. Understanding what PAR is and what factors contribute to appropriate PAR in a reef aquarium are crucial for success if you want to have colorful, thriving corals.

UNDERSTANDING PAR

PAR refers to the total energy of light between 400 and 700 nanometer wavelengths. These are the main light frequencies that plants and the symbiotic algae within corals use for photosynthesis. However, the PAR number alone gives no information about the distribution of energy within that spectral range, which is far more important for coral color. You can have two very different-looking lights, e.g., a bluish light and a reddish light, that have equivalent PAR output but very different spectral frequency distributions. In modern LED fixtures, these spectral outputs are influenced mainly by diode choice, diode mix, and software customization.

CUSTOMIZING LIGHTING FOR YOUR AQUARIUM

The ideal PAR numbers for your aquarium may differ significantly from the displays in my store, as there are numerous factors that influence each captive reef environment. As an example, we run different light schedules on each of the tanks in our store. It is

essential to customize your lighting based on the specific needs of the corals you are keeping.

The best way to accurately measure the PAR levels in your aquarium is with a PAR meter. This device can help you determine the actual PAR values at different points in your tank, allowing you to make informed decisions when adjusting your lighting or identifying ideal locations for your corals.

I always recommend starting with lower light levels and gradually increasing them, observing your corals for feedback. If your corals appear on the darker side, that may simply indicate insufficient light, though it could also be the result of excessive nutrients relative to the light level. Conversely, if your corals begin to appear too light or even bleached, they may be receiving too much light or too few nutrients relative to the light level. In my experience, corals seem to tolerate insufficient light better than they do excessive light. The key is to make adjustments slowly to find the optimal lighting conditions for your aquarium. Remember, nothing good happens fast in this hobby!

CONSIDERATIONS FOR DIFFERENT CORAL TYPES

Different corals have different PAR requirements. This should come as no surprise since corals hail from various depths and habitats. Small-polyp stony (SPS) corals typically require higher PAR values

than large-polyp stony (LPS) corals. But keep in mind that you should research each of your specific corals since there are deepwater Acropora that prefer lower PAR and shallow-water LPS that prefer higher PAR. In a mixed-reef aquarium with many types of corals, I recommend creating areas to mount your corals at varying depths within your aquascape so you can place corals lower or higher to accommodate their different lighting needs. Use a PAR meter to measure each area of the aquascape where you plan to

place your corals and strategically position them where they will receive the optimal level of light.

ADJUSTING LIGHT SETTINGS OVER TIME

Although it is crucial not to change light settings too frequently, some adjustments may be necessary as your aquarium evolves. Certainly, as home reefs grow in and there is more coral shading, changes may be required. However, these changes should be made

Appropriate PAR levels help corals reach their maximum color potential.

gradually and coupled with close observation of the corals. Any changes you make to your lighting will take some time to have a noticeable effect, so patience is key here.

BALANCING

LIGHT SPREAD AND PAR

The distance between your lighting fixture and the water’s surface, as well as the depth of the corals below the water line, significantly impact PAR values at the coral’s surface.

Many of the LED fixtures available in the hobby either have built-in diffusers or offer them as an accessory. Diffusers improve light distribution and

overall visual aesthetics by evenly spreading the emitted light across the aquarium, eliminating the spotlight effect that many aquarists dislike.

NUTRIENTS AND CORAL COLORATION

Of all the factors that affect coral color, I consider nutrients to be the most important. I believe that maintaining detectable levels of nutrients, such as phosphate and nitrate, can help corals tolerate higher PAR without getting burned. We typically target 0.08 ppm for phosphate and 10–15 ppm for nitrate. I’m not recommending this as an ideal approach for all; I’m simply sharing what has worked for us. Of course, there are many other factors influencing coral color, including proper water flow, dissolved oxygen levels, and pH and alkalinity stability, to name a few. If any of these other parameters are substantially outside of their optimal ranges, then the best light in the world won’t get you great color.

CONCLUSION

This is only an introduction to PAR and the concepts related to PAR in a home reef. When it comes to lighting in a reef aquarium, there are other fundamental concepts that need to be well researched and understood, such as spectral output and light intensity versus duration. Each of these topics is complex enough to deserve its own article.

There are no magic numbers or settings that will work for every system. Focus on observing your specific corals and customize your lighting accordingly, rather than trying to replicate the PAR values of others. With patience, careful observation, and a PAR meter, you can begin to create the ideal lighting environment for your corals to maintain optimal health and reach their full color potential. R

POTO's Acro Jungle

Growing up, I was always fascinated by nature and wildlife, and I have kept nearly every pet you can name. So it was only a matter of time before I was bitten by the reefing bug. I remember the beginning like it was yesterday. A friend was giving away a 90-gallon tank. It wasn’t drilled, so I set up a U-tube-style overflow with a CD case flipped upside down as the overflow box. I then signed up with every reefing forum I could find. Fifteen years later, I have turned my hobby into a business, a coral shop on Staten Island.

EARLY LESSONS

There is a saying: “If you don’t fail, you’re not even trying.” My early reefing journey was marked by what can best be described as

trials and tribulations. This hobby calls upon us to learn aspects of marine biology and practice various disciplines, including plumbing, carpentry, electrical work, and water-chemistry management. Failure is common and necessary. If I could go back, I would have tested my water more frequently and started with better equipment. Not testing your water is like driving a car blindfolded; you’re definitely going somewhere, but eventually you’ll crash. And as a beginner, you need the most reliable equipment you can get to help navigate the steep learning curve that comes with being a new reefer. Finally, know that there is no one right way to achieve success. Every successful reef tank is unique and has achieved success on its own terms and timeline. Follow experienced reefers you trust and try to learn from their husbandry practices.

SYSTEM DESCRIPTION

This system is a 211-gallon peninsula custom made by Miracles Aquariums. It measures 68" long, 30" wide, and 24" tall. The tank sits on a custom aluminum stand that is 46" tall. The tall stand elevates the tank to the eye level of an average-height person. An added benefit of a tall stand is that you get more room to work with under the tank. Despite the fact that it’s the store’s most visible display, I designed it to be as simple as possible. With different staff conducting maintenance, the less complex it is, the less likely someone unfamiliar with its operation and equipment will make a mistake.

EQUIPMENT

Lighting: (3) ATI Straton LED

Return Pump: EcoTech Vectra L2

Skimmer: Reef Octopus Regal 200INT 8", VarioS pump

Water Movement: (2) EcoTech MP40, (3) Maxspect Gyre 350

Calcium Reactor: Reef Octopus CR200 8" DC

Doser: Kamoer FX-STP, BRS Top Off Doser

Controller: Neptune Apex

Recently, we started to supplement kalkwasser in addition to running the calcium reactor. This is accomplished with a BRS Top Off Doser (50 mL/min) on a Neptune Apex controller scheduled to dose every hour. The run time depends on alkalinity consumption. Currently, it runs for 45 seconds every hour but will likely increase soon. Our alkalinity hovers at 7 dKH but can vary greatly. Since the beginning, this tank has run with high nutrient levels. At its highest, phosphate once registered 0.9 ppm, but currently, the sweet spot is around 0.08 ppm. Our husbandry routine hasn’t changed in 5 years, since the beginning. We test alkalinity daily and phosphate twice a week. Twenty percent water changes are performed with Instant Ocean salt weekly. Elevated phosphate and nitrate levels are not always detrimental. In my opinion, consistency outweighs all.

FILTRATION

Mechanical filtration is provided by the skimmer, as filter socks are not employed. The main biological filtration is handled by the live rock and refugium. I do wish I had more space for a larger refugium since it is not big enough for a display of this size. Once in a while, I find the need to dose a few drops of lanthanum chloride when phosphate trends upward. As the corals grow out, they have become quite efficient at sequestering nutrients since zooxanthellae absorb phosphate and nitrate for photosynthesis. We once removed a large acro colony and the phosphate level went up almost immediately.

LIVESTOCK

From day one, this tank was designed for Acropora. As time progressed, I realized I needed to diversify the colors a bit and cater the tank’s look and feel to the novice hobbyist. Slowly, I added some LPS (large-polyp stony) corals on the bottom and dedicated an island to Bubble-tip Anemones.

FISH

• Male Swallowtail Angelfish (Genicanthus melanospilus)

• Yellow Tang ( Zebrasoma flavescens)

• Magnificent Foxface (Siganus magnificus)

• Blue Hippo Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus)

• Yellow Coris Wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus)

• Starcki Damsel (Chrysiptera starcki )

• (2) Madagascar Wideband Clownfish ( Amphiprion latifasciatus)

• (2) Black Leopard Clownfish ( Amphiprion ocellaris)

• Black Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon negrosensis)

• Ornate Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon ornatus)

• Blue Star Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon bipartitus)

• Six-line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)

• Target Mandarin (Synchiropus picturatus)

• Ruby Red Dragonet (Synchiropus sycorax)

• Blue-eyed Cardinal ( Zoramia leptacantha)

• Diamond Sand-sifting Goby (Valenciennea puellaris)

• Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto)

• Wheeler's Shrimp Goby ( Amblyeleotris wheeleri ) w/ pistol shrimp

There are a few quirks with this system that are worth mentioning. Our water mixing station with RO (reverse-osmosis) water storage is in the back of the store, and the tank is in the front. There is an auto top-off line running the length of the store to provide fresh, gravity-fed RO top-off water to the tank through a ½" PVC pipe, only reduced

to ¼" tubing right at the tank. The refugium is a repurposed auto topoff container. The system used to run a Vertex Alpha 250 skimmer, but it was too powerful and we noticed the corals suffering color loss and a lack of polyp extension. We downsized to a Reef Octopus Regal 200INT and currently only run the skimmer 12 hours a day. There is a 2" deep detritus bed in the bottom of the sump that is never disturbed; the same goes for all the other SPS (small-polyp stony) coral systems I maintain in the store. I consider this detritus a haven for the bacteria and microfauna that contribute to the corals' colors and the stability of the system.

During the early days of the system when it was struggling to cycle after starting with only dry rock, I dosed every possible bacterial product on the market to no avail. But when I introduced live rock from other established and successful SPS tanks, the display turned around in

a month. Acros started to color up and show growth, and polyp extension improved.

I plumbed this tank with an adjustable-flow manifold, but as time went on, I didn’t end up using it at all. A system will never be exactly the way

it was planned; it will be an ever-changing and dynamic environment, and your reefing skills will be honed through constant trial and error, learning, and adaptation. With patience and perseverance, no reefing obstacle is too big to overcome, and despite some setbacks, I think this tank turned out pretty nice. R

FEEDING YOUR FISH: A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS

KEITH MOYLE

INTRODUCTION

Most hobbyists spend an abundance of time researching and planning their reef aquariums. Countless hours can easily be spent gathering information on topics like filtration, water movement, nutrient control, lighting, and livestock selection. However, this depth of research often doesn’t extend to a subject that is equally if not more important to successfully maintaining a marine aquarium: the feeding needs of the fish. While this sounds obvious, there are many considerations surrounding appropriate feeding, and the vast array of available foods on the market can make these decisions feel overwhelming. In this article, I will explore the options available to provide a suitably healthy and varied diet for your fish.

Before we dive into the specifics of which foods to feed to what fish, it’s important to have a basic understanding of the general nutritional needs of marine fish. These nutritional components are arranged into the same five groups as they are for humans: proteins, fats, vitamins, minerals, and carbohydrates.

PROTEINS

The majority of nutrients in most commercial foods on the market come from proteins, which make up 40 to 60 percent of most products geared toward carnivores and omnivores. High-protein ingredients such as fish and shrimp meal provide a reliable supply of the essential amino acids required by fish to grow and thrive. If adequate proteins are not present in their diets, fish growth rates may decline.

FATS

Fats not only enhance the taste appeal of fish food but also offer a highly digestible energy source and essential fatty acids that contribute to overall health. Fish oils, rich in unsaturated fatty acids, are frequently utilized as a fat source in commercial fish food. However, antioxidant preservatives are needed to prevent rapid fat spoilage. Additionally, fats in fish food are vital for providing some vitamins needed by fish.

VITAMINS

When it comes to fish health, vitamins are arguably the most important of all five groups, as a deficiency in any of the required vitamins can lead to health issues, such as poor appetite, anorexia, or pop-eye. Vitamins can be classified as either water-soluble (B and C) or fat-soluble (A, D, E, and K). Foods are generally manufactured with elevated vitamin levels to account for the vitamins’ rapid degradation during production and prior to consumption. Vitamin C, an antioxidant, is considered especially critical for maintaining optimal fish health.

MINERALS

Minerals play an important role in promoting healthy bones, teeth, and scales in fish. Most marine fish foods contain abundant minerals, even though fish can extract some (such as calcium and magnesium) from their saltwater environment. The most important minerals for fish health are calcium and phosphorous, followed by other essential minerals like iron, iodine, magnesium, sodium, potassium, copper, and zinc.

CARBOHYDRATES

The inclusion of carbohydrates in fish diets is an interesting topic since there is no scientific evidence that they are necessary. However, they do provide a beneficial source of energy for fish. There is some evidence that carbohydrates from the fiber found in corn and wheat (often used in fish food production) slow down food utilization, leading to improved digestion and nutrient absorption.

FEEDING BEHAVIORS

Before exploring the variety of available fish foods, it’s essential to understand the natural feeding behaviors of your fish. First and foremost, determine whether the fish is herbivorous, omnivorous, or carnivorous, as this information will guide the basic food types it requires. Additionally, determine whether it grazes surfaces or feeds from the water column to help select the most suitable forms of food. Most marine fish can easily be provided with a varied and staple diet. However, certain species such as Mandarins and Moorish Idols present specific challenges and should only be kept following careful research and provided you can meet their specialized feeding requirements on a long-term basis.

MENU CHOICES

DRY FOODS

Dry foods are some of the best ways to ensure that your fish get all their necessary nutrients. There are many options available,

including the ever-popular flakes, pellets, and even food made for grazers.

Flake food is the most convenient and popular choice for good reason. High-quality flakes ensure your fish’s dietary requirements are met and serve as a good foundation for your feeding regimen. Most brands offer a wide variety, including a basic daily diet, specialized options for herbivores or carnivores, color-enhancing foods, and foods with flavor and nutritional enhancers. While a mixed diet is recommended, flakes are excellent as the main component.

Pellets, like flakes, offer a nutritionally complete diet and come in a variety of options tailored to specific types of fish. Pellets are available in various forms—soft, hard, floating, sinking, small, or large—and can be used as an alternative main food or to provide variety.

Pellets offer greater feeding control than flake food, as it’s easier to monitor consumption. They are also less likely to disintegrate and spread around the tank,

reducing the chances of overfeeding. This helps prevent uneaten food from ending up in the rockwork or the overflow, making for a cleaner tank with lower nutrient levels. Pellets can be target fed to most invertebrates and some corals, ensuring they are fed deliberately rather than relying on passive feeding.

Nori, in sheet form, should be offered on a regular basis to supplement the diets of all herbivores and omnivores, including tangs and angelfish. Feeding clips with either suction cups or magnetic mounts can be used to hold the algae sheets in place while the fish graze.

FROZEN FOODS

Frozen foods provide a more natural food source for your fish and, like dry foods, offer a wide range of options to suit all tastes. Explore the freezer at your local aquarium shop and you’ll find Mysis and brine shrimp, krill, whole and chopped mussels, fish and lobster eggs, lance fish, squid, and cockles, among others. Some foods such as brine shrimp may be enriched with additives like spirulina or garlic, providing additional choices for the aquarist. Frozen foods generally come in preportioned blister packs, though larger, more cost-effective slabs are sometimes available.

Frozen foods are often more readily accepted by finicky feeders and can be useful for weaning such fish onto other food types. Soaking frozen food in flavor enhancers prior to feeding can be a good way to encourage picky species to feed in captivity. If you keep predators that require larger foods, consider feeding frozen lance fish, silversides, mussels, squid, and cockles, since appropriate live food alternatives are unlikely to be available. Some species such as triggers and puffers will benefit from eating shelled food, as breaking the shell to access the flesh helps keep their beaks from becoming overgrown. More delicate feeders such as Long-nosed and Copperband Butterflies will appreciate eating from

an opened shell. At the opposite end of the spectrum, fish and lobster eggs are great foods for pipefish, seahorses, Mandarins, and smaller gobies if they can be weaned onto them as an alternative to live foods.

For those who keep nano tanks with low feeding demands, look for frozen food packs that contain a selection of four or more food types. This allows a varied diet to be fed without needing to buy multiple packs that may exceed their shelf life before they’re used up.

SUSPENSION FOODS

Another option is liquid suspension foods, which can be fed directly to the tank. While they provide the same benefits as frozen food, they are a more convenient option since defrosting is not required. Once open, some brands do need to be refrigerated and have a relatively short shelf life. Krill, brine, baby brine, Mysis, and copepods are all available in this form from companies like Reef Nutrition and Nyos.

LIVE FOODS

A variety of live foods can serve as treats for your fish or, in some cases, as an essential food for species that won’t accept frozen or dry foods. You’ll typically find copepods, brine shrimp, and Mysis available at your local aquarium shop. These are often used to entice finicky feeders such as Mandarins, pipefish, and some butterflies to eat until they can be weaned onto frozen foods or other alternatives. Some freshwater options such as river shrimp can provide a similar interim food source for larger species such as lionfish, puffers, and groupers.

When keeping fish like Mandarins and Scooter Blennies, which eat copious amounts of copepods daily, it’s important to maintain high pod populations to avoid starvation and premature death. It’s not advisable to introduce these fish to a reef less than 12 months old, especially in reefs that are created with artificial rock lacking natural pod populations. Build pod populations by adding them weekly, allowing the population to become sustainable before introducing such fish. Be prepared to replenish pod populations as needed. Ideally, add pods to the aquarium after dark to minimize the chance the fish will eat them before they find their way into the rockwork.

When using live foods, avoid introducing the shipping water and rinse the live food in reverse-osmosis or tank water using a suitably sized mesh sieve or fish net before feeding. Bear in mind that while live foods may most closely replicate the natural diets of reef fish, it may be difficult to provide them in sufficient quantities or diversity to meet your fish’s nutritional needs long term. For this reason, try to wean fish onto frozen, flake, or pellet foods as their staple diet whenever possible.

SUPPLEMENTS & ADDITIVES

Although most flake and pellet foods have beneficial ingredients such as vitamins, oils, and fats added during the manufacturing process, this is generally not the case with frozen foods. Other food products, such as spirulina, can be found as supplements in some frozen foods. Manufacturers often feed spirulina to various shrimp before freezing to enhance their nutritional profile.

Enriching frozen foods prior to use is recommended, especially if they serve as the fish’s primary diet. While I don’t recommend frozen foods as a main diet, I acknowledge that some fish will never accept alternatives. Liquid vitamin supplements can be added to defrosted frozen food an hour before feeding to allow for the vitamins to be absorbed. Typically, these supplements contain a range of vitamins, such as A, D, and E, which enhance the nutritional value of frozen foods and help support a healthy immune system. If the fish’s diet is not supplemented by dry foods, I’d recommend vitamin supplements at least once or twice weekly.

GARLIC

The use of garlic in the hobby is somewhat controversial, and there are a few distinct beliefs as to what (if any) benefit it provides. Garlic is typically available as a liquid supplement to be added to dry or frozen foods, though some frozen foods such as brine shrimp may already contain it. Garlic is generally added for two reasons: first, to enhance the flavor of food and entice finicky feeders to eat; and second, to boost the immune system of fish. Some even use it as a treatment for ich.

While there is much anecdotal information, the scientific evidence supporting the claims around garlic’s benefit is mostly focused on the chemical allicin, which has demonstrated parasite-killing properties. However, the same cannot be said for claims of garlic’s ability to enhance the immune system in fish. These claims have not been supported by scientific evidence. There is also concern that long-term use can cause liver damage to fish.

FEEDING

Feeding your fish the correct foods in the right way is essential for their health. Varying the food offered at each feeding is nutritionally beneficial and also helps keep fish interested. In captivity, a single daily feed is unlikely to be detrimental, but feeding in the morning and evening more closely resembles natural feeding patterns. For some species, such as anthias, multiple daily feeds are necessary. Feed when the tank is lit and at least 30 minutes before lights off to prevent food from being left uneaten as fish retreat for the night. I would suggest providing a flake or pellet food for one meal and frozen food for the other. Auto-feeders may be an option but can only dispense dry foods, which aren’t always suitable for fussy eaters. Avoid the temptation to drop frozen food directly into the tank, and always defrost and rinse before feeding.

Feed sparingly, as uneaten food generates unwanted nutrients and overfeeding increases fish waste. Not all fish are voracious feeders, so ensure all are able to get their share. While you want food to circulate throughout the tank to reach all the creatures that should be fed, be conscious of the need to remove as much uneaten food

as possible. Turning off the return pump will keep uneaten food in the display, which may be a good strategy to provide for less aggressive feeders. If you choose to do this, keep in mind that uneaten food is easier to remove from a filter sock in the sump than from deep in the display. Many of the latest wavemakers provide a timed feed function to stop or reduce flow when feeding, which may be useful if you wish to avoid spreading food all over the tank. When away on vacation (2 or more days), use an auto-feeder or arrange for someone to feed your fish. Providing them with prepared packets or containers of food for each feeding can be helpful.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Today’s foods make it very easy to ensure the nutritional needs of all your fish are met. However, it’s important not to become complacent about feeding regimens and to offer a diverse selection of flake, pellet, frozen, and live foods whenever possible. In choosing the correct types to offer, always consider a fish’s natural diet and foraging behavior. While flake food is a good general choice, it may not be ideal for some species.

A balanced and nutritional diet is essential for happy, healthy fish, prolonging their lifespan in captivity. It will also help build a strong immune system, enabling fish to fend off infections or recover more quickly if they do become afflicted. By understanding and catering to all your fish’s feeding and dietary needs, you will be rewarded with the thriving, vibrant community of fish that every aquarist strives for. R

Oly’s Reef: Diversity on Display

OLIVIER SCHAAD

Ibegan my aquarium hobby when I was just 10 years old. Some of my family members have asthma, so we couldn’t keep any animals with hair or fur. My mother encouraged us to develop a sense of responsibility for animals, which led her to get a freshwater tank for the family. Each family member took care of their own species of fish. Over time, we successfully bred many freshwater species, eventually accumulating 10 tanks in the cellar.

I started my first reef tank at the age of 14, after reading every available book on the subject (the internet wasn’t a source for aquarium information yet). During my high school years, with chemistry and biology as my major subjects of interest, I became responsible for the school’s reef tank. I spent hours discussing water parameters, light, flow, filtration, and more with biology and chemistry teachers, the local aquarium store manager, and other

successful reefkeepers. My knowledge continued to grow, and by the age of 21, I was maintaining three mixed-reef tanks, one LPS (large-polyp stony) coral tank, and a seahorse tank with live rock, sponges, and macroalgae.

I took a 2-year break from the hobby at the age of 25 due to moving, changing jobs, and traveling. However, I soon realized that I missed the hobby I loved and the challenges reefkeeping presents. Traveling was, and is, a major part of my life, so I searched for a reef system that would allow me to be away for weeks at a time without needing to explain complicated maintenance to a tank-sitter. After trying various supplement systems, I found success with Fauna Marin products. The guidance from their CEO, Claude Schuhmacher, and their how-to-use manuals significantly improved my tank. I continue to be satisfied with their products and recommendations a decade later.

SYSTEM

The display measures 70" long, 24" wide, and 20" tall, and is built from low-iron glass. The sump contains a Skimz ZAR 127 zeolite reactor, an Aqua Medic Multireactor L with activated carbon, and a Royal Exclusiv Bubble King Double Cone 200 skimmer with an external Red Dragon 3 Speedy pump.

Lighting consists of a T5/LED hybrid fixture with eight 80-watt T5 bulbs and four 75-watt LED fixtures. The lighting is tuned to appear mostly white, as there are four white and four blue bulbs. The blue/violet LEDs run at only 30 percent for some color pop. There is a 1.5-hour ramp with only blue/violet LEDs in the evening.

Water flow is provided by two Maxspect Gyre 350 pumps, which alternate in 20-second intervals from 100 percent to 0 percent. This creates a turbulent wave-like flow that moves from one side of the tank to the other and travels through the scape from top to bottom.

WATER PARAMETERS

Temperature: 77° F

Salinity: 35 ppt

pH: 7.8–8.3

Nitrate: 1–3 ppm

Alkalinity: 6.8–7.3 dKH

Calcium: 420–440 ppm

Magnesium: 1,350 ppm

Phosphate: 0.04–0.08 ppm

SUPPLEMENTS

The system is supplemented using the Fauna Marin Balling Light system, FM Zeo Light, and FM Bacto Energy (as a carbon source). I also dose a small amount of FM Min S and Coral Vitality to support coral color, growth, and general health. I perform Fauna Marin ICP tests monthly, and trace elements are adjusted automatically with the Balling Light system. My tank has an elevated need for zinc and fluorides, which are calculated by the online FM element calculator and dosed directly into the alkalinity and calcium canisters to maintain the desired levels.

MAINTENANCE

Weekly maintenance includes an 18-gallon water change (reverseosmosis water mixed with Fauna Marin Professional Sea Salt) and glass cleaning. During the water change, I clean the sump and siphon the sandbed to remove unwanted debris.

FISH

• Ocellaris Clownfish ( Amphiprion ocellaris)

• Yellow Tang ( Zebrasoma flavescens)

• Naso Tang (Naso elegans)

• Two-spot Anthias (Pseudanthias bimaculatus)

• Blue-green Chromis (Chromis viridis)

• Six-line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)

• Threadfin Cardinalfish ( Zoramia leptacantha)

• Yellow Coris Wrasse (Helichoeres chrysus)

• Hector's Goby (Koumansetta hectori )

• Bristle-tail Filefish ( Acreichthys tomentosus)

CORALS

• Acropora spp.

• Montipora spp.

• Anacropora spp.

• Seriatopora spp.

• Stylophora spp.

• Pocillopora spp.

• Catalaphyllia jardinei

• Pavona maldivensis

• Duncanopsammia axifuga

• Euphyllia glabrescens

• Acanthastrea spp.

• Alveopora spp.

• Discosoma spp.

• Fiji Leather

OTHER INVERTEBRATES

• Maxima Clam (Tridacna maxima)

• Crocea Clam (Tridacna crocea)

• sand-sifting starfish ( Archaster angulatus)

• sea biscuit (Clypeaster sp.)

• star fish (Nardoa galatheae)

• Porcelain Crab (Neopetrolisthes maculatus)

• various shrimp species

• various snail species

• Christmas Tree Worms

The fish are fed four times a day by an automatic feeder filled with a mix of high-quality dry food pellets from Fauna Marin. In the evening, they receive Fauna Marin Green Seaweed flakes, as well as frozen Mysis and fish eggs from Ocean Nutrition. I chose to use Fauna Marin’s fish food based on their extensive research on high-quality fish feeds and the impact of fish food ingredients on reef tanks. The appropriate ratios of fatty acids and carotenes in the food help the fish maintain their color and health. In my opinion, the importance of this balance is often underestimated. There is also a significant relationship between long-term reef-tank health and nutrient control. This begins with sourcing high-protein fish food made with the best possible ingredients.

Over the last few years, I joined social media platforms like Instagram primarily to help other reefers improve their knowledge of reef tank biology and chemistry. There seems to be a significant need for ICP test result interpretation, and in my opinion, a vast amount of misinformation and confusion exists in online forums and discussion groups. I truly enjoy sharing my daily experiences and learning from experts. I can’t imagine a more fascinating, complex, and exciting hobby than reefing, where there’s always more to discover and new challenges to tackle. R

Maximum Length: ~4 inches (10 cm)

Range: Western Pacific – Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands, Samoa, Micronesia, and the northern Great Barrier Reef, Australia. Also expected, but unconfirmed, to occur in Tonga.

The Golden Angelfish (Centropyge aurantia)

The Golden Angelfish is a cryptic species native to the western Pacific Ocean. Individuals of this species spend most of their time in the crevices of coral reefs, hiding among thick corals, sponges, and rubble. While it is not a rare species, the Golden Angelfish’s cryptic nature means it is not often seen by scuba divers and snorkelers. Despite thorough searches and the certainty of the

species’ presence, even the scientists who published the original description of the species had significant difficulty finding specimens while surveying the coral reefs of American Samoa, from which the type specimens were collected. Centropyge aurantia can be found at depths ranging from 10 to 197 feet (3 to 60 meters). The type specimens collected from American Samoa were found at depths

of 118 to 128 feet (36 to 39 meters), and a survey from Pohnpei, Micronesia, recorded the species at depths of 36 to 66 feet (11 to 20 meters).

As the common name suggests, the Golden Angelfish displays a beautiful reddish-orange-yellow hue. The scientific name is appropriately derived from “aurum,” the Latin word for gold.

The IUCN Red List reports the population trend for C. aurantia to be stable and categorizes the species as Least Concern on account of its wide range, large overall population, lack of substantial habitat loss, and very limited collection for the aquarium trade. It also states that the species faces no significant threats and “collecting for the aquarium trade is not considered to be impacting the global population.”

In the aquarium, Golden Angelfish do best in a tank of at least 30 gallons, with rockwork aquascaped to provide ample nooks and crannies to closely mimic the fish’s preferred habitat in the wild. While giving cryptic fish more hiding places may seem somewhat counterintuitive, this technique can encourage timid fish to spend more time out in the open, as the availability of readily accessible refuge allows the fish to feel more comfortable and secure when venturing out into the open.

While it is possible to keep Golden Angelfish in a reef tank, the species does pose some risk to corals. Some aquarists report the Golden Angelfish to have a proclivity for nipping at both largepolyp (LPS) and small-polyp (SPS) stony corals. As is common with

other dwarf angelfishes of the genus Centropyge, this propensity to exhibit coral-nipping behavior varies greatly between individuals of the species.

It is best to offer Golden Angelfish a variety of foods. Commercially available frozen foods formulated for marine omnivores that combine ingredients such as Mysis shrimp, fish, squid, and marine algae make a good choice. There are even a few frozen food manufacturers that market products formulated specifically for angelfish. Though it may take some time, Golden Angelfish can often be weaned onto dry foods such as flakes or pellets. Fish food technology has advanced substantially in the last decade. There are now multiple high-quality products that incorporate highly palatable ingredients, such as certain fish oils, specifically added to induce a strong feeding response in picky eaters.

Golden Angelfish have a reputation for being a finicky species that has difficulty acclimating to the aquarium. The problems with this species likely stem from substandard collection and handling practices in early stages of the supply chain. I generally encourage aquarists to support the livelihoods of fishers who are stewards of the coral reefs on which they work by choosing to purchase wild fish over captive-bred fish. Buying net-caught wild fish provides financial incentive for protecting coral reef habitats in places where environmentally and economically sustainable employment can be hard to come by. However, the habits of the Golden Angelfish may make sustainable collection difficult. Therefore, C. aurantia is a prime candidate for aquaculture to improve environmental sustainability of the aquarium trade and to promote the health and longevity of the

species in the aquarium hobby. At least one facility in Indonesia is currently culturing Golden Angelfish for the aquarium trade.

Golden Angelfish are somewhat secretive, but they are beautiful and rather uncommon in the hobby. Given the proper sourcing, conditioning, setup, and care, C. aurantia is an attractive and unique addition to the aquarium. R

References:

Coleman et al. (2018). Shifting reef fish assemblages along a depth gradient in Pohnpei, Micronesia. PeerJ, 6, e4650. https://peerj.com/ articles/4650/

Froese and Pauly (2000). Centropyge aurantia summary page. FishBase Retrieved January 26, 2023, from https://fishbase.se/summary/ Centropyge-aurantia.html

Michael (2004). Angelfishes and Butterflyfishes (pp. 227-229). Microcosm Limited.

Pyle and Myers (2010). Centropyge aurantia. The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species in 2009. https://iucnredlist.org/species/165893/6159207

Randall and Wass (1974). Two new pomacanthid fishes of the genus Centropyge from Oceania. Japanese Journal of Ichthyology, 21(3), 137144.

Randall et al. (2003). Checklist of the shore and epipelagic fishes of Tonga. Atoll Research Bulletin, 502, 1-37.

.25-GALLON REEF

I’ve seen 1-gallon reef tanks and maybe even a few half-gallon reefs, but I wanted to push mini reefing to the extreme. I wanted a system that would fit on a desk, nightstand, or shelf without getting in the way. And I didn’t want to stop there. I wanted it to be sealed, silent, and fully stocked. No top-offs, no evaporation, and no air or water pump. It also had to support a diversity of livestock. I wanted it to keep itself relatively clean and, most importantly, actually look like a living reef. So here we are, a .25-gallon reef.

THE THEORY

Just like any other plant, macroalgae produce oxygen during the day and consume oxygen at night through respiration. My theory was that the oxygen production would be enough on its own to support a reef of this size. With longer daylight hours and a shorter night, the oxygen should never deplete, the macroalgae should

BRENDAN ROSS

grow, and the livestock should be able to breathe. Chaetomorpha seemed like the perfect choice, with a large surface area to produce oxygen and a tolerance for a wide range of conditions.

CYCLING

This step was really important with such a small-volume system. The tank sat for a bit over a month with sand, rock, and water. Adding a small amount of food helped kickstart the cycle. After water tests confirmed that the system was ready, the chaeto was added, and it sat for another month as I watched it grow. At that point, it was time to begin stocking the tank.

LIVESTOCK

I started to stock the reef slowly. One Blue-leg Hermit, no issues. He was happy, explored the entire tank, and ate anything he

could find. I added a second Blue-leg Hermit and then an Astraea snail, still no issues. Oxygen wasn’t a problem, but detritus was building up in the crevices where the crabs couldn’t reach. I added a couple of small bristle worms to handle it. The tank was staying clean, the cleanup crew never struggled for oxygen, and you could see the bubbles forming on the chaeto as oxygen was being produced faster than it was being consumed.

The idea was working. A sealed system with no air or water pump was supporting a simple crew of inverts. But could it support more?

The next step was to add corals. Without flow, I knew I’d have to be careful with what I chose. I added six or seven Parazoanthus polyps, which began opening within 24 hours. Then I added a Ricordea yuma mushroom, hoping it wouldn’t mind the lack of flow. It happily opened up within hours.

Over time, the Parazoanthus grew new polyps until it had tripled in size. The Ricordea, amazingly, split and left behind four new babies that are half the size of a dime already.

The chaeto continued to keep up with oxygen demand. The hermits grew larger and moved into new shells, the snail kept the glass clean, and the bristle worms began reproducing, perhaps a bit too quickly.

After some time, the sandbed was becoming an issue. Without flow, detritus built up in the sand, and there was nothing to stir it. I added a Nassarius snail that seemed perfect for the job. I rarely see it other than when I feed, but the Nassarius has been stirring the sand for over a month.

With this level of success achieved, I wanted to try a new coral, something different from the soft corals in the tank. I added a Montipora, and after 2 weeks, it didn’t seem to be having any issues.

Surprisingly, this small tank was supporting a large population of copepods, a few amphipods, and even a spaghetti worm. I was able to turn the idea of a complete miniature ecosystem into reality.

LATEST ADDITION

Since everything was going so well, I wanted to try adding an anemone, even though I knew it was going to be a challenge. I knew just any old anemone wouldn’t work for this tiny system. No Bubble Tip, Sebae, Condylactis, or even mini carpet anemone would be viable, so I looked around for options. When I found the Borneman Anemone, I knew it would be my best choice.

I put the smallest Borneman Anemone I could find in the tank and within minutes, it opened up. For the next few days, it roamed the available space trying to find a good place to settle.

It finally found its spot and has been there for over 2 months. With relatively high oxygen requirements, I thought an anemone would push the tank too far, but that doesn’t seem to be the case.

EQUIPMENT

There isn’t much equipment to talk about other than the tank and light. There are no water or air pumps, and I’m using a small heating pad below the tank to maintain temperature.

I tried a couple of small off-theshelf lights on this system, but none of them did quite what I wanted. This led me to plan and build a custom solution. It was designed to cover the entire top of the cube without any overhang. It uses an RGB LED panel that allows me to adjust the lighting intensity and color. I added Wi-Fi controls so I can program light schedules and choose the perfect color.

CONCLUSION

What started as the seemingly crazy idea to have a reef in .25 gallons of water is now a full-fledged ecosystem complete with a cleanup crew, corals, an anemone, and more. Testing this concept would have been impossible without the support and generosity of Joe at Ocean Rift Aquatics in Canton, Ohio. Nearly a year

after the first test, everything inside is thriving. With this project, I gained a new appreciation for these amazing marine ecosystems. And I hope that by sharing this, I’ve inspired other hobbyists to try something new and unique with their next setup. You can find more information about the build process and the light design at ReallySmallReefs.com. R

PRODUCT REVIEW: The IceCap ATO EZ

JIM ADELBERG

ATOs (auto top-offs) are some of the most underappreciated yet valuable pieces of equipment in our hobby. Maintaining stable salinity eliminates a whole array of chemical and biochemical variations that can make your road to reefing success rockier than it needs to be. As an example of the effects of changing salinities on chemical processes, consider this: higher-salinity water carries less dissolved oxygen. Dissolved oxygen in turn impacts everything from your biological filter’s efficacy to your coral’s ability to process food. So while there is some variation in salinity on most wild reefs, and considerable variation on some, minimizing this variable in a home reef removes one major element of uncertainty that can make these dynamic and complicated environments challenging to manage.

Of more pragmatic concern is the issue of stable water levels in our systems. A drop of only a few inches in a sump’s water level can cause a significant reduction in return flow to the display. And it’s both expensive and dangerous to allow pumps to run dry.

ATOs are basically available in three technological flavors. First is a simple gravity-fed ATO. This method encompasses a range of devices, from simple sealed and inverted reservoirs that release top-off water whenever the water level below drops and exposes their delivery port, all the way to complicated float-valve-driven systems. At the opposite end of the complexity spectrum are fully automated computerized systems that actually analyze the specific gravity of the system and add top-off water to reach a desired target salinity. The third type of ATO is the one that dominates the hobby and uses an electronic sensor to monitor the water level. Once the level drops, the ATO pumps top-off water into the system until the sensor is once again submerged.

All ATOs require maintenance beyond just refilling the ATO reservoir. Sensors and float valves need regular cleaning, and pumps and feed lines need occasional maintenance. Luckily, the maintenance is minimal (partially due to the cleanliness of top-off water), and in exchange, these devices offer peace of mind and make our systems much easier to maintain.

I recently was looking for a new ATO system for a tank I was setting up and saw an ad for the IceCap ATO EZ. I reached out to them to send me one to test and review so I could let our readers know what I thought.

My requirements were fairly straightforward, and I think we should expect all these features from ATO manufacturers, even on moderately priced ATOs like this one (MSRP $89.99).

• 3-level sensor or multiple sensors (low level, running level, high level)

• Timed auto shutoff (after X minutes, the pump will stop pumping, regardless of the sensor input)

• Energy efficient pump (unless you’re pumping against a large head pressure, ATO pumps can be quite modest)

• High and low sump level alarms (visible or audible)

Additionally, I wanted it to be quiet, and I was looking for the smallest unit I could get. After unboxing and testing IceCap’s ATO EZ, it checked all the boxes. I was pleased that they used a 5-watt pump that is nearly silent. I also liked that the three sensors were squeezed onto a single magnetic mount. There are LEDs that indicate low, running, and high sump fill levels. And last, but certainly not least, this is one of the smallest ATO systems I’ve come across; the sensor is small, the pump is tiny (though it delivers 50 gph and can pump to a 6’ height), the controller is miniscule, and the whole setup basically disappears when in use.

I can’t and won’t tell you which ATO will best meet your needs. Different systems lend themselves to different solutions. I would recommend this ATO for displays under 150 gallons of total system volume. If you’re hunting for the same feature list I was, from a reputable manufacturer, this device fits the bill. R