Best of 2019

XAD GRAND PRE IN FOLDER THE TASTE OF

Nova Scotia’s Terroir Fresh, vibrant and versatile with signature aromas and notes of citrus.

a true expression of our coastal terroir

GRANDPREWINES.COM

QU

BEST OF 2019 12 FOOTPRINT

E

MICHELLE BOUFFARD

Are wineries doing everything they can to reduce their carbon footprint?

NCH 18

SECONDS, ANYONE?

MICHAEL APSTEIN

Bordeaux’s second wines have a lot to say.

COLUMNS

9 | BEING CONSCIOUS MICHAELA MORRIS

6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

Is wine part of the problem or part of the solution?

How forward-thinking craft cocktail bars do oat milk.

15 | TWO ISLANDS GURVINDER BHATIA

8 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

The story of Pantelleria and Feudo Montoni is more than just soil deep.

A list of this year’s most noteworthy Canadian breweries.

22 | GARNACH’? ... NATCH! KONRAD EJBICH

27 | BUYING GUIDE

Does anyone need a second reason to drink Garnacha? The first reason is obvious. It tastes great.

The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.

24 | SIX MILES COMING BACK

34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER Wiesbaden... It was a wine lover’s dream.

TOD STEWART Taking the drambulance through Scotland’s Islay.

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BEST OF 2019 3

LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR

WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR

Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR

Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS

Tony Aspler, Christine Sismondo, Robin LeBlanc CONTRIBUTORS

Michaela Morris, Michelle Bouffard, Konrad Ejbich, Michael Apstein COVER PHOTO BY

BRITISH COLUMBIAN WINE HAS EVOLVED REMARKABLY OVER THE PAST 30 YEARS, AND BC IS NOW ONE OF THE FINEST AND (WITHOUT QUESTION) MOST BEAUTIFUL WINE REGIONS IN THE WORLD. Wine from top producers

— Tantalus, Quails’ Gate, Le Vieux Pin, Painted Rock, Orofino, Little Farm, et al. — can stand with the best in the world; they continue to improve and deservedly receive international accolades and global attention. However, I am concerned that the overall quality of wines from other BC producers has plateaued (perhaps even regressed) lately — a concern reinforced by my recent judging gig in the region. Too many appear to be riding the coattails of the province’s leaders. I tasted too many wines that were poorly made, lacked brand definition or mimicked the excessively oaked Aussie and California wines of the 1990s, despite many producers touting terroir and a sense of place. In the context of the advanced level of maturity of the BC wine industry, developed over the past three decades, these findings are indefensible. Even more concerning, their producers have brainwashed themselves into believing that good sales imply superior quality. News flash: popularity does not always mean quality. The BC wine industry receives a lot of support from local consumers and industry, regardless of the level of wine quality. There is a downside to such blind support. Wine writers who gratuitously and irresponsibly bestow ratings of perfection do little to validate the industry. A little tough love from the wine trade, wine writers and consumers would help to get the region back on track. Perhaps the wine industry needs to redefine how it measures success. The BC wine industry is too young to be comfortable with producing mediocrity. All local producers should strive for quality to help the province evolve into one of the finest wine-growing regions in the world.

4 BEST OF 2019

Elvis Deane

TASTERS

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Elvis Deane COPY DESK

Holland Gidney, Ellie Lord

CREATIVE BY PARIS ASSOCIATES PRODUCTION

WebFree, Designs In Response PHOTOGRAPHY

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XAD 13TH STREET SPARKLING IN FOLDER

LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

GOT OAT MILK? More and more forward-thinking craft cocktail bars do. Oat milk currently seems to be winning the contest for best alt-milk and cocktail bartenders are enthusiastic about it. They use it not only in cold weather classics, like eggnogs and Tom & Jerry punches, but also in some signature cocktails. Why oats? For quite a few excellent reasons, according to Robin Goodfellow, owner of Toronto’s Bar Ravel and Pretty Ugly, where oat milk is the sole alt-milk on offer for both barista drinks and cocktails. “Not everyone can have a plethora of alternative milks because once open they start to go bad,” explains Goodfellow. “Most bars can only choose one, so it needs to be the easiest and most allergy friendly. Oat milk turned out to be a great choice. Most people ask for it and we rarely get requests for soy or almond anymore. Oat milk went from zero to a hundred in no time. It’s crazy.” Oat milk is also vegan friendly and generally considered one of the most sustainable options for Canadians: oats thrive in cold weather. On the other hand, almonds are usually imported from California, where the crop is controversial as it puts strain on the region’s already taxed water resources. Cashews come from even further away, generally southeast Asia. Oat milk is highly affordable and works nearly perfectly in place of milk in coffees and cocktails. “I think it works identically to milk,” Goodfellow says. “It doesn’t impart a lot of flavour, which is important because cocktails or coffees aren’t milk drinks as such. It hits all the marks: it works in hot and cold drinks, it’s sustainable, it’s decent quality and has a good shelf life. And it’s not cow’s milk, which is a plus in my opinion.” 6 BEST OF 2019

It is even viscous and rich enough to stand in for a cream in a lot of drinks, although it might need a little steaming, whisking, or running through an iSi whipper to create a frothy top for a cocktail or a cappuccino. Goodfellow thinks it only falls short when it comes to making an old school Irish coffee — the kind with the thick cream spooned on top. Well, you can’t have everything. But you can have a glass of Hall and Oat Milk, a cocktail created at Pretty Ugly that Robin Goodfellow has shared with us.

HALL AND OAT MILK

45 30 30 15 5

ml Bonal Gentiane Quina Aperitif* ml Bacardi Ocho ml oat milk ml birch honey ml Fernet-Branca

Shake all ingredients in an ice-filled cocktail shaker for 45 seconds. Strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. * Bonal is a bitter aperitif made from gentian. It can be hard to

track down but easily substituted by Suze and Liqueur de Gentiane des Pères Chartreux. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES

XAD 13TH STREET GAMAY IN FOLDER

LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

SIMPLY THE BEST Another fantastic year of good beer has come to a close. As this is the BEST OF 2019 issue, I would be remiss not to include some of this wonderful year’s most noteworthy Canadian breweries.

CLIFFORD BREWING CO., HAMILTON, ON

This Ontario brewery managed to snag the Best Brewery Award at the Canadian Brewing Awards this year. Its barrel-aged porter is the stuff of legend! THE DANDY BREWING COMPANY, CALGARY, AB

This much-loved Calgary brewery recently put on its first annual Dandyfest. The festival celebrated the brewery’s five years in business and included beers from other breweries like Blind Enthusiasm, Twin Sails, Bellwoods, Nokomis Ales and Dieu du Ciel. HOUSE OF FUNK BREWING, NORTH VANCOUVER, BC

This new brewery brought the funk to North Vancouver with its wonderful tasting room and café. So far, the brewery has been delivering on its promise of beers that put a heavy emphasis on wood, brettanomyces, different yeast strains, and all things good and funky. LANDWASH BREWERY HEAD

BLACK LAB BREWING, TORONTO, ON

BREWER CHRISTINA COADY

A unique explicitly dog-friendly brewery (complete with its mascot, Snoopy), Black Lab recently won the Golden Tap Awards for Best New Brewery in Ontario. Snoopy’s Legacy, the brewery’s barrel-aged table saison with black cherries, won Favourite New Beer in Ontario.

To make for an even ten, I must mention two people who have helped pave the way for a better and brighter craft beer world in 2020.

LANDWASH BREWERY, MOUNT PEARL, NL

REN NAVARRO, BEER. DIVERSITY.

Now celebrating its first year in business, Landwash Brewery has quickly established itself as a Newfoundland beer hub, with incredible beers made by head brewer Christina Coady. DISTRICT BREWING CO., REGINA, SK

District’s ethos seems to be making simple beers really, really well. The brewery’s West Coast Wheat Lager, generously hopped with Sorachi Ace, is well balanced and incredibly refreshing. LITTLE BEASTS BREWING CO., WHITBY, ON

With head brewer Erin Broadfoot at the wheel, this small brewery has made some big waves with its award-winning beers that range from table saisons and sours to pale ales and stouts. BRASSERIE DU BAS-CANADA, GATINEAU, QC

The very American hop-focused beers at this Gatineau brewery are unquestionably some of the most sought-after in the province. 8 BEST OF 2019

Ren Navarro has had a busy year. The owner of the award-winning consulting company Beer. Diversity. hosted speaking engagements, worked on beer collaborations with breweries, and attended panels for internationally renowned beer events, like the Craft Brewers Conference in Denver, all in the name of supporting a more diverse beer scene. DR. J. JACKSON-BECKHAM, CRAFT BEER FOR ALL

Beer circles on Twitter can be fraught with negativity, frustration and zero respite. But this year we saw a change. When Chicago beer writer Chalonda White from Afro.Beer.Chick. received a hate-filled, racist email, Dr. J. Jackson-Beckham, the Diversity Ambassador for the Brewers Association in America, created the #IAmCraftBeer hashtag. His instructions were simple: post a selfie and tell everyone about yourself. The ensuing wave of positive posts highlighted that the craft beer world is beautiful and filled with many people that want to share their love of good beer. ×

by Michaela Morris

BEING

CONSCIOUS The current state of the world is enough to drive you to drink. But before you reach for a bottle, you might want to give your choice some consideration beyond price, label or point score. Is that wine part of the problem or part of the solution? While saving the world with a glass of wine is debatable, you can support producers who are aligned with your code of ethics and trying to make changes for the better.

Environmental anxiety looms larger than ever. For a long time, organic has been perceived as the “green” choice — healthier for the planet as well as people. But organic is only one piece of the puzzle. Fundamentally, it prohibits synthetic fungicides, pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers in the vineyard as well as genetically modified organisms. “Organic is, in my mind, largely a decalogue of do’s and don’ts, and focuses on chemical usage,” explains Ted Casteel, co-owner and vineyard manager at Bethel Heights Vineyard in Oregon.

For some producers, organic viticulture is just a point of departure. Lesser-known biodynamic viticulture starts with the same guiding principles but the goal is to create a self-sustaining ecosystem. While biodynamic practices such as burying cow horns filled with manure in the soil and spraying special preparations in accordance with the moon cycle may seem esoteric, the holistic approach takes the entire farm into consideration not just the health of the soil. Demeter and Biodyvin are the two official certifications for biodynamic wines. The tenets of organic farming feed into other certifications like Salmon-Safe in the Pacific Northwest. In this instance, the emphasis is on the impact farming has on surrounding fish habitat. It is particularly concerned with pesticides that can have a negative impact on aquatic life and works to protect water quality and manage runoff. Crucially, organic agriculture is not a panacea for all environmental threats. Farming organically doesn’t govern water management or waste management. Nor does it measure the size of a winery’s carbon footprint — surely a fundamental factor of a wine’s ethicality — and, in fact, can increase it (See Michelle Bouffard’s article on page 12). Organic is not always considered the best solution in a given area. Attention has therefore shifted to sustainability, with organic practices being part of that — BEST OF 2019 9

SUMMERHILL CIPES BRUT NV, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($27)

Besides being Demeter certified for grape growing and producing certified organic wine, Summerhill has also been awarded gold for green tourism. A blend of Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, this traditional method sparkler is fresh, mouth cleansing and replete with crisp orchard fruit. REYNEKE CHENIN BLANC 2016, STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA ($30)

Crafted from biodynamically farmed grapes, this single-vineyard Chenin Blanc is stunning. Stony, minerally and tight, it offers great energy and power with a lovely tactile texture. Hints of orange and honey linger on the finish. EMILIANA COYAM 2015, COLCHAGUA VALLEY, CHILE ($30)

Emiliana has been organic for over 20 years, carbon neutral since 2008 and is considered a pioneer of biodynamics in Chile. The wine is also certified vegan. Syrah with a healthy dose of Carménère and Cab along with a whole host of other red grapes. Exuberant and full, it is laden with dark black fruit and complemented by intriguing floral and cedar undertones. AVIGNONESI VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO DOCG 2015, ITALY ($45)

Certified vegan and organic wine. The property is also in conversion to biodynamic viticulture based on owner Virginie Saverys’s belief in homeopathic solutions and a desire to safeguard the health of her workers. A polished and sophisticated Sangiovese with dense wild-forest berries, tobacco and tea. QUERCIABELLA CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG 2015, ITALY ($40)

Made from biodynamically grown grapes without any animal products or by-products, this vegan-certified Chianti Classico is subtly toasty with ripe red cherry, evocative Mediterranean herbs and cinnamon carried by fine powdery tannins. CONO SUR ORGANIC PINOT NOIR 2018, CHILE ($17)

Through economies of scale, this large producer is able to produce affordable, good-value organic wines while reducing energy use and neutralizing its greenhouse gas emissions. The Pinot Noir is juicy and straightforward with bright strawberry fruit. It is also a Certified Sustainable Wine of Chile. BETHEL HEIGHTS VINEYARD ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2016, EOLA-AMITY HILLS, OREGON ($45)

Owner Ted Casteel is a founding member of LIVE, which certifies sustainability in the vineyard and winery. The wines are Salmon-Safe with no herbicides since 2009 and solar panels provide 60 percent of the winery’s energy needs. A gorgeous Pinot Noir — the epitome of elegance. Silky smooth with black cherry and heady truffle nuances. 10 BEST OF 2019

or not. Justin Seidenfeld is director of winemaking at Rodney Strong Vineyards, Sonoma County’s first carbon-neutral winery. He describes the company’s approach as having the lowest impact possible. “If we can dry farm and go organic, we do. But if necessary, we will use systemic fungicide,” he states. Sustainability is a broad word, open to interpretation and susceptible to greenwashing. Ideally, it considers the bigger picture and the long-term viability of practices. While it may permit chemicals, it espouses rational use and encourages alternative methods to control pests, diseases and weeds. The International Organization for Standardization’s (ISO) 14001 and 14004 certifications give some definition and parameters to sustainability with the overall aim of reducing resource use. There are numerous other sustainable certifications that range from country-wide, like Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand, to the Pacific Northwest’s LIVE, which stands for Low Input Viticulture and Enology. A GROWING RESPONSE TO THE GLOBAL CLIMATE CRISIS IS PEOPLE ADOPTING A VEGAN DIET. According to Global-

Data, there was a 600 percent increase in veganism in the US between 2014 to 2017. It may come as a surprise that animal ingredients or by-products have anything to do with winemaking but indeed egg whites, milk, fish bladders and gelatin made from animal protein are all ingredients of various fining agents. Fining is an optional winemaking process that removes harsh tannins, undesired colours, off-flavours and any solids in suspension that may throw a haze. It is widely practised as we demand our wine to be clear and bright rather than cloudy. While fining agents precipitate out, there is no absolute guarantee that trace elements don’t remain. Therefore, vegan-friendly wines must either be fined with non-animal fining agents, such as bentonite (clay mined from volcanic ash), or not fined at all. While vegan certification like American-based BevVeg!, Canadian-based VegeCert and Europe’s V-label certify the winemaking process, they don’t regulate farming techniques. This means that animals and animal by-products may be used in the vineyard, such as animal manure to fertilize a vineyard. Carissa Kranz, CEO and founder of BevVeg! International would like to see a certification for soil as well. She says that “in order to affect change in the world, we need to meet the world where the world is now.” In her words, “that means a practical solution to living with the smallest footprint possible on this planet, and patience with the evolution of that process.” Animal rights activist Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni at Querciabella in Chianti Classico takes matters into his own hands. Beyond vegan certification, he has developed a plant-based approach to biodynamics that eschews any animal products — both in the vineyard and in the cellar. The other — not insignificant — element of ethical wine is the human factor. The wine industry isn’t immune to inequalities and injustices, which was most palpably demonstrated in South Africa under apartheid. Today, South Africa is the largest producer of Fairtrade wine, which is designed to protect workers’ rights and help farmers get a fair price for their crops. In 2012, South Africa’s Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association launched its ethical seal to address unfair labour practices that continue to persist.

TED CASTEEL AND HIS NEPHEW BEN, WINEMAKER AT BETHEL HEIGHTS

Ultimately, it is the producers that go above and beyond the call of duty that stand out. With a Master’s in environmental ethics, Johan Reyneke in Stellenbosch has been called the “intentional farmer.” His Cornerstone project funds homeownership for his workers (rather than just providing free housing) and education for their children. Similarly, at the Catena Zapata winery in Argentina, employees are offered language and various skill-building classes, giving them the opportunity to advance in their careers. Trying to rate and certify ethics is not a straightforward task. However, the non-profit B Lab organization is making an attempt through its B Corp Certification. The “B” is short for “beneficial” and its foundation is “people using business as a force for good.” It boasts accreditation across diverse industries around the global and Certified B Corps include Stumptown Coffee Roasters, outdoor apparel company Patagonia, and publicly traded Brazilian cosmetics firm Natura. Okanagan’s Summerhill Winery was the first winery in Canada to apply for and achieve B Corp Certification. CEO Ezra Cipes calls the standards “rigorous.” Points are awarded in categories broken down into business governance, environment, employees, community and customers. It looks at everything from the hiring process, wages and diversity in the workplace to charitable giving, waste management systems and transparency throughout the entire supply chain. Out of a total of 200, 80 points is the pass-

ing mark. Summerhill’s high score for environmental practices gained them 85 points. Most importantly, “it shows us where we can improve,” declares Cipes. “Through the assessment, you understand the rigour of what it takes to score points.” Think of it as the new 200-point scale — for ethicalness that is. Wading through all the various certifications is no easy task. On the one hand, they can serve to communicate a winery’s practices. However, it is important to look at who the certifying body is and what exactly it is certifying. Furthermore, a winery’s eco-friendly philosophy in a particular area may not necessarily inform all decisions. After visiting an organic vineyard in Basilicata, I was left with a slightly bitter taste in my mouth when the wine was served from one of heaviest bottles I have ever tried to lift. I could almost see the greenhouse gas emissions increasing before my very eyes. Just because a wine doesn’t brandish a particular certification, doesn’t mean that it is any less “ethical” than the next. For instance, Maison Marchand-Tawse in Burgundy is in the process of organic certification but won’t use logo. “We don’t want it to be a marketing tool,” says winemaker Thomas Dinel. Finally, certification, and whatever ethical practices are employed, doesn’t guarantee that the wine will be any good. Ultimately, we drink wine for pleasure so quality is non-negotiable. Thankfully, there are numerous ethically minded producers making great wine. It may mean spending a bit more but there is nothing morally wrong with drinking less but better. × BEST OF 2019 11

FOOTPRINT by Michelle Bouffard

We are told that if everyone on the entire planet takes every possible measure to reduce their carbon footprint NOW, we could manage to reduce the temperature increase to 2 degrees Celsius by 2050 instead of 3 degrees. But even 2 degrees is already too much. Glaciers are melting, and an upsurge in extreme temperatures is causing increased flooding incidences. Tornadoes, wildfires and drought are now common occurrences. 12 BEST OF 2019

One only needs to turn on the radio, watch TV or read the newspaper to learn about another second side effect of climate change. Activist Greta Thunberg is urging governments and the population to act. The to-do list is long and the situation is scarily overwhelming. But what if, step by step, you could look at your daily habits and, one gesture at the time, make a difference. Starting with the carbon footprint of your wine glass. There is a big trend among producers to cultivate vines according to organic and biodynamic principles. While it’s healthier for the body, it doesn’t say much about the carbon footprint of that winery. As a reminder, a carbon footprint is defined as a measure of the amount of carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere by a person, group or organization’s activities over a particular time period. Unfortunately, very few wine producers make this calculation throughout their entire line operation. “Organic and biodynamic viticulture is not enough; we have to reduce our carbon footprint,” says Miguel A. Torres, president of Familia Torres. He has so far invested more than 12 million Euros in research to find solutions for how a winery can reduce its carbon footprint. As a consumer, how do you know the carbon footprint associated with your bottle of wine? It’s not easy, simply because many wineries do not know either. But here are a few guidelines that can help make a difference.

AN ENVIRONMENTAL FOCUS

For wine lovers, digging up information is the first step. Wineries with established programs to reduce their impact on the environment usually communicate their values and mission on social media and on their websites. It requires some work on your part, but there could be worse subjects on which to do research! For instance, the Torres & Earth page on the Familia Torres website gives you some great examples of important measures a winery can adapt to reduce its carbon emissions. Renewable energy, energy efficiency, sustainable transportation, water management optimization, lighter bottles,

carbon sinks and waste management, adaptation, nature conservation and research are all categories one should look at. A serious producer will have numbers to match its actions and goals. Familia Torres has reduced its CO2 emissions per bottle by 27.6 percent between 2008 and 2018, and they are committed to reaching 30 percent by 2020. Initiatives like these are likely to grow in the years to come. Last March, two powerful wine families, the Familia Torres and the Jackson Family Wines, joined together to create the International Wineries for Climate Action. The goal is to gather a group of environmentally committed wineries working together to decarbonize the wine industry and mitigate their impact on climate change. They want to achieve an 80 percent reduction in total carbon emissions across the industry by 2045. Katie Jackson, vice-president of sustainability at Jackson Family Wines, says that many wineries have already come forward and shown interest. She hopes that, down the road, the group can have a logo that can be put on bottles to guide consumers. But, for now, the best way for them to communicate their actions is through social media and their website. They also educate distributors, retailers and sommeliers, who then share information with consumers. The Jackson Family began paying closer attention to its carbon emissions in 2008, starting with investments in energy efficiency. “We now are aligned with the IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) and we do the actions required to avoid the increase of 2 degrees Celsius,” Jackson shared. The company publishes regular reports online showing their progress.

LOOK OUT FOR CERTIFICATIONS

While the International Wineries for Climate Action has yet to develop a logo, the logos belonging to other associations promoting sustainability can already be seen on wine bottles. Each association has its own guidelines and philosophies, with websites to explain further the respective rules that must be followed to

get the certification. Some labels to look for include: LIVE from the Pacific Northwest; Sustainable Australia Winegrowing (SAW) from Australia; HEV (High Environmental Value) from France; Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing; and Sustainable Winemaking Ontario Certified. Another one to seek out is LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design), a rating system that is recognized as the international mark of excellence in green building. Okanagan-based producer Tantalus was the first Canadian winery to be LEED certified and Stratus Vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake also has the certification. In addition, wineries are creating their own protocols to communicate their dedication to the environment. In 2011, Rhône Valley producer Gabriel Meffre decided to commit to sustainable development and corporate social responsibility. As a result, in 2018, they were awarded Level 4 (Exemplary) of the AFNOR AFAQ ISO 26000 certification, the highest possible level. The winery subsequently created a sticker that reads “Sustainable Development Exemplary” for its bottles along with a brief explanation on the back label. It’s worth noting that all of these certifications cost money, so some producers may have sustainable practices but prefer not to go through the process of getting certified. Hence the importance of asking questions. The Canadian certification I am excited about, and which we are likely to see increasingly, is Carbonzero. As mentioned in its mission statement, the Carbonzero company is committed to providing the highest quality carbon offsets, sourced through the most stringent verification practices, based on a principle of transparency and an open audit trail. Steven Campbell, owner of the import company Lifford Wine & Spirits Inc, originally encouraged the Italian winery Santa Margherita to get Carbonzero certification for its Pinot Grigio. A high volume of this white wine is exported to the Canadian market every year. Santa Margherita’s Pinot Grigio became certified in 2014. Greenhouse gas emissions (GHG) from the production and distribution of this wine is now offset BEST OF 2019 13

by investments in high-quality Canadian carbon-offset projects. By doing so, Santa Margherita has, over the last six years, offset the amount of GHG emissions equivalent to what is trapped by approximately 15,000 acres of forest in one year. Even though Campbell is no longer the winery’s importer, he is still very dedicated to sustainability. His company is itself Carbonzero certified and, furthermore, he recently launched the Campbell Kind Wine, his own Carbonzero-branded wine line. In this project, he is working with more than eight different respected producers from six different countries, including Telmo Rodríguez in Spain, Bruce Jack in South Africa and Steve Smith MW in New Zealand. He tracks the GHG emissions of packaging and transportation, and offsets them with Carbonzero. Last October, Campbell received an honorary Doctor of Laws degree from York University for his commitment to sustainability.

PACKAGING: CHANGE YOUR MINDSET

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I heard multiple times from experts that packaging alone can be responsible for up to 40 percent of the carbon footprint of a bottle of wine. Weight matters! Don’t think that a wine is of a better quality because the bottle is taller and or heavier. It’s just marketing. Thankfully, more wineries are making efforts to reduce the weight of their wine containers. Gabriel Meffre went through the arduous process of developing a lightweight bottle that weighs just 410 grams while its original ones were 570 grams. By using 2.5 million lightweight bottles, the winery saves 250 tons of glass every year, which represents 178 tons of C02, the equivalent of 14,000 kilometres in a car, 1.8 tonnes of paper or 20 return flights between London and Paris. Distributors, including Canadian liquor boards, are also on board. The LCBO was an international leader in reducing beverage alcohol waste. Through their initiative of requiring a standard 420-gram bottle for wines priced under $16, they reduced an annual waste of six million kilograms in GHG emissions by 20 percent. SAQ is also turning green. Their goal is to have all regular

products priced under $16 sold in 420gram or lighter bottles by spring 2020. Tetra Pak and boxed wines are among other alternative containers with a smaller carbon footprint. This is why the SAQ has encouraged those in 2017 and 2018, with a resulting increase of 33 percent in their boxed wine offerings. Wine sold in kegs is another exciting growing trend good for the environment. In British Columbia, Chris Coletta, who owns the Okanagan Crush Pad Winery, sells four different brands in 19.5-litre kegs to 15 to 20 restaurants. The environment was the driving decision, she says. It makes a lot of sense for a sommelier to celebrate this packaging, especially for local wine with a high turnover. When consumers support and request something, sommeliers and producers listen. So, use your buying power! While restaurants like Tap & Barrel in Vancouver propose an impressive selection of local wine on tap, we need more people to embrace the concept.

DRINK LOCAL

Of course, this is easier to do if you are close to a wine-producing region. Nevertheless, pay attention to where the bottle you’re purchasing comes from. Even though efforts are made to use hybrid or electric trucks for shipping and to put stock on trains for part of the route, traditional transportation still represents the most important way to ship wine. Buying the bottle that has travelled the least number of kilometres to reach your home is a good idea. Many of us already do it naturally for food, so why not wine? The to-do list doesn’t stop here. It is a much longer and complex story. But these steps will get you started. Remember, curiosity is your best friend. Ask lots of questions, seek information on social media and keep an open mind. Along the way, you’re likely to buy something you’ve never heard of — exploring new grape varieties and regions, as well as getting acquainted with new producers, is an enjoyable way to contribute the health of the planet. In doing so, it’s possible to reduce your carbon footprint, one glass of wine at the time. ×

TWO by Gurvinder Bhatia

ISLANDS They both possess a magical allure, unwittingly attracting the people who need to find them. One is an island, while the other is referred to by its owner as “an island within an island.” Travelling to either is not easy, but both Pantelleria and Feudo Montoni are well worth the pilgrimage. As “islands”, they face peculiarities that, ironically, both threaten and safeguard their sustainability and viability.

PANTELLERIA

Geographically and geologically, Antonio Rallo of Donnafugata mentions it is closer to Africa than Sicily. By “it,” he is referring to the ancient, volcanic, wind-buffeted island of Pantelleria, which lies some 100 kilometres southwest of Sicily and less than 40 kilometres from Tunisia. The arid, wind-swept landscape — jagged, rocky cliffs; drystone walls; century-old, ungrafted, low-trained vines (alberello) and olive trees; and ancient, stone dammusi — creates the impression of Pantelleria being even more remote than it is. The wind is significant because it affects all aspects of life on the island including agriculture, which historically, says Rallo, has been its major industry. By all accounts, Pantelleria was occupied by numerous peoples throughout its history. However, Rallo explains that it is the Arab influence on the island that remains most prominent. Most districts have Arabic names and the island’s predominant and most important grape variety, Zibibbo (aka, Moscato d’Alessan-

dria), says Rallo, arrived on the island with the Arabs in 800 AD. At the time, the grape was grown and dried for consumption as raisins, as opposed to the production of Passito-style wines, for which it is best known today. Viticulture on the island is not easy. Steep slopes, terraced vineyards and low-trained alberello vines require back-breaking manual labour. Moreover, the alberello are grown in hollows to protect the vines from the wind. The Moscato and Passito wines of Pantelleria have received international recognition. Donnafugata’s Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé is considered one of Italy’s benchmark wines. The winery has vineyards in 14 different locations on Pantelleria. According to Rallo, the combination of the different districts gives the best balance, which is why they only produce one Passito. It takes four kilograms of grapes to make one litre of Passito wine. Donnafugata produces approximately 80,000 bottles (750ml equivalents) in this style a year. Today, Donnafugata can make a sustainable profit on its Passito, but for the first 10 years “not at all.” BEST OF 2019 15

ANTONIO RALLO

According to Rallo, approximately 7,000 people currently live on Pantelleria, down from a peak of 20,000 over half a century ago. He also explains that the island is 8,000 hectares in total, of which only 400 hectares are under vine. But, he adds, in the 1970s, half of the total area of the island was vineyards. The decline of viticulture is due mainly to that fact that the work is too hard for the money. Young people don’t want to stay on Pantelleria and it is difficult to find people to work. The average age of vineyard workers is over 65 years old. According to Rallo, Donnafugata was the first producer from outside Pantelleria to make wines on the island. Its first vineyard was just 2.5 hectares; now Donnafugata has close to 70 hectares. Each year, Donnafugata acquires vineyards, often not because they want to, but because they feel they have to — otherwise the vineyards will be abandoned. In many instances, older vineyard owners don’t have children who want to farm. On average, Donnafugata acquires one to three hectares a year from estates, or from those who no longer want to work the vineyards themselves. The cost to purchase vineyards, says Rallo, is relatively low. But, theoretically, he says, “there should be no price as growing grapes on the island is not sustainable. The only way to make it work is to make a good Passito and farm the land yourself.” Giulia Pazienza Gelmetti of Coste Ghirlanda first came to Pantelleria in 2001. The former professional basketball player 16 BEST OF 2019

and Italian national team member fell in love with the island and now has 30 hectares, growing Zibibbo and Grenache, and also owns Sikelia, a luxury five-star resort. Gelmetti explains that everything on the island is difficult: “You can try fighting against nature, but nature always wins.” Everyone, including her husband, initially said she was crazy to open a five-star resort on the island. But, even at more than 800 euros a night, Gelmetti says the hotel’s top suite is always full. Guests are 70 percent international and 30 percent from Italy. The peaceful solitude, remoteness and beauty of Pantelleria have always made it an attractive getaway for the rich and famous. Giorgio Armani has owned a house on the island for decades and still retreats to it for a month each summer. But the winds, lack of accessible beaches and lack of hotels have kept Pantelleria from being overrun by tourism, which is precisely why, according to Rallo, so many wealthy people from northern Italy own vacation homes here. There are also several luxurious homes on the island that are rented by those who wish to temporarily fall off the grid. Eight producers comprise Pantelleria’s wine consortium and account for 85 to 90 percent of the island’s total production. Some producers are very small but they work with the larger producers to explore commercial sales off the island. Sustainability is the greatest challenge as more and more

young people choose to leave. Together, the producers discuss, collaborate and conduct training programs for youth and those who work in the eno-gastronomic sector. They hope that by investing time and energy in trying to give a future to the island’s youth, that they will become ambassadors for Pantelleria and be encouraged to stay and attract others. Pantelleria’s recent status change to one of Sicily’s national parks, as well as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity recognition for the alberello cultivation of Zibibbo and the art of building dry-stone walls, may also result in renewed interest and perhaps more resources. Donnafugata produces wines all over Sicily, but Rallo chooses to work the harvest on Pantelleria. Gelmetti could live anywhere, but she was drawn to Pantelleria from the moment she set foot during her first visit. Rallo says, “when you start coming here, you will never stop.”

FEUDO MONTONI

Feudo Montoni is located at elevations of 400 to 750 metres above sea level in the centre of Sicily where the provinces of Agrigento, Palermo and Caltanissetta meet. Owner Fabio Sireci calls it “an island within an island.” Sireci’s characterization is not just in reference to the property’s remote location, but also the isolation of its vineyards due to the massive fields of durum wheat that have surrounded Montoni for centuries. The result, according to several wine professionals, including Ian D’Agata, Bill Nesto MW and the late Giacomo Tachis, is a purity in the DNA of the estate’s vines. Unaffected by outside influences, Montoni’s wines have a unique sense of place. Wine has seemingly been produced at Montoni for centuries. According to Sireci and partner Melissa Muller (an American of Sicilian heritage who owned several Sicilian restaurants in New York before selling them and moving to Montoni), the property passed hands many times, but always remained in the possession of aristocratic families. While the exact date that Montoni was built is not known; Sireci says that written documents show that the property comprised more than 2,000 hectares in the 14th century and that a stone of benediction found on the estate bears the date 1469. Sireci’s grandfather purchased Montoni in the late 1800s. Old vines existed on the property, but wine was not considered as important as durum wheat at the time, with the area known historically as the granary of the Roman Empire. It was Sireci’s father who started to provide energy to the estate’s wine production. The majority of grapes were initially sold to producers like Tasca d’Almerita (the nearest winery to Feudo Montoni). It was Tasca, says Sireci, that gave significant guidance with respect to how to manage Montoni’s vineyards in order to make quality wine. Sireci listened and observed and, in 1985, started to “play” with the wines by making numerous micro-vinifications each year to understand the different characteristics of the different sites on the property. He says that he is not an oenologist, but a mechanical engineer. He believes that he can only make good wine at Montoni because he “knows his baby and knows the grapes.”

It was Tachis that, after tasting Feudo Montoni’s Vrucara, a single-vineyard Nero d’Avola from pre-phylloxera vines, told Sireci that the wine had a richness of elegance, style and class to distinguish it from the ordinary and stand apart from even the more structured Nero d’Avola produced in Sicily. Standing in the Vrucara vineyard among the century-old, pre-phylloxera vines is a spiritual experience. Numerous posts each represent a “son” of Vrucara. Sireci explains that they needed to plant new vines in 2005, but when they tried to plant wild vines from the property, they always died because the “baby” could not compete with the roots of the old vines. However, to protect the genetic identity of the Vrucara vineyard, Sireci didn’t want to plant vines from outside the property, such as by purchasing vines from a nursery (which is what most wineries do). So, instead, he extended an arm from a Vrucara vine and buried it a metre underground while still attached to the “mother” plant. Sireci explains that it takes at least five to six years before the baby is self-sustaining. The mother plant can’t sustain supporting itself and its baby forever so eventually the umbilical cord connecting the two must be cut. Sireci believes that the genetic identity and sustainability of the Vrucara vineyard can be maintained through this process. The Vrucara vineyard is only 2.2 hectares, but three people work at Vrucara full-time, year-round. Feudo Montoni today consist of 100 hectares of which 40 hectares are under vine, with a mix of Catarratto, Inzolia, Grillo, Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese and Perricone. Montoni also grows heritage grains, wild oats, fenugreek, chickpeas, honeysuckle, fava beans, lentils, dill, wild fennel and olive trees. Durum wheat is still grown, but because it takes nutrients from the soil, it’s only planted in a site for one year. The next year, nitrogen-fixing legumes, such as chickpeas and fava beans, are planted in the site to enrich the soil. Sireci says Montoni is an island, an organic island, that provides work for 15 people. “Organic” in Italian, he explains, is biológico, and bio means life. For him and Muller, organic doesn’t just have to do with the plants, it also has to do with the people. Giving people the opportunity to work gives them a purpose and an identity. Sireci says that if Montoni was not organic, it could just spray or mechanize, which would mean that not as much labour would be required. But he believes in having a bigger concept of sustainability and his purpose goes beyond just making wine for money. For Sireci and Muller, “organic is not a leaf on a label.” Rather, it is the philosophy with which they live their lives. Since the wines of Feudo Montoni have started receiving greater international recognition and accolades, Sireci has been approached by large distributors, but he always says no to them. Muller says that the right partners — ones who understand their philosophy — will ultimately find them. Montoni, she adds, attracts the people who should be a part of it. How Muller found her way here is a story unto itself, but when she first visited, she felt this place “is the truth.” Isolation also allows these islands to maintain a purity of spirit as everything around them changes. Montoni stays timeless, but not lost in time because, as Muller points out, they are not lost. × BEST OF 2019 17

SECONDS, ANYONE? by Michael Apstein

The one-percenters in the U.S., along with burgeoning wealthy classes in China, Russia and other countries around the globe, are determining what wines the rest of us drink. Their seemingly insatiable appetite for the top names in Bordeaux have driven prices of those wines into the stratosphere, making them unaffordable for the vast majority of wine lovers. Fortunately for us, there is a silver lining. It’s called second wines and, indeed, it’s a lining that is shining brighter than ever.

The Bordelais have been turning out second wines since at least the early 20th century, and likely before. The practice really took off and became widespread in the early 1980s, as producers strove for higher and higher quality — in part, no doubt, to capture higher ratings from reviewers. With prices of first, or Grand, Vins not likely to fall, and the leap in quality of the second wines, they are here to stay. John Kolasa, the former managing director at both Château Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux and Château Canon in Saint-Émilion, once told me, “Today they [second wines] must be good because they are a true and authentic introduction to the estate. You must make good second wine even if it means selling off bulk wine to maintain its integrity.” And, he added with a smile, “Your name is on the label.” In Bordeaux, after harvest and fermentation, winemakers have multiple barrels of wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and the other grapes used in the red Bordeaux blend. Or in the case of dry or sweet white wines, from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. It is easy to imagine how these barrels will vary in quality depending on the age of the vines or the location of the plot from which the grapes came, and how the individual variety — Merlot or Cabernet — developed during the growing season. When making their final blend for the Grand Vin, winemakers will exclude wines from barrels they don’t think measure up. These wines will be destined for second wines or, now that producers have seen the enormous financial success of second wines, to third wines. Though associated with the wines of Bordeaux, the practice is used around the world, albeit under a different name. In parts of Italy, for example, a rosso could be considered a second wine. Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of Col d’Orcia, an excellent estate in Montalcino, told me that all of their Rosso di Montalcino comes from younger vines planted in vineyards that carry the higher Brunello di Montalcino classification. As vines in those 18 BEST OF 2019

vineyards reach 15 years of age, which he believes is when they are capable of producing consistently high-quality fruit, the grapes are candidates to be included in Col d’Orcia’s stylish Brunello. With the characteristic twinkle in his eyes, Cinzano quips, “Maybe someday I’ll make no Rosso, just Brunello.” One of the great advantages to consumers of second wines is that they mature sooner and, when compared to the Grand Vin, are far more approachable when young. That said, as the accompanying tasting notes show, they, too, can develop marvellously with bottle age. In my mind, texture is a major difference between the second wine and the Grand Vin. The tannins of the second wine are typically a touch coarser, which helps explain why the Grand Vin from a Bordeaux estate can be so suave. These days, a barrel that shows even the barest hint of roughness goes into the second wine. That is not to say the second wines are rough and unpolished. Far from it. They are just slightly less suave — think lambswool rather than cashmere — than their big brothers. You see, or feel, it when tasting them side-by-side. Indeed, you’d be hard pressed to complain while drinking a second wine from a top estate on its own. In addition to the textural differences, the second wines never have the complexity, nor the price, of the Grand Vin. Sometimes it’s the style of the Grand Vin rather than a textural element that determines what goes into the second wine. For example, in creating the blend for the 2005 vintage of Château Margaux, the late Paul Pontallier, the managing director at the time, told me that he included more Merlot — which was of very high quality and could have been included in a blend of Château Margaux — in its second wine, Pavillon Rouge, because its higher alcohol content would have altered the balance of the Grand Vin. All wine estates replant some of their vineyards regularly, either to replace vines that are diseased or too old, or if the winemaker decides a variety just does not do well in the location that had been selected for it. Depending on the estate, some of what

CHÂTEAU DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU

is included in second wine comes from younger vines, the definition of which is highly individual. Emmanuel Cruse, owner of Château d’Issan in Margaux, for example, told me that he considered vines less than 18 years old as “young.” Complicating the matter for consumers is the practice of some estates producing another label from different vineyards that they own, which currently is not a second wine, but which may have started out that way. The Domaines Delon owns both Château Léoville Las Cases and another distinct property a stone’s throw to the west called Clos du Marquis, which was the second wine of Léoville Las Cases beginning with the 1902 vintage. Batches of wine from Léoville Las Cases that were not up to snuff went into wine bottled under the Clos du Marquis label, at least until 2007. Since then, however, the wines from the two properties have been kept entirely separate, according to Pierre Graffeuille, the managing director of Domaines Delon. Léoville Las Cases still uses less than half of its production for its Grand

Vin, according to Stephen Brook, a world expert on Bordeaux and author of The Complete Bordeaux, relying on its newly — since 2007 — christened second wine, Le Petit Lion, for a substantial portion of the rest. And the Clos du Marquis now has its own second wine, La Petite Marquise. Then there are those second wines, such as La Croix du Beaucaillou, that are almost exclusively from a separate terroir, comparable to the Léoville Las Cases Clos du Marquis situation, but still can include grapes from the mother ship (Château Ducru Beaucaillou, in the case of La Croix du Beaucaillou). THERE’S NO FORMULA FOR MAKING A SECOND WINE. At

some estates, such as d’Issan, fruit from younger vines plays a major role. At Léoville Las Cases, much of their excellent oldvine Merlot, in fact, goes into the second wine because it otherwise would throw the Grand Vin out of balance, according to Graffeuille. There is a lot of Merlot planted at Las Cases; it’s BEST OF 2019 19

EMMANUEL CRUSE, OWNER OF CHÂTEAU D’ISSAN IN MARGAUX

needed to soften the final wine because Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc have often had difficulty achieving full ripeness in the past. Now with climate change, the Cabernets get plenty ripe, according to Graffeuille, so there’s less need for Merlot in the blend. Château Palmer, always in competition with neighbouring Château Margaux to produce the best wine from that commune, takes a slightly different approach. They have identified parcels in the vineyard that produce grapes suitable for their style of Grand Vin and other parcels that produce grapes for a differently styled wine. The latter wine is more forward and fruitier; since the 1998 vintage, it’s been bottled and labelled as Alter Ego de Palmer. A third set of vineyard parcels produce grapes for either style, depending on the vintage. However, Château Palmer insists they produce two differently styled wines from their estate and no second wine. Consistent with their philosophy, they produced no Alter Ego in 2018 because the character of the grapes did not fit that style, but they did produce Château Palmer that year. The suave 2015 Alter Ego sells for $120, while the same vintage of Château Palmer, which still needs cellaring, will set you back $460. 20 BEST OF 2019

The now-retired Marcel Ducasse, who was responsible for the incredible turnaround at Château Lagrange in the 1980s, was emphatic when he told me, “selection is the key for making good wine.” He described how when he took over at Lagrange, the Château made only one wine. Referring to the practice as a fosse commune (or, everyone in the same grave), he described how everything, including the rough-and-tumble press wine, went into the blend. Currently, under the very capable leadership of Matthieu Bordes, Lagrange produces three wines, with the Grand Vin representing less than half of the total production. Lagrange’s second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, and wine that fails to make the cut for Les Fiefs, which they sell off in bulk, accounts for the other half. Ducasse pointed out that while selection may be a costly technique for improving quality, it can be done quickly, unlike improvements in the vineyards, which could take a decade. THE FOCUS ON SELECTION HAS ALSO FUELLED THE CREATION OF THIRD WINES. High-profile châteaux, such as Châ-

teau Latour and Château Margaux, are now bottling third wines, taking advantage of their status and extraordinary selection cri-

teria. Château Latour first bottled Pauillac de Latour in 1989 as a way to increase the quality of their already excellent second wine, Les Forts de Latour, which they introduced with the 1966 vintage. The decision likely helped their bottom line as well. The 2010 Pauillac de Latour currently sells for $180 a bottle compared to $370 for the same vintage of Les Forts de Latour and up to $2,000 a bottle for Château Latour. In 1997, Château Margaux starting culling wines to improve their second wine, Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux, but instead of bottling that wine, they sold it off in bulk. Then, starting with the exceptional 2009 vintage, they bottled it as Margaux du Château du Margaux. Look for more châteaux to follow with third wines as prices and quality of their Grand Vins and second wines continue to escalate. A quick look at Ducru Beaucaillou shows how second wines can be a boon for the consumer. Since 2003, when Bruno Borie took over management, the production of Ducru Beaucaillou, the Grand Vin, has been cut in half, while bottling of La Croix du Beaucaillou has doubled. The quality of Ducru Beaucaillou, always high, has climbed even higher. The addition of wine from the better located mother ship has simultaneously increased the quality of La Croix du Beaucaillou. The consumer can buy the 2011 La Croix, which is beautiful to drink now, for $66, instead of $150 for the 2011 Ducru, which still needs time in the cellar. Les Forts de Latour, 1970: This, the second wine of Château Latour, is simply amazing and marvellous at nearly a half a century old. Still fresh and lively, it has developed beautifully, without a hint of fatigue, and delivers the Latour combination of density and power. Its tannic structure is still present, but neither

aggressive nor coarse. Its silky texture is particularly surprising for a second wine and acts as a counterpoint to its power. It actually expands in the glass over an hour or two. This gorgeous wine destroys the notion that all second wines are meant to be drunk young and won’t develop. Château Bahans Haut-Brion, 2000: The second wine of Château Haut-Brion carried this label until the 2007 vintage when it was renamed Le Clarence de Haut Brion to honour Clarence Dillon who acquired the property in 1935. Still youthful at nearly 20 years of age, this quite powerful wine delivers the alluring, ash-like quality of its big brother. Merlot typically accounts for only 25 percent of the blend compared to 45 percent in the Grand Vin, which might explain why it’s not as plush. Nonetheless, it’s a delight to drink, but there’s no rush because there’s not a hint of tiredness here. Les Fiefs de Lagrange, 2015: The second wine of Château Lagrange in Saint-Julien, the 2015 Les Fiefs is surprisingly suave. Just the barest hint of granular tannins in the finish give it away as a second wine. Its main difference from the Grand Vin is its more forward and fruity focus rather than a firmer mineral quality. Though perfect for current drinking with a steak, I know how Les Fiefs develop so, again, there’s no rush. Blason d’Issan, 2000: Château d’Issan and this one, its second wine, are perennial over-achievers. Though not as silky as the Grand Vin, the 2000 Blason d’Issan is remarkably suave. It opens with air to reveal a captivating earthy character. Lively and fresh, it’s a joy to drink. This second wine has developed beautifully and will continue to evolve given its balance. ×

BEST OF 2019 21

GARNACH’? ... NATCH!

by Konrad Ejbich

CASTILLO DE MONSERAN’S VITICULTURIST JULIO PRIETO

DOES ANYONE NEED A SECOND REASON TO DRINK GARNACHA? The first

reason is obvious. It tastes great. Truth is, most folks have no idea they’re drinking Garnacha when it’s in their glass. But if your wine-buying habits include any of the warm wine regions of the Mediterranean, you probably drink a fair amount of it already. Grenache — the French and more common name for Garnacha — plays the lead role in many luscious red, rosé and white blends. It’s like the hidden ingredient in a secret sauce. Yet it is also one of the oldest and most widely planted grapes. If you drink wines from northeastern or central Spain, including those from the regions of Ampurdàn-Costa Brava, Campo de Borja, Cariñena, Costers del Segre, Madrid, La Mancha, Méntrida, Penedès, Navarra, Priorat, Rioja, Somontano, Tarragona, Terra Alta, Utiel-Requena or Valdeorras ... you drink Garnacha. 22 BEST OF 2019

If you’re more of an all-day-rosé person, and you reach mostly for the warm-tasting, fruity, pale-pink blends hailing from Provence, Tavel and Roussillon ... you drink Grenache. If you love the food-friendly blends of the Côtes du Rhône, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages and especially Châteauneuf-duPape, with their fruity complexity, solid structure and precise acid-mineral tension ... you drink Grenache. If your organoleptic fancy is tickled only by the rich, spicy, dark-fruited, full-bodied leathery GSMs of Australia, you drink ... well, what did you think the “G” stood for? And if you’ve had the opportunity to encounter the complex flavours of black plum, field berries, saddle leather and herbs in the tight reds of Sardinia, you drink Cannonau ... which happens to be the local name for Garnacha/Grenache. Did I mention North Africa?

This multilingual grape exists in red, pink and white versions, although black grenache makes up the vast majority of plantings. (There’s also a hairy-leafed clone, Garnacha Peluda, not commonly used.) Rosés and reds tend to deliver warm, generous, fruity mouthfuls of ripe blackberry, blackcurrant along with subtle, gamey, herbal notes. They are complex, structured and well balanced. The darker the colour, the stronger the flavours will be. Reds are plump, with tongue-coating flavours and a clean, but thick, texture. THE RARE AND DELICIOUS WHITE GARNACHAS ARE CLEAN, supple and

elegant, with a touch of fennel or anise on the nose, a silky, supple palate and a heady, bitter/clean finish. They are fabulous to drink on their own and are perfectly delectable with a wide variety of foods on a summer buffet table.

For me, Spanish Garnacha has a special cha-cha, while French Grenache has its own panache. In other words, each expression of this grape is unique, revealing the terroir of its source. In my brief travels criss-crossing the Pyrénées of Spain and France this past summer, I discovered that a lot of folks there are French or Spanish on the surface but have Catalan hearts. Everywhere we went, there were signs of Catalan cuisine, Catalan culture and Catalan dreams. On the Spanish side, Catalunya is the expansive area that includes the regulated wine zones of Calatayud, Campo de Borja, Cariñena, Somontano and Terra Alta. On the French side, there is the sprawling French grape-growing region of Roussillon. This area, encompassing the lands known as the Pyrénées-Orientales, includes 14 recognized appellations and three IGPs, producing mainly dry still wines but also some of the country’s best sweet fortified and rancio wines. It’ll be a long time before I can forget a vin doux naturel from the tiny appellation of Maury, made in 1925 by a long-forgotten vigneron. To get a better image of the sprawling home of Garnacha and Grenache, visualize the satellite view of a huge, east-facing amphitheatre hugging the western end of Mediterranean Sea. This is hot country, which makes the grape very happy. It loves the warm winds, the blistering daily averages and the cool evenings that provide grapevines an opportunity to rejuvenate their acid balance. The countryside shares many of the characteristics of Provence and the Southern Rhône with respect to terrain and climate. The same wild herbs that grow by the roadside throughout the south of France are here, giving the wines a bouquet-garni aroma commonly known as garrigue. These wines are refreshing on their own, even better slightly chilled. They adapt to all the fresh and varied foods of the Mediterranean kitchen, and absolutely shine at large family gatherings with a bountiful buffet. Wines made with Grenache are what I like to call happy wines. There’s no sense of urgency to assess, evaluate or examine them: just kick back, sniff and sip, repeat, and be happy. ×

CASTILLO DE MONSERAN GARNACHA 2017, DO CARIÑENA, SPAIN ($10.95)

A terrific-value general listing in Ontario, widely available elsewhere. Rich ruby colour with bright cherry-berry fruit aromas and an easy-going plummy finish. Nicely balanced with some real flavour spunk. CLOS DALIAN GARNACHA BLANCA 2017, DO TERRA ALTA, SPAIN ($15)

Stainless-steel fermented to preserve fruit and acidity. Bright straw-gold hue with a nose of white flowers, poached pear and wet-stone minerality. Light enough to go with poached fish; rich enough to pair with creamy, white-meat dishes. Killer with tortilla española hors d’oeuvres. COCA I FITO JASPI BLANC 2017, DO TERRA ALTA, SPAIN ($24.95)

Old-vine white Garnacha with a tiny bit of Macabeo blended in, as permitted by the DO. Straw-gold with brilliant reflections. The floral, honeyed nose has tropical notes of peach and sweet citrus. Strong mineral core with plenty of ripe lemony fruit in the finish. DOMAINE LAFAGE CUVÉE NICOLAS VIEILLES VIGNES GRENACHE NOIR 2016, IGP CÔTES CATALANES, FRANCE ($19.95)

Made from 65-year-old vines grown on a range of soils, including granite, slate, schist and quartz near the Mediterranean coast. Bright, floral aromas of violet and dark chocolate with flavours of raspberry and liquorice. Plush texture, soft tannins and an elegant aftertaste with a clean, lovely finish. Terrific value. DOMAINE LAFAGE MIRAFLORS ROSÉ 2018, AOP CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON, FRANCE ($17)

Is this the palest rosé in France? No, but it is one of the tastiest. Slight scent of strawberry and grapefruit with rich, supple texture and an elegant, clean, light finish. An all-day rosé. MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS GRAN RESERVA 2016, DO CARIÑENA, SPAIN ($17.95)

A classic blend where Garnacha plays the lead role. It’s an inky, purple-hued mini-monster with bold fruit flavours, solid texture and weight and a superb finish showing breed and elegance. Sunday-night dinner wine at an everyday price. MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS SPECIAL SELECTION OLD VINE GARNACHA 2016, DO CARIÑENA, SPAIN ($16.95)

A 100 percent pure varietal from small parcels of bush vines at least 40 years old. This is Garnacha at its best. Assertive fruit and terroir bouquet and palate, with plush texture and a tasty, lingering, mineral finish. Superb value. SAN ALEJANDRO LAS ROCAS GARNACHA 2016, DO CALATAYUD, SPAIN ($18)

One of my favourites of the trip was from this dynamic co-op with 1,100 hectares of high-mountain vines. Simple, yet especially delicious and satisfying. Great fruit; sweet oaky, spicy complexity and supple mouthfeel. This one made me smile and sigh with glee. BEST OF 2019 23

SIX MILES COMING BACK

by Tod Stewart

It’s 9:00 am and I’m in danger of spilling my whisky on account of the shakes I’m having in the car. Hmmm. Okay, I realize that statement makes me sound rather less than temperate … or responsible. I can assure you that I’m usually at least one of those. Usually. But I guess I should clarify, if for no other reason than to dispel any potential bias that might make me seem rather vile and discourage you from reading further. I was shaking not because of the amount of Scotch I may or may not have had the night before. Rather, the car I was riding in (not driving) was hitting ruts. Okay? Are we good? The cab, affectionately called the “drambulance,” (actual company name withheld on account of, well, like, potential police investigations and stuff ) was ferrying me to my next (and, unfortunately, final) distillery visit. I arrived here, on the isle of Islay in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, by way of a flight from Glasgow, where I had initially touched down en route from Toronto. The weather today is warm, sunny and very un-stereotypically Scottish. Glasgow had met me with what visitors are told to expect: chilly, damp and windy weather, with sullen grey skies. However, a rather pleasant tour of one of the few remaining and functional Lowland distilleries — Auchentoshan — brightened my mood considerably. As my informative guide led me past the towering copper stills and among the barrels in the aging cellar, I asked him why the popularity of many Lowland whiskies had dropped to the point where many distilleries had closed and been dismantled. “Not big enough,” he replied, explaining that as single malt whiskies grew in popularity there was a feeling that “bigger was 24 BEST OF 2019

better,” which was why the elegant lightness of Lowland drams had fallen out of fashion. Also, Glasgow was emerging as an industrial centre, and land occupied by distilleries was increasingly coveted (and bought up) by developers. Tasting through a range of Auchentochan samples — including an incredible 21-year-old — I mused over the strange human condition that equates “lightness” with a lack of character. I mean, think about most great Pinot Noir-based wines. Though they are typically described as “elegant,” “gentle” or “light,” they are hardly lacking in complexity, depth and personality. The same was true of the Auchentochan samples. Sure, triple distillation gave them a certain delicacy in body, but in no way did that inhibite their power. To see what I’m talking about, pick yourself up a bottle of the easy-to-find Auchentochan 12-Year-Old expression. Wimpy? Methinks not. The distillery itself is a pretty short drive from downtown Glasgow. If you intend to visit the city, I’d suggest the cool, little Dakota Hotel as your base of operations. For lunch, pop into The Highland Fox, which isn’t far away, for some typically classic (and tasty) Scottish fare. I also had a terrific dinner at Ardnamurchan Scottish Restaurant & Bar. Black pudding fritters, velvety smoked salmon and trout, silky seafood chowder, robust venison stew and possibly the best fried calamari I’ve ever had (who woulda thunk?) made for a bit of a waddle back to the Dakota to pack for my flight to Islay the following morning.

“AH, CANADIAN,” MY DRIVER SIGHS CONTENTEDLY AS WE HEAD FROM THE ISLAY AIRPORT TO THE TOWN OF BOWMORE. He’d asked where I was from,

assuming I was probably American. “I like Canadians,” he admits. “They’re like smart Americans.” Hey, he said it, right? Islay is only about 40 kilometres long and 32 kilometres wide, but its distilleries — nine of them and counting — contribute substantial yearly duty revenue to the British government (close to £200 million). The capital, Bowmore, fits the mould of most of the towns on Islay, at least the ones I saw during my (too) brief stay. Whitewashed buildings, the tang of sea air, the cry of gulls, hospitable locals and, in many cases, a prominent distillery, are all to be found in the settlements that sit seaside. I’m deposited at the Harbour Inn and Restaurant on the shore of Loch Indaal. It’s a great place to stay while you explore the island, nicely combining rusticity and modernity. I took a quick walkabout of the town before heading over to Bowmore distillery, Islay’s oldest whisky producer (at least from a legal standpoint). As the afternoon sun sparkled off the rippling waters of Loch Indaal, I was led through the reception centre and, eventually, downstairs, where the air was chilled and infused with the scent of the Atlantic that lapped (peacefully today) at the building’s seaward wall. In front of me was a doorway that represented Heaven’s Gate to malt lovers: the entrance to the legendary No. 1 Vaults. Behind this edifice, casks

JOHN CAMPBELL

of aging whisky were slumbering, breathing in the sea air and giving back the “angel’s share” of evaporated spirit (though the angels are kept a bit on the thirsty side, the cool temperatures slowing evaporation to a degree). I was lucky enough to work through a range of Bowmore expressions from the briny, zesty, citrus-tinged No. 1, through some rarer numbers, including a couple of delicious 20-year-old versions and a pair of 15-year-old “Distillery Exclusives” pulled straight from their barrels. Though it won’t be quite the same experience, you can easily get to know the “Bowmore style” on these shores. Pick up a bottle of the Bowmore 12-Year-Old and experience the rich, honeyed, smoky goodness (yes, I think I can say that) that tends to form the base of all Bowmore expressions. It was after a hearty meal of fresh, succulent mussels at the Lochside Hotel, and a relaxing dram (and sound sleep) back at the Harbour Inn that night that I found myself in the back of the “drambulance”

the next morning, trying not to spill my whisky as we drove southeast towards Laphroaig distillery. Laphroaig is part of what you might consider something of a “holy trinity” on the stretch of road that leads down the coast. On the way, you’ll pass Ardbeg and eventually hit Lagavulin — also familiar names to Scotch lovers. “It’s about four miles to go from the first distillery to the last,” my driver/doctor informs. “It’s about six miles coming back.” There’s a certain dry irony to Scottish humour. FRAGRANT BURNING PEAT WAFTS OUT OF THE MALTING ROOM CHIMNEY, WITH ITS TYPICAL PAGODA-SHAPED TOP. As a quick Scotch 101

review, malting is the process of soaking and then drying barley in order for the grains to germinate and, in turn, convert starch to fermentable sugar via enzyme action. (Okay, I’m being somewhat technically inaccurate here, but the end result is the same.) Not too many distill-

eries still follow this practice (by that I mean malting “in house” rather than purchasing malted grain from a specialized malting house). The steeped grain is, in the case of practically all Islay distilleries (practically all, but not all) subject to smoking over flaming/smouldering peat. In some cases, the peat generates enough heat to help dry the grain. At Laphroiag, I was surprised that I could reach into the kiln with my bare hand and actually touch the burning chunks of peat with no adverse effect. This was a demonstration of “cold smoking” at its most tactile. Here, peat smoke is used solely to aromatize the barley, while the actual “drying” is done via hot air pumped in from the still house. Laphroaig master distiller John Campbell told me that the practice of hand-cutting (rather than machine-harvesting) peat allows Laphroaig to maintain a certain degree of moisture in the peat “bricks” (I’m using that term for lack of a better one). “Damp peat provides BEST OF 2019 25

smoke but no heat,” he confirms. “We just want smoke and not drying at this point.” It’s like when you were a kid building your first campfire. You were taught to find nice, old, dry wood that would catch quickly and burn hot. Trying to burn green, sap-filled branches just resulted in huge plumes of smoke. Laphroaig smokes the peat to a phenolic level of 40 to 60 parts per million (ppm). It’s not outrageously high (I’ve had at least one whisky where the phenol level exceeded 200 ppm), but it’s certainly enough to impart a distinct smokiness while retaining some delicacy and balance. Climbing up to the malting floor, I shovel a couple grains of the dried, smoked barley into my yap, enjoying the pleasant crunchy texture and nutty/slightly smoky flavour. The husks are bit dry and throatsticky, though, making swallowing the stuff a bit of a problem. Helps if you’re a cow or something, I guess. Anyway, while tasting a range of Laphroaig barrel samples (fino, manzanilla, bourbon — the latter being my fave), what I couldn’t help thinking about, while mentally comparing them to the Bowmore samples, was just how different the taste profiles of Islay whiskies can be. I 26 BEST OF 2019

mean, they’re all made in basically the same way, from basically the same stuff, on a relatively small chunk of sea-circled rock, but the “house style” of the spirit from Laphroaig is easily distinguished from that of Bowmore, or even from distilleries that are within walking (or whatever) distance away from Laphroaig. Campbell lets me in on a couple techniques used at Laphroaig to craft a distinctive spirit. “We have two different sizes of spirit stills,” he reveals, “and we run them slightly differently to ultimately produce two distinct flavours. These are always married together, and never separated. Also, when creating a bottling, we leave behind 20 percent of the previous vatting to ensure flavour carryover. And we take from all warehouses on site to ensure the flavour variation from maturation is removed in order to get a consistent flavour pool through all these tasks.” Having thoroughly toured the Laphroaig distillery (and thoroughly sampled its wares), I’m led on a quick sightseeing tour around the island. Seals bask on rocks jutting from the Atlantic enjoying both the welcome sun and the calm seas. Imposing (but rather docile) Highland cows, with their thick gin-

ger, black, yellow and sometimes “silver” coats, long horns and pronounced “bangs” graze in the pastures stretching southwest of the Port Charlotte Lighthouse. Vast, pristine sand beaches line numerous stretches of the Loch Indaal shoreline. In the distance, looking seaward from Laphroaig, the coast of Northern Ireland looms in the far distance. My time here has been short — far too short to even begin to soak in the character of the island and those who call it home. Which makes a return trip a given rather than a possibility. If you haven’t made it here yourself, I strongly recommend doing so. A word of warning: Wi-Fi and cellular connectivity can be a bit sketchy, depending where on the island you are. This doesn’t seem to bother the locals who, as far as I can tell, are perfectly content to engage in all sorts of “primitive” distractions. Like taking in the gorgeous, tranquil yet rugged scenery. Or chatting with neighbours. Or convening in a local pub for a bite and maybe a dram or two of the closest distillery’s wares. I know, I know, it sounds positively barbaric; but give it a chance. It’s just like your smart phone: one bar, not so good. Two bars, not bad. Three bars, now we’re talking. Once you hit four bars, you’ll be perfectly connected. ×

BUYING GUIDE

All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Jordan St. John and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs

SPARKLING ALTA ALELLA MIRGIN RESERVA BRUT NATURE 2016, CAVA, SPAIN ($21.20)

This family-owned domaine crafts outstanding Cava that offers typicity, elegance and complexity. The grapes are organically farmed and this particular cuvée is made of a blend of Xarel-lo (40%), Macabeo (30%) and Parellada (30%). Fine creamy mousse with delicate flavours of toast, red apple, lemon and a hint of mushroom. Medium to long finish. Incredible value and a delicious option when you are craving Champagne but your wallet cannot afford it. (MB) MAVERICK ESTATE ELLA FAMILY RESERVE 2013, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($52)

Méthode Traditionelle, inaugural release of reserve sparkling. Set aside from the regular 2013 release and left six years on lees, until August 2019. Pale gold to salmon in the glass, with fine bubbles and a persistent mousse. Upfront almond and brioche hints precede a superbly balanced palate of citrus and creamy notes, with definite Pinot notes, through a well-textured finish. Stock up for the holidays. (TP)

WHITE

RECOMMENDED FRANCE

$20 AND UNDER

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES RIESLING OLD VINES 2015, NIAGARA-ON-THE LAKE ($18.95)

Bright straw colour with a slightly oily, minerally, honeyed grapefruit nose. Light body, off-dry, tangerine, grapefruit and lemon flavour. Beautifully balanced and lingering with a touch of honey on the finish. An ideal opening wine for any event or better yet with rabbit. (TA) UNITED STATES KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER’S RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2017 ($17)

Your classic oaky California Chardonnay. Deep gold. Medium nose with lots of fruit: papaya, pineapple, apricot, pear and vanilla from the oak. Full body with more oak on the palate, a bit of grapefruit bitterness and good acidity offsetting the sweet apricot nectar, apple and pineapple flavours. Best served not too cold to those who like their wines a bit over the top. Did I mention the oak? Drink up. (RL)

DOMAINE LA CABOTTE 2018, COLLINE CÔTES DU RHÔNE AOC (20$)

Typical notes of stone fruit and garrigues with a pleasant rounded and oily texture. Full body with soft acid, but leaves an impression of freshness thanks to the slight bitterness and the chalky finish. Simple but extremely enjoyable with seared scallops or baked cod. (MB) LOUIS LATOUR CHARDONNAY 2016, AC BOURGOGNE ($20)

Strong nose of canned fruit salad, especially pears and peaches, with some citrus and oak. Full-bodied, packed with citrus and ripe apple fruit so that it tastes almost sweet, but has French restraint from acidity and oak. Made for a roasted farm chicken with rich dark gravy. Drink now. (RL) NEW ZEALAND KIM CRAWFORD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, MARLBOROUGH ($14)

Floral nose, mostly elderflower with gooseberry and a bit of guava. Light-bodied with high acidity amplifying flavours of lemon, grapefruit, lime and Granny Smith apple. Could have a more integrated character. Drink up. (RL) BEST OF 2019 27

BUYING GUIDE MATUA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, HAWKE’S BAY ($10)

Pale yellow. Complex nose of gooseberry, pineapple, cut grass and some passionfruit. Light-bodied, the lemon-lime fruit is a bit thin on the palate, with high acidity and some grapefruit pith bitterness on the finish. Drink up. (RL) UNITED STATES KIRKLAND SONOMA COUNTY CHARDONNAY 2017 ($14)

Faint nose of apple, a whiff of sauerkraut, caramel from the oak. Medium-bodied, slightly sweet, tastes a bit like a slightly diluted fruit cocktail. Tree-huggers beware: oak was not spared in this wine. (RL)

mouthfeel, through a crisp, clean close. Fermented in French oak with partial malolactic fermentation for a very a pure varietal expression. (TP)

JOIE FARM EN FAMILLE MUSCAT 2018, NARAMATA BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($24)

From BC’s first Demeter Certified Biodynamic vineyards and winery. Made from over 40-year-old vines at the home estate, farmed using biodynamic principles. Fermented naturally, outdoors, using ambient farm yeasts. Inviting aromas of orchard and stone fruit with green apple and a slight petrol hint, before a luscious palate denoting a purity of flavour and excellent varietal expression, good mouthfeel and lingering finish. (TP)

Aromatic honeysuckle and peach bouquet suggest sweetness, but the wine is delightfully dry and beautifully balanced. Light and fragrant on the palate with fresh tangerine acidity that sustains the peach-lychee flavour. Clean and true: the perfect nice weather wine. (TA) LAUGHING STOCK VINEYARDS VIOGNIER 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($24.99)

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA BAILLIE GROHMAN GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2018, KOOTENAY ($21)

Aromas of rose petal and spice precede a fresh, well-balanced palate. Tropical flavours, lychee, spice and ginger hints are underpinned by a well-balanced acidity through a fresh, clean close. Textbook Gewürz from one of BC’s (rapidly) “emerging regions.” (TP) HILLSIDE WINERY MUSCAT OTTONEL 2018, NARAMATA BENCH ($22)

Floral and quite perfumed aromas with tropical notes before a juicy and layered palate with orange blossom, good acidity and spice hints through the finish. (TP) MOON CURSER ARNEIS 2018, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($22.99)

Hand-picked and hand-sorted at the 28 BEST OF 2019

estate vineyard on Osoyoos East Bench. Likely the only Arneis grown in Canada. Aromas of apple, citrus and honey precede a creamy and elegant palate supported by moderate acidity with juicy lemon-lime notes and touch of minerality through a lingering fresh finish. (TP)

Honeysuckle, peachy-melon nose. Medium body, dry, aromatic peach and melon flavours. Beautifully balanced, lovely mouthfeel with an exotic peach and cardamom note. (TA) JOIE FARM A NOBLE BLEND 2017, NARAMATA BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25.90)

A blend of 49% Gewürztraminer, 32% Riesling, 9% Auxerrois, 6% Pinot Blanc and 4% Muscat. Medium yellow straw colour. Aromatic, slightly oily nose of muskmelon. Medium body and crisply dry. The Gewürz shines through with lychee and grapefruit flavours. Beautifully balanced and lingering on the palate. (TA) TIGHTROPE CHARDONNAY 2017, NARAMATA BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($26)

Lifted floral and orchard notes over chalky hints, followed by lemon zest and mineral wrapped in vibrant acidity balanced by a touch of neutral oak for added

SUMMERHILL VINEYARD (BLACK LABEL) RIESLING 2017, SOUTH KELOWNA, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($28)

LAUGHING STOCK VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($28.99)

A lightly toasty, apple bouquet with oak spice and a floral grace note. Medium body, dry, pear, apple and lemon flavours with well-integrate oak and a long, fresh, citrus finish. (TA) FRANCE ROQUEFORTISSIME 2015, AOC BORDEAUX ($24)

100% Sauvignon Blanc. The aroma is robust but otherwise not typical, smelling more of peaches, apricots, banana and lemon. Very dry, with lots of oak, overlying banana and lime flavours with good acidity. Drink now. (RL)* DOMAINE DU VIEUX COLLÈGE 2015, AOC MARSANNAY ($32)

Medium-deep yellow. Medium nose with forward oak followed by bread dough, apple and banana. Dry and refined, a lady in

a Chanel gown with, thankfully, less busty oak on the palate than the nose foreshadows. Peach and apple flavours lead to a long finish. Drink now. (RL)* SPAIN CALLEJUELA LAS MERCEDES VINS PARACELLAIRES 2018, SPAIN ($30)

Palomino is a white grape that typically finds its way in Sherry, but this bodega crafts a characterful white from it. Full body with appealing salty and roasted almond notes, and a charming oxidative profile. The slight bitterness compensates for the moderate acidity. A wine made to shine with food: Manchego and roasted almond for the aperitif; mushroom risotto for the main course. (MB)

UNITED STATES MER SOLEIL CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2017, MONTEREY COUNTY ($29.95)

A lightly toasty, spicy nose with a note of the forest floor. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, richly extracted apple and melon flavours rounded out with oak. Well-balanced and long finish. (TA)

RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA CHAFFEY BROS WINE CO. NOT YOUR GRANDMA’S RIESLING 2016, EDEN VALLEY ($20.90)

Bone dry with bright acid and explosive notes of white grapefruit, key lime pie and white peaches that awake the taste buds. Simple with a moderate finish but so thirst quenching. A great partner when you are ordering sushi to go. (MB) FRANCE DOMAINE LA GRANGE TIPHAINE 2018, TRINQU’ÂMES TOURAINE SAUVIGNON AOC ($21.45)

Restrained with a pleasant austere profile that keeps the Sauvignon Blanc in check. Light with mouth-watering acidity and pleasing aromas of green apple, lime and lemon underlined with mineral and saline notes. A refreshing aperitif, especially when served with fresh goat cheese and crackers. (MB)

HENRI BOURGEOIS LES BARONNES 2018, SANCERRE AOC ($29)

Vibrant with brisk acid and expressive yet not overt notes of lemon, lime, grapefruit with a hint of wet stone and a pleasant chalky texture. Moderate to long finish. Ripe without losing the restrained typicity given by the cool climate of the Loire Valley. A natural with fresh oysters. (MB)

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

blackcurrant) now peaking. From a very good vintage, and still packed with fruit, this is ready to drink now and will plateau for a few years. (RL) ITALY CRIVELLI GRIGNOLINO D’ASTI 2018, PIEDMONT ($38)

Possesses a beautiful floral nose, perfumed and elegant showing sour cherry, citrus peel, juicy tannin and a delicate firmness. Best served slightly chilled. (GB)

CANADA PHANTOM CREEK PINOT GRIS 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($36)

From Okanagan Falls vines, the collaboration between BC’s most impressive new winery and Alsace luminary Olivier Humbrecht more than lives up to expectations. All wild fermented with a 12- to 14-hour press cycle. After orchard and stone fruit aromas, the mouthfeel is generous and the flavours varietally pure, with generous but not excessively viscose mouthfeel thanks to time in large oak foudres. (TP) CHECKMATE QUEEN TAKEN CHARDONNAY 2015, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($125)

Small lot production from over 40-year-old vines near Oliver, planted in 1975, a modified double curtain canopy. Night-time hand harvested. Orchard fruit, tropical and floral notes on top, followed by a well-textured palate defined by citrus and peach wrapped in well-managed oak and precise acidity through a lingering finish. (TP) FRANCE BERNARD DEFAIX CHABLIS 1ER CRU VAILLONS 2017 ($41.50)

Tight with searing acidity and mouth-watering well-defined notes of green apple, mushroom, lime and wet stones. Complex long finish. Enjoyable now but will continue to reveal its depth over the next five to nine years. (MB) CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-BARTON 2010, AC SAINT-JULIEN ($180)

Nearly opaque garnet, still a touch of pink at the rim. Nose of cassis, of course, but also black cherry, then opens with time in the glass to dates and figs. Only medium bodied, with fairly high acidity. Tannins starting to mellow and fruit (blackberry,

× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/

ELENA WALCH PINOT BIANCO KRISTALLBERG 2018, ALTO ADIGE ($44)

Bright and fresh with aromas and flavours of green apple, white peach and pear. Great balance between fruitiness, minerality and acidity, energetic and focussed. A lovely wine on its own and versatile accompaniment to so many styles of cuisine. (GB)

UNITED STATES HOLLORAN RIESLING 2013, WILLAMETTE VALLEY ($36)

Strong nose of Diesel/jet fuel over flowers, lime and orange. Light bodied with high acidity and lots of fruit, including apple, pineapple and lime. Drink now. (RL)*

RECOMMENDED GERMANY DÖNNHOFF KREUZNACHER KRÖTENPFUHL RIESLING KABINETT 2018, NAHE ($36)

Elegant, precise and complex. An outstanding wine where the residual sugar is brilliantly balanced by the tangy acidity. Bright notes of lime, lemon sorbet and white peaches are underlined with mineral notes that linger on the finish. Ripe yet linear. I wish I had multiple cases in my cellar. You can drink now, but will it ever shine 15 to 20 years from now. (MB) ITALY MALVIRA ROERO ARNEIS TRINITÀ 2018, PIEDMONT ($40)

Expressive and bright with white peach, mineral and fresh herbs, good complexity and length. Well-focussed and mouth-watering. (GB) BEST OF 2019 29

BUYING GUIDE ROSÉ ROAD 13 HONEST JOHN’S ROSÉ 2018, VQA BRITISH COLUMBIA ($17)

Vivid deep coppery pink. Fairly strong nose of strawberry, orange and banana. Medium body, slightly sweet, tastes of strawberries and ripe banana. A crowd pleaser. Drink now. (RL) HONSBERGER ESTATE ROSÉ 2018, NIAGARA ($24)

Lightly floral, cherry nose. Well-extracted cherry and cranberry flavours, crisply dry and very elegant. (TA) BLACK HILLS ROSÉ 2018, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($24.90)

Blend of Pinot Noir (42%), Gamay Noir (35%) and Malbec (23%) sourced from north of Oliver, Sandhill Vineyard and West Osoyoos. Aromas of orchard and stone fruit precede a fresh and juicy palate of strawberry, peach and rhubarb with some creamy hints and a spicy, savoury edge. (TP)

color of dark smoked salmon and has a robust nose of strawberry, pineapple and peach. Full bodied for a rosé, it is slightly sweet, tasting of more strawberries, raspberries and mandarin orange with good acidity. Drink up. (RL)

RED

Very pale pink with a bluish tint. Minerally, cherry-pit nose. Medium body, dry, with a lightly floral cherry flavour and a fresh, acidic finish. A charming wine. (TA)

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

30 BEST OF 2019

Medium nose of black cherry with milk chocolate and vanilla. Full bodied with a soft mouthfeel despite tangy acidity. Young and fruity cherry flavours, easy to quaff for a hearty red wine. (RL)*

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA

AUSTRALIA ANGUS THE BULL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017, CENTRAL VICTORIA ($16.45)

Deep ruby in colour. Cedary, lightly floral, blackcurrant bouquet. Medium body, dry, savoury, plum and blackcurrant flavours carried on lively acidity. Well-structured, with ripe tannins. Great with steak. (TA)

RECOMMENDED

CREEKSIDE RED TRACTOR CABERNET FRANC 2017, ONTARIO ($17.95)

Opaque purple in colour with a cedary, spicy nose. Medium body, dry, blackcurrant and plum flavours. Savoury on the palate with a firm, tannic finish. (TA)

ADORADA ROSÉ 2017, CALIFORNIA ($213)

I deducted points for the useless and irritating plastic covering poured over the cork that shatters sharp shards of black plastic all over your kitchen when you try to remove the cork. Send a message to the producers: do not buy this wine! (Now I have got that off my chest and vacuumed the plastic off my floor…) The wine is the

GROOTE POST SHIRAZ 2015, DARLING HILLS ($17)

$20.01 TO $35

$20 AND UNDER

CANADA CEDARCREEK PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2018, KELOWNA ($29.99)

SOUTH AFRICA

FRANCE CHÂTEAU DE ROUQUETTE 2014, AC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX ($17)

Deep garnet. Faint nose of raspberry and oak. Thin on the palate with ripe raspberry flavours and soft tannins. Drink now. (RL)*

CORCELETTES MERLOT 2016, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($24)

From vines grown on rocky, Stemwinder soils close to a super-heated rock face, in one of the best recent vintages. Aged in large French and American barrels and large French oak vats. Lifted red and black fruit with savoury notes before a well-structured palate of damson, blueberry, spice and smoky hints, with that definitive Similkameen mineral core and a lengthy finish all wrapped in firm but approachable tannins. Excellent value. (TP) MOON CURSER BORDER VINES 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($25.99)

The winery’s original Bordeaux-style offering blends mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (71%) with Petit Verdot (16%), Malbec (7%), Carmenere (4%) and Cabernet Franc (2%). Upfront red and black fruit with floral notes precede wild blackberry, raspberry and cassis supported by restrained, mainly neutral, oak and balanced acidity through the close. (TP) LAUGHING STOCK VINEYARDS BLIND TRUST 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($28.99)

Blend cunningly concealed under the

capsule foil. Cedary, spicy, tobacco and blackcurrant bouquet. Medium- to full-bodied. Dry, richly extracted flavours of black fruits and currants with harmonious oak and good grip on the finish to give structure to the fruit. (TA) MOON CURSER MALBEC 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($30.99)

Hand picked and hand sorted, not crushed. From Osoyoos East Bench, south-west facing slope. Aromas of red and blue fruit with wild briar notes before a vibrant and juicy entry underpinned by bright acidity through a mouth-filling palate. Damson, cassis and blueberry, supported by approachable and well-integrated tannins. (TP) HONSBERGER ESTATE CABERNET FRANC 2017, NIAGARA ($32)

Deep ruby in colour. Cedary, licorice and blackberry bouquet. Medium-bodied, dry, richly extracted, lightly smoky and earthy. Black fruit flavours, great structure and firm with ripe tannins. (TA) CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES CABERNET SAUVIGNON ST. DAVID’S BENCH VINEYARD 2016, NIAGARA ($34.95)

Cedary, blackcurrant-jam nose with oak spice. Medium-bodied, savoury, red- and blackcurrant flavours with lively acidity and grainy tannins. (TA) FRANCE CHÂTEAU TOUR ST. BONNET 2012, AOC MÉDOC ($23)

Forward nose of cherry, chocolate-raisins and vanilla accented with mint and other herbs. A little thin on the palate, mostly tasting of raspberry jam, with tannins still high and prominent heat from the alcohol. Will keep another year or two, maybe the tannins will settle down. (RL)* ITALY AZIENDA AGRICOLA LE RAGNAIE TRONCONE 2016, TOSCANA ROSSO IGT ($20)

100% Sangiovese. Savoury with firm tannins and bright aromas of red cherries, cranberries with earthy notes underneath that add some depth and soul. Bright acidity and light on its feet despite the vineyard being located in Southern Tuscany, just under the 600m limit decreed

for the production of Brunello di Montalcino. Pizza Margherita, please. (MB) G.D. VAJRA MONTERUSTICO 2016, ROSSO PIEMONTE DOC ($22.50)

The three typical suspects of Piedmont, Dolcetto (40%), Barbera (40%) and Nebbiolo (20%), are behind this savoury red. Expressive aromas of cured meat, bright red plum, black liquorice and red cherry. Just as seductive on the palate with bright acidity, medium chewy tannins and a moderate finish. Equally delicious with cured meat as with steak tartare. (MB) CASTELLO VICCHIOMAGGIO AGOSTINO PETRI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2015, TUSCANY ($29.95)

Deep ruby in colour. Cedary, cigar box, cherry nose with a floral top note. Medium-bodied, ripe black-cherry flavour expands on the palate with lively acidity. Well balanced and delicious. (TA) PODERI ROSET VERDUNO PELAVERGA 2018, PIEDMONT ($30)

Light bodied and light in colour, but super-expressive aromas and flavours of roses, blood orange, spice and tart red cherries. Juicy, bright, fresh and captivating. Absolutely delicious. (GB) FRANCE CAVE DE TAIN GRAND CLASSIQUE 2017, CROZES-HERMITAGE AOC ($21)

well the new wave of reds in McLaren Vale that are more about the purity of fruit than a blockbuster to impress. Serve slightly chilled. Soul warming. (MB) ITALY COLLE MANORA BARBERA MONFERRATO PAIS 2018, PIEDMONT ($25)

Lifted, fresh and fruity, supple and silky showing bright red cherry, spice and fresh herbs. Simple without being simplistic. Chill slightly and quaff. (GB)

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA MOON CURSER TOURIGA NAÇIONAL 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($39.99)

Forward notes of red and black fruit, vanilla and pepper before a plush entry and a well-structured palate with layers of ripe mulberry, anise and herbal hints with lingering spice and black pepper notes. (TP) BLACK HILLS SYRAH 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($40)

Upfront red and black fruit with some meaty and peppery hints introduce a plush but focused palate of raspberry, mulberry, mocha and anise, balanced by well-integrated tannins and fresh acidity that plays through the finish. (TP)

This wine has all of the approachable and typical qualities of a youthful Syrah in Crozes-Hermitage. Beautiful balance between fresh acid, moderate elegant tannins and bright notes of red plum, violet and white pepper. Medium body and finish. Dangerously easy to drink and a good partner for hanger steak or duck confit. Great value. (MB)

HONSBERGER ESTATE CABERNET FRANC RESERVE 2016, NIAGARA ($55)

RECOMMENDED

Medium body with silky texture, medium fine-grained tannins and fresh acid with deep notes of wild strawberries, dried sage, dark cherries and a hint of vanilla. Reminiscent of a premium Pinot Noir from Central Otago. Very well made. A natural with turkey. (MB)

AUSTRALIA ULITHORNE WINES DONA GSM 2016, MCLAREN VALE ($24.95)

Ripe dark and red fruit but without being jammy. Notes of wild strawberries, raspberries and plum with moderate acid, supple tannins and silky texture. Full body with moderate finish. Represents

Cedary, spicy, lightly floral cigar box nose of ripe black plums. Medium-bodied, dry, savoury, plum and redcurrant flavours; well-balanced and lingering, with supple tannins. (TA)

CEDARCREEK ESTATE WINERY PLATINUM BLOCK 2 PINOT NOIR 2016, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($68)

PHANTOM CREEK CUVÉE 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($100)

From one of the best in a string of good

BEST OF 2019 31

BUYING GUIDE recent vintages. A blend of Cabernet Sauv (38%), Petit Verdot (26%), Malbec (15%), Syrah (8%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Merlot (5%), planted by Richard Cleave in 1996 in the Phantom Creek Vineyard on Black Sage Bench. 18 months in 85% new French oak. Lifted red and black fruit with some toasty notes, a plush entry, supple and interwoven with cherry, mulberry, spice and cassis notes seamlessly wrapped in well-integrated tannins. (TP) FRANCE CHATEAU PIBRAN 2014, AC PAUILLAC ($50)

Very deep garnet. Aromas of crushed blackberries, raspberries and cherries with some dusty oak. Lots more blackberry and blackcurrant on the palate, with juicy acidity and soft tannins. Classy wine. Drink to 2020. (RL)* ITALY CRIVELLI RUCHÈ DI CASTAGNOLE 2018, PIEDMONT ($44)

Great texture, balance and length. Aromatic with a slight tart red fruit with an underlying ripeness. Approachable but with loads of character and flavour and long, juicy finish. (GB) ELENA WALCH PINOT NOIR LUDWIG 2017, ALTO ADIGE ($55)

Bright ruby with alluring aromas of cherry and spice. Refined and very juicy with elegant tannins and a penetrating quality to the red berry and mineral flavours. Very well done. (GB) PODERI ROSET BAROLO MONVIGLIERO 2013, PIEDMONT ($85)

Layered, structured, elegant, fresh and 32 BEST OF 2019

delicately powerful, all the elements in balance. Alluring pretty aromas, red berry, orange peel and spice. Super expressive and ethereal, but with staying power. From a tiny producer that flies under the radar. Seek this one out. (GB)

RECOMMENDED FRANCE GALIUS 2016, SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU AOC ($39.25)

Full body, fresh acid and firm tannins with opulent notes of plum, cassis, cocoa and vanilla support the slightly elevated alcohol of 14%. A testament that it is still possible to find a well-made Bordeaux under $50 that offers typicity. A delicious pick for lamb lovers. (MB) DOMAINE DE TRÉVALLON 2015, IGP ALPILLES ($88.75)

I have been following this producer for decades and 2015 might be one of the best vintages I have tasted. Firm yet elegant tannins with fresh acid and complex notes of cassis, plum, dried herbs and graphite that lingers and haunts the soul. This is what I would call a perfect paradox where ripeness of fruit is balanced by tension and energy. Just outstanding. Put in your cellars for a minimum of 10 years, if you can. (MB) ITALY COLLE MANORA ALBAROSSA RAY 2016, PIEDMONT ($40)

Dark, bold and powerful. Packed with cherries, smoke, spice and wild herbs. Well balanced and brooding, but showing an incredible amount of freshness. (GB)

PODERI ROSET BAROLO 2015, PIEDMONT ($70)

Elegant, perfumed and approachable with silky tannins, slightly tart, juicy fruit, floral and spice. Alluring and beautiful. Although this will age well for several years, it is immensely enjoyable now. (GB)

SPIRITS LEGENT KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY ($45)

East meets West with this first-of-itskind bourbon that melds Kentucky distilling tradition and Japanese blending expertise. It has an amazingly forward citrus note akin to orange oil and lemon zest. Distinct floral notes (spring blossoms?), some chocolate, pine, and even herbal (cilantro, maybe?) components are also present. The more typical sultana, treacle and toasted nuts also appear. In the mouth, it is rich and super smooth, with citrus fruit (orange peel again), mild spice, and suggestions of fruitcake and caramel. Long and beautifully structured, belying its 47% AVB octane. A very unique addition to the bourbon world. (BTW, pronounced lee-gent.) (TS)

BEER & CIDER MUDDY YORK HABERDASHER HEFEWEIZEN, ONTARIO ($2.65/355 ML)

From East York in Toronto, the Hefeweizen took gold at the recent Ontario Brewing Awards, and no wonder. Soft in

texture, with a lightly creamy wheat body. Neither the banana nor clove derived from fermentation overwhelm this beer. The transition on the palate from sweetness to a small wheaty acid tang on the finish lends refreshment. (JSJ) TOOTH & NAIL DISCRETION BIÈRE DE TABLE, ONTARIO ($2.75/355 ML)

Discretion refers here to the lower alcohol for the style. At 3.5%, it is a light quencher that features raspberry and hibiscus above a small body of arrowroot biscuit. The Belgian yeast character supports bright carbonation and a small amount of phenolic character on the back end. Deceptively complex for a low alcohol beer. (JSJ) TOOTH & NAIL VIM & VIGOR, ONTARIO ($2.75/355 ML)

Vim & Vigor is the reigning champion of Ontario pilsners and worth a revisit here. While the individual hallmarks of a pilsner (floral hop top notes, healthy nearly powdery barley character, and peppery bitterness on the back end) are all present, its popularity is down to the progression of flavours and textures. It is sweet to bitter to dry in rapid-fire succession and leaves the drinker wanting more. (JSJ) ROYAL CITY EXHIBITION IPA, ONTARIO ($2.99/473 ML)

The enormous aromas of mango, pine and pineapple here are a reminder that the current trend for massively hazy IPA with little bitterness has not superseded all previous examples. The fruitiness emerges on the palate as passion fruit with a touch of caramelization, and the finish is short enough to make another sip appealing. An exemplary IPA and a real accomplishment for Royal City. (JSJ) SKELETON CREW BREWING COMPANY KNUCKLEBONE IPA, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)

Beer dates like fashion. Knucklebone IPA is no exception: it comes across as an American IPA of the first decade of this century. Although it is bracingly bitter, the malt and hops are in comparative balance here with a small amount of stone fruit coming out on top of the traditional pine and grapefruit. The malt runs through light caramel to toffee and sultana. Sometimes instead of reinventing the wheel, you only need to reintroduce it. (JSJ)

MATRON YEASAYER LAGERBIER, ONTARIO ($3.25/355 ML)

Founded by ex-Stone City staff, Matron has launched with only two offerings, but that fits into their ethos of making a finite amount of product. Yeasayer is nearly perfectly balanced between the pepper, white flowers and light citrus of the hop character and the sweetness of grain on the palate. A traditional take on the Helles for this standout start-up in Bloomfield, Ontario. (JSJ) BEYOND THE PALE YUMMY, ONTARIO ($4.00/473 ML)

Founded early in the explosion of craft breweries in Ontario, Beyond The Pale has come into their own in the last several years, and Yummy is a great example of their work. The aromas in this hazy IPA are prominent white grapefruit and lime, reminiscent of a Paloma cocktail garnished with a wedge of pineapple. Dry without astringency and bitter enough to remind you it is an IPA after all. (JSJ) PANIZA PILSNER, ONTARIO ($5/330 ML)

It has been a whirlwind of a year for Marcelo Paniza, who won the Henderson Beer Cup for his homebrew and a gold medal at the Canadian Brewing Awards for his Bock. This traditional German Pilsner with Northern Brewer and Saaz hops is his first commercial venture. At 5%, the balance falls just slightly to peppery bitterness. A promising sophomore effort. (JSJ) MEANTIME LONDON IPA, UNITED KINGDOM ($6/330 ML)

At a period when there are a dearth of traditional English IPAs being produced, the fuggle and golding hop character is reassuringly like a late summer hedgerow, with herbal and citric flourishes in the aroma and on the palate. In combination with fruity, nutty malts, it is a fine reminder of the inspiration for the modern craft boom. (JSJ) STONE CITY ALES ULTRA FINE DAY, ONTARIO ($6.00/500 ML)

Trend is king and Stone City Ales have been branching out into lager styles over the last few years. This take on a Helles lager features Mandarina Bavaria and Sladek, newer European hops varieties. The aroma features lime leaf, green

× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/

pepper flesh and chrysanthemum with candied orange emerging on the palate as bitterness and a peachy, floral retro-nasal interest. Exuberant for the style. (JSJ) BLOOD BROTHERS WHITE LIES RIESLING, ONTARIO ($8.00/500 ML)

There is infrequently anything subtle about Blood Brothers, from the voodoo-inspired taproom down to the individual flavour profiles of their beers. White Lies is no exception, leaning hard into sourness. The acidity here is bolstered by a lemon-lime hop character and slightly undercuts the sweetness of the Riesling grapes. On the whole, though, this is a fine afternoon refresher or aperitif. (JSJ) GROVE BREWHOUSE WESTCOTT CREAM ALE, ONTARIO ($13.27/4-PACK)

As a style featuring hybrid fermentation, Cream Ale tends to feature oddball esters. Grove’s is no exception. The nose is somewhere between peach and green strawberry, and the robust, slightly husky grain character provides a slightly rustic finish with a retro-nasal hint of cucumber. Reminiscent of Genesee, the exemplar of the style. (JSJ) WELLINGTON BREWERY UVB 76 NIKITA, ONTARIO ($4/355 ML)

Named for a Russian signal station, this radio sweetheart is an Imperial Stout by way of the freezer aisle: Strictly neapolitan. The nose is madagascar vanilla, dehydrated strawberry and hershey syrup, but the body is milkshake thick, leaning into bitter dark chocolate and a bourbon-barrel sweetness that lingers slightly longer than it would take that ice cream to melt. As novelty Russian Imperials go, this one is a winner. (JSJ) FOLLY BREWING COMPANY FRESH MONEY, ONTARIO ($6/500 ML)

Of late, Folly has helped pioneer Kveik (individual strains of Norwegian farmhouse ale yeast) in the Canadian market. Fresh Money uses the Arset blend, creating fruity esters in the aroma somewhere between windfall pear and jackfruit. The body is crisp and clean, with a gentle grain character that takes a backseat to the fruitiness. A rounded and practical application of an esoteric Norwegian treatment. (JSJ) BEST OF 2019 33

AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER

IT WAS A WINE LOVER’S DREAM. Imagine you are sitting

in brightly lit hall at a table covered in a white cloth, adorned with six pristine Zwiesel Kristallglas [German crystal glasses — Ed.], a large bottle of sparkling water, a spittoon and a full bread basket. You peruse a book of 425 wines, divided into flights of six. You write the number of the ones you wish to taste on a slip of paper and hold it in the air. An attractive server in a grey t-shirt and an ankle-length brown apron whisks away your sheet and returns in seconds with a crate of six wines. The server pours your samples. You swirl, sniff, taste, spit and write your notes. Then back to the list to select your next flight. You repeat the process many times over three days, if you can stay the course. This oenological nirvana happens at the annual sneak preview tasting of new VDP Grosses Gewächs 2018 vintage in Wiesbaden, Germany. Grosses Gewächs refers to the highest classification level for dry wines from member wineries of the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) and the Bernkasteler Ring. Think of this in terms of France’s Grand Cru appellation for wines that taste like dry Spätlese and dry Auslese. Basically, the term translates as great growths. I was one of 205 fortunate wine scribes and sommeliers at the event in August. I managed to sample 211 wines over the two days I participated. I spent my first day tasting Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) from Württemburg, Ahr, Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Baden, and my second sampling Riesling from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Rheingau, Mittelrhein, Nahe, Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Baden and Franken. 34 BEST OF 2019

I also really enjoyed a 2018 Weisser Burgunder (the German name for Pinot Blanc) produced by Bernard Pawis in Freyberg, Saale-Unstrut — a region in former East Germany. I scored it 90 points. Six Baden Chardonnay— a mix of 2017 and 2018 vintages — were also on offer, five of which I gave 89 points. At 91 points, my top Baden Chardonnay was Wöhrle Kronenbült Gottsacker Chardonnay. (Unfortunately, I don’t know the vintage.) My takeaway from this amazing tasting experience is that 2018 was a remarkably fine vintage in Germany. Growers in the Ahr region (where I think the best Spätburgunder comes from) can count on one hand the number of rainy days during the 2018 growing season. My top-scoring Ahr producers at the event were J.J. Adenauer, Meyer-Näkel and Jean Stodden. From Baden, Bernard Huber rules with Weingut Bercher, Weingut Salvey comes a close second. From the Rheingau, I liked Georg Müller Stiftung. 2018 produced an extraordinarily fine Riesling vintage, particularly in the Mosel, Rheingau, Mittelrhein Nahe regions, with ripe and tasty wines from Rheinhessen and the Pfalz as well. Growers said the grapes came into the cellars in “picture perfect” conditions. There were too many great Riesling producers to name, but my top-scoring Mosel producers were Heymann-Lowenstein, Clemens Busch, S.A Prum, Dr. Loosen, Fritz Haag, Geheimrat J. Wegeler and Schloss Vollrads. From the Nahe Kruger Rumpf and Schossgut Diel. From the Pfalz, Knipster, Philipp Kuhn and Rings, and from Baden, Weingut Seeger. It is a pity that only a limited selection of German wines reach the shores of our government-controlled provinces. But if you ever find yourself in Wiesbaden … × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM

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