Quench September 2019

River XADto Vine DEAKIN IN FOLDER

Deakin Estate wines are crafted from family owned vineyards that lie in the Murray Darling region of Australia. Here, the river weaves across the land, bringing life to our vines. Rich, fertile soils and a warm, sunny climate create a perfect environment for growing quality fruit to make these delicious wines.

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SEPTEMBER 2019 10

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THE QUENCH ULTIMATE BEER AND FOOD GUIDE JORDAN ST. JOHN

There are some key elements that you should consider when making the perfect match.

NCH 23

PIVOT

TIM PAWSEY

Climate change is a big part of winery planning these days. How are Canadian producers dealing with it?

COLUMNS

13 | CÔT GURVINDER BHATIA

6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

Introducing [drum roll please] the cradle of Malbec.

How about a little mushuroom with that cocktail?

16 | EMERALD, TOPAZ AND JADE TOD STEWART

8 | MUST TRY BRIE DEMA Exploring the wine of Serbia.

9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC Making the best out of the West bank.

27 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.

34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER What is the best wine I’ve ever tasted? Let me tell you.

The Florida Keys have become a foodie mecca.

20 | WHEN GRAPES WITHER KONRAD EJBICH Why are Canadian wineries drying their grapes?

26 | A CHOCOLATE BAR A DAY? DANIEL YETMAN Do you deprive yourself of chocolate because you think it’s junk food? Stop that immediately!

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SEPTEMBER 2019 3

LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR

WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR

Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR

Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS

Tony Aspler, Christine Sismondo, Robin LeBlanc, Brie Dema CONTRIBUTORS

Jordan St. John, Konrad Ejbich, Tim Pawsey, Daniel Yetman

WINE SHOULD BE ABLE TO TELL THE STORY OF WHERE IT IS FROM: THE PEOPLE, LANDSCAPE, CULTURE AND HISTORY OF ITS HOME. The recent Austrian Wine

Summit, Vineyard Interfaces in the Heart of Europe, could not have better exemplified this idea. The summit focused on some of the best vineyards on Austria’s eastern borders, which touch the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary and Slovenia. They were established after the First World War, at the start of the official dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, often dividing excellent vineyard sites (as well as farms and families) into separate countries. At that time, adversarial governing regimes politically divided and controlled regions for many decades, impacting the development of the wine industry for the next century. For example, wineries in the former Czechoslovakia were nationalized under communism (1948 — 1989) and the wine industry ceased to develop until after the fall of the regime. At the summit, attendees visited Austrian winegrowing regions at the borders, accompanied by historians and university professors, who gave insight into the historical development of each region. We sat at the Grenztisch, a border table located in Austria and Slovenia. The border was guarded until the 1990s, and the Grenztisch, established in 2013, represents a desire to reconnect. In Burgenland, we walked along the Bridge at Andau, which represented one of the last possibilities of escaping Hungary during the rise of the Iron Curtain. Tens of thousands fled across the bridge in 1956 before it was sealed off with barbed wire, mines and armed guards. According to Willi Klinger, managing director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, the objective of the summit was “to help transform Austria’s borders into vineyard interfaces,” reinforcing the notion that wine and food can unite. Caring about where your wine is from and understanding the journey of the people involved in its production should not detract from your enjoyment of drinking wine. On the contrary, it should enhance your appreciation for what is in the glass.

4 SEPTEMBER 2019

TASTERS

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GRAND PRE IN FOLDER Tidal Bay The perfect complement to Nova Scotia seafood or to share with friends.

GRANDPREWINES.COM

LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

FUNGUS AMONG US The fall mushroom season is upon us and the foragers are already out in force looking for chanterelles, oysters, puffballs and, the most prized of all, hens of the woods. Most of these wild mushrooms go to chefs for celebratory mushroom dinners, but an increasing number are now used by bar folk to create craft cocktails and spirits. Foraged chaga mushrooms, for example, are used in Chaga Rum, Newfoundland Distillery’s latest rum release, and as a botanical in Hidden Temple gin, made at Toronto’s Nickle Nine Distillery. The O’Dwyer Distillery in Gaspé created its Gin Radoune using chanterelles, matsutake and honey mushrooms. Are these mushroom-infused alcohols any good? Mushroom-haters won’t think so, but I certainly do. I really appreciate the earthy, truffle and umami notes that fungi add to spirits. Curious about how easy it would be to make my own mushroom infusions at home, I asked head bartender Grant Sceney at the Botanist restaurant in Vancouver, home to one of the country’s most famous mushroom cocktails Candy Cap Magic. “I don’t think mushrooms are difficult to work with. Treat them as you would when cooking; the difference being that you’re using alcohol to extract the flavour. I wouldn’t use fresh mushrooms; alcohol is a strong compound and moisture could react badly with it,” Sceney said, drawing from his experience making concoctions like citrus infusions, which typically work better with dried fruit than fresh. The bartender also said that the time needed to infuse mushroom in alcohol varies, but three days is a good rule of thumb. And you should taste often to see how the flavours unfold. So, why choose to make mushroom-infused alcohol? After all, many people would be put off by the idea — and not just those who don’t like mushrooms. “When Nikki Bayley, the drinks writer here on the West Coast, came in about six months ago, she said, ‘I never used to have to mention my allergy to bartenders. But now I do because it’s mushrooms.’” “So, the concept is new, and not everyone loves it,” he says. “But bartenders are increasingly exploring ingredients associated with the culinary world, especially those with funky and unique flavour profiles.” Given Gin Radoune’s success, we can surely expect to see many more unexpected ingredients in our drinks soon. 6 SEPTEMBER 2019

CANDY CAP MAGIC

2 oz candy cap mushroominfused Lot 40 whisky* 1 oz sweet vermouth 1/3 oz root beer cordial** 2 dashes Bittered Sling Kensington Bitters

In a mixing glass, stir all ingredients together over ice. Strain and serve neat in a small chilled rocks glass. * It may be difficult to track down candy cap mushrooms (found on the West Coast of Canada) outside the Pacific Northwest. If unavailable, add 50 g of a local wild mushroom with an esoteric flavour profile to a 750 ml bottle of Lot 40 and let steep for three days. The infusion time will vary for different mushrooms, so taste daily until infused. ** Combine 500 ml water, 300 g of brown sugar, 200 ml maple syrup, 8 g of sassafras, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 star anise and 1 vanilla pod in a pot and bring to a near boil. Remove from heat and let stand for 20 minutes. Strain into bottle and refrigerate. A commercial root beer syrup such as Torani would also work. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES

100% Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

THE Cab to put on your table, period.

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CHARLES SMITH IN FOLDER

“

Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith

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MUST TRY BRIE DEMA

LIKE FINDING A NEW FRIEND “THE PERFECT WINE PAIRING FOR YOUR MAIN COURSE of roast pork this

evening would be Prokupac from the Župa sub-region of Serbia” is not a phrase that most, if any, Canadian somms are saying these days. But I’m hoping this might someday change. After exploring the wine regions of Serbia, one of the most exciting takeaways was the personal discovery of the indigenous red grape Prokupac, which is pronounced Pro-ku-patz with the “r” lightly rolled. While it was the country’s most planted red grape in the late 19th century, it sank out of favour and was uprooted for international varieties or planted on fertile flatlands and churned out as a dull red table blend or sweet rosé. But the world loves a comeback kid, and Prokupac is sitting in the corner of the ring with a towel draped around its shoulders, ready for a third round. Like many grapes, one of its downfalls is that it can be very vigorous and overproductive — planting on fertile soils will give you lots of sugar but little 8 SEPTEMBER 2019

else. It can also give green and astringent tannins when unripe. This tells us that plantings should stick to the warmer slopes and rockier soils of the foothills of central Serbia and avoid the more fertile flatlands of Vojvodina in the north. The two top regions for Prokupac in my opinion are Šumadija, which is about an hour south of Belgrade and encompasses Oplenac, and its hillier, often higher in elevation neighbour to the south, Morave, which contains the Župa Valley. When planted in these areas, and with attention to yield restriction, vine age and pruning regime, Prokupac produces wines with complexity and grace. While never too deep in colour, the nose is layered with red and black fruit, oftentimes floral or herbal. A backbone of acidity is the benchmark of its structure and the best winemakers are avoiding too much oak. Prokupac is often vinified solo, which reminds me more of Cabernet Franc from the Loire, but will sometimes have other grapes blended in to give a wine more density and power.

BRAĆA RAJKOVIĆ PRINCE PROKUPAC 2017, ŽUPA VALLEY ($16)

This wine is 90% Prokupac, with the remainder being Merlot. Aromas abound with red cherry, wild-grown rosemary, lilac and subtle smokiness. Medium-bodied and very well balanced, though it finishes quite fresh. After a drive up into the hills to see the vineyard (12 ha total are owned by Rajković), I can see why: the site faces the late fall sun but the diurnal swing is quite pronounced, I’m told. Outstanding wines are made by these two brothers. IVANOVIC PROKUPAC 2017, ŽUPA VALLEY ($19)

Contains 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which adds a deeper hue in the glass. The aromas are led by both red and black cherries, savoury herbs, a light turned earthy note and a warmth of spice from Serbian oak. The palate is harmonious, with all things in their place. Showy and fleshier than some Prokupac, but still vibrant. This is from the western side of the Župa Valley near the city of Aleksandrovac. ×

LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

MAKING THE BEST OUT OF THE WEST BANK AFTER WATCHING THE NEWS, YOU MIGHT THINK THAT THERE WAS NOWHERE SAFE, LET ALONE WORTH VISITING, IN THE WEST BANK AREA OF THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES, APART FROM BETHLEHEM. I believe that is a misconcep-

tion that should be fixed. In reality, the region is home to incredible food, beautiful sights and, perhaps surprisingly, a beer scene built on the foundations of good times and community. Birzeit Brewery, better known as Shepherds (sic) Beer, is a small brewery located in the small town of Birzeit to the north of Ramallah that has been open since 2015. The brewery’s CEO and founder Alaa Sayej was very interested in making alcohol. He had experience distilling vodka and arak — a well-known regional drink. When he returned the West Bank after completing his master’s degree in finance in Preston, England, and failed to find a suitable career opportunity, his interest turned to beer making and he decided to start a brewery. Despite Sayej’s love for English beer, Shepherds Beer is heavily inspired by the Czech breweries he and his younger brother, the brewmaster, enjoyed and learned from. Their flagship beer is a crisp and relatively sweet Czech pilsner, but their weiss summer beer, caramel-like amber ale and chocolatey sweet stout are wonderful additions. Rafat Houary is a woodworker in a suburb of Bethlehem whose story is a familiar one for many small breweries in Canada. Inspired by American beers, Houary set out to start

Wise Men Choice Beer. Thanks to a small loan, Houary was able to purchase and install brewing equipment in the basement of his home. Houary’s production output may be small, but his use of unique spices sets his beers apart from those of the other breweries in the West Bank. For instance, the pale ale has a hint of sage in it. While the possibility of visiting the brewery can be erratic due to security concerns, local bars including the piano bar of the Banksy-owned Walled Off Hotel have been known to serve his beers. The story of Taybeh Brewing Co., the oldest brewery in the Middle East, is definitely an interesting one. Brothers Nadim and David Khoury were no strangers to good drink having grown up alongside a family-run a liquor store in Brookline, Massachusetts. Nadim began homebrewing in his college dorm and went on to study brewing at UC Davis in California. In 1994, shortly after the signing of the Oslo Accord, the pair moved back to their home country of Palestine to be with their family. Thinking that there would be peace at last, they started their own brewery. Interestingly, Yasser Arafat was an early (non-drinking) supporter. The brewery is still proudly family-run but has since become a powerhouse. It now exports to 18 countries, supports local businesses and charities, and organizes an Oktoberfest celebration that welcomes over 6,000 party-goers! × SEPTEMBER 2019 9

THE QUENCH ULTIMATE BEER AND FOOD GUIDE by Jordan St. John

Starting out with beer and food pairing can be daunting. After all, most Quench readers will be more familiar with pairing wine. Whether you’re a novice or you’ve reached the point where selecting a bottle to go with your meal is second nature, it’s important to note some differences between the beverages and establish some ground rules in order to get the best possible results.

Wine tends to be an expression of the terroir of a vineyard, but beer is less straightforward in the way it converts ingredients into flavour. In a substantial way, beer is a lot more like the dish you’re cooking. You might be working with a recipe, but if you’re a talented home cook, you’re probably choosing ingredients for a specific purpose. Just like your meal, beer is ingredient and recipe driven; it’s also a technological product. Over centuries, as innovations in malting, hop breeding and yeast cultivating have come about, the variety of beer available has become more diverse. Even so, there are still some things that all beers have in common.

MALT CHARACTER

By definition, beer is made of grain: it’s the source of all the sugar for fermentation. As a result, beer has been called liquid bread. Think of the variety of bread that exists. From the lightest bao bun to the darkest pumpernickel, all of that character is contained within beer. The most 10 SEPTEMBER 2019

common grain used is barley, but the way the grain is kilned is what contibutes the difference in flavour and colour. Picture a toaster. On the lowest setting (let’s call it “one”), you’re going to get the lightest browning possible. It’s going to let the flavour of the grain shine through. However, if you turn the dial up to five, you’re also changing the end result. You’re going to get something a little darker with nutty flavour and a toasty, golden brown crunch. If you crank the dial as far as it goes, you’re going to get burnt edges and set off the smoke detector. Kilning malt and toasting bread create a lot of the same flavours, and the colour of your beer is a good predictor of the “weight” of the beverage in front of you. Colour and flavour are a result of the grist used, and typically the darker malts with more assertive flavours make up a minority of that mixture. The caramelization and Maillard browning that take place during malting take place in cooking as well. Consider that pub classic, fish and chips. Well, everything going on there in

terms of cooking is deep-fried Maillard reaction, from the breading on the fish to the crispness of the chips. Is it any wonder that Pale Ale and Vienna Lager are standard choices because they match the weight of perfectly fried golden brown goodness? It’s a complementary pairing.

ACIDITY

By definition, all beer is acidic. In fact, the scale by which we measure acidity was invented by the Carlsberg Laboratory, the biochemical wing of Denmark’s most famous brewery. At the beginning of the brewing process, as soon as malt is added to the mash tun, we’re at 5.5 pH. The finished product is lower than that. A bog standard pint of lager (the kind your dad drank) sits a little lower than 5 pH, but a stout with a lot of dark malt may be closer to 4 pH. The newer varieties of North American mixed fermentation beers use lactobacillus to lower their pH into the range of grapefruit and lemon juice, around 3.

It’s a wide palette from which to paint, and one that affords a lot of opportunity to play. A standard pairing for oysters has always been a Dry Irish Stout like Guinness because of the subtle tangy acidity that exists beneath the cover of roast barley. Or consider a modern mixed-fermentation beer, like Bellwoods’ Jelly King or Sawdust City’s Coriolis Effect Berliner Weisse. Their acidity provides contrast to the deeply saline liquor of the oysters and also provides that spritzy squeeze of citrus, saving you the necessity of preparing garnishes. (Horseradish is, as always, a personal choice.)

CARBONATION

You’d be hard pressed to find a beer that isn’t at least marginally carbonated; it’s one of the natural outcomes of the fermentation process along with alcohol. Of course, there are outliers but, even with English-style Ales on cask service, the proper amount of carbonation is an important feature. The carbonation amount is highly variable between different styles of beer. The scale runs from still, at about one volume of CO2, to approximately four volumes in bottle-reconditioned German and Belgian styles. While this falls slightly short of the typical 6.5 volumes in sparkling wines, it does present a spectrum of carbonation across the entire range of beer styles. Intense carbonation certainly has the ability to cut through fat and refresh the palate between bites, but more subtlety may be called for in lighter dishes. Any canapé with a thick, fatty, unctuous texture can be refreshed by a high-carbonation beer. Try a chicken liver terrine or SEPTEMBER 2019 11

just about any chèvre appetizer alongside that classic Belgian Golden Ale, Duvel, but be careful when pouring it. Carbonation means the potential for a fluffy, rocky head.

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If you’re going to think about pairing beer with food, it helps to know a little bit about hops. For our purposes, we’re going to think about them as ingredients in cooking. The female flower of the hop plant looks a little like an artichoke, and there’s a similarity: all of the useful material is at the bottom of each leaf. What we’re looking for from hops is the resin hidden at the base of each leaf. That resin contains essential oils and the potential for bitterness. When brewers are looking for bitterness, they add hops early in the process of brewing, at the beginning of the boil. It takes 60 minutes for hops to isomerize, or give up that bitterness. It’s a little like adding dried herbs at the beginning of making a stew: they’re creating a base layer of flavour. If you’re looking at a bottle or can, you might see the label “IBU.” International Bitterness Units are a measure of how bitter something is, and 100 is the top end of the scale for human perception. Over the last decade, brewers have shied away from bitterness, choosing instead to accentuate the essential oils in hops. Now they’re looking for aromatic properties, which is like finishing a dish with fresh herbs for an enhanced sensory experience. The myrcene and humulene that make up the essential oils in hop cones tend to break down into recognizable scents that have chemical commonality with herbs, spices, citrus and tropical fruits. In pairing, this is typically a secondary consideration, but these aromatic compounds can also fill out a flavour profile if deployed properly. Let’s revisit the fish and chips from earlier. How are you going to dress that? We know that there’s going to be a commonality with Pale Ale from the malt and cooking process. If it’s an English Pale Ale, the beer is going to be moderately bitter and probably use English hops, which means the aromas will be herbal and floral, with a hint of hedgerow and citrus. Let’s borrow some mayonnaise from the Belgians across the channel and load it up with thyme and tarragon.

You’ve matched the fried elements of the dish with malt depth, the beer is probably just acidic and bitter enough to cut some of the fat, and bubbly enough to lift it off the palate. Above that, you’ve got interplay between the herbs and hops, creating a fuller flavour profile beyond basic considerations. You want something lighter? Ditch the chips and throw that fish in a griddled tortilla with some red onion, slaw, guacamole and a little jalapeno. The modern American Pale Ale has a lighter malt character and an entirely different set of aromas. Citrus, stone fruit and tropical characters are there waiting to play. The carbonation is still going to lift the guac and fried fish from the palate, but the bitterness will make the red onion seem sweeter, and the hops will make the pyrazine in the pepper seem peachy.

ESTERS AND PHENOLS

Some of the by-products of fermentation are aromatic esters and phenols. Esters are fruity and, depending on the yeast you’re using, you can get banana, red apple, pear or even pineapple. Phenols are spicy, and occur mostly in Belgian and German ales. You might get clove, allspice, vanilla or bubblegum aromas. In a yeast-driven beer like a Hefeweizen or an Abbey-style Ale, they’re going to be right up front. Let’s see if we can put all of this together with something really complex: Chicken Korma. There’s a lot going on: the protein is light, but the sauce is anything but. There’s coconut milk and a plethora of spices, including garam masala, curry powder, coriander, cinnamon, cardamom and cumin. So, you need something that can stand up to the intensity of the dish. I would go with Belgium’s De Ranke XX Bitter. It has everything you need in a pairing functionally and flavourfully. The bright carbonation will lift that coconut milk and refresh between bites, while the Belgian yeast character will complement and flesh out the variety of spices in the curry even as the bitterness cuts the sweetness on the palate. Both the beer and the dish will make the other more complete, providing a purpose for each element and a better experience for the diner. The capability of beer for pairing with food is immense, and half of the fun is testing out theories. Armed with these basic concepts, you should be equipped to get in the kitchen and mix it up. ×

by Gurvinder Bhatia

CÔT SOMEONE COULD BE FORGIVEN FOR BELIEVING THAT MALBEC ORIGINATED IN ARGENTINA. The South American

country has become synonymous with the grape variety, it is the country’s most important wine and no country can match its more than 39,000 hectares planted with Malbec vines. But France is its true home and the southwest region of Cahors, often referred to as “the cradle of Malbec,” is, by all accounts, the variety’s birthplace. The grape is also, of course, one of the permitted varieties in Bordeaux. Malbec also plays a significant role in another region of France. A masterclass at the Val de Loire Millesimé, held earlier this year in Nantes, France, presented by Latvian Raimonds Tomsons — 2017’s Best Sommelier of Europe & Africa and third best sommelier in the world in 2019 — served not only as a refresher on Malbec’s history and viticultural attributes but also on its importance in the Loire Valley, specifically in the appellation of Touraine. Referred to locally in Touraine as Côt, Malbec’s presence in the Loire Valley is small — just 334 hectares — when compared with the approximately 6,000 hectares planted throughout France, of which 3,500 hectares are in Cahors, according to data provided by InterLoire.

As evidenced by the planned increase in the percentage required in a couple of the Touraine appellation’s geographic denominations, Côt’s significance in the Loire appears to be on the rise. Several producers have indicated that they recognize the grape variety’s potential in the region. It likely has to do with the style of wine being produced, which differs significantly from general wine buyers’ (consumer and industry) perceptions of the Malbec-based wines traditionally produced in Argentina and Cahors. To understand the difference, some historical background is beneficial. According to Tomsons, the first written reference to Malbec was in the 16th century, when it was referred to as Noir de Pressac. In Cahors, it was known as Auxerrois, a name still often used by local growers in the region. However, this reference can cause confusion, due to the existence of the grape Pinot Auxerrois, so Malbec is most often now used in Cahors. The grape was likely introduced to Bordeaux in late 1700s by a farmer named Monsieur Malbeck (not a coincidence). Known as the Black Wine of Cahors, the variety was quite commonly used in Bordeaux in the 18th and 19th centuries to add colour, structure and tannin to the pale clarets of the era. SEPTEMBER 2019 13

PHILIPPE AND NATHALIE CARLI, THE OWNERS OF CHÂTEAU DE FONTENAY

Malbec is an early-budding grape variety, making it susceptible to spring frosts, which led to it falling out of favour with many Bordeaux producers. The frost in Bordeaux in 1956 decimated Malbec plantings and most producers replanted with other less-susceptible varieties, such as Merlot (which is a sibling of Malbec, sharing the parent variety Magdeleine noire des Charentes as a parent, according to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes), significantly reducing Malbec’s presence in the region. Michel Pouget brought the grape from France to Argentina in the mid-1800s (the exact year varies depending on the source). This introduction marked the beginning of what would prove to be a rebirth of the variety as today Malbec and Argentina are inseparable in the eyes of the wine world. Malbec is a vigorous variety. The general characteristics tend to be elevated tannins, high alcohol and moderate acidity. The wines tend to be dry with a forward ripeness and, due to the tannin structure, can be suitable for some oak treatment (although there are still too many over-oaked Malbecs produced, in my opinion). Malbec can carry some oak well, particularly with age. The wines can be quite floral and perfumed, particularly in cooler climates. In warmer areas, the character of the fruit tends towards ripe and dark plums, cherries and even cassis. 14 SEPTEMBER 2019

Traditionally, the style of Malbec produced in Cahors was structured and concentrated, with a lot of extraction and partial new oak, with the wines meant to be held for eight to 10 years before drinking. Argentina became known for lush, forward, fruit-driven, easygoing wines. In sharp contrast, Côt from Touraine is generally bone dry, possessing freshness, a purity of crisp fruit, elegance and bright, natural acidity. Not surprisingly, many wine professionals and journalists attending the seminar led by Tomsons commented that the wines from Touraine were unlike any Malbecs they had ever previously tasted. The appellation of Touraine is associated with the middle Loire Valley, having received AOC status in 1939. White, red, rosé and sparkling can be produced under the regulations, with 59 percent of wines produced being white and 22 percent red. Within Touraine, there are five geographical denominations. Of the five, Côt plays an important role in Touraine Amboise and Touraine Chenonceaux (though only 8 percent of the grapes planted are Côt). While Côt is an early- to mid-ripening variety and the climate of the region is relatively cool, producers say the grape can ripen well and reach maturity — even more so than Cabernet Franc.

There are a variety of soils in Touraine, but flinty clay soils are the most common, along with limestone, gravel and sand. The western part of the appellation is more influenced by the Atlantic Ocean while the eastern section is more continental in climate. In general, due to the cooler climate, there exists good variation between day and night temperatures, preserving acidity and freshness while also extending the growing season, which contributes to flavour development and complexity. Tomsons led the group through a tasting of wines from different geographical denominations within the appellation of Touraine.

TOURAINE AOC

Red wines in the larger appellation are 80 percent Côt or Cabernet Franc (but must be a minimum 15 percent Côt) with the remainder being Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir or Gamay. Speaking to Côt’s increasing support from producers, these wines will have to be a minimum 50 percent Côt starting in 2030. LE ROCHER DES VIOLETTES CÔT VIEILLES VIGNES 2017, TOURAINE AOC, LOIRE VALLEY ($30)

100% Côt grown in siliceous-clay soils from 65- to 119-year-old vines, the wine spends 6 months in oak and possesses velvety fine tannins. Purple/violet in colour, bright and juicy with ample red cherry and red plum flavours and a crisp finish. Excellent. LA CHAPINIÈRE CÔT GARNON 2015, TOURAINE AOC, LOIRE VALLEY ($25)

100% Côt grown in mostly clay soils with flint. No oak, with a smoky and flinty character on the nose. Generous, firm tannins and ripe red fruit. Structured with a firm finish.

TOURAINE-CHENONCEAUX AOC

The geographical denomination of Touraine-Chenonceaux lies on both sides of the Cher River, mostly on higher slopes with a semi-continental climate. The red wines are 50–65% Côt and 35–50% Cabernet Franc and Gamay may be included. DOMAINE SAUVÈTE ANTÉA 2016, TOURAINE-CHENONCEAUX AOC, LOIRE VALLEY ($25)

A blend of 65% Côt and 35% Cabernet Franc, grown on clay and flinty soils with no oak influence, the wine shows floral notes of violets and cherry blossoms with a purity of crunchy red fruit. Ripe, grainy tannins, medium body and crisp, bright acidity on a juicy finish. CHÂTEAU DE FONTENAY L’INTRÉPIDE 2016, TOURAINECHENONCEAUX AOC, LOIRE VALLEY ($20)

Another 65% Côt and 35% Cabernet Franc blend, grown on flinty, clay and sandy soils. Juicy and herbal with fleshy tannins. Crisp, fresh and savoury with a lifted finish that makes it extremely easy to drink.

TOURAINE-AMBOISE AOC

The red wines of the geographical denomination of Touraine-Amboise may contain Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt and Gamay. Tomsons informed us that starting in June 2019, the reds must be 100% Côt, a testament to the potential that producers see in the variety. XAVIER FRISSANT LA GRIFFE D’ISA 2016, TOURAINE-AMBOISE AOC, LOIRE VALLEY ($25)

100% Côt from a single vineyard. Grown in flinty clay soils, floral and juicy with dense, compact tannins. Grainy texture, ripe, dark red fruit with spice and a bright finish. LA GRANGE TIPHAINE CÔT VIEILLES VIGNES 2016, TOURAINE-AMBOISE AOC, LOIRE VALLEY ($35)

An outstanding wine from 110-year-old vines grown in red clay soils with flint. Aged for 9 months, half in concrete and half in old French barriques. Shows finesse and depth, a purity of fresh, bright fruit, mouth-watering acidity and a long, juicy finish. 100% Côt.

The overall quality of the wines tasted was outstanding. Where Argentine Malbec can be dense, dark and lush with chewy tannins, Touraine Malbec is perfumed, bright, elegant and lifted. There does exist a global trend towards better expressing the characteristics of the variety and terroir through less extraction, lower alcohol and less new oak and Côt from the Loire is congruent with this trend. The trend towards fresher wines may explain a new generation of producers in Cahors making pure, fresher wines and the increased diversity of styles of Malbec being produced in Argentina, particularly those grown at higher altitudes, resulting in higher acidity. Given the excellent quality and the bright, lifted character of Côt from Touraine, the question becomes, what is the best way to promote these wines? Call them Malbec to take advantage of name recognition or Côt to identify with a particular place and style? Valid arguments can be made for both positions. If there existed an abundance of Côt wines from Touraine, calling them Malbec may make sense to draw attention to the wines. But the quantity of these wines produced is relatively small and the amount exported is even smaller. This suggests that the market to which the wines should be directed is much more focused. Calling the wines Côt gives them a sense of place, both geographically and stylistically. Also, one avoids the inevitable issue of someone purchasing a racy Loire Valley Malbec with the expectation that it will taste like a lush and dense Argentine Malbec. Ultimately, producers of Touraine Côt just need some sommeliers, wine writers and wine shops to champion their wines, which shouldn’t be difficult. Based on the wines I tasted, Côt has the ability to satisfy that feeling desired by any wine lover to find a new wine that leaves you genuinely excited. Fresh, racy, mouth-watering, bright, terroir driven, approachable, quaffable and versatile… what’s not to champion? Long live Côt! × SEPTEMBER 2019 15

EMERALD, TOPAZ AND JADE by Tod Stewart

From my gull’s eye view — close to 100 metres above terra firma (or perhaps, terra-not-so-firma) — the Florida Strait is a tapestry of emerald, topaz and jade. There was a bit of a brisk start to this January day (brisk enough for the locals to complain … and wear long pants). But the skies are clear, the air is clean and I’m actually attached to a parachute. So, what could go wrong?

As it turns out, nothing. My chute is attached to a line that’s attached to a boat (the “Aw Chute”) piloted by a duo from Sundance Watersports. Surrounding me as we fly shorewards are the five geographical boundaries that define the Florida Keys. In front of me, Islamorada. To the east, Key Largo. To the west, Marathon, Big Pine Key, the Lower Keys and, eventually, Key West. Below, the great blue sea. Above, the wild blue yonder. I’ve launched this aerial adventure after a hearty breakfast at the Hungry Tarpon Restaurant and Bar at the famous Robbie’s Marina. The eatery takes its name from the fact that there actually are hungry tarpon patrolling the waters under the marina dock. You can buy a bucket of baitfish to feed these aggressive (and large) fish, just beware the equally large (and possibly even more aggressive) pelicans that do their best to get between your baitfish-filled hand and the tarpon’s mouth. I’m not aware of anyone actually losing a digit to a pelican, but, like, it could happen, right? Anyway, as much fun as flying around is, my visit to the Florida Keys is about pursuits much more terrestrial — namely, discovering the plethora of food and drink the area has to offer. 16 SEPTEMBER 2019

× VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/DRINKS/US-FOOD-TOUR/ FOR OTHER FOODIE DESTINATIONS

Now, when one thinks of the Florida Keys — the approximately 360-square-kilometre archipelago of sand and coral that juts from the tip of the panhandle to within 140 kilometres of Cuba — gastronomy is probably not the first thing that comes to mind (Key lime pie aside). Ernest Hemingway house, Tennessee Williams house and the “Winter White House” all in Key West; the Seven Mile Bridge that connects the Middle Keys to the Lower Keys; the remnants of the Overseas Railway; coconut palms, Key deer, American crocodiles and Florida mangroves, sure. But gustatory pleasures? Maybe not so much. So, it was a pleasant surprise on my expedition down the length of the Keys (a thoroughly enjoyable trip that I encourage you to do yourself ) to find so much great grub, as well as craft beers and distillates. Hitting Highway 1 in Miami and heading towards Key Largo, I am feeling a tad peckish. Considering there are places in the Keys where, if you stood smack-dab in the middle of Highway 1 (not advised, BTW) and stretched out your arms, you could almost feel ocean spray on each hand, meals of fish and seafood are pretty much obligatory. I veer across the highway as a bright yellow, red and white sign catches my eye: The Fish House. A multi-award-wining restaurant, market and gift shop, the place has been a Key Largo institution since 1982. It’s been featured in pretty much every food column, magazine and TV dining show about Florida. Though (obviously) specializing in fresh-caught, local finned and shelled things, it has a menu to suit all tastes. I opt for yellowtail snapper served Matecumbe style, which means the fish is baked and accompanied by a vibrant sauce of tomato, shal-

lot, basil, capers, onion, olive oil and lemon juice. For the curious (or for those thinking that the dish sounds a bit too Mediterranean to be, well, American), Matecumbe is a Key Largo neighbourhood with a strong Spanish tradition — a tradition clearly reflected in the sauce that graces the fish. Savouring the dish, half my palate was on the Spanish coast, the other half in the American South. BEFORE LEAVING KEY LARGO, I POP INTO SUNDOWNERS, ONE IN A SERIES OF RESTAURANTS OWNED AND OPERATED BY LOCAL CELEBRITY CHEF AND AUTHOR BOBBY STOKY, WHICH STRETCH FROM MIAMI TO ISLAMORADA. As luck

would have it, Stoky is on site. He treats me to a demonstration of how to prepare a Keys favourite: crab cakes. A demonstration of how to enjoy them is unnecessary as I scarf a few of the fresh, tasty morsels back. Nothing like enjoying a bite of lunch after lunch. The flight, the drive, the food and the warm sun has made me decidedly relaxed. Relaxed enough to conclude that more time behind the wheel would not be a good (or particularly smart) thing. Instead, I’m thinking: beach, palm trees, ocean, maybe a nap, maybe a cocktail, maybe all of the above. “Toronto 1,297 [miles],” reads the sign nailed to a tree trunk jutting out from the sand at the Islander Resort. As the sun glints off the azure Atlantic and palm trees rustle in the warm breeze, I feel no homesickness. At all. “Paris 4,636 [miles],” proclaims another sign. Paris, shmaris. Don’t really feel like going there, either. Nope. Right now, I have the three “esses” of The Life Relaxed: sand, surf, sun. SEPTEMBER 2019 17

“WRITE DRUNK. EDIT SOBER,” SUGGESTS (COMMANDS?) THE MESSAGE ON THE T-SHIRT HANGING IN THE GIFT SHOP OF THE PERRY HOTEL KEY WEST AT STOCK ISLAND MARINA.

The Islander Resort — a 115-room complex laid out over about 10 hectares of pristine beachfront — turns out to be a great midway stopover on my journey to Key West. Fully transformed of late to become a Green Hotels Association member. It sports all conceivable amenities, including modern but cozy rooms, restaurants, a conference centre, two pools, a hot tub and a plethora of available activities. And sand. Lots of sand… Reclining beachside, I’m reading about the Keys. Do you know what’s killing the coral? Sun screen! WTF? Sure, it helps us stay bleached, but it apparently also helps us bleach out the coral. Not good. Know what else is a big problemo? Lionfish. They came in from Indochina and are totally screwing with the Keys marine ecosystem. Upside? You can eat ’em. Downside? You could get the jab of your life. I’ll get to that, but right now, I need some beer and spirits. And hogfish. Luckily, all are within walking distance. While there are a number of breweries and distilleries to be found in the Keys, a couple of the best are right here in Islamorada. 18 SEPTEMBER 2019

I tour and taste at the Islamorada Beer Company (opened in 2014), and the newer (2017) Islamorada Distilling. Head Brewer Stephanie Harper is a Delaware native who packed up and moved to the Keys to become a dive instructor. Seems that wetting the whistle turned out to be a better proposition than wetting the body, so she ended up in the suds rather than the sea. Stylistically speaking, the company’s beers shoot for a lighter profile. It’s a style that is in keeping with warm climates and active lifestyles. Its year-round selection ranges from the citrusy and mildly spicy Sandbar Sunday American Wheat Ale to the fuller, hoppier Channel Marker IPA. Snugged in next to the brewery, Islamorada Distilling’s compact operation crafts vodka, a couple gins and a portfolio of rums. Though all the spirits I taste are of undeniably high quality, my preference leans toward the Reserve Single Barrel Rum, which shows richness and depth while retaining an elegant character. Before heading over to Chef Michael’s for dinner, I can’t help but make a quick detour into Florida Keys Brewing Com-

pany, the Upper Keys first craft brewery. A fun, funky place, it actually has a decided stream of Canadian blood running through it. Owner/Head Brewer Craig McBay originally hailed from an area not too far from my condo in Toronto’s west end before succumbing to the lure of the Keys. McBay isn’t there the afternoon I drop in, but “Executive Hot Mess” Rio Campbell is. Together, we sample a few beers … 17 in all, if my notes serve me well (memory obviously doesn’t). Stylistically, FKBC’s range covers the gamut from the honeyand hibiscus-laced Iguana Bait to the grapefruit-infused Grapefruit To Be Alive and onwards though a dizzying selection of reds, ambers, browns, porters, wheats, sours, stouts, small batches and seasonals. I sample much. Campbell may self-title herself a “hot mess,” but I’m in danger of becoming just a mess. I need solid food. And I find some really tasty samples at Chef Michael’s. One of the few restaurants in the Florida Keys operated by its own chef, the motto on the establishment’s sign reads: “Peace, Love & Hogfish.” The hogfish is delightful. I love the flaky — almost silky — and tender white meat that feels almost ethereal on the palate. THE NEXT DAY, I HEAD THROUGH MARATHON ON MY WAY TO KEY WEST. Don’t leave Marathon without hitting Castaway

Waterfront Restaurant. Built in 1951, and purchased by John and Arlene Mirabella in 1999, it’s a seafood lovers’ nirvana. While you can have menu items cooked any way you please, I opt for raw, as I’ve always thought this was the best way to really experience the ocean-fresh flavour of ocean-fresh fish. While some of the usual suspects (snapper, salmon, tuna and the like) wind up in front of me, what really catches (ahem) my eye is the lionfish — that previously mentioned pesky non-indigenous invader from the east. They may look pretty, but the fish’s spines contain a particularly nasty venom that, in some cases, can be fatal to humans. Unless, of course, the human strikes first. Behold: lionfish sashimi. Fairly mild, slightly buttery and with a taste not unlike a cross between lobster and shrimp. Definitely a new experience for me. On the road again, heading down Highway 1 through Marathon, I detour once more (don’t panic, we will eventually get to Key West) for a quick visit to Keez Beez. The southernmost apiary in the United States is a small but growing company that tends to over 500 hives and specializes in some pretty exotic varietal honeys, including Red Mangrove, Sea Grape, Mango Blossom and Citrus. I’m guided through a tasting and explanation of the importance of sustainable practices and Keys conservation efforts by the incredibly knowledgeable, and totally engaging, Matthew Sexton. Though his “day job” is overseeing the Otherside Adventure Park and Otherside Boardsports, he’s as much a farmer as a wave shredder. The Food Network could do well giving him his own show. I am always impressed by, and envious of, people who really seem to have their sh…, um, “stuff” together. I left Sexton’s company feeling very impressed. It was now Key West or bust. “Write drunk. Edit sober,” suggests (commands?) the message on the T-shirt hanging in the gift shop of the Per-

ry Hotel Key West at Stock Island Marina. Hmmm, thinks I, does this explain why my writing is often pretty good, but my editing is somewhat sloppy? The Perry (as I’ve edited it to be) is a very cool hotel indeed. I’m given a full tour of the sleek industrial/nautical wood and metal boutique by Sales and Marketing Manager Jenny Lorenz before being shown to my modern, fully decked-out room overlooking the swimming pool and 220-slip marina — the largest deep-water berth in the Florida Keys. Of course, swimming in those deep waters — alongside the hogfish and lionfish — are other members of the underwater kingdom to marvel at and eat. Bet you’ll never guess what I chow down on at The Stoned Crab restaurant! STONE CRABS ARE INTERESTING LITTLE BEASTS. Not

only are their claws meaty, sweet and addictive, they are also perpetual … more or less. If you remove a claw from a stone crab and send it (the crab, not the claw) back to its watery home (likely making it equal parts pissed off and grateful), it will regrow the missing part. Which is exactly what the crab fishers do. Remove a claw and flip the crab back into the drink. It returns to the trap that it was caught in to channel surf Netflix (or however crabs pass the time) while the amputated appendage regenerates. That the crab returns to where it was caught suggests that it is either really stupid or that giving up a claw now and then in exchange for food and shelter is an acceptable — if somewhat lopsided — deal. In any case, the crab guys can keep the claw supply steady by alternating between one “arm” and the other, harvesting the mature claw while the other fully regenerates. Probably not a PETA-sanctioned action, but it seems to work for both parties. As the molten yellow orb shimmers on the horizon off Mallory Square, and the nightly street carnival kicks into high gear, I review my notes on my time in Key West. And I can’t believe I feel hungry again as I relive yesterday’s adventures. The Southernmost Food & Cultural Tour with Key West Food Tours introduced me to a taste of authentic Cuban cuisine at the renowned El Siboney. (“You’re missing out if you don’t try Cuban food,” my guide admonished as I shovelled melt-inyour-mouth puerco asado into mine.) I filled up on ultra-fresh, sustainably caught red grouper tacos at Bad Boy Burrito; rum cocktails at the aptly-named Rum Bar; and heavenly indulgences at the funky and famous Ricky’s Blue Heaven while chickens scampered about freely (they are a protected animal in Key West). I even joined a master class in conch fritters at Mango’s (“They should seem slightly underdone and have a chewy texture,” informed my guide … check); and finally, I took a bite (actually several) out of a Key lime pie at a pie-making demo provided by Kermit (resplendent in vibrant tip-to-toe green) of Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe. Those who live on “the rock” (the local nickname of the Florida Keys) often stay. Some, like Campbell and McBay, come down from other parts and never leave. If this story hasn’t given you at least a taste of what life on the rock has to offer, then, well, maybe I need to drink more. × SEPTEMBER 2019 19

WHEN GRAPES WITHER by Konrad Ejbich

Many people consider Amarone to be an amazing wine, whereas its progenitor, Valpolicella, they regard as just, “meh.” A simple pizza wine.

Amarone is the quintessential Italian biggie — deeply coloured, slightly browning at the edges and thickly textured with full body, high alcohol and concentrated aromas and flavours that can venture into the realm of caramelized fruit, dried cherries, stewed plums, dark chocolate, short espresso, fine leather and herbal bitters. Amarone is dry on the palate with implicit sweetness on the nose, but there’s also a rare, sweet version called Recioto, with a delicious, fruity richness that’s perfect with biscotti, cakes, panettone, bittersweet desserts like Tiramisu or rich, salty, aged cheeses. The secret to these specialty wines is an ancient technique of air-drying grapes called appassimento. Whole bunches of ripened grapes were carefully hung on hooks or laid out 20 SEPTEMBER 2019

in single layers on straw or wooden racks to allow for easy air movement all around. Windows were opened on sunny days to let cool November winds flow freely and boarded shut on rainy days. Over the months, the grapes slowly dehydrated in the breeze; the fruit began to shrivel like raisins. These concentrated berries were then pressed, fermented and aged, yielding wines of exceptional power, density and complexity — unlike any “normal” wine. In the Dark Ages, the process was abandoned and forgotten, until almost a century ago when some winemakers in Italy’s Veneto region began experimenting with air-drying. Today’s producers use every modern technical control over temperature, humidity and airflow to ensure the grapes remain healthy. Although the

ancient principles are followed, the modern way has become a clinical process. For the longest time, Magnotta winemaker Peter Rotar was the only Canadian using appassimento to improve the quality of red wines. The winery introduced its flagship brand, Enotrium, in 2001. Owner Gabe Magnotta’s idea was not to copy Amarone, since he couldn’t get the required grapes — Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella — but to create an Amarone-inspired VQA Ontario wine using the classic Bordeaux grapes, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In 2004, Len Crispino became the first producer to dedicate his entire portfolio at Foreign Affair Winery to appassimento-made wines. Folks thought he was crazy at first, but have followed in his footsteps since.

ADAMO ESTATE MERITAGE 2016, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($45)

MAGNOTTA WINERY ENOTRIUM 2015, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($59.95)

Subdued and elegant nose brings together all the elements in a harmonious bouquet of red and black fruits. Clean, smooth palate with sweet fruit flavours solidly supported by soft tannins. This one can go a decade or more.

The winery’s 15th vintage. Deep inky garnet hue with a rosy tinge on the rim. Rich, dense, ripe, dark fruit — blackberry cherry, plum — with vanilla, dark coffee and spice notes. Very tannic but in perfect harmony with the dense fruit, tight acidity and restrained alcohol at 14.9%. A terrific cellar-worthy vintage.

ARTERRA ESTATE EPOCA 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($35)

Purple-garnet colour. High-toned aromas of dark cherries and raspberry jam. Rich and jammy flavours, like black cherry liqueur. Could be amazing with a piece of dark chocolate. BURNING KILN M-1 KILN-DRIED MERLOT 2016, ONTARIO ($59.95)

Garnet hue with an orange-brown rim. Dark stewed fruit and yogurt aromas. Flavours are jammy and somewhat caramelized with a hot and heavy finish. 16.2% alc./vol. CAVE SPRING CELLARS LA PENNA 2016, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($49.95)

PILLITTERI ESTATES RISERVA FAMIGLIA APPASSIMENTO FRUTTAIO 2015, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($98)

There are four wines in this series: Cab Franc, Merlot, Trivalente (a Bordeaux blend) and Fruttaio. All are deeply coloured, powerful and concentrated. Their noses are closed and unyielding with dark, dense fruit lurking in the background, waiting, wanting years to mature. This unique blend includes all three classic Italian grapes — Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara — plus a good dollop of Merlot. Everything about it seemed a smidge softer: smooth, ripe, ruby-cherry flavours, silky texture, round mouthfeel and a long, complex and seductive finish. The price is high, but, wow, what a wine.

One of the few wines that was approachable from the get-go. Although this is a blend of French grapes, there’s a definite Italian twang to it. Aromatically and stylistically, it reminded me of Tignanello. Even more delicious on the second day. Concentrated, elegant, complex, and full of promise for so much more in the future. Best value.

REIF ESTATE WINERY THE MAGICIAN SHIRAZ-PINOT NOIR 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($30)

FOREIGN AFFAIR WINERY THE CONSPIRACY 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($21.95)

RENNIE ESTATE SUPER G CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($60)

Widely available throughout the country and general-listed in Ontario stores, this is the perfect introduction to appassimento. Bright, fruity nose of blackberry and raspberry, medium-bodied, dry, with mouth-watering acidity, soft tannins and plenty of charm. Can age, but why bother.

Where any other appassimento Cabernet Sauvignon might benefit from a day’s breathing, this one might do better with two. It was super dense, super concentrated and super tough on Day 1. Restrained and closed, it had a nutty, almost silky smooth, chocolatey twang to it. On Day 2, it showed varietal characteristics — cassis, violet, black tea — but after Day 3, all the flavours came together in a powerful grape stew. Dark, dark fruit, bitter chocolate and spicy oak flavours, a tough, tannic structure and a long, chest-thumping finish.

FOREIGN AFFAIR WINERY APOLOGETIC RED 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($69.95)

Deep purple-garnet colour. Aromas of black fruits, liquorice, bouquet garni and shoe wax. Concentrated, rich and dense, with sweet fruit, lush texture, dark chocolate nuances, solid tannins and enough alcohol to tingle my tongue. Winery only. Sorry, not sorry. KEW VINEYARDS HERITAGE 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($39.95)

Garnet with a rich browning edge. Fullish, mature nose hints at game, soy, earth and prunes. Medium-bodied, with mouth-watering acidity, tart cherry pie flavours and a long finish. Cheese, please.

Highly praised by British wine writer Jamie Goode, I was somewhat less enamoured by this odd couple. Inky purple-garnet colour. Sweet blackberry flavours with a tart, cooked cherry undertone and some herbal, earthy notes in the tannic finish. Better on Day 2? You decide.

RIDGEPOINT WINES MERLOT APPASSIMENTO 2013, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($60)

Garnet bowl with browning rim. Mature, plummy aromas and sour cherry flavours are tasty and lasting. Good concentration of fully mature fruit. For shortterm cellaring.

SEPTEMBER 2019 21

BARCLAY ROBINSON, WINEMAKER AT THE FOREIGN AFFAIR WINERY

Working with the Vineland Research and Innovation Centre (VRIC), Crispino helped develop some of the early air-drying techniques currently in use. In what he calls his slow-wine process, Crispino employs industrial fans to blow cold air into and out of his grape warehouse for almost 100 days, dehydrating the fruit by as much as 50 percent. The winery was presented with the Premier’s Award for Agri-Food Innovation, in recognition of “its pioneering efforts to improve Canadian winemaking by applying the classic methods of appassimento to local grapes.” (The VRIC further adapted the technology and patented a Free-Air System for use by smaller wineries that want to try making wine from air-dried grapes.) A FEW YEARS LATER, THE IDEA OF CONVERTING some of southern On-

tario’s discontinued tobacco kilns into grape-drying facilities caught the attention of new as well as established wineries. Reif Estate Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake purchased a couple of kilns and had them moved to the property. It now offers two premium-priced kilndried reds and one white. 22 SEPTEMBER 2019

Seven investors built the small but well-equipped Burning Kiln Winery on an old tobacco farm they purchased in 2007 in Norfolk County, just west of Turkey Point Provincial Park. As the winery’s name implies, every product made here is touched in some way by the kiln-drying process. Since Ontario’s wine colleges started adding courses in appassimento winemaking, graduates have been better able to handle the intricacies of choosing grape varieties, selecting the ripest bunches, monitoring sugars, acids and tannins, identifying temperature and humidity sweet spots, as well as discovering the limitations of the process. The first and most obvious restriction is that one cannot “ripen” grapes with air-drying. The process simply concentrates existing flavours. When grapes are underripe, they yield an iffy, bitter, alcoholic wine. Winemaker Shauna White at Adamo Estate in the Hockley Hills of south-central Ontario air-dries some of her ripest grapes for as little as 15 days, reducing water content by just a few percent. Her 2016s — Cabernets, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Meritage — are concentrated and

dense, while retaining all their youthful aromas and flavours, rather than venturing into the range of stewed fruits. Sadly, I did not get to taste the wines of Big Head, owned by Andrzej Lipinski, or those of Colaneri Estates, whose winemaking he oversees but Lipinski has been the poster boy for appassimento winemaking in Ontario for many years. One imperative to fully enjoying these wines, because they are so tight and closed in their youth, I recommend a full day of aeration before they begin to reveal their personalities. I invited a couple of colleagues to taste 30 wines with me. (Why waste a unique opportunity to taste so many at once?) Thinking it might help the wines evolve, I opened the bottles an hour before my friends arrived. It made no difference at all. Most of the wines only began to relax and show varietal characteristics the following day. Others needed the time to blow off early bottle smells, volatile acidity, disjointed aromas and flavours, alcoholic disharmony and other symptoms of uneasy winemaking. Retasted daily, most of them lasted a full week. So, here’s my advice: open, taste, decant, serve tomorrow. ×

PIVOT by Tim Pawsey

ON A SUNNY SPRING DAY SOME 25 YEARS AGO, IN GEHRINGER BROTHERS’ IMMACULATE SOUTH OKANAGAN VINEYARD, A SMALL GROUP LISTENED INTENTLY TO WINEMAKER WALTER GEHRINGER. “Making red wines in the Okanagan

is really pushing the envelope,” Gehringer suggested, in response to a query about why they produced only whites. That occasion remains vivid in my mind. Not so much because of the beauty of the setting — or because someone discovered a prickly pear cactus the hard way, by sitting on it. But above all, because that statement is now a potent indicator of just how much has truly shifted since before “climate change” made it into the everyday vernacular. More than a few vintages have passed since people like the Okanagan’s Harry McWatters (first to ante up on Bordeaux varieties) and Inniskillin’s Karl Kaiser and Donald Ziraldo, in Niagara, took their leaps of faith that eventually helped put Canada on the world wine map. While their success may have been foreseeable, there are other, less-predictable envelopes getting pushed. In places like Lillooet, Kamloops, the Creston Valley, Prince Edward County, the Eastern Townships and Annapolis Valley, viticulturists have been successfully pushing the traditional boundaries of cool climate viticulture. When Bruce Ewert and his wife, Pauline Scott, decided to head out east from the west coast, it marked a return to Scott’s Nova Scotia roots. After several years of working for others, as head winemaker at Jackson Triggs and Hawthorn Mountain, BC-raised Ewert wanted to establish his own winery on the east coast. He knew it was vital to plant a variety that made sense — in this case, the l’Acadie Blanc that inspired the winery’s name. “We tasted the l’Acadie grape. I liked the acid profile and the fruit, which isn’t overly fruity,” says Ewert. “At that point, there was no bubble in the province; I thought it would make a wonderful sparkling wine. SEPTEMBER 2019 23

SEA STAR SIEGERREBE 2018, GULF ISLANDS ($24)

This cross between Madeleine Angevine and Gewürztraminer yields an appealing rose petal nose with stone fruit and tropical notes before a palate of citrus and tangerine with a hint of rose petal, and a touch of gently herbal edge before lingering lychee and citrus close. SEA STAR STELLA MARIS 2018, GULF ISLANDS ($24)

This blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Schoenburger and Ortega with Chardonnay from just across the water on Saturna Island, offers a pretty pale pink hue from the Pinot Gris, with orchard and stone fruit before a juicy palate of peach, citrus and melon, wrapped in good acidity through the finish. L’ACADIE VINEYARDS 2010 PRESTIGE ESTATE BRUT, GASPEREAU, NOVA SCOTIA ($48)

Toasty notes on top, hints of brioche and a lively stream of fine bubbles add up to a convincing nod to Champagne. Good mousse and a well-textured palate emphasized by citrus and leesy notes before a clean and lengthy finish. L’ACADIE VINEYARDS 2017 ESTATE L’ACADIE, GASPEREAU, NOVA SCOTIA ($22)

Hand-harvested from 12-year-old organic vines on welldrained rocky schist and sandstone. A pronounced mineral texture with a touch of saline. Cork closure, with potential to age up to 10 years. WAUPOOS ESTATES BACO NOIR APPASSIMENTO 2017, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($50)

Hand-harvested grapes, greenhouse-dried for 7 days on custom-built pine racks, yield a well-structured palate with red and black fruit, dark cherry and mocha with a hint of raisin through a lengthy end. WAUPOOS ESTATES RED RABBIT 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($18)

Easy-drinking blend of 56% Merlot and 44% Cabernet Sauvignon with some Niagara fruit included. Upfront red and black berries with toast and vanilla notes, before a plush cherryand cassis-toned palate supported by well-integrated tannins. FORT BERENS DRY RIESLING 2018, LILLOOET, BC ($19)

Hand-harvested estate-grown fruit, stainless-steel fermented. Upfront aromas of citrus and orchard fruit, bright green apple and zesty lemon notes with a streak of minerality below zippy acidity, the product of significant diurnal temperatures. Crisp and clean through the finish. FORT BERENS PINOT NOIR 2016, LILLOOET, BC ($26)

A lighter-bodied Pinot but one that punches well above its weight. Primarily Lillooet estate fruit (74%) with 26% from Vernon’s The Rise vineyard. Aromas of wild red berries and spice before a well-balanced palate of strawberry and cherry. Good intensity, balanced mouthfeel and silky tannins through a gently spicy and juicy finish. 24 SEPTEMBER 2019

“The Okanagan is described as cool climate. But, for sparkling, a lot of times the sugar accumulation was outpacing the ripening process. So to get ripe grapes, and the yardsticks you need, a lot of times I was working with grapes that weren’t physiologically right. But we had to pick because the sugars were getting too high.” In Nova Scotia, he goes on to explain, “There’s less heat units. We get about 1,000 units, with a base of 10 degrees Celsius. So far, after 12 vintages, we’ve consistently had moderate sugar levels with very good acid retention, which adds to the excitement of making sparkling wine out here. And we were the first to do it!” Ewert ponders the impact of a changing climate on what he describes as “an already short cycle,” or about 180 days: “Bud break now sometimes comes later than usual, and first frost possibly earlier. Even though winters may be getting milder, it’s not a certainty. Last year, we had our second bud break on June 20th. But the l’Acadie grape on our property adapted amazingly well and shortened its cycle through flowering and veraison, and still ripened for sparkling.” PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY’S FIRST COMMERCIAL VINIFERA VINEYARD WAS ESTABLISHED BY ED NEUSER AND RITA KAIMINS IN 1993. Opening Waupoos Estates Winery

in 2001, they were truly pioneers in kick-starting the County’s thriving scene. Waupoos winemaker Amy Baldwin (who has worked for the winery since 2011) says they’re very fortunate to be right on the lake. “When I first came, they said ‘Don’t worry, you know, the lake never freezes. It really helps us out in the winter.’ And then of course, in back-to-back winters, the lake has frozen over! “Our winters are a little unpredictable here. We do notice we’re getting a little bit colder. The snow is coming a lot later. It benefits us as a form of insulation,” says Baldwin, who now sees winter lows dipping to minus 26 to 27 Celsius. “We weren’t as hard hit as we initially thought,” says the winemaker. “We don’t bury our vines. Although, if we have another terrible winter, we would consider it. We do hill up to our graft and bury a cane or two.” Baldwin says they’re definitely noticing that summer is starting later. The last couple of years have seen “a really rainy start, and a cold, arduous spring,” which means bloom is happening a week or two later. Waupoos has 18 varieties planted, split pretty evenly between vinifera and hybrids, and evenly between reds and whites. The winery’s experimental philosophy still leads to trialling new varieties, such as Muscat, which was planted four years ago. “We’re still playing with that mindset of ‘what can we grow here?’,” Baldwin says, “but, overall, if our season is good, the sugars come along really beautifully.” It is a different climate from Niagara — and often a few days behind. But, she says, “the quality of fruit is really incredible. “We’re certainly in an industry where we rely on Mother Nature. So, of course, we need to work with her, not against her.” IN 2009, ROLF DE BRUIN AND HELEEN PANNEKOEK CO-FOUNDED FORT BERENS ESTATE WINERY ON A 20-ACRE VINEYARD THEY ESTABLISHED IN LILLOOET, BC. Almost a

decade on, de Bruin is noticing milder winters.

FORT BERENS

He relies on old-timers for a picture of how things used to be. Some 80 years ago, Lillooet used to have orchards with soft and hard fruits, says de Bruin. “But at some point, they were lost, during harsh winters in the 1940s and ’50s. The only mementos are a few old wild trees dotted about and some street names [like Orchard Drive]. Yet now the winters are warming considerably. “We haven’t seen anything below minus 20 over the last few years,” says the winery owner. Lillooet, a 90-minute drive through the mountains northeast of Whistler, was appealing for its much more affordable land compared to the Okanagan. “It was about location and economic factors for us,” he says. “The really good [Okanagan] spots were all taken. The choices we had were farther away, more off the beaten track — and prices at the time didn’t make sense.” Even though Kamloops has grown and there’s more acreage, “We still feel this climate is more conducive. We don’t experience any winter kill ...” However, he goes on to suggest that Lillooet’s milder winters affect grape growing in other ways. “Climate change means summers are much drier, with less precipitation in spring and overall less snow in winter. That translates to a drier climate but also means more forest fires and other issues that affect both grape growing and tourism,” he says. So, will Fort Berens have to reconsider what’s been planted? “I don’t think it will require us to change varieties,” says de Bruin. “Pinot Noir is still the variety we struggle with the most because it does get so hot here. And that affects its development. But the other varieties thrive in that heat. We expect to continue with what we have.” PHOTO: STEVEN EVANS

SIGNIFICANT CHANGE IS AFOOT EVEN ON USUALLY MUCH MORE MODERATE SOUTHERN VANCOUVER ISLAND AND SOUTHERN GULF ISLAND. Observers report a

considerable shift over the last few vintages, particularly between 2014 and 2018, especially when compared to the decades leading up to the millennium. Rainfall during the key growing season summer months has decreased by about one half — to near drought levels. However, annual rainfall is actually increasing, with more rain (and snow) in the winter months. While it’s unlikely that the coast will become as heated as the interior any time soon, Pinot Noir in particular is now becoming more reliable, with riper fruit and bigger yields. But there’s also a down-side, as some dry-farmed vineyards may have to invest in irrigation in order for vines to survive water stress. On Pender Island, at the southernmost extremity of the Gulf Islands, Sea Star Estate Winery has been busy expanding its Pinot Noir program, specifically with the purchase in 2017 of Saturna Vineyards, on the neighbouring Island of the same name. The addition of a total of 44 acres under vine is extremely beneficial, says owner David Goudge, who, in addition to an expanded program for much in demand Pinot Noir also plans to make sparkling wine. Climate change could well have been flexing its muscles as long as a couple of decades ago. One harbinger was BC’s 1998 overheated vintage, at the time the hottest on record — though no more. However most of those who chose then to stake their viticultural claim in those “borderline ripening” areas had few clues such game changing shifts might occur. Oh, and just for the record, Gehringer Brothers now makes Pinot Noir, and several Bordeaux varieties and blends. The envelope is being pushed no more. × SEPTEMBER 2019 25

A CHOCOLATE BAR A DAY? by Daniel Yetman

Do you deprive yourself of chocolate because you think it’s a junk food? If so, it’s time to change the way you think about this superfood.

According to Julianna Tan, a chocolatier in Saskatoon and co-owner of Those Girls at the Market, “we have come to associate chocolate with processed junk food that is primarily made of white sugar, hydrogenated vegetable oils, and artificial flavours and colours… The main ingredient (cocoa) is not at all candy.” Cocoa solids contain a variety of nutrients that support your physical and mental health.

TYPES OF DARK CHOCOLATE

Chocolate comes in three varieties: milk, white and dark. White chocolate is made from cocoa butter while dark chocolate is primarily made from the solids of the cocoa bean. Milk chocolate is a mix of both. To maximize chocolate’s health benefits, stick to dark chocolate because it contains the highest density of cocoa solids and the least amount of sugar.

CHOCOLATE MICRONUTRIENTS

Dark chocolate supplies a variety of essential micronutrients. A chocolate bar made from 85 percent cocoa solids contains roughly 98 percent of your daily manganese, 89 percent of your daily copper and 67 percent of your iron. It also contains more than 20 percent of your daily magnesium, phosphorous, zinc and potassium. 26 SEPTEMBER 2019

CHOCOLATE ANTIOXIDANT AND FLAVANOL CONTENT

Berries and bright-coloured fruit have a reputation for being a source of antioxidants. Antioxidants help your body fight oxidative damage, boost your immune system and delay aging. It may be surprising to learn that, gram per gram, dark chocolate contains more antioxidants than blueberries. Dark chocolate also contains a phytonutrient called flavanol. Flavanol stimulates the release of nitric oxide, which helps your arteries relax and improves your blood pressure. The flavanols in dark chocolate, together with another chemical called methylxanthine, stimulate blood flow in your brain, which may improve cognitive function, mood and memory. “[Dark Chocolate] can be enjoyed as a healthy part of our diets and has positive effects on both our bodies and our mental state,” says Julianna. “From lowering blood pressure to increasing feelgood neurochemicals in the brain, chocolate is an incredible food, which can (and should!) be savoured every day.” If you want to include chocolate in your diet for its health benefits, look for dark chocolate that contains at least 70 percent cocoa solids. Save milk and white chocolate as treats for special occasions. × × VISIT WWWQUENCH.ME/FOOD/ FOR MORE SUPERFOODS

BUYING GUIDE

All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs

SPARKLING

white flowers with subtle chalky finish and salty tang. Fine mousse and creamy texture with discreet aromas of pastry. How nice to find a dry Prosecco. A great companion for sashimi. (MB)

DEA DEL MARE DOP PROSECCO, ITALY ($15)

Medium yellow with adequate bubbles. Faint nose of apple, maybe a hint of apricot. Ripe apple on the palate with perfect acidity. Very quaffable. Drink now. (RL)* VILARNAU BRUT RESERVA CAVA, PENEDES ($15.95)

If you are looking for an inexpensive yet quality sparkling wine, here’s my pick. This tasty blend of 50% Macabeo, 35% Parellada and 15% Xarello with a lightly floral, apple and citrus nose. It is medium-bodied, dry and well-balanced with apple purée and lemon flavours. (TA) STAG’S HOLLOW MUSCAT FRIZZANTE 2018, OKANAGAN FALLS ($22)

Floral, orange blossom and jasmine notes up front, with a persistent mousse and lively bubbles. Refreshingly balanced with good acidity, pear and honey notes through a medium- to off-dry close. (TP) BIANCAVIGNA BRUT BIOLOGICO CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG PROSECCO SUPERIORE 2017, ITALY ($25)

Dry and light on its feet with tangy acid and a pretty palate with notes of lemon,

DRAPPIER BRUT NATURE (ZERO DOSAGE) PINOT NOIR CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($58)

Bright straw in colour with a bready nose complemented by apple and lemon notes. Light- to medium-bodied, firmly structured, crisply dry, red apple flavour with lemony acidity. Great length. (TA)

CROATIA KUTJEVO GRASVINA 2017, KUTJEVO ($16)

We do not often see wines from Croatia at liquor board stores but here is a very tasty white at a good price. Grasevina is the Slovenian name for the Welschriesling grape. Medium straw in colour, it offers a lightly floral grapefruit nose with a touch of spice. It is medium-bodied, dry, with minerally, ripe apple and grapefruit flavours, and an enticing note of bitterness on the finish. Makes an ideal aperitif wine. (TA) CANADA

WHITE

LAKEVIEW CELLARS VIOGNIER 2017, ONTARIO ($18.95)

$20 AND UNDER

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRIA L & T FALKENSTEIN GRŰNER VELTLINER 2017, WEINVIERTEL ($15.95)

I am a great fan of Austrian Grűner Veltliner as a versatile food wine. Bright, light straw in colour, this Grűner has that characteristic bouquet of white pepper and peach skin with a thread of minerality. The wine is medium-bodied, dry, with flavours of white peach and lemon. A beautifully balanced wine that cries out for asparagus, sushi or scallops. (TA)

Bright pale straw in colour. Light mineral nose of peach and floral top note. Medium-bodied, dry, white peach, honey and citrus flavours. Fresh and lively on the palate. Well balanced. (TA) FLAT ROCK CHARDONNAY 2016, ONTARIO ($19.95)

Pineapple, peach and lemon aromas on the nose and well-integrated oak. Medium-bodied, dry, spicy, mango and citrus flavours that linger. (TA)

KEW MARSANNE 2016, NIAGARA ($19.95)

Marsanne is a grape I usually associate with the Rhone Valley. Winemaker Philip SEPTEMBER 2019 27

BUYING GUIDE Dowell at Kew Vineyards has followed up his award-winning 2015 vintage of Marsanne with an equally worthy 2016. Its lightly mineral, floral, white peach nose has some oak spice backing. It is medium-bodied, dry, elegant and beautifully balanced with a fresh, white peach flavour and lemony acidity. Works well with grilled fish. (TA)

AUSTRALIA VOYAGER ESTATE CHENIN BLANC 2016, MARGARET RIVER ($19.75)

Chenin Blanc is not the first grape one thinks about when seeking a bottle from the coastal Margaret River wine region. But this wine makes a strong case for planting more. Great structure with bright acid and the classic notes of chamomile, quince and stone fruit we associate Chenin with, in a moderate climate. I strongly urge you to try it with rillettes on fresh baguette. (MB) FRANCE DOMAINE CÉLINE ET FRÉDÉRIC GUEGUEN, BOURGOGNE AOC 2018 ($20)

Steely with refreshing notes of green apple and citrus with brisk acid. Nice mouthfeel and a moderate body. Simple and easy to drink as an aperitif, but shines with scallop ceviche. (MB) ITALY SANTA CRISTINA CASASOLE AMABILE 2017 DOC ORVIETO CLASSICO ($10)

“Amabile” means slightly sweet — not the style of most Orvietos. Clear pale silvery yellow. Robust nose of orange and

nectarine on the palate. An added mouthfeel from judicious use of oak above a hint of spice through the finish. (TP) UPPER BENCH 2018 RIESLING, NARAMATA BENCH ($23.10)

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA MAC FORBES CHARDONNAY 2017, YARRA VALLEY ($35)

RECOMMENDED

28 SEPTEMBER 2019

pineapple. It is light-bodied with light, somewhat sweet flavours of peaches and dessert grapes. Would do well with Asian foods. Drink now. (RL)

My numerous trips to Australia in the last five years have convinced me that the country produces some of the best Chardonnay in the world and, often, at an appealing price. This wine from the talented Mac Forbes makes a strong case for it. Full body with fresh acid and compact structure with an enjoyable reductive touch. Appealing notes of lemon and lime zest are in symbiosis with the creamy texture. Crab, please! (MB) AUSTRIA ALZINGER, DÜRSTEINER RIESLING FEDERSPIEL 2015, WACHAU ($29)

Abundant mouth-watering notes of lime, lemon and orange blossom with a touch of petrol and tangy acid. Exudes the depth and charm of the excellent 2015 vintage. Delicious now but will certainly keep well and reward those who have the discipline to age it for the next 7 to 10 years. (MB) CANADA

MISSION HILL PINOT GRIS RESERVE 2018 ($21.99)

A refreshing and quite complex take on the variety that yields stone fruits and citrus up front with a touch of citrus and

Citrus, gooseberry and stone fruit on top, followed by brightly focussed green apple and lemon lime notes above a streak of chalky minerality, overall defined by taut acidity through a crisp and clean, zesty close. (TP) SEA STAR ORTEGA 2018, GULF ISLANDS ($23.90)

From Sea Star estate. Aromas of orchard fruits, apple and pear with a bright entry, underpinned by firm acidity. Some pink grapefruit citrus, zesty notes and guava, with well-defined acidity and varietal character through the close. One of the best examples as to just how well, in the right hands, this variety performs in the Gulf Islands and parts of Vancouver Island. (TP) SEA STAR SALISH SEA 2018, GULF ISLANDS ($24.90)

A blend of 60% Ortega with 40% Siegerrebe lures with seductive rose petal hints and orange blossom on the nose, before a complex blend of grapefruit and citrus notes almost reminiscent of Riesling, which is a parent of Siegerrebe. Superbly focused and balanced with lingering, juicy acidity. (TP) CLOS DU SOLEIL WINEMAKER’S SERIES PINOT BLANC 2018, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($26)

From 20 year old vines on Keremeos middle bench. Whole cluster pressed and cold fermented with some lees contact for added texture. Lifted orchard

fruit and stone fruit aromas lead to a precisely focused but generous palate of citrus and tropical flavours under bright apple and pear notes. A hallmark of well-balanced acidity lingers through the finish. The lack of oak allows for the purest of varietal expressions. (TP) NOBLE RIDGE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2016, OKANAGAN FALLS ($26)

Aged in French oak (20% new) for 14 months. Forward stonefruit and vanilla notes with a hint of coconut; peach and tropical hints on the palate with creamy undertones above well-managed oak. Think pairings such as scallops and lobster. (TP) WINEMAKER’S CUT GRÜNER VELTLINER 2018, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($28)

Upfront orchard fruits and stony notes before a focussed palate of green apple with a hint of pepper, some nutty notes and a definite mineral streak right through the finish, plus a touch of salinity. Clean, fresh and the perfect partner for chilled seafood such as chilled Dungeness crab. (TP) BLACK HILLS ESTATE WINERY CHARDONNAY 2017, OKANAGAN ($29.90)

Bright medium straw in colour with a nose of apple and pear lifted with oak spice. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, pineapple and pear flavours with vanilla oak notes. Beautifully balanced and rich in the mouth, reminiscent of a Pouilly-Fuissé. (TA)

NOBLE RIDGE THE ONE 2015, OKANAGAN FALLS ($39.99)

A classic blend of 70% Chardonnay with Pinot Noir, whole cluster pressed and cold fermented, held en tirage for 28 months. A stream of fine bubbles precedes appealing toasty and brioche notes before a well-textured palate of citrus and red berry notes underpinned by well-balanced acidity and a lengthy finish. (TP) FRANCE CHATEAU DE LA CORMERAIS MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, 2018, LOIRE VALLEY ($26)

Focussed intensity. Pure and defined with stone fruit, citrus, salinity and chalky penetrating flavours. Finessed with bright acidity on the lengthy finish. (GB) LES PRINTANIERES MUSCADET SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, 2018, LOIRE VALLEY ($28)

Full, salty, bold, intense, penetrating, long and fresh with concentrated citrus, briny notes, racy acidity and a lengthy expressive finish. Need oysters, but grilled octopus, squid and other such creatures from the sea would also make delicious partners. (GB) DOMAINE DU CHALET POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2016, MAÇONNAIS ($33.95)

Bright lemon yellow in colour with a lightly reductive, minerally, spicy, toasty nose of green pineapple with a floral top note. Medium-bodied, dry, well-structured with a touch of clove on the finish. Simply delicious. (TA)

SUMMERHILL RIESLING 2017, OKANAGAN ($32.30)

Pale straw in colour. Lightly spicy and floral grapefruit nose and beginning to develop petrol notes. Light- to medium-bodied, great tension between Meyer lemon acidity and honeyed grapefruit flavours. Beautifully balanced and lingering with an intriguing touch of bitterness on the finish for added interest. (TA) RAVINE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2017, ONTARIO ($35)

Pale golden straw in colour. Spicy, peach and apple bouquet with well-integrated oak. Medium-bodied, dry, apple and pear flavours lifted with oak spice. Rich mouth-feel with a long presence on the palate. (TA)

note. Medium-bodied, honeyed apple flavour with oak spice and lemony acidity. Well-balanced and nicely integrated oak, sweet apple finish. (TA)

RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA THE OTHER WINE CO. GRENACHE 2018, MCLAREN VALE ($27)

Generous flavours of wild strawberries and raspberries are lifted by pretty violet notes. Nice silky texture with soft tannins and well-integrated 13.5% abv. A great example of the style of Grenache coming out of McLaren Vale: un-oaked, pure and showing the delicate style of Grenache. Best if served slightly chilled. Pulled-pork sandwich, hello! (MB) AUSTRIA SCHAUER SAUVIGNON BL ANC RIED GAISRIEGL 2017, SUDSTEIERMARK ($30)

Delicate, lightly herbal, flinty and linear with lively acidity and a focussed finish. Understated, but very good quality. Grown in a windy, cool site with reddish slate soils at an elevation of nearly 500 metres. Not what people might typically associate with Sauvignon Blanc if they are used to drinking New Zealand and Californian varieties, but definitely an expression worth exploring. (GB) FRANCE GUIGAL 2015 AC CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($21)

ITALY MARCO FELLUGA JUST MOLAMATTA FRIULI BIANCO 2017, FRIULI ($21.95)

A blend of Pinot Bianco, Tocai Friulano and Ribolla Gialla. Bright, deep straw in colour with a yellow apple nose and a thread of minerality; medium-bodied, dry, stony, apple and lemon flavours with a mineral finish and a touch of almond nut finish. Full in the mouth and well-balanced. (TA) UNITED STATES JOSEPH CARR CHARDONNAY 2016, CARNEROS ($29.95)

Bright lemon colour with a minerally, toasty, apple nose with a forest floor

× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/

Fairly robust nose with banana, kiwi, pineapple and orange all present. Medium-bodied, tasting mostly of apples, with a long, slightly bitter finish. Like many Rhone whites, a useful food wine, and one of the exceptional ones that will stand up to strong cheeses. Drink up. (RL) ITALY FRANCHETTO SOAVE LA CAPELINA 2018, VENETO ($32)

Crisp and fresh with lemon citrus, mineral, soft acidity. Clean and pleasant, easy without being simplistic. Grown on volcanic soils from 35 year old vines at an elevation of 220 metres. Ideal as an aperitif wine and with light, fresh dishes. (GB) SEPTEMBER 2019 29

BUYING GUIDE PORTINARI SOAVE SUPERIORE CLASSICO RONCHETTO 2012, VENETO ($32)

Depth and layers of penetrating flavours, minerally with mouth-watering acidity, a ripe and rich slightly honeyed texture. Well done for its style. (GB)

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRIA SABATHI HANNES SAUVIGNON BLANC KRANACHBERG 2011, SUDSTEIERMARK ($40)

Fresh and lean, yet rich with length and depth. Tight, racy with a stony minerality, like drinking from a mountain stream: precise, enticing and mouth-watering. (GB) SABATHI ERWIN SAUVIGNON BLANC POSSNITZBERGER KAPELLE 2015, SUDSTEIERMARK ($45)

Chalky, marl soils, steep slopes and an elevation of close to 500 metres all contribute to this mineral, salty, fresh, linear wine with a long length and slightly ripe fruit flavours. The wine still maintains an electric racy acidity that is in line with the producers’ description of 2015 as a warm vintage, but in which acidity was maintained. Sudsteiermark is located in southeastern Austria along the Slovenian border and is characterized by plentiful hills and steep slopes. Sauvignon Blanc is the most important grape variety in the area. (GB) ERICH & WALTER POLZ SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE HOCHGRASSNITZBERG 2015, SUDSTEIERMARK ($50)

Ripe yellow fruit, but good acidity, flinty, salty, spicy and rich with notes of mandarin peel. The firm structure and bright acidity should allow this wine to age well 30 SEPTEMBER 2019

for another 3 to 5 years. Fermented in large oak casks and grown in a cooler site with shale and limestone soils. (GB) CANADA CHARLES BAKER PICCONE VINEYARD RIESLING 2019, VINEMOUNT RIDGE, ONTARIO ($37)

Pale straw colour with a floral, grapefruit bouquet accentuated by a thread of minerality. Light- to medium-bodied, just off-dry with tangerine and grapefruit flavours. A beautifully balanced wine. (TA) FRANCE DOMAINE HENRI BOILLOT, BOURGOGNE AOC 2017 ($40)

When you find a great Burgundy at that price, you buy as much as you can. That is what I did. Rich with a creamy texture and delectable palate where notes of butter, vanilla and lemon are in symbiosis and balanced by bright acid. Long lingering finish. In a blind tasting, I would be fooled into thinking this is a Meursault. Lobster’s best friend. Outstanding value! (MB)

RECOMMENDED ITALY INAMA SOAVE CLASSICO VIGNETI DI CARBONARE 2016, VENETO ($40)

Salty and savoury with penetrating flavours of stone fruit, citrus and a pleasant bitterness. A full mouth-feel, long and persistent with a linear core. (GB) JERMANN CAPO MARTINO 2016, VENEZIA GIULIA (95$)

A field blend with mostly Friulano and

some Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit. Opulent with zesty lemon, red apple and lanolin notes mixed with a nice touch of honey. Soft acid but the salty tang and pleasant bitterness that lingers on the finish keep the wine in harmony. This wine has been highly acclaimed since its first conception in 1991 and it’s easy to see why. A wine meant for gastronomy. Seafood risotto would be perfect. (MB)

ROSÉ CHAPOUTIER BELLERUCHE ROSÉ 2018 AOP CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE, FRANCE ($13)

Clear pale orange-tinged pink. Faint but pleasant nose of apple, yielding to candy apple and floral scents over time in the glass. Light-bodied, with lemon and cranberry flavours. Better served not too cold. Worked well with BBQ ribs. Drink up. (RL) MISSION HILL RESERVE ROSÉ VQA 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($16)

The pink of expensive lingerie. Strong nose of melon, peach and orange. Light-bodied with strawberry, cranberry and grapefruit flavours in perfect acidity and a long finish. The quality surprised me. Drink up. (RL) FONTANAFREDDA SOLEROSE ROSATO 2018 DOC LANGHE, PIEDMONT, ITALY ($17)

Clear medium-deep pink tinged with copper. Medium strength nose showing strawberry, apple and orange. On the palate, medium-bodied, tasting like strawberry yoghurt with some mango coulis. Delicious with a BLT sandwich on the deck. Drink up. (RL)

SALISH SEA BLANC DE NOIR 2018, GULF ISLANDS, BC ($24.90)

100% Pinot Noir from Clam Bay, Sea Star and Saturna: red berries and red apple hints with an entry of juicy strawberry, cranberry and raspberry, underpinned by an appealing savoury edge. Light- to medium-bodied with supple tannins wrapped in bright acidity. A fitting tribute to the late Jean Luc Bertrand, who commenced planting the Saturna vineyard in 1995. (TP)

earthy, black fruit flavours are carried on lively acidity to a firm tannic finish. Perfect for pepper steak or spicy beef stews. (TA) CANADA

LÍRICO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 ($15) EASTDELL PINOT NOIR 2017, NIAGARA ($16)

Gently earthy, strawberry nose. It is medium-bodied, dry and savoury, with raspberry and red plum flavours. Well-balanced and varietally correct with a fresh acidic finish. It works well with roast chicken or poached salmon. (TA)

MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE BRIGADIER’S BLUFF ROSÉ 2018, OSOYOOS ($30)

Merlot dominant (73%) blend with Syrah and Cabernet. Pretty salmon in the glass, reminiscent of Provence, orchard fruit and peach on the palate. Juicy strawberry and nectarine notes with good length and extra mouthfeel from a little neutral oak. Chalky and mineral hints plus a touch of spice on the close. (TP) QUAILS’ GATE LUCY’S BLOCK ROSÉ 2018, WEST KELOWNA ($30)

A blend of Pinot Meunier (60%) with Pinot Noir sports definite, appealing ‘Pinosity,’ as Ben Stewart used to say. Aromas of red berries with mineral hints before a herb, rhubarb and gently savoury toned, lightly juicy palate with a hint of zest to finish. (TP) DOMAINE BRUNO CLAIR 2017, MARSANNAY ROSÉ AOC, FRANCE (35$)

Pure and precise with the delicate charm that Pinot is capable of expressing in the commune of Marsannay. Bright acid with lush aromas of cherries and wild strawberries that end on subtle mineral notes. Delicate enough to sip alone but enough character to serve with grilled salmon. Love at first sight! (MB)

RED

$20 AND UNDER

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA KAIKEN ULTRA LAS ROCAS MALBEC 2016, MENDOZA ($19.95)

Cedary, blackberry nose lifted with oak spice. Medium- to full-bodied, its dry,

plum aromas dusted with black pepper. Light-bodied, tasting of sour cherries with elevated acidity. Despite the bitter tannins, this should be drunk now. (RL)*

FRANCE CLOS DES FÉES LES SORCIÈRES 2018, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON ($20)

Rich appealing combination of dark plum, raspberries, black olive and dried herbs brings you immediately to the sunny clime of the Roussillon. Full body with soft tannins. A beautiful wine to welcome the fall. Particularly delicious with grilled lamb. (MB) ITALY LE PUPILLE MORELLINO DI SCANSANO 2016, TUSCANY ($17.95)

Morellino di Scansano is a grape grown in Maremma, the coastal area of Tuscany. It is actually the local name for Sangiovese and is usually blended with Malvasia Nera and Alicante. Dense purple in colour, this wine has a cedary, cherry nose backed by oak spice. It is medium-bodied and dry, with a well-extracted cherry flavour and chewy tannins on the finish. A great match for spaghetti bolognaise. (TA) PORTUGAL AGENDA 2014, DOC DÃO ($15)

Deep garnet. Out-of-the-glass nose of cassis, cherry and vanilla. Medium body. Fresh cherry flavours on the palate, nicely balanced with soft tannins. Unpretentious, but delicious. Good value. At its best now. (RL)*

RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA LÍRICO MALBEC 2016 ($15)

Reticent nose of oak with cherry and

Clear medium-deep garnet. Medium nose vaguely of dark berries and dust. Medium-bodied with light, sour simple red berry flavours leading to a slightly bitter tannic finish. Drink up. (RL)* ITALY COPPI PEUCETICO PRIMITIVO 2013, PUGLIA ($14.95)

Earthy, plum nose and a note of leather. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, plum and licorice flavours. Soft tannins with a lively acidic finish. (TA) UNITED STATES RAVENSWOOD OLD VINE ZINFANDEL VINTNER’S BLEND 2015 ($20)

Clear medium garnet. The nose of raspberry and cedarwood gives way to sweet crème-caramel, plums and violets. Full-bodied with lush sweet cherry and blackberry flavours. Good acidity and soft tannins prevent flabbiness. The model wine for home-grilled burgers. Drink this year or next. (RL)

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA CEDARCREEK MERLOT 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($20.99)

Creamy, cedary, blueberry nose with notes of vanilla oak and pencil lead; full-bodied, fruity with blueberry and mocha chocolate flavours ending on firm but ripe tannins. (TA) CLOSSON CHASE BROCK PINOT NOIR 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($24.95)

Lightly spicy nose of ripe cherries. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant and well-balanced with a firm tannic finish. Good varietal character. (TA) MELDVILLE WINES SYRAH 2017, NIAGARA ($27)

Dense purple in colour with a hightoned nose of black plums with a floral SEPTEMBER 2019 31

BUYING GUIDE note. Medium-bodied, dry, beautifully balanced, savoury ripe black fruit flavours. (TA) RAVINE VINEYARD MERITAGE 2017, ONTARIO ($28)

A blend of 32% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Petit Verdot. Deep purple-ruby in colour showing a cedary, vanilla oak and spicy plum nose. Medium-bodied, dry, savoury-herbal flavours of blackberry and plum, Lovely fruit expression carried on lively acidity. Drinking well now but would reward cellaring for a year or two. (TA) WINEMAKER’S CUT SYRAH 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($34)

From a single vineyard beside Deadman Lake, on the west side of the valley south of Oliver, this generously structured Syrah invites with wild red and black berries on the nose with smoky and earthy hints, before a plush and peppery palate with anise and mocha hints, before a lengthy spicy finish. (TP)

minerality on the nose before a well-balanced, medium-bodied palate with well-integrated tannins, savoury notes and good length. Lingering minerality reflects the rock and alluvial fan site, while extra hang time contributes to the richness and depth. Drinking well now but also worth waiting a few years. (TP)

A blend of 59% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon with 2% each of Cabernet Franc and Malbec sports toasted oak and vanilla with red berry notes before a pure and gently sweet but not extracted fruit entry with mulberry, cassis and five spice wrapped in juicy acidity that lingers through the finish. From eight small lots fermented and barrel aged for 12 months before blending. (TP) NOBLE RIDGE RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN FALLS ($34.99)

Forward cherry and wild strawberry with earthy background and definite 32 SEPTEMBER 2019

OYSTER BAY PINOT NOIR 2017, MARLBOROUGH ($20.95)

Medium ruby colour with a lightly cedary, spicy, plum nose. It is medium-bodied, dry with flavours of ripe cherry and plum. A nicely balanced, easy drinking wine that works well with duck, lamb or veal. (TA)

FRANCE CHÂTEAU DES TOURS BROUILLY 2016, BEAUJOLAIS ($21.95)

Brouilly is one of the 10 crus (named villages) in the northern Beaujolais region. This example has all the charm you expect from this ready-to-drink wine. Deep purple in colour, it offers a lightly floral nose of ripe plums. It is medium-bodied, dry and juicy, with cherry and red plum flavours with balancing acidity. You can drink it at room temperature with light meat dishes or chill it to bring out the freshness and serve it with tuna. (TA) ITALY

NOBLE RIDGE RESERVE MERITAGE 2016, OKANAGAN FALLS ($34.99)

NEW ZEALAND

ECO DI MARE 2013 DOC BOLGHERI ($29)

Made from Bordeaux-style grapes. Clear very deep purple-tinged garnet. Medium intensity nose of cassis, blackberry and black cherry. Full-bodied and tannic hot alcohol supporting dark berry flavours. Will improve for another year or two. Excellent with Rosemary-scented grilled lamb chops. (RL)* ISOLE E OLENA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2015, TUSCANY ($34.95)

Deep ruby colour with a cedary, cherry nose. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant and well-structured with a lingering flavour of cherries spiced with oak. (TA)

RECOMMENDED ITALY IL VELTRO 2015 DOC ROSSO DI MONTALCINO ($21)

Clear pale cranberry red. Medium nose of raspberry, oak and violet flowers. Tastes of cranberries and redcurrants. Still serious tannins, but at its best now. (RL)* UNITED STATES BOGLE OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2016 ($24)

Clear medium garnet with pink rim. Medium-intensity nose of blackberry and vanilla oak. Medium-bodied with fresh cherry, blackberry and strawberry fruits, hot alcohol, high acidity, saved from being a “bomb” by soft tannins. Drink this year or next. (RL)

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRIA WACHTER WIESLER BLAUFRANKISCH ALTE REBEN EISENBERG RESERVE 2014, BURGENLAND ($75)

Energetic and bright with an incredible velvety texture. Great balance, dark fruit, coffee and spice with a firm, lean

core and fresh acidity that should allow this wine to age well over the next few years, but so beautiful and delicious now. A stellar wine and incredibly versatile with everything from traditional western to Asian cuisines. (GB) CANADA CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES PINOT NOIR PAUL BOSC ESTATE VINEYARD 2016, ONTARIO ($38.95)

Medium ruby in colour with a high-toned, earthy, raspberry nose lifted with a light note of violets and a suggestion of oak. Medium-bodied, dry, red berry fruit flavours finishing on an earthy note. (TA) BLACK HILLS ESTATE WINERY ADDENDUM 2017, OKANAGAN ($49.90)

80% Merlot/10% Cabernet Franc/10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Opaque purple-black in colour with a cedary lightly herbal nose of black fruits. Full-bodied, rich and intense flavours of black plum, licorice and dark chocolate. Fleshy but well-balanced with ripe tannins and a long finish thanks to its fresh acidity. (TA) SUMMERHILL SPADEFOOT TOAD SYRAH 2013, OKANAGAN ($57.50)

Deep purple in colour. Cedary, blackberry nose with light herbal and white pepper notes. Medium- to full-bodied, dry and savoury. Blackberry flavour carried on lively acidity. Broad and muscular on the palate with enough tannin to give grip and structure. Lovely mouth-feel and a warm alcoholic finish. (TA) SUMMERHILL WINEMAKER’S SERIES RESERVE BARREL MERITAGE 2013, OKANAGAN ($74.75)

71% Cabernet Franc/18% Cabernet Sauvignon/11% Merlot. Mature ruby in colour. Cedary, dark chocolate, blackcurrant and plum bouquet. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, mouth-filling currant flavours seasoned with oak. A well-balanced, harmonious wine from a warm vintage. Ripe fruit and ripe tannins. (TA) FRANCE CHATEAU POUJEAUX 2010, AC MOULIS ($52)

From a serious year in Bordeaux, the complex blend of varietals produces

complex aromas. Opaquely deep, with a hue just on the young side of garnet. Rich port-like nose of black cherry, seasoned with a tinge of absinthe. On the palate, there is black cherry, prune nectar and chocolate, woody flavours with soft tannins and a long finish. Will coast for a while, but at its best now. (RL)

BEER & CIDER PARTAKE BREWING COMPANY STOUT, ONTARIO ($2/355 ML)

This deep brown stout swirls with walnut highlights under a tall, foamy cap. It looks and smells the part, like opening a fresh bag of medium-roast coffee with dark berry and plum notes. The medium-light, bubbly body boasts notes of coffee, smoke and a long, dry cacao-nib note in the finish. Roast dinners and stews make easy companions. (CL) MACLEAN’S ALES CHERRY PORTER, ONTARIO ($3.25/473 ML)

Made in Hamburg Ontario by seasoned brewmaster, Charles Maclean, this porter is made with eight types of barley giving it silky notes of dark chocolate, toffee and espresso. The beer is finished with Ontario cherries for a ribbon of tart cherries. Share a bottle with brownies for dessert. (CL) BOBCAGEYON BREWING COMPANY FOILAGE AUTUMN ALE, ONTARIO ($3.35/473 ML)

This is a beer to close your cottage with. Sip it under the last of the summer sun on your deck in September. Its deep caramel and biscuit notes with subtle cinnamon, ginger and allspice, beckon the beginning of a new season. (CL) OVERHOP BREWING CO. HAZY, QUEBEC ($3.75/473 ML)

This Rio de Janerio brewery hopped to Canada, landing in Toronto before moving to their permanent home in Montreal. Helmed by talented brewer, Patricia Rios, their Hazy drinks like a glorious tropical fruit bomb. Peaches and fresh mango mark the nose, cotton candy washes over the palate, drying out in the finish. Try this full, creamy New England style IPA

with Mexican, Thai or a fresh bowl loaded with fresh herbs and all the veggies. (CL) UERIGE ALTBIER, GERMANY ($3.95/330 ML)

Altbiers have terroir — it is hard to replicate the flavour without tasting one made in a Düsseldorf altbier brauerei. These amber-hued lagers are perfectly balanced, crisp German classics that deserve veneration. When it comes to this tightly defined beer style, Uerige is an outlier, beloved for its higher hop bitterness. It is rare to find a Düsseldorf example in Canada, so hunt down this Altbier at the LCBO in Ontario this fall. (CL) BAYERISCHE STAATSBRAUEREI WEIHENSTEPHAN WEIHENSTEPHAN VITUS, GERMANY ($3-$5/500 ML)

A treasure of a beer, Vitus has won many medals, including the World’s Best Beer at the 2011 World Beer Awards. This single bock beer is a sparkling classic with a warming 7.7% ABV. Flavours of chocolate and rye bread mixed with a fruity hefeweizen yeast strain that presents dried apricot, clove and banana notes. Try it with classic German fare like sausages and mashed potatoes, with apple sauce. (CL) INDIE ALEHOUSE BREWING COMPANY INSTIGATOR IPA, ONTARIO ($5/500 ML)

Indie Alehouse was an early mover on the Ontario scene and remains one of Toronto’s best brewpubs today. You can expect to see more of them outside of Toronto as they just opened a small production brewery. This beauty drinks like a summer fruit salad. Ribbons of strawberry, honeydew melon and orange lead to a racy, pine-like bitterness sailing on a creamy body. (CL) BENCH BREWING COMPANY CITRA GROVE, ONTARIO ($6.95/500 ML)

To make the Grove beer series, Bench’s brewmaster Mark Horsely brews a dry, wild ale fermented with the brewery’s mixed fermentation culture, but changes up the hop varietal each time. Citra Grove is a stunner: aromas of fermented lemon, white pepper, mandarin orange flesh and fresh pineapple mark the nose of this vivacious and bubbly ale. Try it with a mezze plate, and do not forget the pickled radish. (TL) SEPTEMBER 2019 33

AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER

BEST I’VE EVER TASTED “I forget the name of the place; I forget the name of the girl; but the wine was Chambertin.” Hilaire Belloc I believe that the memory of a great wine has little to do with the wine and everything to do with the circumstances in which you taste it. I would say that 60 percent of your enjoyment of wine is tied to when, where and with whom you drink it. As a wine writer, I get asked, “What is the greatest wine you have ever tasted?” I could answer, “the 1865 Château Lafite.” (No, this is not a typo — a pre-phylloxera 1865 claret I bought at auction in Toronto in the late 1980s.) I could also say “the 1960 Krug Champagne that Remi Krug poured on a Canadian visit in the 80s,” or “any of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti wines I tasted on a visit to the winery in Vosne-Romanée in 2009.” But none of those answers would be honest. Indeed, my most cherished wine memory involves a bottle of 1964 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogűé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. I was gifted this magnificent red Burgundy by the man who taught me about wine, the late Gordon Bucklitsch, who ran wine courses at Grants of St. James’s in London. A Falstaffian former British Navy soldier, he became the model on whom I based Ezra Brant, my fictional peripatetic wine writer and detective in a series of wine murder mysteries. I opened Gordon’s gift on February 13, 1975, the evening my son Guy was born. It was delicious, momentous, unforgettable. I drank the entire bottle by myself since my wife was otherwise occupied. 34 SEPTEMBER 2019

I was euphoric after the birth of my son and in the mood for a great wine. But now I ask myself whether I would have appreciated the Musigny as much if I had opened it at a dinner party that ended in a shouting match over some political matter? Context is everything in life and in wine. During my first visit to Bordeaux in 1966, I was given a tour of Château Palmer by its part-owner, the late Peter Sichel. (His German cousin of the same name, who gave the world Blue Nun wine, is still with us at age 95.) Upstairs at the château, Mr Sichel showed me the rooms where soldiers had been billeted when the German army occupied Bordeaux. The iron bedsteads and the graffiti on the walls were still there. Afterwards, I had lunch with the Bordeaux shipper William Bolter and some friends at a restaurant on top of the hill in Saint-Emilion. We lunched outdoors as it was a beautiful, sunny day. We ordered a few bottles of the house red over the course of a convivial meal. I enjoyed myself so much that I bought a bottle to take back to London. I opened it on a cold February night, hoping to relive the experience, but it tasted terrible so I poured it down the sink! Now I remember occasions by the wine I drank, with satisfaction. You may want to know what that 120-year-old bottle of Lafite tasted like. Well, it was on its deathbed, so to speak. For the first few minutes, it showed its glory with a wonderful fragrance of raspberries. Then, right before our eyes, the oxygen turned it brown in the glass. But we were drinking a significant moment in history — the year the American Civil War ended. As venerable British wine trade types say, nothing compares to pre-phylloxera claret. × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM

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NATIVE LAND OF THE Cab to MONASTRELL 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

put on your table, period. By keeping our roots, we follow our traditions. We have commited ourselves to produce top-quality wines, developing our genuine Monastrell grape variety.

HECULA IN FOLDER “ �

Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith

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NEW

PREMIUM SAKE

SAKE IN FOLDER

Easy to drink, Manga sakeis a high quality Junmai. Originating from the brithplace of sake in Japan and produced by a famous and highly respected japanese sake brewery dating from the 19th century Meiji era.