Quench Spring 2020

PM40063855 $7.95

SPRING 2020

NO PARTY WITHOUT

CHAMPAGNE

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NATIVE LAND OF THE Cab to MONASTRELL 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

put on your table, period. By keeping our roots, we follow our traditions. We have commited ourselves to produce top-quality wines, developing our genuine Monastrell grape variety.

HECULA IN FOLDER

“

Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith

�

QU

SPRING 2020 12

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FOR ALL OCCASIONS MICHAEL APSTEIN

Champagne isn’t only for special occasions. There’s no party without it.

NCH 20

A FRENCH STATE OF MIND W BLAKE GREY

Has the French approach to wine really dominated the world?

COLUMNS 6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

10 | ALIGOTÉ...GETS MY OKAY KONRAD EJBICH

It’s all in the batter.

Why do so many in Burgundy grow Aligoté on land they could use for Chardonnay or Pinot Noir?

8 | MUST TRY DANIEL YETMAN

17 | COMING OF AGE MICHAELA MORRIS

2 dark leafy greens you aren’t eating ... yet.

What are the Douro Boys up to?

9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

22 | THE OTHER SINGLE RED VARIETY TIM PAWSEY

Is there such a thing as a winter beer?

New grapes are popping up all over BC wine land.

27 | BUYING GUIDE

25 | MEAT AND POTATOES

The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.

TOD STEWART

34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER A scandalous oeno-porn collection.

Prince Edward Island is home to sea-brined finds, humble spuds and happy beef.

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SPRING 2020 3

LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR

WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR

Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR

Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS

Tony Aspler, Christine Sismondo, Robin LeBlanc CONTRIBUTORS

W Blake Grey, Michelle Bouffard, Konrad Ejbich, Michael Apstein, Tim Pawsey

WHICH IS BETTER: A BIG TOMAHAWK STEAK OR A SUCCULENT LOBSTER? A JACKED-UP FORD F-150 OR A SLEEK ASTON MARTIN DB4 GT ZAGATO? The in-your-face thrash metal

of Megadeth or the sweet soulful sounds of Sam Cooke? The reasonable answer to these questions is “it depends.” The point is that bigger does not necessarily mean better, and that something can be elegant and impactful at the same time. However, this principle seems to (wrongly) go amiss when it comes to wine. Powerful, oaky wines are often associated with quality and importance, whereas lighter ones (regardless of their level of freshness, depth of flavour, finesse and drinkability) are seen as inferior. At a conference I recently attended, the consensus among sommeliers, restauranteurs, retailers and wine educators was that older drinkers (i.e., white males over 65) hold this view, while younger drinkers gravitate toward fresher, brighter wines. What’s more, the industry is moving towards “terroir” wines: over-oaking, over-extraction and over-ripening in fact minimize the expression of place in wines. So the obvious question is: why are so many wineries still making heavily oaked, over-ripe wines? Perhaps the older demographic is still buying more wine than younger generations despite purchasing less than before. Perhaps wine drinkers in emerging markets perceive bigger wines as better because certain wine critics bestow these wines with higher ratings. Perhaps it’s easier for the average wine drinker to appreciate more in-your-face wines. Whatever the reason, appreciating elegance appears to be related to people’s desire for wines with drinkability and that satisfy their ever-evolving palates, whether the wine meets traditional perceptions of quality or not. Weight and flavour are not the same thing. A wine can be fresh and light in body and still possess intense and penetrating flavours. Subtilty can contribute to a wine’s complexity. Appreciating elegance may be synonymous with enhanced enjoyment, and enjoyment seems to be what future generations want from the wines they drink. What winery would not want to be a part of that?

4 SPRING 2020

TASTERS

Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Jordan St. John, Brie Dema and Jonathan Smithe CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Elvis Deane COPY DESK

Holland Gidney, Ellie Lord

CREATIVE BY PARIS ASSOCIATES PRODUCTION

WebFree, Designs In Response PHOTOGRAPHY

Push/Stop, Free Bird

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River X AD to Vine

DEAKIN IN FOLDER

Deakin Estate wines are crafted from family owned vineyards that lie in the Murray Darling region of Australia. Here, the river weaves across the land, bringing life to our vines. Rich, fertile soils and a warm, sunny climate create a perfect environment for growing quality fruit to make these delicious wines.

LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

BATTER UP! As we settle into hibernation season, it is important to have provisions on hand for unexpected snow days, such as warm blankets, sweaters, socks and extra books. But most important of all is a big batch of cocktail batter in the fridge for “emergency” hot buttered rum. Most people think batter is only good for cookies, cakes and fish and chips. But it is essential to certain classic winter drinks like the Tom and Jerry and (of course) hot buttered spirits. The key to giving these drinks a smooth consistency is a properly made batter. “Many people think hot buttered rum is hot water, rum and butter mixed together with some spice,” says Justin Taylor, General Manager at the Cascade Room in Vancouver. “You can make it that way, but you won’t end up with a really good product or a balanced cocktail. I know many people who think they don’t like the drink, but I think either they’ve had a bad one or just can’t wrap their head around the idea.” But Taylor’s changed quite a few minds with J.T.’s Hot Buttered Rum Mix, his signature butter batter. It became so popular that it is now sold at the Cascade (seasonally, with partial proceeds going to the Fawkes Academy, a school for children with autism spectrum disorder). What started out as a homemade gift for friends and family soon took on a life of its own. Last year, he bottled and sold 1,000 jars. Although unusual on the West Coast, hot buttered rum is a winter staple in Newfoundland where Taylor grew up. “It actually comes from my grandmother,” he recalls. “When the Taylor family would get together, we’d all pile into her house and hot buttered rum was always going around. The kids would have it with hot water instead of rum. We also discovered you can put it anywhere: on your toast, pancakes and waffles.” Although Taylor’s grandmother’s recipe is simple (butter, sugar, spice and salt), he encourages home bar chefs to get creative. “Its base is like a blank canvas,” Taylor explained. “You could use cardamom, put some chili in it, get vanilla involved.” Hot buttered rum also works brilliantly with any brown liquor, except spiced spirits, which are too sweet. “I think part of the reason for its comeback is that you can put your own twist on it,” he said. 6 SPRING 2020

HOT BUTTERED RUM

2 6 1 1

oz dark rum (not spiced) oz boiling water tbsp compound butter* cinnamon stick

Scoop compound butter into a pre-warmed coffee mug. Add boiling water and stir to dissolve. Add rum and garnish with a cinnamon stick.

*COMPOUND BUTTER

1/4 2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2

lb unsalted butter, softened but not melted cups brown sugar tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground ginger tsp ground nutmeg tsp ground allspice tsp salt

Add all ingredients to a mixing bowl and cream together with a wooden spoon or electric mixer. Divide mixture into sterilized mason jars. Seal with lid and keep refrigerated. Yields approximately 500 ml — enough for about 24 cocktails. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES

NEW

PREMIUM SAKE

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SAKE IN FOLDER

Easy to drink, Manga sakeis a high quality Junmai. Originating from the brithplace of sake in Japan and produced by a famous and highly respected japanese sake brewery dating from the 19th century Meiji era.

MUST TRY DANIEL YETMAN

2 DARK LEAFY GREENS YOU’RE NOT EATING… YET HOW MANY DARK GREEN LEAFY VEGETABLES CAN YOU NAME OFF THE TOP OF YOUR HEAD? You can probably rattle

off the common ones such as spinach, lettuce and kale. However, there are plenty of other equally healthy options that you can include when cooking. Adding these two nutrient-dense vegetables to your recipes can help you expand your culinary repertoire while fueling your body with essential vitamins and minerals.

BOK CHOY

People in China and Eastern Asia have cultivated bok choy for hundreds of years. However, it’s becoming more common in North American cuisine as well. You can likely find bok choy and baby bok choy in the Asian section of your local grocery store. A cup of this antioxidant-rich vegetable contains only 20 calories, but it packs 64 percent of your Daily Value (DV) of vitamin K, 59 percent of your vitamin C and 40 percent of your

8 SPRING 2020

vitamin A. It also contains more than 10 percent of your daily folate, calcium, vitamin B6, potassium, iron and manganese. To maximize bok choy’s flavour, try lightly steaming it or adding it to a stir fry or soup. Here’s an easy stir fry recipe to get you started.

MUSTARD GREENS

You’re probably already familiar with the spicy kick Dijon mustard can add to your recipes. Did you know you can also add mustard greens to your salad to give it a peppery and bitter taste. One cup of mustard greens contains a spectacular 922 percent of your DV of vitamin K, 96 percent of your vitamin A and 47 percent of your vitamin C. It also contains more than 10 percent your daily manganese, calcium and vitamin E. Want to include more mustard into your diet? Get started with a simple salad with apple cider and Dijon dressing. For more cooking and recipe ideas visit www.quench.me. ×

LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

THE WINTER OF OUR BEER-CONTENT Well, that is it for the holidays. Eggnog, peppermint chocolate, family gatherings and massive holiday feasts are over, leaving us with plain old January and February. As fun as a good snow day can be, this time of year can bring many people down: it is when we realize that Winter will be staying around much longer than we may like.

One reason not to feel down is the many opportunities to get nice and cosy indoors at home or in your favourite pub, and enjoy some wonderful beers that will help you embrace or escape the season. First up, your usual winter beer suspects: imperial stouts. Try Guelph-based Wellington Brewery’s Imperial Russian Stout, Gravenhurst’s Sawdust City Brewing’s Dark Voyage to Uranus Chocolate Oak Aged Long, and Dieu de Ciel’s Péché Mortel (if you are lucky enough to find it outside of Quebec). These beers offer a fantastic amount of rich dark chocolate and roasted coffee notes and a low alcohol content, which will be sure to keep you warm and cosy during the cold winter days.

The logical second choice is Belgian beers. Tripels from the likes of Westmalle and La Trappe offer a bright colour with some lovely hints of spice and Belgian candi sugar that give these beers a complex, warming flavour. For something a little darker, Dubbels like Chimay Premiere and Unibroue Maudite offer notes of bread pudding and cloves, and are perfect for a slow sipping session in your comfiest chair. And for a beer long said to be one of the best out there: Duvel. This strong pale beer has a nice boozy character combined with the flavours of apricot and banana. Lastly, if you want to fight the season and keep things light and bright, you cannot beat a beer filled with light

colours and bright flavours. A personal favourite is California-based Sierra Nevada’s Hazy Little Thing. This wonderful IPA pours unfiltered, bright orange and tastes like a veritable fruit salad. Sharp jabs of grapefruit dance well with notes of peach, mango and lemon to make for a refreshing burst of sunshine to fight off those winter blues for good. A second personal favourite is Toronto-based Amsterdam Brewing’s Space Invader IPA. Lots of grapefruit citrus notes are followed by a slight apricot flavour and a big hit of pine towards the end. For a 6% ABV beer, it tastes rather light, and is a bright, juicy option for getting your head out of the glum snowy season. × SPRING 2020 9

ALIGOTÉ...GETS MY OKAY by Konrad Ejbich

Much of the wine-drinking world looks down on Aligoté. So, why do so many vignerons in Burgundy grow it on land they could use for Chardonnay or Pinot Noir?

Say “Burgundy” and winelovers’ thoughts veer to great Chardonnays like Corton-Charlemagne, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, and to phenomenal Pinot Noirs like Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Musigny, Pommard and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC). No wonder. These are destination wines that, once tasted, can never be forgotten. Engaged wine aficionados dream of tasting them, achieve euphoria when they finally do and then rhapsodize about the experience forever after. Personally, I recall every detail of my visit to the DRC back in 1997. I remember meeting Aubert de Villaine at the gate and it taking a very long time before he opened it for us. When I close my eyes and go back to that moment, I can still taste the ’96s from the barrel in their full richness. I cherish the brief tour of the bunker-library of old vintages and the tasting game of “identify the vintage” when we were poured a sample of white wine. Some thought it was a barrel sample, others gave it a few years, while I guessed 1990. It turned out to be a 1970 Montrachet from the library. I almost wet myself with amazement and joy. I still see the golden colour, feel the smooth texture, smell the lush, youthful fruit and relive the succulent swallow. But this article isn’t about that. 10 SPRING 2020

Last year over lunch in Meursault, I asked Cécile Mathiaud, the public relations director for Vins de Bourgogne, which was the most-planted grape variety after Chardonnay and Pinot Noir ... fully expecting to hear Gamay. Nope. Her answer was Aligoté. “What about Passe-Tout-Grains — the famous Bourgogne blend of twothirds Gamay and one third Pinot Noir, which some folks know as PTG?” I asked. “That wine has inspired producers in other countries, including Canada, to emulate the blend. What about all those lovely reds from Mâcon?” “We’re making less and less Mâcon Rouge,” said Mathiaud. According to her

research, Aligoté accounts for six percent of all the plantings in the Burgundy region, although it comprises 100 percent in the Bouzeron appellation. Bouzeron is the northernmost of the five village appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise — the others are Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny. And it’s the only appellation in all of France for Aligoté. For the record, the Bouzeron appellation covers only 56 hectares. Any Chardonnay grown within the village must be labelled “Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise.” The most famous estate in Bouzeron is Domaine de Villaine, widely seen as being responsible for Aligoté’s revived reputation. In the early 1970s, de Villaine

ESTELLE AND MICHEL PRUNIER FROM DOMAINE MICHEL PRUNIER ET FILLE

and his American wife, Pauline, wanted to live apart from the daily hubbub of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. They found a quiet house in the nearby village of Bouzeron, just two kilometres south of the Côte-d’Or appellations of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, and a short drive to their other, more famous property. The small estate came with a vineyard that yielded some very good Aligoté. For the past 15 years, Domaine de Villaine has been run by nephew Pierre de Benoist, who has become a potent spokeperson for the variety. The ancient vineyard was planted with Aligoté Doré, a pre-phylloxera variety, for which de Benoist now has established a nursery to preserve and promote the old vines. Bouzeron is also the only village in all of Burgundy where Aligoté is grown on the slopes. Everywhere else, it is relegated to the flattest and lowest vineyards, while the better locations are saved for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. “In the old days, Aligoté had a bad reputation; it was the lowest grade of wine. You had to put Crème de Cassis into it to drink it,” says Aurélie Nudant of Domaine Nudant in the village of Ladoix-Serrigny. “Today, we work Aligoté

the same way we work the Chardonnay grapes, in the vineyard and in the winery. So, it’s really two separate grape varieties that are as good as each other.” ONE GROWER I MET SPOKE OF ALIGOTÉ’S RENAISSANCE over the past

few decades, particularly as regional temperatures have risen, and a new generation of growers has shown interest. An association of young growers called Les Aligoteurs was formed a few years ago. They organize tasting events throughout the region and promote the variety on Facebook. At Château de la Greffière, young Xavier Greuzard sums up his feelings: “For one thing, you always know what you have in your glass. It is always crisp and fresh with tremendous tension, no matter who the producer is. Every Aligoté wine has this crispness. With Chardonnay, you can pick early, you can pick late — or anywhere in between. Chardonnay can vary from producer to producer. With Aligoté, you always get a fresh wine with high acidity ... perfect for seafood.” Stéphane Ponsard inherited a few acres of Aligoté. He now runs his fatherin-law’s Domaine Claude Nouveau in the heart of Côte de Beaune. It would have been easy to replant with Pinot Noir, but

Ponsard chose to keep the Aligoté. “I grow it because it makes a wine that is relatively dry, relatively acidic, and that pairs brilliantly with seafood and grilled fish.” Estelle Prunier of Domaine Michel Prunier et Fille in the village of Auxey-Duresses likes to serve it alongside rich foods with garlic and parsley, like Jambon persillé (a rich, garlicky ham terrine) or Escargots à la Bourguignonne (snails in a garlic-herb butter). “The acidity in the Aligoté easily cuts through strong flavours,” she says, adding, “I also serve it with shellfish like oysters and scallops, where there is a higher iodine content, whereas I prefer Chardonnay for fish and the sweeter meats of seafood like shrimps, langoustines or lobster.” De Benoist, who loves to pair the wine with bone marrow, recommends serving Aligoté fresh as an aperitif. In classic French wine rhapsodizing, he describes his top Aligoté experience: “The wine arrives to a kind of verticality and escapes the Earth’s gravity, which allows it to express a celestial expression of the terroir, which is always more complex and dense.” Now that wine lovers have another grape from Burgundy to swoon over, let’s see if it’s possible to out-rhapsodize the French winemaker. × SPRING 2020 11

FOR by Michael Apstein

ALL

OCCASIONS

Though Claude Terrail, the former owner of the legendary Tour d’Argent restaurant in Paris, is reported to have said, “There is no party without Champagne,” you needn’t wait for a party to enjoy it. That’s why I’m writing about Champagne after the Christmas/New Year’s holidays, the less-than-onemonth-long period in which the vast amount of Champagne is consumed.

Outside of the holiday period, Champagne consumption is usually reserved for special occasions. Sommeliers to whom I’ve spoken report that at least two-thirds of sparkling wine sales in restaurants appear to be related to celebrations. In comparison, only a trivial amount is consumed at other times. In reality, Champagne is not just about celebration and holiday parties. Nothing enlivens a simple dinner like the pop of a Champagne cork. Nothing says “welcome” to friends who stop in unexpectedly as that distinctive sound. My advice: always — always — keep a bottle of bubbly in the refrigerator. Champagne is great with food. Indeed, when in doubt, serve Champagne. It goes perfectly with virtually every dish, from sushi or other crudo to a meaty steak. Even pizza, as Danny Meyer, New York restauranteur extraordinaire, has shown at Marta, where pizza and Champagne are a focus. The bubbles and acidity refresh and invigorate the palate. I’ve consumed Champagne with pleasure throughout meals featuring everything from the ever-present “small plates” offerings to multi-course tasting menus featuring so-called fusion cuisine to more traditional three-course meals. Indeed, it is the ideal choice for those meals where a plethora of flavours appear on the same table. Of course, Champagne is delightful by itself. And you don’t need a crowd to enjoy it. All you need is a Champagne stopper. This inexpensive device will change the way you think of Cham12 SPRING 2020

pagne, transforming it from a “special occasion” beverage to a nightly aperitif. With it, for example, you can spread the cost of a bottle of Pol Roger NV Brut, which is widely available for about $75, over three nights as you and your significant other each enjoy a four-ounce pour each evening. A Champagne stopper looks like an oversized bottle cap with short wings that clamp under the rim of any bottle of Champagne. It creates a very tight seal, which maintains the fizz for several days. It’s easy to use — both attaching and removing it from the bottle is a cinch. It keeps Champagne fresh and bubbly for at least three days. If, by chance, the effervescence has dissipated before you’ve finished the bottle, the still wine that remains will prove just the thing for deglazing a pan. Now that I’m done with my pep talk, let’s delve into what’s in the bottle. CHAMPAGNE, LIKE ALL TOP FRENCH WINE, TAKES ITS NAME FROM A PLACE, IN THIS CASE THE EPONYMOUS REGION ABOUT 100 MILES EAST OF PARIS. As is the custom with French

appellation origine controllée (AOC) wines, regulations mandate which grapes can be used. The red Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and the white Chardonnay, alone or in combination, are the primary grapes. (A few other varieties are allowed, but rarely used.) If made entirely from Chardonnay, the Champagne will be labelled

AURÉLIEN LAHERTE, THE SEVENTH GENERATION VIGENERONS AT LAHERTE FRÈRES, IS USING PINOT MEUNIER TO MAKE HIS ULTRADITION BRUT ROSÉ.

SPRING 2020 13

JEAN MILAN IS LOCATED IN OGER, A GRAND CRU VILLAGE IN THE CÔTES DES BLANCS WHERE VINEYARDS ARE PLANTED ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY WITH CHARDONNAY.

14 SPRING 2020

Blanc de Blancs. If made entirely from the other two grapes, it will be labelled Blanc de Noirs and be clear, not rosé, since the juice of practically all red grapes is clear. Rosé Champagne comes from pressing red grapes gently to extract a hint of colour. Champagne starts its life like any white wine — yeast added to grape juice ferments the grape sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide, which is released into the air. Then, the winemaker blends the white wines made from different parcels, puts the wine into the familiar Champagne bottle, adds a touch more sugar and yeast, and stoppers the bottle. The yeast does its thing — the secondary fermentation — producing a little more alcohol and carbon dioxide, which this time remains in the wine since it cannot escape from the closed bottle. The bottle, now containing dead yeast and dissolved carbon dioxide, ages in the cellar for at least 12 months and usually far longer. This aging on the lees (aka, dead yeast) is critical because it imparts enormous complexity to Champagne, which is why most producers exceed the minimum requirement imposed by regulations. Regulations also stipulate that the secondary fermentation must be done in the bottle, not in a large tank under pressure, as is the tradition for Prosecco, for example. After aging, the bottles are slowly inverted and turned over many weeks to allow the dead yeast to accumulate under the cork, a process called riddling. Next, the neck of the bottle, still inverted, is frozen, encasing the dead yeast in a core of frozen Champagne. The bottle is then turned upright, the cork removed and the core of frozen Champagne shoots out of the bottle since it is under pressure. The bottle is quickly filled with a touch of wine and a little sugar — but no more yeast — and

recapped. The amount of added sugar at the end — the dosage — determines whether the Champagne is labelled Nature or Zero Dosage (no added sugar), Brut (less than 12 grams/litre, or one to two teaspoons per bottle), Extra-Dry (12 to 17 g/l), Dry or Sec (17 to 32 g/l), Demi-Sec (32 to 50 g/l) or Doux (more than 50 g/l). European regulations mandate that no other sparkling wine — such as Franciacorta from Italy, Crémant from other parts of France, Sekt from Germany — can be labelled Champagne even if made by the same method. Since the U.S. does not subscribe to those regulations, California sparkling wines are still labelled “Champagne,” though those produced by Schramsberg, one of California’s top producers, and the subsidiaries of French Champagne firms, such as Domaine Carneros and Domaine Chandon, correctly opt not to use the term.

JEAN MILAN GRAND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS EXTRA-BRUT NV ($56)

PRODUCERS CONSIDER THEIR NON-VINTAGE (NV) CHAMPAGNE, DESPITE BEING THE LEAST EXPENSIVE OF THE LINE, TO BE THEIR FLAGSHIP BECAUSE IT REFLECTS THE HOUSE STYLE CONSISTENTLY, YEAR TO YEAR. For NV

PIERRE GIMONNET ET FILS 1ER CRU BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS CUVÉE CUIS NV ($73)

Champagne, the winemaker blends still wines from the current vintage with still wines from previous vintages (reserve wines), which have been saved in hermetically sealed tanks, to achieve the house style. This blend of wines then undergoes the secondary fermentation. When the climate produces particularly noteworthy grapes, producers use only those grapes (and no reserve wine) to produce a vintage Champagne. Though the vintage Champagne continues to reflect the style of the house — for instance, Bollinger’s will still be big and bold, whereas Moët’s will be more delicate — it also transmits the character of that vintage. My favourite recent vintages are 2013, 2012, 2008, 2006, 2004 and 2002. Like other great wines, vintage Champagne develops beautifully in the bottle with age, as exemplified by the 1996 Pol Roger I just had with dinner. Indeed, if you find 2008s still on the market, snap them up if your budget allows because this great vintage is just hitting its stride at 12 years of age. Monikers like Premier or Grand Cru on a Champagne label indicate the quality of the grapes. The region has a unique — and quirky, I might add — way of determining the quality, and subsequent price, of grapes. Entire villages, not individual vineyards, within the region are ranked and classified. So, for example, if the grapes all came from villages classified as Grand Cru, then the resulting Champagne would be so labelled. Additionally, most houses produce a high-end Champagne referred to as a Tête de Cuvée. Moët & Chandon makes Dom Pérignon, Taittinger’s is Comtes de Champagne and Louis Roederer’s is Cristal, to name just three. These wines are always vintage Champagne and made only from the very best grapes, most, if not all, of which will have come from the company’s own vineyards. To make most Champagne, the big producers must buy grapes from growers because the vineyards they own don’t supply enough. Though these Tête de Cuvée Champagnes vary in style (Cristal is bolder whereas Dom Pérignon is more delicate), all are exceptional wines and benefit from prolonged bottle aging. The 1990 Comtes de Champagne, at 30 years of age, is still simply gorgeous, robust yet elegant.

Jean Milan, which dates its origins to the mid-19th century, is located in the village of Oger, one of the Grand Cru villages in the Côte de Blancs, whose vineyards are planted almost exclusively with Chardonnay. It’s unusual to see non-vintage Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne, especially at this price. This one is a blend of Jean Milan wines from the 2014 and 2015 vintages and was aged for about 3 years before release. The Extra-Brut designation signifies a very low dosage, 4 g/l. Though quite intense, the elegance of Chardonnay comes through. The spine of acidity keeps it fresh. A fantastic buy!

Blanc de Blancs (literally, “white from whites”) has no legal meaning outside of Champagne, where it means that only Chardonnay can be used. The expectation, which is fulfilled dramatically with this wine, is a Champagne of purity and elegance. Gimonnet’s also has a creamy texture, precision and length. Though a perfect summertime Champagne because of its refreshing and light-on-thepalate style, I look forward to drinking it year-round since I have a case in my cellar. AYALA BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT 2007 ($107)

Though based in Aÿ, the name of this Champagne house comes from its founder, a Spaniard, Edmond de Ayala. The house has been owned by Bollinger since 2005, but the style of Ayala — fresh and light — couldn’t be more different. At first glance, it seems unusual that Ayala produces a Blanc de Blancs, given its location in Aÿ, a Grand Cru village famous for its Pinot Noir. But they clearly know what they’re doing, since this is a dazzling wine. Creamy and intense, it’s nonetheless light and airy, dancing on the palate. It’s a paradigm of power and elegance. Exceptional length makes conversation pause. Though I’d hate to say $100+ is a bargain, this Ayala compares favourably with many far more expensive, super-premium bottlings. LAHERTE FRÈRES ULTRADITION BRUT ROSÉ NV ($67)

Made entirely from Pinot Meunier, the least noble of the trio of Champagne grapes, this powerful, yet graceful rosé Champagne, shows how that grape, in the right hands, can excel. The Pinot Meunier comes from old vines, which likely explains the wine’s elegance because that grape is more often used to bring fruitiness, not finesse, to the blend. There’s certainly powerful fruitiness — wild strawberry-like flavours — framed beautifully by a straight spine. Barrel-fermentation and aging along with a hefty dose of reserve wines helps explain the power. But it’s the wine’s elegance and finish that makes you pause. Great as an aperitif, it’s also a wonderful choice for the entire meal. SPRING 2020 15

Though the so-called “grower” Champagne has been around for decades, its popularity has soared recently as consumers seek “artisanal” production in all aspects of food and wine. In contrast to the big-name producers who buy a significant quantity of grapes to make their Champagne, these growers produce Champagne solely from their own vineyards. The big houses blend wines from many areas to achieve consistency of style. In contrast, grower Champagne reflects the specific area in which the grapes are grown, much like in Burgundy, because far less blending is involved. CONSUMERS OFTEN ASK WHETHER GROWER CHAMPAGNES ARE “BETTER” THAN THE ONES PRODUCED BY THE BIG HOUSES. I don’t think you can generalize. Grower Cham-

pagne will be less uniform — which is either a good or a bad thing, depending on your perspective. They are certainly a welcome addition because they add another dimension to the category. Not surprisingly, Champagne producers are responding to climate change, a threat to the character of the entire category. After all, 200-plus years ago the climate helped, at least in part, to create the category. Then, it was too cold in the region to ripen grapes for still wine, so producers “invented” secondary fermentation to make a palatable and saleable wine. Now, it may be getting too warm. Simply stated, acidity, one of the hallmarks of Champagne, falls as grapes ripen faster in warmer weather. In addition, climate change brings with it a change in the local

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ecology and new vine pests. Producers are responding in the vineyards by using more biodynamic techniques, which they say allow the vines to handle warmer weather better and adapt to a changing ecosystem. They are also experimenting in the cellar with techniques that enhance perceived acidity (blocking the bacterial conversion of malic acid to gentler lactic acid). Finally, the region’s trade association, the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC), announced a bold program in 2016 to look at developing other grape varieties that might be better suited to a warmer environment. In addition to responding to climate change, Champagne producers are trying to expand their products to broaden their appeal. Several companies are making a cuvée meant to be poured over ice. Moët & Chandon’s Ice Impérial ($80) is now mainstream by virtue of its availability in French supermarkets and here in Canada. Same with Veuve Clicquot’s Rich ($88). Both have a higher dosage and a sweeter profile. For more in-depth knowledge about Champagne, pick up a copy of Ed McCarthy’s Champagne for Dummies. (Full disclosure, he’s a friend, but I assure you the book is not just for dummies.) In 2020, put a little sparkler in your life. First, buy a Champagne stopper. Then, if you still subscribe to the notion that you need “an event” to drink Champagne, celebrate Wednesday (or Thursday) with a Champagne from a producer you’ve never heard of. ×

COMING OF AGE by Michaela Morris It’s midday and a glorious 30˚C in early October. I am standing by an infinity pool perched over steep vineyards that plunge into the mighty Douro River below.

The temptation to take a dip far outweighs any desire for a heady Port — despite being in the heart of the production zone. Don’t get me wrong, I love nursing a glass fireside or after a meal. But, at this moment, a thirst-quenching dry white would be much more appropriate. Fortunately, on cue, a deliciously chilled bottle arrives — and it’s local. I am in the Douro Valley at the behest of the “Douro Boys.” This endearing moniker refers to the gents at the helm of Niepoort, Quinta Vale Dona Maria, Quinta do Vallado, Quinta do Crasto and Quinta do Vale Meão. This quintet has been working together for the last 15 years to broadcast the region’s dry table wines. Before Portugal joined the European Union, this style was practically non-existent and sweet fortified wine ruled the Douro Valley almost exclusively until the mid-90s. While the Douro Boys aren’t the only ones to have broken the mould, their collective effort helped pave the way for others and has brought enormous recognition to the Douro Valley specifically and to Portuguese table wines in general. Despite the departure in style, there is still a connection with the Port tradition. Predominantly red, the Douro’s wines are hewn from the same schist and granite slopes that boast a dizzying plethora of native grapes. Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo), Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca are just some of the varieties that might show up in the blend. “Until the mid-’70s, vineyards were planted at high density with diverse varieties — more than 30 — mixed in the same plot,” describes Francisco Ferreira, winemaker and co-owner of Quinta do Vallado. With upwards of 7,000 vines per hectare, SPRING 2020 17

QUINTA DO CRASTO WHITE 2018, DOURO DOC ($20)

Rabigato gives assertive acidity to the rounder, weightier Gouveio with some Viosinho lending vibrant citrus. While aged mostly in stainless steel, 15% remains in used oak barrels with some gentle lees stirring for a textured creaminess. NIEPOORT COCHE 2017, DOURO BRANCO DOC ($80)

Niepoort’s top white could easily be mistaken for white Burgundy. A field blend from 80-year-old vines grown at 600 metres. Captivating flinty, smoky and nutty aromas lead to pear and wet stone with racy acidity giving piercing precision. QUINTA DO VALLADO SOUSÃO 2015, DOURO DOC ($40)

Vallado has backed off on the extraction of Sousão since its first release a decade ago. Charmingly rustic but plenty of juicy black plum to flesh out vigorous tannins. Punctuated with notes of vanilla and dried herbs. Fresh, mouth-scrubbing and tangy. QUINTA DO CRASTO RESERVA OLD VINES 2015, DOURO DOC ($40)

Jokingly referred to as Crasto’s “trash bin,” this wine assembles fruit from 42 small parcels of precious old vines. Opens slowly to reveal liquorice, baked earth, smoky tea and dark currants. Concentrated fruit backed by vibrant acidity and seamless, mouth-caressing tannins. QUINTA DO VALLADO VINHA DA COROA 2015, DOURO DOC ($70)

From a northeast exposed site with 100-year-old vines, this field blend of more than 30 grapes is fermented with 50% whole bunches. Firm, dry and powerful with pretty rose and violet lifting forest berries and earthy nuances. QUINTA DONA VALE MARIA VINHA DA FRANCISCA 2016, DOURO DOC ($140)

A generous 50% Sousão is rounded out by equal portions of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Rufete and Tinta Francisca. Fairly oak-driven but the fruit remains bright and fresh. Dense plum and black cherry are dusted with powdered cocoa and mint. QUINTA DO VALE MEÃO MONTE MEÃO VINHA DOS NOVOS 2016, DOURO DOC ($55)

This 100% Touriga Nacional used to be blended into Vale Meão’s Meandro cuvée but Olazabal felt it was too imposing. Beautifully fragrant nose demonstrating intense violets. Packed with fruit yet remains buoyant and fresh. Very well-integrated oak and polished tannins frame nicely. 18 SPRING 2020

there is no room for a tractor to navigate these old vineyards so all the work must be done painstakingly by hand. And at harvest, the different varieties are picked and vinified together as a field blend — red and white grapes, with underripe and overripe berries ideally balancing each other out. Vineyards established in the mid-’70s and beyond are less densely planted, which allows for mechanization — an important consideration in a region where labour shortages are a concerning reality. At the same time, growers started planting grape varieties in separate plots, which means different varieties can each be picked at optimal ripeness and blended after vinification in measured proportions. Both newer and older vineyards are sources for the Douro’s dry table wines (as they are for Port). Despite the challenges of the older plantings, there is a certain cachet associated with old vines. “They are always very low yielding, giving concentration and structure,” asserts Ferreira, explaining that the deep root systems result in more consist quality than younger vines. “Even in lesser vintages, we can have fantastic wines from very old parcels.” Francisco Javier de Olazabal, owner of Quinta do Vale Meão, places less importance on vine age. The estate is located in Douro Superior, the eastern-most subregion of the Douro. Vineyards have been established here more recently than in the Douro’s heartland of Cima Corgo and the property’s 100 hectares are planted entirely with separate parcels for each different grape variety. “It’s not as simple as saying old vines equal great wine,” he declares, pointing out that there are poor soils in the area. “Furthermore, having 30 different grape varieties in a wine does not mean quality,” he continues. “It depends on the 30; it depends on the place; it depends on a lot of different things.” NEVERTHELESS, WINERIES, SUCH AS QUINTA DO CRASTO, WHO ARE FORTUNATE TO POSSESS PRIME OLDER VINEYARDS GO TO GREAT EXTREMES TO PRESERVE THEM. Quinta do Crasto’s iconic Vinha Maria Teresa, which

is more than 100 years old, is a mere 4.7 hectares. Each of the 29,822 vines has its own GPS tracking tag, which the winery uses to determine the vineyard’s genetic makeup. So far, they have identified 49 different varieties growing in this single plot. “When a vine dies, we replant the same genotype; otherwise, we would lose the genetic mapping of vineyard,” says winemaker Manuel Lobo. Furthermore, Quinta do Crasto continues to plant field blends in some of its newer vineyards. “That is part of the Douro, so it is what we decided to focus on.” Preserving the genetic richness of the Douro’s viticultural landscape has equal merits to planting out varieties in separate plots. The latter has contributed to a better understanding of the Douro’s many grapes and has helped producers fine-tune their blends. It has also led to the production of single-varietal wines — definitely a departure from the region’s traditions. “We have fantastic wines from single varieties but they are more unidimensional in terms of flavours and aromas,” suggests Ferreira, presenting a range from Quinta do Vallado. Olazabal is more bullish. “Some of the greatest wines of the world come from a single grape variety. Why can’t we do that?” he questions. While not all of the Douro’s varieties are capable of standing on their own, the fresh Touriga Nacional has already

LUÍS PEDRO CÂNDIDO DA SILVA, WINEMAKER AT NIEPOORT

made a name for itself with the best wines demonstrating beautiful balance and elegance. I was also charmed by the deeply coloured, slightly rustic Sousão. With mouth-watering acidity, it is positively hunger inducing and a perfect foil for Portugal’s hearty, meat-driven fare. Tinta Roriz was less convincing, often demonstrating austere fruit and hard tannins, which some producers attribute to the Douro’s schistous soil. At Quinta do Vale Meão, Olazabal crafted the Douro’s first-ever 100 percent Baga. More readily associated with the region of Bairrada, Baga shows up in old Douro vineyards and Olazabal is trying to tame its massive tannins. Experience may coax the best from these and other grapes. The most significant evolution of the Douro’s wines becomes apparent through comparisons between back vintages and new releases. The latter are being crafted less like Port. As Port is fortified during fermentation, it requires assertive and rapid extraction of colour and tannin from the grape skins beforehand. However, applying this technique to table reds can result in a disproportionately stocky frame so gentle, less extractive techniques have been adopted. For some wines, producers also include a portion of whole berries and even bunches. “Instead of hard tannins from grapes, the stems give fresher tannins,” states Ferreira. Getting the extraction right is particularly difficult with field blends due to different levels of ripeness. To manage this challenge, Niepoort’s exceptional Batuta bottling goes through an extended maceration. “We leave the wine on the skins for four to five months to help soften the tannins,” explains Dirk Niepoort. Oak is another area where producers are finding their footing. While wood sometimes still dominates, this is slowly changing.

“We try to match the oak to the grape and the parcel,” says Lobo. “Touriga Nacional is sensitive to oak so you need to be careful with the toast level.” Over time, Quinta do Vale Meão has reduced the percentage of new oak in their top wines while at Quinta Vale Dona Maria, Cristiano van Zeller has recently introduced some larger format barrels for less wood influence. What about the white wine that appeared poolside? That was no mirage. Besides 60-plus red grapes, the Douro counts more than 40 different whites. Long relegated to white Port production, grapes like Arinto, Gouveio, Rabigato, Verdelho and Viosinho are now showing their potential in dry whites. Sometimes oaked and sometimes not, these are mostly blends. “In 10 years, the whites will be even better as we are still learning about the individual varieties,” says Ferreira. What is most surprising in the whites is their vibrant acidity and reasonable alcohol levels for such a hot climate. Altitude certainly contributes to their success. “Whites start being interesting at 400 metres,” explains Luís Pedro Cândido da Silva, winemaker at Niepoort. Quinta do Crasto is pushing even higher with a new 10 ha vineyard reaching up to 630 metres. With a view to the mountains, it is windier, fresher and away from heat and concentration of lower sites. “A few years ago, no one was betting on the Douro whites, including me,” admits Lobo. “It is the new challenge for the Douro — high-altitude whites.” Fully mature men rather than youngsters, the Douro Boys now have experience on their side. However, they haven’t lost their innovative spirit and their wines provide a snapshot of an ever-evolving region where there is much to be discovered. × SPRING 2020 19

A FRENCH STATE OF MIND by W Blake Grey

Napa Valley seems to have reached its greatest heights by essentially disavowing everything the wine world learned from France. But if you look closer, French thinking has actually come to dominate even the most hyper-US region of all. This is the case throughout the world, even as we drink fewer French wines. Since the 1990s, France’s share of the world wine export market has fallen by half, according to the University of Adelaide. But France continues to be the world’s wellspring of wine philosophy. If there’s a good idea about wine marketing, it probably comes from California. And if there’s a successful idea about making a beverage from wine, like Bourbon-barrel-aged wines or wine coolers, it probably comes from California. But if there’s a good idea about making fine wine, if you look far enough back, it probably originated in France. These days that philosophy runs to low-intervention and natural wines. Just over a decade ago, natural wine was a fringe movement led by vignerons in unheralded regions of France. Now, whatever you think of the wines themselves, there’s no denying that the concept has gone viral. You can even find natural wines being made in places where almost all wine is corporate, like Chile. There are some millennial drinkers who think natural wines are the natural order of things. Glou glou — a French expression for “quaffable” — has conquered the English-speaking hipster world. But let’s say hipster wines give you an earache, and you like those big Napa Cabs. Fine. Let’s take a look at French influence there. The 1980s were a “lost decade” for Napa Cabs for two reasons. One, most wineries completely bought into the primacy of the winemaker, rather than the source of grapes. And two, many wineries followed a ripeness formula — from France — harvesting at sugar levels that indicate ripeness in Bordeaux. Because California is much warmer and sunnier, those grapes were underripe. In the 1990s, Napa Cabs really came into their own. Winemakers began harvesting grapes later and the wines turned out better. Many at the time said they were finally loosening the shackles of the Bordeaux way of thinking. However, the 1990s in California also saw the rise of the cult Cabernets, and those are all based on vineyards. Scream20 SPRING 2020

ing Eagle, Harlan Estate, Colgin, Araujo — these pricey bottles are all based on the idea that a piece of land is special, and produces a special wine. This is the epitome of French thinking about wine, in every era: terroir is paramount. Terroir is such a French concept that there isn’t even a great English translation for the word. In fact, I have to use 18 words to explain it: “the combination of soils, climate and other environmental factors that give wine grown on the land its identity.” Terroir wasn’t accepted for decades in North America, and even today, wine corporations like to disavow it, because they want you to buy multi-region blends, which are cheaper and safer to produce, as a bad year or a traumatic event, like wildfires, in one small area will not stop the brand from reaching store shelves every year. Wine corporations are not alone in their disdain for terroir. In 2016, UC Davis professor Mark Matthews published a book with the title Terroir and Other Myths of Winegrowing. Myth or philosophy, the overwhelming majority of producers of fine wine believe in it. “As a young and impatient pup, I got terribly bored when French or Italian winemakers would gas on — and on and on — with a geology lesson about the history and distinctiveness of their soils, when I just wanted to taste the juice and keep things moving,” says California winemaker Randall Grahm. “I have since learned that this uber-geeky geology lesson is profoundly related to what makes great wine great.” You can’t credit biodynamic farming to France: that came from a German philosopher. And organic farming was first conceived by British botanists. But dry farming as a winegrowing philosophy: that is very French, to the point that some French wine regions actually outlaw irrigation. To be sure, there’s more than a little hypocrisy to it from a New World point of view, as France gets plenty of rain during the growing season while California, Argentina and Australia, among other regions, do not. That said, dry farming is increasingly popular even in dry New World regions and French vignerons are the biggest advocates.

“While still nobody really understands the mechanism of the phenomenon of ‘minerality’ or ‘terroir,’ there is no question that grapes that are dry-farmed, organically or biodynamically farmed, and have lots of roots relative to a small volume of fruit, which is the case with most of the great European crus, will produce wines that have a lot more complexity and flavour interest,” Grahm says. The French are also the originators of the idea that great wine is made in the vineyard. That said, there is also a fair amount of winemaking — not viticultural — theory that comes out of France, especially when it comes to the mystical. If you can’t explain why something makes the wine better but you believe that it does, that probably came from France. Take the concrete egg. These are trendy all over the world in high-end wineries. The idea is that the egg shape will create a flow inside, circulating nascent wine through the cap of grape skins and allowing a gentler fermentation process. Rhône vigneron Michel Chapoutier commissioned the first concrete egg in 2001. Recent research has shown that the eggs may be less effective at fluid dynamics than enthusiastic believers have stated, but they still help preserve fruit flavours in the wine because concrete is so effective as insulation. That’s another French idea: concrete tanks for fine wines. Most older wineries disavowed concrete tanks built decades ago, declaring that oak barrels (another French concept, but an old one) were the modern way to ferment wine. But Christian Moueix, proprietor of Château Pétrus, declared nearly 20 years ago that he preferred concrete for his best wines, and the cachet of one of the world’s most famous wines made concrete cool again. Here is one of the most French concepts of all: the idea that a wine should have typicity: that it should resemble an archetype of wines from a region. Not all Puligny-Montrachets should taste the same, but they should all taste like a Puligny-Montrachet. You see echoes of that all over the wine world: that a Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir, or a Finger Lakes Riesling, or a Niagara Peninsula Cabernet Franc, should have a recognizable taste profile. “French winemakers still largely embrace the value of typicity and restraint,” Grahm says. “They are generally not, in the parlance of my Silicon Valley neighbours, ‘disruptors.’ A great wine from a region expresses the region’s distinctiveness and

RANDALL GRAHM

character: its platonic form. While this is a deeply conservative position, and AOC rules can sometimes be quite reactionary — indeed they seem to work against the whole concept of evolution and experimentation — the idea of preserving identity is still for me quite compelling.” This article may make me seem like a Francophile, but really I’m not. Here’s proof: I think the English make excellent cheese, and I don’t really like croissants. And I don’t smoke tobacco. I live in California, and I drink California wine more than a third of the time. I love California wine. We have great terroir. When you find a wine made by winemakers who believe that great wine is made in the vineyard, California wines are spectacular. They can have a fruit-forward, sunny taste profile that can’t be matched by France. The grapes here are special. But letting those special grapes shine without trying to bulk them up with new oak or daily punchdowns: that’s an imported idea. “Great French winemakers are generally correctly humble about their own role in the process,” Grahm says. “‘C’est pas moi; c’est le vignoble.’ And they’re right.” × SPRING 2020 21

THE OTHER SINGLE RED VARIETY

by Tim Pawsey

A glance at the platinum winners at this year’s British Columbia Lieutenant Governor’s Wine Awards yields a snapshot of what’s happening in the Okanagan and beyond.

The platinum designation recalls the original Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in BC Wine, which used to recognize at most only a dozen wines out of several hundred submitted. Considered the cream of the more than 700 wines entered, this year’s platinum winners survived intense scrutiny to make it to the podium. The main takeaways are that Syrah and Pinot Noir continue to capture the imagination of BC winegrowers. However, just as noteworthy are the less prolific varieties that also garnered platinum. The judges singled out a 2017 Touriga Nacional from Moon Curser Vineyards and a 2017 Roussanne from Black Hills Estate as best in their respective classes — namely “Other Single Red Variety” and “Other Single White Variety,” respectively. It’s not unusual for “others” to reap a small share of the top honours; it was a regular occurrence at the original LGs. More importantly, this kind of recognition can help propel a variety to prominence, as was the case with Poplar Grove’s inaugural Cabernet Franc. It was introduced to a wide audience when anointed with the very first platinum medal back in the early days of the neophyte Okanagan Wine Festival. In that era, the variety was all but unknown to BC consumers. As to why a winemaker might opt to work with a specific grape, the reasons can range from sentimental to practical — and everything in between, including terroir and site suitability. But if the resulting wine is well received, it can have a broader impact – sometimes generating 22 SPRING 2020

more plantings within a given region, and even helping to establish a trend. No question, back in the day, Poplar Grove’s achievement inspired others to plant the variety. While originally grown as a blending grape, today numerous wineries make Cabernet Franc as a single variety. CANADA’S NEOPHYTE REGIONS HAVE LITTLE EXCEPT RELATIVELY RECENT HISTORY ON WHICH TO DRAW. Much if

not most of the country’s knowledge has been imparted by folks who learned their viticultural knowledge elsewhere. Few wineries are more adventuresome than Moon Curser, which, in addition to its success with Touriga Nacional, wins regular accolades for several other, lesser known varieties. Owners Chris and Beata Tolley learned viticulture and winemaking at UC Davis, although they also studied and worked around the world. Ask them how come they work with the likes of Touriga, Tannat, Petit Verdot and others, and they’ll tell you there’s no real simple answer. “Except that everything is driven by a kind of ‘I can do that’ mentality,” says Chris Tolley. However, he also notes, “Why do yet another Merlot when we can grow something else and do it really well?” “It’s not really a case of getting a reputation for planting ‘alternative varieties.’ They’re not really ‘alternative’. I kind of resent that, from an international point of view,” he says. “Take Dolcetto; there’s more Dolcetto planted in the world than this valley has grapes.”

Moon Curser’s esoteric portfolio is not to be taken lightly. Tolley owes his decision to plant Touriga Nacional to the Portuguese influence on Oliver and Osoyoos, which includes several neighbours. More to the point, he can also get what he wants relatively easily thanks to some solid connections with nurseries south of the border, who are plugged into UC Davis’ Foundation Plant Services (FPS), a grapevine importing and quarantine facility overseen by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. FPS nurseries propagate vines and offer them to the market. “We decided to plant Tannat and went looking for 1,500 cuttings. That’s a little unusual for California, which likes to see them grafted.” However, Tolley says he wanted (and got) just the cuttings. “We don’t have any problems with Phylloxera here, due mainly to our sandy soils, so we prefer ungrafted vines. And that’s how we get everything. They [UC Davis] have an unbelievable clonal selection. We have none here in Canada and they have everything. Plus, we have to quarantine it, and so on. So we just get it out of the States,” he confides. Tolley’s dad, who hails from Lake Garda, convinced him to plant Corvina Veronese. But it froze on the vine in 2009, at Thanksgiving, with temperatures of minus 9˚C. Those kinds of experiences have made the winemaker more philosophical. “It’s a bad idea to go into making a wine with an idea of what you want to finish with. Because you make what you get,” says Tolley.

STAG’S HOLLOW WINEMAKER, KEIRA LEFRANC

Or, as Beata Tolley says, “You get what you get; you don’t get upset. You just make the wine that the grapes are going to give you.”

and planted Albariño, which is easy to source from Washington State and California, and Tempranillo. “I had a blank slate to work with: it was IN OKANAGAN FALLS, Stag’s Hollow a hay field. I didn’t want to do major varico-founder Larry Gerelus began his quest eties, and Albariño made sense. It winters for alternative varieties when looking well — and it ripens,” he says. for a grape that would work in the glaGerelus also planted Dolcetto there: cier-formed kettle (a kind of hollow) for “Here was an Italian variety that I which the winery is named. Not wishing thought could work and was very rare. to plant a white there, because he says it’s We looked at Sangiovese but I wasn’t too hot, Gerelus opted for Tempranillo. confident it would work.” “It ripens okay if we can get by the first Dolcetto also winters and ripens frost. But climate change is causing prob- well. As for the Teroldego (a parent of lems, with huge variations at the begin- Syrah and possibly related to Pinot Noir) ning and end of the season. Septembers that he planted alongside the Dolcetto, are now very wet and cool: we aren’t get- Gerelus freely admits he “took a real flyting the ripening temperatures we really er.” The winery had been short-shipped need,” he says. Although challenging, 2019 various Tempranillo clones ... “So, the still seems to have produced good results. next one in the alphabet was Teroldego When it came to planting the Shut- — why not take a chance on that?,” he extleworth Creek Vineyard, a later acqui- plains. “I like the grape, though it could sition for Stag’s Hollow, Gerelus de- use a little more heat. But we’re generalcided to stick with the Spanish theme ly happy with the result.”

The winery’s plan to avoid duplicating varieties already heavily planted in the Okanagan is going well: Stag’s Hollow’s portfolio is quite distinct from many other wineries, and very much appreciated by its customers. In fact, the Italian and Spanish varieties, notes Gerelus, “Tend to be the ones that sell quickly. When we open the Tempranillo, it goes out the door. The Dolcetto is a love/hate thing; it appeals to people who like fresh reds with acidity. As for the Albariño, if you like Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll like it.” Interestingly, the Tempranillo is now among the winery’s top-selling wines, and a major part of Stag’s Hollow’s portfolio. And Albariño is now the winery’s second largest white by volume. Most of the wines are sold through the Stag’s Hollow wine shop. Gerelus says he had hoped they would sell better outside the winery, but often it’s a question of wine knowledge. SPRING 2020 23

“People know what Rioja is, but they don’t necessarily know that it’s Tempranillo,” he says. It’s unlikely that Don Triggs thought he was starting a trend when he decided to plant Grüner Veltliner at his state-ofthe-art Culmina Family Estate Winery. At the time, he was developing one of the Okanagan’s highest elevation vineyards, Margaret’s Bench, at 595 metres. Riesling was an obvious choice and Chardonnay was already planted at the lower levels. Triggs, who knew that the best Austrian Grüner Veltliner is grown on steeply sloped, terrassen vineyards, took a calculated risk in planting Grüner — which he then referred to as “the love child of Riesling and Chardonnay.” Now, after just a few vintages, Culmina’s Unicus Grüner Veltliner is widely known. Other wineries, such as Osoyoos’ Bordertown and the Fraser Valley’s Singletree, have also opted to plant Grüner, and there are likely more to come. VANESSA VINEYARD WINEMAKER HOWARD SOON RECALLS HOW SANDHILL WINES’ SMALL LOTS PROGRAM CAME TO BE IN THE 1990S. Then Calo-

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RosehillWineCellars.com 24 SPRING 2020

na Vineyards’ winemaker, Soon was working closely with Jim Wise at Burrowing Owl, which later sold a portion of its vineyard to Calona Vineyards to establish Sandhill. Calona had long wanted to forge a terroir-based presence in the Okanagan, and even had drawn up plans — that never came to fruition — to build a stand-alone estate winery. Confident that Burrowing Owl’s Bordeaux varieties were well established, Wise was keen to try other ideas, says Soon. Along with vineyard manager Robert Goltz, they elected to trial small quantities of Italian varieties in a hot spot at the top of Burrowing Owl 1, at the very top of the rise that slopes steeply to the southwest. “Wise and Goltz planted six short rows, two each of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Sangiovese,” says Soon. “It wasn’t my idea; it was Jim’s. He wanted to show that Burrowing Owl was the best vineyard site in Canada.” The vineyard team never actually told Calona’s senior management about what they were up to. “We kept it quiet,” says Soon, noting that the varieties that were planted came with their own particular challenges. “Sangiovese is hard to control.

It grows a lot of vine cane and leaves.” He goes on to explain that the poor, sandy soils at Burrowing Owl Vineyards allowed them to control the vigour with water. “Nebbiolo was a fail because the grapes never turned colour. In my opinion, Barbera makes a better wine. But Sangiovese is easier to sell — and more storied,” says Soon, noting that the name means “Blood of Jove” in Etruscan. In time, Soon revealed, to the folks in charge at Calona, the Syrah (from Richard Cleave’s Phantom Creek Vineyard) and the Burrowing Owl grown Sangiovese. Needless to say, they were more than impressed. And the Sandhill Wines’ Small Lots program took shape. Eventually, 4.5 acres each of Sangiovese and Barbera were planted on Burrowing Owl 2 (right below the mass of rock known as Saddle Mountain) and gained some impressive results. That vineyard became Sandhill 2. Along with the Syrah made by Alex Nichol at his Naramata winery, the Sandhill and Burrowing Owl Syrah wines were early indicators that parts of the Okanagan were ideally suited to Syrah. And there’s no question that Sandhill’s Small Lots Italian program motivated others. The high point, and ultimate proof, for Soon came much later, at a Vancouver International Wine Festival tasting that included Sangiovese from around the world alongside wines from Italy’s Ruffino. The Sandhill Small Lots 2005 earned high praise from the Chianti winemaker, who hailed it as “what Sangiovese should be.” So how come Sangiovese hasn’t been adopted by more growers? One reason, says Soon, is that it’s challenging “to grow a thin-skinned, large-berried variety into a good red wine. The ratio of juice to skin is much lower in Cabernet Sauvignon, for example.” Those early releases of the “black label” Small Lots wines, whether Sangiovese, Barbera or Syrah or later blends, provided another litmus test of the Okanagan’s ability to produce premium red wines. Just over a decade prior, no one had ever believed that to be possible. All of which just goes to show, as often as not, those who have the courage of their convictions, and think outside of the box, are well rewarded. ×

MEAT

AND

by Tod Stewart

POTATOES

TASTE IS AN INTERESTING THING. In some cases, you’re in or

you’re out. I’ve eaten crickets, ants, strange sea creatures, small and large meaty bits, and other things I’d rather not think about trying again … at least while sober. But I can’t do cucumber. I can’t do watermelon. However, I love cilantro. You probably think it tastes like soap. I know, I know, what the hell? So it is with bivalves. Specifically, oysters. I’m an “oyster boy.” Many of you are not. I get that. Eating an oyster is like, well, I dunno … eating something out of a sci-fi movie (where a horde of them would likely be eating you rather than vice versa). Still, if you’re going to scarf down a few of these things (please, “naked” or just with a shot of lemon or vodka or Bowmore scotch), make sure they are as fresh as possible. Like, right out of the Atlantic Ocean on the breeze-cooled shore of Prince Edward Island. Presently, I’m a rather decent swim from any shore. In fact, I’m out on an oyster barge where my host is handing me a freshly shucked oyster that, until a few seconds ago, was slumbering peacefully (I can only assume) in the cool, briny waters of New London Bay. It was the annual PEI International Shellfish Festival that drew me here, and now, on the day before the start of the show, I’m getting a firsthand look at the business of fishing for, not only oysters, but for mussels as well.

While the Festival is a showcase for some of the tasty aquatic beasties the island is known for — namely oysters, mussels and lobsters — there’s more to PEI’s bounty than just stuff from the sea. One of its most important edibles may be somewhat less exotic than seafood, and its habitat is the soil rather than the sea. Yep, the humble spud is every bit as important to the well-being of the islanders as anything coming out of the water. “There’s an old saying in PEI,” informs Kendra Mills of the Prince Edward Island Potato Board, “If the farmers do well, we do well.” She admits that the phrase may sound a bit old-fashioned, but there’s a lot of truth in the saying. The potato industry contributes more than $1.1 billion annually to the island’s economy and employs hundreds of local farmers. “There are approximately 180 potato farms on PEI,” Mills reveals. “And almost every single one is a family farm. There is a very common misconception about ‘corporate farms’ and how that term gets misused to conjure up negative images of farming. It is true that many farms — of all nature — are set up as corporation for tax and accounting and other reasons, but make no mistake that they are very much family owned and managed. I actually come from a family farm. My grandfather, father and now brother are potato farmers. Our farm is set up as a corpoSPRING 2020 25

ration. However, it is my dad and brother who own it and run it. We are family farmers, like all of our neighbours on PEI … and most farms across our country!” I asked Mills why Canada’s Food Island is also Canada’s Spud Island. What makes this such an ideal place to cultivate these tubers? “PEI is the perfect place to grow potatoes. We are known for our red, iron-rich soil, which is probably the most famous reason. The iron oxidizes as it reaches air, and literally ‘rusts,’ so it’s very rich and unique. We also have a great climate, and being an island really contributes to that, with warm summers and cold winters that, for instance, break pest cycles. But we also have been growing potatoes the longest. Our first commercial crop dates back to the 1700s, and we have been honing our skills and [growing] methods ever since.” Besides being able to harvest significant quantities (dependant, of course, on the hand Mother Nature deals in any given year), PEI potato farmers also have the luxury of growing an impressive number of unique varieties. “There are dozens and dozens of potato varieties grown and harvested on PEI,” Mills confirms. “Our largest variety is Russet Burbank, which is predominantly grown [as a] processing potato, but that has other uses as well. There are whites, reds, yellows, minis and more. And now we are seeing more proprietary varieties that companies or farms are developing and breeding on their own, which is exciting. Potatoes that have different flavour profiles and uses, and grown with the convenience factor in mind to reach new customers.” WHILE CANADA AND THE NORTHERN UNITED STATES ARE THE BIGGEST MARKETS FOR THE ISLAND’S POTATOES, THEY ARE ACTUALLY SHIPPED TO MORE THAN 20 COUNTRIES WORLDWIDE. Though the thought of a pota-

to farmer may conjure visuals of a rustic, traditional, everything-by-hand sort of person, this is hardly the case today. Mills reports that when it comes to modern ways, her industry is as cutting edge as any. “Technology plays a big role in the potato industry, and farming in general. It helps farmers be precise, reduce waste and be more efficient. Farming today is so much more efficient with land, water, soil, crop inputs, yields, research than ever before. In one generation, my family farm went from storing potatoes in my grandparent’s old farmhouse basement — a common practice 50 years ago — to my dad and brother being able to control a refrigerated storage facility with their smartphones. GPS technology is used every day on potato farms throughout the whole cropping process, and can even self-steer tractors to ensure precision. There are so many examples. There are hardly any industries nowadays that don’t make use of technology to advance their practices, and farming is no different!” Of course, sitting down to a “potato-only” meal is probably unlikely (though not totally unthinkable). But rumour has it that meat and potatoes sometimes go together. So bring me meat! To be honest, the fact that the Atlantic provinces in general — and PEI specifically — have a thriving beef industry hadn’t really occurred to me. In Ontario, we pretty much just hear Alberta, 26 SPRING 2020

Alberta, Alberta when it comes to beef. However, a seminar led by Russ Mallard, President of Atlantic Beef Products Inc., during my visit to the Culinary Institute of Canada in Charlottetown brought me up to speed with regard to the uniqueness of PEI beef. “Cattle produced in this region come from smaller family farms that use very traditional methods to raise the cattle,” Mallard revealed. “Cattle spend plenty of time on pasture, and synthetic growth hormones are rarely used in this region. The result is that the cattle are four to eight months older when harvested than cattle raised in high-volume feed lots elsewhere in North America. Many experts claim that, generally when it comes to flavour, the age of the cow when harvested has far more influence over the flavour than the breed.” Mallard goes on to explain that Atlantic Beef Products Inc. (ABPI) is the only federally inspected beef-processing facility in Atlantic Canada and the largest such facility east of Ontario. It came into existence in 2004 to fill the gap left when the only federally inspected processing plant in the region closed. When this happened, local beef producers had to ship their cattle to Ontario or the United States for processing. This was too expensive to be sustainable. There was a strong desire to maintain a vibrant beef industry in Atlantic Canada and local beef producers pooled their resources, formed a cooperative and received financial support from Maritime provincial governments and the federal government to move forward. Since beginning operations in 2004, ABPI has worked to ensure not only that the beef it sells is top quality, but also that the animals it handles are raised in the most stress-free environment possible. In fact, this practice is crucial for meat quality. “At Atlantic Beef, we believe cattle that are raised on small family farms and are treated with respect and care at both the farm and the processing plant result in better-tasting, more tender beef,” Mallard reveals. “When arriving at the plant, we ensure cattle stay with the cattle that they are familiar with. Cattle arriving from longer distances have a chance to rest and feed. Wood shavings are used on the barn floor to make it more comfortable. This also has the additional benefit of making it possible to recycle the soiled shavings into compost for use in farmers’ fields.” In fact, ABPI is a Certified Humane Raised and Handled production facility. Obviously those living in the Atlantic region of Canada are the lucky recipients of ABPI’s labours, but the beef Mallard’s company processes finds its way to discerning customers across Canada, and is particularly sought after by noted chefs like Mark McEwan of The McEwan Group and top-end restaurants like Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse and Sims Corner Steakhouse & Oyster Bar. It’s the final night of the PEI International Shellfish Festival. The bands on the main stage have kept the crowd on its feet, and the numerous food booths under the expansive tent have provided mountains of succulent seafood morsels over the course of the last few days. Though I’d never say “no” to anything coming out of her bountiful ocean waters, it’s been great to become more acquainted with a few of the other delectable offerings that help PEI maintain its status as “Canada’s Food Island.” ×

BUYING GUIDE

All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Jordan St. John, Brie Dema and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs

SPARKLING VILLA TERESA ROSÉ FRIZZANTE NV, ITALY ($14)

Organic. Pale pink and slightly fizzy. Smells like strawberry liquorice with melon and a bit of banana. On the palate, it features more strawberry as well as cantaloupe and watermelon, and a bright acidity. Light and refreshing, to be drunk immediately. (RL) HAYWIRE THE BUB 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($29.90)

Fruit from Secrest, a flat south-west facing bench in a high mountain setting, 487 meters (1,600 feet) above sea level. Alluvial soils of coarse gravel and sandy loam with limestone layers. 36 months on lees. Fine bubbles and a persistent mousse. Vibrant citrus and orchard fruit aromas carry through to lively lemon and lime notes on the palate, supported by bright, unapologetic acidity with mineral notes through the crisp, clean end. (TP) TIME WINERY BRUT 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($34.99)

A classic blend of Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%). Fermented in neu-

tral French oak, stainless steel barrels and tanks. A stream of fine bubbles and a good mousse with a touch of brioche on top, followed by a nicely textured and well-balanced palate of citrus and orchard notes before a crisp, clean finish. Interestingly, the wine is produced using the Charmat process, but its style leans towards the traditional method. A wickedly good tribute to the man who started it all. (TP) FITZ BLANC DE NOIR 2015, CENTRAL OKANAGAN VALLEY ($42.50)

A lively stream of fine bubbles with a good mousse. Citrus and nutty notes on top followed by a mouth-filling palate of dark cherry and citrus. Excellent depth and texture, definite “pinosity” and good length with juicy acidity. Lingering cherry-chocolate and zest in the finish. 100% Pinot Noir, 36 months on lees. One of the best from Fitzpatrick to date. It continues to evolve. (TP) FITZPATRICK FAMILY VINEYARDS FITZ BLANC DE NOIR 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($45)

Full and rich with bright red fruit flavours along with pear and spice, soft and expansive with a light grip, balanced acidity, nice depth and intensity on the lengthy finish. (GB)

NOBLE RIDGE THE ONE SPARKLING 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($50)

Creamy and leesy with apple, citrus and spice, rich and vibrant, bright acidity, depth and complexity, elegant and refined. Particularly versatile with a variety of dishes. Should evolve nicely over the next several years. (GB) CHARTOGNE-TAILLET SAINTE ANNE, CHAMPAGNE AOC, FRANCE ($55)

A disciple of Anselme Selosse, Alexandre Chartogne has learned well. He crafts generous Champagne made from ripe grapes yet balanced by brisk acid. Even though this is a blend of 45% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier, the Pinots really dominate the palate and the nose. Seductive notes of brioche, redcurrant and chalk. Lush palate with a symbiosis between the toasted and red fruit aromas. Great value! (MB) 50TH PARALLEL ESTATE BLANC DE NOIR 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($85)

From a steep, south-west facing, granite laced slope overlooking Lake Okanagan, just south of Vernon. The inaugural release, in part to mark the winery’s 10th anniversary. A very sound effort from winemaker Matthew Fortuna, who has never made sparkling wine before. Pretty, medium salmon in the glass, with a perSPRING 2020 27

BUYING GUIDE sistent mousse. Wild strawberry, floral and earthy notes up front with some mineral hints. Crisp but nicely textured with good mouthfeel through the finish. (TP) PIERRE GERBAIS L’ORIGINALE CELLES-SUR-OURCE, CHAMPAGNE AOC, FRANCE ($111.75)

100% Pinot Blanc. Rich palate with opulent notes of brioche, toast, red apple and lemon underlined with chalk. Tangy acid and very fine bubbles. A very interesting Champagne that display intrigue and complexity. Just slightly heavy handed. Still worth buying though! A rare find. (MB)

WHITE $20 AND UNDER

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRIA RABL LÖSS GRÜNER VELTLINER 2017, KAMPTAL ($15.95)

Bright light yellow colour, white pepper and green apple nose with mineral notes. Medium body, dry, fine mouthfeel, apple and citrus flavours. A beautifully balanced wine. (TA) CANADA WILD GOOSE MYSTIC RIVER PINOT BLANC 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($17.39)

From the winery’s Mystic River Vineyard in Oliver. Lifted vibrant orchard fruits on top followed by a juicy entry and well-balanced palate of pear and citrus notes with a touch of mineral through the creamy close. Superb value. (TP) 28 SPRING 2020

ITALY

BAILLIE-GROHMAN RÉCOLTE BLANCHE 2018 VQA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($18)

A blend from the Creston area at the south end of BC wine country. Medium-deep gold. Big nose of banana, melon, butterscotch, orange blossom and vanilla. On the palate, it is full bodied and slightly sweet tasting, with flavours of pear, apple and sugared grapefruit on a long finish. Drink up. (RL)

LAVIS PINOT GRIGIO 2017, DOC TRENTINO ($10)

BAILLIE-GROHMAN GEWURZTRAMINER 2018 VQA, KOOTENAYS ($18)

KIRKLAND PINOT GRIGIO 2017, DOC FRIULI GRAVE ($10)

Light yellow. Entrancing nose of elderflower, lychee and rose petals. Full bodied, almost bone dry, richly flavoured but sophisticated. On the palate, more lychee and elderflower flavours in lovely balance. One of the best Gewurzs I have had. Ideal with any of your favourite seafood dishes. (RL) WILD GOOSE STONY SLOPE RIESLING 2018, OKANAGAN FALLS ($20)

The winery’s flagship Riesling is grown on distinctly gravelly soils on the home estate vineyard. Mainly wild yeast fermented. Flint and mineral aromas with orchard fruits precede a fruit-driven but still very focused palate of citrus, tropical and mineral notes with a lingering, fresh close. Don’t just look to sushi to make the perfect match. (TP) FRANCE JULIEN SCHAAL KALEIDOSCOPE RIESLING 2017, ALSACE ($19.95)

Bright straw in colour. Floral, lime and grapefruit zest on the nose. Medium body, dry; mouth-filling lime flavour with a honeyed note. Beautifully balanced. Roll out a spread of pâté and foie gras. (TA)

Bottled for Costco. Medium-deep gold. Multi-layered scents of ripe apple, banana and rose petal, accented with lime peel. Medium body, tasting of citrus, apple and peach with smoky pungency on the finish. Drink up. Great value. (RL)

Pale silvery yellow. Nose of pineapple and banana, peach and lime. Full-bodied and slightly sweet, not the typical fully-dry Italian style. Tastes of ripe peaches with a sour lime finish. Drink up. (RL) RUFFINO IL DUCALE PINOT GRIGIO 2018, FRIULI ($18.95)

Bright, very pale straw colour. Slight grassy nose of kiwi and citrus peel. Light to medium body; dry, minerally green plum flavour. (TA) NEW ZEALAND KONO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, SOUTH ISLAND ($18.95)

Very pale with a greenish tint. Lightly reductive nose of cut grass, gooseberry and passionfruit. Medium body, crisply dry (almost tart) gooseberry and green plum flavours. Great seafood wine. (TA)

RECOMMENDED ITALY SANTA MARGHERITA PINOT GRIGIO 2017, DOC VALDADIGE ($13)

Pale gold. Medium intensity nose of

apple, lime, grapefruit and peach. Light body and a bit thin on the palate, tasting slightly sweet of peach and other stone fruits. Drink up. (RL)

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA LECONFIELD OLD VINES RIESLING 2018, COONAWARRA ($25)

A paradox in its structure with apparent austerity on the nose yet blessed with juicy and bursting flavours of grapefruit zest, lime and lemon on the palate. Angular with tangy acid and wet stone that lingers on the finish. A very good dry Riesling that complements Asian food well but would make a good addition to the cellar for those who are willing for five to seven years. (MB) CANADA

Upfront notes of vanilla, butterscotch and tropical notes followed by a creamy but well-structured palate defined by well-managed oak, with citrus and orchard fruits through the finish. (TP) TRAIL ESTATE CHARDONNAY VINTAGE TWO UNFILTERED 2017, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($35)

Pale lemon in colour. Smoky, minerally, citrus nose with toasty oak notes. Very Burgundian in style. Medium body, dry, lightly reductive, lemon and green apple flavours. Beautifully balanced with a lovely mouthfeel with green pineapple and green peach flavours. (TA) TRAIL ESTATE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($35)

Pale golden straw colour. Fragrant, lychee and rose petal nose. Light to medium body; dry, cardamom and lychee flavours with refreshing acidity. Rich and full on the palate. (TA) FRANCE

WILD GOOSE VINEYARDS PINOT GRIS 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22)

Quite expressive with aromas and flavours leaning towards tropical, zesty, spicy and savoury with nice vibrancy, balance and length. Think halibut with a spicy mango salsa or honey baked ham. (GB)

BOUCHARD PÈRE ET FILS MÂCON-LUGNY ST. PIERRE 2018, BURGUNDY ($21.95)

Bright, pale straw in colour. Minerally, lemon and green apple nose. Medium body; ripe apple and pear flavours carried on brisk citrus acidity. Great value and a versatile food wine. (TA)

HAYWIRE NARRATIVE RIESLING 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22.90)

Aromas of mineral and citrus, vibrant acidity, crisp, clean and juicy with tropical notes. Stainless steel fermented and concrete tank aged for eight months. Some petrol notes beginning to evolve. Crisp and focused through a dry finish, with just 10.5% ABV. (TP) WILD GOOSE VINEYARDS RIESLING STONEY SLOPE 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($28)

Clean and fresh with a purity of crunchy lime citrus fruit, flint and green apple. Linear focus, bright juicy acidity and a long, mouth-watering finish. A versatile food wine, so have fun experimenting. (GB) NK’MIP QWAM QWMT CHARDONNAY 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($28.99)

From Osoyoos vineyards, aged 10 months in some new but mainly used French oak.

ITALY NATIV SUADENS BIANCO 2017, CAMPANIA ($27.95)

Bright, pale straw colour. Floral, spicy, peach, medium body. Richly extracted, peachy-melon flavours with a long, lemony finish. (TA)

RECOMMENDED CANADA FITZPATRICK FAMILY VINEYARDS RIESLING THE LOOKOUT 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($21)

Vibrant and sleek with a nice tension between the fruit and acidity. Crisp mouth-watering crunchy lime and a nice balance and intensity make this a delicious and versatile food wine. (GB)

× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/

WILD GOOSE VINEYARDS PINOT BLANC MYSTIC RIVER 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22)

A lovely wine with aromas and flavours of pear, citrus and nectarine. It fills out the mouth with a fleshy texture with maintaining firm acidity and minerality on the juicy finish. A great wine with shellfish. (GB) FRANCE JOSMEYER LE KOTTABE 2014, AOC ALSACE ($34)

Structured and precise yet generous and approachable. Dry with great concentration of lime and lemon zest with a touch of honey and orange blossom. The delicate wet stone notes lift the palate. Mouth-watering and a great match with raclette for winter gathering. (MB) SOUTH AFRICA MARIANNE CUVEE L’ESCAPADE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, WESTERN CAPE ($25)

Medium-deep yellow. Medium intensity nose of oak, lemon and gooseberry. Tastes of apple, lemon and other citrus flavours, all having spent time in a sawmill. Drink up. (RL)*

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA MAC FORBES YARRA JUNCTION CHARDONNAY 2018, YARRA VALLEY ($60)

Full body with broad palate balanced by brisk acid. Tight with notes of lime, lemon and cream, and a touch of bitterness that adds complexity and structure. A Chardonnay with character and elegance. (MB) CULLEN KEVIN JOHN CHARDONNAY 2015, MARGARET RIVER ($135)

A very complex full-bodied Chardonnay where opulence is balanced by brisk acid. Nice harmony on the palate with hazelnut, key lime pie in symbiosis with the touch of vanilla and butter. Very long finish that makes you wait for a while until you take the next sip. Another outstanding bottle made by the talented Vanya Cullen. (MB) SPRING 2020 29

BUYING GUIDE FRANCE

THIBAUD BOUDIGNON AOC ANJOU BLANC 2017 ($50)

This wine reminds me, a musician, of the structure and cadence of Igor Stravinsky. Angular with great depth and notes of lanolin, mushroom, apple and camomile. Tight and young. Will blossom in seven to 10 years from now. I put a few bottles away in my cellar myself. I wish I had more. (MB)

RECOMMENDED MOULIN TOUCHAIS AOC COTEAUX DU LAYON 1997 ($57)

You can always count on this Loire Valley estate to provide older vintages that offer great value for money. The 1997 is particularly outstanding. Sweet but balanced by brisk acid with profound and unctuous aromas of ripe pear, honey and apricot. A lingering finish made of steely and hazelnut nuances, which add complexity. Delicious now but still a long life ahead. With Roquefort as the aperitif, with Tarte Tatin for dessert. (MB)

RED

Clear medium-deep plum red. In your face nose of Gamay grape, also raspberry. Light body with high acidity and fresh grapey fruit. At its best now. (RL)*

A blend of 50% White Grenache, 30% Roussanne and 20% Clairette. Shining white gold colour. Minerally, lemony nose with a note of white blossoms. Medium to full body. Dry, elegant; grapefruit and pear flavours. Great value. (TA) CHÂTEAU ROQUEFORT 2015, AOC BORDEAUX ($18)

PÉTALES D’OSOYOOS 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN VALLEY ($28.99)

LES VIGNERONS DU CASTELAS CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2017, RHÔNE ($15.95)

Medium-deep garnet. Faint nose of oak, cassis and dust. Medium body with high tannins blanketing flavours of cassis and blackberry. Could use another year or two to mellow the tannins. (RL)*

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

BELLWETHER ANT SERIES TEMPRANILLO 2018, WRATTONBULLY ($26)

RECOMMENDED

CHILE CORNELLANA PINOT NOIR 2015, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($12)

Very pale garnet. Faint nose of raspberry and rhubarb. Light body, tasting of raspberries and strawberries. A crowd-pleasing quaffing wine with little structure, but a great price. Drink up. (RL)*

MOON CURSER SYRAH 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25.99)

Hand-picked and -sorted, not crushed but cold fermented in stainless steel, aged in new and neutral French and some Hungarian oak. Forward blue and blackberry notes with some meaty hints before a plush and peppery full-bodied palate of cassis, damson, earthy and mineral notes. Approachable tannins with hallmark acidity before spice and black pepper through the lingering finish. (TP)

AUSTRALIA

$20 AND UNDER

30 SPRING 2020

DOMAINE MILHOMME CUVÉE LE MURIER 2016, AC BEAUJOLAIS ($15)

ed cherry fruit carried on lively acidity. Finished firmly with ripe tannins with oak spice notes. Will reward cellaring for one to two years. (TA)

Fresh and bright with crunchy tannins and notes of dark plum and liquorice. Great purity of fruit. Simple but honestly made and a great everyday bottle. (MB)

From another superlative vintage, the worthy second label to Osoyoos Larose yields vanilla, red and black fruit on top before a medium-bodied palate of forward mulberry, cherry and raspberry wrapped in spicy oak notes. Approachable tannins with an appealing herbaceous streak and gently savoury finish. (TP) NK’MIP QWAM QWMT SYRAH 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN VALLEY ($34.99)

From Osoyoos vineyards, aged 18 months in French and American oak. Aromas of red and black fruit with some vanilla and spice notes before a plush, full-bodied mulberry and raspberry palate with a touch of acidity. Approachable tannins and black pepper notes through the close. (TP)

CANADA FLAT ROCK CELLARS PINOT NOIR 2018, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($21.95)

Ruby in colour. High-toned, raspberry nose. Medium-bodied, dry, well-extract-

TIME WINERY FOURTH DIMENSION 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN VALLEY ($35)

A blend of Merlot (45%), Syrah (29%), Cabernet Franc (16%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), hand harvest from vine-

yards in the South Okanagan. Hand-sorted, crushed and left on skins for three weeks before pressing. Aged 16 months in new and neutral French oak barrels. Aromas of lifted red and black fruit before a well-structured palate of cherry, damson, raspberry, vanilla and spice notes wrapped in plush tannins and juicy acidity. Very appealing and approachable now, but will continue to evolve. (TP) FRANCE CHÂTEAU LA PIROUETTE 2016, BORDEAUX ($23.95)

Deep ruby in colour. Cedary, ripe plum bouquet with oak spice and a light floral grace note. Medium body, dry, bright, gently savoury flavours of ripe plum, cherry and milk chocolate. Well balanced, nicely structured and quite forward with ripe tannins. Drinking well now but will improve with couple of years’ cellaring. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. (TA) SOUTH AFRICA WARWICK TRILOGY 2014, STELLENBOSCH ($30)

Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Robust nose of cassis and black cherry. Medium body, tasting of tart sour cherries and blackberry, with some tough tannins. Drink to 2021 to let the tannins mellow. (RL)*

RECOMMENDED FRANCE DOMAINE DE LA MARINIÈRE 2015, CHINON AOC ($30)

Medium body with crunchy tannins and fresh acid. Earthy with the typical notes of raspberries, pencil shaving and a pleasing herbal touch that we associated with delicious Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley. Slightly rustic but irresistible. Made for food. (MB) ITALY LE VIGNE DI ELI 2017, DOC ETNA ROSSO ($35)

98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerel-

lo Cappucio. Somewhere between the haunting soul of Barolo and the finesse of Burgundy. Chewy tannins with fresh acid and juicy notes of red cherries, cranberries and a hint of orange peel and tar. Full of charm. Brilliant with rabbit. (MB) SOUTH AFRICA MARIANNE PINOTAGE 2014, SIMONSBERG-PAARL ($21)

Deep plum red. Faint nose of raspberry and smoke. Medium body, very dry and tart, tasting of sour cherries. Drink to 2020. (RL)* MARIANNE MERLOT 2013, SIMONSBERG-PAARL ($23)

Medium-deep plum red and surprisingly purple for its age. A fairly strong nose of plums, raspberry jam, cedar and herbs from the Merlot grapes. Nicely balanced, tasting of ripe red berries. Aging well, drink to 2021. (RL)*

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA TIMO MAYER NEBBIOLO 2018, YARRA VALLEY ($50)

Nebbiolo is known not to travel well outside of its native region Piemonte. This is definitely not the case here. This wine displays the classic haunting aromas of juicy cherries, rose petal, orange zest and tar. Full body with firm tannins and a moderate finish. A delicious drink with pulled pork. (MB) WYNNS V&A LANE SELECTED VINEYARD CABERNET SHIRAZ 2012, COONAWARRA ($60)

This wine was tasted amongst the top Cabernet Shiraz in Australia, some of which cost as much as $1500 a bottle. This wine was, with no hesitation, my favourite of the line-up. Full body with firm and polished tannins with rich yet restrained palate that display notes of cassis, black plum, mint and vanilla. An outstanding bottle for the collector seeking to put some good value away for 10 to 15 years. Overdelivers for its price point. (MB)

CANADA BLUE MOUNTAIN VINEYARD ESTATE CUVÉE 2017, OKANAGAN FALLS ($36)

Made with fruit from vines grown on the estate’s highest altitudes. Forward notes of cherry and wild strawberry before a sleek, fresh entry. Medium body supported by juicy acidity drive a core of red fruit and supple tannins with spicy notes through the lengthy finish. (TP) MOON CURSER TANNAT 2015, SOUTH OKANAGAN VALLEY ($36)

Inky, deep purple in the glass, wild blackberry and dark cherry notes on the nose with mushroom hints. A soft and supple entry with anise, mocha and black cherry notes, supported by well-integrated tannins, generous mouthfeel with lingering cassis and spice through the lengthy close. A superlative example from an excellent vintage. (TP) MOON CURSER TOURIGA NACIONAL, 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($45)

Compelling right off the nose with floral notes and an abundance of red fruit, spice and liquorice. Lots of depth showing firm, fruit-coated tannins. Savoury, medium body, but full-flavoured, fresh and juicy with a nice edginess, and bright acidity. Moon Curser is the poster child for the Okanagan’s diversity and the perfect example of why the region should not limit itself to growing only a few mainstream grape varieties (assuming this is not done with a random, shotgun approach to planting and winemaking, but rather by knowledgeable and talented viticulturalists and oenologists). (GB) CLOS DU SOLEIL SIGNATURE 2015, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($44.90)

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (23%), Cabernet Franc (22%), Malbec (10%) and Petit Verdot (5%), sourced from home and other Similkameen vineyards. Forward notes of black fruit with floral hints and graphite precede an entry of luscious layers of mulberry, damson and blackberry. Juicy acidity with approachable and seamless tannins, impressively integrated with hallmark minerality through the finish. Superb value. (TP) SPRING 2020 31

BUYING GUIDE MOON CURSER TANNAT 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($45)

Bold, dark, ripe and rich with loads of fresh blueberry, blackberry and red plum. Herbal and savoury, big fruit-enveloped tannins, structured, mouthfilling, plush, with a bright acidity and long, powerful finish. Ideal with bison, elk or other wild game. (GB) BURROWING OWL SYRAH 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($46)

Fresh, floral, full flavoured and layered with loads of blueberry and blackberry fruit character, spice, peppery and meaty. The wine is vibrant, balanced and lengthy with bright acidity and a long, complex finish that keeps drawing you back for another taste. The 2017 reds from Burrowing Owl are all showing a bright freshness and vibrant fruit purity. Well done. (GB) BLUE MOUNTAIN PINOT NOIR WILD TERRAIN 2017, OKANAGAN FALLS ($55)

One of three releases from the winery’s new single vineyard series, this fruit comes from the more extreme contrasting and varied parts of the estate, with both steep slopes and flatter portions, over loamy sand and mainly south-west facing. Opens in the glass with aromas of fresh red berries and vibrant strawberry notes before a light- to medium-bodied palate with fennel notes underpinned by a savoury edge over earthy and mineral hints, all wrapped in balanced acidity through the lingering finish. (TP) FRANCE CLOS BELLANE PURETÉ 400 2017, AOC CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE-VILLAGES VALRÉAS ($40)

When power meets elegance. Full body 32 SPRING 2020

with soft and silky texture with lifted notes of wild strawberries and raspberries and a subtle touch of garrigues and truffle on the long finish. The talented Stéphane Vedeau crafted a masterpiece. Grenache at its very finest. (MB) CHÂTEAU CANTENAC-BROWN 2010, AC MARGAUX ($95)

Very deep crimson. Glorious, almost blousy, Margaux nose ranging from baked apple to dates, raisins and brown sugar, finishing with a bit of campfire smoke. Full bodied, warm and harmonious on the palate. The fruit tastes fresher than the nose foretold, with overripe melon, plums and chokecherry flavours. Tannins are still a bit high; try it in 2020 with a rib steak rubbed with Montreal steak spice. (RL)

RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA MAC FORBES WOORI YALLOCK 2015, YARRA VALLEY ($95)

Elegant and fresh with gentle silky tannins and complex palate with aromas of truffle, fresh strawberries and cherries with pleasant mineral notes on the finish. The 12.5% ABV is an added bonus and makes it dangerously easy to drink. Serve slightly chilled. (MB) FRANCE DUBOIS LES BRESSANDES 2015, AC BEAUNE PREMIER CRU ($49)

Vigorous but ethereal nose of violets, raspberry and a touch of oak and menthol. Medium body, tasting of raspberry jam with high acidity and tannins that are still a little rough. Drink to 2021. (RL)*

BEFORE & AFTER DINNER LUSTAU SOLERA RISERVA AMONTILLADO LOS ARCOS DRY SHERRY, JEREZ, SPAIN ($16.95)

Deep amber in colour. Caramel and toasted nut nose. Medium body, dry, nutty, toasty, rich and full on the palate. Lingering with an orange peel note on the finish. (TA) PRAIRIE ORGANIC VODKA, UNITED STATES ($45)

Distilled from USDA certified organic corn, this distilled-in-Minnesota vodka offers up just the barest hint of vanilla and cherry. Nicely rounded in the mouth, those subtle notes of cherry and vanilla recur, and there’s a fleeting trace of mocha on the tail end. Don’t get me wrong; it’s vodka not scotch…but it’s not entirely flavour-free. Which certainly isn’t a bad thing. (TS) ALBERTA PREMIUM CASK STRENGTH LIMITED EDITION CANADIAN RYE WHISKY, CANADA ($55)

This powerful Canadian rye packs a wallop at 65.1 % ABV. A dash of water not only tempers the heat, but also allows the aromas to become a bit less “locked in.” Some red apple and kirsch-like nuances on the nose, with a dash of brown butter and butterscotch. Depending to what degree you decide to dilute it, you’ll get a whack of bold, cayenne spice, orange zest, red berries, and buttered nuts. The finish goes on…and on…. (TS)

OCEAN ORGANIC SUGAR CANE SPIRIT, HAWAII, UNITED STATES ($50)

The company’s website calls Ocean “organic vodka.” The fact that it’s distilled from sugar cane juice probably explains why it is labelled as “cane sugar spirit” - at least in this market. While “cane sugar spirit” typically equals rum, vodka is clearly (ahem) what this spirit aims to be. Aromatically it’s more-or-less neutral, save for maybe a very slight hint of brine and mineral. Very clean and creamy in the mouth, and like most vodkas, largely flavour-free. This will glide its way easily into any cocktail calling for the more common grain (or less common, potato) vodka. Cool bottle. (TS) ALBERTA PREMIUM 20 YEARS OLD LIMITED EDITION CANADIAN RYE WHISKY, CANADA ($80)

Alberta Distillers’ rye whiskies are actually distilled from 100 % rye, which isn’t always the case with Canadian whiskies labelled as “rye.” This limited edition 20 year old version delivers forward candied orange peel/marmalade notes, with a suggestion of red berry. There’s also some dusty, polished wood nuances and just the very slightest trace of acetate. Spicy/ peppery explosive rye on the well-integrated palate. There are traces of citrus, leather and mild caramel as well that linger pleasantly on the long, memorable finish. Distinctive. (TS)

BEER & CIDER BIG DROP DARK/NOIR, UNITED KINGDOM ($2.75/330 ML)

Big Drop’s Stout is more successful than the Pale/Blanche, emulating the already existing Milk Stout style. The lactose can express itself traditionally. We have sweet dark chocolate in addition to a tobacco-like herbal quality above a smoky roast malt astringency. It features all the flavour of a full alcohol milk stout despite the lower ABV at 0.4%. (JSJ) BIG DROP PALE/BLANCHE, UNITED KINGDOM ($2.75/330 ML)

Big Drop focuses on the non-alcoholic segment, although their products are

technically 0.4% ABV most of the time. Fermented rather than de-alcoholized, the secret to the texture is lactose, which adds enough texture to replace the alcohol. The Pale Ale features a split between North-American grapefruit bitterness and English herbal greenery, making this a rarity: a non-alcoholic beer with flavour. (JSJ) MOLSON FIRESIDE LAGER, CANADA ($2.85/473 ML)

Part of a new lineup from Molson, Fireside uses seven malt varieties to mirror the seven generations during which Molson has been active in Canada. Landing somewhere between a Dunkel and a Schwarzbier, the body contains elements of dark rye, molasses and hazelnut syrup in addition to a mild walnutty tannic astringency. Perhaps overcomplicated, but worth a flutter. (JSJ) KUCHLBAUER WEISSE, GERMANY ($2.95/500 ML)

From Abensberg in Bavaria, Kuchlbauer Weisse is a surprisingly light take on the style, with nearly all of the individual components of flavour dialed back except for a bright, wheaty acidity, which makes it seem even lighter on the palate. Nuanced bubblegum yeast character with an light woody aftertaste from local hops. Functionally, a quality quaffer. (JSJ) CHIMAY GOLD, BELGIUM ($3.45/330 ML)

Rarely seen in comparison to the other Chimay products, the Patersbier or Enkel is bright, sweet and herbal on the nose with a lasting moussy carbonation. Lemon rind acidity at the back of the palate and a touch of retro-nasal clove complement a light peppery bitterness. A simple, straightforward, but exquisitely balanced beer. (JSJ) PHILLIPS ORO BLANCO, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($3.55/473 ML)

Victoria’s Phillips Brewing has benefited recently from national representation in Canada, allowing for wider distribution of the Oro Blanco Grapefruit Sour. A bright grapefruit and lime nose with a hint of lactic acidity. The initial impression on the sip is sweetness, which battles for dominance as the sour grapefruit

× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/

asserts itself on the palate. For all the tartness, a comparatively well-balanced mimosa of a beer. (JSJ) EDINBURGH BEER FACTORY PAOLOZZI HELLES LAGER, UNITED KINGDOM ($3.95/500 ML)

Voted best Helles Lager in the UK three years running at the World Beer Awards, Paolozzi borrows the pop art for its label from its namesake. On the palate, the balance of sweet and bitter is elegant with a light confectioners’ sugar character reminiscent of candy dots. The real interest is on the nose, where bright lemon, spring flowers, wild thyme and a touch of eucalyptus play. Expensive, but worth the experience. (JSJ) WELLINGTON BREWERY NOT A WORD SPOKEN APRICOT IPA, ONTARIO ($12.95/4-PACK)

Part of the Brewery Mix Pack Volume 7, Wellington’s Apricot IPA has an apricot nectar nose that is evident several feet from the glass. The fruit character persists all the way to the finish at which point the bitterness becomes more pronounced with a touch of cedar-like wood character emerging. Practically the entire experience of eating an apricot, right down to scraping the pit. (JSJ) BUDWEISER COPPER LAGER, UNITED STATES ($16.50/6-PACK)

An innovation from Budweiser, this beer features the presence of Jim Beam barrel staves. Perhaps it is the connotation of the name, but there is a small metallic presence on the nose along with overripe banana and a touch of coconut from the oak. The caramel sweetness of the body suffers a little distraction from oak tannin. Better in concept than execution. (JSJ) DUNHAM X ISLE DE GARDE IDA LA GRISETTE, QUEBEC ($5/330 ML)

This light Belgian style is perhaps more sophisticated than a traditional Grisette. On the nose, a significant amount of drying barnyard brettanomyces, almost filtered through ripe plum. The spiciness of that yeast characteristic persists all the way through to the dry finish with a lemon zest peak in the mid-palate bolstered by a spiky carbonic attack. (JSJ) SPRING 2020 33

AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER

RECENTLY MY WIFE DEBORAH RETURNED HOME FROM AN ESTATE SALE with a framed colour photograph

of what looks like an oil painting of two dusty bottles: Château Haut Brion 1919 and Bouchard Ainé & Fils Meursault 1904. To the left of the bottles: a rather bedraggled label of Mas de Daumas Gassac, and two corks — one branded Rausan Ségla, the other an unidentifiable Saint-Émilion. To the right: a label of Château Margaux 1949 in excellent condition and an old-fashioned corkscrew standing upright. This montage can only be described as oeno-porn. Nothing triggers the compulsion to become a collector more than wine. Not only bottles of wine; I am also talking about all the paraphernalia for serving and consuming wine. To show you what I mean, here is my inventory of the wine-related stuff in our house. Wine glasses. 150 of them of various shapes and sizes in a cabinet, and boxes of unused ones in the basement. (We tend to break them, so we buy them compulsively.) 34 SPRING 2020

Eight decanters and two ice buckets sitting on the top of a 500-bottle wine cabinet. 14 corkscrews (including a left-handed one) in our kitchen drawer, plus more secreted around the house and in the car in case of an “emergency.” Three packets of drip stops, eight table napkins with grape variety names and a matching tablecloth, a Coravin, and a wine aerator/strainer/pourer with stopper. All in the drawer where we keep the wine coasters. A water jug in the form of a bunch of grapes, two sets-of-six place mats — one set features Bordeaux labels, the other says “I Sapori d’Italia” and is decorated with a bottle, glasses and grapes. 20-odd rolled up wine region maps that I never look at and old wine dinner menus signed by chefs, in the garage. A set of cork place mats that we bought at MOMA in New York. My wife’s cork handbag I purchased for her in France that can just hold a chilled bottle and a corkscrew. On the wall in our kitchen: a large red and blue metal genuine license to sell alcoholic beverages in a Paris bistro (liberated by my French brother-in-law, no questions asked).

A collection of metal champagne cork tops, called muselets (from the French verb museler, meaning “to muzzle.”), which make me a practicing placomusophile (the term for nutty collectors of these colourful discs). Dozens of them sit in a drawer, waiting to be framed. I used to collect wine books and, at one time, I had over 700. Now I am down to a more reasonable 100. I also collect memorable empty wine bottles signed by the winemaker. These bottles have moved with us three times much to my wife’s chagrin. (Are you nodding your head sympathetically with me or her?) I also own a machine for recorking unfinished wine by hand after applying wine-preserving gas. (May heaven forgive me.) And do not get me started on wine labels; I donated photo albums full of them to my friend Alain Laliberté, who proudly holds the Guinness Book of Records title for the world’s largest collection of wine labels — 18,000 and counting. Now back to that object my wife brought home from the estate sale. It cost her $5. I would not part with it for 10 times that. (Well, maybe.) × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM

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