Travel OctNov 2022

Explore

the West

THE 100 MOST INSPIRING PLACES TO VISIT NOW

OFF-THE-GRID CABIN INSPO PLUS TOP TASTING ROOMS

PERFECT

PLANT-BASED RECIPES

SMALL-SPACE LANDSCAPE DESIGN

What will you find in Greater Palm Springs?

Endless sunshine and sparkling pools are only the beginning.

With unmatched natural beauty, unique health and wellness experiences, world-class events, and countless outdoor adventures, this Southern California destination continues to capture the hearts and imaginations of travelers from across the world.

me

visitgreaterpalmsprings.com

Peace and Plenty

Earlier in the year I visited a farm in California that grows one of the priciest crops on the planet: saffron, that beguiling ingredient that stains dishes a sunset orange and famously adds haunting flavor to aioli and less famously but equally deliciously to ice cream and cocktails. Growing saffron is a painstaking process: all invisible promise as the bulblike corms buried in spring turn to flowers in the fall, and for a brief window offer up crimson stigmas that, when dried, go for thousands of dollars a pound. The name of the farm is as lovely as what it yields. It’s called Peace & Plenty, a state of being we could all cultivate if we put our minds to it. (You can read all about it on page 56.) At the end of my visit, the farm’s proprietor, Melinda Price, gave me a burlap bag of corms to plant when I got home. I absentmindedly put them in a drawer only to pull them out a month later to find tendrils pushing out, looking for soil to find purchase in. I buried them in my yard. And now I wait, not to harvest meaningful amounts of saffron, but maybe a little, and if not, at least I’ve joined the rhythm of the seasons in yet another small way. Autumn, ideally, is a season of plenty: memories of a long summer not yet faded, a time for accounting what you have and what’s to come. Time speeds up between now and the holidays, as we harvest what we metaphorically (and sometimes literally) planted throughout the year. And that’s what all the stories in this issue celebrate: people, places, and ideas that yield a new West. In Los Angeles, writer-producer Mara Brock Akil worked with interior designer Tiffany Howell to create a workspace that’s a stylish and inspiring incubator for aspiring writers and artists in Hollywood. At an off-the-grid compound in Northern California, an architect and a gallerist built a low-tech, high-style retreat that encourages them to fully unplug. This issue also celebrates the winners of our annual Travel Awards: These are the standout hotels, restaurants, wineries, tour companies, and destinations from Arizona to Wyoming that represent all the wonderful ways to explore the West. On the list you’ll find a few spots in one of my favorite destinations, the bucolic Santa Ynez Valley, home to rolling hills dotted with oaks, world-class wineries, and charming country towns. In November we’ll be there hosting events at Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley, a multi-day celebration of the region’s food and wine in a modern-day version of a classic harvest festival. We hope you’ll join us in celebrating the season. Tickets are available at sunset.com/santa-ynez. Until harvest, I look at that spot in my yard where I planted the saffron. If I’m lucky, I’ll have just enough to make a pint of saffron ice cream, and that will be plenty.

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey

DEPUTY EDITOR

Kristin Scharkey

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson

PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish

STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

TRAVEL EDITOR

Krista Simmons

CONTRIBUTING HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon

CONTRIBUTING GARDEN EDITOR

Deanna Kizis

DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR

Nicole Clausing

LIFESTYLE CONTRIBUTOR

Camille Styles

SENIOR DIRECTOR, PRODUCTION

Jamie Elliott

VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross

Sales

SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS

Mort Greenberg

VP, PARTNERSHIPS

Kathleen Craven

HEAD OF TRAVEL

Pamela Coffey

HEAD OF OUTDOOR

Kristi Rummel

SVP, REVENUE OPERATIONS

Kelly Facer

DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

Mindy Morgan

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Cammeo Murray

Marketing

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Stephen Kamifuji

HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

Tracy Seng

Sunset Media International Corporation

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Tom Griffiths

Graydon Sheinberg

sunset@omeda.com

Get The Color You Want.

KERN COUNTY

Bakersfield Paint bakersfieldpaint.com

Sequoia Paint sequoiapaint.com

LOS ANGELES COUNTY

Altadena Hardware altadenahardware.com

Baller Hardware ballerhardware.com

Catalina Paint catalinapaintstore.com

Cox Paint coxpaint.com

Crown Paint crownpaintca.com

Falcon Paints falcon-paints.com

Ganahl Lumber ganahllumber.com

Manta Paint mantapaints.com

Mark’s Paint Store markspaint.com

Par Paint parpaint.com

Paul’s Paint paulspaintscv.com

Shilpark Paint shilpark.com

ORANGE COUNTY

De Vaul Paint (714) 546-9191

Fullerton Paint fullertonpaint.com

Ganahl Lumber ganahllumber.com

Orange Paint Store orangepaintstore.com

Shilpark Paint shilpark.com

RIVERSIDE COUNTY

Ganahl Lumber ganahllumber.com Paint Garden paintgarden.com

Painters Warehouse (760) 346-4444

Tru-Tone Paint (760) 325-1225

SANTA BARBARA COUNTY

Santa Barbara Paint Depot sbpaintdepot.com

Santa Ynez Paint (805) 686-5114

SAN BERNADINO COUNTY

Big Bear Paint Center bigbearpaintcenter.com

Paint Bucket paintbucketinc.com

Shilpark Paint shilpark.com

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

Colorama Paint coloramapaint.com

Inland Paint inlandpaint.com

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY

Terra Paints (805) 466-2226

VENTURA COUNTY

Décor Color & Design decorpaintstore.com

Frontier Paint frontierpaint.biz

TO THE MOON AND BACK

First-of-its-kind, Clover Sonoma Moon Milks promote well-being and relaxation in mind and body as part of a holistic daily ritual. Brighten your cereal or smoothie bowl, sip over ice or froth into warm drinks, to experience a moment of serenity with Cherry Berry Hibiscus, Turmeric Ginger and Blueberry Lavender Moon Milks.

ClovertheMoon.com

BEST OF THE WEST

Mexico’s western peninsula comes alive during harvest season, when innovative wine, delightful tasting rooms, and otherworldly accommodations converge—from the hottest new hotels to classic pioneers.

Where to Stay

ACRE RESORT

Lush palm trees and cactuses envelop this collection of a dozen treehouses, offering a rustic perch to take in the foothills of San Jose del Cabo before a massage. acreresort.com

BANYAN TREE VALLE DE GUADA -

LUPE RESORT, SPA AND WINERY

Slated to open next year, this modern resort will be set amid olive groves and play host to a hilltop eatery and winery, plus an onsite garden and spa treatments. banyantree.com

BRUMA

Some spots are so good they never go out of style; that’s the case with this rustic-chic resort right in the middle of Guadalupe Valley wine country. Be sure to stop by Fauna restaurant for the experimental tasting menu. bruma.mx

CAMPERA HOTEL BURBUJA

Thoughtfully appointed bubble tents are the name of the game at this ecofriendly resort right in the middle of the valley, each with a bathroom and airconditioning. camperahotel.com

CUATRO CUATROS

Located on the road between Ensenada and the Guadalupe Valley, glamping tents are paired with contemporary restaurants where you can sample seafood with estate wines. cuatrocuatrosreservas.com

ENCUENTRO GUADALUPE

Hillside pods billed as “ecolofts” dot this property, with amenities that range from in-room fireplaces to soaking tubs. Do we even need to talk about the views?

encuentrocollection.com

FOUR SEASONS RESORT LOS CABOS AT COSTA PALMAS

Nestled in white sands on the Sea of Cortez, these oceanfront suites and villas are the epitome of luxury, while the nearby Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park, a UNESCO Marine World Heritage Site, deserves a day trip. fourseasons.com/loscabos

PARADERO TODOS SANTOS

Jaw-dropping vistas and stargazing “star nets” suspended between suites are only part of the allure; you can swim up to a bar in the infinity pool that overlooks the surrounding mountains. paraderohotels.com

Go Now

Oct. 21–23

Counter Intelligence

Use vegetables and flowers from your garden to decorate a fall harvest table.

If you think your vegetables are too pretty to hide in your refrigerator, you are not alone. But if a basket filled with glossy eggplants and persimmons feels too much like an early ’80s throwback, you’re not alone in that thinking either. Luckily, there’s a modern way to display these gems. We enlisted the help of Lauri Kranz from Edible Gardens LA and interior designer Molly Russell Ford to help us come up with tips for the ultimate fall harvest table.

Back for its fourth year, this two-day festival offers all-star lineups featuring standout chefs including Nancy Silverton and Rick Bayless, plus delicious wine in an outdoor venue that celebrates the best the Guadalupe Valley has to offer. vallefoodandwinefest.com

1 Rethink your greenery. Instead of stocking up on eucalyptus, ivy, or myrtle, fill in your flower arrangements using just-picked stems of basil, mint, catmint, sage, sorrel, or chard. Kranz, for example, has used the red, lacy veins of the sorrel to complement the red zinnias and garden-grown dahlias. It’s a great way to use an excess of greens from your coolweather garden.

2 Play with scale. A heavy, sagegreen pumpkin can anchor a fall table in the same way a pricey professional arrangement can. Place it on a cutting board or platter, and use it as a base to build around—adding deep purple eggplant, small zucchini with the blossoms still attached, or the lacy tops of carrots.

3 Add beeswax candles and neutral linens in complementary colors. Candles in shades like blush pink and olive green can bring out the colors in your produce. Unfinished wood and aged brass candlesticks work well with the rustic theme. A cream gingham tablecloth from Morrow Soft Goods is the perfect neutral backdrop for a palette of fall garden color.

4 Use what you have around the house.

Dig through your cabinets to find low, shallow baskets, metal and ceramic trays, or platters to display the harvest. A footed glass vase from last year’s Mother’s Day flower delivery can become the ideal spot for a few bunches of rainbow carrots.

5 Cut open vegetables and fruits to show the beauty inside. Show off those watermelon radishes, purple carrots, pomegranates, and persimmons by revealing they’re beautiful on the inside, too. Slice open your produce to add texture and more interesting color to your tablescape. Just make sure the linens you use are stain-proof.

HIKING

In a place like Montana, adventure lies in something as simple as a walk in the woods. Setting off by foot and feeling the earth underneath is good for the heart and soul, especially with a view like ours.

HOT SPRINGS

Natural hot springs are, quite literally, Yellowstone Country’s hottest spots. After a long day of exploration and adventure, there’s nothing like soaking in the healing mineral waters of nature’s hot tub.

Yellowstone is more than a park. In Montana, it’s a whole country.

Forces of nature originally drew you to the park. Unfortunately, they might also keep you from enjoying some of the things you may have planned on your trip. Yellowstone is more than a park, however. It’s an entire ecosystem and it doesn’t stop at the park boundary. Venture farther into Montana, and you’ll find many of the things you were looking for.

Start discovering now. Get your FREE Travel Packet by calling 1.800.736.5276 or going to VisitYellowstoneCountry.com

SCENIC DRIVES

You’d be hard pressed to find a road in Yellowstone Country that isn’t scenic. Every switchback will surprise you. And each mile marker will reveal another place to pull over and rethink where you spend those hard-earned vacation days.

FISHING

If you find yourself knee-deep in a lazy stretch of a world-class river, casting a fly rod against the most sublimely beautiful landscape you’ve ever laid eyes on, you’re in Montana’s Yellowstone Country. After all, the Madison, Gallatin and Yellowstone rivers run through here, and we’ve even got a valley called Paradise.

Halloween Spirits

Casamigos’ Halloween party in Beverly Hills is a legendary fall affair. Here’s how to throw your own.

Black Lava Salt

For a spooky black garnish, mix ¾ cup Hawaiian black lava salt with ¼ cup sugar, and pour on a saucer or small plate.

Witches Brew

For instant Halloween vibes, buy novelty glassware online, such as skeletonhand Champagne flutes or skull glasses like the one pictured here.

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Black Lava Salt mixture, for garnish

1½ oz. Casamigos blanco tequila

1½ oz. Midori Melon Liqueur

1 oz. fresh pineapple juice

1 oz. fresh lemon juice

Dehydrated orange or other citrus wheel, for garnish

1. Wet half of the rim of a coupe glass with a lemon wedge and dip into Black Lava Salt mixture.

2. Combine tequila, liqueur, and pineapple and lemon juices in a cocktail shaker. Add ice, shake vigorously, and strain into glass.

3. Add fresh ice and garnish with citrus wheel.

Smoky Halloween Colada

Randy Gerber and partners George Clooney and Michael Meldman have established Casamigos as a household name for all things agave. Their annual party is the West Coast’s hottest costume ball, attracting guests with names like Justin, Leonardo, and Zoe. Here, Gerber shares advice and recipes to help you raise your Halloween party game.

THEME IT: “We like to pick a great theme,” Gerber says. Past parties have been themed around disco and psychedelic, inspiring guests to get creative with costumes. That way, they “become part of the decor.”

INVITE THE ECLECTIC: “Curate a great guest list. My guest list is an eclectic group of people, some who come from out of town, family members, old friends, and new friends.”

DIAL IN THE DRINKS: “Always serve cocktails to guests when they walk in so everyone has a drink in hand. All of our mixes are made fresh at the parties, but depending on the event, you can pre-batch so people don’t have to wait for drinks.”

Mezcal gives this creamy take on the pinã colada a smoky backbone. Pebble ice, which you can get from some supermarkets, is ideal, but you can also use crushed ice.

1 lime wedge

Black Lava Salt mixture

½ oz. grenadine

2 oz. Casamigos mezcal

¾ oz. fresh lime juice

¾ oz. fresh pineapple juice

¾ oz. cream of coconut

¾ oz. Liber & Co. ginger syrup

Dehydrated orange or other citrus wheel, for garnish

1. Wet half the rim of a tiki or hurricane glass with lime wedge and dip into Black Lava Salt mixture.

2. Pour grenadine directly into the bottom of the glass.

3. Combine mezcal, lime and pineapple juices, cream of coconut, and ginger syrup into a tin shaker. Add ice, shake vigorously, and strain into glass.

4. Add pebble or crushed ice, making sure to fill to the top, creating a dome-like shape. Garnish with citrus wheel.

Unbox the West

The Sunset Subscription Box delivers the Best of the West straight to your door!

Every three months, you’ll get a box full of home, design, food, and gardening products curated by Sunset editors to help you make the most of every season. You can choose the box that fits your style and price point, then get ready to be surprised and delighted by what you find inside! Our next box is devoted to the holidays and will be full of products perfect for entertaining, gifting, and filling the season with cheer. It’s the perfect way to give the gift of the West to family or friends.

Sign up now at TheSunsetBox.com

Our premium edition of our upcoming holiday box will include festive and iconic enamelware mugs from Northern California-based Crow Canyon as well as other seasonal products made in the West and beyond.

HOME & GARDEN

This Seattle courtyard is the perfect example of how to create a multifunctional patio—no matter the size of your outdoor space.

you ask landscape designer Scot Eckley to point to his best work, the small garden courtyard with outdoor living space that he created for one Seattle couple is it.

“This is a little garden where every decision counts,” says Eckley, noting he’s so proud of it he brings new employees to check it out. “It’s a garden where we have multifunctional spaces, and no detail wasn’t considered. It’s just really thoughtful and cohesive.”

The clients, Yann and Angie Christensen, a software architect and a crime-victim advocate, respectively, wanted Eckley to make the most of their small entry space of 507 square feet. On their list: screen the front patio off from the busy street, create a new entryway for the house itself, add

An Outdoor Room with a View

Eckley didn’t want people looking down at the ground, so he elevated the plantings in gunmetal steel raised beds, which gave the outdoor living room an eye-level view. “The space was designed to be really rich when you’re sitting down,” he says, “because that’s the way you’re going to appreciate the garden most of the time.”

IFan outdoor living room with a fire pit, and include a “spa deck” for Yann where he could bring his laptop and work during the day.

As a result, this garden is like a Bento box in which each piece fits together just so. Meanwhile, Eckley’s attention to the smallest details—from the garden views while seated at the fire pit to screening the front door without enclosing it—can be seen throughout.

One thing this garden is not, however, is “pretty” in a conventional way. Contrasting tones are used in both the hardscape and the plantings, and brutalist materials like concrete and steel give the space an edge (albeit one softened with textural plants like Mahonia ‘Soft Caress’ and Fatsia japonica).

“You don’t hire us because you want a ‘pretty garden,’” Eckley says. “You hire us because we will create an incredible outdoor space that’s super functional and comfortable, and is beautiful on the crappiest, gloomiest, wettest day of the year.”

Here, Eckley breaks down the elements that tie this small space together, with tips on how anyone can emulate his principles in their own yard.

TIP: To lift the eye in your garden, low beds or planters at 2 feet high or less will give you eye-level views of your plants when sitting down.

The Plants Are Saying ‘Hi’

Since guests have to walk by the outdoor living room to get to the front door, a row of pavers leads the way. To create a small foyer of sorts, Eckley hung silver orb planters that catch the light but don’t completely wall off the space from the rest of the garden.

TIP:

For a smallspace entryway, consider lightly screening it while creating a moment of visual interest. “The mirror ball planters block your view and create a boundary at the front door,” Eckley says, “but it’s like those little planters are greeting you.”

Landscape designer Scot Eckley wanted to create a space that was “super functional and comfortable.”

A Carefully Planned Escape

The Christensens wanted to use the available square footage to create more living space outdoors. They also wanted a way to beat the heat in the summer.

“Yann and Angie really conceived of this garden as a respite—a way to get away from the sun here in July and August,” Eckley says, noting that the house itself, not the plantings, created the bulk of the shade they needed.

The street, meanwhile, is a mere 10 feet away from the edge of the fire pit, so creating extra privacy was a concern. Eckley addressed this by adding overlapping concrete walls, punctuated by a well-placed Japanese maple.

Compare and Contrast

Dark tones are very on-trend right now. But that doesn’t mean the look is gloomy— quite the opposite. To contend with the darkness of Seattle’s rainy days, Eckley created contrast with plantings of ferns and hostas that pop in bright green shades against darker backdrops. Textural plants like Japanese forest grass spill out of steel planters to add drama to the look.

TIP: Use walls, screening fences, and bamboo to create privacy from the street and adjacent homes. If heat is a concern, consider locating your outdoor living room in the shadow of your home.

TIP:

“To see if your plant plan works, take a black and white picture of your plantings,” Eckley says.

“You’ll immediately see if there’s good contrast in color, size, leaves, and texture.” He adds: “If it looks good in black and white, it’s going to look good when you plant it.”

Keeping It in Perspective

One of the things Yann wanted was a spa-like area in a corner, but the couple also wanted it to be open to the rest of the garden. “They had these dreamy concept images of very lush places you’d see in Bali,” says Eckley. To give the space its own identity, he added lighter wood tones and used perspective to add depth. (In one brilliant detail that tricks the eye, Eckley used cedar for a screen with gunmetal steel behind it and textural plants in front.)

To give a deeper insight into this idea, Eckley waxes poetic in the best possible way: “Think about if we were standing next to each other in Seattle, and we were looking out at the view to infinity,” he says.

“The things closest to us would have texture, the things further away would have less, and then we’d hit the horizon where everything turns blurry and gray. … We provided really high-contrast colors between plants, and contrasted that with the backdrop to add depth.” A unique perspective on garden design, indeed.

TIP:

To create a sense of perspective, “use backdrop screens and plant plants with really big, bold textures right in front of them,” says Eckley. “This will make the plants appear to advance toward you.”

Everything in its Place.

When it comes to a well-designed home, we usually give credit to the obvious: A beautiful living room, a functional kitchen, or an inviting bedroom are the likely suspects. But what really creates a sense of day-to-day ease and beauty are the hardworking areas in between—those spaces that get little applause but do the heavy lifting. Imagine having a laundry room with dedicated places for folding and ironing, or a well-organized mudroom where there’s a designated spot to stash stray shoes and bags. Creating such areas was paramount for Camille Styles , our Sunset Idea House partner, when designing her Malibu home—so, she called in the experts at California Closets to help her custom-design spaces that would enhance her every day life with optimized storage to complement her coastal aesthetic.

The founder and editor-in-chief of her eponymous site, Styles sought function, ease, and beauty when collaborating on her primary bedroom closet, laundry room, and mudroom. “When considering these hardworking spaces of my home, I envision a feeling of calm, serenity, and deep satisfaction from knowing everything has its place,” says Styles. “These spaces can now bring an ease to how our family functions.”

The intersection of beauty and organization is where California Closets meets every client, including Styles. A pioneer in premium space management, the company delivers custom-designed organizational solutions for any and every corner of the home in a way that is uniquely personal. No detail is too obscure. No design request too high. There’s an emphasis on collaboration to make every space feel like its own. Instead of a one-size-fits-all approach, the tailor-made solution pays off for years to come. Because homeowners are looking for ways to enhance existing spaces, design consultants often see untapped potential and come up with ideas to optimize every inch, which adds to the overall value of the home.

It was this detail-rich precision that spoke to Styles for her Malibu home, which she’ll be sharing with her husband and two children. Styles admittedly has a “strong personal design aesthetic,” but she sought California Closets’ expert counsel. “I’ve learned from experience in my previous homes that the depth of a drawer, the placement of a handle, and the height of a cabinet can make all the difference when it comes to the efficiency of a space,” says Styles. “These spaces in our beach house have a modest footprint, and we’re expecting a lot out of them!”

Styles’ mudroom, for instance, will be the spot to “hang up wetsuits, kick off sandy shoes, and store beach gear and sunscreen,” while also providing garage and guest storage. “Every inch matters and I knew from working with California Closets on previous projects that their professional design consultants are geniuses when it comes to maximizing every bit of usable space and making a small area function like one that’s much larger.”

As efficient as every organizational detail is, the aesthetics are equally as critical. To honor Styles’ pursuit of a serene and calm vibe “inspired by the rocky beaches, sand, water, mountains, and grasses” of Malibu, the California Closets team considered every detail, from the colors to the metals, as part of its focus on a palette of carefully selected finishes and accessories.

Styles’ Malibu abode celebrates what a truly beautiful home needs to be: a textured, considered, warm space to live in, anchored by timeless design and hardworking organized spaces—that deserve all the praise.

FALL YOUR

GARDEN CHECKLIST

What to do in your garden now, no matter where you are in the West.

PLANT

For abundant indoor blooms, try Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), whose birdlike flowers come in orange, pink, violet, and white.

Grow containers of mint on a sunny windowsill, using fresh sprigs for cooking, as garnishes, and to make tea. Mint is available in many different flavors—look for apple, chocolate, ginger, and pineapple, as well as peppermint and spearmint.

Sow wildflower seeds in weeded beds for spring blooms. So you can tell wildflowers from weed

seedlings later, scatter a few wildflower seeds in a nursery flat for reference.

MAINTAIN

If houseplants stretch and grow leggy and spindly, they need more light. Gradually move them to a sunnier situation, such as an eastor north-facing window.

Trap fungus gnats that plague household plants by putting a mixing bowl filled with soapy water below a light left on overnight.

Dump out the bowl and the bugs in the morning.

Check for standing water in the garden. Where you find it, dig drainage channels or convert the area to a rain garden, filling it with moisture lovers like Gunneras, rushes, sedges, and dwarf willows.

Throw weeds, spent flowers, and vegetable waste into a compost bin at least 3 feet wide and high. Turn and water the pile occasionally, and you’ll have finished compost by spring.

Apply liquid fertilizer to winterblooming houseplants lightly at flowering time, but wait until spring growth begins to feed other kinds.

HARVEST

Make holiday decorations from the garden: citrus and apples spiked with cloves; rose-hip clusters in foliage wreaths; grape and wisteria vines twisted into festive shapes; eucalyptus pods, pinecones, and acorns in magnolialeaf garlands.

PROTECT

If you get freezing temperatures, cover beets, carrots, turnips, and other root crops with a foot of leaves or straw to protect them, extending harvest for a month or more.

A Fresh Start

If you haven’t heard of the online paint company Backdrop, you should familiarize yourself. After all, nobody likes wading through samples—there are just too many colors—so Backdrop has a pre-edited selection that keeps things simple. Which is why, when founders Natalie and Caleb Ebel rehabilitated their Los Angeles patio, they did what they do best: repaint.

“Our bestseller is Supermoon, so we painted the outdoor spaces in that pure white,” Natalie says. “It brightened everything up, and now the outdoor space looks brand new.”

Here, Natalie’s tips for creating an outdoor living room, dining room, and balcony that serve as functional family and entertaining spaces:

Double Take

To create an outdoor living room, Natalie bought two of the same couches and faced them toward one another. “This creates a lot of balance, and it’s great for entertaining,” she says.

Shop Till You Drop

Because she was shopping in the middle of the pandemic, almost all the outdoor furnishings and accessories came from CB2, save some hand-me-downs from her parents. Natalie didn’t order everything from the same collection, however. “This way,” she says, “nothing looks like it came as a set.”

Go Modular

The outdoor living room also functions as an outdoor theater; Natalie bought a projector, and the couches are modular so they can be swung around to face a white wall.

Cute DIY Plant Propagator

WHY SPEND MONEY TO GROW NEW CUTTINGS WHEN YOU CAN MAKE A PROPAGATOR WITH STUFF YOU HAVE AROUND THE HOUSE?

WHAT YOU NEED

4–5 yogurt or baby food jars

Garden twine Scissors

A plant to propagate

A ruler

1 Clean out your jars and remove any labels. You want the sun to be able to reach your plant, which will help the roots grow faster, and you don’t want your cute station to look like, well, old jars.

2 Take your jars and lay them out on the table. Cut a long length of twine that will leave you with about 4 inches between each jar after you tie the knots.

3 Start at the bottom and loop the twine around the lip of each jar with a double knot. Work your way up to the top, then tie a loop. Cut off any excess twine.

4 To get plant cuttings, look for the node— a small protrusion that will turn into roots—between each leaf or set of leaves. (I used a satin pothos.) Make a clean cut with sharp scissors or pruning shears until you have one cutting per jar.

Color Cohesively

An outdoor dining room also features furniture from CB2. “The style I wanted was very Mediterranean to reflect the Spanish-style home,” says Natalie. “That meant keeping a lot of neutrals and bringing in color through accents.”

Stay the Course

Although she may be great with color (the bottle-green accents with the black and white on the patio is particularly inspiring), one thing Natalie isn’t is a green thumb, so she left the original plantings.

Entertain in Style

The Ebels like to have friends over to enjoy the patio. “We always have something to snack on like olives and salty chips and anything that goes well with a cold glass of wine,” Natalie says. “Just 10 minutes out here can totally recharge me.”

5 Add water to each jar. (Be careful not to overfill!)

6 Find a spot in your home to hang your new plant propagator. You want a place that gets bright, indirect light. (Don’t hang it in a window or your plants will burn.)

7 Once you’ve hung it up, pop in your new cuttings.

Time for a Change

WHY YOU SHOULD REPLACE YOUR LAWN WITH NATIVE PLANTS.

With drought conditions continuing in the West, many of our thoughts have turned to replacing our lawns—and doing so with native plants has become something of a movement. After all, they provide food and habitat for native, beneficial species, they sequester carbon, and they are naturally and uniquely adapted to the regions in which they belong.

Lawns, meanwhile, are not well-suited to our environment. They play a role in the loss of biodiversity, consume an enormous amount of resources, and provide little benefit, according to David Newsom, founder of Wild Yards Project in Los Angeles. The good news is that we have a giant opportunity. Newsom shares how to get started.

What’s the first step for growing a native garden?

Get rid of your lawn, and that’s a simple process. You want to tear it out. Depending on the kind of person you are, you can do it yourself, or you can hire people like me to help you get out the grass. You take the grass out, and then you want to flush it with water a couple of times, get a little more grass to come up, remove that. And then you cover it with cardboard—the whole

thing. You can use old boxes, or you can buy the rollout cardboard. And you cover that cardboard with about 3 to 5 inches of mulch—a good organic fine mulch. Next, begin to just hand water that once a day and get that mulch to start to break down, and that will remediate your soil and create a nice healthy blank slate for you.

Why is cardboard beneficial?

It breaks down beautifully—worms love

it, and you end up with all this microfauna in your soil. And if you know exactly what you want to end up with— say, a native grassland—you could even lay a drip irrigation grid under the mulch to help break that cardboard down. You can do that yourself or there are all kinds of people that will help.

Then what?

What I tell people to do is to get a dryerase board and to think about the space they want. As in, what do they want that space to do? Is there a dog that’s going to run around all through it? Will kids want little pathways to run around in? Are there areas where you maybe want to have an herb garden or vegetable garden? Can you do borders of natives to create a buffer for wildlife? Spend a few weeks thinking about it and start to build your plan.

Do you recommend specific plants? Because they’re native plants, every place has different needs. But people can simply look up “native plant nursery” in their region. It might take a little sniffing around, but they exist in California, Oregon, and Washington.

That’s part of what makes it special. The beauty of creating a garden based on the indigenous plants of your biome is that you’ll have a powerful sense of place. You really begin to understand where you live and you’ll move away from these generic gardens that come from big box stores, which are basically the result of a lot of genetic tinkering and pesticides. What you’re doing is actually creating spaces that are indigenous not just to your area but to your location. So if you live on a south-facing full-sun slope, you’re going to have a different garden than someone who’s on a north-facing slope that used to be an oak woodland.

It seems like that’s the barrier to entry: getting people to understand that they need a native plant nursery. I have a friend who worked with a big advertising agency in Detroit, and he wrote to me asking for a list of the top 10 native plants for America. I was like, that’s hilarious! Because obviously, what’s native to Detroit is not going to be native to Arizona. That specificity is beautiful.

Central Coast California

Central Coast California

Los Angeles

It’s about time and worth every second

It’s about time and worth every second

theoriginalroadtrip.com

theoriginalroadtrip.com

SANTA BARBARA

scene as diverse as the landscape.

scene as diverse as the landscape.

natural beauty of Monterey County. Why wait? Plan your trip and join us here.

natural beauty of Monterey County. Why wait? Plan your trip and join us here.

CAMARILLO

seemonterey.com

seemonterey.com

Pair wine with a side of small town charm in Camarillo, where sunshine reigns supreme, tastings abound and farm-fresh flavors are everywhere! Blend your Central Coast vacation with a full-bodied experience at over a dozen family-owned wineries, tasting rooms, bistros and bottle shops.

805-201-0506 | VISITCAMARILLO.COM

Discover a gentle crescent of coast connecting breathtaking beaches, soaring mountains, verdant vineyards and eclectic communities. Where the sea and mountains meet, the sun feels more golden and the valleys overflow with a bounty of color. Santa Barbara offers exhilarating outdoor adventure, fascinating arts and culture, an incredible variety of local food and wine, and more 805-869-2632 | SANTABARBARACA.COM

SANTA MARIA VALLEY

lodging options, from historic inns and luxury resorts to rustic vineyard escapes. Recently named a “must-visit region” by the New York Times.

lodging options, from historic inns and luxury resorts to rustic vineyard escapes. Recently named a “must-visit region” by the New York Times.

Visit Gilroy

Visit Gilroy

Plan a great Gilroy getaway to enjoy family fun at Gilroy Gardens Family Theme Park, 25% to 65%

Plan a great Gilroy getaway to enjoy family fun at Gilroy Gardens Family Theme Park, 25% to 65%

Premium Outlets, and authentic Mexican food along the Gilroy Taco Trail—as well as award-winning

Mexican food along the Gilroy Taco

open spaces to explore. visitgilroy.com

open spaces to explore. visitgilroy.com

The perfect tasting experience from the oldest appellation in Santa Barbara County is found along the Foxen Canyon Wine

travelpaso.com

travelpaso.com

Trail – a pocket of meandering roads with breathtaking views and over a dozen tucked-away vineyards. Our region’s flagship varietals – cool-climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah – offer a vintage for every palate.

805-925-2403 | SANTAMARIAVALLEY.COM

W O RK

LOVE YOUR

WRITER-PRODUCER MARA BROCK AKIL’S GORGEOUS CONTEMPORARY OFFICE IN LOS ANGELES IS A CREATIVE HUB FOR WORK AND PLAY, AND THE IDEAL BACKDROP FOR AN INTIMATE DINNER PREPARED BY ANOTHER WEST ADAMS NEIGHBORHOOD STAR, CHEF KEITH CORBIN.

ara Brock Akil likes to say that her office in historic West Adams reminds her of a Phyllis Hyman song. Assured, feminine, and suedesmooth—it’s easy to see the parallels between the classic R&B singer’s sultry voice and lyrics and Brock Akil’s modern, mood-lit writer’s den. Built around a small courtyard, with ample garden space and lounge areas, and designed in collaboration with Night Palm interior design studio founder Tiffany Howell, it’s a fresh take on Hollywood glamour. And thanks to two fully stocked kitchens, it’s the ultimate spot to host what Brock Akil likes to call her “Muse Dinners,” gatherings of creative minds and open hearts around a table filled with nourishing food.

“For most of my career, I’d eat out of Styrofoam and plastic containers for lunch, like everybody else,” says Brock Akil, who created the television shows Girlfriends, Being Mary Jane, and The Game. “I can’t do that anymore. Food has to be on a plate now. I’m treating myself like a human being. And human beings are capable of creating great bodies of work. My office comes from a core belief. I’m supposed to be doing my best work in this space. So, I started by asking, ‘What is inspiring to me?’”

Night Palm’s Tiffany Howell designed Mara Brock Akil’s office and writers’ colony in a space built around a small courtyard in the West Adams neighborhood of Los Angeles. Howell worked with Portola paint to custom-blend a blush pink shade (Brock Akil’s signature color) for the walls. Most of the furniture, which channels 1970s Hollywood, is vintage.

The first answer to that inspiration question is easy: location. Brock Akil grew up visiting with her grandmother’s friends around Los Angeles’ West Adams neighborhood, and has positive, happy memories of the community.

“This street was so familiar to me,” she says. “I was born in Compton and my grandparents settled in Baldwin Vista, so this feels like coming home. I like being one of the first creatives here on the block. I know it’s changing and there are politics around the developers coming in. But I’m here. I’m claiming this space.”

Believe it or not, it was the olive tree in the tiny courtyard that first captured her attention, not the address. When she was looking at photos of potential locations for her production company, Story27, and an adjacent writers’ colony for emerging voices that she supervises, this space jumped out of the stack before she was even aware of its whereabouts.

“When I found out it was in this neighborhood, I cried,” she says. “I’m clear about my personal mission, my heart’s desire, and then to land back home where I spent my childhood? It was clear to me that this was my home.”

Once the decision was made to move in, Brock Akil enlisted the help of Howell after seeing the work the designer did for their mutual friend, actor Laura Harrier, on Instagram.

Howell’s design strategy was rooted in a palette of caramel, cream, cognac, and terracotta.

Chef Keith Corbin, who’s at the helm of nearby restaurant Alta Adams, prepared a delicious spread for this Muse Dinner, and we’ve got the recipes on the following pages. Corbin’s memoir California Soul: An American Epic of Cooking and Survival was recently published by Random House.

When the two women finally connected in person, it felt like another moment of kismet. Howell knew exactly how to help Brock Akil harness that feminine power to create a workspace unlike anything either of them had seen before. Howell’s design strategy, rooted in a palette of caramel, cream, cognac, and terracotta, added warmth and femininity to the angular, somewhat industrial-feeling bones of the building.

“Tiffany is brilliant with color,” says Brock Akil, who notes that Howell helped her incorporate her signature color, blush pink, in the contemporary design. “The color is a part of my story going back to my grandmother. I was in her house one day and I went to the bathroom and looked at the counter, and that was the color. I’m drawn to it because it feels like love. She always made good food for us and showed us love. She took great care of herself and us. I’m attracted to it because it’s part of my story. The cognac and the clay colors, the cinnamon and the blush. I can sit at my desk and look at the beautiful wallpaper, and notice the light on my desk, and just kind of bask in all of it.”

The walls are covered in this very shade, which Howell custom-blended with Portola paint. The furniture, which is mostly vintage, channels 1970s Hollywood by way of Italy, Howell’s favorite design era and heavy on curvilinear forms and sexy, low sofas, which she returns to again and again.

“Like that bar that broke the Internet,” Howell says of a pink, lacquered Willy Rizzo bar that anchors the writers’ colony common room, which has been a show-stopper on Howell’s Instagram page since she first posted it. “That’s from ma+39 [furniture shop] in Los Angeles. They know to pick up the hotline and call me when something like this comes in.”

For this Muse Dinner, the chef was none other than Keith Corbin of the acclaimed West Adams restaurant Alta Adams, which The Hollywood Reporter recently called “Black Hollywood’s top restaurant.” The late ’60s goatskinwrapped table was set with Heath Ceramics plates; copper flatware from

Hawkins, New York; pale rose linen napkins; and a lush centerpiece of white flowers from Lily Lodge, Brock Akil’s favorite florist.

“To see how happy Mara was that night, and all of the guests come in who were so blown away, that made me really happy. When I see my projects come to life in such a joyful and beautiful way, that’s my greatest reward,” says Howell.

“When people walk in here, like our dinner guests did, their eyes light up,” Brock Akil agrees. “They’re noticeably lighter, happier. I can see the pride in my employees, too, and I notice it in their work.”

When Brock Akil, Howell, and the intimate group of friends they’ve gathered sat down at the table for a vegetarian soul food meal prepared by Corbin, work was the farthest thing from anyone’s mind.

“The perfect dinner party is a blend of complimentary flavors and people and conversation,” says Brock Akil. “Everything just works. And deep, beautiful memories are made.”

WEST ADAMS REVIVAL

To cap off the evening, chef Keith Corbin served a gluten-free mixed berry tart from Winter Fate Bakes for dessert.

The neighborhood surrounding Brock Akil’s office, formerly known as the Sugar Hill Arts District, was a bustling hub of activity for Black artists and creators from the ’40s to the ’60s. In recent years, it’s seen a surge of development and attention by creative types who’ve filled the storefronts and restaurants with fresh energy and great design. Here are a few of our favorites.

Delicious Pizza by Delicious Vinyl

The iconic independent record label that introduced the world to Tone Loc, Young MC, and The Pharcyde has been in business for 30 years. The founders opened Delicious Pizza as a hub for the community.

DELICIOUSPIZZA.COM

Alsace LA Hotel

When this 48-room hotel opened in 2021, all hopes of the design district staying under the radar were dashed. Decked in creamy upholstery and warm terracotta accessories, it’s an oasis of calm in a vibrant community.

ALSACEHOTELLA.COM

Alta Adams & Adams Wine Shop

Chefs Keith Corbin and Daniel Patterson promise an inclusive setting, comforting food, great cocktails and a lively atmosphere, and they deliver on all fronts. Their interpretation of soul food, a collision of West African flavors and California cuisine, is as satisfying as it gets. Next door, the Adams Wine Shop focuses on bottles produced by women and BIPOC creators from around the world. ALTAADAMS.COM

The Global Trunk A visit to Guatemala inspired owner Josetta Sbeglia and her niece, Cathy Benavides, to open a cheery

storefront for sustainable, Fair Trade, responsible home goods and textiles showcasing the handiwork of the community.

THEGLOBALTRUNK.COM

MIZLALA

This Mediterranean grill, serving modern Moroccan/Israeli food, cranks out pillow-soft pita, spit-roasted chicken, kebabs, and Jerusalem salad in three locations across L.A.—but the West Adams outpost was the first. MIZLALA.COM/ WESTADAMS

Peace Awareness Labyrinth & Meditation Garden

Three days a week, visitors can walk the

gardens and labyrinth at the headquarters for the Movement of Spiritual and Inner Awareness.

$6, RESERVATIONS REQUIRED; PEACELABYRINTH.ORG/ TOURS

Ray Charles Foundation Memorial Library

Ray Charles’s former recording studio and office are West Adams–adjacent, but still part of the neighborhood’s heartbeat. Fans can stroll past his gold records and iconic outfits. BY APPOINTMENT; THERAYCHARLESFOUNDATION.

ORG/MEMORIAL-LIBRARY

Free Bike Tour

On the first Sunday of the month at 11 a.m., Adopt-A-Bike founder and Realtor Jose Prats leads curious cyclists on a free tour of the neighborhood, which includes a brief history of the area. (And maybe a few new listings?) CHECK OUT @ WESTADAMSBIKETOUR ON INSTAGRAM

Band of Vices Gallery

A self-described “art and culture company” committed to providing a platform to marginalized creative communities, these gallery spaces showcase a curated

exhibition program. Check out the events calendar for an updated list of happenings. BANDOFVICES.COM/ GALLERIES

Kneeland Co.

Shop owner and textile expert Joanna Williams is a purveyor of exquisite handmade goods she’s gathered during her global travels. None of it is cheap, but most of what she offers is one-of-a-kind and worth the splurge. BY APPOINTMENT; KNEELANDCO.COM

THE RECIPES

California Gombo

Chef Keith Corbin layers the flavor in this vegetable-forward vegan gombo (which is the Louisiana Creole spelling of gumbo). Red miso gives the profound broth depth, while quickcharred seasonal vegetables add crunch and color.

SERVES 6

Gombo Sauce

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

6 cloves garlic

2 tsp. minced ginger

1 red Fresno chile, quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced

2 large shallots, quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced

¼ lb. okra, quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced

1½ tsp. dark chili powder

Kosher salt to taste

5 cups vegetable stock

1 Tbsp. red miso

Juice of 1 lime

Charred Vegetables

2 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

8 medium asparagus, cut in 1-inch pieces

½ lb. sugar snap peas, cut in half crosswise

¼ medium head of Napa cabbage, cut into 1½-inch slices

12 baby carrots, cut in half lengthwise

4 scallions, cut in 1 inch pieces

1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

6 cups cooked white rice

1 cup pea shoots, roughly chopped, for garnish

¼ cup mint leaves, torn, for garnish

1. Make the gombo sauce: In a large pot over medium heat, heat oil until shimmering, about 3 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, Fresno chile, shallots, okra, chile powder, and salt. Cook until tender, stirring occasionally, 10 to 15 minutes. Add vegetable stock and simmer until thickened, about 45 minutes. Remove 2 cups of vegetables and liquid, transfer to a blender, and blend until smooth. Return mixture to the pot and simmer about 15 minutes more. Whisk in miso and lime juice and season with salt to taste.

2. Make the charred vegetables: Bring a medium saucepan filled with water to a boil. Season with kosher salt. Working in batches, blanch vegetables quickly until crisp-tender. Spread vegetables out on a sheet pan to cool.

3. In a large pan over high heat, add oil and heat until smoking, about 2 minutes. Working in batches, char vegetables slightly, about 2 minutes.

4. To serve, put 1 cup of white rice in a large bowl and flatten with the back of the scoop. Ladle gombo sauce on top. Top with charred vegetables. Garnish with pea shoots and mint leaves and serve.

Candied Yam Gratin with Brown Butter and Pecans

This buttery, super-rich, show-stopping dessert will satisfy any crowd.

SERVES 12

5 lbs. yams or sweet potatoes

1 cup granulated sugar

½ cup brown sugar

½ tsp. ground nutmeg

1½ tsp. ground cinnamon

1 Tbsp. salt

2 Tbsp. butter

4 cups almond milk

1½ cups brown butter

Candied Pecans

1 egg white

4 cups chopped pecans, plus more for garnish

1 cup sugar

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 tsp. salt

Brown Butter–Almond Milk

1 cup brown butter

1 cup almond milk

1 tsp. salt

Maldon salt, for garnish

Canola oil for searing

1. Peel and thinly slice the yams.

2. In a medium bowl, mix the sugars, spices, and salt. Rub butter on the inside of a deep baking dish. Place a piece of parchment paper at the bottom and layer yams in an overlapping pattern. Sprinkle some sugar and spice mixture evenly on top of the yams. Add another layer of yams and sugar and spice mixture.

3. In a medium pan over medium heat, heat the almond milk and brown butter until hot, about 3 minutes. Pour this mixture over the yams.

4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Put a piece of parchment on top of the baking pan and put another baking dish the same size on top. Put a weight inside the top baking dish, such as a brick or a small cast-iron pan. Place baking pan on a larger, deep-sided tray

filled halfway with water and bake for 1½ hours, or until yams are tender.

5. Transfer yams to a refrigerator and cool overnight. Remove from the pan and cut into 3-by-1½-inch slices.

6. Make the candied pecans: Reduce oven heat to 325°F. Whisk the egg white in a large bowl until frothy, then add the pecans and mix. Add the sugar, cinnamon, and salt, and stir to combine. Spread pecan mixture on a baking pan lined with a nonstick silicone baking mat and cook at 325°F, stirring every 10 minutes, until it is browned and crisp but not burnt, about 30 minutes.

7. Make the brown-butter almond milk: Combine brown butter, milk, and salt in a saucepan over medium heat and cook until hot, about 3 minutes.

8. Remove gratin from the refrigerator. Oil a griddle and sear gratin slices in batches over high heat until browned, about 2 minutes a side. Place two pieces in a bowl, add brown butter-almond milk, garnish with pecans and Maldon salt.

Deviled Eggs

Savor this elegant and herbaceous take on everyone’s favorite appetizer.

MAKES 16

8 large eggs, hardboiled and halved

3 Tbsp. mayonnaise

2 tsp. Dijon mustard

2017 DESERT WIND CABERNET SAUVIGNON ESTATE GROWN WAHLUKE SLOPE COLUMBIA VALLEY

This elegant red is instantly satisfying, delivering well-knit tannins and a lingering finish that pairs perfectly with chef Keith Corbin’s gombo. It’s part of this month’s Sunset Wine Club. Learn more at sunset. com/wineclub

1 tsp. Champagne vinegar

1½ tsp. chopped chervil

1½ tsp. chopped tarragon

½ tsp. cayenne pepper

Kosher salt, to taste

Paprika

1 Tbsp. minced chives

1. In a medium bowl, add egg yolks and use a fork to mix until smooth. Set a side egg whites. Add mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar, chervil, tarragon, and cayenne pepper, and mix well to combine. Season with salt to taste.

2. Spoon egg mixture into egg whites. Dust with paprika and garnish with minced chives.

AT AN OFF-THE-GRID RETREAT IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA, AN ARCHITECT AND A GALLERIST HAVE CURATED A MODERN, RUSTIC GETAWAY WHERE THE REAL LUXURIES ARE THOUGHTFUL DESIGN, THE ABSENCE OF TECHNOLOGY, AND AN ABUNDANCE OF TIME.

F A RM AND A WAY

country house can be a time machine. At least that’s how Todd Hosfelt sees it: “When you come here, time slows down. One day can feel like a weekend. A weekend can feel like a week. When you go back to the city, you feel like you’ve been away forever.”

AIt’s easy to see why Hosfelt says that when you look out over the rolling hills and valleys of the property in Lake County, California, that he and his husband, Louis Schump, have transformed from a working walnut farm into a weekend getaway from San Francisco. Timeless, or at least ancient, is one way you could describe the view from the deck: There’s no sign of any other home in any direction, no sound of traffic, just the rustle of a breeze through the grass. Coastal live oaks dot the hills. A striking boulder, moved here eons ago by glacial force, juts out of one hillock and is surrounded by smaller boulders and stones that have peeled off over time. Some of them line the winding paths that arc past the walnut trees, one serves as a step up to the deck, another is the floor of the outdoor shower.

Hosfelt runs Hosfelt Gallery in San Francisco. Schump is an architect at global powerhouse Gensler. Together the two creatives have curated a country getaway that is, yes, as old as the ages, but also entirely new. “We’re used to doing things custom,” says Hosfelt. “We’re willing to take chances and be experimental and are not interested in the conventional.”

The resulting second home combines agricultural vernacular references, a low-tech cabin vibe, vintage modernist furniture, lots of art, and just enough creature comforts to make it cozy while still feeling removed from the reminders of modern life. There’s no TV, no electricity, no WiFi, no gas. Wood fire supplies the heat. Kerosene lamps illuminate the space at night. The wind is the air conditioner. Combined with the stunning natural setting, the property is a work of art in itself—a conceptual and spiritual practice that the term “country house” doesn’t quite accurately convey.

The path to this agrarian getaway began nearly 14 years ago when the couple started an exhaustive search for a second home within driving distance of San Francisco, tracing roads and exploring the coast and mountains of Northern California. On one of their early sojourns, Hosfelt saw a plot of land that contained the hallmarks of the prototypical California landscape of rolling hills and old oaks. He said to Schump: “I want to live somewhere like this.” Some six years later,

The bunkhouse is equipped with Ikea bunk beds and Czech Republic army surplus blankets from a local flea market, plus pegboard that serves as an acoustic deadener and, by nature, a place for hanging all manner of decorative or functional objects.

the plot went up for sale and the couple bought it. And so began a very intentional, highly considered build-out of the 21-acre property. Bisected diagonally by a seasonal creek, the property has two halves: One is very flat with a working walnut orchard that serves almost as a sculpture garden in fallow months. The other is rolling grassland and those classic old California views.

One of their first projects was to build a small structure for their well, pump, and tractor. They settled on a corrugated modular building system called Steelmaster and created a barn while they studied the land and contemplated how to construct the main dwelling. They considered stick-built construction and shipping containers but liked their little barn so much they decided to use Steelmaster again. The upsides: They could enclose the largest amount of space for the least amount of money; any construction crew could execute the simple build; steel was relatively fire safe. And, Hosfelt points out, it’s actually agricultural,

and therefore authentically vernacular.” The downsides: no insulation. “It’s a bit like living in a tent,” Hosfelt adds. But that’s exactly the sort of detail that inspired Hosfelt and Schump to get creative with solutions that are both practical and artful: They heat the space with wood-burning stoves, including a massive Italian cookstove that not only provides roaring heat and cooked meals, but is also a handsome, brooding focal point in the airy steel space. Schump designed two Steelmaster buildings with a redwood deck in between. One building is the “cookhouse,” while the other is the “bunkhouse.” In the cookhouse, there’s a simple pegboard kitchen and an open living room filled with art and vintage pieces they’ve gathered over the years, including Bertoia and Jens Risom lounge chairs. The bunkhouse comprises a bathroom, a sleeping loft, and the primary bedroom. Both structures have huge, rolling barn doors made of steel and polygal that open completely onto the deck, where in the summer a canopy of camo netting

offers shade. The floor is painted white so that when all the walls are open to the air, the interior of the structure glows, picking up the sun in the day and the gleam of the lanterns and the stove at night.

Rather than build a driveway up to the dwelling, they intentionally set the parking area far from the main building to ritualize the arrival and shed whatever they came from: the city, or work, or traffic, or worries. They park near the barn where they

first imagined a perfect retreat from the modern world.

“We unload the car into a wheelbarrow, trundle through the orchard, cross a footbridge over the creek, and follow a path that curves around an ancient oak and a huge boulder,” says Hosfelt.

At the end of the walk is their house and its perfect view up Bachelor Valley. “We arrive and are in a completely different world and state of mind.”

“When you come here, time slows down. One day can feel like a weekend. A weekend can feel like a week.”

FOOD & DRINK

A Slice of the West

Renowned pizzaiolo

Daniele Uditi shares the secrets to billowy, charred pizzas that expertly blend the traditions of Italy and regional flavors.

When chef Daniele Uditi moved to California from Italy 10 years ago, he was accompanied by a secret companion. In his suitcase, he’d hidden a container of his family’s sourdough starter, a living, growing, flavor-improving treasure known in Italian as a crescere, the critical ingredient in transcendent pizza dough.

Born of the ambient yeast of Naples, the spiritual seat of perfect pizza, this crescere became the foundation on which Uditi refined his craft as a pizzaiolo, absorbing the culinary influences of California, its farmers markets, its produce, and its multicultural foodways, eventually producing the billowy blistered crust

served at Pizzana, the restaurant chain he helms with Candace and Charles Nelson, the culinary entrepreneurs behind Sprinkles Cupcakes. The sleek Pizzana restaurants are the minimalist backdrop for Uditi’s vibrantly topped, expertly baked pies. Take, for example, his elote pizza, an homage to his Mexican wife: Adorned with charred corn, spicy mayo, cotija, Oaxaca cheese, and cilantro, it channels all the flavors of Los Angeles street corn, albeit with Neapolitan flair. His sole d’oro is topped with peak-season Sungold tomatoes, dressed with garlic, shaved zucchini, squash blossoms, and an herbaceous hit of fresh mint instead of the usual basil, and tastes like a freewheeling weekend visit to the farmers’ market.

In pizzas such as these, Uditi has developed a formula that’s a perfect balance of Southern California and Southern Italy, with all of the technique but none of the orthodoxy. Here, we present a masterclass in Uditi’s next-level West Coast pizza perfection.

Daniele Uditi’s Pizza Best Practices

Don’t toss your dough: Tossing does nothing to make pizza better. It’s show-offy at best and will lead to torn crust at worst. Stretch it by hand on the counter to make sure your crust has an even and consistent thickness from edge to edge.

Always use a pizza stone: You’ll never get the crunchy bottom crust if you cook your pizza on a sheet pan. Preheat the stone in your oven at 500°F a good halfhour before cooking. For super crunchy crust, turn on your broiler to get the stone extra hot five minutes before you cook your pizza.

Don’t over-top your pizza: Too much moisture is the enemy of pizza and overtopping your crust will make it soggy. Throw on just enough toppings to get a perfect mix of each ingredient in every bite. You want some of the crust visible in between the toppings.

Put the cheese on last: Most cheeses cook faster than dough, so only add your cheese three to five minutes before the pizza is fully cooked.

Cool your pizza on a rack: Immediately transfer your cooked pizza to a wire rack. If you put it on a wooden pizza peel or board, that crisp bottom you worked so hard for will steam and get soggy before you can enjoy it.

Finish with oil: For extra richness and flavor, drizzle your pizza with extra-virgin olive oil once it’s out of the oven. If you add it at the beginning, it will smoke and develop a bitter taste.

Pizza Dough

MAKES 4–5 BALLS FOR 12-INCH PIZZAS

7 2 3 cup King Arthur bread flour or 0 or 00 Caputo flour

2¾ cup water, at room temperature

1 Tbsp. active dry yeast

2 Tbsp. sea salt

1. Add the flour and water in a large mixing bowl. Using your hands, combine the ingredients until the mixture comes together, approximately 10–15 minutes. Let rest for 30 minutes.

2. Dissolve the yeast in ¼ cup lukewarm water. Add this liquid to the flour mixture. Using your hands or a stand mixer, knead the dough until all the liquid is fully integrated into the dough, approximately 3–4 minutes.

3. Once the yeast is fully absorbed, add sea salt and continue mixing either by hand or with the stand mixer. The process of kneading should last 10–15 minutes to start developing the gluten, which yields pillowy stretchy dough.

4. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let rest for at least an hour at room temperature.

5. Use a dough cutter to divide the dough into 4 to 5 ball shapes. Place each ball of dough on a tray under plastic wrap or in a covered plastic container and let proof at room temperature for 5–6 hours. The balls of dough should double in size.

Neo Margherita

“The Neo Margherita was one of the first pizzas I created at Pizzana,” Uditi says. “While I’ll always love a classic margherita, I wanted to play with tradition and find a way to reinterpret it for an entirely new experience. The basil crumb topping ensures that every bite has an infusion of basil flavor, and we invert the construction so the tomato ‘sauce’ is actually a reduction featured on top of each slice.”

MAKES 1 12-INCH PIZZA

1 Tbsp. semolina or all-purpose flour, for dusting surface

1 Pizza Dough ball (see recipe at left)

4 oz. fior di latte or fresh mozzarella

1 3 cup double-concentrated San Marzano tomato paste

¼ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano

2 Tbsp. dried basil, blended into a powder using a spice grinder or blender

4 leaves fresh basil, torn in half

Extra-virgin olive oil, for garnish Maldon salt, to taste

1. An hour before cooking, place pizza stone in oven and preheat to 500°F.

2. While the oven preheats, prepare the dough. Dust a clean countertop with flour to prevent the dough from sticking.

3. To stretch the dough, start by pressing down in the center of the ball, using your fingers to flatten the center. Continue to gently press and push the dough out from the center to form the crust, leaving a 1½-inch rim around the circumference of the pizza. Stop when the dough is approximately 12 inches in diameter. Transfer it from the countertop to a floured pizza peel.

4. Using your hands, tear the fior di latte or mozzarella into pieces approximately 2 inches in diameter. Disperse evenly across the dough. Add large dollops of tomato paste over the pizza. Sprinkle on the Parmigiano Reggiano.

5. Using the pizza peel, transfer the pizza to the pizza stone. Bake 7–9 minutes. No need to rotate the pizza halfway through.

6. Top the pizza with basil powder, fresh basil leaves, a drizzle of olive oil, and Maldon salt to taste.

Sole d’Oro

“The Sole d’Oro is a tribute to Sungold tomatoes, one of my favorite varieties of tomatoes,” Uditi says. “They are a type of cherry tomato, but with a slightly tropical flavor that is really beautiful both raw and cooked. This pizza features both, along with zucchini blossoms and zucchini ribbons that add extra dimension.”

MAKES 1 12-INCH PIZZA

¾ cup Sungold tomatoes, halved

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish

Pinch of Maldon salt

1 Tbsp. semolina or all-purpose flour, for dusting surface

1 Pizza Dough ball (see recipe on previous page)

3 baby zucchinis, sliced ¼-inch thick

6–8 zucchini blossoms

2½ oz. fior di latte or fresh mozzarella

2 Tbsp. grated Parmigiano Reggiano

3–4 oz. burrata (1 standard ball)

3 basil leaves, torn in half

Freshly ground black pepper

1. An hour before cooking, place a pizza stone in oven and preheat to 500°F.

2. While the oven preheats, combine tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Stir with a spoon and let marinate for 15–60 minutes.

3. Dust a clean countertop with flour to prevent the dough from sticking. To stretch the dough, start by pressing down in the center of the ball, using your fingers to flatten the center. Gently push the dough out from the center to form the crust, leaving a 1½-inch rim around the circumference of the pizza. Stop when the pizza is approximately 12 inches in diameter. Transfer it from the countertop to a pizza peel.

4. Drape the sliced zucchini over the

dough. To keep the zucchini from making the crust soggy, twist and curl slices so they don’t lie perfectly flat. Layer the blossoms over the zucchini slices. Add half the marinated tomatoes, allowing liquid to drain back into bowl.

5. Transfer the pizza from the peel to the pizza stone. Bake at 500°F for 6 minutes.

6. Remove the pizza from the oven. Use your hands to pull the fior di latte or mozzarella into pieces approximately 2 inches in diameter. Disperse evenly across the pizza and then scatter the grated Parmigiano Reggiano over the surface.

7. Return pizza to oven and bake an additional 3–4 minutes to allow the cheese to melt.

8. Remove the pizza from the oven. Finish it with the remaining tomatoes. Scoop the burrata onto the center of the pizza, allowing it to ooze slightly out. Scatter basil leaves across the top of the pizza. Finish with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

Freeze Frame

Frozen pizza is a culinary convenience we can get behind, particularly when an eightminute bake in the oven yields Daniele Uditi’s classic margherita, pepperoni, or creamy cacio e pepe. Order frozen pies from Pizzana at goldbelly.com

ELOTE

“My wife is Mexican, so I created the Elote pizza as a tribute to her and her heritage,” Uditi says. “I love that this pizza balances the smoky heat of chipotle in adobo with sweet corn and the salinity of fresh feta. While it’s an unexpected combination, to me it’s the perfect marriage of flavors.”

MAKES 1 12-INCH PIZZA

FOR THE RANCHERO SAUCE

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 red bell peppers, thinly sliced

1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced

¼ tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 chipotle pepper from a can of chipotles in adobo

FOR THE CHIPOTLE MAYO

1 cup mayonnaise

2 chipotle peppers from chipotles in adobo

¼ cup loosely packed cilantro leaves

Juice of 2 limes

¼ tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE PIZZA

1 ear fresh sweet corn

1 Tbsp. semolina or all-purpose flour, for dusting surface

1 Pizza Dough ball (see recipe on previous spread)

½ cup Ranchero Sauce

½ cup Oaxaca cheese (provolone or a dry mozzarella also works)

¼ cup Chipotle Mayo

2 Tbsp. cotija cheese

Juice of 1 lime

8 cilantro leaves

1. To make the ranchero sauce, heat olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the bell pepper and onion and cook until soft, stirring occasionally to avoid burning, about 7–9 minutes.

2. Season the bell pepper and onion with salt and pepper and add the chipotle pepper and water to the pan. Continue to cook over medium heat, bringing the water to a boil, then lower the temperature and simmer about 5 minutes, until the water has reduced by half, leaving approximately ¼ cup in the pan.

3. Remove mixture from heat and transfer to a blender. Blend over high speed until creamy.

4. To make the chipotle mayo, combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.

5. To make the pizza, first remove corn husk and all stray cornsilk. Set a gas burner on medium-high heat. Using a pair of long kitchen tongs, sear corn over the flame, being careful to rotate so as not to burn the kernels. You want the surface to be lightly charred; this will take 1–2 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool before cutting the kernels from the cob with a knife. Set aside.

6. An hour before cooking, place pizza stone in oven and preheat to 500°F.

7. While the oven preheats, prepare the dough. Dust a clean countertop with flour to prevent the dough from sticking.

8. To stretch the dough, start by

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VALLE DE

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pressing down in the center of the ball, using your fingers to flatten the center. Gently push the dough out from the center to form the crust, leaving a 1½-inch rim around the of the pizza. Stop when the pizza is approximately 12 inches in diameter. Transfer it from the countertop to a pizza peel.

9. Spoon the ranchero sauce over the dough, leaving 1½ inches from the edge. Scatter the Oaxacan cheese and the roasted corn evenly over the pizza.

10. Transfer the pizza from the peel to the pizza stone. Bake at 500°F for 7–9 minutes. Remove the pizza from the oven.

11. Add teaspoon-size dollops of chipotle mayo across the pizza. Sprinkle evenly with cotija cheese. Squeeze the lime juice over the pizza. Garnish with cilantro.

Steamed Eggplant With Soy Sauce and Garlic

RECIPE ON NEXT SPREAD

Very Very Chinese, Vegan

IN HER NEW COOKBOOK, CHEF HANNAH CHE EXPLORES THE PLANT-BASED TRADITIONS OF CHINESE CUISINE WITH RECIPES THAT ARE HEALTHY, SUSTAINABLE, AND RICH IN HISTORY.

an veganism go viral? If anyone can accomplish that in the world of Chinese cuisine, it’s Hannah Che. Hailing from Portland and now based in Taipei, Taiwan, the chef, photographer, food stylist, and author has made a name for herself chronicling her adventures in vegan Chinese cooking across her blog and social channels. Watch her drool-inducing Instagram videos (@hannah.che) of nori-wrapped tofu pan-fried and glazed in sticky teriyaki sauce or fluffy black-sesame buns emerging fresh from the steamer, and you, too, will join the 100,000-plus social acolytes showering “likes” on her posts of plant-forward, photo-worthy, and above all delicious approach to Chinese cooking. While Che’s evangelization of vegan cooking is on trend, the traditions and recipes from which she

takes inspiration are as old as the ages. Vegan Chinese cooking has its roots in Buddhist zhai cai culinary philosophy, in which seasonal vegetables are prepared with umami-rich dried shiitake mushrooms, deeply flavored black vinegar, and briny fermented black soybeans, with an added layer of complexity often coming from wok hei, the distinctive smoky char imparted by high-heat wok cooking. Dishes from this tradition and more are included in her new book, The Vegan Chinese Kitchen: Recipes and Modern Stories From a Thousand-Year-Old Tradition: A Cookbook (Clarkson Potter; $35), a vital and inspiring resource for any serious cook who wants to add more plant-based dishes to their repertoire. Here, we’ve excerpted her excellent vegan versions of Chinese classics for you to recreate in your home kitchen.

Steamed Eggplant With Soy Sauce and Garlic

“Steaming is my dad’s favorite way to prepare eggplant,” Che writes. “He usually seasons the eggplant with soy sauce, a tremendous amount of minced raw garlic, and sesame oil, but I like to add a splash of dark Chinkiang vinegar to mellow the garlic notes and sugar and to edge it toward a more sweet-and-sour taste.”

SERVES 4

SAUCE

1 fresh red chile, seeded and finely chopped

3–5 garlic cloves, to taste, minced

3½ Tbsp. soy sauce

1 tsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. Chinkiang black vinegar

½ tsp. toasted sesame oil

1 lb. Chinese or Japanese eggplants (about 3 small)

2 Tbsp. thinly sliced scallions, both green and white parts

1 tsp. ground chile or chile flakes

1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

1. To make the sauce, combine all the sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside.

2. Cut the eggplants into pieces to fit in your steamer. Bring approximately 1½ cups water to a boil in a wok or skillet (amount will vary depending on the size of your wok or skillet), then cover with a steamer on top and steam the eggplants for 10–12 minutes, until the skin is wrinkled and the flesh is no longer chewy or spongy but tender enough to pierce through with a chopstick. Remove the eggplants from the steamer, drain any excess water, and set them aside until cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes.

3. Tear the warm eggplant into long strips you can pick up with a chopstick and place them in a bowl. Pour in the sauce mixture and then place the scallions and ground chiles on top.

4. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over high heat until shimmering and nearly smoking, then pour the hot oil over the eggplant and aromatics to release their flavors. Stir well to combine. Serve immediately, or chill before enjoying.

Blistered Dry-Fried String Beans

“In the original dry-frying method, the green beans are slowly cooked in a dry pan until their skins wrinkle, but restaurants almost always deep-fry the beans, which is more efficient and generates the shriveled, oil-blistered exterior people have come to associate with the dish. Yacai is a finely chopped Sichuan preserved vegetable that has become more widely available in Asian supermarkets in recent years and is a key ingredient in Sichuan dishes like dan dan noodles. If you can’t find it, omit it or replace it with 1 Tbsp. fermented black beans, coarsely chopped.”

SERVES 4

SAUCE

1 tsp. soy sauce

1 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine

Dash of white pepper, ground

Vegetable oil, as needed

14 oz. string beans, ends trimmed, beans longer than 3 inches cut in half

STIR-FRY

5 or 6 dried chiles, snipped into ½-inch pieces and seeds shaken out

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger

1 tsp. whole Sichuan peppercorns, or ½ tsp. ground Sichuan peppercorns

2 Tbsp. minced Sichuan pickled greens (yácài) Kosher salt, to taste

1. To make the sauce, stir together all ingredients in a small bowl.

2. To cook the beans using the deep-frying method (fastest): Heat 2 cups oil in a wok over high heat to 350°F, until a wooden or bamboo chopstick forms a steady stream of bubbles when inserted. Drop half the string beans into the oil and fry until the skins are blistered and slightly shriveled, about 2 minutes. Remove

them with a spider strainer or skimmer and drain them on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining string beans. Pour the oil into a heatproof container and reserve for another use.

3. To cook the beans using the dry-fry method: Heat a wok or skillet over high heat, add 1 Tbsp. oil, and swirl to coat the surface of the wok. Immediately reduce the heat to low. Working in batches, place the beans in the wok in a single layer and let them cook, without stirring, until they are wrinkled and dry on the bottom, about 5 minutes per side. Remove them from the wok, set aside, and repeat with the remaining green beans.

4. To make the stir-fry, heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a wok over high heat until the oil is shimmering. Add the dried chiles, garlic, ginger, and Sichuan peppercorns and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the cooked string beans to the wok along with the pickled greens, and stir-fry briskly to combine. Add the sauce mixture, pouring it down the hot side of the wok to release the flavor, and toss with the string beans a few times until the liquid has mostly evaporated and the beans are piping hot and coated in the seasonings, about 2 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed (usually the pickled greens are salty enough), then transfer to a dish and serve immediately.

PERFECT PAIRING

2020 BRIAN

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“I learned how to make the vegetarian version of the dish from Chef Li, a Sichuanese chef, who explained that the four essential ingredients are the fermented black beans, chili bean paste, ground Sichuan peppercorns, and ground red chiles—everything else was negotiable. He used minced shiitake mushrooms in place of the ground beef and taught me to thicken the dish with three rounds of starch slurry, until the tofu was suspended in a silky, viscous sauce. We toasted fresh red peppercorns in oil and ground up more peppercorns to sprinkle on the dish for the famous numbing sensation.”

For more plant-based recipes from Hannah Che, pick up a copy of The Vegan Chinese Kitchen at your local independent bookseller or online.

SERVES 4–6

4 or 5 dried shiitake mushrooms

Kosher salt

14–16 oz. firm tofu, cut into ¾-inch cubes

1 Tbsp. potato starch

3 Tbsp. vegetable oil

2 tsp. whole Sichuan peppercorns

5 dried red chiles, cut into ¾-inch segments and seeds shaken out

1 Tbsp. fresh ginger, peeled and minced

1 Tbsp. fresh garlic, minced

1 Tbsp. fermented black beans, rinsed and coarsely chopped

2½ Tbsp. Sichuan chili bean paste

1 tsp. ground Sichuan chile or chili flakes

1 cup unsalted stock of any kind, or water

½ tsp. sugar

1 tsp. soy sauce

2 scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced, for garnish

½ tsp. ground Sichuan peppercorns

1. Soak the mushrooms in a small bowl of hot water for 30 minutes to rehydrate, then drain, stem, and finely chop them.

2. In a medium pot, bring 4 cups of salted water to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, add the tofu cubes, and simmer gently for 10 minutes to refresh the tofu’s flavors and firm it up.

3. Make a slurry by combining the potato starch with ¼ cup cold water in a small bowl. Stir until smooth and set aside.

4. Heat a wok over medium heat until a bead of water evaporates immediately upon contact. Add the oil, swirling to coat the sides of the wok. Reduce heat to low. Add the whole Sichuan peppercorns and dried chiles, and stir-fry 1–2 minutes to infuse the oil with flavor, until the chiles are slightly darkened in color and aromatic. Do not burn them. Remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, remove and discard the spices, leaving behind the aromatic oil.

5. Return the wok to medium-high heat and add the mushrooms, ginger, and garlic. Fry for 1 minute, until the mushrooms are beginning to brown. Scoot them up one side of the wok.

6. Add the fermented black beans, chili bean paste, and ground chile, and stir-fry briefly for 10 seconds to release their fragrance. Pour in the stock, then add sugar and soy sauce. Bring the liquid to a boil. Lift the tofu cubes from the hot water with a slotted spoon and place them gently in the wok. To keep them from breaking, don’t stir; instead, move the wok in a swirling motion, shifting the sauce as it bubbles under the tofu. Bring to a full boil.

7. Give the starch slurry a stir and drizzle about a third of it into the wok, swirling the wok gently to mix in the slurry as the liquid thickens. Repeat this two more times, until the sauce is glossy and clings to the tofu, then remove the wok from the heat and transfer everything to a serving dish. Sprinkle with the scallions and the ground peppercorns (these provide the tingly mouthfeel), and serve.

ON A BUCOLIC FARM IN LAKE COUNTY, CALIFORNIA, A RARE SPICE IS LOVINGLY CULTIVATED, DRIED, AND PACKED BY A DEVOTED CADRE OF CROCUS OBSESSIVES. WE JOIN THIS COMMITTED CREW AT THEIR ANNUAL HARVEST FEAST FOR A VIVID ARRAY OF DELICIOUS DISHES AND DRINKS.

A FEAST HARVEST SAFFRON

But that is exactly what’s happening at Peace & Plenty Farm in Kelseyville, California, on this early autumn day. Chef Arnon Oren and farmers Melinda Price and Simon Avery are in a former horse paddock strewn with bales of hay for seats, slabs of wood from fallen trees covered with plates, and platters of dishes tinged yellow and gold by saffron grown right here on this picture-perfect property ringed with white fences in a valley of small farms and low-slung houses.

Today they have assembled a few friends to enjoy last year’s bounty before this year’s harvest commences. Roasted chicken glistens gold upon gold, deviled eggs bedevil with yolks as yellow as the sun, and poached pear galette, warmed in the oven, is draped with a melting dollop of saffron-tinged vanilla ice cream. It’s this dessert that got the chef to finally take a seat and savor a bite of his own food. This will be the most leisurely dinner of the next two months for Price and Avery, as the harvest is only weeks away and the busiest time of their year will overtake every waking minute. When they raise a glass of grapefruit, gin, and saffron syrup, and toast one another’s good fortune, you know they mean it.

Peace & Plenty is a rarity in the world of saffron, as most of the saffron you find in stores comes from the Mediterranean and the Middle East. Of the handful of small farms growing saffron in the United States, Peace & Plenty is the largest and best known, though in the world of domestic saffron “large” is a relative term. For most of the year, Price and Avery tend to the farm with a few helpers, bringing on interns to help during harvest. Oren is an alum of Chez Panisse and the proprietor of Anaviv, a catering and culinary events company, and cooks pop-up dinners at Peace & Plenty.

While the rise-and-sleep-by-the-sun pace of agriculture puts a premium on time, saffron might be even more demanding. The flower Crocus sativus plays hard to get, living bulb-like under the ground and dormant for much of the year, punching through the dirt and flowering for just a few

weeks in early autumn, giving up its pistils to those with enough patience to wait and enough fortitude to work the harvest that requires endless stooping, plucking, separating, and drying the spice in a sprint. This exceptional amount of labor accounts for a fair part of the $5,000-perpound price this culinary delight demands.

By color alone, saffron is the essence of ethereal, the delicate stigma and styles of the flower are a deep crimson, though it stains fingers and food a vivid gold. The crocus flowers from which it’s plucked each fall are contrasting light purple in hue. As an ingredient saffron beguiles, too. Its flavor is equally elusive when infused into water or oil or butter, imbuing both savory and sweet dishes with honeyed, earthy, and floral notes, tasting of hay, a little pungent, but lingering and layered and ultimately luxurious. Enjoy its beauty on these pages and in these recipes.

It’s not often that a chef and a farmer are able to sit down to dinner and enjoy the fruits of their combined labor.

Saffron

Grapefruit Fizz

A LIGHT AND EFFERVESCENT COCKTAIL THAT’S PERFECT FOR AN EARLY AUTUMN PARTY.

MAKES 2 COCKTAILS

2 oz. gin

4 oz. grapefruit juice

2 oz. saffron simple syrup (see recipe on next page)

4 oz. prosecco

1. Combine the gin, grapefruit juice, and saffron simple syrup in a shaker filled with ice. Shake briefly.

2. Strain evenly into two Champagne flutes or coupes.

3. Pour prosecco over top and serve.

Saffron Deviled Eggs

Saffron aioli turns the yolks a sunset yellow. Use extra aioli as a sauce for chicken, fish, or sandwiches. It will keep in the refrigerator for a week.

SERVES 4

5–10 saffron threads

1 egg yolk

Kosher salt

1 cup olive oil

4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise

1 tsp. chopped brined capers

1 Tbsp. chopped cornichons

2 Tbsp. chives, divided

1 tsp. diced shallots

1. Place the saffron in a skillet and bring to medium-high heat. Gently toast until the skillet is too hot for you to touch the center with your finger, about 1–2 minutes.

2. Transfer the saffron to a mortar and pestle, and grind it into a fine powder.

3. Pour 3 Tbsp. of slightly warm water into the mortar. Set aside.

4. To make aioli, place the egg yolk in a medium bowl and add a pinch of salt. Whisk the yolk and start to drizzle the olive oil in very slowly. The yolk and the olive oil will start emulsifying. Continue to whisk vigorously. When it starts to get thick, pour a very small amount of the saffron liquid into the aioli to soften it and continue whisking. Keep adding olive oil until it thickens again. Add more saffron water to your liking.

5. Remove the cooked yolks from the whites. Set aside egg white halves. In a medium bowl, smash the yolks with a fork until smooth. Add the capers, cornichons, half the chives, and shallots. Mix well.

6. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons saffron aioli and mix well. For more saffron flavor, add more of the aioli. Salt to taste.

7. Spoon the saffron-egg yolk mixture into the egg white halves, and garnish with remaining chives.

Saffron Simple Syrup

THIS IS AN EASY WAY TO PRESERVE THE ESSENCE OF THE SPICE.

MAKES ½ CUP

5–10 saffron threads ½ cup water 1 cup sugar

1. Place the saffron in a skillet and bring to medium-high heat. Gently toast until the skillet is too hot for you to touch the center with your finger, about 1–2 minutes.

2. Transfer the saffron into a mortar and pestle, and grind it into a fine powder.

3. Place water and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over mediumhigh heat until the sugar dissolves.

4. Take ¼ cup of the warm syrup and pour over the saffron inside the mortar. Stir it around and pour it back into the saucepan. Let cool before using. Store extra syrup covered in the refrigerator for up to a month.

Sautéed Rainbow Chard with Saffron Compound Butter

Infusing butter with saffron is a great way to extend and transmit flavor to whatever you mix it with.

SERVES 4

COMPOUND BUTTER

½ stick unsalted butter, room temperature

10–20 saffron threads, toasted and ground into a powder

Kosher salt, to taste

2 bunches rainbow chard, stemmed and washed

2 Tbsp. olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. To make the compound butter, combine butter and saffron powder in a small bowl and mix until fully incorporated. Salt to taste. Place butter on a piece of plastic wrap and roll into a small log. Chill for at least 2 hours. It will keep for 2 weeks, refrigerated.

2. To make the salad, roughly chop the chard leaves. Set a large pan over medium heat, add the olive oil and heat 2 minutes. Add the chard and cook, stirring occasionally. Add ¼ cup water, cover with a lid, and cook until tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm with a slice of the saffron butter on top.

Chicory and Beet Salad with Champagne Vinaigrette and Saffron Aioli Drizzle

Bittersweet chicory and luscious beets are napped with saffron aioli.

SERVES 4

1 red beet

1 Chioggia beet

1 golden beet

2 dried bay leaves

½ cup plus 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium shallot, finely diced

¼ cup Champagne vinegar

Kosher salt

Black pepper, freshly ground

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium heads radicchio

½ orange, sliced Saffron aioli

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. Wash the beets well. Place the beets in a small ovenproof dish with 1 cup water, bay leaves, and 1 tsp. olive oil. Cover with foil and roast until the beets are soft when you put a knife through them, about 1½ hours.

3. In the meantime, prepare the vinaigrette. Place the diced shallot in a small bowl and pour vinegar over top. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and let it sit for 10 minutes. Add the olive oil and whisk thoroughly to combine.

4. Tear the leaves of the radicchio into bite-size pieces. Place in a large serving bowl and transfer to the refrigerator until ready to assemble.

5. When the beets are cool enough to handle, peel and cut into ½-inch cubes.

6. Place the beets in a small bowl with ½ cup olive oil. Add orange slices, and season with salt and pepper.

Autumn Vegetable and Chickpea Saffron Ragoût

A rustic-luxe dish is shot through with the essence of saffron.

SERVES 4

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 yellow onions, diced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

5 saffron threads, toasted and ground with a mortar and pestle

4 roma tomatoes, diced

2 dried bay leaves

2 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped

1 cinnamon stick

Perfect Pairing

The Sunset Wine Club features the best bottles in the West, perfectly paired with these recipes and delivered straight to your door. Learn more at sunset.com/wineclub

This is a rosé with gravitas that’s a great option for the beet salad. Wild strawberries and crushed stones abound with bright acidity and medium body.

Drink this white wine with the sautéed rainbow chard. Pleasant acidity and a long finish mirrors the nose with peach skins and fresh stone fruit.

1 large celery root, peeled and diced

1 medium butternut squash, peeled and diced

2 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. In a large pan over medium heat, add the olive oil and onions, and cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more.

2. Add saffron, tomatoes, bay leaves, and thyme, and cook for 5 minutes.

3. Add cinnamon stick, all the vegetables, salt and pepper to taste, and cook, covered, for 30 minutes, or until vegetables are soft and slightly but not too soupy. You may add a little water if needed.

A match for the vegetable and chickpea ragout, this wine has an ample body with richness and silkiness. It shows a great balance of energy and lift.

Chicken in Saffron Butter and Leeks

Humble chicken thighs are ennobled by a saffron-tinged honey brine, creating a dish that’s by turns comforting and luxurious.

SERVES 4

4 whole chicken legs

BRINE

8 cups water

½ cup sea salt

¼ cup honey

2 bay leaves

4 cloves garlic

10 saffron threads, toasted and ground into powder with a mortar and pestle

BRAISE

1 bunch leeks

10 saffron threads, toasted and ground into powder with a mortar and pestle

2 dried bay leaves

1. To make the brine: In a medium pot, bring 2 cups water to a boil and add salt, honey, bay leaves, and garlic cloves. Reduce to a simmer, stirring occasionally, and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add saffron powder, stir to combine.

2. In a large bowl, combine brine mixture and remaining 6 cups water. Add chicken legs, cover with plastic wrap, transfer to refrigerator, and let sit 8–12 hours.

3. To braise the chicken: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the leeks into thin circles and wash in water to remove grit. Place leeks in a large roasting pan. Remove the chicken legs from the brine and place them, skin side down, over the leeks.

4. Bring ½ cup water to a boil. Add the saffron powder and stir to combine. Pour the mixture into the roasting pan. Add bay leaves and cover with foil. Roast for 45 minutes.

5. Remove the foil, turn the chicken legs skin side up, and roast until the chicken skin is golden and crispy, about 15 minutes more. Serve with the leeks and the juices.

Poached Pear Galette with Saffron Ice Cream

It’s best to poach the pears a day before making the galette.

SERVES 4

FILLING

4 Bosc pears, peeled and cored

1 bottle red wine

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

1 pod star anise

4 juniper berries

4 allspice berries

1 cinnamon stick

½ lemon or orange

DOUGH

2 Tbsp. sugar

Kosher salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

6 oz. butter, cold and cut into cubes

¼ cup cold water

2 oz. melted butter, for brushing the galette

2 tsp. sugar, for sprinkling on the galette

Saffron Ice Cream (see recipe at right)

1. To poach the pears, combine all ingredients in a large pot. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the pears are soft when you put a knife in them, about 10–15 minutes.

2. Let the pears cool down in the liquid. Once no longer hot, transfer to the refrigerator and continue to cool, ideally overnight. For the galette, cut them lengthwise into ¼-inch slices.

3. To make the dough, combine sugar, salt, and flour in a mixer at medium speed. Add the butter and keep mixing until the butter cubes become the size of peas. Slowly add the water until the dough comes together, but some small, pea-size chunks of butter remain.

4. Scrape the dough from the bowl and

gently form it into a round ball, taking care to not knead it. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour.

5. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

6. Dust your counter with a little bit of flour. Using a rolling pan, roll the dough into a long rectangle of pastry, about ¼-inch thick. Place the flat dough on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper.

7. Sprinkle the dough with a little bit of flour. Arrange the sliced pears on the dough, leaving about ½-inch from the edge clear. Fold the edges of the dough to create a nice edge around the galette.

8. Brush the folded edge with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar.

9. Bake for about 35 minutes until golden brown on the edges. Remove the parchment paper and transfer the galette to a cooling rack, discarding parchment paper.

10. Serve warm with Saffron Ice Cream.

Saffron Ice Cream

MAKES ABOUT 1 QT.

2 cups heavy cream, cold 1 cup whole milk

¾ cup sugar

Pinch of salt

20 saffron threads, toasted and ground to a powder with a mortar and pestle

5 egg yolks

1. Pour the heavy cream into a medium bowl and keep cold in refrigerator.

2. In a small pot over medium heat, warm the milk, sugar, and salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar is melted, about 3 minutes.

3. Take ½ cup of the warm milk mixture and pour over the saffron in the mortar. Let steep for 3 minutes, then pour it back into the warm milk.

4. Whisk the yolks in a medium bowl.

5. Pour ½ cup of the saffron milk into the yolks, whisking

constantly, then pour entire mixture back into the hot milk pot to start creating a custard.

6. Cook the custard slowly, while stirring constantly, preferably with a wooden spoon, about 10–15 minutes. The custard is ready when it gets a little thicker and it coats the spoon.

7. Use a fine strainer to quickly strain the custard into the cold bowl of cream. Using the back of a spoon, press the saffron as much as possible into the cream.

8. Let the custard cool down completely. Leave the strainer in the cream to keep extracting the saffron color and flavor. When custard is cool, press saffron again to extract the last of the color and flavor, remove strainer, and churn custard in an ice cream machine 25–30 minutes. Freeze until ready to serve.

The New Cult Cabs (And Other Napa Gems We’re Splurging On)

Get in on the ground floor of collectible wines with these bottlings from exceptional, lesser-known wineries.

When it comes to cult Cabernet Sauvignon and other high-end juice from Napa Valley, “bargain” is a relative term—with bottlings from Screaming Eagle and Sine Qua Non topping $1,000. Fortunately for anyone looking for a cellar-worthy, special-occasion-ready bottle, a handful of wineries in the region are making exceptional Cabernet and other varietals sourced from stellar vineyards at a fraction of the price of the better-known brands. While the prices by no means take them into daily drinker territory, these wines are exquisite enough for cellaring. Be sure to sign up for their mailing lists to be one of the first to know when the bottles drop.

BELLA OAKS

Preservationist Suzanne Deal Booth in 2010 reinvigorated the vineyard where the Heitz Cellar Bella Oaks wines of the ’70s and ’80s were grown. To do so, she tapped David Abreu, Michel Rolland, and Aussie cult-Cab winemaker Nigel Kinsman. They only make one wine, so get on the list for the 2019 releases this fall.

Bottle to Buy:

2019 Bella Oaks Proprietary Red, Napa Valley. $275; bellaoaks.com

STALWORTH

Second-generation vintners Tim and Sabrina Persson overcame several cellar-destroying natural disasters to produce Stalworth. It’s made by winemaker Celia Welch, whose name has become synonymous over the last 30 years with some of the most acclaimed wines in Napa Valley, including Staglin and Scarecrow.

Bottle to Buy:

2019 Stalworth Cabernet Sauvignon. $250; stalworthwine.com

PAS DE CHEVAL

Napa winemaker Maayan Koschitzky (whose day job is crafting cult Cabs at Atelier Melka) and Master of Wine Vanessa Conlin (who selects wines for the Sunset Wine Club!) teamed up to produce three expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon. Get on the list to experience their 2019 debut vintages. Bottle to Buy: 2019 Pas de Cheval Cabernet Sauvignon Intermezzo St. Helena. $250; pasdecheval.wine

IMPENSATA

Another new brand by Kinsman that debuted in 2022 is Impensata. Merlot is the star, and this is the only Merlot produced from the legendary Ecotone Vineyard (formerly Abreu’s Thorevilos Vineyard), located just below Howell Mountain.

Bottle to Buy: 2018 Impensata Merlot, Napa Valley. $325; impensata.com

VICE VERSA

Made by highly regarded, Bordeaux-born, Napabased winemaker Philippe Melka, this opulent and elegant Cabernet Sauvignon is made from a blend of grapes from hillside vineyards in Calistoga and St. Helena. Bottle to Buy: 2019 Vice Versa Mysterons Cabernet Sauvignon. $250; viceversawine.com

Top Tasting Rooms

THREE NEW AND NOTABLE NAPA TASTING ROOMS LEVEL UP THE OPTIONS FOR TOP-SHELF VINOUS EXPERIENCES IN THE VALLEY.

Clif Family Winery’s sleek private Enoteca offers small groups an array of food and wine pairing menus, all served with views of the Mayacamas Mountains. Make reservations in advance at cliffamily.com

The Salon at Heitz Cellar is located at the pioneering winery’s original St. Helena property and offers tasting flights, ample indoor and outdoor seating, and a side of history for guests looking for the long view on the valley. Make reservations in advance at heitzcellar.com

For loungey, kick-back vibes and organic and biodynamically farmed wines plus small bites, visit Brendel’s modernist tasting room (pictured at left) in downtown Napa. brendelwines.com

West Essentials

{ OUR PICKS FOR WHAT’S ESSENTIAL IN THE WEST }

A Coastal Getaway in L.A.

For an authentic seaside vacation close to nature and the city, Marina del Rey delivers with its calm harbor, coastal views and paradise vibes. Plan your next escape to L.A.'s Marina. visitmdr.com

Tempe – A Relaxing Getaway

Plan an escape to Tempe for a little FunShine. Paddleboard on Tempe Town Lake, dine at a local eatery and relax poolside under our sunny skies. Treat yourself to a relaxing getaway to Tempe. VisitTempe.com

Live Glass Full in Temecula Valley

Temecula Valley is Southern California's wine country: Just an hour's drive from San Diego, Orange County and Palm Springs, Temecula is conveniently close yet feels blissfully worlds away.

VisitTemeculaValley.com

Yellowstone is more than a park. In Montana, it’s a whole country. Yellowstone is an entire ecosystem, and it doesn’t stop at the park boundary. Venture farther into Montana, and you’ll find many of the things you were looking for. visityellowstonecountry.com

Central Coast California

It's about time. Time to ditch your feed and take a memorable road trip along Highways 1 and 101. If you take the time, your Central Coast road trip will give you all the time you need - and it's worth every second.

TheOriginalRoadTrip.com

Sweet Serenity

Bring calm morning noon or night with Clover Sonoma Moon Milk, a delicious new blend of organic milk, herbs and spices to promote well-being and relaxation. Sip and enjoy all three nourishing flavors, or add a soothing splash to coffee, tea, smoothies and cereal. CloverTheMoon.com

TRAVEL & ESCAPES

Your Next Great Getaway

100 ways to experience the West.

Consider this your “Go Now” Guide. With travel back in full swing, there’s plenty to discover—and not just the next great road trip, emerging foodie destination, or newly redesigned hotel. Exploration in the West is changing. People don’t want to just be tourists passing through; they want to immerse themselves in local culture and support community-run businesses. They’re seeking connection with strangers and their neighbors, whether around a table or on the trail. So, here’s to your next epic excursion. We’ve got plenty of ideas for making the most of your trip, even if it’s right next door.

Trending Now

1. Coastal Gems

We predict a return to the beach as all-inclusive getaways grow in popularity.

2. Wine Country Winners

Viticultural exploration re-emerges after years of challenges.

3. The New Food Pilgrimage

Experiential dining spaces and overthe-top tasting menus have become the norm.

4. Stress-Free Staycation

Rest and rejuvenation could be right in your own backyard.

5. A Sense of Place and Purpose

Don’t just be a tourist. Support the local community.

6. Epic Outdoor Getaways

Travelers continue to escape to the great outdoors.

Coastal Gems

The salty sea air and rugged cliffs of the coast are calling. With many travelers looking to book relaxing vacations at places they never have to leave, we predict a massive return to beachfront escapes. Here are some of our favorite coastal hot spots.

Cool Coastal Getaways

DREAM INN SANTA CRUZ

Throw it back to the ’60s at a surf-chic hotel near the Santa Cruz boardwalk, where you can rent complimentary beach cruisers. The whole family is

invited for drinks at the onsite beach shack—and to take part in culinary competition. dreaminnsantacruz.com

INN AT MOONLIGHT BEACH

This Encinitas getaway is WELL-certified, meaning it was built according to standards aimed at improving your well-being through lighting, air quality, and more. Visit the biodynamic urban farm or indulge in a moonlight massage. innatmoonlightbeach.com

THE LODGE AT BODEGA BAY

Just in time for its 50th anniversary, this rebranded escape offers the best of the Sonoma Coast: award-winning seafood, a hand-picked wine list, ocean-inspired spa treatments, and a rugged coastline teeming with wildlife. lodgeatbodegabay.com

SCP DEPOE BAY

The Oregon coast is at your fingertips with a stay in one of these rooms, which are imbued with Scandinavianbohemian vibes, sound machines, essential oils, teas, and more. scphotel.com/depoe-bay

TIMBER COVE RESORT

Redwoods and the ocean converge on this 25-acre, pet-friendly historic getaway in Jenner, where you can sip fireside drinks in the great room while local artists play jazz, blues, and folk music. timbercoveresort.com

Stunning Seaside Renovations

CANNERY PIER HOTEL & SPA

Jutting out hundreds of feet on the Columbia River at the site of a former fisherman’s cooperative, this Astoria hotel recently underwent a multi-million-dollar renovation that brings local art and history to the forefront. cannerypierhotel.com

HOTEL JUNE MALIBU

Now open to guests after years of meticulous transformation, a Malibu midcentury modern getaway—where Bob Dylan wrote Blood on the Tracks boasts stunning bungalows and a heated pool. thehoteljune.com/malibu

THE SEA RANCH LODGE

A trio of refined dining concepts is only part of the allure at the reimagined Sonoma County property where you can mosey through a solarium—and all the way down to a meadow that kisses the ocean.

thesearanchlodge.com

to Go

Beautiful Beach City

HUNTINGTON BEACH, CALIFORNIA

With a name like Surf City, it’s easy to see why this California town beckons families and surfers alike. We’re celebrating recent efforts to make the beach more accessible for all. Visitors with disabilities, stroller-toting parents, and others can make their way down a pair of mats that serve as a stable pathway across the sand. surfcityusa.com

Rad Mexico Resorts

PLAYA VIVA

You may have seen these iconic treehouses perched between the coast and Sierra Madre Mountains. But there’s more to be explored at the regenerative resort. Take part in beachside yoga or ride a 4x4 up to a neighboring farm. playaviva.com

WALDORF ASTORIA

LOS CABOS PEDREGAL

New at this Baja resort is the Agave Study at Peacock Alley, a tasting experience of hand-picked Oaxacan spirits ranging from tequila to mezcal. There’s also a nine-course taco concept where you can eat your way through Mexico’s culinary regions. waldorfastorialoscabospedregal.com

HILTON LOS CABOS

BEACH & GOLF RESORT

Plunge-pool suites with views of the Sea of Cortez. A rum bar with cliffside bungalows. A kids’ splash zone. These are only some of the amenities at the resort within a two-hour flight from the West Coast. hiltonloscabos.com

CONRAD PUNTA DE MITA

Head to Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit for a casita-style stay in a suite with a plunge pool, soaking tub, and outdoor shower. A new open-air restaurant offers locally sourced fare for dinner. conradpuntademita.com

VILLA LA VALENCIA

BEACH RESORT & SPA

Billed as the home of the region’s longest lazy river, this new all-inclusive resort features four Spanish and Mexican restaurants, five bars, an infinity pool, and suites with up to four bedrooms. villalavalencia.com

Where to Stay

Classic Coastal Charm

NICK’S COVE AND COTTAGES

An iconic Tomales Bay hot spot recently got a refresh for the first time in 15 years. The cottages sport new furnishings and wallpaper, and the restaurant has an upgraded back bar. It’s Northern California coastal cooking at its best: lots of seafood, salads, Asian and Mexican influences, and a heavy dose of Alice Waters–style produce-first deliciousness. nickscove.com

Wine Country Winners

It’s no easy feat making wine in the West. And yet the region’s growers and producers continue on the path of mindful cultivation, releasing innovative bottles in the face of a historic pandemic, wildfires, and drought. We’re ready for a viticulture renaissance. Here’s where you’ll find us amid the vines.

Wine Country Escapes

THE ESTATE YOUNTVILLE

STAY

Expect exciting changes at the longtime Napa village, including a refreshed spa and new restaurant. A slate of luxury accommodations abounds, including a California modern farmhouse and contemporary hotel, plus a private villa. theestateyountville.com

THE FINCH HOTEL

You’ll find a rotating cast of Walla Walla food trucks at this Streamline Moderne–inspired spot that brings together PNW artists for contemporary decor. finchwallawalla.com

GRANADA HOTEL & BISTRO

Thanks to a $5 million renovation, modern luxuries flourish while old soul remains in the exposed brick that wraps around this San Luis Obispo boutique hotel, which is home to a rooftop lounge.

granadahotelandbistro.com

THE INN AT ABEJA

You’ll find a quintessential Walla Walla wine country experience at this estate vineyard and farmstead where a fivebedroom farmhouse offers the ultimate group retreat. Coming soon: The inn’s kitchen will open for dinner. abeja.net

HOTEL YNEZ

There are lots of new reasons to love the standout Solvang retreat, including an onsite spa and rustic Airstream accommodations. It’s all part of the fringed-hammock and cozy outdoor fire-pit vibes. hotelynez.com

MACARTHUR PLACE HOTEL & SPA

More than 100 unique pieces comprise the art collection at this Sonoma getaway, with fireplaces in guest rooms, a mid-century pool, two apiaries, and a chef’s garden that supplies farm-fresh ingredients to the bar and restaurant. macarthurplace.com

THE MADRONA

A historic 1880s Healdsburg residence recently got a facelift, featuring a mix of classic furniture from the original family and romantic touches as well as a Michelin-starred chef and an onsite garden. themadronahotel.com

NORTH BLOCK YOUNTVILLE

You can now enjoy brunch at the restaurant that’s part of this 20-room hotel in Napa Valley. The rooms are situated around a courtyard and feature patios or balconies for relaxing views while you’re sipping a glass of wine. northblockhotel.com

Where

Outstanding Bakery

BOB’S WELL BREAD BAKERY

It doesn’t get any better than a brisket sandwich special on the patio of the beloved Los Alamos outpost. Pastries and loaves are baked fresh daily. bobswellbread.com

Wine Country Classics

THE HITCHING POST 2 RESTAURANT & TASTING ROOM

Did you really go to the Santa Ynez Valley if you didn’t eat tri-tip at the Hitching Post? The legendary steakhouse recently installed a big top for outdoor dining, elevating the open-air vibes while you enjoy a rib chop from the wood-fired grill. hitchingpost2.com

LA PALOMA CAFE

One of Santa Barbara’s most beloved restaurants recently reopened under new management, but the good eats stayed the same: Weekend brunch features seasonal selections on a gorgeous outdoor patio in the Presidio. lapalomasb.com

World-Class Wine Region

SANTA YNEZ VALLEY

Let us name the reasons we keep returning to this fertile California valley: more than 100 wineries, an array of family farms, notable hotel openings, and a renovated open-air theater, among others. If you’re looking for rolling vineyards, this is the place to be. visitsyv.com

Top Wine Tasting Experiences

STOLLER FAMILY ESTATE

Sample rarely available wines and seasonal small plates at a new hilltop tasting experience from this family-run Oregon winery with three guest homes and a contemporary tasting room. stollerfamilyestate.com

LANG & REED NAPA VALLEY

Enter a century-old Victorian-style home in St. Helena to sip Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc from a family that’s been crafting California vino for nearly three decades. langandreed.com

ROBLAR WINERY

There may be no better pairing than bubbles and fried chicken, and you can sample them here for lunch beneath an outdoor pergola on the Santa Barbara estate dotted with oak trees. roblarwinery.com

L’ECOLE NO. 41

Three generations of a Walla Walla family have farmed these vineyards. Take your pick from a tasting in their historic 1915 schoolhouse, a downtown wine bar, or a new tasting room in “Wine Walk Row.” lecole.com

AMATERRA WINERY

If you thought you couldn’t go wine tasting in Portland, think again. Sip some Pinot Noir or Chardonnay at a gravity-flow winery that offers a taste of the Willamette Valley just minutes from downtown. amaterrawines.com

The New Food Pilgrimage

Experiential dining spaces and over-thetop tasting menus are en vogue. We don’t just want to share food with our friends; we want to commune with strangers amid a dining experience that ignites all of our senses. Here are some favorites.

Standout WineAnd-Dine Region

WALLA WALLA, WASHINGTON

No longer the new kid on the block, Washington’s fertile southeastern region is teeming with new restaurants and food trucks, a burgeoning arts scene, and more than 100 wineries that appeal to all types of palates. wallawalla.org

Dinner and a Show

GRANDMASTER RECORDERS

A former recording studio is brimming with new life as a rooftop bar and restaurant that serves up Italian- and Australian-inspired fare, plus latenight deejays. grandmasterrecorders.com

RED SALT AT KO’A KEA HOTEL & RESORT

Sidle up to Kauai’s Po’ipu Beach for a Hawaiian meal of sashimi, nigiri, and sake with romantic coastline views to match. koakea.com/red-salt

SALISH LODGE & SPA

You’ll have a front-row seat to the cascading waters of Snoqualmie Falls at this Washington property with an award-winning restaurant. A newly added cocktail lounge and hot tub both feature epic overlooks. salishlodge.com

SERẼA

Hotel del Coronado is known for its iconic views of San Diego, and its restaurant is no exception. Fresh-catch coastal cuisine is the name of the game, alongside handcrafted cocktails and local beers. sereasandiego.com

Transcendent Tasting Menus

NISEI RESTAURANT

San Francisco chef David Yoshimura’s new twist on Japanese cuisine stars in dishes such as dorayaki with banana, crème fraîche, and white sturgeon caviar, with wine pairings. restaurantnisei.com

RAINBIRD

New in Merced, the restaurant’s fivecourse experimental menus feature veggie-focused bites like white onion macaron and thyme-basted halibut. rainbirdrestaurant.com

MANRESA

Three Michelin stars signify the culinary innovation of chef David Kinch’s Los Gatos restaurant, which is celebrating its 20th year creating whimsical plates in partnership with local purveyors. manresarestaurant.com

Brilliant Brasserie

CHEZ MAGGY

Michelin-starred chef Ludo Lefebvre takes on Denver at a hip, new French restaurant with staples like steak tartare, duck à l’orange, and bison bourguignon. chezmaggydenver.com

Drinks With a View

FROLIK KITCHEN + COCKTAILS

Yes, there is a synthetic curling rink installed at this Seattle rooftop. Yes, it plays host to drag queen trivia and karaoke nights. Yes, the cocktails are innovative with a PNW twist. destinationhotels.com/frolik-seattle

LIDO HOUSE, AN AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION

See Newport Beach from a new vantage point at Topside rooftop bar, which serves up the hotel’s own Champagne blend plus craft cocktails and light bites. lidohousehotel.com

THE ROOFTOP AT THE WAYFARER DOWNTOWN LA

Head up to the 12th floor of a DTLA skyscraper to find this hidden oasis serving up a 10-course brunch, boozy coffee slushies, and more. wayfarerdtla. com/downtown-la-dining/rooftop

TREEHOUSE LOUNGE AT PASEA HOTEL & SPA

The allure of a hanging-lantern bar sculpture is only matched by the ocean views, as this lounge plays host to a plant-based menu and small snacks for your pet! meritagecollection.com/pasea-hotel/dining/ treehouse-lounge

Stress-Free Staycation

Your next great getaway could be right in your backyard. Fueled by an increase in local exploration, more people are finding rest and rejuvenation close to home, whether that’s a nearby metropolis or a wellness resort. Luckily, the West plays host to myriad hospitality groups constantly creating innovative spaces to discover throughout the region.

Superlative Spa Retreats

ALILA VENTANA BIG SUR

STAY

Japanese baths invite weary travelers to their warm waters on a secluded property amid the redwoods of coastal California, where a slate of evolving onsite experiences is targeted at your well-being, from private watercolor painting to tai chi. ventanabigsur.com

CASTLE HOT SPRINGS

The quintessential Arizona oasis features three hot springs with all-day access at a secluded property dotted with a pool, lush experimental garden, and farm-fresh restaurant. castlehotsprings.com

CIVANA WELLNESS RESORT & SPA

Just outside Scottsdale lies a worldclass spa with more than 70 weekly classes to better your physical, mental, and spiritual growth in the middle of the Sonoran Desert. civanacarefree.com

FOUR MOONS SPA

Private bungalows are nestled around a koi pond at this serene Encinitas oasis with a hammam, Balinese bale, and new outdoor soaking space for water rituals. fourmoonsspa.com

NOBU RYOKAN MALIBU

The ultimate luxury spa getaway places you in a limestone-walled suite facing either the ocean, beach, or garden with your own teak tub, fireplace, and shoji-style closet. Head out for activities like stand-up paddleboarding or yoga. malibu.nobuhotels.com

Most Inspiring Hotel

HOTEL FIGUEROA

This downtown Los Angeles hotel’s history in the women’s movement remains apparent, with a revolving art series featuring female artists and a custom suite outfitted with eye masks, candles, and more from womenowned businesses. hotelfigueroa.com

Great Hotel Groups

ACME HOSPITALITY

The Santa Barbara–based hoteliers behind a wide range of California food, beverage, and hospitality concepts impress with two of their latest restorations: The National Exchange Hotel in Nevada City (thenationalexchangehotel.com) and the Holbrooke Hotel in Grass Valley (holbrooke.com). Both historic properties have been meticulously updated in a way that at once honors their past and propels them into the future, with innovative onsite programming that has us raising a glass. acmehospitality.com

AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION

No matter where you are in the West, odds are there’s an Autograph Collection hotel within reach, offering sumptuous amenities in world-class

locations. We’re partial to The Cloudveil as a base camp for exploring Jackson Hole (thecloudveil.com), while The Lodge at Sonoma features charming cottages in California wine country (thelodgeatsonoma.com). Haciendastyle accommodations amid historic architecture await at the Inn at the Mission San Juan Capistrano (innatthemissionsjc.com).

PENDRY

There’s just something about the forward-thinking luxury imbued in each and every Pendry property, from the art-clad Pendry West Hollywood ( pendry.com/west-hollywood) to modern alpine vibes at ski-in/ski-out Pendry Park City ( pendry.com/parkcity). Don’t forget about Pendry San Diego ( pendry.com/san-diego) in the Gaslamp Quarter, where a nighttime social club and complimentary Cadillacs await. pendry.com

Where to Stay

Architectural Gem

LINE HOTEL SAN FRANCISCO

A hotel, private residences, four dining experiences, a nonprofit theater space, and a rooftop solarium all converge in this expansive project designed by Bjarke Ingels Group and Handel Architects, slated to open this year. thelinehotel.com/sf

Travelers want to be intentional about where they spend money and who’s guiding them on the journey. Whether taking in a piece of history or getting tips from a bona fide local outfitter, we’ve got ideas.

5 A Sense of Place and Purpose

Top Tour Guides

HERITAGE INSPIRATIONS

Wherever you want to bike, hike, glamp, or stay overnight, the guided experiences crafted by this Taos company immerse you in the history and beauty of New Mexico. heritageinspirations.com

INQUISITOUR’S COMPLETE PACIFIC NORTHWEST EXPERIENCE

Let the locals introduce you to OG makers on custom trips that also give back; a portion of proceeds go toward climate initiatives or to help feed the communities you visit. inquisitours.com

ROUTES BICYCLE TOURS & RENTALS

Consummate Classics

AUBERGE DU SOLEIL

Adults go to play at this immaculate California wine country retreat sited in a 33-acre grove of olive and oak trees overlooking the Mayacamas. It’s home to tennis courts and a Michelin-starred restaurant.

aubergeresorts.com/aubergedusoleil

THE BROADMOOR

You can still horseback ride at this former 1800s casino turned luxury resort on a sweeping Colorado Springs property that offers 17 restaurants, two championship golf courses, plus adventure experiences like a zip line and fly-fishing camp. broadmoor.com

HOTEL VALLEY HO

See Albuquerque and Santa Fe by two wheels thanks to the wide range of rentals and customized maps from this company, which just added electric bikes to the fleet. routesrentals.com STAY

The retro Scottsdale resort, beloved by the likes of Bing Crosby and Zsa Zsa Gabor, brings together mid-mod design and a chic pool scene. hotelvalleyho.com

MISSION PACIFIC HOTEL

While the California hotel is fairly new, its restored Top Gun House is not. A featured home in the film classic, the structure is now home to the High Pie, a hand-pie bar with desserts that are fried to order. missionpacifichotel.com

THE LITTLE NELL

Ski in and ski out at Aspen’s longtime resort, which recently received its first major update since opening: Spanish sculptor and designer Luis Bustamante reimagined its 4,000-square-foot members-only mountain club. thelittlenell.com

Matchless Markets

THE BARLOW

Sonoma County’s open-air market fills four blocks with dog-friendly glass studios, olive oil tastings, a concert series, and an annual beer run. thebarlow.net

STATE STREET MARKET

Step into this Los Altos food hall for global cuisine at its best. There’s Californian-Indian comfort food, Taiwanese-Korean dishes, a raw bar, and more. statestreetmarket.com

Sublime Arts Center

PATRICIA RESER CENTER FOR THE ARTS

A creekside 550-seat theater recently opened to bring regional arts organizations, international performers, and educational exhibitions to Beaverton. thereser.org

Where to Go

Standout Southwest Culture Trip

SANTA FE

You won’t find pueblo and adobe architecture anywhere like this in the U.S., not to mention the city’s unique topography that lends itself to stargazing, hiking, hot spring dips, and much more. santafe.org

Mighty Motels

EGYPTIAN MOTOR HOTEL

Make a pit stop at a brand-new Phoenix inn that’s been thoughtfully restored, all the way down to the original turf and old-school amenities like retro refrigerators and Magic 8 Balls. egyptianmotorhotel.com

SKYVIEW LOS ALAMOS

Pull off Highway 101 and into a 1950s hillside motel that still has the original pool, a working vineyard, and fleet of Linus bikes to explore the Santa Ynez Valley. skyviewlosalamos.com

Epic Outdoor Getaways

More people than ever are venturing out into Mother Nature—and they’re showing no signs of slowing down. Whether you’re hitting the open road, hiking solo, or camping with a group, here’s how to live your best outdoor life this year.

Off-Grid Luxury

AUTOCAMP JOSHUA TREE

A meandering dirt path takes you through an intimate Airstream experience anchored by a mid-century modern clubhouse that blends warm interiors with the vast outdoor expanse of this 25-acre desert getaway. autocamp.com/joshua-tree

DUNTON RIVER CAMP

A southwest Colorado property just steps from the Dolores River, the camp offers spacious, luxe tents, plus a new bar and lodge where you can cozy up by the fire or play a game of pool. duntondestinations.com/river-camp

UNDER CANVAS BRYCE CANYON

The tenth location of a brand known for its canvas-style tent properties, the latest solar-powered camp is located in the mountains of southern Utah near the iconic red-rock hoodoos of Bryce Canyon National Park. undercanvas.com/camps/bryce-canyon

Alaskan Jewels

SHELDON CHALET

Perched on some of the tallest mountains in North America, this eco-conscious chalet is the ultimate backcountry lodge. Strap on a harness and explore ice crevasses and caverns in the nearby glacier. sheldonchalet.com

TORDRILLO MOUNTAIN

A separate flight to this remote luxury retreat is only half the adventure: Once you’re settled in your cabin on the Talachulitna River, a private helicopter can shuttle you to an epic via ferrata. tordrillomountainlodge.com

TUTKA BAY LODGE

Kachemak Bay State Park is a stone’s throw away, thanks to this hotel’s private location in a nearby cove. Kayak near whales and puffins, explore the tidepools, or raise a glass in the oldgrowth forest bar. withinthewild.com

Beautiful Base Camps

OASIS CABIN RESORT

This campground in central Oregon’s River Country boasts 12 cabins, two vintage trailers, and a classic diner that serves as an homage to the property’s former life as one of the state’s oldest fishing camps. oasiscabinresort.com

SCP REDMOND

If rock climbing is your jam, then nearby Smith Rock State Park (and the rapidly growing city of Redmond) should pique your interest, as will the hotel’s new plant-forward restaurant and tavern-style lobby bar. scphotel.com/redmond

WYLDER HOPE VALLEY

Yurts, cabins, and a Spartan trailer dot the Carson River at this Nordicinspired camp where you’ll find flyfishing lessons in warmer months and snowshoe tours in winter.

wylderhotels.com/hope-valley

Transporting Tables

TAKIBI

EAT & DRINK

This Portland restaurant combines all of our favorite things: camping, food, and cocktails. Located at Japanese outdoor brand Snow Peak’s headquarters, the space is at the forefront of the glamping restaurant trend. takibipdx.com

THE SOCIAL HAUS

Head to the remote Montana wilderness to discover a surprising ninecourse tasting menu where your amuse bouche might just be foiegras-infused ice cream. Expect different dishes daily and ingredients foraged from the woods. thegreeno.com

RED DOG SALOON

Smack dab in the middle of the California desert’s Pioneertown, the saloon serves up Western nostalgia and craft cocktails that are a big step up from a shot and a beer. Order a barrel-aged Negroni after exploring nearby Joshua Tree National Park, then rest your head at the neighboring Pioneertown Motel. pioneertown-motel.com

Amazing Outdoor Activities

ROLL OR STROLL THE OLYMPIC DISCOVERY TRAIL

Stretching from Washington’s Port Townsend to Port Angeles, this 135-mile route winds its way through the Olympic Peninsula’s forests and boatyards, farmers’ markets and waterfronts, for an epic excursion by foot or by bike. olympicdiscoverytrail.org

SEQUOIA RIVERLANDS TRUST

Volunteer with the Central California nonprofit, which is dedicated to preserving land in the San Joaquin Valley and southern Sierra Nevada, by working in a plant nursery or maintaining oak forest trails, among other activities. sequoiariverlands.org

REI GRAND CANYON & LAKE

POWELL FAMILY ADVENTURE

All ages can enjoy this jam-packed six-day itinerary that takes you hiking in the Grand Canyon, camping under the stars, riding a historic train, and more. All told, you can check three national parks and monuments off your bucket list. rei.com/adventures

IMPERIAL RIVER CO.

See Oregon’s Deschutes River like never before at a hotel offering half- and full-day whitewater rafting trips as well as overnight accommodations right on the banks. This part of central Oregon is perfect for beginners and experienced adventurers alike. deschutesriver.com

TUMALO CREEK KAYAK & CANOE

A 20-year veteran of Bend water adventures boasts lessons and private group training, programs for both kids and adults, and daily to weekly gear rentals. Get outfitted for trips to the Cascades and nearby whitewater rivers. tumalocreek.com

Rad Ranches

BRASADA RANCH

Sagebrush dots this 2,000-acre central Oregon property where you’ll find sunset horseback rides, house-made s’mores, golf, and family-friendly cabins in view of the Cascades. brasada.com

THE LODGE & SPA AT BRUSH CREEK RANCH

Nestled in Wyoming’s North Platte River Valley, a 30,000-acre cattle ranch beckons with all-inclusive amenities including a private ski area and a fully renovated spa that now features a yoga studio and dedicated couple’s treatment room. brushcreekranch.com

OCEANPOINT RANCH

Moonstone Beach serves as a picturesque backdrop for this seaside Cambria hotel with just-right Western vibes and a private beach trail. oceanpointranch.com

Terrific Transit

SEQUOIA SHUTTLE

Avoid parking headaches at Sequoia National Park with an eco-friendly shuttle that departs from most Visalia hotels. Even if you’re headed to the backcountry, the shuttle offers a oneway ride to spots including the Pacific Crest Trail. sequoiashuttle.com

Where to Go

Remarkable Outdoor Recreation Region

WYOMING’S WIND RIVER COUNTRY

The red desert and Wind River Mountain Range play host to an array of opportunities in the great outdoors, from rodeos to road trips through Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks, plus a new public access point on the Popo Agie River. windriver.org

Heart of the Rogue Medford,Valley:Oregon

A perfect getaway to Medford, Oregon, where wine, nature, and culinary delights abound

In fall, Oregon beckons travelers with promises of rich hues of red, orange, and gold that signal the arrival of crisp air. It’s the perfect time to visit its diverse landscape of evergreen forests, dramatic coastline, and high desert. It’s also home to Medford, the beating heart of Southern Oregon’s Rogue River Valley, where I spent several days immersed in its undulating vineyards, ambling along the bustling Rogue River, and exploring its geological marvels. “A 10-minute drive almost always means a 10-minute drive,” my Uber driver told me, noting the easy-tonavigate traffic en route to the sparkling new Compass Hotel by Margaritaville that would serve as my base of operations. This held true for the duration of my stay, whether on a short jaunt to a local watering hole or

an 85-mile trek to the wondrous Crater Lake National Park. Between its international airport and tranquil drivability, Medford is remarkably accessible from anywhere in the West or beyond. Herewith, the ultimate itinerary for exploring this world-class wonderland of nature, culinary excellence—and some of the best wine in the West.

the Rogue Valley due to the region’s conducive climate. The onsite restaurant features artisanal pizzas and flatbreads, formaggio boards, and Cindy’s own recipe of mushrooms stuffed with spicy Italian sausage, chardonnay cream sauce, parmesan, and balsamic syrup. Like each of these three vineyards, the Rogue Valley’s vino culture touts a remarkably diverse scene that, through every geological influence, stands tall in character and quality.

elevated island-in-the-sky surfaces, to Mill Creek and Barr Creek Falls, the 173-foot and 242-foot gushers, respectively, that emerge from a sea of evergreens, outdoor adventure is everywhere.

Wine Time

Fall is harvest season in Medford, and one of the most exciting times to visit the region. Home to the Rogue Valley American Viticultural Area, wineries benefit from predominantly volcanic soils found in only one other place in the world: southern France’s Rhône River region. Kriselle Cellars was the first winery on my vino-centric itinerary. The pride and joy of Scott Steingraber is nestled on a south-facing slope between the Rogue River and the Upper Table Rock Plateau. The land, a sun-drenched, plot brimming with round river rock and silts, produces a grape rich in depth, character, and terroir. Here, visitors can sample Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, and other varietals from an elevated main hall that yields stunning views of the riverbed below. I continued my Medford vinous safari at 2Hawk Vineyard and Winery, where estate wines are complemented by inspiring views from 2Hawk’s rustic tasting room or from one of the property’s cozy fire pits. Boasting a lifetime of farming expertise, the 2Hawk crew employs sustainable agricultural practices and real-time conditions monitoring to fine-tune flavor and achieve unique combinations of flavor and personality. Dan and Cindy Marca’s ethereal winery Dancin is enveloped by cedar, oak, and pine that thrives on the region’s topographical diversity and cooler climates. Varietals such as chardonnay and pinot noir are staples here, the latter of which is harvested at more than a 3-to-1 ratio in

Natural Selections

For travelers seeking an adventure pairing to wine country, the Medford region is awash in recreation. Fly fishing thrives on the Rogue River, but for adrenaline-seekers, whitewater rafting and high-speed options, courtesy of Rogue Jet Boat Adventures, hurl and spin passengers through stretches of scintillating river flanked by overhanging trees, historic and celebrity homes, plus the occasional osprey nest. No visit to the Rogue Valley would be complete, however, without admiring its expanse from overhead. Rogue Valley ZipLine Adventures and its team of certified guides usher guests through a five-zipline course that meanders through towering tree canopies and unveils awe-inspiring views of the valley below. If keeping feet firmly planted on solid Earth is preferable, the region offers hiking opportunities galore. From Crater Lake and the local Table Rock Mountains, which over millennia have developed unique ecosystems atop their

Culinary Cred

With the Rogue Valley culinary scene ready to deliver, I found my bliss in a three-stop tour of some of the finest spots. Ninetyyear-old Rogue Creamery is a must for any out-of-towner, boasting a dizzying roundup of artisanal cheeses and jams that can be found in restaurants all over the world— thanks in part to its status as grand champion of the 2019-20 World Cheese Awards in Italy, the only U.S. creamery to ever earn the award. Go next door to Coquette Bakery for rustic loaves and refined pastries to complement your cheese. Then venture to Forage Coffee Co. for some of Medford’s finest brew in a space abundantly decorated with fiddle leaf figs and other trending plants you can buy. No matter the pitstop category penciled in on my own itinerary, there was a welcoming spirit among Medford’s residents. It may have been my first time exploring the city’s world-class vineyards, eateries, and outdoor attractions, but by the end of my short trip I came to understand that it is Medford’s sense of community that comprises the heart of its identity. And as they did with me, its locals are eager to share it with you. —J.D.

The hike-climb hybrid known as the via ferrata is soaring in popularity. Systems of iron rungs for grip, and cables to clip in, squire visitors along vertical rock, up and down ladders, and across harrowing suspension bridges that offer no shortage of awe-inspiring views. And since many are guide-operated, equipment is usually included as part of a tour package.

Better yet, many via ferratas often require little or no experience, with visitors of all ages and athletic abilities able to enjoy the same sights traditionally afforded to the rarest of athletic communities. Interested in giving one a go? We threw together a handful of our favorites to make choosing one a bit easier.

On Time

OUR FAVORITE WATCHES GET THE JOB DONE FOR ALL TYPES OF WESTERN EXPLORERS.

To New Heights

Via ferrata, anyone? These adventures require little or no experience and provide views traditionally reserved for worldclass rock climbers.

TORDRILLO MOUNTAIN LODGE, ALASKA

Alaska’s very first via ferrata is a 1,200foot cable network featuring two suspension bridges and 900 feet of elevation gain. Be prepared for adventure before this adventure—guests can only get to the lodge on a float plane. From there, it’s a 10-minute helicopter ride to the via ferrata.

MOUNT NIMBUS, BRITISH COLUMBIA

No North American via ferrata list would be complete without the

THE SUN SEEKER

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continent’s longest and highest entry. When climbers aren’t traversing rock faces more than 3,000 feet off the ground, they’re tackling suspension bridges over 2,000-foot drops that are sure to reorganize your inner constitution. Designed for the novice, the courses at Mount Nimbus require no experience. Some athleticism is recommended, however.

ESTES PARK, COLORADO

Rocky Mountain National Park is incredibly popular for a good reason.

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Why not add one more exhilarating activity to your visit, courtesy of the Kent Mountain Adventure Center, in the neighboring town of Estes Park? Guides will take you up the 600-foot Peregrine Arete, considered one of the nation’s more thrilling climbs, using the wall’s rock, steel rungs, and ladders. At the top, you’ll take in the otherworldly sights of the park from one of the area’s best vantage points.

CAÑON CITY, COLORADO

Four different via ferrata routes ranging in difficulty await visitors of this town just south of Colorado Springs. Climbers will enjoy views of towering canyon walls—Royal Gorge plunges to 1,250 feet at its deepest point—and the surrounding mountains. If that doesn’t do it for you, maybe the fact that the Royal Gorge suspension bridge has earned the title of the nation’s highest will.

TELLURIDE, COLORADO

This route is a mile-and-a-half journey that touts views of stunning peaks, the mountain town below, a thrilling box canyon, and the 400-foot Bridal Veil Falls—the longest in the state. This route also offers the rare opportunity to go without a guide, though paying for a little extra expertise never hurts.

OGDEN, UTAH

One of the more challenging via ferrata courses in North America is this mountainous haven in northern Utah. Three different routes are available, some offering more technical climbing than the others, but don’t let that scare you—inexperienced visitors are still welcome. Climbers complete 400 feet of elevation gain to arrive at the aptly named Waterfall Canyon, where guests will have their hard work rewarded with a waterfall view only those at the top get to enjoy.

JACKSON, WYOMING

What better way to look out at the Grand Teton range than from the network of via ferratas run by the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort? The Bridger Gondola drops guests at the top of the Tetons, where a short stroll ushers those interested toward climbs appealing to various skill levels that yield incredible views from heights only the most daring would attempt on skis.

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November 3-6, 2022

www.TasteSYV.com

Our annual four-day celebration of food, wine, and more returns this November across the towns of Solvang, Santa Ynez, Los Alamos, Los Olivos, Ballard, and Buellton. Come experience curated wine tastings, chef-driven long table dinners, lunches, and activities, all celebrating the incredible offerings of this California wine country destination.

This month: Driggs, Idaho

The insider: Lea Beckett, co-founder of Grand Teton Distillery

Insider

Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts.

NORTHWEST

Gluten-free Idaho potato vodka: That’s what you’ll get when you pick up a bottle from Grand Teton Distillery. Of course, you could also visit for a tour and free tasting of these award-winning spirits. Which is exactly why we reached out to co-founder Lea Beckett to learn about the team’s home base of Driggs, and must-visit spots in the region.

EAT:

Head to Warbirds Cafe for dinner and check out “all of their classic planes in their aircraft museum— they even have a MiG,” Beckett says. When actor Channing Tatum, who's partnered with the distillery, visited Teton Valley, "we hosted him and his friends at Linn Canyon Ranch ,” Beckett adds.

STAY:

You can stay at Linn Canyon Ranch but you won’t find much in the way of “fast food or big-name hotels” in Teton Valley. Try Cobblestone Hotel or Teton Springs Lodge & Spa in Victor.

DRINK:

Grab a drink at The West

Side Yard or get some ribs and a Greyhound (fresh squeezed grapefruit juice and Grand Teton Vodka) at the Knotty Pine Supper Club in Victor. Head up Ski Hill Road across the Wyoming border to Trap Bar & Grill at Grand Targhee Ski Resort for winter activities when the season starts Nov. 19.

DO:

Some of Beckett's favorite activities include "horseback riding and hayrides at Linn Canyon Ranch and hikes in the Big Hole Mountains or the foothills of the Tetons. You can pick up a trail map of hikes from the Forest Ranger station on South Main in Driggs.”

SHOP:

“ Peaked Sports has everything you need for experiencing the amazing outdoors in Teton Valley,” Beckett says. On Friday mornings during warmer

months, a farmers' market in Driggs city square offers “handmade crafts, art, and baked goods," plus produce and meats.”

This month: Napa Valley

The insider:

Naoko and Maya

Dalla Valle, Dalla Valle Vineyards

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

If you love Napa Valley wine, you may already know about a decades-old vineyard perched in the eastern hills of Oakville. Founded in 1986, Dalla Valle Vineyards produces Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, all made with love and precision by mother-daughter duo Naoko (proprietor) and Maya Dalla Valle (winemaker and director). With harvest in full swing, we asked the pair for their favorite spots in the California wine region.

STAY:

Stanly Ranch has a "lavender pool where you can spend the day sipping wine and relaxing in the sun,” says Maya. “Its modern farmhouse vibe really captures the essence of Napa Valley.” Auberge du Soleil is in a "secluded location with stunning vineyard views; a highlight is definitely the Mediterranean-inspired, Michelinstarred restaurant.” Maya also loves Solage Resort & Spa . “It is so peaceful and feels like a true resort getaway.”

SHOP:

Elysewalker “offers a mix of super chic clothing and accessories and affordable finds,” Maya says. “Carter and Co is a ceramic-dinnerware store with the most beautiful home pieces. For fellow outdoor lovers, Sportago is my go-to for hiking gear.” Find local wines at Bay Grape, which “doubles as a wine bar.”

EAT:

TORC is one of Naoko’s favorites. “Chef Sean O’Toole‘s food is fabulous

and pairs well with our wines. I highly recommend the Sierra morel mushroom tortellini. Press, Charter Oak, and Bistro Don Giovanni are also wonderful.”

DRINK:

“

Cadet is in downtown Napa and a go-to latenight spot, known for its fun and cozy ambiance,” Maya says. “They offer a range of wines, from Napa to French reds and sparkling. Valley bar and bottle shop is a restaurant, natural wine bar, and bottle shop all in one. I like how versatile the setting is, and their food is so fresh.”

DO:

For a one-of-a-kind way to experience Napa Valley’s stunning views and scenery, Maya recommends going for a hike up either Oat Hill Mine Trail or Rector Creek . “The vertical incline is totally worth it for the views,” says Maya. “But for a day of relaxation, it’s always a treat to do a spa treatment at The Spa at Meadowood .”

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

Sure, Hollywood has a tourist-laden reputation, but look close and you’ll find “incredibly cool things to do while in the neighborhood, with new additions popping up all the time,” say Avi Brosh and Kirsten Leigh Pratt, the duo behind Palisociety hospitality group. Their latest hotel in town is a “fun, contemporary reimagination of a 1980s Hollywood motor lodge.” Here are more favorites.

STAY:

Palihotel Hollywood debuts at the end of this year. “Come for light, bright interiors adorned with vintage and custom furnishings and a heavy dose of style,” plus a sunsoaked pool and Benny’s on the Blvd. , a “neighborhood poolside bar.”

EAT:

“Run, don’t walk, to chef Evan Funke’s Mother Wolf!” the duo says. “The menu pays homage to the culinary heritage of la cucina romana, and the space feels worthy of getting dressed up, which is lovely in a town that is becoming more and more casual.” Horses is “a Californian restaurant and drinkery with a nod to the European bistro. Vibes are local (in an L.A. kind of way). Food is stellar.” You “couldn’t find a more Hollywood place to belly up to the bar” than The Musso & Frank Grill. “Serving

since 1919, its worn red leather booths and the original mahogany bar are steeped in Hollywood history,” the duo says. “Have a famous Musso martini … or three.”

DO:

Pop into the tucked-away Kohn Gallery for “rotating exhibits or installations du jour. They always have something worth seeing and the space is a simple backdrop that feels like the perfect antidote to Hollywood’s often frenetic energy.” Take in a show at the Hollywood Bowl and spend “an evening under the stars at this world-famous amphitheater, with a picnic and a bottle of wine in tow.” But “are you really in L.A. if it doesn’t involve a hike?” Runyon Canyon has “some of the best views in town.”

SHOP:

“ We love to shop the Hollywood Farmers' Market ,

This month: Hollywood

The insider: Avi Brosh and Kirsten Leigh Pratt, the duo behind Palisociety

where the endless offering of gorgeous, organic product and street food brings a special, community vibe.” Larry Edmunds Bookshop is a “one-of-akind Hollywood gem focused on film and theater books, posters, keepsakes, and more. Allow time for browsing.”

SEE L.A. FROM A COASTAL POINT OF VIEW

Spend the morning paddleboarding to breakfast or casting off on a deep-sea fishing adventure. Accept the afternoon’s invitation to lounge in a poolside cabana while taking in coastal views. Then experience an evening on the water aboard a sunset sail or dance under the stars on a dining cruise. We invite you to discover all that L.A.’s Marina has to offer.

Visit The Virginia Robinson Gardens in the Heart of Beverly Hills

Virginia Robinson Gardens, the first estate in Beverly Hills is a jewel of an historic home and gardens. It was built in 1911 for Harry and Virginia Dreyden Robinson, heir to J.W. Robinson’s Department store. The Renaissance Revival Pool Pavilion (above) was added in 1924 and is modeled after the Villa Pisani in the Tuscan region of Italy. The six and a half acres has five distinct gardens: 1. The Italian Renaissance Terrace Garden with citrus and large magnolia trees plus a variety of camellias, gardenias,and azaleas; 2. The Great Lawn Garden, with perennial flower borders and are specimen cycad ‘palms’; 3. The Rose Garden, with heirloom roses; 4. The Kitchen Garden or Potager, with vegetables and an herb garden; and 5. The Tropical Palm Garden, including a grove of king palms, reportedly the largest in the continental United States. The Robinson Gardens is open to the public for docent tours by advanced reservation only. For tours, please call 310-550-2086, or visit robinsongardens.org

T Bar T vineyard climbs up into the hills of Sonoma’s Alexander Valley like a painting. That’s Sam Jordan’s first memory of his family’s wine country property, which they acquired in 2015. Fast forward to 2022 and the entrepreneur isn’t just marveling at the beauty. He’s utilizing the grapes, which you may have already sipped in vintages from popular brand Iron Horse, to craft Cabernet for his own Red Bear Winery. In partnership with his father, Oakland real-estate investor Wayne Jordan, the co-founder hopes to create wines that appeal to a younger generation. Here’s what he’s up to this harvest season.

When did you make the decision to utilize the T Bar T vineyard grapes for your own wine after years of selling them to others?

2018 was an exceptional year for grape yield at T Bar T; essentially, we had more grapes than we could sell at the premium rate. Instead of lowering our price point or not fully utilizing our crop, my father and I decided to bring on a great local winemaker in Drew Damskey and create our own boutique brand.

Can you compare Red Bear to other Alexander Valley wines?

It’s comparable in that some of your favorite Alexander Valley wines are made with the exact same grapes. But that’s where the comparison stops. We have a fresh, new look and taste with Red Bear. We’re the new guys on the block and want to embody that.

You became fascinated by the culture surrounding wine on trips to Spain and Italy. What piqued your interest?

For me, it was the accessibility [of] great wines. One doesn’t have to go to fancy restaurants, wine bars, or a specific wine store to find great wines. This made wine approachable to a broader audience, something we want to achieve with Red Bear.

How do you characterize a wine that “can be drunk in any scenario”?

Fine wine can sometimes be so snobby. It can intimidate people. We want to offer a high-quality wine that’s accessible and enjoyable no matter if it’s for a special dinner or a summer day at the beach. I think this will help to break down some of the hesitation for young people in purchasing fine wines.

What was the biggest challenge throughout the process of crafting this first Cab? What did you learn that you’ll take into the next vintage?

No year is going to be the exact same as the previous. People always talk about some years being “better” than others, but now I’m starting to really understand that. There are so many factors with rain, temperatures, and then throw in fire season. It makes regulating the crop very difficult.

What’s next for Red Bear?

Restaurants. Currently, we’re only available online but will soon be in restaurants in Los Angeles and the Bay Area. From there, keeping the momentum going.