DIVING MILFORD SOUND
WHALE RAPTURES
GEAR: MASKS OVER $140
WHY THIS AREA IS WORLD RENOWNED AS ONE OF NEW ZEALAND’S TOP DIVE SITES
IN THE WATER WITH HUMPBACK WHALES OFF MOOREA
THE TEST TEAM RATES AND REVIEWS TOP-OF-THE-RANGE MASKS IN A BIG GROUP TEST
DON SILCOCK TELLS YOU WHERE TO HEAD FOR
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EDITOR’S NOTE GOODBYE 2020, HERE’S TO A BETTER 2021!
Times are changing, and to keep the magazine free, we’re asking dive stores to cover their own postage costs. If you enjoy reading the magazine, think about helping out your centre with a small donation to help cover their costs.
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Mark Evans Email: mark.evans@scubadivermag.com
DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER Matt Griffiths Email: matt@scubadivermag.com
CONTRIBUTORS
I think that it is fair to say that 2020 was a year like no other, and I, like most, am glad to see the back of it. Will 2021 be any better? Well, it would struggle to be any worse! I personally think that the outlook for the new year is a positive one, it looks like a vaccine is going to be available to the masses, and this should facilitate the opening of international borders, allowing families to reunite and divers to visit some of their favourite destinations, or to tick off some bucket list items. For those already starting to plan for the inevitable resumption of international travel, we have some great destination features in this issue. We continue our series of articles focusing on the diving delights of our closest neighbour, Papua New Guinea, while Alvero Herrnades takes a closer look at some spectacular big animal encounters in French Polynesia. While 2020 was not a great year, there were some positives to come out of it. One of which was the chance to explore our own backyard. One’s country of residence is often overlooked, as the allure of exotic locations further afield are often too much to resist. Still, COVID-19 showed us that Australia and New Zealand offer a stunning variety of dive locations and experiences. In this issue I continue my journey around Cairns on the liveaboard Spoilsport. The destination, the pristine waters of the Coral Sea and Ribbon Reefs. We also have a fascinating article about diving in one of New Zealand’s most-picturesque locations, Milford Sound. The views below the water are just as spectacular as those above the waterline, in a place that is known as the ‘coral capital of New Zealand’. So, goodbye and good riddance, 2020. Welcome 2021, hopefully a year to make up for lost time, live life to the full and tick off some of those big bucket list items.
Adrian Stacey, Editor-at-Large (Australia and New Zealand)
AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND AND SOUTHEAST ASIA TEAM
Adrian Stacey Editor-at-Large (Australia and New Zealand) Tel: +61 422 611 238 Email: adrian@scubadivermag.com
Mario Vitalini, Don Silcock, Simone McKirdy, Alvaro Herrero Lopez.
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3
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DIVING MILFORD SOUND
WHALE RAPTURES
GEAR: MASKS OVER $140
WHY THIS AREA IS WORLD RENOWNED AS ONE OF NEW ZEALAND’S TOP DIVE SITES
IN THE WATER WITH HUMPBACK WHALES OFF MOOREA
THE TEST TEAM RATES AND REVIEWS TOP-OF-THE-RANGE MASKS IN A BIG GROUP TEST
ON THE COVER DON SILCOCK TELLS YOU WHERE TO HEAD FOR
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IMAGE COURTESY OF: DON SILCOCK
REGULAR COLUMNS
FEATURES...
8 News
18 Australia
Coral IVF project on the Great Barrier Reef, Scuba Junkie wins a global award, Dive Munda’s Youth Sponsorship is a huge success, celebrating turtle season on Heron Island, ways of making dive travel more eco-friendly, and a new partnership between ZuBlu and Paralenz.
16 Medical Q&A
The experts at Divers Alert Network Asia-Pacific discuss getting back to diving after suffering a hip fracture, and after recovering from treatment for ovarian cancer.
66 Conservation Corner
Conservation projects in and around Australia, New Zealand and SE Asia - this issue, a global FinPrint survey finds sharks to be functionally extinct in 20 percent of world’s reefs.
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In the second segment of a three-part feature, Australia and New Zealand Editor-at-Large Adrian Stacey heads out of Cairns on the wellestablished Mike Ball Adventures liveaboard Spoilsport to the renowned Coral Sea and is astounded by how healthy and vibrantly colourful the reef is.
26 Papua New Guinea
Underwater photographer Don Silcock heads back to his beloved Papua New Guinea, and this time the seasoned visitor takes you on a whistlestop tour around the diving hotspots that need to be on your ‘hit list’ when you visit this wild and untamed land.
34 Underwater Photography
Underwater photography guru Mario Vitalini focuses his attention on one of the diver favourites - the sea turtle. He explains how best to capture eye-catching images of these friendly creatures.
WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
CONTENTS
...CONTINUED
GEAR GUIDE
38 French Polynesia
54 What’s New
Alvaro Herrero Lopez is left absolutely spellbound after sharing the Pacific waters off the French Polynesian island paradise of Moorea with majestic humpback whales.
44 Wreck Hunter
Join underwater archaeology expert Mike Haigh as he introduces the pioneering Wreck Hunter project on the Caribbean island of Utila, which offers the opportunity for recreational divers to learn the tricks of the trade - and play with some cool technology - on the 18th century shipwreck of The Oliver.
46 New Zealand
Round-up of new products, including the Mares Dual Adj 62x regulator, Fourth Element’s latest apres-dive wear, the Arctic hoodie, the Hollis HT F1 fins, xDeep’s zip-up hoodie, the Thermalution Yellow Grade 2.0 heated vest, dive-related face masks, and Tanu dive knives from Best Divers.
56 Group Test
This issue Editor-in-Chief Mark Evans and the test team rate and review a range of dive masks priced over $140.
Simone McKirdy takes us on a tour of the ‘eight wonder of the world’, a fantastical area of New Zealand that offers outstanding scenery above and below the waterline.
WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
7
Each month, we bring together the latest industry news from the Asia-Pacific region, as well as all over our water planet. To find out the most up-to-date news and views, check out the website or follow us on our various social media (@scubadivermag) www.scubadivermag.com.au
PIONEERING
CORAL IVF
The Great Barrier Reef Foundation delivers new life with help from Whitsunday tourism operators
A
t this year’s coral spawning event, the Whitsundays is leading the charge in tourism-led Reef restoration, with local tourism operators joining the Foundation and its partners to deploy Coral IVF on priority reefs. In a world-first, tourism operators in the Whitsundays are learning to restore local reefs using an innovative technique successfully pioneered by the Great Barrier Reef Foundation and its researchers – Coral IVF. Great Barrier Reef Foundation Managing Director Anna Marsden said, “Our Reef is the largest living thing on Earth, with rich corals spanning an area visible from space. “But it’s facing a growing combination of threats and we’re already seeing the effects in many parts of our Reef. Without help the outlook is bleak, but innovations like Coral IVF give us hope.” She continued: “The Foundation immediately saw the potential of this game-changing technique and we’re proud that with our research partners we brought Coral IVF to the Great Barrier Reef in 2016, and since then it has continued to give nature a helping hand.” The Coral IVF technique is just one of the more than 60 Reef-saving projects being delivered by the Great Barrier Reef Foundation right now and is ready to be scaled up to restore local reefs. “For the first time, tourism operators in the Whitsundays are working hand in hand with the Foundation and its scientists conducting Coral IVF on the Reefs they know and love, where they’re learning how to deploy this technique from their own boats,” Ms Marsden said. “This trial could see tourism operators leading Coral IVF all along the Great Barrier Reef during spawning events for years to come, tapping into the thousands of tourism operators and vessels keen to help save our Reef.” Southern Cross University Professor Peter Harrison said, “The Coral IVF technique consists of capturing coral eggs and
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sperm from heat tolerant corals that have survived bleaching, and rear millions of baby corals in specially-designed nursery pools, before delivering them onto target areas of damaged reefs to restore and repopulate them. “The baby corals settle onto those reefs and in a few years, they will grow to dinner plate size and beyond at which point they’ll sexually reproduce and create their own coral babies – re-establishing the breeding populations on damaged reefs.” Australian Institute of Marine Science Principal Systems Engineer Mark Gibbs said, “The project involves working closely with Whitsundays tourism operators to take the Coral IVF technique and mainstream the approach so that it can become a standard operating procedure and set of equipment that can be applied by the tourism industry and citizen scientists to restore coral reefs.” WCBIA Executive Secretary, Sharon Smallwood, said, “I am proud of member companies Kiana Sail and Dive, Ocean Rafting, Red Cat Adventures, and Southern Cross Sailing Adventures for putting their hands up to participate. “Our marine tourism operators have a powerful connection to the Whitsundays’ islands and coral reefs and feel strongly about protecting their patch. “Thriving coral eco-systems safeguard not just our precious underwater environment but also guarantee the future of sustainable tourism on the Great Barrier Reef. “Based on the success of previous trials of this coral IVF technique, particularly on severely degraded reefs in the Philippines, we have high hopes of upscaling and accelerating our current restoration efforts, with tangible and inspiring results.” Tourism Whitsundays Chief Executive Officer Tash Wheeler is thrilled to see the Whitsundays tourism industry taking the lead on the protection of one of our greatest assets. “As custodians, we can all do our bit to protect this incredible living structure. It is great to see so many of our tourism operators leading the charge in the protection of the Great Barrier Reef,” Mrs Wheeler said. “The Whitsundays, in the Heart of the Great Barrier Reef accounts for 40% of visitation each year through overnight sailing, day tours and outer reef experiences. The diversity between the outer and inner fringing reefs around our 74 islands is arguably one of the biggest tourism drawcards for the region. It is vital for the longevity of the tourism industry in The Whitsundays and Queensland, that our industry continues to lead the way in educating visitors and protecting the reef. “As an industry, we have to ensure that we continue to innovate and collaborate to ensure we look after this delicate eco-system.” This trial is part of the Great Barrier Reef Foundation’s Reef Islands Initiative, the largest reef habitat rehabilitation project of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere which was launched in the Whitsundays earlier this year. The Initiative is supported by funding from Lendlease, the Australian Government’s Reef Trust, the Queensland Government and the Fitzgerald Family Foundation. Coral IVF is just one technique that is being investigated as part of the Reef Restoration and Adaptation Program, which sees the Foundation bringing together the best minds and technologies to investigate new techniques to restore coral reefs and adapt them at unprecedented scales. This is funded by the GBR Foundation’s partnership with the Australian Government’s Reef Trust.
WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
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SABAH-BASED DIVE OPERATOR WINS GLOBAL DIVING AWARD
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27/10/2020 13:33
Sabah-based dive operator Scuba Junkie has won ‘Best Scuba Diving Dive Centre or Resort in the World for 2020’ in Dive Magazine’s annual Travel Awards. The Travel Awards are chosen by votes from readers worldwide, with Scuba Junkie topping a poll that involved more than 1,000 operators from all over the globe. Scuba Junkie has its roots in diving Pulau Sipadan since 2004, with the Mabul Beach Resort established in 2009. New centres followed in Kota Kinabalu, and then in Komodo, Sangalaki and Nusa Penida in Indonesia. “We are honoured to have won this award” said Richard Owen, Founder and Director of Scuba Junkie. “It has been a difficult year for everyone, so it’s heartening to have the ongoing support from our guests in this way.” Fittingly, Malaysia was ranked Number 3 for ‘Best Destination’ in the world for diving, an improvement on last year’s placement outside of the Top 10, reflecting Malaysia’s growth in popularity with divers. Although Sipadan and Mabul are world-renowned destinations, Pulau Tioman and the Perhentian Islands are also becoming more popular for diving holidays. Diving in such wonderful locations isn’t taken for granted at Scuba Junkie, who foster a sense of responsibility towards protecting the marine environment. “At Scuba Junkie, we aim to give the perfect blend of incredible underwater experiences with care and love for the marine environment – something vitally important when you are diving iconic destinations such as Pulau Sipadan.” continued Owen. Scuba Junkie has a strong focus on marine conservation, which Owen believes resonates with their guests. “Conservation of the local environment, both above and below the waves, has been at the heart of Scuba Junkie’s ethos right from our inception,” said Owen. “We believe that as divers and snorkellers we are fortunate to experience the joy and beauty of the underwater world and with this comes a duty to protect and conserve.” “This, combined with a keen focus on safety and high training standards, obviously leaves a lasting impression with our guests, who have chosen us time and time again for this and the fantastic dive experiences offered in all locations.” This strong focus on marine conservation follows through to the other dive centres in Indonesia, who shared the Travel Award. “We are truly delighted to have won this award, it is a fitting reflection on our dedicated staff who share their love for diving and conservation with all of our guests,” said Rohan Perkins, Director of Scuba Junkie in Indonesia. Richard Owen concluded: “We thank all of our guests for this award, and on behalf of all the Scuba Junkie staff and management, we look forward to welcoming them back for more incredible diving, when it is safe to do so.”
WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
HORIZON
A REVOLUTIONARY APPROACH
THE FUTURE OF EXPLORING THE BLUE IS GREEN
A recent survey by ZuBlu – one of Asia’s leading dive travel agencies - has revealed that while scuba divers are passionate about sustainable dive travel and conserving the environment, there remains a clear ‘eco gap’ between their desire to travel green, and their ability to discover and book more sustainable options. By addressing this gap during the COVID-19 hiatus, ZuBlu believes the pandemic could represent an opportunity to reforge the travel industry - and ensure that the future of exploring the blue, is very much green. ZuBlu recently surveyed its community of scuba divers across the globe and discovered that 92 percent want to dive more sustainably and 85 percent prefer to book eco-friendly options when travelling. However, 75 percent struggled to find the information they need to make a more informed choice - where they should travel to, and who they should book their holiday with. Filling this ‘eco gap’ and ensuring dive travellers have everything they need to make a more informed choice will mean that the dive travel industry emerges from the COVID-19 pandemic playing a leading role in a moresustainable travel industry. As well as being cornerstones of global dive travel, coral reefs are vital ecosystems, supporting 25 percent of all marine species on the planet. They help capture carbon from the atmosphere, produce much of the oxygen we breathe, and provide food and livelihoods for billions of people. Yet we’ve lost 50 percent of the world’s coral reefs in the past 20 years - and can expect to lose up to 90 percent by 2050. The dive travel industry can play a unique role to reverse this trend. According to a recent study published in the Journal of Marine Policy, coral reef tourism represents a $36 billion a year sector of the travel industry. And there are more than 70 countries across the world with so-called ‘million dollar reefs’ - those that generate more than $1 million dollars per square kilometre. Sustainable dive travel helps local communities
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harness the reef’s socioeconomic potential and encourages conservation for future generations. Misool Eco Resort in Raja Ampat is an outstanding example of how dive travel can benefit locals, tourists, and the environment alike. Village elder and Misool Foundation employee Bapak Mohammed notes: “Part of what I do is to act as a bridge between the resort, the foundation and the community to help them to understand each other’s needs. At first, fishermen did not welcome the idea of a no-takezone, however, as they started to see the changes in the environment, they began to understand that the future for their children is brighter now that the reefs are protected.” ZuBlu’s survey found that 75 percent of divers struggled to find reliable information on sustainable travel options, and as a result, similar sustainable tourism projects may struggle to reach their full potential. As part of its ongoing commitment to sustainable travel, ZuBlu commits to bridging the ‘eco-gap’ through connecting responsible travellers with sustainable travel options, helping travellers to make more informed choices at every stage, creating a community that unites both travellers and dive businesses to support a common cause, ensuring travellers can make every dive count, raising awareness of sustainability and conservation with news that inspires, and giving travellers the means to improve their dive skills and knowledge of the marine environment. www.zublu.com
WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
SUCCESS FOR DIVE MUNDA YOUTH SPONSORSHIP Palau’s premier scuba diving and eco-adventure company
Scuba diving • PADI dive courses • Liveaboard Kayaking • Snorkeling Tours • Land Tours
Dive Munda has now secured 60 paid sponsorships as part of its Youth Sponsorship campaign - and are hoping to get 20 more before the end of 2020. Belinda Botha from Dive Munda said: “We aim to certify 80 youth (60 percent female) and we are getting close. Thanks to all our wonderful sponsors and partners. Big shout out also to our new #youthambassadors Miss Solomon Islands, Gladys Habu, and up and coming #solomonislands soccer star, Raphael Le’ai, who got certified with us recently.” She continued: “We have now trained 45 local Solomon Island youth (60 percent female) to become SSI Open Water divers and we are super excited to see our goal within reach. Share the news with friends and #oceanlovers alike, or sponsor if you have not yet - for only AUD$240, you can help us educate our youth to protect and preserve our oceans, reefs, fish and sharks. Do something good during this crisis!” www.divemunda.com
WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
reservations@samstours.com Tel: +(680) 488-1062
www.samstours.com
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TURTLE SEASON HAS BEGUN AT HERON ISLAND
© Alex Kydd and Jordan Robins
Heron Island, a National Marine Park situated in the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef, is a significant nesting location for two threatened sea turtle species, the green turtle and the loggerhead turtle. Year after year, these turtles return on the high tide to nest in the sandy dunes from late October to early March. Late December marks the beginning of baby green and loggerhead turtle hatching season, a cycle that will continue into May. Undeterred by human presence, the hatchlings erupt from their nests between 25 to 50 metres from shore and make their way to the reef, just beyond the water’s edge. During this journey, the hatchlings will be imprinting on the environment, so they know to return to these beaches as mature adults. This crossing from nest to ocean also gives hatchlings the opportunity to warm up their flippers in preparation for their big ocean journey. For guests, the opportunity to see turtles nesting or hatchlings erupting is as simple as taking a stroll around the island at sunset or sunrise. As a world-renowned haven for turtles, guests at Heron Island are given strict guidelines for the viewing of turtles to minimise disturbance to these magnificent marine reptiles. Naturalist guides on Heron Island also lead complimentary educational tours for observing the turtles and hatchlings.
Calling Heron Island home, Master Reef Guide and Marine Biologist Rachael Jones gets to witness this wondrous lifecycle of the turtles and their hatchlings each year. “During our complimentary sunrise and sunset turtle walks, guests are amazed by the experience of seeing a turtle nesting or the tiny hatchlings erupting to make their dash out to sea. It is such a privilege to pass on my knowledge of sea turtles to our guests, who are enthusiastic to know how they can protect these endangered reptiles during their stay at Heron Island and also when they go back home,” she said.
NOVEMBER TO MARCH TURTLE PACKAGE
Heron Island twin share packages during turtle season start from $358 per room, per night. Inclusions; accommodation, daily breakfast, snorkelling equipment hire, guided island tours and turtle tours with qualified naturalist guides, a $100 Marine Centre voucher - which can be used towards a Snorkel Tour, I-Spy SemiSubmersible Tour or a Sunset Cruise, the choice is yours. Children 12 years and under can be added to the twin share package for $30 per child per night when using existing bedding. Included in the children’s pricing is daily breakfast plus snorkelling equipment hire. For bookings, call Heron Island on the Great Barrier Reef at 1800 875 343, or go online to www.heronisland.com
WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
ZUBLU ANNOUNCES PARTNERSHIP WITH PARALENZ
WRECK HUNTERS SEASON ONE 2021
Calling would-be undersea detectives! A unique opportunity to take part in the beginning of a diving archaeology programme is opening up in the summer of 2021* on the Caribbean island of Utila. Travel agency ZuBlu has announced a partnership with innovative underwater camera specialists Paralenz. Adam Broadbent and Matthew Oldfield from ZuBlu said: “Sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do here at ZuBlu, and a recent survey found that 92 percent of our community want to be more sustainable divers - a sentiment shared by Paralenz and a driving force behind their endless ingenuity.” Since 2016, Paralenz have established themselves as industry leaders, designing intuitive cameras specificallybuilt for life underwater, without the need for excessive housing and colour filters. Now, they’re taking things a step further, empowering divers all over the world to join the sustainability revolution. Paralenz have made it their mission to help and inspire each and every diver to speak for the ocean. Not only is the new Paralenz Vanquita waterproof to 350m, made from 100 percent military-grade aluminum, and equipped with depth-controlled colour correction, it also records vital environmental data from every dive that users can share with researchers at the click of a button. Environmentallyconscious divers can now make each dive count towards a better future, whilst enjoying every minute underwater. Adam and Matthew said: “Our new partnership with Paralenz will strengthen our ever-growing community of like-minded businesses and environmentally-conscious divers. Through this community, we hope to add weight to our voice in the ongoing conversation on sustainable dive travel and empower travellers to make sustainable choices at every step – from offsetting the carbon of their flight to choosing an eco-friendly resort, and collecting scientific data on every dive.” www.zublu.com | www.paralenz.com
WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
The Wreck Hunters project is offering a onemonth, limited availability window for divers to be a part of the Season One team. This all-inclusive package (prices to be announced on the website) is about getting to the heart of the story of a wreck called ‘The Oliver’, its rich history and the life of 18th Century mariners. Learn the skills of undersea archaeology, from traditional to cutting edge techniques. If you’re a relatively experienced diver (PADI Advanced Open Water with at least 30 dives), or equivalent (See website for full details), this could be just what you’re looking for. Project Director Mike Haigh’s ideal candidates have a ‘good sense of humour’ and enjoy team work.
So if you think this project would help put a smile on your face, why not get in touch to find out more at
www.wreckhunters.co.uk info@wreckhunters.co.uk *COVID restrictions may result in a change of operation dates.
WreckHunters__ANZ.indd 1
14/12/2020 10:15
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MEDICAL Q&A New South Wales Abyss Scuba Diving
02 9583 9662
abyss.com.au
Adreno Scuba Diving
02 9669 6214
adreno.com.au
Dive Centre Manly
02 9977 4355
divesydney.com.au
Dive Forster At Fisherman's Wharf 02 6554 7478
diveforster.com.au
Dive Jervis Bay
02 4441 5255
divejervisbay.com
Feet First Dive
02 4984 2092
feetfirstdive.com.au
Frog Dive Sydney
02 9958 5699
frogdive.com.au
Jetty Dive Centre
02 6651 1611
jettydive.com.au
Scuba Warehouse
02 9689 1389
scubawarehouse.com.au
South West Rocks Dive Centre 02 6566 6474
swrdive.com.au
United Divers
02 4228 5962
uniteddivers.com.au
Wilderness Sea & Ski
02 9822 4112
wilderness.net.au
02 4296 4215
windangdive.com.au
Windang Dive & Spearfishing
Queensland Adreno Scuba Diving
07 3895 8119
Brisbane Dive Academy
07 3890 0342 brisbanediveacademy.com.au
Dive Dive Dive
07 3890 4443
divedivedive.com.au
Sportys Watersports
07 5531 6511
divewarehouse.com.au
Diversworld
07 4041 4004
diversworld.com.au
Remote Area Dive
07 4721 4425
remoteareadive.com.au
Sunreef Diving Services
07 5444 5656
sunreef.com.au
Tech Dive Academy
07 4015 2915
techdive.com.au
07 5486 8004
wolfrockdive.com.au
Wolf Rock Dive
adreno.com.au
South Australia Adelaide Scuba
08 8294 7744
Dive Shack - Snorkel Safari
08 8371 5822
thediveshack.com.au
Diving Adelaide Pty Ltd
08 7325 0331
divingadelaide.com.au
The Dive Shop Port Lincoln
adelaidescuba.com.au
08 8682 1656 thediveshopportlincoln.com.au
Tasmania Canoe 'N' Surf
03 6424 4314
canoensurf.com.au
Go Dive Hobart
03 6231 9749
godivetas.com.au
Victoria Academy Of Scuba
0408 543 627
academyofscuba.com.au
Adreno Scuba Diving
03 9584 8698
adreno.com.au
All About Scuba
03 9939 4913
allaboutscuba.com.au
Bayplay
03 5984 0888
bayplay.com.au
Dive Gear Australia
03 9702 3694
divegearaustralia.com.au
Diveline
03 9783 7166
diveline.com.au
Extreme Watersports
03 5982 3432
extremewatersport.com.au
Geelong Dive Centre
03 5221 3342
divein2scuba.com.au
Mr Dive
0430 347 366
mrdive.com.au
Professional Diving Serv. Carrum Downs 03 9775 0998
profdivers.com
Professional Diving Serv. Portland
03 5523 6392
profdivers.com
Robinson Sportscene
03 5572 2736 sportscene@westnet.com.au
S.E.A.L Diving Services
03 5174 3434
Snorkel & Dive Safari Altona Beach
03 9317 1000 snorkeldivemelbourne.com.au
sealdivingservices.com.au
Warrnambool Diving & Firearms
03 5562 1685
divingandfirearms.com.au
Western Australia Adreno Scuba Diving
08 6424 8480
adreno.com.au
Batavia Coast Dive
08 9921 4229
bataviacoastdive.com.au
Coastal Water Dive
08 9721 7786
coastalwaterdive.com.au
Diving Frontiers & Charters
08 9240 6662
divingfrontiers.com.au
Dolphin Scuba Diving
08 9353 2488
dolphinscuba.com.au
Ningaloo Whale Shark & Dive
08 9949 1116
whalesharktours.com.au
Oceano Dive Centre, Mandurah 08 9535 2047
oceanodivecentre.com.au
Oceano Dive Centre, Wangara 08 6209 7034
oceanodivecentre.com.au
Perth Diving Academy Hillarys 08 9448 6343
perthdiving.com.au
Perth Scuba
08 9455 4448
perthscuba.com
Southcoast Diving Supplies
08 9841 7176
divealbany.com.au
PARTNERS 16
The Divers Alert Network (DAN) is the diving industry’s largest association dedicated to scuba-diving safety. Serving divers for more than 30 years, DAN provides emergency assistance, medical information sources, educational opportunities and more. www.danap.org
FROM THE DAN MEDICAL LINE DAN® medical information specialists and researchers answer your dive medicine questions DIVING AFTER A FRACTURE
Q: I suffered a hip fracture and three weeks ago had surgery to insert a plate and screws on the neck of my femur. Is it safe to dive eight weeks after surgery, and is there a risk of decompression illness (DCI)? A: While you should seek a specific answer from a local physician trained in dive medicine, I can offer general guidelines. The industry standard for a return to diving after any fracture is for your doctor to release you for full and unrestricted activity, including contact sports, and then have an additional convalescent period of one-half the length of the regular healing time for the fracture. This extra time is to recover any lost physical fitness and aerobic capacity due to atrophy during the healing and rehabilitation process. If your doctor releases you for full and unrestricted activity after six weeks, for example, you should add three weeks for a total waiting period of nine weeks. These numbers are merely an example, and you should consult with your treating physician for a definitive answer. — Lana P. Sorrell, MBA, EMT, DMT
DIVING AFTER OVARIAN CANCER
Q: I was diagnosed with ovarian cancer in June 2019 and received six chemo treatments. I was cancer-free by 15 November, 2019, but a scan revealed I had a pulmonary embolism. An ultrasound showed deep vein thrombosis (DVT) in my left calf and upper left arm and a third superficial DVT in my lower left arm. I have been on an anticoagulant since 17 November, 2019. When is it safe for me to dive again? A: Dive medicine experts consider the use of a blood thinner to be a relative contraindication to diving. You can start to consider a safe return to diving after finishing the anticoagulant therapy, and when both you and the treating physician understand and accept the risk involved. General risks are associated with diving while on anticoagulant medications. The greatest concern is the likelihood of severe bleeding and complications from even minor trauma such as ear or sinus barotrauma. There is also a theoretical risk of bleeding into the brain or spinal cord if decompression illness were to occur. Many dive physicians recommend using very conservative profiles to minimise this risk and making sure you can equalise your ears without difficulty if you decide to return to diving. It is important to consider, especially if you travel to remote locations, that you are at an increased risk for bleeding. If you sustain an injury, there is no easy way to stop the bleeding, and many hospitals or clinics in remote locations do not have some of the products that can stop bleeding in extreme circumstances. You should also discuss with your physician the reason for the anticoagulant prescription. Pulmonary embolisms and DVT have implications for fitness to dive independent of the issues associated with anticoagulant use. Your physician team will need to carefully assess the etiology of the DVT, location, associated medical conditions, resolution and the chance of its recurrence. — Travis Ward, EMT-P, DMT
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PART TWO For the second part of his ten-day adventure to Cairns, Adrian Stacey headed out to the world-renowned diving of the Coral Sea PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADRIAN STACEY
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M
y home/office for the next five days would be on board the legendary Mike Ball Dive A-dventures impressive vessel Spoilsport. This large, twin-hulled, purpose-built liveaboard has been plying these waters since 1986 and is an excellent platform for diving at the distant reefs of the region. This multi-award-winning boat is large and spacious, with a huge sun deck, a comfortable saloon, a generous alfresco seating area and well-proportioned cabins. There is ample room on the back-dive deck, and it is clear that a lot of thought has gone into this area. There is plenty of space for tech divers and photographers to prepare and store their equipment without getting in anyone’s way, and without fear of having valuable gear accidentally damaged. Elevated platforms at eye level, so you could view images without having to hunch over your camera awkwardly, were a particularly nice touch, as was the special air gun for drying your camera, should the need for a hasty change of battery or memory card be required. Social distancing meant that there was even more room on Spoilsport than usual and as I was a single traveller, COVID-safe rules dictated that I be placed in a cabin on my own, so there really is a silver lining to most situations. However, on reflection, I would have happily shared a cabin in exchange for COVID to have never reared its ugly head and ruined most of 2020. After we were given the mandatory safety briefings, we were informed about what we could expect from the trip and
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the dive sites that we would be visiting. It is usually at this point that my excitement begins to build, and the possibility of what might be in store allows my imagination to run wild, on this occasion fuelled even further by the excellent weather conditions we were experiencing. The calm seas and minimal wind speed meant that in addition to visiting the stunning Osprey Reef, we also would be afforded the chance to explore Bougainville Reef. So, what makes the Coral Sea such a special place to dive? The answer to that question is simply geography. Take Osprey Reef, for example. Have a look at a marine map or, if you were born in this century, download an app and look at its location and topography. Osprey Reef is a lone sentinel in the middle of the Coral Sea, 60km from the nearest reef, 350km from Cairns and separated from the continental shelf by a vast deep-water trench. Its isolation is complete. This spectacular coral atoll rises almost vertically, a staggering 1,000m from the ocean floor. It is 25km in length, 12km wide and covers an area of 195 sq km. A confluence of ocean currents meets here, delivering all the nutrients needed for a healthy ecosystem, and visibility can be anywhere from 30 to 60 metres. In short, this reef has all the necessary ingredients to support abundant coral growth, thriving fish populations, and to attract a whole host of apex predators and pelagic fish. One of the smallest fish in the oceans, the stout infant fish inhabits the shallow lagoon at the summit of the reef. The Nautilus, described as a living fossil, can be found in the reef’s depths, and manta rays, hammerhead sharks and silvertip sharks are all regular visitors, not to mention the resident grey reef, blacktip sharks and whitetip sharks that are ever-present.
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The soft corals are absolutely mind-blowing
Its neighbour to the south and our first port of call was the equally impressive Bougainville Reef. Although much smaller at only 4km in diameter, it too spears to the surface from a depth of 1,000m and is subjected to the same currents that make Osprey Reef so prolific. Bougainville also has a colourful history. It was given its name as a tribute to Louis-Antoine de Bougainville, the French explorer who almost reached the shores of Australia before Captain James Cook. He made it as far as Bougainville Reef, where he noticed what looked like an interpretable line of breakers on the horizon. This was the Great Barrier Reef. Assuming that he would not be able to get past this immense obstacle, he instead headed north to Papua New Guinea. Bougainville also boasts the remains of two shipwrecks, a freighter called the Atlas, and the Antonio Tarabocchia, a cargo ship that ran aground in November 1961. In more recent times, Bougainville has had to contend with coral bleaching and cyclone damage, which makes the excellent state of the reef today even more impressive. Perhaps its isolation and the currents that bring so much nutrient-rich water helped revitalise the corals on this reef so quickly. The sites we visited were covered in an impressive array of hard corals. So, far from soaring over ghostly white plains of dead coral skeletons, we were treated to the pastel
hues of layer upon layer of healthy coral growth. With a healthy reef comes a thriving ecosystem. The spectacular hard coral coverage provides a haven for a myriad of small reef fish, chromis, anthias and the ever-present anemonefish, which in turn attract the attention of larger predatory fish. We encountered large schools of barracuda, colossal potato cod, impressive tuna, and aggressive trevallies on the first dive alone. The second dive provided encounters with blacktip reef sharks, Maori wrasse, jacks and even a substantial green turtle and the sheer, plummeting walls add an additional layer of drama to diving on this prestigious reef. The suburb weather condition even allowed us to venture to the far side of the reef where the scattered remains of the Antonio Tarabocchia are located, giving the area the look of a watery modern-art installation. The huge engine block sheltered a congregation of black and white snapper and the boiler, which was in slightly deeper water, was covered in coral and teeming with marine life. Spoilsport
There is plenty of space for tech divers and photographers to prepare and store their equipment without getting in anyone’s way 20
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Spacious dive deck
Clownfish in their host anemone Frenetic shark feed is intense
This side of the reef is more exposed to the punishing weather of the open ocean, and therefore the coral is more stunted, providing a stark contrast to the towering coral columns of the more-sheltered side of the reef. Still, there is plenty of life in this area, with carpet anemones and resident clownfish, soldierfish, rabbitfish and yellow-striped snapper all swaying back and forth in the gentle swell. After the last dive we travelled overnight to our next destination, and while Bougainville Reef was superb, Osprey Reef, in my humble opinion, takes things to the next level. Our first dive of the day was at the impressive False Entrance, a site that brought home the sheer magnitude of the reef.
Not all the wrecks are deep
Snaking sandy gullies cut a path through hard coral-encrusted ridges, making their way from the tranquil inner lagoon to the awe-inspiring 1,000m drop-off. A massive school of barracuda lazily swirling in the blue next to the boat greeted our entry, joined by a large school of big-eyed jacks and several juvenile blacktip reef sharks. Hard coral, soft corals, sponges and sea fans all jostled for space on the overcrowded reef, and there was plenty of additional marine life at this magnificent site, including whitetip reef sharks, turtles, schools of fusilier and snapper, to name just a few.
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Sea fans on the reef
Expect healthy reefs smothered in growth
Next up was the legendary North Horn and Soft Coral Wall. Located at the northernmost tip of Osprey Reef, this is where two walls converge, and a small sloping plateau has formed. The perfect place for predators to congregate as the currents push out to the open ocean, and which also makes this location the ideal place for the shark attraction dive. As we waited patiently for the show to begin, the sharks began to assemble in more-significant numbers. When the cage containing an assortment of fish heads was lowered down to the reef floor, the excitement started to build, for both divers and sharks alike. As the contents of the cage were released, the gathering of grey and whitetip reef sharks exploded into a maelstrom of thrashing tails and snapping teeth. Within a couple of adrenaline-packed minutes, the frantic action was over, and the sharks gradually dispersed over the reef, most merely relocating to the tip of North Horn, where the current had begun to pick up. After the excitement of the shark feed, there was still plenty of time to enjoy the stunning Soft Coral Wall. A multi-coloured patchwork of broccoli corals, sea fans and whip corals painted almost every inch of the reef in an explosion of colour that would put the most vibrant of Picassos to shame. Grey and whitetip reef sharks patrolled this lavishly coloured wall, and a large school of jacks shimmered in front of a deep blue background.
One of the smallest fish in the oceans, the stout infant fish inhabits the shallow lagoon at the summit of the reef WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
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Vast shoal of barracuda sweep over the reef
For avid photographers, Mike Ball Dive Adventures offer the opportunity of a private shoot with the sharks for the third dive. While most of the group were dropped at the far end of Soft Coral Wall, my buddy and I were treated to a private audience with the sharks. On this occasion, they were not fed but attracted by the smell of a fish head in a small cage. This lures the sharks in but does not result in a feeding frenzy, thus allowing a closer interaction. Once again after photographing the sharks for about 20 minutes, there was still plenty of time to enjoy the incredible soft corals that this area boasts, with overhangs dripping in sea fans and soft corals of every size and colour jostling for space. The final dive at Admiralty Anchor was another great dive. Here a dramatic landscape of canyons, ridges, towering bommies and endless swim-throughs is perched on top of the precipice Hard and soft corals provide habitat for multitude of fish spacies
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Every colour imaginable
of the reef. Juvenile whitetip reef sharks seek shelter and a reprieve from the rigours of life on the reef - it is a place where turtles roam and a myriad of reef fish called home. With the first part of the trip completed, it was time to depart this isolated and spectacular region. The ocean wilderness of the Coral Sea offers some truly world-class diving, stunning vertical soft coral gardens, towering hard coral structures and animal encounters with everything from sharks and manta rays down to nudibranchs and a variety of other tiny critters. The majestic Osprey Reef should definitely be on every diver’s bucket list. n
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CAIRNS
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New Guinea Island Don Silcock continues his exploration of Papua New Guinea, this time focusing his attention on New Guinea Island PHOTOGRAPHS BY DON SILCOCK
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The best dive sites are concentrated along the offshore and sunken barrier reefs, which involves a boat journey of up to an hour to access. A couple of those sites like End Bommie and Suzie’s Bommie are great places to see the both the elusive, but spectacular, Rhinopias and pygmy seahorses
Independence from Australia came to the eastern half of the island in 1975, when the country of Papua New Guinea was born, with the western half ultimately becoming the Indonesian province of West Papua.
THE CORAL TRIANGLE
W
hen the 16th century Portuguese and Spanish explorers first arrived in the far-eastern part of what was then called the Malay Archipelago, they had no way of knowing they had stumbled upon the second largest island in the world. Neither could they possibly know that the island is one of the most-biodiverse places in the world, occupying just 0.5 percent of the Earth’s surface, but with almost 10 percent of its species - and that is just on the land! What they did note though was the similarity between the indigenous people and those of the Guinea region of Africa, which is how the island came to be called New Guinea. Once discovered, New Guinea became part of the ‘great game’ played by the European colonizing nations, with the Dutch taking all of the western half of the huge island, and England and Germany holding the eastern quarters until World War One, when they were amalgamated and handed over to Australia to administer.
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Equally certain is that those explorers knew absolutely nothing about what we now call the Coral Triangle - the area of the Indo-Pacific widely acknowledged as the richest-known area of marine biodiversity in the world. Encompassing the eastern parts of Indonesia and Malaysia, together with all of Timor Leste, Papua New Guinea, the Philippines and the Solomons, the Coral Triangle’s marine biodiversity is simply stunning, with more than 600 species of coral and 3,000 species of reef fish. To put those numbers into perspective – the Red Sea has around 200 coral species and 1,000 fish species, while the Caribbean has 50 and 900 respectively! New Guinea island sits at the very heart of the Coral Triangle, with two of the most well-known global diving locations at its extremities – Raja Ampat on the western tip, and Milne Bay on the eastern tip. Numerous other marine biodiversity hot spots have been found around the vast coastline of New Guinea, but the sheer remoteness of it all means there must be many others just waiting to be discovered!
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DIVING EASTERN NEW GUINEA ISLAND
The Pacific Gas
There are three main diving locations on the ‘mainland’, as the eastern half of New Guinea is often referred to in PNG, and at the very top of that list is Milne Bay. Milne Bay is what first put Papua New Guinea on the radar of travelling divers and underwater photographers worldwide, largely as a result of the late Bob Halstead and his adventures on the MV Telita - the first liveaboard in the country. That was some 30 years ago and while much has changed since those exciting early days, Milne Bay is still as biodiverse as it always was and is an incredible diving experience! On the north coast of New Guinea is the wonderfully scenic location of Tufi, with its magnificent tropical fjords and vibrant offshore reefs. On the south coast is the less well-known, but equally excellent, diving around the capital Port Moresby.
DIVING MILNE BAY
The area of PNG referred to as ‘Milne Bay’ is a little confusing, because in reality there are two Milne Bays… The first is the large, sheltered bay on the south-eastern tip of New Guinea island, named after the British Admiral Sir Alexander Milne, and then there is the much larger province of Milne Bay. Milne Bay Province is roughly the size of New Zealand, but only about five percent of that area is dry land, and the rest are the waters surrounding the 600-plus islands that make up the province. Those islands fall into four main groups – the Trobriands, the D’Entrecasteaux Islands, Woodlark Island and the Louisiade Archipelago. Apart from periodic exploratory trips, diving is only really possible in and around the Milne Bay itself and there are two options available to do that – resort based in the north of the bay, or a liveaboard covering the complete area. Both are great options, and the perfect trip would be a combination of both because that would allow a real appreciation of the incredible diversity of the overall area.
RESORT BASED
Tawali Dive Resort is located on a limestone headland on the Solomon Sea side of the peninsula that forms the north coast of Milne Bay. The main lodge and accommodation is perched up on the headland, surrounded by dense rainforest and overlooking the house reef and main jetty, while to the west is a large bay where the resort’s service area is located.
Gorgonian sea fans
MV Chertan
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Swept as it is by the rich currents of the south coast, the wreck has become a beacon to large pelagics and because it is so intact, it makes for a really excellent dive!
Tawali’s location is both picture-perfect and ideally situated for quick and easy access to the best dive sites on the north coast. Plus, it is possible to day-dive some of the excellent sites at Nuakata Island near the mouth of the bay. The north coast has a tremendous selection of dive sites, which range from black sand critter diving to superb fringing reefs, plus there are a number of dynamic offshore sea mounts. My personal favourite on the north coast is Deacon’s Reef, located on a headland near the small village of Lauadi and swept by the nutrient-dense coastal currents. Those rich nutrients have created an astonishing array of beautiful hard corals, sponges and sea fans, which make the site a delight to dive and, because it is a relatively shallow dive, it is usually bathed in light and an absolute joy to photograph! Plus, the nearby deep waters mean that there is a good chance of seeing cruising hammerheads, whalesharks and oceanic mantas out in the blue.
LIVEABOARD
The big advantage of diving Milne Bay from a liveaboard is that you get access to the more-remote sites around the East Cape Reefs in the north, together with the excellent sites in the southern area of the bay around Samarai Island and the China Strait. In the south there are two really exceptional
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Coral, sponge and anemone growth is prolific
sites that are essential diving, starting with the manta ray cleaning station at Gona Bara Bara island, which is the best and most-reliable location in all of PNG to see reef mantas (Mobula alfredi). Then there is the jetty at Samarai Island, the former provincial capital under Australian colonial rule. The jetty has definitely seen better days… but it is a really excellent critter site where you can spend hours exploring the accumulated flotsam and jetsam! There are two liveaboards that operate in Milne Bay – MV Chertan, owned and operated by Rob van der Loos, who enjoys a particularly strong following with macro underwater photographers. Rob has been diving Milne Bay Province for nearly 35 years and simply stated, he knows the bay better than any other single individual. Based from Alotao, the main town and provincial capital, Chertan has itineraries that cover both the southern and northern areas of Milne Bay. The second option is the country’s newest liveaboard, the MV Oceania, which is skippered by Dan Johnson, another longterm PNG resident. The boat was launched in 2019 after being completely refurbished by Dan and in a word, it is impressive! Based from Kimbe Bay on the north coast of New Britain, Oceania relocates to Milne Bay in February and March as part of Dan Johnson’s plan to operate the boat year-round in the best locations in Papua New Guinea.
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ain
West New Brit
E R O H S A THINGR THE REMOTE REACH FO
ADVENTURE ACROSS REMOTE ISLANDS As the world starts to slowly reopen, and as travellers make more conscious decisions about where they want to travel to next, we pose the following question – how about travelling to Australia’s closest neighbour, a mere 150km to the north of Cape York? Remote natural beauty and rich diverse culture abounds right on your doorstep. Have you added Papua New Guinea to your 2021 bucket list yet? Find your remote at www.papuanewguinea.travel
Vibrant anemone
WHEN TO GO
Milne Bay is an all-year round destination as the shape of the bay itself and the many islands of the province mean that sheltered locations can always be found. But to dive Milne Bay at its very best, you should visit from November through to late January as that is the dry season for that part of Papua New Guinea and the minimal run-off from the rivers and streams means that underwater visibility can be exceptional. The only really viable option for getting to Milne Bay is by air from Port Moresby to Alotau’s Gurney (GUR) airport, which is served on a regular basis by both Air Nuigini and PNG Air.
DIVING TUFI
Frogfish
Located at Cape Nelson on the north-east coast, this area is without doubt one of the most-scenic and picturesque areas in all of PNG and Tufi fjord is the stunning epicentre! The diving at Tufi offers a pretty special combination of options, which range from critter hunting in the assorted debris and general junk around the main wharf to pristine offshore reefs rarely visited by anybody other than the resort’s guests. There are some interesting World War Two wrecks and fjord sponge gardens in between, and all are combined with the superb above-water scenery and interesting local village culture! There is only one real option for diving this part of New Guinea island and that’s Tufi Dive Resort, which is located on a ridge overlooking the main fjord and surrounded by dense rainforest which descends right down to the water’s edge. A typical dive day at Tufi will have you leaving the dive jetty at 8am for the trip out to the offshore reefs, with two dives on sites dictated by the prevailing weather. The journey out varies on the sites but is typically between 40 minutes and one hour. There are about 25 offshore reefs that are dived regularly, and they vary from seamounts to fringing reefs, but generally all are good dives, and several are truly exceptional! A third dive in the afternoon will be either in the main fjord or around the jetty, with night dives at the jetty. There are myriad shrimps in PNG waters
Milne Bay is an all-year round destination as the shape of the bay itself and the many islands of the province mean that sheltered locations can always be found WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
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WHEN TO GO
Picturesque coral reef
The best time to dive Tufi is in October and November, during the doldrum period between the trade wind seasons when the diving conditions both offshore and onshore are optimum. As a result, the seas are calm, visibility is great and the water is cooler – which brings out the critters. The only way to get to Tufi is by air as there are no roads through the Owen Stanley range that separates the north coast from the south. The resort has built its own landing strip and is served by both Air Nuigini and PNG Air from Port Moresby.
DIVING PORT MORESBY
It has to be said that Port Moresby does not exactly enjoy a great reputation and there are definitely parts of POM, as it is known locally, that you should avoid like the plague! But is it the near-death experience it is associated with? Well, in my experience, it is not and what is more, there is some remarkably good diving to be had, including one of the best shipwrecks in the country. The best dive sites are concentrated along the offshore and sunken barrier reefs, which involves a boat journey of up to an hour to access. A couple of those sites like End Bommie and Suzie’s Bommie are great places to see the both the elusive, but spectacular, Rhinopias and pygmy seahorses. Located on Horseshoe Reef is the wreck of the Pacific Gas, a former LPG tanker that was scuttled in 1986. The wreck is completely intact and sits upright on the reef slope with the top of its bow in 14m and the stern in 43m. Swept as it is by the rich currents of the south coast, the wreck has become a beacon to large pelagics and because it is so intact, it makes for a really excellent dive! There are two options to dive Port Moresby, starting with Pro Dive, ran by long-term PNG resident John Miller with his boat MV Solatai, which operates from Tahira Marina. Alternatively, Loloata Island is the newly refurbished private island resort in Bootless Bay that also offers diving on all the Port Moresby sites. Pygmy seahorse
PNG is wild and untamed topside
WHEN TO GO
The absolute best time to dive Port Moresby is from mid-April through to the end of May in the doldrum period between the end of the wet season and the start of the dry season. Port Moresby is the only international gateway in to PNG and is well served by Air Nuigini , Qantas and PNG Air from Brisbane and Cairns.
CONCLUSION
Located as it is in the heart of the Coral Triangle, the huge island of New Guinea has some amazing diving generally and the eastern half, the ‘mainland of PNG’, has three key locations which all offer great diving. But each is different… Milne Bay has incredible biodiversity and variety, while Tufi has its critters and wonderful offshore reefs, plus scenery to die for, and Port Moresby has great overall diving and an incredible wreck. Tough to choose! The perfect trip would be three to four days diving Port Moresby then a short one-hour flight to Alotau and the same at Tawali. Then a seven to ten day liveaboard to experience the rest of Milne Bay. Back to POM and a connecting flight to Tufi for another three to four days of diving. What a way to cleanse the mind of 2020 and pandemic lockdowns! n
DON SILCOCK
In more normal times, Don is based from Bali in Indonesia, but is currently hunkered down in Sydney… His website www.indopacificimages.com has extensive location guides, articles and images on some of the best diving locations in the Indo-Pacific region and ‘big animal’ experiences globally. 32
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UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY
HERE COME
THE TURTLES
Underwater photography guru Mario Vitalini turns his attentions to one of the perennial diver favourites – the turtle – and explains how best to shoot these charismatic creatures PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARIO VITALINI
T
urtles have undeniable charisma. These reptiles are among the most-fascinating animals you can encounter during a dive. From the seven species of marine turtles, you are more likely to see three of them - hawksbill, green, and loggerhead turtles. And with their passive attitude, they make for great subjects, but how to make your turtle shots stand out? These are my tips and tricks to getting a tip-top turtle shot.
A green turtle approaches to have a closer look
THE CHALLENGE
There are two main shots you can take of a turtle. One is a swimming shot, probably the more difficult to take, and the other one is the turtle on a reef. Reef shots can be easier to take, but require a lot of attention, particularly to the background. When they are on either resting or feeding, turtles are relatively easy to approach and the main challenge is to get a good composition. Distracting or busy backgrounds and poor eye contact is the main reason some turtle pictures do not live to the expectations. In the case of a swimming turtle, the greatest challenge is to get close enough without scaring the poor thing. I have seen hundreds of photos of turtles and on many occasions, they are swimming away or there is not good eye contact. You also need to pay attention to the sun position as it can produce overexposed images.
Turtles are one of the morechilled subjects
TIPS FOR SUCCESS
If you are diving a site where the chances to encounter turtles are high, try to visualize the shots before you get in the water. It always helps if you are familiar with the area, but if not a quick chat with your dive guide will give you plenty of information about kind of situations you will be likely to
Best of Bunaken
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When photographing turtles on a reef, make sure the reef itself is not distracting but complements the subject
A hawksbill turtle rest on the reef in Komodo National Park
find and what pictures you can take. In order to get a great turtle shot, there are three main things to remember. First of all, never, never chase a turtle. They may look slow but if you have ever tried to swim after one you know they can be incredibly fast. If you chase them, they will get spooked and immediately swim away. Instead, let it swim to you, most of the time curiosity will drive them close enough for you to take a few shots. When you see a turtle on the reef, it normally is resting or feeding, do not rush towards it, you will only scare them away. Try to move in front of the turtle and fill the frame. Sometimes their own reflection on your housing dome port will intrigue them and will come for a very close look or even a tentative nibble. Whenever possible try to get the turtle from a slightly lower angle. This will reduce the amount of reef in your shot and potentially give a view of the surface adding to the sense of depth. However, be wary of the incredibly reflective underbelly as your strobes are likely to overexpose it. Reduce your flashguns power or move them further back. In order not to waste time setting your camera, try to anticipate the encounter and have your settings ready. When I’m swimming along a reef, I tend to take some test shots into the blue so I’m ready if something shows up. When you see a turtle, take a few minutes to see what it is doing, If it is swimming fast along the reef, chances are it won’t stop. In that case, I wouldn’t bother trying to get close, it’s clearly going somewhere and not interested in hanging around. If on the other hand, it seems relaxed, try to position yourself in a way that the turtle will move where you want it
to be. Remember they are likely to go the opposite way you do. So if you want it on a blue background, try to get close to the reef. Wait for the turtle to get in the position you want it before you take your shot.
SOME TECHNICAL TIPS
Whenever possible try to go for a wide-angle lens to ensure you can fill the frame with your subject. Macro and normal lenses work very well for portraits and details of the face and eyes. Regardless if you are shooting with strobes or ambient light make sure you control the background brightness, particularly if you are shooting into the blue. When shooting ambient light make sure the sun is behind you to have good lighting in your subject. You can also try to shoot silhouettes; ensure you expose perfectly for the background and position yourself right under the turtle. It is also essential you pay attention to the position of the flippers as they can make or break your picture.
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UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY When using strobes, I found that slightly crossing flashguns maximize the amount of light on your subject and minimize lighting the surrounding reef helping the turtle to stand out. And as I mentioned early be very careful not to burn the bright turtle belly with your strobes, be prepared to reduce the power output of your strobes.
Turtles help themselves to shoot beautiful silhouettes. When attempting one ensure the flippers are in a pleasant position
BEHAVIOURS TO LOOK FOR
Feeding: Some sites are excellent to photograph turtles feeding. Hawksbill turtles feed on soft coral and usually ignore what is going on around them giving you great opportunities for close up shots. Green turtles can be seen feeding on seagrass. These areas tend to be very sandy so be aware of particles in the water column as this will cause backscatter. Marsa Shona, in the Southern Red Sea, is a dive site I love for the reliable opportunities to shoot this behaviour. Breathing: As with all reptiles, turtles need to come to the surface to breathe. This will give you great opportunities to shoot silhouettes. Resting: Often turtles can be seen sleeping or resting on the reef, approach them carefully not to scare them. Turtle pulling a pose for the camera
WORD OF ADVICE
Remember that turtles are endangered and as a photographer it is our responsibility not to stress them or do anything that may harm them. Always give enough space to the animal to swim away, never trap it. When using strobes, avoid multiple shots that may harm the eyes of the turtle. If possible, take some test shots on a near part of the reef before moving on the turtle. With the travel restrictions in place to fight COVID-19, most dive hotspots around the world have been closed to tourists. Coral reefs and many marine creatures, including turtles, had a unique opportunity to recover from years of constant human presence. Some destinations are starting to welcome divers once again and the lucky ones able to visits these areas have been treated to incredible encounters. So, if you are willing to travel, there is no better time to pack your camera kit and head out to bag some amazing turtle pictures. n
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t’s sunrise, you wake up and get up swiftly. The musty smell of the forest, the salty air from the beach and the birds chirping in the morning create an atmosphere that awakens your senses. There’s an overwhelming uneasiness, tenseness in your being, the uncertainty of whether or not you will be able to see those giants penetrates you. Once at the dock you get on board, the breeze begins to caress your face and your gaze becomes fixed to the horizon. One has to wait, sometimes for hours, before you can encounter one of them, and then suddenly, a blast! A large blow expelling from its blow hole. Your body is paralysed, you’re in awe and magic appears before you. The sound that these giant mammals make when they exhale out of the water is so overpoweringly loud that you can notice how it rumbles in your body. A jet-like trail of three metres expels from its back, forming a shape of a heart, light beams through its path and a splinter of a rainbow appears. A gift from nature. While the boat sails parallel to the course of the whales, fins, mask and snorkel in place, hanging outside the boat, you hold the camera firmly in your hands, waiting for the right moment to jump into the water. It is essential to swim 100 metres away from the boat in order to respect the whales, the giants. As a result, the adrenaline begins to kick in and spread throughout your body. Then you jump into the water. Everything is blue. An intense blue in which the rays of the sun invite you to dance with
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them towards an endless depth. Nonetheless, you must not get caught up by this hypnosis, your arms are absent due to the camera thus you must keep kicking your legs while your heart pumps tirelessly so that you can reach your destination. Their silhouettes appear in the distance and everything is a blur for a moment, until the giants decide to initiate contact and to see what and/or who you are. You become spellbound, captivated with what rests in front of your eyes, and once again time stops before you. Moorea is a South Pacific island, which has a volcanic origin, and is part of French Polynesia. It is characterized by its rugged mountains, its equatorial climate, its sandy beaches lined with palm trees and the cleanest and most-graceful starry skies I have ever seen. On the island you can find several lookouts with striking views, you can do a lot of hiking and visit some of its waterfalls, in addition to visiting its beaches. You can also do a large number of water activities, such as surfing, kite surfing, kayaking, jet skiing or simply taking
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gentle Alvaro Herrero López is left absolutely spellbound after sharing the Pacific waters off Moorea with majestic humpback whales PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALVARO HERRERO LÓPEZ
a boat trip to visit the blacktip sharks and stingrays that reside in the lagoon. Nevertheless, the true secret of Moorea lies beneath its waters. Apart from tropical fish, corals, turtles and sharks, during the months of July to November, humpback whales come to its shores for mating, to give birth and take care of their calves before embarking on their extensive journey to Antarctica. The best way to reach this fantastic island is by flying to Tahiti. After arriving to this destination, you are able to spend the evening and catch a ferry in the morning to the island of Moorea. Here you are able to find several hotels, resorts and villas to settle in. In addition, there are numerous companies available that are able to provide you with the experience of whale watching. Unquestionably, my recommendation is to choose private trips, whereby the group and yourself can have a much more peaceful and private experience in the water with the whales. In this fashion the whales are respected and
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not disturbed within their natural habitat due to the reduction of overcrowding tourists. Tahiti Shark Expeditions is a company with many years of experience and a lot of expertise. Their respectful practices have been operating since 2004 and do not only offer whale trips, but also offer diving trips throughout the year. With respect to the wide-ranging trips offered, the full day trip includes a fantastic menu. The Poisson cru, a typical delicacy from these islands which contributes to local and sustainable fishing, also known as Tahitian salad, similar to the Latin American seafood dish, Ceviche, is made of raw fish that is marinated in citrus juice and coconut milk and accompanied with salad and rice. While you taste this meal in the turquoise waters of the lagoon, you find that your batteries begin to recharge, your eyes fall to the mountains and you find yourself in a harmonious and blissful state. During the months of July to November, the whales that we can observe in Moorea are the humpback whales.
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The sound that these giant mammals make when they exhale out of the water is so overpoweringly loud that you can notice how it rumbles in your body Cruising at the surface
Whale spotting from the beach
Humpback heading back into the deep
Although there is a non-profit organization, OCEANIA (in charge of the study and protection of whales in French Polynesia) which has recorded the first sightings in May. Their scientific name Megaptera novaeangliae meaning ‘the great wings of New England’, refers to the hypertrophy of their pectoral fins and the region where they were first observed and described. The size of this species ranges between 11 to 18 metres. The presence of sexual dimorphism has been observed in humpback whales. In fact, the females (maximum size: 18 metres) are larger than the males (maximum size: 15 metres). They have an average weight between 25 and 35 tons. The humpback whale ranks fifth amongst the great whales. Every two to three years, females give birth to a calf. Newborn calves are around four metres long and weigh between 700kg to one ton. They drink about 300 litres of Humpbacks in the shallows
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milk a day, which means that they will gain about 60kg a day. They will reach sexual maturity between five and ten years. The humpback whale frequently dives in the 50m zone for an average of 15 minutes. In Moorea, the maximum apnea recorded has been 40 minutes. Breathing is an act of mindfulness for cetaceans and each breath renews up to 90 percent of their air. The maximum depth recorded was 616m and was observed in New Caledonia. In regards to migration, the humpback whale arrives from Antarctica (its feeding ground) to give birth, mate, suckle its young or rest. The presence of singing whale males, active groups of whales on the surface, and the observation of mating and newborns attempts confirms that French Polynesia is a breeding ground and nursery for humpback whales in the southern hemisphere. The humpback whale is rather solitary or lives in small groups, between two to four. Frequently they are observed 2km from the coast, thus they develop near the barrier reef
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and sometimes occasionally near the bays. It is quite common in the area to see groups of two, three or even more whales accompanied by herds of pilot whales or dolphins. Their young, who play, interact and communicate with each other offer one of the most wonderful natural shows that I have ever been able to witness. Following the pilot whales, oceanic whitetip sharks wait patiently for their next bite. I have even seen a whale shoo away one of these sharks with its tail, which came too close to a mother and a pilot whale calf. A study conducted by Garland et al. (2011) highlights the notion of ‘horizontal cultural transmission’ in humpback whales, i.e. an individual could transmit cultural information, such as singing, to another whale without being part of its offspring. Thus, in three years, there has been a cultural transmission of a part of the humpback whales’ song from Australia to the whales present in French Polynesia via New Caledonia and then Tonga. In French Polynesia, the song of the whales is unique. It is specific to the region. Ancient genetic isolation, restricted migratory exchanges, and the presence of a unique song are the three proofs that the humpback whales of French Polynesia constitute a distinct breeding population. The sensation of being in the middle of the ocean with these vast, sentient and smart creatures is one of the best gifts that nature can offer you. When one hears the songs emitted from the male whales, a vibration strikes and a tremor moves throughout your entire body. It is as if a song was pulsating inside you and undoubtedly is an unforgettable experience. Suddenly, one of these giants approaches you, they begin to observe you and you can feel their intense gaze travel along the spine of your body. It begins to contemplate and stare and time stops. Something within you roars, and you begin to feel something indescribable. This is the moment when you realise their intellectual capacity and their empathy. A fragment in time where you become conscious of the fact that life has depths that are unfathomable.
Sharks can often be encountered as well Humpback and calf
Moorea topside is stunning
The sensation of being in the middle of the ocean with these vast, sentient and smart creatures is one of the best gifts that nature can offer you 42
However, the existence of these animals is threatened by numerous factors. These factors include hunting, collisions with ships, pollution, plastics, global warming, and so on. Fortunately, OCEANIA identifies these threats and creates conservation strategies in this sanctuary, Moorea, in French Polynesia. This organization studies and protects these cetaceans in the area via observation, recording behaviour and perform population estimation via the use of photographic identification. In addition, they work with ferry companies within the area to avoid collisions. One of the association’s flagship projects is called Vigie Sanctuaire, a scientific programme in French Polynesia that aims to limit the risk of collisions between humpback whales and high-speed boats on the Tahiti Moorea route. In three years, more than 300 of these collisions have been avoided thanks to the collaboration between the captains and the association. Undeniably, after many years travelling and diving around the world, Moorea is one of the most magical places I have ever been to. Thus, do not hesitate, pack your suitcase, and come to Moorea! n
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SWIM WITH DWARF MINKE WHALES
The Ribbon Reefs in the far northern Great Barrier Reef is the only place in the world you can swim and snorkel with dwarf minke whales. Coming eye to eye with these amazing marine creatures is one of those life-changing events that makes you realise just how privileged we are to share the ocean with them. Dwarf minkes whales grow up to eight metres in length, weigh several tonnes and are very inquisitive. An average on the Reef interaction consists of two to three whales for around 90 minutes. The largest minke pod seen by operators was 28 whales, the longest encounter ten hours. Research is continuing to define the exact species of the dwarf minke whale that visits the Great Barrier Reef. There are two known species of minke whales, the North Atlantic minke whale and the slightly larger Antarctic minke whale. It is thought that the Great Barrier Reef dwarf minke whale is related to the North Atlantic minke or is an un-named species. When to Dive: June and July.
DIVE WITH THOUSANDS OF TURTLES
400 miles north of Cairns lies Raine Island, the world’s largest green turtle rookery, and this rarely visited island is surrounded by pristine reefs teaming with life – and in nesting season, literally thousands of turtles. Between 40,000 to 100,000 green turtles visit Raine Island each year to lay their eggs in the warm sands. The island is not accessible to the public, but the reefs surrounding it make for excellent diving, some of the prettiest coral formations on the Reef, pastel hues running in straight waves, or ribbons along the reef. When to Dive: November.
unrecognisable being covered from bow to stern in vibrant hard and soft corals. Hovering in clouds around the structure, are huge schools of batfish, barracuda, Jacks and giant trevally. Reef fish such as fusilier, basslets and snapper dart over the coral while giant Queensland grouper, turtles, reef sharks and turtles glide around you. It’s especially famous for its large population of olive sea snakes, and out in the blue, listen out for the whale song pilot whales and migrating humpbacks. When to Dive: Year-round. Humpback season May to September, Mantas from August through summer.
DIVE WITH MANTAS AT LADY ELLIOT ISLAND SHARK FEEDING FRENZY ON OSPREY
One of the highlights of diving Osprey Reef is the large population of reef sharks at North Horn. Watching them in a controlled shark feed is one of the highlights of a Coral Sea liveaboard trip with Mike Ball Dive Expeditions and Spirit of Freedom. The experience usually attracts between ten and 30 grey reef, whitetip reef, silvertip sharks, as well as a lot of other opportunistic fish such as potato cods. On Mike Ball’s trips, photographers looking for that prize-winning shot have the option to pay a small surcharge for a private shark shoot dive with limited numbers of divers, ensuring clear view and up-close photos. When to Dive: Year round, with cooler, clear water over the winter months.
THE YONGALA
The wreck of the Yongala is one of the most-exciting dives in the world. It perished in a Category 5 cyclone over 100 years ago and in its final resting place, just south of Townsville, it has attracted an incredible amount of marine life. Recognised as one of world’s best historic wreck dive sites, this 111-metre wreck lies on its starboard side in 30m of water. Being literally in the middle of nowhere, it has attracted an incredible amount of marine life. The ship itself almost
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Lady Elliot Island, located at the southern tip of the Great Barrier Reef, is famous for its large population of mantas, with over 700 individuals identified here by scientists. The Island has been the focus of intensive scientific research aiming to uncover various aspects of their secret lives, including their complex mating rituals. Manta rays exhibit fascinating mating behaviour which can be observed at Lady Elliot Island during mating season over the winter months. A female ready to mate will be followed by several males, all trying to match her every move, behavior now referred to as a ‘courtship train’ which has been observed to last for several days. During this time, the female will test the males by disrupting the train and checking which male is best at getting back into formation. Once she has chosen one male, the female will present her belly to the male. The male will then approach ‘belly-to-belly’ and hold onto the female’s left pectoral fin using his mouth, for the final act of copulation, which takes a few seconds. When to Dive: Mid-May to Mid-August for peak manta action. Find out more about the Great Barrier Reef at Diveplanit.com. Email us on enquire@diveplanit.com or call us on 1800 607 913 or (07) 4039 0200 to talk to our team of travel experts about your next Great Barrier Reef expedition. n
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T Nicolas and Lena Remy head into the Sudanese Red Sea to explore the remnants of Cousteau’s Precontinent II experiment, the Umbria shipwreck, and go in search of hammerheads PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICOLAS AND LENA REMY/ WWW.NICOLASLENAREMY.COM
he Egyptian Red Sea holds some of the world’s most-dived and photographed coral reefs and wrecks. Many divers would instantly recognize photos of the motorbikes inside the SS Thistlegorm, the shape of the Giannis D cargo ship, and some photographers affectionally name the colour of the water you get there ‘Red Sea blue’. This has to do with the ease and affordability of travel there. Egypt has long been a very touristic destination (think pyramids, romantic cruise on the Nile river…), no wonder they have been very good at welcoming another type of tourists - scuba divers. Inevitably, with so many divers visiting, the reefs closest to shore aren’t as pristine as they once were, and in general, I had been hearing ‘Egypt nowadays isn’t as good diving as 30 years back’. I had also heard ‘but if you are able to travel to Sudan, you will see what Egyptian diving used to be like!’. Extra research taught me that Sudan was great for spotting hammerheads, that the relics of Cousteau’s Précontinent II experiment could be visited by divers in the Sudanese Red Sea, and that the Umbria, one of the most-interesting wrecks to dive worldwide, was only a few miles away from Port Sudan. Needless to say, Sudan was high on my diving bucket list, and thankfully there are now a select few liveaboards which sail these rich waters. We started our cruise with some relaxed yet fascinating diving at Sha’ab Rumi reef, 35km away from our departure port (Port Sudan). This is the
The vibrant Sudanese reef life is supposed to resemble what Egypt was like 30 years ago
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very place where the inventor of scuba regulators, Jacques Cousteau, submerged several scientific habitats and tools at various depths, creating a mini ‘underwater village’ to support the Précontinent II experiment in 1963. On the sandy plateau at 10m, Cousteau had installed a habitat called ‘the Starfish’, which slept five scientists for a month, featuring a living room and command centre, as well as four bedrooms and laboratories. Nearby there were the ‘Urchin’ (a garage, for the exploration submarine Denise), as well as a hangar to store tools and underwater scooters. Deeper down the reef, another plateau at 30m hosted the second human habitat, which housed two scientists for a week. Most of the village was removed at the end of the experiment, but fortunately a few relics can still be found - the ‘Urchin’ and underwater scooter hangar on the 10m plateau, as well as some shark cages deeper on the reef. Being able to dive this pioneer exploration of the underwater world was definitely a highlight. The ‘Urchin’ can be penetrated by divers and is in good shape, offering good photographic opportunities. Overall, the surrounding reef was very pleasant to dive too, and this part of Sha’ab Rumi was protected from currents. After these emotion-filled, historical dives, we went on to visit several reefs, with a focus on enjoying Sudan’s abundant marine life and especially… finding hammerheads. Being further south than Egypt, it is worth noting that the Red Sea off the Sudanese coast is also warmer. Mid-May, the
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New Zealand is famous for its stunning landscapes, rugby and The Lord of the Rings. However, the world beneath the surface of this rich and diverse country is every bit as spectacular as anything that J.R.R. Tolkien could imagine
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rom the eerie stillness of Milford Sound to the worldrenowned Poor Knights, the diving experiences on offer are plentiful and varied. There are wrecks galore, including the infamous Rainbow Warrior and the huge Mikhail Lermontov. Animal encounters with seals, sharks, dolphins and a wide variety of unique sea creatures are commonplace, not to mention kelp forests, rugged coastlines and inspiring topography.
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITED AT THE END OF THE ARTICLE
BAY OF ISLANDS
The wrecks of the Rainbow Warrior and the HMNZS Canterbury are not the only reasons to dive in the bay of islands, but they are perhaps the main drawcards. The Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior is in the Cavalli Islands. Originally sunk in Auckland harbour in 1985 by the French government, it was refloated, cleaned up and then resunk in 1987 as a memorial and dive site. Covered in jewel anemones and sponges and filled with fish life, it is now a world-class dive with a story like no other. The ex HMNZS Canterbury is located in the Deep-Water Cove reserve, in the Bay of Islands. This Leander-class frigate was purpose-sunk in 2007 by divers for diving. It ranges in depth from 14m-36m, so suits a wide range of experience in divers. The Bay of Islands also has a vast number of reef sites to dive, ranging from shallow protected reefs to deep walls, caves and archways. It’s well worth spending a few days in this area exploring. Paihia Dive (www.divenz.com) offer diving trips to the spectacular Rainbow Warrior and HMNZS Canterbury and the stunning local reefs.
BYRON A YB It may be the winter months, but as Simone Caprodossi explains, there are plenty of reasons to get in the water, including some cool diving at Julian Rocks PHOTOGRAPHS BY SIMONE CAPRODOSSI
Deeper down the reef, another plateau at 30m hosted the second human habitat, which housed two scientists for a week
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On a good day, you could just lay motionless at 15m for a whole dive and watch a train of grey nurse sharks swim past you non stop until 45 minutes have past and it’s time to get out
Winter diving yron Bay is synonym with surfing and chilled beach life, but not everyone knows that under its waters lies one of the best dive sites in the world. Julian Rocks, a volcanic island just a few minutes by boat from Byron Bay’s main beach, was established as a marine reserve in 1982 and, thanks to the over-35 years of protected status, it is surrounded by thriving marine life. It recently made it to the National Geographic list of the top 20 dives sites in the world and was named among the top three snorkelling spots in Australia. Just off the most-easterly point of Australia, Julian Rocks has dramatic seasonal changes, with water temperatures ranging from 18-20 degrees C in Winter up to 26-27 degrees C in the peak of Summer. This creates a unique level of biodiversity year round, with over a thousand cold and warm water species found at the site. Summer diving is extremely popular, as Byron Bay gets packed with tourists and divers enjoying the lovely weather, gorgeous beaches and warm water. Julian Rocks thrives with marine life, featuring one of the largest aggregations of leopard sharks in the world, and frequent visits from iconic warm water species like manta rays.
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lying into Roatan off the coast of Honduras, the reasoning behind the name of the country becomes clear. Honduras means ‘the depths’ in Spanish, and there is deep blue water everywhere you look. Roatan and the other Bay Islands of Guanaja and Utila are part of Honduras and less than an hour from the mainland. Roatan, once the territory of Spanish conquistadors and pirates, sits on the southernmost point of the second largest barrier reef in the world. These extensive reef systems draw in divers from all across the globe, and the islands are bustling with dive activity. After organizing gear and getting a good night’s sleep on board the Roatan Aggressor, we made our first dive off Roatan’s far western point at a location called Eel Reef. Upon arrival at the site, I was surprised to observe a platform surrounded by several small boats. The Honduran flag was flying above the few people who were clearly preparing for an event. When I asked about what was taking place, I learned it was the Freediving World Championship. Teams and individuals from five continents were on this small island to participate in a sport that pushes the limits of the human body. I cannot imagine what it would be like to freedive to depths over 100m without fins and hold my breath for over four minutes. There is nothing like the
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thought of that to make me feel grateful to have a tank of air on my back and scuba gear at the ready. It made me smile to know that I would be able to take my time to truly soak in the reef scenes and marine life below.
WALLS, WRECKS AND REEFS Depending on the weather conditions, the Roatan Aggressor’s itinerary includes well-known sites around the island of Roatan, and then crosses to Utila, Cayos Cochinos and an extraordinary seamount just off this small island. Over the two weeks I was aboard the boat, we dodged two big bullets – Hurricanes Harvey and Irma. The weather was still respectable
Michele Westmorland was captivated by the underwater delights around Roatan, in the Bay Islands of Honduras
The oceans in Kaikoura are full of a huge range of incredible marine life. Huge whales, dolphins, seals, stingrays, octopus, crayfish and many more
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ndonesia is well known for some of the best ocean diving in the world. I know, I have been fortunate enough to log numerous dives from East to West. But in Southeast Sulawesi, this little cave diver had her experience of a lifetime, searching for caves in dense jungle, swampy mosquito ponds, and inside local villages. Equipped with the absolute A-team as dive buddies and surface interval entertainment, it was hard, sweaty work, but worth every second! Over the years, I have spent much time cave diving in Florida and Mexico. All my training has been done in these caves that, between the two countries, are diverse and challenging in their own ways. Once my initial cave training was concluded, I had the pleasure of joining my husband Rasmus Dysted when he was travelling with his groups of cave diving students. And when we went for our own private ‘leisure trips’, I had the joy of joining shorter expeditions, scouting for new caves in the jungles of Mexico. I loved every dive, and every challenge the caves would hand me. And then, after eight years as a smitten cave diver, the ultimate challenge presented itself - a cave exploration expedition in Southeast Sulawesi. It all started when a Malaysian friend invited us to come cave diving with him in Indonesia. Neither Rasmus or I had heard of any cave diving worth travelling for in Indo, but we were assured that they were ‘highly decorated, but yet, still vastly unexplored’. He said this casually, almost apologetically. It didn’t take long before we were in contact with the instructor of our Malaysian friend, who was indeed cave diving on mainland Sulawesi and out on the island of Wakatobi. It turned out that Robin Cuesta, a French dive instructor and cave explorer, had been setting up his base on Wakatobi, and sporadically over the last few years, explored a vast number of caves that were found in the apparent area.
MEETS
Downbelow Marine & Wildlife Adventures’ Joanne Swann explores the waters of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park in Sabah, Borneo, handily located close to the capital Kota Kinabalu
ABOUT THE DIVE SITES
A crack team of cave divers embarks on an epic adventure to seek out the cave systems beneath Sulawesi in Indonesia, but as Maria Bollerup explains, just getting to the potential caves was an experience in itself PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETE MESLEY, RASMUS DYSTED AND MARIA BOLLERUP
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reef
PHOTOGRAPHS BY RICHARD SWANN / WWW.DOWNBELOWADVENTURES.COM
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ess than two minutes after take off from Kota Kinabalu International Airport in Sabah, the plane makes a sharp left-hand turn and the wing dips to reveal a bird’s eye view of Gaya Island and the surrounding sloping coral reefs of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. The occasional small speedboat can be seen transferring island day trippers and scuba divers between the five tropical islands. Vibrant green jungle rainforest meets brilliant turquoise water - it’s quite a sight and I can’t wait to return. There are not many places in the world that offer a bustling city full of modern facilities and then right on the doorstep, just ten minutes by speedboat from the central entertainment district, a stunning tropical marine paradise with 50 dive sites to choose from. Sabah’s capital, Kota Kinabalu, is such a place, and the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, locally known as the TARP, offers some excellent scuba diving year round.
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Named after Malaysia’s first Prime Minister, covering an area of 50km², the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park was gazetted as a national park in 1974. Consequently, the area’s fauna, flora and marine eco-systems enjoy the protection of the government appointed body, Sabah Parks. Five islands make up the landmass with Gaya Island the largest and arguably the most interesting. Site of the British North Borneo company harbour and razed by the rebel Mat Salleh in 1881, nowadays the 15 square km island is mainly uninhabited other than the eastern shore, which is home to a community of stilt villagers. For the past 12 years, our PADI five-star IDC Career Development Centre Downbelow Marine and Wildlife Adventures has been based here as the only operator. Abundant wildlife thrives on the island, including the endemic proboscis monkey, macaques, hornbills, wild boars, snakes, lizards and many other tropical birds and insects.
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The remarkable biodiversity of Borneo’s flora and fauna is visible above and below water. Dive sites within the park offer some great scuba diving for beginners and experienced divers alike. Inner and outer coral reefs slope to 30m depths, while mangrove areas and sand flats provide lots of opportunity for macro enthusiasts and underwater photographers. The park is also ideal for conducting PADI dive courses of all levels from beginner to professional qualifications. With a good amount of local divers, there is a great vibe around diving, but it’s not too busy. We’re often the only dive boat on a dive site, and our guide-to-diver ratios are four divers per group.
THE INNER REEFS
Sheltered from the prevailing northeast or southwest winds, the inner reefs offer year-round diving and are a haven for macro critters. Nudibranchs are very common with many rare and varied species regularly encountered. Seahorses, ghost pipefish, frogfish, flounders, stargazers, mandarinfish, moray eels, lionfish, and many crustacean species are among the usual suspects and divers can frequently interact with
cephalopods as they slowly pulse along the reef. Although referred to as ‘muck diving’, many of these sites are in fact very pretty, with visibility ranging from eight to 20 metres. Mid Reef is a great example. Situated in the centre of all the islands, this independent reef was probably once an island of its own. The shallow top reef, only 4m at low tide, is relatively barren with a handful of artificial coral blocks. On the eastern side the slope descends to 20m and meets the remains of a small fishing wreck. Fish schools gather around the debris which attracts a variety of critters such as stonefish, scorpionfish and lionfish. Shrimps and crustaceans are plentiful. Moving away from the wreck and following the reef slope divers can find stick pipefish, spotted stingrays and an array of creatures confident in their cryptic ability. A few minutes swim away and a wonderful section of shallow reef begins; layers of acropora coral bathed in filtered sunshine form a beautiful reef area at 12m. Here seahorses, cockatoo waspfish, razor fishes, moray eels, yellow-lipped banded sea krait and swaying anemones with their clownfish are often found. Surrounded by this beauty, it’s a challenge to end the safety stop and return to topside reality.
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NEWS • HINTS AND ADVICE • IN-DEPTH TRAVEL • INTERVIEWS • GEAR • PHOTOGRAPHY
WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU/TRIAL
Recognizing the uniqueness of the underwater habitat, the Piopiotahi / Milford Sound marine reserve was established in 1993, was one of the first reserves in Fiordland and covers an area of 690 hectares along the northern side of the Milford Sound
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magine diving in a place that has the power to bring out a feeling of great awe, a place that challenges your fears, a place that makes you feel very small and yet makes you feel like the luckiest human on earth. A place that seems like you have entered a fairytale, where dolphins jump under rainbow-producing waterfalls. A place where you get lost in the beauty of observing nature in its most raw, powerful and mighty state. Located in the southwest corner of New Zealand’s South Island, Milford Sound is proclaimed as the ‘eighth wonder of the world’ and with its majestic features like the loftiest seacliffs, the strikingly shaped Mitre Peak that rises straight from the water’s edge to 1,683 metres, and its several spectacular waterfalls surrounded by densely covered native forest, this is no coincidence. The first visitors to Milford Sound were Maori over 1,000 years ago. To them, Milford Sound was a sacred place and tribes would trek to Milford Sound over massive mountain passes to go hunting and collecting precious
Simone McKirdy takes us on a tour of the ‘eighth wonder of the world’, a fantastical area of New Zealand that offers outstanding scenery above and below the waterline PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY
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pounamu, New Zealand greenstone. The Maori name for Milford Sound is Piopiotahi, which translates to ‘one single piopio’. A piopio, a bird now extinct, was seen flying over a Maori hero who died trying to give his people immortality. The name Milford Sound was given by Captain and sealer John Grono in 1812, the first European settler to the area, who named it after Milford Haven, a place in Wales. Access to the fiord was only by foot up until 1954, when the Homer Tunnel opened, allowing road access to Milford Sound. Milford Sound is now one of New Zealand’s most-famous destinations due to the sheer scale and beauty of nature. Underneath the mountains, below the waterline, the steep wall diving reflects the extremes of the surface, with walls seemingly descending into the dark abyss below. Divers are challenged to break through a dark veil that parts the two worlds in order that the beauty below is revealed. A band of murky freshwater sits on top of the clear ocean water that the diver has to descend through to get to the clear ocean water underneath - a challenging feeling for those that are unfamiliar with the place, but the rewards are great once you descend through a couple of metres of this murky, oily looking tea-coloured freshwater. After the descent through this layer, divers get rewarded with clear blue ocean water teeming with life. The freshwater pours into the fiord through its many spectacular waterfalls and
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a very high rainfall of up to seven to nine metres annually, making it one of the wettest places on Earth. As the water travels through the densely covered rainforest, it absorbs tannins from the forest floor, which stains the water to the colour of tea, acts as a light blocker, and animals that normally inhabit deeper, darker waters can live in Milford Sound in much shallower depths. This phenomenon is called ‘deep-water emergence’. The most well-known species that make Milford Sound diving unique is black coral. Fiordland has one of the world’s largest populations of black coral trees (about seven million colonies) with some of them up to 300 years old. Normally they live between 200m-1,000m deep, where in Milford Sound they can be found as shallow as 8m deep. Despite their name the trees are actually white, only the skeleton is black, however the trees appear white as they are covered by a thin layer of pale living tissue that connects millions of tiny individual white polyps of only 1mm in size. The same theory counts for red coral, a protected species, that is actually a hydrocoral made up of separate individuals, each with its own feeding and defence system. Usually hydrocorals grow only in the deep ocean, but in Milford Sound they can be observed from depths of 15m. Another special group of creatures found in the fiords are the brachiopods, or lamp shells, clam-like animals that are sometimes called ‘living fossils’, as they are among the oldest groups of hardshelled organisms, dating back more than 500 million years. Many other animals and organisms call Milford Sound home, there are the ever-present butterfly perch, that love the shelter which the black coral trees supply among spiny dog sharks, carpet sharks, wrasse, blue cod, jock stewarts, tarakihi, octopus, crayfish, eels, spiny seadragons, seahorses, tubeworms, sponges and sea squirts, just to name a few.
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Barefoot luxury in the heart of Indonesia
Bunaken National Marine Park I had a fantastic time at Siladen Resort. The resort itself is a quiet and idyllic oasis, the food was outstanding, but it’s the fishes that will have me coming back. The dive crew were some of the friendliest folk I have met. Always smiling, and so happy. I can’t wait to dive there again. Dr. Richard Smith
w w w.s i l a d e n.c o m
Black coral trees can be found at shallow depths
The New Zealand fur seal inhabits Milford Sound and are often playful and curious to see where the diver’s bubbles come from Looking close at the wall or on the coral trees you might spot nudibranchs in vivid colours and various species of seastars like featherstars, buiscuit stars, brittle stars, snakestars, and eleven-armed starfish. The New Zealand fur seal inhabits Milford Sound and are often playful and curious to see where the diver’s bubbles come from. Bottlenose dolphins are regular visitors to the fiord and so are the rare Fiordland crested penguins, which can be observed on the shores of the Sound. Recognizing the uniqueness of the underwater habitat, the Piopiotahi / Milford Sound marine reserve was established in 1993, was one of the first reserves in Fiordland and covers an area of 690 hectares along the northern side of the Milford Sound. Dive sites vary from inner Fiord to outer Fiord sites. Inner Fiord sites generally have a thicker freshwater layer and are home mainly to deep-water species. Outer Fiord dive sites and dive sites around the entrance bring both open ocean species and inner Fiord deep water species together in an amazing display of variety. Most dive sites are steep, advanced wall diving sites, with walls that plummet to 200m easily. A few shallow reefs provide good starting points to work towards the steep rock walls. Descend Scuba Diving offers regular dive tours in Milford Sound. With depth exceeding 300m, Milford Sound is an ideal technical diving spot, with interesting deep-water species out of the recreational range and coral colonies extremely unique to this area of the world. Descend offers technical diving training and support, including twin tank, sidemount, sling, mixed gases and rebreather training and support.
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Diving through the murk layer in the Fiord
Milford Sound is perfect for tech diving
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The local dive tour day starts at the Deepwater Basin boat ramp in Milford Sound, where suits are donned and the boat cruise starts. Dive tours include a scenic cruise of Milford Sound all the way to the Tasman Sea. Several scenic sites, waterfalls and wildlife are explored for a closer look. Given time and if conditions allow, divers have the chance explore Bridal Veil Falls, a waterfall on a piece of land in the middle of the Fiord that provides the most-scenic background for a peaceful break before heading to dive site number two. Diving is good all year round, with different seasons bringing different species, however the dive operating season focuses mainly from October to April. Spring months bring the chance to see Tawaki, the Fiordland crested penguin and a chance to see migrating humpback whales. Summer months boast plenty of fish life and with water warming up in December, sightings of pelagic species such as kingfish, eagle and stingrays increase. Autumn diving brings calm conditions with warm water, and most species can be seen in and around the Fiords. The later winter months bring calm days and good diving also.
DESCEND SCUBA DIVING MILFORD SOUND Tel: 0064 (0)27 3372363 | Email: info@descend.co.nz www.descend.co.nz
Bridal Veil Falls
Black coral adorned with mermaid’s purses
It might be cold water, but expect plenty of vibrant colours
Divers are challenged to break through a dark veil that parts the two worlds in order that the beauty below is revealed 50
The Fiord operates in a continuous cycle of rain and sunny days. The freshwater layer varies according to rain levels and is thicker directly after heavy rain and then thins out until the next rainy day. On average, the freshwater layer is about 1-3m thick. The only accommodation in Milford Sound is the Milford Sound Lodge, which offers luxurious chalets and tranquil forest campervan sites. The closest town is Te Anau, which can also be used as a base for accommodation. The town offers supermarkets and restaurants. The travel time from Te Anau is two hours. The nearest airport is either Queenstown (four-hour drive) or Invercargill (four-hour drive). n
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USING THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY TO SOLVE WRECK MYSTERIES BY MIKE HAIGH, PROJECT DIRECTOR, WRECK HUNTERS
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utting-edge underwater technology can help solve the mysteries of wrecks which have lain buried on the seabed for centuries. This is why the Wreck Hunters project is set to deploy a range of sophisticated equipment for its pioneering course on Diving Archaeology, based in the warm waters of Utila in the Caribbean. Among the prized pieces of technology is one of the most-powerful underwater metal detectors on the market, designed and engineered by the British specialists Aquascan. Its Aquapulse 1B can detect objects at distances up to three metres and will be available to divers on the course in Utila to help uncover parts of the 18th century wreck of The Oliver, which the original Operation Fathom failed to find some 50 years ago. I’ve returned to the island numerous times since my first visit and my plan is to make The Oliver the site of a modern-day, multi-faceted Diving Archaeology course. I’m also investing in the use of compact video and stills cameras to help survey the site and to generate important visual records of The Oliver, and help answer the many questions about the wreck - Where was she built? How was she built? What was she carrying? What was her destination? Who were the crew members and what happened? Wreck Hunters gets underway with Season One in the summer of 2021 (COVID-19 restrictions permitting), when the groundwork for the course-proper will be carried out; followed by the full course in Season Two in 2022. It’s open to divers with PADI Advanced Open Water, or equivalent (See website for full details: www. wreckhunters.co.uk) Over the coming months, I’ll be keeping readers updated on the project with a series of articles in Scuba Diver Magazine ANZ. In these, I will be taking you thorough some of the complex techniques diving archaeologists use to
© Aquascan
overcome the challenges they face, a sort of ‘how-to’ guide in Diving Archaeology. Many of the examples will be drawn from my own personal experiences on projects that I have been involved in over the years; some others from non-archaeological projects I was involved in as a ‘working diver’. Where possible, l will link them to subjects we will cover on the Wreck Hunters course. I aim to cover a lot of ground in my columns, but I will start with a disclaimer. Some of the techniques covered will be quite complex, many require a risk assessment and should not be attempted without prior training. Here are some of the topics and techniques we will visit: • Methods of locating an ancient wreck sites from swim line searches through to metal detector surveys and remote methods. • The survey of a site from laying a grid to the use of photomosaics to record visible structures. • The process of excavation including the use of underwater power tools to remove debris and the various methods of recovering artefacts. • In connection with the above looking at safe working practices and the use of devices such a as ‘the underwater telephone booth’. The idea is to whet your appetite so that you will want to become more involved with this subject and seek out further instruction; either through our course, or with one of the other agencies that offer guidance in this area. The hope would be that if you and your diving friends, having taken appropriate training, stumble upon something of interest underwater you could do at least a good initial investigation. Next time we will look at the recovery of large objects from an underwater site, including both robust and fragile items. Until then, I wish you all enjoyable and safe diving. n
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What’s New
XDEEP SIGNATURE HOODIE
The xDeep Signature Hoodie is now available in black and grey versions, both made in the EU using 100 percent premium cotton and equipped with strong metal zippers. www.xdeep.eu
HOLLIS F1 LT Combining lightweight construction with purpose-driven design, the Hollis F1 LT Fin is a superlative option for tackling tight, confined dives where every kick counts. The lightweight SEBS compound is moulded into a vented design for hydrodynamic kicking that offers tons of efficiency per square inch. A rigid, yet lightweight flex ups the efficiency and extends the amount of power and thrust per kick, meaning you save energy and can dive longer without becoming fatigued. In addition, the short-bladed design is engineered specifically for tight, technical dives where you could otherwise be bumping into obstructions, wreck walls or narrow cavern walls. And because they’re crafted for the deepest, darkest spaces, the F1 LT comes in a variety of colours – including these new white and bright yellow versions - that’ll stand out to your diving partner in low-light and silty conditions. Plus, easy-to-use spring heel straps with an easy-grip heel tab make the F1 LTs exceptionally easy to don and doff, especially in turbulent waters boatside or in roiling, chaotic surf. Available in a variety of sizes, the F1 LT’s tight, light construction makes them perfect for travel or carrying in a satchel to your favourite shore dive, cenote or forgotten reef. www.hollis.com 52
FOURTH ELEMENT ARCTIC HOODIE
With a casual style, backed up by outstanding thermal protection and tested in some of the most-extreme conditions on the planet, the Arctic Hoodie is technology disguised as everyday clothing. The two-layer construction with the Arctic’s wind-resistant outer and high-density fleece inner, create the perfect garment for colder temperatures. Layer it with a waterproof jacket and the Arctic hoodie can take you from the street to the dive site without missing a beat, even if that dive site is at the edge of an ice-floe. Machine washable and warm even when wet, this hoodie is ready for anything. www.fourthelement.com
PRINTED FACE COVERS
With the need to wear face masks when visiting shops, etc, in these COVID-19 pandemic times, the distribution team behind Miflex Hoses, KUBI DryGloves, Thermalution and Best Divers, among others, have brought out some face coverings that leave people in no doubt what your hobby is. You can choose from ‘I’d rather be diving’, with a diver’s face and regulator second stage, and ‘I’d rather be exploring’, which a diver’s face and CCR mouthpiece. The face coverings come in two sizes, and are made from three-ply polyester with a cotton inner, with black elastic straps which come with adjustable strap locks for resizing. www.miflexhoseshop.co.uk WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
THERMALUTION YELLOW GRADE 2.0
BEST DIVERS TANU KNIFE
The Thermalution heated vest is back – and its better than ever. The Yellow Grade 2.0 sees some significant differences over the Yellow Grade Plus, namely thinner and lighter rechargeable batteries, which offer the same performance, and adjustable battery pockets. It is made from 1mm neoprene for the ultimate in comfort, and with a side zipper, it is easier than ever to take off. As with previous Thermalution heated vests, the Yellow Grade 2.0 can be used wet or dry, so you can use this for warming yourself up in your drysuit, but also adding core temperature when you are in your wetsuit. The vest is depth-rated to 100m, and features three temperature levels, offering between 180-240 minutes of use. www.thermalution.com
MARES DUAL ADJUST 62X
The Dual Adj second stage has been a popular regulator for Mares, and now it has an improved control for adjusting the cracking resistance. As before, it is made from ultra-light technopolymer, has a Superflex braided hose, oversized purge button and benefits from Mares’ pneumatically assisted design to aid with the breathe. The big difference in this set is the first stage. The brandnew 62x has pre-oriented low-pressure and high-pressure ports, has the AST ‘dry’ system to prevent water ingress, and is all-metal, with a neat pearl-chrome finish. It is a lightweight, compact diaphragm first stage, which can also be equipped with a twin-balanced seal for cold-water use (this needs to be done by a Mares technician). www.mares.com WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
The Best Divers Tanu knife is available in grey or lime, complete with a plastic sheath and a stainless steel blade, and then in the same colour schemes but with the addition of a BCD adapter plate. www.bestdivers.it 53
THIS ISSUE: MASKS OVER AUD $140 Each month, the SCUBA DIVER test team assembles to rate and review a selection of dive equipment from a range of manufacturers. Products are split into price categories and are then evaluated for performance, comfort, ease of use, build quality, looks and value for money. The Test Team comprises Editor in Chief Mark Evans and a squad of volunteers, whose dive experience ranges from a couple of hundred dives to well over 6,000.
MASKS OVER AUD$140 Masks are a vital piece of your diving gear arsenal, as without one, you are not going to be seeing much underwater! A well-fitting mask will make all the difference to how relaxed you are underwater, as dealing with constant leaks, etc, is just frustrating and can take your mind off far more important issues. However, masks are a very personal piece of diving equipment, and finding one which suits your face is the goal of all divers. These eight masks were looked at for fit, comfort, ease of clearing, range of vision, and price, and in this cost bracket, you are starting to see lens coatings, different straps, etc.
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ON TEST THIS MONTH: • APEKS VX1 • ATOMIC AQUATICS SUBFRAME • AQUA LUNG MISTIQUE • BEUCHAT MAXLUX S • MARES PURE WIRE • SCUBAPRO D-MASK • XDEEP FRAMELESS
• ZEAGLE MONO SCOPE Location: Tested at Moreton Hall
www.moretonhall.org
Date tested: 19/10/20 Water temp: 30 degrees C
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APEKS VX1 | SRP: AUD $150 Apeks have earned a solid reputation in the diving industry for their world-class regulators, and have cemented their appeal by releasing quality wings and robust fins. They rounded out their offerings with the VX1 mask, which has garnered plenty of accolades since it was launched a couple of years ago. The VX1 is a frameless mask, and it is available in white, black and a cool gun-metal grey colour. The frameless design makes the VX1 quite low profile, which in turn makes it easy to clear from partial and full floods. It also means it can fold flat as a back-up mask. The buckles for the strap, which are mounted on the silicone skirt, have push-button quick-release, which is operable evening wearing thick gloves. The strap itself is silicone and the wide design at the back really cups on to your head to hold it in place. The surgical-grade silicone skirt is a great blend of firm and soft, holding its form where it needs to, but being ultra-comfy on your face. The Pure Clear lens are supposed to ‘provide maximum optical clarity with no distortion’, and I have to say they are indeed. It comes with a neat padded and zippered case. It also includes a spare strap, made from webbing and neoprene. www.apeksdiving.com
CHOICE 2020 GROUP TEST
MASKS
TECH SPECS & VERDICT TYPE: frameless | STRAP: silicone/webbing and neoprene VERDICT: The Apeks VX1 is an extremely comfortable frameless mask, with a crystal-clear lens, a great padded case, and the option of two straps.
SCORE
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ATOMIC AQUATICS SUBFRAME | SRP: AUD $199.99 Atomic Aquatics have always prided themselves on producing high-end dive equipment built to last, and the Subframe mask is no exception. In fact, Atomic are so sure that this mask is all but indestructible that they provide a lifetime warranty against frame breakage! The dual-lens Subframe sees Atomic Aquatics use patent pending technology to have the internal frame molded directly beneath the surface of the silicone rubber skirt. This subframe design provides incredible strength and rigidity as well as eliminating a bulky plastic frame. A stainless-steel insert across the nose holds the lenses in place and adds more strength.This design makes the Subframe quite low profile, and thus easy to clear when you are diving. The soft silicone skirt is very comfortable against your face, and you can be sure to find a good fit as the Subframe comes in regular, medium fit (for narrower faces) and slim fit. Our test mask had Aquatic’s UltraClear lenses, which don’t have the green tint normal tempered glass has, and this provides better clarity and high light transmittance. You can have precision ground optical glass lenses in diopters between -1.0 to -8.0 in .5 diopter increments factory-fitted. www.atomicaquatics.com
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TECH SPECS & VERDICT TYPE: frameless | STRAP: silicone/webbing and neoprene VERDICT: The Apeks VX1 is an extremely comfortable frameless mask, with a crystal-clear lens, a great padded case, and the option of two straps.
SCORE
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AQUA LUNG MISTIQUE DS | SRP: AUD $160 Aqua Lung have always been strong when it comes to masks, and the latest DS range - which comprises the Profile, Horizon and Mistique - continue this trend. We had the Mistique on review. The Mistique has the most-unusual frame shape of the three, and this is designed to give a wide peripheral vision. It does have a slim frame, but thanks to the design, which sees the strap buckles bonded directly on to the silicone skirt, it is still low profile so easy to clear - and it can fold flat for storage as a back-up mask. The soft silicone skirt fits well against your face, and the dualbutton buckles are simple to release and adjust, even with gloves. The wide silicone strap cups the back of your head well to hold the mask securely in-situ. The DS range come with two lens options, the Plus and the Blue HD Mirror lens. Our test had the Plus, and these coatings are designed to block high-energy visible (HEV) light, which can be detrimental to your eyes. However, the downside is that the wearer’s eyes are not so clearly visible, so maybe not a mask for an underwater model. An anti-fog coating also helps keep the lens clear. It comes with a neat padded and zippered case. www.aqualung.com
TECH SPECS & VERDICT TYPE: frame | STRAP: silicone VERDICT: The Aqua Lung Mistique is a very comfortable single-lens mask, with an unusual frame design and an effective lens coating. Not so good for UW models.
SCORE
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BEUCHAT MAXLUX S | SRP: AUD $140 Beuchat is a long-established company which is enjoying a bit of a renaissance in the UK market now that it is being distributed by the Suunto UK team, and the Maxlux S certainly makes a splash. The first thing you notice about the Maxlux, especially in certain colours such as this orange, is that it is BRIGHT! The vivid colour schemes certainly stand out from the crowd and make a nice change from the normal black. For those shrinking violets, a black version is available! The Maxlux S is a frameless mask that is very low profile and easy to clear, and it folds flat for back-up mask situations. The range of vision from the Maxlux S is very good, and it is extremely comfortable on your face thanks to the super-soft silicone skirt. The wide silicone strap fits well on to your head, and the buckles - although they use quite an archaic mechanism - do work fine, though they are not as userfriendly as the push-button systems on other masks. The Maxlux S is available in black, blue, electric blue, grey, orange, pink, raspberry, red, silver and black, and yellow. It is great for UW models as you can clearly see their eyes, and the bright colours add another dimension to photographs. www.beuchat-diving.com
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BEST VALUE 2020 GROUP TEST
MASKS
TECH SPECS & VERDICT TYPE: frameless | STRAP: silicone VERDICT: The Beuchat Maxlux S is an extremely comfortable, low-profile mask, which is easy to clear, offers good vision, and is great for UW models in its bright colours.
SCORE
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AUSTRALIA’S DIVE LIGHT SPECIALISTS DIVEPRO S10
Light up your dive and your dive gear with the DivePro S10 available in four colours FEATURES INCLUDE • Compact design • 1,000 lumens • 90 minute run time • 3 different output levels plus SOS • 2 year warranty
Distributed in Australia by Dive Light Shop. Available online or check here to find your nearest stockist:
www.divelightshop.com.au/pages/stockists Dealership enquiries welcome. Please email info@divelightshop.com.au
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07/12/2020 16:15
Great tuition from beginner through to instructor training for family groups, small groups and one-to-one training. We are a PADI 5-Star IDC centre and offer 18 PADI Specialty course options on our Master Scuba Diver program.
Make an appointment for our personal fitting service, great for anyone wanting to get kitted out with scuba. We specialise in divers under 55kg and over 100kg with options to make you comfortable under water. 40 unique brands to choose from, we fit divers of all sizes.
02 96891389
judith@scubawarehouse.com.au
www.scubawarehouse.com.au 1/50 George Street Clyde, Sydney, NSW 2124
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02/10/2020 14:34
MARES PURE WIRE | SRP: AUD $140 Like Aqua Lung, Mares have always had a strong range of masks, and they are not afraid to try something different, and that is definitely the case with the Pure Wire. The Pure-Wire is an unusual mask in that it blends the tried-and-tested single-lens frameless style with a frame, of sorts. This bi-material frame, which comes in a wide range of colours schemes to complement the skirts, can be easily swapped by the user for a different colour, if they so wish. But it is not all for looks – the frame is designed as such that it provides extra support to the skirt where needed. I have to say, this was one of the most-comfortable masks I had used in a long time. Being a frameless design, it is low profile and easy to clear from partial and full floods, and it can fold flat for storage. The buckles are a bit old-school compared with some of the others here, but they do work okay, just a bit more fiddly with gloves on. The silicone strap comfortably cups the back of your head to hold the mask in place. It might look like it comes in a takeaway container, but this is a plastic-free storage solution – not sure how this would stand up to regular use, though. It is available with clear skirts and black skirts combined with the removeable frame in a wide range of colours. www.mares.com
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TECH SPECS & VERDICT TYPE: frameless | STRAP: silicone VERDICT: The Mares Pure Wire is one of the most-comfortable masks I have used, and it is a neat blend of frameless with a frame, with a progressive storage solution.
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SCUBAPRO D-MASK | SRP: AUD $199 As with Mares and Aqua Lung, Scubapro is another longestablished brand with a good selection of masks over the years. The D-Mask is their top-of-the-line mask, and has some neat features and comes with various accessories. The D-Mask stands out from the crowd thanks to its unusual shape, and it has the smallest lenses here. Thanks to the low-profile, clever design, you still get a wide peripheral view. The skirt is soft and comfy, and I like the ‘grip’ on the nose piece. The elasticated strap, more akin to something you’d see on ski goggles, is very comfortable and really eliminates the need to adjust when swapping from warm to cold water conditions. The D-mask has ‘true colour’ UV protective lenses that deliver a balance of surface protection and underwater clarity, and thanks to this, it doesn’t obscure the eyes if you are taking a photograph of the user. The D-Mask comes in a neat padded zippered case, and has a mount for the Scubapro HUD dive computer included, along with black inserts if you don’t like the blue-fade-to-black - designed to match the D420 regulator - on the mask already. It can come with a black or a clear skirt, in three different sizes for the perfect fit. www.scubapro.com
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TECH SPECS & VERDICT TYPE: frame | STRAP: elasticated VERDICT: The Scubapro D-Mask stands out from the crowd, and is comfy and easy to clear. I love the elasticated strap.
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XDEEP FRAMELESS | SRP: AUD $140 Polish brand xDeep has been making waves in the diving world thanks to their superbly engineered backplate-and-wings, and their mask is also gaining plenty of fans. The xDeep Frameless is, as the name suggests, a frameless mask. It has a very wide single lens, which offers a great peripheral field of view, and it is exceptionally low profile, so very easy to clear from a partial and full flood. However, as I have found with some lowprofile, frameless masks over the years, this one presses on to my forehead. It all depends on your face shape, so don’t write it - or any other frameless mask - off before you try it yourself. The super-soft silicone skirt is very comfortable and moulds well to your face. The push-button buckles for the strap are effective and can be used wearing gloves. As with some other masks here, xDeep utilises Ultra-Clear glass for the lens, so gets rid of that green tinge that standard tempered glass can have. The xDeep frameless comes in black or clear skirt, with the clear version being great for underwater models, as combined with the large lens, you can see much of their face and get some expression from their eyes. www.xdeep.eu
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TECH SPECS & VERDICT TYPE: frameless | STRAP: silicone VERDICT: The xDeep Frameless is extremely low-profile and has a huge lens, so fantastic all-round vision. The clear version is ideal for UW models.
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ZEAGLE SCOPE MONO | SRP: AUD $159 Zeagle are a brand perhaps best known for their robust BCDs and wings, but with the Scope range of masks, they are making inroads in that arena as well. The Scope Mono is a frameless mask that is very reminiscent of the Oceanic Shadow, albeit with a much-wider nose pocket, and that is no bad thing, as the Shadow is a cracking mask. The Scope Mono is very low profile, making it easy to clear, and it offers decent vision all-round. The silicone skirt is actually quite stiff, but it is still very comfortable on your face, and seems to seal well. The big standout of the Scope Mono is the elasticated strap. Attached to the skirt by plastic units - which still allow it to be folded flat for back-up mask storage - the elastic strap is, like the D-Mask, something you’d expect to find on ski goggles. It is very comfortable, doesn’t need adjusting to move from a bare head to a hooded head, and it has grippy rubbery elements on the elastic to make sure it grips your head and stays in place. There is also an elastic snorkel holder. If you want to stand out from the crowd, you can get colour-kits, which add a splash of vibrant colour to the buckle and attachment points. www.zeagle.com
VERDICT Masks are an essential part of a diver’s arsenal, and finding one that fits properly is imperative. All of the masks here put in a good showing, so you would not be disappointed in any of them if they fit your face. Right, to the awards. The Best Value was a tough one, as there were several potentials in the running. The Zeagle Scope Mono, the Beuchat Maxlux S, the xDeep Framless and the Mares Pure Wire were all in the mix. The xDeep just got nudged out due to the fact that the lens pressed on my forehead, and the Zeagle, despite having an awesome strap, just missed out. It became a battle between the Beuchat and the Mares, and it was next to impossible to split them, so we have given them both Best Value. The Choice award was also a close-fought thing. The Scubapro D-Mask, the Apeks VX1 and the Atomic Aquatics Subframe were all in the fight. In the end, the Apeks just won out thanks to its comfort, looks and performance, but the Scubapro and Atomic were snapping at its heels.
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TECH SPECS & VERDICT TYPE: frameless | STRAP: elastic VERDICT: The Zeagle Scope Mono is a comfortable frameless mask that stands out from the norm thanks to its mega elastic strap.
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AUSTRALIA NEW SOUTH WALES
QUEENSLAND
FEET FIRST DIVE
MANTA LODGE AND SCUBA CENTRE
t: 02 4984 2092 e: enquiries@feetfirstdive.com.au a: 97 Stockton St, Nelson Bay, NSW, 2315 SDI/TDI SCUBA, Snorkelling, & Spearfishing Retail & Training Centre. Shore dives in marine sanctuary, grey nurse shark double boat dives. www.feetfirstdive.com.au
t: 07 34098888 e: info@mantalodge.com.au a: 132 Dickson way, Point Lookout, QLD 4183 Amazing diving all year round. Manta Rays, Sharks, turtles and whales along with a huge variety of marine life. www.mantalodge.com.au
LETS GO ADVENTURES t: 02 4981 4331 e: fun@letsgoadventures.com.au a: Shop 8W, d’Albora Marina, Teramby Rd, Nelson Bay, NSW, 2315 PADI facility Introductory dives through to Instructor Courses. Guided shore & boat trips for divers & snorkellers. Retail Sales & Servicing. www.letsgoadventures.com.au
SCUBA HAVEN t: 0407 457 542 e: info@scubahaven.com.au a: 20 Merrigal Rd, Port Macquarie, NSW, 2444 SCUBA Diving Port Macquarie and Laurieton Areas. Offering Dive trips, Courses, Introductory dives, Sales and services. www.scubahaven.com.au
SOUTH WEST ROCKS DIVE CENTRE t: +612 6566 6474 e: info@swrdive.com.au a: 98 Gregory Street, South West Rocks, NSW Australia’s best Shark and Cave dive. Family owned and operated for over 40 Years. swrdive.com.au
WINDANG DIVE & SPEARFISHING t: 02 4296 4215 e: info@windangdive.com.au a: Shop 1, 239 Windang Road, Windang, NSW, 2528 Scuba Diving Courses to Instructor. Spearfishing needs and servicing of all brands of scuba and spearfishing. www.windangdive.com.au
QUEENSLAND BUNDABERG AQUA SCUBA t: 07 4153 5761 e: Julian@aquascuba.com.au a: 17 Walla Street, Bundaberg, QLD, 4670 Bundaberg has world class wreck diving sites, access to the Southern Great Barrier Reef and the best coral reef shore diving in Queensland. www.aquascuba.com.au
LADY ELLIOT ISLAND ECO RESORT t: +61 7 5536 3644 e: reservations@ladyelliot.com.au a: Lady Elliot Island, Southern Great Barrier Reef, QLD Lady Elliot Island ‘Home of the Manta Ray’ boasts 20 incredible dive sites and is renowned for amazing marine encounters. www.ladyelliot.com.au
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WESTERN AUSTRALIA SOUTHCOAST DIVING SUPPLIES t: 08 98417176 e: whale@divealbany.com.au a: 84b Serpentine Road, Albany, Western Australia, 6330 Diving Albany means diving anything from wrecks to reef, plunging drop offs to awesome canyons with unbelievable colours and fishlife. www.divealbany.com.au
OZAQUATEC SCUBA SERVICE CENTRE t: 07 3399 1413 e: admin@ozaquatec.com a: 4/89 Gosport St, Hemmant QLD 4171 Brisbane’s largest SCUBA servicing centre. Servicing all brands of SCUBA gear, Air/Nitrox fills and SAI Global accredited Test Station for all your tank hydro needs. www.ozaquatec.com.au
VICTORIA ALL ABOUT SCUBA
PASSIONS OF PARADISE
t: (03) 9939 4913 e: info@allaboutscuba.com.au a: Unit 17/30-34 Maffra Street, Coolaroo, Victoria, 3048 A fully equipped SCUBA service centre with a passion for servicing so we can safely explore the underwater world! www.allaboutscuba.com.au
t: 07 4041 1600 e: Reservations@passions.com.au a: Reef Fleet Terminal, 1 Spence Street, Cairns, QLD Dive, snorkel and sail the Great Barrier Reef from Cairns onboard a sailing catamaran with locally owned Passions of Paradise. www.passions.com.au
t: 03 9702 3694 e: sales@divegearaustralia.com.au a: 11/53-57 Rimfire Drive, Hallam, Victoria, 3803 DGA is a PADI 5 star training dive store with a huge range of scuba diving, snorkelling and spearfishing gear. www.divegearaustralia.com.au
SCUBA WORLD t: 07 5444 8595 e: info@scubaworld.com.au a: 207 Brisbane Road, Mooloolaba, 4557 QLD, Australia We create safe, comfortable, enthusiastic divers who always have a fun, personal and enjoyable experience at Scuba World. scubaworld.com.au
TASMANIA EAGLEHAWK DIVE CENTRE t: 0417013518 e: info@eaglehawkdive.com.au a: 178 Pirates Bay Drive, Eaglehawk Neck, TAS, 7179 We have world-class temperate water diving, with sites suitable for divers with skill levels from novice to advanced technical. www.eaglehawkdive.com.au
SOUTH AUSTRALIA RODNEY FOX SHARK EXPEDITIONS t: 08 8363 1788 e: expeditions@rodneyfox.com.au a: 107 Henley Beach Road, Mile End, SA, 5031 Great white sharks, SCUBA, Ocean Floor Cage, Surface Cage, Australian Sea Lions and our own wine all on the 32m liveaboard MV Rodney Fox! www.rodneyfox.com.au
DIVE GEAR AUSTRALIA
SCUBA CULTURE PTY LTD t: 03 9808 0033 e: info@scubaculture.com.au a: 117 Highbury Road, Burwood, Victoria 3125 Full service dive shop providing equipment sales, service, hire, training, dive club, dive travel and air/ nitrox fills. www.scubaculture.com.au
WARRNAMBOOL DIVING t: 03 5562 1685 e: scubaone@live.com.au a: 179A Fairy Street, Warrnambool VIC 3280 Warrnambool offer some of the best shore dives along the great ocean road with access to the ship wreck coast. www.divingandfirearms.com.au
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NEW ZEALAND AUKLAND AQUATECH t: +64 2156 3563 e: servicing1@yahoo.com a: 4 WOULDBANK Way, Welcome Bay Aquatech is a scuba service centre. We service scuba regulators / full face masks / oxygen regulators. Underwater Scooters. www.aquatech.kiwi.nz
NORTHLAND SUBAQUA DIVE CENTRE
WAIHEKE DIVE & SNORKEL
t: 09 988 9508 e: subaquadivecentrenz@gmail.com a: 108 Cameron Street, Whangarei, NZ Friendliest dive shop in town. Stocker of Hollis, Ratio Dive computers, Atomic Aquatics, Bare, Oceanic and Zeagle. www.facebook.com/subaquadivewhangarei
t: +64 9217 4892 e: info@waihekedive.com a: 110 Ocean View Road, Oneroa, Waiheke Island, Auckland, NZ, 1081 NZ’s most fun little dive shop! We’re your choice for online retail, diving & snorkeling adventures – just 35 mins from Auckland CBD! www.waihekedive.com
DIVING ACADEMY LTD (AUCKLAND SCUBA) t: +64 9478 2814 e: info@aucklandscuba.co.nz a: 49B Arrenway Drive, Auckland 5* PADI centre, beginner to Instructor courses (student loan approved), quality equipment retail, rebreathers, scooters, dive trips, servicing, air fills. www.aucklandscuba.co.nz
GLOBAL DIVE t: +64 9920 5200 e: info@globaldive.net a: 132 Beaumont Street, Westhaven, Auckland, 1010, New Zealand NZ’s Premium Dive Store. Leaders in Training, Servicing and Travel. Home of Fourth Element, OMS, Shearwater, XDeep, Light&Motion, DUI, Cinebags. www.globaldive.net
WAIKATO
MARLBOROUGH
DIVE ZONE WHITIANGA t: +64 7867 1580 e: info@divethecoromandel.co.nz a: 10 Campbell Street, Whitianga 3510, New Zealand Dive charters, training, service and retail store. Many and varied dive spots. Beautiful coastal town location. Offshore islands & Marine Reserve. www.divezonewhitianga.co.nz
GO DIVE PACIFIC t: 0274 344 874 e: info@godivepacific.nz a: 66 Wellington Street, Picton, Marlborough, New Zealand Dive one of the biggest cruise ship wrecks in the world, the Mikhail Lermontov, suitable for recreational to advanced technical divers. www.godivepacific.co.nz
WELLINGTON
NORTHLAND
DIVE WELLINGTON
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KIWI DIVERS NZ LTD
t: 09 438 1075 e: info@divenow.co.nz a: 41 Clyde St, Whangarei We’re Northland’s largest SCUBA, Spearfishing & Freedive retail store offering great deals on gear along with SCUBA and Freedive courses. www.divenow.co.nz
t: 09 426 9834 e: info@kiwiscubadivers.co.nz a: 8 Keith Hay Court, Silverdale, Auckland, New Zealand Air, Nitrox & Trimix fills. SSI & TDI Rec, Tech & Rebreather courses. 2 dive boats. Brands: Hollis, Oceanic, Zeagle, Atomic, Bare/Stahlsac service centre. www.kiwiscubadivers.co.nz
t: +64 9402 7551 e: info@divenz.com a: 7 Williams Rd, Paihia 0247, New Zealand We run daily trips to the Canterbury wreck, The Rainbow Warrior wreck and reef sites in the Bay of Islands. www.divenz.com
t: 04 939 3483 e: dive@divewellington.co.nz a: 432 The Esplanade Island Bay, Wellington, New Zealand Wellington’s Padi 5 Star Centre, right across the road from Taputeranga Marine Reserve. Come and dive or snorkel with us. www.divewellington.co.nz
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ROTTNEST IS CALLING WHY ROTTNEST ISLAND HAS PLENTY TO OFFER THE VISITING DIVER
GEAR GUIDE: MASKS
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EXPLORING THE REMNANTS OF
THE TEST TEAM RATE AND
WE CHAT TO ADVENTURE IN OMAN MELBOURNE MAGIC TEST REVIEW A RANGE OFTALKING GEAR GUIDE GROUP COUSTEAU’S PRECONTINENT SHARKS ADVENTURES CEO ABOUT STACEY WAXES AGGRESSOR
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Don Silcock waxes lyrical about Papua New Guinea’s underwater delights
Over the
RAINBOW
Exploring New Zealand’s Rainbow Warrior wreck
THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
T HOW TO COMPOSE THE PERFEC HEADS OUT GRAPH STACEY ADRIAN PHOTO DOLPHIN
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New Zealand
ON A DAYBOAT TO THE ICONIC REEF
‣ Q&A: Orkney and Shetland Charters
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EXPLORING NEW ZEALAND’S POOR KNIGHT ISLANDS
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‣ Pete Mesley Q&A, pt II ‣ Sabah, Borneo
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Sharks functionally extinct in 20% of world’s reefs WRITTEN BY KEE FOONG
A
ground-breaking global survey of reef shark populations has found an alarming absence of sharks in nearly 20 percent of the coral reefs surveyed, with about 100 million sharks killed annually for their fins and meat, and one in four shark species threatened with extinction. The five-year study, conducted by the Paul G Allen Family Foundation and led by Florida International University, is the largest and most comprehensive of its kind, covering 371 reefs in 58 countries and territories. More than 15,000 baited remote underwater video systems (BRUVS) were used to record the movements of sharks, rays and other marine life in coral reefs in four key regions – the Western Atlantic, Indian Ocean, Western Pacific, and Central Pacific. No sharks were detected on reefs in six nations (the Dominican Republic, the French West Indies, Kenya, Vietnam, the Windward Dutch Antilles, and Qatar), and 35 out of 58 nations surveyed (60 percent) had half as many sharks as expected. 63 percent of the BRUVS in the survey failed to record the presence of sharks, indicating widespread depletion of reef sharks across much of the world’s tropical oceans. WWF, though not directly involved in the study, sees this as a major wake-up call for governments and conservation organisations worldwide. “Coral reefs are probably the most widely protected type of habitat for sharks globally, but even once common species are disappearing in many of the places surveyed,” says Andy Cornish, Leader of Sharks: Restoring the Balance, WWF and TRAFFIC’s joint shark and ray conservation programme. “This is not a localised problem, but a widespread one.” Overfishing and destructive fishing practices, such as the use of nonselective multispecies gear, including longlines and
© Andy Mann
© Vulcan Inc.
gillnets can be blamed for the shark declines. The study found a correlation between shark depletion and socio-economic conditions such as the size and proximity of the nearest markets, high human population density and poor governance. Meanwhile, countries and territories that are generally well-governed and/or in remote locations, and with strong management of shark fisheries or shark sanctuaries, tended to have the highest abundance of reef sharks, including Australia, the Bahamas, the Federated States of Micronesia, French Polynesia, the Maldives, and the United States. Simon Miller, WWF-Australia’s Sustainable Fisheries Project Manager, says that even where shark numbers were found to be healthy, more can, and still needs to be done. “While Australia performs relatively well in this study, gill net, longline and trawl fisheries continue to put a number of endangered sharks and rays at risk,” he says. The organisation is actively engaging with communities to find a solution, and Miller urges all sectors to get involved. The study highlights a range of measures that can be adopted by governments and regulatory bodies to help maintain and revive shark populations. Key actions it recommends are: restricting non-selective fishing gear such as gillnets or longlines that catch a wide range of species; setting catch limits to control the number of sharks caught; creating large marine protected areas or expanding existing ones; and creating shark sanctuaries where all shark fishing, trade, and retention of shark bycatch is prohibited. WWF’s Andy Cornish is calling for swift uptake of the recommendations to stem the decline: “We must come together and act now to reverse this trend before it’s too late. Governments should urgently implement all the necessary measures to recover shark populations in their waters, and not just on coral reefs. Losing sharks means destroying the delicate ecological balance under water and putting the livelihoods, health, and well-being of people who depend on sharks and coral reefs at risk.” n
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There are many moments like this in the future.
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