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Scuba Diver ANZ #39

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TECH: SWEDEN

TECHNICAL DIVING GURU PHIL SHORT WAXES LYRICAL ABOUT LANGBAN’S MINE

ROWLEY SHOALS

WHY THIS REMOTE DIVE SPOT DEMANDS YOUR ATTENTION

COZUMEL CALLING

MEXICO IS ONE LONGHAUL DESTINATION WORTH LOOKING AT

Cleaning up our

OCEANS FOCUS ON CONSERVATION PROJECTS

THROUGHOUT MALAYSIA

WRECK HUNTER

NELSON’S BAY

MARES HORIZON ISSUE #39



EDITOR IN CHIEF Mark Evans Email: mark.evans@scubadivermag.com DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER Matt Griffiths Email: matt@scubadivermag.com CONTRIBUTORS Nicolas Remy, Deborah Dickson-Smith, Mike Bartick, Phil Short ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIP Ross Arnold Email: ross.arnold@scubadivermag.com

AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND AND SOUTHEAST ASIA TEAM Adrian Stacey Editor-at-Large (Australia and New Zealand) Tel: +61 422 611 238 Email: adrian@scubadivermag.com Don Silcock Senior Travel Editor www.indopacificimages.com

MAGAZINE To stock Scuba Diver in your centre, email: subscriptions@scubadivermag.com

PUBLISHERS Rork Media ANZ Pty Ltd 193 Latrobe Terrace, PADDINGTON, QLD 4064 Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the views of the publishers. Copyright for material published remains with Rork Media Limited. Use of material from Scuba Diver is strictly prohibited unless permission is given. All advertisements of which the creative content is in whole or in part the work of Rork Media Limited remain the copyright of Rork Media Limited. is a registered trademark of Rork Media. ISSN 2515-9593

Times are changing and to keep the magazines free, we’re asking dive stores to cover their own postage costs. If you enjoy reading the magazine, think about helping out your centre with a small donation to help cover their costs. Your continued support is most appreciated.

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The future of travel is starting to look up! With an 80 percent vaccination rate now probable before the end of the year, it now looks likely that international travel will soon be back on the cards. Let’s also hope that domestic travel is also a little easier in the coming months and that a beleaguered tourism and dive industry, both home and abroad, can finally start to make a recovery. I, for one, am looking forward to exploring more of the diving delights on offer in our backyard, plus a few exotic locations from around the globe. In this issue of the magazine, we begin with an article on the spectacular Rowley Shoals off the coast of Northwest Australia. Deborah Dickson-Smith gives us the lowdown on this pristine wilderness that usually hosts fewer than 200 divers per year. Staying in Australia, Don Silcock delves into the thriving waters of Nelson Bay, a haven for critters. Further afield on the far-flung shore of Mexico, Mike Bartick is impressed with the stunning reefs and ripping currents off the island of Cozumel, and the famous Cenotes on the nearby mainland, while Phil Short ventures deep into the heart of a mine in Sweden. We also have a great article about the fantastic conservation work currently been carried out in Malaysia. Deborah Dickson-Smith takes a closer look at some of the projects undertaken by Malaysia’s Ocean Heroes. As usual, we have our regular columns from DAN, Dive Planit and Wreck Hunter, plus underwater photography tips, conservation from the Philippines, plus some great equipment reviews, including an in-depth look at the Mares Horizon by Nicolas Remy. Adrian Stacey, Editor-at-Large (Australia & New Zealand)

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TECH: SWEDEN

TECHNICAL DIVING GURU PHIL SHORT WAXES LYRICAL ABOUT LANGBAN’S MINE

ROWLEY SHOALS

WHY THIS REMOTE DIVE SPOT DEMANDS YOUR ATTENTION

COZUMEL CALLING

MEXICO IS ONE LONGHAUL DESTINATION WORTH LOOKING AT

Cleaning up our

OCEANS FOCUS ON CONSERVATION PROJECTS

THROUGHOUT MALAYSIA

WRECK HUNTER

NELSON’S BAY

MARES HORIZON ISSUE #39

PHOTOGRAPH © WILLYAM BRADBERRY

Regular columns

Monthly features...

10 News roundup

20 Australia

18 DAN Medical Q&A

28 Mexico

Winners of the Ocean Photography Awards announced, new liveaboard in Saudi Arabia, Reeftip drinks support the Great Barrier Reef, advice on best practices for swimming with mantas, and the Darkwater Group acquire KISS CCR.

The Divers Alert Network team answer questions about bruising after diving, and diving after surgery.

38 Divers Alert Network: Asia Pacific

The DAN team dives deep into the myth that divers feel less tired after a dive on nitrox than they would have on air.

66 Conservation Corner

The WWF says sharks and rays are at risk of extinction.

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The Rowley Shoals is one of Australia’s most-remote dive locations, and with one of the shortest dive seasons in the world, fewer than 200 people dive this isolated and pristine location each year.

A few weeks ago, Mike Bartick answered a call which had him quickly booking a flight and pack-ing his gear. What happened after that was surprising, reviving and nothing short of inspiring as he escaped to Cozumel, Mexico, in search of fun and freedom.

34 Underwater Photography

Mario Vitalini celebrates the return of travel to Egypt by focusing on one of his favourite sites, The Barge.

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...continued

Gear & testing

42 TECH: Sweden

60 What’s New

Avid cave and mine diver Phil Short goes back to his ‘happy place’ - Langbans Mine in Sweden – a location he describes as being the ‘best mine dive in the world’.

48 Malaysia

Deborah Dickson-Smith showcases several resorts and organisations running conservation projects throughout Malaysia.

54 Australia

Scuba Diver’s Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock ventures into the waters off Nelson Bay, which as he explains, is critter central for those in the know.

WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU

Scuba Diver Editor-in-Chief Mark Evans presents a round up of some of the latest releases on to the dive market, including the Aqualung Xscape wetsuits, new colour ways for the Fourth Element Gulper water bottles, and the INON Z-330 strobe.

61 Test Extra

Nicolas Remy presents an in-depth review of the Mares Horizon eSCR, comparing it with his existing rEvo CCR and looking at the pros and cons of this innovative new design, which could put rebreather technology into the hands of recreational divers at a great price point.

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Each month, we bring together the latest industry news from the Asia-Pacific region, as well as all over our water planet. To find out the most up-to-date news and views, check out the website or follow us on our various social media @scubadivermag www.scubadivermag.com.au/news

OCEAN PHOTOGRAPHY AWARDS WINNERS ANNOUNCED Ningaloo Coast-based photographer Aimee Jan has been announced as the Ocean Photographer of the Year 2021

A

imee’s beautiful image of a green sea turtle surrounded by glassfish was captured on the world-famous Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia. Chosen from thousands of submissions from around the world, it was a unanimous winner among the seven world-renowned Ocean Photography Awards judges. In second place is Exeter-based photographer Henley Spiers, with a beautiful photograph of diving gannets off the Shetland Islands, Scotland. In third place is Sydney-based photographer Matty Smith, with an image of a hawksbill turtle hatchling heading out to sea for the first time. This year has also seen the introduction of the Female Fifty Fathoms Award, a new nomination category designed to celebrate inspiring women in ocean photography. LAbased photographer and biology teacher Renee Capozzola has been announced the inaugural winner for her beautiful portfolio of work. Hannah Le Leu was crowned the Young Ocean Photographer of the Year, Martin Broen took the title of Exploration Photographer of the Year, and Kerim Sabuncuoglu won the Conservation Photographer of the Year. A free outdoor public exhibition alongside the River Thames, on the Queen’s Walk near Tower Bridge, will be open to the public until 17 October. The Ocean Photography Awards has been produced by Oceanographic Magazine in partnership with Blancpain, Aimee Jan’s overall winning shot

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Kerim Sabuncuoglu was the Conservation Photographer of the Year

Princess Yachts and Tourism Western Australia, and in support of conservation organisation SeaLegacy. Marc A Hayek, president and CEO of Blancpain, said: “As a keen scuba diver and underwater photographer, I appreciate what it takes to capture extraordinary photographs of the ocean: passion, skill and commitment to your craft. The finalists of the Ocean Photography Awards 2021 display those assets in abundance. Their images reveal the ocean for what it is – or at least what it should be – a place full of life, colour and wonder. They also remind us of the injustices we are inflicting upon it. What a powerful collection of photographs.” Kiran Haslam, chief marketing officer at Princess Yachts, said: “We are honoured to have seen outstanding images submitted this year; they are of incredible standard, capturing some truly exceptional moments. The images submitted in this year’s OPA, without doubt, poignantly highlight the fact that the most important thing we can do right now is act quickly to protect our planet and our ocean.” David Templeman, Western Australian Government Tourism Minister, said: “This year’s finalists have done an incredible job, not just in capturing aquatic adventures so evocatively, but in inspiring new audiences to treasure them.”

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Hannah Le Leu was crowned Young Photographer of the Year Renee Capozzola took the Female Fifty Fathoms Award

Martin Broen took the title of Exploration Photographer of the Year

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Cristina Mittermeier, co-founder and president of SeaLegacy, said: “The calibre of the images submitted to the second annual Ocean Photography Awards was incredible! I, along with my fellow judges, were challenged and more than impressed by the entries this year. We spent a lot of time discussing the power these images have to inspire people all over the world to advocate for ocean protection. We also spent a considerable amount of time admiring the incredible artistry. Thank you to everyone who entered, and congratulations to this year’s finalists.” www.oceanphotographyawards.com

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EXPLORE THE RED SEA IN SAUDI ARABIA WITH SCUBA TRAVEL

EMPEROR PRICING MEANS NO HIDDEN EXTRAS

WE ARE DIVING IN THE RED SEA AND MALDIVES NOW! Contact us for the latest updates on new flight arrivals

Contact reservations@ emperordivers.com We’re the team to help you go diving again!

Dive specialist tour operator Scuba Travel will be running a premium liveaboard – the M/V Typhoon – in the Red Sea in Saudi Arabia from the end of this month. Designed and built by the award-winning Tornado Marine Fleet, the steel-hulled M/V Typhoon – which will be known as the Saudi Explorer during its time in the country – is set to become the flagship of the fleet and boasts a stylish, modern interior and exterior. This ship has the ability to sail in all sea conditions due it its steel hull, which also gives it excellent stability. Throughout the interior of the ship, the tones are neutral and the style modern, with an ‘L’ shaped hotel-style restaurant on the lower deck equipped with a sound system and large HD screen. None of the cabins on the M/V Typhoon / Saudi Explorer are below deck, affording guests a sea view from every room. The main deck comprises of five en-suite twin cabins and a double suite. The suite situated at the very front of the main deck offers clients spectacular views across the sea and coast. The upper deck has four cabins with double beds convertible into twin beds. All cabins are air conditioned. The outdoor common areas and the diving area have been designed to meet the expectations of the most-demanding divers. The flybridge has a bar area with photo-video equipment and charging bench. The sundeck is equipped with sunbathing area, deck chairs and jacuzzi. Food, soft drinks and water are included. In Saudi Arabia, the consumption of alcohol is prohibited, so none will be available on board. Hammerhead sharks, whalesharks, turtles and so much more await in the southern Red Sea of Saudi Arabia, which are famed for their pristine coral reefs, including Yanbu and the Seven Reefs. There will be two to three dives a day during the itinerary. www.scubatravel.com

DIVE INDUSTRY MOURNS LOSS OF TECH PIONEER DAN BURTON

LEADING THE WAY SINCE 1992 Quality | Excellence | Service Flexibility | Value

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14/06/2021 12:51

The diving world is in mourning over the loss of tech diving pioneer and talented underwater photographer and videographer Dan Burton, who died on Saturday 18 September in a tragic paramotor accident in the Scottish Highlands. Fifty-four-year-old Burton was in the final stages of a challenge to circumnavigate Britain with Conservation Without Borders founder Sacha Dench, and they were using battery-powered paramotors to mark the forthcoming UN climate change conference in Glasgow. The accident, reported to be a collision between the two paramotors, happened near Loch Na Gainmhich. Dench was said to be seriously injured but in a stable condition. Burton, who was a very experienced paramotor pilot, was renowned around the world for his underwater photography and videography skills, and he was among the first to explore the realms of technical diving with different gas mixes, etc.

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LADY MUSGRAVE HQ

Experience the jewel of the Southern Great Barrier Reef like never before with the launch of Lady Musgrave HQ, the bespoke-build pontoon at Lady Musgrave Island, departing from Bundaberg, Queensland. A new three-level pontoon nestled in the sheltered waters of Lady Musgrave Island and Lagoon. Welcoming guests from mid-September 2021, this is set to change guest experiences on the Southern Great Barrier Reef. The pontoon will create a whole new way for day trip and overnight visitors to experience the island and the Great Barrier Reef. The bespoke 35 metre by 12 metre build provides independent snorkel and dive platforms, as well as seamless access to high-speed dive boats, the glass-bottom boat and the luxury catamaran Reef Empress. A core attraction for day guests and overnight visitors alike is the underwater observatory. View marine life and the corals by day, and by night enjoy liveaboard-style bunk accommodation for up to 20 guests, where you can fall asleep viewing the abundant underwater marine life. The underwater observatory is perfect for dive groups or school groups. Guests also have the option to sleep above the surface and under the starlit sky on the Upper Deck Reef View Queen Glamping Beds. Overnight stays include transfers on our luxury catamaran departing Bundaberg Port Marina, meals, snorkelling equipment hire and linen. All accommodation utilises shared amenities with private hot shower cubicles and locker storage. Enjoy home-cooked style dinner showcasing local and seasonal produce with unbeatable reef views on the pontoon deck or indulge in a picnic hamper on Lady Musgrave Island with your own private beach.

The pontoon features the most sustainable and eco-friendly build in the world. Above the waterline, the innovative zero-impact design is completely solar and wind-powered, and below the waves, coral cultivation and Citizen Science programmes give back to the world’s greatest natural treasure.

QUEENSLAND’S NEWEST DRINKS BRAND SET TO HELP TURBO-CHARGE GREAT BARRIER REEF CORAL REGENERATION

A world-first science and tourism partnership to support the growth of new corals in the Great Barrier Reef is being given a financial helping hand by Diageo Australia, the drinks producer behind Bundaberg Rum, through the launch of its new drinks brand, Reeftip Drinks Co. Reeftip, which is launching with a spiced rum premix range featuring hints of Australian inspired local flavours and a spiced rum spirit in October, is donating 10 per cent of its profits to the Coral Nurture Programme, who aim is to build the resilience of the Great Barrier Reef and boost coral abundance along tourism sites through innovative scientific methods of coral propagation and planting where it’s needed most. Reeftip’s financial support will enable the Coral Nurture Programme to significantly accelerate its coral regeneration work at Great Barrier Reef sites where coral needs to be boosted and maintained and support the scientific research that underpins field work on the reef. Angus McPherson, Managing Director of Diageo Australia, said: “Australians are getting right behind the local spirits industry and that’s why I’m so excited to launch Reeftip, Australia’s newest spirits brand, a product that not only tastes good, but does good. “Consumers around the world are becoming increasingly aware of the environment they live in, and they’re passionate about brands that give back and make a positive contribution.” That’s what Reeftip is about - it’s helping scientists and those who live and work on the reef build its long-term resilience,” Mr McPherson added. “We’re incredibly fortunate to have the world’s largest coral reef ecosystem on our doorstep, and we all want to see it preserved.”

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FIJI REOPENING

As Fiji prepares to welcome foreign travellers back for the first time after a 21-month hiatus on all travel and tourism, there’s no better time to book a trip to the island nation’s pristine shores as the definitive bucket list island destination for 2022. As Fiji’s most-sophisticated private island resort for all types of travellers, VOMO Island Fiji is known for embodying heartfelt luxury, and looks forward to welcoming guests back to the island, where they’ll be introduced to a multitude of new property enhancements including: • UNLIMITED Diving: As a PADI five-star Gold Palm Dive resort, ocean lovers can enjoy unfettered front-row reef access not available to other island resorts through a PADI Open Water Certification Course or a Discover Scuba Diving Course, with unlimited diving throughout the entirety of their stay. • UNLIMITED Romance: Couples can book a private picnic at their own deserted island (Vomo Lai Lai), celebrate with a Sunset Cruise, indulge in an extended lunch in a cabana at the adults-only Rocks Beach Club and much more with a curated romance filled packaged for two. • UNLIMITED Nanny: For families that would like to fully unplug while still keeping their peace-of-mind, VOMO will offer a dedicated nanny between 9am and 9pm daily as required. This package also includes full use of the Kids Village, plus as much babysitting services as needed. • UNLIMITED Action: The expansive size of VOMO allows guests plenty of opportunity for exploration both on foot and water, from Mt Vomo sunrise hikes and Coconut Challenges (husking, scraping, milking, cooking, weaving) to private kayak excursions and stand-up paddle board lessons, guests of all ages can take part in a plethora of exhilarating activities. www.vomofiji.com

CAPTAIN COOK CRUISES’ REEF SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS CONTINUE

The world-renowned coral reefs of Fiji are natural wonders that can be experienced and explored by guests of Captain Cook Cruises. The sustainability and health of these unique reefs is a key focus of the company team of predominantly female marine biologists. These dedicated biologists lead a range of sustainability initiatives including the Captain Cook Cruises Coral Rejuvenation Programme, on the 500-acre coral reef at beautiful Tivua Island. A central element of this commitment is the ‘buy a coral - build a reef’ project, which was launched in July last year to promote the seeding and growth of coral reef surrounding Tivua. In addition to the company’s extensive efforts, all guests can actively participate by buying a coral frag and planting it in the reef. Captain Cook Cruises is a leader in sustainable tourism and reef education in Fiji more broadly, with their team providing education to guests both on Tivua Island as well as when cruising on small ship Reef Endeavour through water activities and lectures. In addition to the Reef Rejuvenation programme, the company also has an Ocean Ambassador initiative. Fiji is well known for its pristine clear waters and beaches and the Ocean Ambassador programme targets any ocean-borne debris it finds from beaches around Fiji during the Reef Endeavour itineraries that stretch as far as Sawa-i-lau and Kia island in the north and the outer reaches of the Lau group, visiting more than 90 of Fiji’s 330 islands. Any debris found is sorted, weighed, recorded and recycled. www.captaincookcruisesfiji.com

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SWIM WITH MANTAS WITH A RESPONSIBLE OPERATOR

DIVE THE ex-HMAS BRISBANE #1 Artificial wreck dive in Australia • Suitable for Open Water Divers • 133m long artificial wreck dive • Located on the Sunshine Coast, Queensland • Over 400 species of fish and corals • Turtles, Rays, Grouper, Octopus, crayfish • Family run business for over 40 years • Hassle free diving – short 40m walk to dive vessel • Over 150 car parks nearby • 25min boat trip from our dive shop • Spend the 1 hour surface interval in calm waters

Snorkelling or diving or with a manta ray is an incredible experience which people treasure and retell. The Manta Trust know that responsible manta tourism can be part of the solution to combating the issue of global manta fisheries, encouraging many countries and governments with a strong incentive to protect these animals. However, manta rays are very sensitive to disturbances and occasionally uncontrolled human interactions have negatively impact local manta populations, driving them away from important areas where they clean, feed or breed. There have been cases of tour operators driving boats over aggregations of surface-feeding manta rays, injuring them with boat propellors, and divers clustering over manta clean stations, which prevents mantas from accessing them. To help combat this, the Manta Trust are working with growing numbers of responsible manta tourism operators worldwide who are committed to sustainable manta conservation. These operators follow the Manta Trust’s Swim with Mantas guidelines, which show divers and snorkellers how they should behave in the water around manta rays, and get the most from their experience. As the tourism industry opens up again in 2021, the Manta Trust are urging divers to choose a responsible manta tourism operator and ensure their trip doesn’t impact negatively on local manta populations. The Swim with Mantas guidelines have been validated by scientific studies, following several years of marine research conducted in the Maldives and provide the Best Practice Code of Conduct for Manta Ray Tourism. In addition, they include recommendations for tourism operators on how best to approach and depart manta aggregation sites, and how to help their crew manage a manta excursion with guests. www.swimwithmantas.org

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26/06/2021 07:29

Almost one year ago, KISS rebreathers and The Darkwater Group agreed terms, and now the transition is finally complete. This acquisition gives KISS access to new technologies, extensive logistics and capital for growth. The Darkwater Group – which manages three brands in the diving industry now, xDEEP, Seal Drysuits and now KISS – was formed in 2020 by passionate technical and cave divers, explorers and investors. Darkwater aims to provide the most-innovative and high-quality dive equipment and technologies to the diving community. Mike Young, Kim Mikusch and Lynette Qualls remain as part of the KISS team, and will be the US representatives. Manufacturing remains US-based, with improvements to some component manufacturing (e.g counterlungs) in Poland, but no major changes are planned to the current KISS units or portfolio. Regarding EU product availability, Darkwater begins the CE approval process in May 2021 and expect to complete this mammoth task in time for a mid-2022 launch of KISS on the EU market. In addition, in the first half of 2022, they expect to launch the new KISS Training Portal, an e-learning tool that will revolutionise how instructors interact with KISS, facilitating information, evaluation and examinations globally. In early 2022, expect to see a new Factory Approved Training Programme with updated training standards being developed by Patrick Widman, the new Training Director. Free workshops for instructors and instructor trainers will be available across the globe to unify how divers learn to dive with KISS CCRs.

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Come visit the World Heritage Great Barrier Reef with the award-winning crew of Passions of Paradise. Snorkel in pristine waters, go for a dive, or relax with a drink and enjoy the sailing. The best memories on the reef, no filter required. www.passions.com.au +61 7 4041 1600 email: reservations@passions.com.au Departing from Cairns, Queensland

Suited to both Divers and Snorkelers.

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Ask DAN

DAN medical specialists and researchers answer your dive medicine questions

BRUISE-LIKE LINES ON SHOULDERS Q: About an hour after I completed a single drysuit dive on air, I noticed odd bruise-like lines on both shoulders and behind both knees, but no other symptoms. The uneventful dive was to 20m for 24 minutes in a lake with a water temperate of 10° Celsius. The drysuit was tight around the shoulders, armpits and knees. How would I know if this is skin bends or suit squeeze? A: When differentiating between drysuit squeeze and the many causes of diving-related skin conditions, we can quickly eliminate most types of marine life injuries simply because the skin is completely covered by the suit. Cutaneous decompression sickness (DCS), or skin bends, is a mild form of DCS. Drysuit squeeze is a type of barotrauma or pressure injury to the skin that is caused by a failure to add air to your drysuit during descent. While descending, the volume of the air spaces is reduced and trapped in the folds of the suit. The skin tends to be sucked into these folds. Divers will often recall the suit being tight or ill-fitting. The diver may find linear marks or bruises, usually beneath the drysuit’s valves and seams. This condition is usually painless and clears within a few days. To avoid suit squeeze, divers should add just enough gas to the suit during descent and make sure to vent excess gas when ascending. Cutaneous DCS typically presents as a blotchy, bruiselike rash generally appearing in areas of the body with the most adipose tissue (body fat), such as the abdomen, thighs, buttocks and breasts. The condition usually responds well to surface-level oxygen therapy. DAN has observed, however, that at least 20 percent of divers with suspected skin bends may also experience visual disturbances, weakness, confusion or other neurological symptoms that require recompression treatments. It is important that divers do not overlook these symptoms. DAN always recommends a thorough medical evaluation and appropriate treatment of divers with suspected skin bends.

DIVING AFTER SURGERY Q: I recently had surgery; when can I dive again? A: The type or complexity of the surgery directly affects recovery time. The act of diving does not necessitate specific consideration or a protracted recovery time following most uncomplicated surgeries. Exceptions to this general rule involve major organ surgery, i.e., heart, lung, brain, spinal cord and orthopaedic repairs requiring hardware, joint and bone reconstruction. Your surgeon is the best resource to discuss specifics such as the procedure, recovery time and potential complications. If the surgery prompts the need for structured rehabilitation, it can be considered more complex and will most likely indicate a longer recovery period. When can one safely return to diving after general surgeries? The essential advice is to refrain from diving activities until you are completely healed. The incision(s) should be well healed, and you should be free of pain and recovered from any post-operative complications. When your surgeon releases you for activity without restriction, you can consider a return to diving. Remember that despite complete healing, you may still need time to adequately recover strength, stamina and exercise capacity. Consider a cautious approach to your initial dives. Start in a controlled environment prior to remote travel or dives in rough conditions. The healing process often takes longer than we would like, so please be patient and follow these recommendations to increase your chances for a successful recovery. DANAP.org

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R

owley Shoals is located about 260km west of Broome on the north-western Australian coast, at the edge of one of the widest continental shelves in the world. Life here is governed by the extreme tides, which pour in and out of the oval-shaped atolls via narrow natural channels, creating racing currents, which makes for some truly adrenalin-filled drift diving. Much of the diving is done on the outside of the three coral atolls, where the walls plunge down into 50m-400m depth, and drifting through the channels. The drifts can be gentle, or swift, depending on the state of the tide, and the water is a very comfortable 27 degrees C to 28 degrees C. With more than 200 species of coral and 700 species of fish, residents of the reefs include coral trout, clownfish, humphead parrotfish, Maori wrasse, Spanish mackerel, giant potato cod, dogtooth tuna and green turtles.

Mermaid Reef – Mermaid Reef is 15km long and 8km wide, with no landmass that remains after high tide, which makes it a National Marine Reserve under Commonwealth management. Therefore, no fishing of any sort is permitted on this reef and out to a designated zone approximately 1km off the reefs’ outer perimeter. Clerke Reef – Clerke Reef is 16km long and 8km wide and has a permanent sandy cay at the northern end of the atoll named Bedwell Island. Imperieuse Reef – Imperieuse Reef is 18km long and 8km wide, with small portion of sand that remains after the highwater mark called Cunningham Island. Originally it was on this sandy cay that a scientific recording post was established, one of only two stainless steel lighthouses that exist in Australia. Over the years, Cunningham Island has shifted around and now the lighthouse juts up out of shallow water.

Getting here

Diving Rowley Shoals

There is a small selection of dive liveaboards to choose from, all of which operate cruises of the rugged Kimberley Coast for most of the year outside the Rowley Shoals season. These include Odyssey Expeditions, a mid-range 24-metre catamaran with spacious air-conditioned cabins and shared facilities, Great Escape, a 26-metre catamaran with ensuite air-conditioned cabins, and for a truly high-end luxury cruise experience, True North. Top Tip: because the season is so short, spots on the Rowley Shoals liveaboards quickly get booked up. It pays to plan ahead and book at least a year in advance.

Three Ancient Atolls

The Rowley Shoals shelf atolls arise from depths of between 300m and 700m. They are the most-perfect examples of shelf atolls in Australian waters, believed to have formed over 10 million years ago. In comparison, the Great Barrier Reef is believed to have formed only two million years ago. There are three atolls:

Most liveaboard itineraries focus on Clerk and Mermaid Atolls, with a rare few also including Imperious Atoll. Here’s a guide to the sites you’re likely to experience on a Rowley Shoals liveaboard expedition.

Clerke Atoll

Typical Rowley Shoals itineraries include three to four days diving Clerke Atoll, over half the week-long liveaboard trip, and you’ll see why – with such an abundance and diversity of dive sites.

Clerke Aquarium

Clerke Aquarium is usually the first dive, a check-out dive in a shallow,

Rowley Shoals was so named by Captain Philip Parker King in 1818 in honour of Captain Rowley, who first sighted Imperieuse Reef in 1800. It is believed the Shoals were visited by Indonesian fishermen from at least the mid-18th century.

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The Rowley Shoals is one of Australia’s most-remote dive locations, and with one of the shortest dive seasons in the world, fewer than 200 people dive this isolated and pristine location each year Photographs by Scott Portelli

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Rowley Shoals’ remote reefs are spectacular

Light beams penetrate through holes in the cave ceilings, and you’ll likely be joined by a school of trevally circling around in the sunbeams, a picturesque dive protected area inside the atoll. Here you get a feel for the environment, navigating around the base of a large bommie in 12m depth. Large hard corals dominate, although many had been ‘flattened’ by the strong tides, and on the white sand surrounding the bommie, there are thick forests of staghorn, with plenty of reef fish darting around.

The Bat Cave

Often the first venture to the outside edge of the atoll. Jump off the boat into clear blue water, and you’ll immediately notice the pristine condition of the corals. The reef slopes down to a wall, then drops off onto the blue to 50m. A kaleidoscope of colourful coral grows out from the wall, including bright red gorgonian fans, yellow plate corals, and fuschia-pink soft corals. On your way back up the reef, explore the shallower gutters on your safety stop, with whitetip reef sharks resting on the sandy floors.

Imperieuse Reef was named by Captain Philip Parker King after the ship - HMS Imperieuse - from which the reef was sighted by Captain Rowley back in 1800. It is also home to a lighthouse - Imperieuse Reef Light.

Clerke Channel drift snorkel

On this exciting drift snorkel, as soon as you jump in the water, the current will tug you away from the boat. Drift from the outside of the atoll, through the channel, to the inside of the atoll (preferable to drifting out of the atoll, out to sea!) With the incoming tide bringing in clear oceanic waters, the visibility is great, a good 20 to 30 metres. The walls of

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the channel are lined with coral and you’ll see schools of snapper sheltering under coral outcrops and schools of huge bumphead parrotfish chomping loudly on the coral. Continue drifting fast through the channel – no need to kick, just relax and go with the flow – until getting pushed out into the inside of the atoll, where you slow down gently as the current dissipates. The boat will then pick you up and drop you in again into a narrower channel to repeat the ride.

Clerke Caves

Snorkellers can also enjoy the reefs

A relatively shallow dive (12m) where the reef is full of tunnels, gutters and caves. Light beams penetrate through holes in the cave ceilings, and you’ll likely be joined by a school of trevally circling around in the sunbeams, a picturesque dive. One of the larger cave entrances is framed with an array of red gorgonian fans providing a beautifully framed view, looking out as trevally circle the entrance.

Clerke Channel

Anemonefish and its host anemone Vibrant sea fan

For this dive, you’re dropped into the channel to drift outwards towards the edge of the atoll. This is one of the fastest drifts you’ll ever experience! There’s no other option but to surrender to the tide, and zoom past the coral bommies, past the schools of sweetlips, bumphead parrotfish, and whitetip reef sharks. So much fun! When you get spat out of the channel exit, you’ll find yourself at a site called Coral Gardens, where you slow to a gentle drift along a colourful wall (which drops down to 50m plus). At this cleaning station, large grey pufferfish make use of the coral outcrops to lie and be cleaned by smaller wrasse and cod stop with their mouths wide open for the tiny wrasse to pick scraps from their teeth, a relaxing second half of the dive after the ‘adrenalin drift’. The max depth is 23m. You can encounter some huge rays

The Shoals are blessed with clears waters

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Blue Lagoon

Blue Lagoon is a spectacular site. There are multiple lagoons with white coral-rubble floors at 8m-12m, enclosed by sheer walls of coral. There is abundant fish life, including anemonefish, a large school of trevally and whitetip reef sharks. After the dive, you’re normally allowed to drift with the current all the way back to the mothership Reef Prince, instead of being driven back the usual way in the dive tender.

Cupcakes

This dive is named after its cupcake-shaped coral bommies, but the main portion of the site is a stunning gradual sloping reef that disappears into the depths. As on all the sites here, there are large healthy corals and abundant fish life, including lots of curious batfish. The maximum depth is approximately 23m, although the reef slopes off to 50m.

Aerial view of the Rowley Shoal reefs Gigantic sea fan

Clerke Wall

This wall is, again, covered in wonderfully healthy and colourful corals and slopes steeply into the dark blue depths. There are so many tiny schooling fish around the corals here, sparkling in the sun, as they flit around, like each coral fan has its own light show going on. As with most of the dives you can pick your depth (the wall descends from the shallows to 50m plus), but it’s worth staying in the 5m-20m range as there is so much to see here.

Eel Creek

After winding through coral bommies in the shallows, you’ll reach a white sandy expanse that slopes off onto the deep. All over the sand at 20m depth are hundreds of little garden eels poking their bodies above the sand.

Minis & Mighties

This dive site gently slopes, then plunges down to 50m. The water is so clear, at 20m, you can look down and see the sandy sea floor, with corals as vibrant and colourful as usual.

Mermaid Atoll

Mermaid Atoll is a three-hour steam north of Clerke Atoll and the dive sites here are spectacular, a great place to end a great week of diving. The nutrient-rich waters mean healthy corals

Cod Hole

Cod Hole is like a cauldron – coral walls and white sandy base – churning with massive bumphead parrotfish, reef sharks, barracuda and trevally. There is a lot of action on this dive, just watching the fish swirl around you is an incredible experience. Halfway through the dive, the current picks up and the dive turns into a fast drift, through gutters leading back towards the boat. On the drift, look out for more bumphead parrotfish, whitetip reef sharks and the odd nurse shark laying on the sand.

Mermaid Wall

At Mermaid Atoll, the drop-offs are deeper, with a sheer wall of coral plunging down 400m. Of all the walls at Rowley Shoals, this is one of the most vibrant and colourful. The wall is covered in large red gorgonian fans and bright pink soft corals sprouting out between myriad hard coral formations. Grey reef sharks circle in the dark blue below as you drift gently along the wall, with trevally gliding above you. n

Think ahead…

Contact Diveplanit Travel now for Rowley Shoals liveaboard availability in 2023. Email: enquire@ diveplanit.com or visit the website for more details: Diveplanit.com

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The

Rowley

ShoalS

17° 2 0 ’ S

119°2 0 e

Choose The Best What’s your definition of adventure? We reckon it’s any experience that takes you into your unknown. And that’s what we do, every day. An adventure on the TRUE NORTH is not a typical expedition cruise. We have been exploring the Kimberley coast for more than 30 years, tracking down the region’s most unique experiences. And the TRUE NORTH is built for purpose – designed to sail off the beaten track, designed to uncover hidden coastal gems in maximum comfort. We can’t necessarily say what you’ll be doing each day. Because it’s up to you. With six dedicated adventure boats and an onboard helicopter at your disposal – you can choose if today is the day that you catch your first barramundi or, perhaps you might choose to fly to an otherwise impossible‑to‑reach spot that others don’t even know about. An adventure on the Kimberley coast is a once in a lifetime experience. Make sure you Choose the Best and, here’s to not knowing the rest, here’s to your next adventure.

Don’t miss last minute opportunity to join 2021 departures featuring The Kimberley and The Rowley Shoals. True North +61 8 9192 1829 experiences@truenorth.com.au | www.truenorth.com.au


TO DIVE THE CORAL SEA &

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fter over a year out of service due to Covidinduced border closures, in December this year, the much-loved Great Barrier Reef liveaboard Spirit of Freedom will be back in action, running three-, four- and seven-day trips to the Ribbon Reefs and Coral Sea! Here are four more reasons to dive the Coral Sea and Ribbon Reefs.

North Horn, Osprey Reef

Known mainly as a shark-feeding dive, the site’s location ensures plenty of pelagic action. Located at the northernmost tip of Osprey Reef, food-rich currents from the surrounding deep water attract large pelagics such as grey reef sharks, whitetip and silvertip sharks, hammerheads and the occasional thresher shark. The shark spectacular itself happens at the tip of the reef, with divers seated around natural coral amphitheatre while the sharks are lured in for a thrill (and photo opportunity) with a bucket of chum. Once the sharks have had their feed, drift along the Western Wall, which is festooned with vibrant soft corals and forests of gorgonian fans while clouds of purple anthias add to the whole rainbow of colours.

Soft Coral Wall, Osprey Reef

This drift dive runs along the outer edge of Osprey Reef, dropping down to unimaginable depths. After dropping in at around 30m, drift past huge gorgonian fans and soft corals of all sorts, and in all sorts of candy colours – yellow, pink, orange, blue, red… populated by clouds of reef fish. Be sure to look out into the blue for sailfish, hammerheads, dogtooth tuna, eagle rays and big schools of bigeye jacks, barracuda and herds of bumphead parrotfish. The drift ends with a finale of sharks at North Horn, where even the odd whale shark has been sighted.

Crystal Plateau, Bougainville Reef

Bougainville Reef is one of the more-remote reef systems in the Coral Sea. The reef here is one of the healthiest in the Coral Sea, and even in the shallows you can expect to see large schools of drummer, trevally, barracuda and bumphead parrotfish. There is a fantastic drift dive here between the western reef wall and a row of five or six pinnacles where you’ll drift by large schools of fish before reaching the end of the slipstream to be greeted by the friendliest potato cod.

Two Towers, Ribbon Reef 10

Two Towers is located on the northern tip of the Ribbon Reefs, and there are two big reasons to love it. Firstly, this reef is a poster child for coral resilience, showing remarkable recovery from damage from two cyclones in 2013 and 2014. In just seven years, the coral cover on the shallower parts of this once dead reef is dense and diverse. There is a high density of fast-growing branching and plating corals, bringing with them fish species such fusiliers, chromis, damsels, blue line snapper, turtles and black anemonefish. Secondly, the reef’s unique topography forms a perfect nursery (in winter months) for brooding dwarf minke whales. Between this long section of reef and the mainland, there are no large reefs or bommies, just a wide-open paddock with a sandy sea floor, protected from the open ocean by Ribbon Reef 10. n For more information about Spirit of Freedom pricing, availability and itinerary, email enquire@diveplanit.com, call 1800 607 913 or visit Diveplanit.com/specials

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Cozumel I

think it’s safe to say that many of us in the diving community are feeling the travel pinch like never before. Quarantines have turned our colourful world into a black and white environment with one day bleeding into the next, shifting plans, shifting policies - all of this sitting around is exhausting! One place that hasn’t closed its borders though, and is welcoming guests from all over the globe is Mexico. So if you’re ready to exchange your face mask for a dive mask and overdue to get wet, than pack your gear, book your trip and ‘go go go’! Cozumel is a tiny island in the Caribbean Sea that sits off the eastern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula, just across from mainland Mexico, in the state of Quintana Roo. Getting there is easy to do with a small on-island airport that has regular flights arriving and departing daily from all over the US. The seaside resort town has an active and thriving dive community full of ex-pats, great restaurants, all-inclusive dive resorts and private hire lodging like condos, apartments and houses. In addition, many of the ocean-front accommodations are also serviced by private hire dive operations which makes Cozumel an even easier choice for diver/ non-diver travel. While shore diving is an easy entry from almost anywhere, accessing the reefs and protected dive parks will require a boat for several reasons, the main being the current. Cozumel is synonymous with drift diving, which

attracts divers of all skill levels of course, but also plays a significant roll in the ecology of the marine life found. From the tip of Maracaibo, Punta Sur, where the prevailing current first moves through the Cozumel channel, all the way to Barracuda Reef, the magic of the moving waters are evident. The current plays a key role in keeping the underwater habitat colourful and thriving by transporting nutrients and refreshing the reefs with fresh, cool water. One of the things I enjoyed the most was the abundance of unusual sponges and the cavernous topography shaped by centuries of water movement. At first, the reefs seem featureless and the colours dull, but as the current carries you closer, the colours begin to emerge and the details of what’s at work here come directly into focus. Jutting pinnacles, cuts, swim-throughs, massive sponges, Gorgonian sea fans, with greens, oranges, yellows and of course the piercing blues - to say I wasn’t ready for this would be a huge understatement. Gratefully, our dive operation supplied us with large (100/120cf) steel tanks jammed with nitrox to ensure that we could soak up as much of the beauty as we could on each dive. Most depths ranged above the 27m mark, averaging around 19m-20m, longer dives were easy to do and well appreciated. For some reason though, even with the extended bottom times, the dives passed by way too quickly and had me thirsting for more.

The current plays a key role in keeping the underwater habitat colourful and thriving by transporting nutrients and refreshing the reefs with fresh, cool water. One of the things I enjoyed the most was the abundance of unusual sponges

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A few weeks ago, Mike Bartick answered a call which had him quickly booking a flight and packing his gear. What happened after that was surprising, reviving and nothing short of inspiring as he escaped to Cozumel, Mexico, in search of fun and freedom Photographs by Mike Bartick

Canary blennies (also known as the canary fang blenny) are one of the few blenny species that possess enlarged fangs with associated venom sacs which are primarily used as a retaliatory defense and serve as a deterrent to predators.

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Cozumel’s reefs are vibrant and colourful

SCAN ME

TO START YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE!

I suppose when folks hear the words ‘drift diving’, they think of flying by the reefs without the ability to slow down or stop. Despite the moving water, we found the reefs offer respite in many places that are easy to tuck into, relax and explore. My favourite reefs to explore, like the Palancar Reef network, always included a deeper area and a shallow section with a sandy bottom, which are two totally different dives. The sandy area with small bommies tend to be a bit more fishy and usually hid more macro subjects but once the current was moving, hard to stop and shoot photos. The deeper, oceanfacing sections offer a kaleidoscope of colours and dramatic vertical relief with the trademarked Caribbean blue water as a backdrop - it’s easy to get spoiled here. Reef systems like Palancar Bricks, Garden and Horseshoe, Cedral Deep and Columbia Deep are breathtaking and beg for exploring. I was also surprised at the amount of macro life that can be found around the island. Nudibranchs, interesting crustaceans, and if you like blennies, then you’re in for a

Most depths ranged above the 27m mark, averaging around 19m-20m The cenotes are an amazing sight

treat! The corals, rocks, sponges and seagrass beds are filled with tiny photogenic critters that help to balance out the trip’s portfolio. Some of my favourites are certainly the sailfin blennies. These guys are fast and very challenging to shoot but the rewards are high. Take your time and be sure not to crowd them as they can be very shy and will only become active once they feel they are safe. I prefer a longer lens for the greatest resolution and detail of the sailfins. There are a couple of different varieties here so move slow, watch ahead and look for rapid movements. In addition to the sailfins, I was easily charmed with the bulging eyes and erratic movements of the rough head and spiny head blennies. Nearing the end on one of the dives, the guide called me over pointing ahead in the seagrass, signaling me to get low. Watching ahead, we spied a pike blenny extending itself up and bobbing its head, aggressively posturing by flaring its gills and flushing with colour. I find most blennies to be photogenic and entertaining but this little guy also had a major attitude, especially when it came to other pike blennies. In the downtown area of Cozumel, the dive site which is aptly named ‘2-boats’ sits just offshore. Although they aren’t the type of wreck that would attract tech divers, they are fantastic to polish up your wreck photography skills. The two-boats or wrecks rest in about 13m of water on a sandy sea bed surrounded by eel grass and concrete blocks adorned with coral and sponge growth. The colourful blocks lay in daisy chain fashion allowing divers to move from one to the next eventually arriving at the first wreck. The sand around the boats also provides some of the best night diving on the island. The wrecks are relatively small vessels which makes them a snap to navigate and on most days, a diver can see from stern to bow unhampered. A main goal of the trip was to explore the Cozumel channel for blackwater diving locations and to train one of the dive operations on how to conduct blackwater dives safely. Blackwater diving, which involves drift diving in open ocean at night, enables divers and photographers to get a glimpse of the area’s most-hidden secrets while providing an overview of the ecology in the area. During blackwater dives, most of the subject matter encountered are gelatinous planktons like salp chains, various types of jellyfish, cephalopods and larval fish which will eventually settle to the substrate either in deeper water, on the reef or remain nektonic.

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Expect crystal-clear waters in Cozumel

Cozumel also boasts a few shipwrecks

Arrow crab in vase sponge Pike blennies face off

Our team managed multiple dives and encountered some really promising subjects, from male argonauts and diamond squid and some deepwater subjects like dragonfish too. The blackwater diving in Cozumel shows promise and should be added to every diver’s plan while visiting there. One of the ‘can’t miss’ opportunities to take advantage of while visiting the state of Quintana Roo is diving in the vast networks of the Cenotes. Cenotes are natural sink holes that dot the landscape interconnected by a slow-moving river of water. While most of the diving is done ‘cavern style’ and being able to see light from almost anywhere throughout the dive, some of these can be true caves, leading divers through a maze of incredible limestone formations. Most of these natural sink holes have been well developed with stairs and dive platforms that locals and visitors use to escape the heat with a cool dip in the gin-clear pools of fresh water. While many divers visit this area primarily for cave diving in Tulum, staying for days or longer, we wanted to make a single day of it. The ferry system runs people back and forth between Cozumel and Playa Del Carmen every hour, making the adventure possible with the right dive operation. We coordinated with the manager at Scuba Playa, who supplied us with everything we needed including being picked up at the ferry port, lunch, tanks, transportation and, of course, a great dive guide, Davide. After a little paperwork, Davide described the cave system that we would visit while considering our skill levels and timing, The Dos Ojos cave system.

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Dos Ojos which means ‘two eyes’ offered two separate circuits for us, with each dive lasting 60-70 minutes, The Barbie Line and The Bat Cave. After Davide gave us a solid on-site briefing we prepared our gear and before long we were cruising through crystal-clear, 23 degrees C water among towering stalactites, stalagmites and formations that appeared as melting rock. Both trails lead us through a series of small swim-throughs, huge cavernous rooms, canyons and even a cavern inhabited by bats where we surfaced, had a look and a quick chat before continuing our journey. For a neophyte to this kind of diving, I found the experience to be remarkable, the photography challenging and the guided dive in this particular system to be totally safe. My only regret was not planning this as a three-day trip so we could explore even more of what the area’s cave systems offer. n

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18/08/2021 07:27


THE BARGE - YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY ONE-STOP SHOP Mario Vitalini explains why a rather humble dive site in the Egyptian Red Sea ranks highly among his favourite dive locations Photographs by Mario Vitalini

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he last 18 months have certainly been challenging and some of us haven’t had the chance to get in the water as much as we wanted. Finally, borders are re-opening, and restrictions are being lifted so we can, at last, jump in at some of our favourite warm water dive sites. For me, The Barge in the Northern Red Sea is one of those places. What makes this rather average-looking dive one of my top photo spots? Let me explain why I love diving here so much. I’ll introduce some of the subjects you are likely to find, and show how I like to shoot them.

An octopus hunting at night. I particularly love the fish in the background

The Barge

The Barge is an Egyptian photography favourite, located on Little Gubal island in the Gulf of Suez. It is a must stop for any liveaboard running a northern itinerary. As its name says, the site is marked by an old barge. Very little is known about the vessel’s history. Some theories say it was used to salvage the cargo of the Ulysses, a beautiful wreck located just around the corner that sank in 1887. Other people are more inclined to think the barge went down in 1973 during the Egypt Israel war. The truth is, there is not much left of the old wreck. Lemon gobies live on a coral tree right inside the lagoon. This is a great place to photograph these shy and elusive guys

Laying on a gentle slope between 9m and 15m, it offers plenty of bottom time and the deep waters north and east of the island ensure a constant flow of clear water. Currents are normally mild, but they can be a bit strong. If this is the case, just move to the shallow and more-protected areas. What’s left of the wreck is home to a great number of species of fish and invertebrates. Because it is a regular stop for many liveaboards, the marine life has become used to divers and is relatively easy to approach. The surrounding area is packed with marine life and the drop off is regularly visited by dolphins. Cardinalfish, nudibranchs, octopus and scorpionfish are among the many friendly subject that make The Barge their home. It is this abundance of life that draws us, and why photographers now consider this site one of the highlights of any Northern Red Sea trip.

Book your holiday with the award winning dive experts at Scuba Travel!

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Classic subjects at The Barge

Cardinalfish - After jumping from the boat, swim towards the wreck and quickly find large numbers of tiger cardinalfish and bigeyes. They hover next to the hull very close to the bottom. Look carefully and you may see some of the cardinalfishes with distended jaws. This indicates the fish is guarding its eggs inside its mouth, a great photo opportunity for portraits. Patience is key. Once you have chosen an individual, move slowly and let the fish get used to you. Try to approach them from the front to get a good look at the eggs between their sharp teeth. Occasionally cardinalfish spit out their eggs and then grab them again. This is to allow better oxygenation. Be ready to capture the moment. Lighting can be tricky. Because of the cardinals’ size, you will need to stay a bit further away than what you normally do for a traditional macro subject. If you keep your flashguns close to the housing, you will end up lighting the water column in front of the fish. Instead, push your strobe arms forward, straight in front of the housing as far as you can so your strobes are positioned closer to the subject at either side. If you want to achieve a soft background or shallow Depth of Field, you will need to open the aperture This will let more light through, compensate by reducing the power output of the strobes and reducing the ISO on your camera. Alternatively, you can try a snoot to helps concentrate the light on the subject. Or, if possible, to frame the fish against the blue background. Portrait of George, the resident moray at The Barge. By using inward lighting, I was able to accentuate the features and isolate the face

Cardinalfish with eggs in its mouth

Morays - One moray has become a symbol of The Barge, and it has been affectionately named George. It’s been living on this site for years and is one of the biggest morays I have ever seen. George often hides in or around The Barge. There are in reality several large morays around the barge, who are easy to approach and offer great wide angle and portrait opportunities. They are great to use cross lighting or even inward lighting to great effect. Peppered morays are also very common here. They tend to live on tiny holes and cracks and separate them from the messy background is challenging. A bit of spotlighting, perhaps with a torch or snoot helps to isolate them. Given the white colour of their body, backlighting can be very effective. Lionfish, and scorpionfish are easy to find all over this site. One curious thing about all of them is the size. For some reason, fish and critters in this site are consistently bigger than everywhere else.

A special treat

Swim away from the barge heading towards the shallows. You will see a sandy alley and a small shallow gap on the reef, this will lead you to a shallow lagoon. The corals around this small channel are gorgeous and being incredibly shallow it is a great place to try some split levels or dappled light photos. Swim into the lagoon for a few metres in you will see a lonely coral tree. This is home to several lemon gobies. These beautiful little fish are relatively rare and very shy but here is not difficult to photograph them. Toward the back of the lagoon, in just 3m of water, there are some old dead coral heads, in there you can spot a relatively unknown species of blenny, known as unicorn blenny. Its funny face is great to practice your super macro skills.

Book your holiday with the award winning dive experts at Scuba Travel!

+44 (0)1483 411590

www.scubatravel.com/photography


Night dives at The Barge

Using a snoot, I directed the light right to this peppered moray face creating a glowing effect

Right before dusk, hundreds of fusiliers start gathering around the wreck creating clouds of fish. These schools are not easy to photograph but if you jump at the right time and with a wide-angle lens, you can experiment with very long exposures to great effect. If you prefer a more straightforward experience, there is plenty around to keep you entertained. Many species of nudibranchs crawl along the bottom and small morays that hide during the day are now out and hunting. Night is also a great time to look for the resident octopus and try to get some great shots of their eyes (Please be kind to the creatures and do not blast them with hundreds of flashes, they do not have eyelids to protect their eyes). On the sides of the wreck, you can see some beautiful soft corals, look carefully between the branches and you may spot a candy crab. These little guys are relatively common in the Far East but not so much in the Red Sea. A word of advice: when diving at night at the barge, be extremely careful with your buoyancy. Hundreds of long spine urchins crawl around and if you get too close to the bottom there is a risk of getting stung.

Right before dusk, hundreds of fusiliers start gathering around the wreck creating clouds of fish A blue spotted stingray swim around The Barge

Bottlenose dolphins use the bay at night to rest. Is not uncommon to encounter them in the afternoons

Welcome dolphins

In the afternoons, keep an eye out for dolphins, these magnificent creatures live in the area and after a day hunting in the open water they generally come back to spend the night in the relatively protected waters. Is not uncommon for them to pay a visit and play for a few minutes with the divers. The Barge may not be known as one of the best dive sites in the world. Let’s face it… it lacks the adrenalin or drama of other well-known locations. But this humble site is a photographer’s one-stop shop in every aspect. It has an impressive variety of subjects all year round, the marine life is relatively friendly and relatively easy to approach, the visibility is good, and the shallow depths give us plenty of bottom time. For this reason, I always make The Barge a mandatory stop on all my Red Sea workshops. I can’t think of a better place to dust off those cobwebs from your kit and get back to take some great underwater photos. n

Book your holiday with the award winning dive experts at Scuba Travel!

+44 (0)1483 411590

www.scubatravel.com/photography


DIVE SMARTER GET YOUR EXACT PRESCRIPTION TODAY

MADE IN AUSTRALIA

SIMON LORENZ | INSIDER DIVERS


DIVERS ALERT NETWORK: ASIA-PACIFIC

Divers Alert Network, widely known as DAN, is an international non-profit medical and research organisation dedicated to the safety and health of divers. WWW.DANAP.ORG

MYTH-BUSTING NITROX The Divers Alert Network team dives deep into the myth that divers feel less tired after a dive on nitrox than they would have on air

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itrox is a great tool for divers to have on hand — it can extend bottom times, increase conservatism and make possible dives that would otherwise require planned decompression or a rebreather. A catch-all term for breathing gas mixtures with higher oxygen content (and in turn lower nitrogen content) than surface air, nitrox has become commonplace in all but the most-remote dive destinations. After more than 25 years of recreational nitrox use, divers and researchers have gained operational experience and significant research-based knowledge of the various nitrox mixes and their affect on dive profiles. The advantages of nitrox are well researched and documented and can be learned quickly by eager divers. In the nearly three decades of use, however, several misconceptions have surrounded the use of nitrox, most notably that divers report feeling less tired after a dive on nitrox than they would on air. These reports come from divers of all experience levels, and more than one diver has started a heated debate over the topic in postdive conversation. While the reports of this phenomenon are widespread and often fiercely defended, our best understanding is that nitrox can prevent fatigue about as well as a manatee can pass for a mermaid - there might appear to be some similarity on a foggy day, but a close look reveals little resemblance to the truth.

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What is fatigue?

Understanding the relationship between nitrox and fatigue predisposes a basic understanding of fatigue. Physical tiredness is a physiological consequence of exercise. It’s best understood as a subjective feeling of temporarily reduced capacity for work and is frequently associated with lethargy and decreased cognitive performance. It is not an uncommon symptom following an inconsequential dive with no other symptoms of decompression sickness (DCS), but it is also a frequently reported symptom of DCS. Despite divers’ frequent reports to the contrary, objective studies have not found a reliable difference in either physical fatigue or cognitive performance following dives on air compared to identical dives by the same subjects on nitrox. Given an identical dive, it is generally understood that the higher partial pressure of oxygen in nitrox (and the lower partial pressure of inert gases) will result in less decompression stress. It’s easy to make the logical leap to connect fatigue to minor decompression stress at this point, but it’s important to recognise that a higher partial pressure of oxygen also causes a different type of stress - oxidative stress. Several studies suggest the oxidative stress generated by high partial pressures of oxygen can cause mild endothelial dysfunction, which may actually lead to feelings of fatigue. This challenges the ‘nitrox-as-fatiguebuster’ myth. This oxidative stress is particularly apparent in

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After more than 25 years of recreational nitrox use, divers and researchers have gained operational experience and significant researchbased knowledge of the various nitrox mixes hyperbaric treatments, where long exposures to high partial pressures of oxygen result in frequent reports of posttreatment fatigue. Is it likely that nitrox will make you more fatigued in the water? In short — no, but it’s a significant step away from proof that nitrox can combat post-dive fatigue.

So what causes fatigue after a dive?

Diving is work, no matter how much fun it is. Thermal stress, decompression stress, exercise, prolonged oxygen exposure, anxiety and seasickness can all contribute to leaving you exhausted after a relaxing dive. Being immersed in water even without descending pushes about two-thirds of a litre of blood to the heart during the resting phase of the cardiac cycle and starts a cyclical reaction that releases hormones, eliminates fluids in the body and shunts warm blood to the core. This phenomenon resolves once a diver leaves the water, and the decline in central blood volume and pressure can cause significant fatigue on top of all the other factors in play.

What about DCS?

Subclinical DCS (minor or difficult-to-distinguish symptoms of DCS) throw a wrench in what would otherwise be fairly straightforward myth-busting. We have no definitive reason

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to believe that nitrox can reduce diver fatigue, but unusual fatigue in excess of expected levels or feeling sick after a dive can indicate a more serious issue. Even if you feel less tired after a dive on nitrox, keep in mind that fatigue alone can be a symptom of DCS, and significant fatigue may indicate a need to seek medical evaluation. If you or a buddy feel markedly tired, significantly ill or even just a little funny after a dive make sure to ignore the nitrox-versus-air debate and seek professional help — your choice of diving gas might make a great conversation starter, but it shouldn’t be a reason for symptoms that could potentially indicate a case of DCS. n For more information on nitrox and diving, visit DAN.org/Health

DAN EMERGENCY HOTLINE

In the event of a diving incident, we encourage all divers to call the DAN Hotline promptly for advice: • Within Australia: 1800 088 200 • Outside Australia: +1 919 684 9111 • Within Indonesia: 21 5085 8719

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The challenges of searching for ancient wrecks, part one Project Director Mike Haigh discusses the challenges facing wreck hunters when searching for ancient shipwrecks In truth, ancient wrecks are located in one of two ways. The first is by accident, which in my experience is the mostcommon method. A fisherman loses his nets on a piece of protruding timber, or a spearfisherman notices an ‘odd’ shape which turns out to be an anchor from a doomed vessel. The second is by thorough research and systematic searching. It is with the latter process that is the subject of this article. The three main problems that face those seeking of ancient vessels are: • The ‘general’ nature of the recorded location of lost ships. • Charts of the time when many vessels foundered were not the hydrographic masterpieces that we enjoy today. Many were, in fact, copies of other cartographer’s work, so there is plenty of room for confusion and incorrect information to slip in. • The depth of the remains. If your vessel is beyond the depth that divers can safely operate at, then you are limited in your approach to what we would call ‘electronic methods’ – some of which might be quite costly. There has been a trend, some might even say an obsession, in recent years to search for deep water sites. Both in terms of diving archaeology and for what we might call ‘prestige’ shipwrecks. The theory is sound. Wrecks that rest in deeper water are less likely to be broken up and therefore more ‘rewarding’ in terms of their preservation and the knowledge, or other values, that they may hold. However, of the three to four million shipwrecks estimated to lie beneath the waves, a large number lie in the shallows. Surely, they deserve some attention! The first key point in the process is to ensure that, whatever search method is employed, a record of the area being covered is made. Many searches omit to do so – which, of course, means that whole exercise has been a waste of time. Before any type of search is undertaken, a number of factors need to be determined, the most important

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being: ‘What sort of site you are looking for?’ ‘What is known of the background information to the loss?’ ‘What do you know about the general locality?’ From these it is possible to design a search plan which will define the area to be searched, the width of coverage of the area to be investigated, the type and size of object being sought and the velocity of the search. These factors will indicate how long the search will take. Let us first deal with what I am going to call ‘visual’ methods. In the main, these involve divers and low-cost equipment in relatively shallow waters but requiring reasonable visibility. Most divers will be familiar with swim line, grid and circular searches from their training programmes. In the past, to speed things up, divers were pulled along on underwater sledges. The Oliver was located by such a method. These days underwater scooters are used. In shallow water there is no reason why an underwater GPS system could not be employed. When we move beyond the operational depths of divers towed cameras and remotely operated vehicles (ROVs) can be used. Visual searches work best where you are covering a relatively small area. When you need to cover a large area, it is normal to use what we generally call electronic methods. One of the simplest forms of electronic search equipment is the echo sounder. In 1990, I worked with a team of divers which managed to relocate the wrecked super tanker the Amoco Cadiz using just such a tool. More advanced methods include the use of magnetometers and side-scan sonar. The Mary Rose was located by an early version of the latter. The problem with all these methods is that they have to be towed behind a boat, which makes your search accuracy dependant on surface conditions. So, what do you do when your search area is ‘difficult’ to deal with, due to either sea conditions or other factors? In the next article, we will look at exactly this question. www.wreckhunters.co.uk

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WRECK HUNTERS

2022

Barefoot luxury in the heart of Indonesia

It’s finally happening! Calling would-be undersea detectives for 2022! Plus, the chance to meet the project director at the Go Diving Show. As you all know, international COVID travel restrictions have impacted everyone. But the good news is the Wreck Hunters project can finally get underway for an extended season in 2022. This is a unique opportunity to take part in the beginning of a diving archaeology programme on the Caribbean island of Utila. The focus will be getting to the heart of the story of a wreck called ‘The Oliver’, its rich history and the life of 18th Century mariners. Learn all the skills of undersea archaeology, from traditional to cutting edge techniques. If you’re a relatively experienced diver with some skills or experience in drawing (artistic or technical), surveying, photography or in construction work this could be just what you’re looking for (See website for full details). Project Director Mike Haigh will be on hand to explain the details of the course at the Go Diving Show 2022, March 4-6 at the NAEC, Stoneleigh, Kenilworth. Find us near the entrance.

So, if you think this project would help put a smile on your face, why not get in touch to find out more at

www.wreckhunters.co.uk 0117 9596454

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Bunaken National Marine Park

info@wreckhunters.co.uk

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Avid cave and mine diver Phil Short goes back to his ‘happy place’ - Langbans Mine in Sweden – a location he describes as being the best mine dive in the world Photographs by Erik Matteusson and Anders Torstensson

From a divers’ perspective, the mine is managed with permission and support of the mine museum by a group of Swedish technical divers along with several other mines in Sweden. So access to dive is easily arranged, starting with an orientation that includes a guided tour of the surface features including the six-plus shafts leading down to the flooded levels

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We design, manufacture and retail scuba and rebreather equipment. We have fully equipped test and certification labs, and can pressure test large items in our vacuum chambers, as well as run fully automated leak test and dive simulations down to 400m. Our EMC and EMF lab is filled with state-ofthe-art equipment for testing electromagnetic compatibility and electromagnetic fields. We also have a large in-house laser for cutting and engraving on plastics and metals. www.narkedat90.com

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Computers • O2 Cells • Gas Analysers Cables & Connectors • Rebreather Parts PathFinder Strobes • Sensors Tools • Solenoids Phil and the team with the hoard of cylinders

It looks like a scene from either an Indiana Jones movie or an Abandoned Gold Mine ride at a theme park but, it’s real! Langbans Mine

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s you descend a wooden stairwell ahead, you make out the image of a railway line, a little further and it comes into focus, running from right to left, emerging from a small tunnel to the right and continuing out over a void in a huge chamber. The rails cross this void on a bridge, suspended from the roof of this enormous hall by huge chains fixed to the wall and ceiling. It looks like a scene from either an Indiana Jones movie or an Abandoned Gold Mine ride at a theme park but, it’s real!

Langbans Mine

This bridge lies at 70m of depth some way into the Langbans Mine in Sweden, an amazing time capsule of industrial archaeology. Langbans Mine is situated in farmland Sweden, the nearest city being Filipstad. The mine at Langbans was mined from 1711 to 1972, but has traces from as early as the 15th century. The area and specifically the mine has been described as one of the most mineral rich places in the world having produced over 270 different minerals. The prime purpose of the mine, however, was the extraction of iron ore later processed on site in the Langbanshyttan blast furnace from the 16th century until 1933. Also the mine is famous as one of the factory manager’s sons, John Ericsson, the Swedish inventor known for the screw propellor and the Monitor battleship, was born and raised here. From a divers’ perspective, the mine is managed with permission and support of the mine museum by a group of Swedish technical divers along with several other mines in Sweden. So access to dive is easily arranged, starting with an orientation that includes a guided tour of the surface features including the six-plus shafts leading down to the flooded levels. Although most of these can be visited and passed under during dives in the mine, all diving activities

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take place from one entrance point where kitting up benches, platforms and stairways into the water have been constructed, making access easy. The water temperature is a constant 6 degrees C at all depths, so for Scandinavian mines in general ‘warm’, and crystal clear with ten metres plus of visibility usual. As with most mines, the galleries were dug to follow ‘seams’ of ore and are formed in levels. The most common accessible, lined levels in Langban are 21m, 40m, 55m and 75m and the original miners’ maps have been reproduced and the guide lines added, making a dive simple. The levels are connected in several places, including the ‘Loka’ shaft that goes from its surface winch building (still intact and

Phil ready to dive

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www.narkedat90.com flight of wooden stairs to the 70m level before crossing a huge hall and entering the ‘Loka’ shaft at 80m and continuing to its base and the room beyond from there… and, of course, reversing the whole route and decompressing to return. The first phase of our set-up/build-up dives was to put all the gear the two of us would need into the mine and then make a series of dives to ‘stage’ the bailout and deco gases and lay the directional markers and jump lines at all junctions on the route. Next, we had to take air cylinders to fill the two decompression habitats ready for use. They hold their air for many days or weeks, but not forever, so occasionally need topping up. We do not breathe the habitat environment, rather we keep the CCR loop in the mouth throughout the deco, but being dry significantly increases the warmth, for example the 6m habitat with two divers in after about half an hour of deco has risen to 12 degrees C or more rather than the frigid 6 degrees C of the water. A huge difference on a four-plus hour run time! The bailout requirement necessitated five different Trimix blends plus pure Oxygen and several of the Trimix blends required two cylinders of each to allow safe bailout from a worse-case scenario of CCR failure at the furthest/ deepest point of penetration. This meant that Oscar and I had 14 x S-80 cylinders staged in the cave for the dive. We were carrying two to three at all times and at regular points swapped them out for the next most-suitable mixes. We also staged various other equipment including metal thermos flasks Mines are man made and of hot drinks

Habitat in the mine

preserved as part of the museum) to the water surface and then the elevator cables descend to the bottom at 130m. Other shafts including the last working shaft used up to the mine’s closure in 1972 descend beyond 300m. Personally I have been diving Langbans yearly for the last six or more years teaching CCR Mine, CCR Normoxic and Hypoxic Trimix classes and CCR Advanced Mine classes in DPV, Multi Stage and Cartography, as well as many fun dives. To me, I often say each year when I arrive back that I’m in my ‘happy place’ and it’s true - for me, it’s the best, most-preserved and varied artefact-rich mine I have been privileged to dive in. This year I had the opportunity to make seven days of personal dives at the mine between work commitments and classes, so my ‘buddy’ Oscar Svensson and I decided to plan, build up to and set up a dive we had both wanted to achieve for many years - the room at the base of the ‘Loka’ shaft at 130m. Now to dive that room did not involve a straightforward vertical descent from water surface to base, rather a complex route initially descending from the divers’ entrance to the 55m level, then a DPV journey through the tunnels to a descent following a

inherently present a higher risk environment than the vast majority of natural cave systems, which were formed over a long period of time and are thus far more stable.

Scootering through the mine

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beyond technical

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The water temperature is a constant 6 degrees C at all depths, so for Scandinavian mines in general ‘warm’, and crystal clear with ten metres plus of visibility usual for the 6m habitat (and a waterproof speaker and media player for music) and additional heating batteries for the heated undersuits. No plan is complete without a team and in the case of deeper Langbans dives, the rules require an in-water team to meet the ascending deep divers on ascent, a shallow water team to check on the divers in the 6m habitat and surface support throughout. The team we had on the weekend for the final set-up dive to 115m and the actual dive were simply marvellous and went above and beyond to support us in every way. This meant that as we ascended from the final dive, they could take no longer needed gear from us and remove it from the mine so at the end, the mine was clear and no further dives were required to ‘clear’ the mine. This did however mean the entrance platforms at the end of the dive were covered in more cylinders and regulators than a busy resort dive centre may need! So ready at last we descended, checked our staged Oxygen at the 6m habitat and continued down to the 50m level before starting the DPV run of 150 metres to the prelaid jump to descend a stairwell to the 70m level. Here is one of the most-spectacular sights I have ever seen in a mine, you enter a huge hall with the roof at around 65m and no floor in sight, just a black void below. To the right is a small tunnel, but to the left the tunnel exits onto a ‘hanging bridge’ supported over the void on chains from the wall and ceiling, which you DPV across to the far side of the hall. A further descent into the void beneath the bridge on a pre-laid line passed under an arch and enters the circular ‘Loka’ shaft, with the multiple elevator cables rising above and descending below you. Here we began the descent, A mine cart is just one of the artefacts

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Phil and Oscar celebrate the successful dive

passing the 115m area reached on the previous days set up and gradually approached the shaft base, where a huge elevator counter weight was reached at the end of the cables. A perfectly preserved wooden stairwell was found to lead off from the safe base with bannisters and rails leading down to a small room, the floor festooned with the detritus of a working mine and the tunnel leading from this room was sealed with a huge wooden wall with a small door on large orange (oxidised) iron hinges. This shaft was used to transport workers only to this level, when the archive maps are consulted, beyond this wall and door is a long access tunnel leading to the ‘Nya’ shaft that reaches the very base of the mine and all levels in between. A brief look, a little GoPro video captured and time to turn the dive with the TTS climbing rapidly. We reversed the route and picking up staged gases on route, headed up to our first deco stop at 57m and then every 3m from there up to our final 6m stop. At 18m we were able to enter our deep habitat, actually an airfield dome in the roof of the mine with a floating pontoon. Within the pontoon was an open centre (Moon Pool) with a submerged floor, and completed our 18m, 15m and half of our 12m stops. It’s a bit chilly when you leave the air habitat and re-enter the water but not for too long, as after the remainder of the 12m and the 9m stops we could enter the luxury of the seated 6m habitat where the long stop could be competed in relative comfort. These dives would simply not be safely possible without these habitat as in the event of a serious drysuit leak, in-water deco at this temperature to complete safe and efficient decompression would be unlikely. So once again, thank you to all the divers who helped on all the build-up dives and offered their support, it simply wouldn’t have happened without them. An incredible opportunity to learn more and see an additional part of this fascinating time capsule on industrial srchaeology hidden in the Swedish forest. n

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Deborah Dickson-Smith showcases several resorts and organisations running conservation projects throughout Malaysia Photographs by Christian Loader Photography

Gaya Island Resort has a marine biologist and a naturalist onsite, who are both working tirelessly to ensure the conservation of local wildlife in and around the resort, working in conjunction with the Sabah Wildlife Department 48

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Helping baby turtles make it into the wilds

Once the coral has recovered, the team replant them in the Marine Park Tending to transplanted corals

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cross Malaysia there are many dive resorts running marine conservation projects, protecting, conserving, and advocating for the country’s biodiverse marine environment that divers love so much. Like many places in the world, Malaysian resorts are battling plastic pollution, overfishing and the degradation of coral reefs. So, it’s wonderful to see so many programs addressing these problems in Malaysia.

Tanjong Jara Resort, Terangganu

The Lang Tengah Turtle Watch Conservation Initiative, supported by YTL Hotels Tanjong Jara Resort, was founded in 2016, to help ensure that the new generations make it out to sea. Volunteers join organisers to guard turtle nests and protect them from poachers. Volunteers pay around US$240 a week to participate, which covers accommodation, food, project training and a few other leisure activities. The resort has also organised beach clean ups with help from local schools and community along the 3.2km stretch of coastline fronting Tanjong Jara Resort. langtengahturtlewatch.org | tanjongjararesort.com

Gaya Island Resort, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

Gaya Island Resort has a marine biologist and a naturalist onsite, who are both working tirelessly to ensure the conservation of local wildlife in and around the resort, working in conjunction with the Sabah Wildlife Department. The resort has developed a programme to rescue, rehabilitate and release sea turtles back into the ocean, providing turtles with a safe environment to recover and be treated by the founder and executive director of the nonprofit Marine Research Foundation, Nicholas Pilcher. The marine centre’s coral nursery was created in conjunction with Reef Check Malaysia to rehabilitate and safeguard the reef in the Marine Park that surrounds Gaya Island. The team collects broken or nonviable coral fragments, attaches them to coral blocks or artificial reef structures and takes them to the nursery where they can be monitored as they recover and grow. Once the coral has recovered, the team replant them in the Marine Park to assimilate with the healthy coral. gayaislandresort.com

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Scuba Junkie Dive Resort, Mabul Island and Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

Scuba Junkie has two eco-resorts in Malaysia, in Kota Kinabalu and on Mabul Island, with three more in Indonesia. These all provide funding for the company’s dedicated conservation arm: Scuba Junkie SEAS. Scuba Junkie SEAS has set up many projects in Sabah, including turtle and shark conservation, coral reef restoration, projects tackling marine debris, community outreach and education, and the resort itself is built sustainably to be as eco-friendly as possible. The organisation’s work is divided into six major programs: eco-resort, shark conservation, turtle conservation, coral conservation, marine debris and outreach activities. On Mabul Island, the resort runs Mabul Turtle Hatchery, which since 2011 has released over 17,000 hatchlings, and Mabul Turtle Rehabilitation Centre, which cares for injured turtles in collaboration with Sabah Wildlife Department (SWD) and since 2015 has successfully re-released 15 turtles after recovering from various injuries and illness. The resort also provides waste management for the stateless Bajau Laut (sea gypsy) community next door and pays a reward for the discovery of a turtle nest so that it can be re-located to the safety of their hatchery. scubajunkieseas.org Turtle hatchling

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Tropical Research and Conservation Centre (TRACC): Pom Pom Island, Sabah

TRACC has several ongoing marine conservation projects that help coral reefs recover from human impacts including plastic pollution and blast fishing, that divers are invited to contribute to. The organisation also has programmes that address invasive crown of thorn sea stars, as well as monitoring turtle populations and protecting turtle nests from poachers. The main challenge to coral growth on Pom Pom Island is the coral rubble left behind by blast fishing, which baby corals have difficulty attaching themselves to, so the project’s aim to stabilise the slope, build new reef as well as grow new coral. The sloping rubble is stabilised with soft coral nets, which slows the rubble movement and which the turtles do not destroy. They then plant soft corals and sponges on the nets to hold the rubble together. tracc.org

Malaysia’s Marine Conservation Organisations

As well as the good work done by Malaysia’s dive resorts, there are several NGOs and government-funded organisations helping to conserve the country’s marine environment. • Reef Guardian is a non-profit company appointed by the State Government of Sabah to manage Sugud Islands Marine Conservation Area (SIMCA). Reefguardian.com.my • Kudat Turtle Conservation Society is working to conserve and improve Kudat (Sabah) turtle populations through public education and awareness programs. ktcsborneo.wixsite.com/ktcsborneo • The Marine Research Foundation is a research and conservation organisation based in Sabah established to improve understanding of marine ecosystems and their associated diverse flora and fauna, managing several projects researching coral reef and seagrass ecosystems, turtles, dugongs, sharks, and rays. mrf-asia.org • Reef Check Malaysia is working towards sustainable management of coral reefs in Malaysia. We bring together stakeholders to collaborate on coral reef monitoring, management, research and conservation, and advocacy. Reefcheck.org.my • Ocean Quest. Founded in Malaysia in 2010 by Anuar Abdullah, Ocean Quest Global is an environmental organisation at work in seven countries through Southeast Asia focussing on coral restoration. With support from Sea Shepherd, Ocean Quest runs workshops and training courses in Kuala Lumpur, Pulau Gelok and Pulau Tioman. oceanquest.global

Underwater clean-up Vibrant reef free from plastic debris

Sorting turtle eggs

A massive haul from a beach clean-up

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Scuba Diver’s Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock ventures into the waters off Nelson Bay, which as he explains, is critter central for those in the know Photographs by Don Silcock

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Muck diving gets its name from the sediment that lies at the bottom of many dive sites - a frequently muddy or ‘mucky’ environment. Muck dive substrate can also consist of dead coral, discarded fishing gear and other man-made garbage.

Just north of those ledges and in about 16m of water is my favourite part of Fly Point, the rich and incredibly beautiful sponge gardens!

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very region seems to have at least one… In Indonesia it would have to be the Lembeh Strait in North Sulawesi, and in Papua New Guinea, it’s either Dinah’s Beach or Samarai Jetty in Milne Bay, while over in Florida, it is West Palm Beach’s Blue Heron Bridge. Here in New South Wales, it’s Nelson Bay - the wonderfully picturesque town located on the southern shore of Port Stephens, about an hour north of Newcastle on the state’s central coast. We are talking renowned critter sites… where the smaller, colourful, and incredibly photogenic creatures of the oceans seem to gather. And concentrated in a relatively small area along Nelson Bay’s foreshore are a couple of exceptional sites that showcase the wonderful temperate and tropical marine diversity of eastern Australia. Toadfish

Port Stephens 101

Located some 220km north of Sydney, Port Stephens is a large, drowned-valley estuary that covers a total area of some 134 km2 – almost 2.5 times larger than Sydney Harbour! There are many things that are special about Port Stephens, but let’s start with its geomorphology… the shape and structure of the two large lobes, or ports, that make up the bay area, together with the relatively narrow and shallow mouth of the estuary where it discharges into the Tasman Sea. The bay is divided roughly into two by the Soldiers Point peninsular. And the inner, western port is the immediate catchment area for the large fresh-water Karuah River that rises in the Barrington Tops National Park and means the west port has a mainly estuarine ecology. The outer, eastern port receives most of its water from the twice-daily incoming tides from the Tasman Sea and therefore has a predominantly marine ecology. With a maximum depth of just 40m, abundant sunshine and a benign, sheltered location, Port Stephens provides a superb environment for biodiversity to thrive. With studies showing that it is home to over 400 species of fish, 200 plus species of nudibranchs, plus numerous cuttlefish, octopus and squid together with rich sponge gardens and temperate water soft corals. But the real key to understanding why Port Stephens has some incredible biodiversity hotspots are those incoming waters from the Tasman Sea…

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The EAC MixMaster!

Usually referred to by its acronym, the EAC forms in northern Queensland where the Pacific Ocean’s Southern Equatorial Current (SEC) meets the continental shelf and splits into two, with the southern split becoming the Eastern Australian Current and then surging down the east coast of the continent. The EAC is both the largest and strongest movement of water in Australia and, at times, is up to 100km wide, 500m deep and reaches speeds of almost four knots. Although not particularly rich in nutrients, it does however transport huge quantities of warm water from the north. And where those waters meet the colder ones from the south, it creates the basic mechanism that enables rich biodiversity – upwellings… Virtually everything that dies in the sea descends to the bottom, where it decomposes and creates a dense, rich layer of phosphorous and nitrogen-based nutrients. When warm surface waters are displaced by wind or currents, they are replaced with cold water rising from the depths, which suck up those rich nutrients. The Tasman Sea between south-east Australia and New Zealand is where the warm waters of the EAC meet the cold ones from the south, creating ‘eddy fields’ which are at their most-active offshore from northern NSW. This places Port Stephens right in the eye of an incredible hydrodynamic phenomenon and those twice daily incoming tides deliver a potent brew of nutrients from the deep, mixed with the northern tropical and southern temperate larvae of eastern Australia.

Nelson Bay 101…

If you stand on Nelson Head, with the old lighthouse behind you and look down at the east port of Port Stephens, the wonder of this special part of NSW is displayed before you in all its scenic splendour! But look closer, down at the waters flowing into the east port and you will start to understand why certain parts of Nelson Bay have such incredible biodiversity. The bathymetry (underwater landscape) of Port Stephens is a complex thing, with large areas of shallow sand banks and deeper channels. Those rich tidal waters will always follow the path of least resistance through the channels and the deepest one is right in front of you. Because of its huge size, complex bathymetry and relatively narrow and shallow estuary mouth, the tidal flows in and out of Port Stephens are fierce and positively dangerous if underestimated. Viewed at their peak, as they surge around Nelson Head, those tides are an awesome

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sight to behold. After rounding Nelson Head they flow along the southern shore of the east port, past the small bays that are home to the biodiversity hotspots Nelson Bay is renowned for. That flow of tidal water creates eddies which deliver the rich nutrients and larvae to the hotspots enabling them to thrive and pulse with biodiversity!

2021 floods

Over a period of several days in March this year, NSW experienced some of the heaviest rainfall on record and in the Port Stephens area 457mm fell in just three days - the highest total recorded since records were first taken in 1889. Such a massive volume of fresh water, carrying with it large amounts of pesticides and herbicides, dramatically changed both the chemical composition and salinity of the water flowing through Port Stephens. The result was an almost ‘neutron bomb-like’ destruction of all marine life down to about 6m depth! Thankfully, the marine life down deeper was not severely impacted as the lighter fresh water floated as a layer on top of the denser sea water…

Worse still would be diving on a falling tide and the very real risk of being taken out to sea!


A face only a mother could love!

Don Silcock

Scuba Diver’s Senior Travel Editor, in more normal times, Don is based on Bali in Indonesia, but is currently hunkered down in Sydney rediscovering Australian diving… His website has extensive location guides, articles and images on some of the best diving locations in the Indo-Pacific region and ‘big animal’ experiences globally. www.indopacificimages.com Nudibranchs of all shapes and sizes

Healthy reefs await

Initially, at least, there was great concern that the damage was so bad recovery was out of the question. But nature is a powerful thing, and the signs are very positive that the balance will be restored and by next year much of that marine growth will have returned.

Diving Nelson Bay

There are three well-known hotspots along that southern shore – Halifax Park, Pipeline and Fly Point. Halifax Park - This site was generally considered as one of the very best shores dives in Australia, because of its stunning sponge gardens and the extraordinary amount of marine life to be found there. Then sadly from around 2005, the sand came… Divers noted increasing amounts of sand being deposited on the shallower parts of the site and then over a number of years much of those incredible gardens. Rarely dived these days, Halifax is a distant shadow of its former self and the whole topic of where the sand came from is a very emotive subject in Nelson Bay. One school of thought being that the over-development along the southern

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shore is causing it. The alternate view being ‘shifting sands’ are a natural phenomenon in estuaries like Port Stephens, which is why dredging is often required. One thing is very clear though… those shifting sands have effectively decimated one of the underwater wonders of Nelson Bay! Pipeline - Located near the breakwall of the Nelson Bay marina, this site takes its name from the disused former sewerage pipe which extends well out into the east lobe of Port Stephens. It enjoys a stellar reputation as great place to see and photograph an incredible number of critters such as numerous species of nudibranchs, pipefish, seahorses, eels and the occasional weird and wonderful tropical critters! Steps and concrete steps have been provided just to the east of the disused sewer pipe to make entry to the site easy and swimming over to it provides an excellent way to initially navigate around the extended area. The pipe heads out straight north and following it out and back again will ensure you don’t get lost as you get to know the lay of the land!

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The area is fringed by sandy beachea

Fly Point - Opinions vary on whether this is the best site in Nelson Bay, but for me there is no argument… Fly Point is located at the northern end of Little Nelson Bay and the main area of the site is around the rocky point and in the small bay just to the east. There are a few ways to dive Fly Point, but they all involve the same initial swim straight north past the 4m wall at about 20 metres out, and then over the second slightly deeper wall another 20 metres on. At this point you will be in about 6m of water, and you can either turn left and head west along that ledge which will take you to the tip of the rocky point. On the way there is much to explore in the kelp and in the nooks and crevices of the wall. This is definitely the best option if you have not dived Fly Point before as the navigation skills required are minimal and yet there is still a great deal of marine life to see. Or you can take the more adventurous option and keep going north till you are in 12m and then turn left to head west towards the rocky point. On the way you will find series of ledges, also in about 12m, where there is almost always a lot of fish patrolling mid-water. While under the ledge are a plethora of bethnic species plus shy creatures like pineapplefish. Just north of those ledges and in about 16m of water is my favourite part of Fly Point, the rich and incredibly beautiful sponge gardens! While the sponges themselves are prolific and very photogenic, they are also host to a great variety of fish and critters and spending time there is basically why I like Nelson Bay so much!

Mentioned in Dispatches…

Special thanks to Meryl Larkin and Tom Davis of the DPI, along with Tim Austin of UNSW for helping me to better understand the complexity of Port Stephens!

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How to Dive Nelson Bay

All the main sites in Nelson Bay are shore dives with easy entry and exits, especially at Fly Point and the Pipeline where there are excellent steps and railings provided - no scrambling over rocks required. The main danger is the tides and the only real option being to dive at high tide as trying to do so on a rising tide exposes you to the strong risk of being swept into the busy main channel and taken into the bay. Worse still would be diving on a falling tide and the very real risk of being taken out to sea! Most of the local divers opt for Sydney’s Fort Denson tide tables, because of the time lag with the Port Stephens table and gets you in the water just before the peak, giving you the optimum time in the water. There are two local dive shops – Let’s Go Adventures and Feet First Dive - both of which know the area extremely well and can provide all the support you might need to dive these waters safely.

In Summary

Nelson Bay is for me a really special place – relatively close to Sydney, but far enough away to have its own personality. The whole Port Stephens area is wonderfully scenic and very photogenic. Add in the great diving and it’s very easy to see why it is so popular. Dived at high tide, both Pipeline and Fly Point offer some of the best shore diving in NSW! n

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Each issue, the Scuba Diver test team bring you the latest product and equipment releases from the dive industry. Cannot wait for the next edition? Keep up-to-date with all the latest gear news and reviews by heading over to the Scuba Diver YouTube channel! www.youtube.com/ScubaDiverMagazine

AQUALUNG XSCAPE 3/4MM | SRP: AUD$650

According to Aqualung, the Xscape wetsuits ‘offer enhanced comfort for warm waters between 20-28 degrees C’, and ‘due to the flexible and lightweight material can be used for snorkelling, freediving, paddling and any other ocean sport’. The big thing about the Xscape wetsuits is that they are not made from neoprene – instead, they are constructed from Yulex, a composite material made of a natural rubber, laminated with water-based glue and a fabric made of recycled plastic bottles. Could this be the ultimate ecofriendly wetsuit? A ThermoShield chest panel with an inner fleece layer provides additional warmth around the torso, while Supratex kneepads provide high abrasion resistance combined with excellent flexibility. The rear zipper is made with a double flap and silicone seals at the wrists and ankles help prevent flushing. The Xscape come in male and female variants, and both suits certainly stand out from the crowd. The men’s suit is an unusual green combined with vivid red, with some cool detailing under the arms of tropical leaves and branches. There are Storm fins and a Plazma mask in this green colour scheme to match. The women’s suit is predominantly a deep blue, with turquoise and white detailing on the right lower leg and upper body and arms. The tropical leaves and branches from the men’s suit are incorporated here, but in a far-morevisible fashion. The Xscape wetsuits come in plastic-free packaging – instead a handy mesh bag, which can be used for transporting your wetsuit or for collecting rubbish off the beach - and have hangtags made from recycled cardboard. www.aqualung.com

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FOURTH ELEMENT GULPER SRP: AUD$35.90-$44.90 Fourth Element has expanded its lineup of OceanPositive Gulper bottles with the addition of two new colour options and an insulated lid. Every adventurer needs a canteen of water. The Gulper is more than just your everyday water bottle though. Stainless steel double wall vacuum insulation means that iced drinks stay cool for up to 24 hours and a hot drink will stay that way for up to 12 hours. The versatile BPA-free lid means you can drink on the go thanks to the twist and sip valve, and the wide aperture makes filling and cleaning quick, simple and spill-free. The Gulper comes into two sizes – 500ml and 900ml. The existing turquoise 900ml version has been joined by a blue colour, and the black 500ml by a bright orange version. Fourth Element has also launched an insulated lid that fits all models of Gulper. This new lid features a pivoted stainless steel handle to provide a flexible carrying option. www.fourthelement.com

INON Z-330 TYPE2 AND D-200 TYPE2 STROBES SRP: AUD$949-$1,049 Inon has announced the official release of the Z-330 Type2 and D-200 Type2 strobes. The Type2 strobes are equipped with newly designed fly-eye dome lens capable of suppressing uneven light distribution to deliver ideal circular lighting. The INON Z-330 Type2 provides powerful Guide Number 33, high performance and multifunction in its compact body. The high-performance fly-eye dome lens provides both powerful light output not sacrificed by a diffuser, etc, and 110 degree underwater beam angle with minimal unevenness in light distribution. The newly designed dome lens has carefully arranged flyeye inner surface, which suppress uneven lighting without sacrificing strobe power and beam angle (110 degree underwater) generated by INON-patented T-configuration flash tubes. INON products are sold and distributed in Australia through Underwater Australasia. www.underwater.com.au

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Each issue, the Scuba Diver test team bring you the latest product and equipment releases from the dive industry. Cannot wait for the next edition? Keep up-to-date with all the latest gear news and reviews by heading over to the Scuba Diver YouTube channel! www.youtube.com/ScubaDiverMagazine

MARES HORIZON | SRP: AUD$6,590 Nicolas Remy: When Mares acquired rEvo Rebreathers in 2016, speculations went on about how Mares might leverage the expertise which rEvo had with technical rebreathers. Being a rEvo diver myself (and a big fan) since 2011, this move certainly picked my curiosity. The announcement came in 2019 - Mares revealed the Horizon, a recreational rebreather with rEvo similarities (back-mounted, clear chest, dual scrubbers) but also new features not found in existing recreational or technical rebreathers. I was very keen to try it, and the opportunity finally came in 2021. In this initial review, I will share my thoughts on the design and key differences I see vs other types of rebreathers, based on eight hours diving the Horizon. In an upcoming article, I will cover the certification process and share more detailed observations, as I will grow more familiar with Horizon. How does the Horizon compare with traditional scuba? Being a rebreather, the Horizon allows breathing again and again from the same gas, granting its user much more bottom time out of a given tank. Mares claims three to eight times more bottom time, which sounds right based on my initial dives and calculations. Rebreathing also means very few bubbles are released in the water (from the Horizon’s top cover, on the diver’s back), and there is no second stage regulator noise - all this helps getting closer to shy marine life. Another advantage of rebreathing is that your buoyancy doesn’t change as you inhale/exhale. This can be disconcerting at first (no more hopping up/down just by breath control), but advantageous over time - as a photographer, I don’t need to hold my breath anymore! Comfort is also enhanced as you breathe a warmer gas than the cold air coming from a tank. It helps keeping warmer on longer/colder dives. Finally, it is worth noting the Horizon is limited to 40m depth - visual and acoustic alarms will ensure you don’t forget! How does the Horizon compare with existing rebreathers? Firstly, let’s name the two types of rebreathers on the market. Their main difference is how oxygen molecules get added into the rebreather, to replace those consumed by the divers’ breathing: CCR (Closed Circuit Rebreather): a pure oxygen tank adds just the amount of oxygen consumed, meaning there is no extra gas to dump, no bubbles produced. SCR (Semi Closed Rebreather): a nitrox tank continuously

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delivers nitrox gas into the rebreather (controlled flow). More gas is added than what the body consumed, so bubbles are released in the water. The Horizon is a hybrid SCR, a different beast which complements a fixed nitrox flow with an electronically controlled valve, adding more nitrox as the diver’s oxygen consumption rises (varies with dive conditions and efforts). Consequently, the gas economy is better than traditional SCRs, but not as minimal as CCRs. Assume I dive at 30m for 30 minutes, in relaxed conditions, so my body only consumes one litre/minute of oxygen molecules. On traditional scuba, if my air consumption is 15 litres/minute (surface equivalent), I will consume 1,800-litres of Nx32 over those ten minutes, or 120 bars on a 15-litre tank. On my rEvo CCR, those 30 minutes will cost me only 30 litres of pure oxygen. Configuring my Horizon to breathe Nx32, those 30 minutes will take 255 litres of gas, or 17 bars on a

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Each issue, the Scuba Diver test team bring you the latest product and equipment releases from the dive industry. Cannot wait for the next edition? Keep up-to-date with all the latest gear news and reviews by heading over to the Scuba Diver YouTube channel! www.youtube.com/ScubaDiverMagazine

MARES HORIZON | SRP: AUD$6,590

15-litre tank (or 37b on a seven-litre tank). In this example, the Horizon requires seven times less gas than traditional scuba. If we were at 10m depth instead, the Horizon and the rEvo CCR would consume the same, but on traditional scuba I would burn only 900 litres. Meaning at 10m, the Horizon would be 3.5 times better than regular scuba. CCRs are best at optimizing decompression - they deliver the ideal Nitrox at any depth, continuously mixing gas from air and oxygen tanks. SCRs, however, deliver just one Nitrox mix for the whole dive - a standard Nitrox dive computer or nitrox tables can be used. Horizon is the only SCR able to use a second Nitrox gas (optional) to further improve decompression - you could breathe Nx32 at depth and switch to your ‘deco tank’ as you ascend to 12m, breathing Nx70. Rebreathers are supposed to deliver the true silent world (arguably, the noise of a second stage regulator is all but silent!). This fully applies to CCRs, which produce zero bubbles at constant depth, whereas the Horizon will always produce a small bubble flow, but it does remove the

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regulator noise. I certainly found the Horizon quieter to dive. Safety-wise, the Horizon beats CCRs - no risk of hyperoxia, which has been the cause for multiple CCR fatalities over time. Chances of hypoxia are also virtually gone on the Horizon (unlike most SCRs) - if electronics were all failing, the nitrox flow would deliver 30-litres nitrox/minute, ensuring enough oxygen supply. Hypercapnia is the only rebreather risk that remains (if the CO2 absorbent was improperly set-up) but the five minute pre-breathe allows detecting CO2 filtering issues before diving. Talking procedures, I found Horizon simpler to set-up and maintain than the two CCRs I have used, especially the daily clean-up, which I found twice faster. Horizon is also easier to dive than CCRs - a CCR requires the diver to vent excess gas whenever ascending, which is easily forgotten and makes buoyancy control challenging in

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the shallows. As an SCR though, the breathing loop always has the same volume, so once the diver is stable, the only way to change depth is to swim up, down, or add/drop gas from the wing or drysuit. I am yet to travel with the Horizon, but I anticipate it to be easy - its transportation weight is 13.4kg (14.8 if bringing the second regulator) and it can be used with any tank size available to rent. All it takes is the dive centre to offer Nitrox fills (minimum 30 percent). Regarding CO2 absorbent, the Horizon is so economical (three-plus hours diving on just 1kg of sorb) that you could fly with 10-12 hours worth of diving (or order it in advance). Pricewise, it is no secret that rebreathers are expensive pieces of kit, yet the Horizon is one of the most-affordable units in the market, selling for half the price of its CCR brother, the rEvo. It is worth noting as well that some dive centres and liveaboards are now offering rentals. All-in-one, I am finding Horizon very enjoyable to dive. It doesn’t give me all the benefits of my full-blown technical

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CCR, but it is safer, much simpler to use and twice as cheap, making it a very tempting option for whoever wants to extend their bottom time or enjoy quieter dives. www.mares.com For more images from Nicolas and Lena, visit their website: www.nicolaslenaremy.com or follow them on Instagram and Facebook @nicolaslenaremy

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AUSTRALIA NEW SOUTH WALES

QUEENSLAND

DIVE EDEN

BUNDABERG AQUA SCUBA

t: 04 1002 6990 e: diveeden@gmail.com Guided dives of the wrecks, vibrant wharves and shoreline in Eden, Merimbula and Tathra. Scuba and Freediving courses are available. www.diveeden.com.au

t: 07 4153 5761 e: Julian@aquascuba.com.au a: 17 Walla Street, Bundaberg, QLD, 4670 Bundaberg has world class wreck diving sites, access to the Southern Great Barrier Reef and the best coral reef shore diving in Queensland. www.aquascuba.com.au

FEET FIRST DIVE t: 02 4984 2092 e: enquiries@feetfirstdive.com.au a: 97 Stockton St, Nelson Bay, NSW, 2315 SDI/TDI SCUBA, Snorkelling, & Spearfishing Retail & Training Centre. Shore dives in marine sanctuary, grey nurse shark double boat dives. www.feetfirstdive.com.au

LETS GO ADVENTURES t: 02 4981 4331 e: fun@letsgoadventures.com.au a: Shop 8W, d’Albora Marina, Teramby Rd, Nelson Bay, NSW, 2315 PADI facility Introductory dives through to Instructor Courses. Guided shore & boat trips for divers & snorkellers. Retail Sales & Servicing. www.letsgoadventures.com.au

SCUBA HAVEN t: 0407 457 542 e: info@scubahaven.com.au a: 20 Merrigal Rd, Port Macquarie, NSW, 2444 SCUBA Diving Port Macquarie and Laurieton Areas. Offering Dive trips, Courses, Introductory dives, Sales and services. www.scubahaven.com.au

SOUTH WEST ROCKS DIVE CENTRE t: +612 6566 6474 e: info@swrdive.com.au a: 98 Gregory Street, South West Rocks, NSW Australia’s best Shark and Cave dive. Family owned and operated for over 40 Years. swrdive.com.au

ST GEORGE UNDERWATER CENTRE t: 61 2 9502 2221 e: info@stgeorgeunderwater.com.au a: 1/148 Bellevue Parade, Carlton, NSW, 2218 We have been in the industry for over 62 years. We are a TDI SDI 5 star training centre. We service, train and travel. www.stgeorgeunderwater.com.au

WINDANG DIVE & SPEARFISHING t: 02 4296 4215 e: info@windangdive.com.au a: Shop 1, 239 Windang Road, Windang, NSW, 2528 Scuba Diving Courses to Instructor. Spearfishing needs and servicing of all brands of scuba and spearfishing. www.windangdive.com.au

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SOUTH AUSTRALIA RODNEY FOX SHARK EXPEDITIONS t: 08 8363 1788 e: expeditions@rodneyfox.com.au a: 107 Henley Beach Road, Mile End, SA, 5031 Great white sharks, SCUBA, Ocean Floor Cage, Surface Cage, Australian Sea Lions and our own wine all on the 32m liveaboard MV Rodney Fox! www.rodneyfox.com.au

LADY ELLIOT ISLAND ECO RESORT t: +61 7 5536 3644 e: reservations@ladyelliot.com.au a: Lady Elliot Island, Southern Great Barrier Reef, QLD Lady Elliot Island ‘Home of the Manta Ray’ boasts 20 incredible dive sites and is renowned for amazing marine encounters. www.ladyelliot.com.au

MANTA LODGE AND SCUBA CENTRE t: 07 34098888 e: info@mantalodge.com.au a: 132 Dickson way, Point Lookout, QLD 4183 Amazing diving all year round. Manta Rays, Sharks, turtles and whales along with a huge variety of marine life. www.mantalodge.com.au

PASSIONS OF PARADISE t: 07 4041 1600 e: Reservations@passions.com.au a: Reef Fleet Terminal, 1 Spence Street, Cairns, QLD Dive, snorkel and sail the Great Barrier Reef from Cairns onboard a sailing catamaran with locally owned Passions of Paradise. www.passions.com.au

SCUBA WORLD t: 07 5444 8595 e: info@scubaworld.com.au a: 207 Brisbane Road, Mooloolaba, 4557 QLD, Australia We create safe, comfortable, enthusiastic divers who always have a fun, personal and enjoyable experience at Scuba World. scubaworld.com.au

TASMANIA EAGLEHAWK DIVE CENTRE t: 0417013518 e: info@eaglehawkdive.com.au a: 178 Pirates Bay Drive, Eaglehawk Neck, TAS, 7179 We have world-class temperate water diving, with sites suitable for divers with skill levels from novice to advanced technical. www.eaglehawkdive.com.au

WESTERN AUSTRALIA OCTOPUS GARDEN DIVE CHARTERS t: 0438925011 e: kimroyce@gateway.net.au a: Casuarina Boat Harbour, Bunbury, Western Australia, 6230 Wreck & reef diving (small groups, min 2/max 11). Photographers paradise. Hire gear available. Prolific fish life. 10-18 metres. www.octopusgardendivecharters.com.au

SOUTHCOAST DIVING SUPPLIES t: 08 98417176 e: whale@divealbany.com.au a: 84b Serpentine Road, Albany, Western Australia, 6330 Diving Albany means diving anything from wrecks to reef, plunging drop offs to awesome canyons with unbelievable colours and fishlife. www.divealbany.com.au

VICTORIA ALL ABOUT SCUBA t: (03) 9939 4913 e: info@allaboutscuba.com.au a: Unit 17/30-34 Maffra Street, Coolaroo, Victoria, 3048 A fully equipped SCUBA service centre with a passion for servicing so we can safely explore the underwater world! www.allaboutscuba.com.au

DIVE GEAR AUSTRALIA t: 03 9702 3694 e: sales@divegearaustralia.com.au a: 11/53-57 Rimfire Drive, Hallam, Victoria, 3803 DGA is a PADI 5 star training dive store with a huge range of scuba diving, snorkelling and spearfishing gear. www.divegearaustralia.com.au

SCUBA CULTURE PTY LTD t: 03 9808 0033 e: info@scubaculture.com.au a: 117 Highbury Road, Burwood, Victoria 3125 Full service dive shop providing equipment sales, service, hire, training, dive club, dive travel and air/ nitrox fills. www.scubaculture.com.au

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NEW ZEALAND SOUTHLAND

AUCKLAND AQUATECH

WAIHEKE DIVE & SNORKEL

t: +64 2156 3563 e: servicing1@yahoo.com a: 4 WOULDBANK Way, Welcome Bay Aquatech is a scuba service centre. We service scuba regulators / full face masks / oxygen regulators. Underwater Scooters. www.aquatech.kiwi.nz

t: +64 9217 4892 e: info@waihekedive.com a: 110 Ocean View Road, Oneroa, Waiheke Island, Auckland, NZ, 1081 NZ’s most fun little dive shop! We’re your choice for online retail, diving & snorkeling adventures – just 35 mins from Auckland CBD! www.waihekedive.com

DESCEND NZ – MILFORD SOUND t: +64 (0)27 337 2363 e: info@descend.co.nz a: Deepwater Basin Milford Sound – bookings essential Dive in the majestic and unique Milford Sound where deepwater species such as black coral live in diveable depths. www.descend.co.nz

DIVE DOCTOR t: +09 530 8117 e: info@divedoctor.co.nz a: 20R Sylvia Park Rd, Mt Wellington. (1 min off the M’way) Scuba servicing centre – all brands. Wide range of products and hard to find items instore and online. 300 Bar fills, NITROX, O2. Quality dive training. www.divedoctor.co.nz

DIVING ACADEMY LTD (AUCKLAND SCUBA) t: +64 9478 2814 e: info@aucklandscuba.co.nz a: 49B Arrenway Drive, Auckland 5* PADI centre, beginner to Instructor courses (student loan approved), quality equipment retail, rebreathers, scooters, dive trips, servicing, air fills. www.aucklandscuba.co.nz

GLOBAL DIVE t: +64 9920 5200 e: info@globaldive.net a: 132 Beaumont Street, Westhaven, Auckland, 1010, New Zealand NZ’s Premium Dive Store. Leaders in Training, Servicing and Travel. Home of Fourth Element, OMS, Shearwater, XDeep, Light&Motion, DUI, Cinebags. www.globaldive.net

KIWI DIVERS NZ LTD t: 09 426 9834 e: info@kiwiscubadivers.co.nz a: 8 Keith Hay Court, Silverdale, Auckland, New Zealand Air, Nitrox & Trimix fills. SSI & TDI Rec, Tech & Rebreather courses. 2 dive boats. Brands: Hollis, Oceanic, Zeagle, Atomic, Bare/Stahlsac service centre. www.kiwiscubadivers.co.nz

ADVERTISE YOUR BUSINESS HERE NEXT ISSUE! Contact Adrian on +61 422 611 238 or email adrian@scubadivermag.com

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CANTERBURY DIVE HQ CHRISTCHURCH t: +64 3379 5804 e: sales@divehqscuba.co.nz a: 103 Durham Street South, Sydenham, Christchurch South Island’s Premium Dive Centre, Specialists in Scuba Diving, Spearfishing & Freediving. Brands: Hollis, Oceanic, Atomic, Zeagle, Beuchat, Bare & Rob Allen. www.divehqscuba.co.nz

MARLBOROUGH GO DIVE PACIFIC t: 0274 344 874 e: info@godivepacific.nz a: 66 Wellington Street, Picton, Marlborough, New Zealand Dive one of the biggest cruise ship wrecks in the world, the Mikhail Lermontov, suitable for recreational to advanced technical divers. www.godivepacific.co.nz

WAIKATO DIVE ZONE WHITIANGA t: +64 7867 1580 e: info@divethecoromandel.co.nz a: 10 Campbell Street, Whitianga 3510, New Zealand Dive charters, training, service and retail store. Many and varied dive spots. Beautiful coastal town location. Offshore islands & Marine Reserve. www.divezonewhitianga.co.nz

WELLINGTON DIVE WELLINGTON t: 04 939 3483 e: dive@divewellington.co.nz a: 432 The Esplanade Island Bay, Wellington, New Zealand Wellington’s Padi 5 Star Centre, right across the road from Taputeranga Marine Reserve. Come and dive or snorkel with us. www.divewellington.co.nz

NORTHLAND DIVE NOW t: 09 438 1075 e: info@divenow.co.nz a: 41 Clyde St, Whangarei We’re Northland’s largest SCUBA, Spearfishing & Freedive retail store offering great deals on gear along with SCUBA and Freedive courses. www.divenow.co.nz

SEX ON THE REEF

KNOW THE LOCALS

JEAN-PIERRE NATHRASS MEETS THE FRIENDLY NATIVES IN RAJA AMPAT

MASS CORAL THE ANNUAL SHARKS WOLF ROCK’S WORK YOUR SUBJECT SPAWNING GREAT ON THE GETS STACEY ADRIAN

MARTYN GUESS SHOWS HOW TO GET THE MOST OUT OF PHOTO DIVES

HARRY

JOHN MAGEE ENCOUNTERS A RARE FIND ON THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

SUBAQUA DIVE CENTRE t: 09 988 9508 e: subaquadivecentrenz@gmail.com a: 108 Cameron Street, Whangarei, NZ Friendliest dive shop in town. Stocker of Hollis, Ratio Dive computers, Atomic Aquatics, Bare, Oceanic and Zeagle. www.facebook.com/subaquadivewhangarei

Here come the

SPIDERS MELBOURNE'S MEGA SPIDER CRAB AGGREGATIONS

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CONSERVATION

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DIVING OF THE DIVING NEW IRELAND OVERVIEW DON SILCOCK ON BALI OPTIONSVISITS PNG’S PROVINCE OF NEW IRELAND

NURSE SHARKS

HAIRY

PAIHIA DIVE t: +64 9402 7551 e: info@divenz.com a: 7 Williams Rd, Paihia 0247, New Zealand We run daily trips to the Canterbury wreck, The Rainbow Warrior wreck and reef sites in the Bay of Islands. www.divenz.com

REEF BARRIER WITH GREY UP CLOSE

SHOOTING NAPOLEON HINTS AND ADVICE ON PHOTOGRAPHING THESE CHARISMATIC FISH

LADY ELLIOT ISLAND WHY THERE IS MORE TO THIS ISLAND THAN JUST MANTA RAYS

UNDERWATER TOUR AWARDS

THE GURU GRAND PRIZE WINNER REVEALED

MONSTER

TRACKING

WHALESHARK TAGGING IN THE GALAPAGOS

SEAHORSE WHISPERER

IN CONVERSATION WITH DR RICHARD SMITH NICOLAS REMY EXPLAINS WHY THIS HOME-GROWN HOTSPOT SHOULD NOT BE OVERLOOKED

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WWF sharks and rays extinction by overfishing Time is running out to save sharks and rays, with over a third of species pushed toward extinction by overfishing

A

major study re-assessing the IUCN Red List status for all sharks, rays and chimeras reveals that over 1/3 of all these species are now at risk of extinction caused by overfishing. Governments and regional fisheries bodies must act now to stop overfishing and prevent a global extinction crisis. The experts found that ​the number of threatened species has doubled since the last global study, while the number of endangered and critically endangered species has more than tripled. Three species have been classified as ‘possibly extinct’, not having been recorded for 80 years on average. All threatened sharks and rays are being depleted by overfishing, with habitat loss and destruction and climate change compounding the risks, affecting 1 in 3 and 1 in 10 species respectively. Dr Andy Cornish, leader of WWF’s global shark and ray conservation programme, said: “The alarm bells could not be ringing louder for sharks and rays. We are on the cusp of starting to lose this ancient group of creatures, species by species right here, right now. Starting now, we need far greater action by governments to limit fishing and bring these functionally important animals back from the brink.” While the governments in shark-catching countries and regional fisheries management bodies have largely moved in the right direction to address overfishing over the past decade, they typically fall short of implementing measures to directly control the amount of fishing, such as through catch limits. The end result – making sharks and rays the second most threatened vertebrate group on the planet – is alarming even if predictable, with too little happening too late. Dr Cornish added: “At the national level, fisheries and environmental authorities need to work together to stop overfishing and halt further declines. This is a pivotal moment in time. If we act now, we still have a good chance to save these predators that play such an important role in ocean health. However, if the status quo continues with slow

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incremental improvements in management, nobody should be surprised when shark and ray species start disappearing on our watch. This study is a huge wake up call! All countries and regional fisheries bodies that catch sharks and rays need to step up and take responsibility.” The most endangered sharks and rays will need recovery plans that reduce mortality from fishing to as close to zero as possible. For those species that can still sustain fishing, well-enforced science-based catch limits can prevent declines and even lead to recoveries. Where catch limits are not feasible, protecting critical habitats for sharks and rays and reducing incidental fishing mortality (e.g. through catch mitigation measures) can reduce overfishing. Sharks and rays play many key roles in the marine ecosystem. They do not simply live in the ocean – they shape it and have done so for millions of years. These animals are not only indispensable to ocean health, but also to the well-being of millions of people across the globe through food, livelihoods, and tourism opportunities they provide. Latest science highlights their role in carbon sequestration – a crucial buffer against climate change. n

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