knitter1502020 by leshabarad

Kaffe Fassett

Issue 150 £6.99

FRESH DESIGNS

Bright ideas for spring using lace & colourwork

Debbie Bliss

Cabled cardigan by Emma Vining

BEAUTIFUL BEADED YO K E J U M P E R D E S I G N

KNITTING TRADITIONS Make a pair of Dales gloves from 1850

Plus

MASTERCLASS Expert tips for knitting perfect socks every time A N N I K E N A L L I S • S A R A H H AT T O N • O U T I K A T E R • B R O N A G H M I S K E L LY • P E N E L O P E H E M I N G W A Y

wyspinners.com

Issue 150 We hope you’ll enjoy browsing through our patterns, choosing a beautiful design to knit for yourself or a loved one, and dreaming of the gorgeous yarns you’d like to try. Find a wealth of ideas inside, including a smart sweater for men on p26, the delicate textures of our Shoreline Collection on p47, and Emma Vining’s elegant cabled cardigan on p8.

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TheKnitterMag

ravelry.com/groups/the-knitter

Create • Knit • Enjoy THE

Shoreline COLLECTION

53 81 Patterns 8 EMMA VINING Barberry Round-necked cardigan with cable & bobble pattern 26 HELEN METCALFE Mortimer Cable rib sweater for men

37 DEBBIE BLISS Billie Lightweight jumper with a two-colour beaded yoke 48 BRONAGH MISKELLY St Ninian’s Isle Short-sleeve, V-necked top in lace and garter stitch

53 SARAH HATTON Saltburn by the Sea Jumper with a crossover front and lace sleeves

The Knitter 04 Issue 150

57 ANNIKEN ALLIS Rhossili Bay Intricately patterned shawl 61 CAROLINE BIRKETT Ballintoy Harbour Striped cotton jumper 68 PENELOPE HEMINGWAY Sarah Hunter’s Gloves Traditional Dales gloves 71 OUTI KATER Sandefjord Nordic colourwork socks 81 BERGERE DE FRANCE Virginie Modern Fair Isle pullover PLUS KAFFE FASSETT Portia and Ellen Colourwork cardigan & tank

Contents

57 90 SPOTLIGHT

Kaffe Fassett

8-PAG E PU L L OU T

Good reads

Expertise

Plus...

16 THE KNITTER LOVES News, products, patterns and inspiration from around the knitting world

32 YARN REVIEWS We test the latest yarns

44 SUBSCRIBE UK Subscribe now and save 60% on the shop price!

41 WATERCOLOURS & LACE We talk to Julie Harris about her artistic hand-dyed yarns 66 MUSEUM PIECES The story behind a pair of Dales gloves knitted in 1850 90 THE ORRY MILL Inside the Glasgow yarn shop

34 BOOK REVIEWS Our favourite knitting books 76 MASTERCLASS Expert tips for producing neat, well fitting socks 78 MASTERCLASS ARCHIVE At-a-glance reference guide 89 INFORMATION Abbreviations & errata

75 SUBSCRIBE OVERSEAS International subscribers save up to 70% 86 BACK ISSUES How to access the patterns in The Knitter’s archives 88 NEXT MONTH A sneak peek at what’s inside Issue 151

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The Knitter 05 Issue 150

Don’t miss an issue! Make sure you receive every issue of The Knitter – delivered direct to your door. TURN TO PAGE 44 FOR GREAT SUBSCRIPTION OFFERS

Bright ideas Cardigans, tops, shawls & socks to cast on for spring

EDITORIAL Commissioning Editor Kirstie McLeod Operations Editor Helen Spedding Art Editors Sarah Clark, Jude Curle Technical Editor Faye Perriam-Reed Acting Technical Editor Jen Bartlett

Mindful knitting We hope all our readers are keeping well during these difficult times. Personally, we’re finding that our knitting is bringing us some comfort, and creating something beautiful or useful is an ideal way to stay calm and positive. Welcome to our 150th issue – still filled with lots of inspiration for your knitting, but with a rather different look than usual! Restrictions due to the Covid-19 outbreak have meant that we haven’t been able to photograph all of our projects on models, but we hope you still enjoy the mannequin photography for our ‘Shoreline’ collection. We may all be working at home, but our team is still on hand if you have any questions. The best way to contact us is to email theknitter@immediate.co.uk and we will get back to you as soon as possible. If you’re unable to get to the shops, you’ll be able to buy a digital copy of The Knitter – find the links on our website, www.gathered.how/theknitter. There’s also a special three-month subscriptions offer if you’d like to get the magazine delivered to your door, but don’t want to commit to an annual subscription – find the details on page 24.

HAPPY KNITTING!

Digital Assistant Sarah Winsper Photography Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild, Dave Caudery, Adam Gasson

CONTRIBUTORS Anniken Allis, Caroline Birkett, Rhian Drinkwater, Charlotte Foster-Brown, Thelma German, Tricia Gilbert, Sarah Hatton, Penelope Hemingway, Carol Ibbetson, Sophie Jordan, Outi Kater, Ashley Knowlton, Jennifer May, Helen Metcalfe, Bronagh Miskelly, Emma Vining, Rosee Woodland

ADVERTISING 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes UK & International Business Manager Rachael Hawkins

MARKETING & SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions Marketing Executive Kate Jones

CIRCULATION Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith

PRODUCTION Production Coordinators Lauren Morris, Georgia Tolley Production Manager Louisa Molter/Rose Griffiths Production Director Sarah Powell

LICENSING Director of Licensing & Syndication Tim Hudson

PUBLISHING Managing Director, Craft Kerry Lawrence Managing Director, Bristol Andy Marshall Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau

SUBSCRIPTIONS Phone: 03330 162 151 Email: theknitter@buysubscriptions.com Subscribe online: buysubscriptions.com/craft

GET IN TOUCH Immediate Media Company Ltd, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST United Kingdom Phone: 0117 927 9009 Email: theknitter@immediate.co.uk

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from The Knitter team

Thursday 28 May

Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered oﬃce of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, please visit immediate.co.uk, email editorialcomplaints@ immediate.co.uk or write to Kerry Lawrence, The Knitter, Immediate Media Co. Ltd, Eagle House, Colston Avenue, Bristol BS1 4ST, UK PRINTED IN THE UK by William Gibbons. Distributed by Frontline

The Knitter 06 Issue 150

R O W A N The Art Of Knitting

Dazzle by Martin Storey | Kids Summer Brights

EMMA VINING

Barberry Elegant berry and leaf textures ramble up the front and back of this pretty cardigan The Knitter

Issue 150

Barberry

Three buttons are set at the top of the front band

SIZE TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST

ACTUAL LENGTH

SLEEVE SEAM

XXS

1XL

2XL

71-76

81-86

91-97

102-107

112-117

122-127

132-137

28-30

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

52-54

106

114

125

135

146

156½

37½

41¾

53¼

57½

61½

22½

22¾

23¼

23½

24½

16½

17¼

17¾

YARN EMMA VINING

Barberry “INSPIRED BY little clusters of berries and leaves, my cardigan combines cables and bobbles for an embossed look,” explains Emma Vining. “The decorative panels are bordered by twisted stitch ropes, extending up from the cast-on borders. The lower borders have an extended twisted stitch rope pattern; the fronts have two pockets embedded within this border.”

CHART PATTERNS CHART A (worked over 18 sts) Row 1 (RS): C2B, P4, C3B, C3F, P4, C2F. Row 2 (WS): P2, K4, P6, K4, P2. Row 3: C2B, P2, C3B, P1, C2F, K1, C3F, P2, C2F. Row 4: P2, K2, P6, K1, P3, K2, P2. Row 5: C2B, P1, C2B, C2F, P1, C2F, K3, C2F, P1, C2F. Row 6: P2, K1, P7, K1, P4, K1, P2. Row 7: C2B, P1, MB, K2, MB, P1, K1, C3F, K3, P1, C2F. Row 8: P2, K1, P7, K1, dec5to1, P2, dec5to1, K1, P2. Row 9: C2B, P2, (MB) twice, P2, C2F, P1, C3F, K1, P1, C2F. Row 10: P2, K1, P2, K3, P2, K2, (dec5to1) twice, K2, P2. Row 11: C2B, P6, C2F, P3, C2F, P1, C2F. Row 12: (P2, K6) twice, P2. Row 13: C2B, (P6, C2F) twice. Row 14: As row 12.

CHART B (worked over 18 sts) Row 1 (RS): C2B, P4, C3B, C3F, P4, C2F. Row 2 (WS): P2, K4, P6, K4, P2.

Stolen Stitches Nua Worsted (Worsted weight; 60% merino wool, 20% yak, 20% linen; 100m/109yds per 50g skein) CAFE FLAMINGO (9912)

Row 3: C2B, P2, C3B, K1, C2B, P1, C3F, P2, C2F. Row 4: P2, K2, P3, K1, P6, K2, P2. Row 5: C2B, P1, C2B, K3, C2B, P1, C2B, C2F, P1, C2F. Row 6: P2, K1, P4, K1, P7, K1, P2. Row 7: C2B, P1, K3, C3B, K1, P1, MB, K2, MB, P1, C2F. Row 8: P2, K1, dec5to1, P2, dec5to1, K1, P7, K1, P2. Row 9: C2B, P1, K1, C3B, P1, C2B, P2, (MB) twice, P2, C2F. Row 10: P2, K2, (dec5to1) twice, K2, P2, K3, P2, K1, P2. Row 11: C2B, P1, C2B, P3, C2B, P6, C2F. Row 12: (P2, K6) twice, P2. Row 13: (C2B, P6) twice, C2F. Row 14: As row 12.

CHART C (worked over 12 sts) Row 1 (RS): K3, C3B, C3F, K3. 12 sts. Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 (WS): Purl. Row 3: K1, C3B, K1, C2B, K1, C3F, K1. Row 5: (C2B, K3) twice, C2F. Row 7: As row 1. Row 9: K1, C3B, C2B, C2F, C3F, K1. Row 11: C2B, (K2, MB) twice, K2, C2F. Row 12: P4, dec5to1, P2, dec5to1, P4. Row 13: K5, (MB) twice, K5. Row 14: P5, (dec5to1) twice, P5.

BACK Using 4mm needles, cast on 92 (102:110:120:130:140:150) sts. Row 1 (RS): K4 (1:1:2:3:4:1), (C2B, P2) 8 (10:11:12:13:14:16) times, (C2F, P2) twice, C2F, (C2B, P2) twice, C2B, (P2, C2F) 8 (10:11:12:13:14:16) times, K4 (1:1:2:3:4:1).

The Knitter 10 Issue 150

x50g SKEINS

Row 2 (WS): P4 (1:1:2:3:4:1), (P2, K2) 10 (12:13:14:15:16:18) times, P4, (K2, P2) 10 (12:13:14:15:16:18) times, P4 (1:1:2:3:4:1). Rep rows 1 and 2 another 12 times. Row 27: K28 (33:37:42:47:52:57), C2B, (P6, C2F) twice, (C2B, P6) twice, C2F, K28 (33:37:42:47:52:57) to end. Row 28: P30 (35:39:44:49:54:59), K6, P2, K6, P4, K6, P2, K6, P30 (35:39:44:49:54:59) to end. Change to 4.5mm needles. Begin Berries Pattern: Row 1 (RS): K28 (33:37:42:47:52:57), work row 1 of Chart A, work row 1 of Chart B, K28 (33:37:42:47:52:57) to end. Row 2 (WS): P28 (33:37:42:47:52:57), work row 2 of Chart B, work row 2 of Chart A, P28 (33:37:42:47:52:57) to end. Rows 1 and 2 set the pattern. Cont as set, repeating all 14 rows of Charts A and B. For next rep use Chart B, followed by Chart A and cont to alternate Charts throughout, until work meas 38 (38:38:38:37:37:37) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE ARMHOLES Cont as set and cast off 2 (3:3:4:4:5:5) sts at beg of next two rows. 88 (96:104:112:122:130:140) sts. Next row (RS): K2, SSK, patt to last 4 sts, K2tog, knit to end. 2 sts dec’d. Next row (WS): P2, P2tog, patt to last 4 sts, P2tog tbl, purl to end. 2 sts dec’d.

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Barberry NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles 1 pair 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) knitting needles Cable needle (cn) 3 buttons Stitch holders

MB: Make bobble. (K1, P1) twice, K1 all into next stitch. 4 sts inc’d. dec5to1: With yarn at front, slip next 2 sts purlwise, P3tog, pass 2 sts over. 4 sts dec’d. C2B: Slip 1 st to cn and hold at back, K1; K1 from cn. C2F: Slip 1 st to cn and hold at front, K1; K1 from cn. C3F: Slip 1 st to cn and hold at back, K2; K1 from cn. C3B: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold at back, K1; K2 from cn. For general abbreviations, see p89

TENSION 19 sts and 25 rows to 10cm over st st on 4.5mm needles. 22 sts and 25 rows to 10cm over Berries Pattern on 4.5mm needles.

YARN STOCKISTS

CHARTS Chart A 14

1 15

Chart B 14

Stolen Stitches www.stolenstitches.com For retailer information contact Fyberspates 07546 948 378 www.fyberspates.com/retailers

1 15

Dec 1 st as set at each end of 0 (0:1:1:4:5:7) foll RS rows and 0 (0:0:1:0:0:0) foll 4th rows. 84 (92:98:104:110:116:122) sts. Cont as set until work meas 56 (57:58:59: 60:61:62) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE RIGHT SHOULDER AND BACK NECK Next row (RS): Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11:12:13) sts at beg of row, patt until you have 25 (27:29: 30:32:33:35) sts on your right needle. Place rem 52 (57:60:64:67:71:74) sts on a spare needle, and turn and work on these 25 (27:29:30:32:33:35) sts only. Next row (WS): Cast off 6 sts at beg of row, patt to end. 19 (21:23:24:26:27:29) sts. Next row: Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11:11:12) sts at beg of row, patt to end. 12 (13:14:14:15:16:17) sts. Next row: Cast off 5 sts at beg of row, patt to end. 7 (8:9:9:10:11:12) sts. Next row: Cast off rem 7 (8:9:9:10:11:12) sts in pattern. Rejoin yarn to sts on the spare needle and cast off next 20 (22:22:24:24:26:26) sts; patt to end. 32 (35:38:40:43:45:48) sts.

SHAPE LEFT SHOULDER AND BACK NECK Next row (WS): Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11:12:13) sts at beg of row, patt to end. 25 (27:29:30:32:33:35) sts. Next row (RS): Cast off 6 sts at beg of row,

patt to end. 19 (21:23:24:26:27:29) sts. Next row: Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11:11:12) sts at beg of row, patt to end. 12 (13:14:14:15:16:17) sts. Next row: Cast off 5 sts at beg of row, patt to end. 7 (8:9:9:10:11:12) sts. Next row: Cast off rem 7 (8:9:9:10:11:12) sts in pattern.

POCKET LINERS (make 2) Using 4mm needles, cast on 18 sts. Working in st st, continue until liner meas 8cm from cast-on edge, ending after WS row. This should be approx 22 rows. Place stitches on a holder.

LEFT FRONT Using 4mm needles, cast on 55 (60:64:69:74:79:84) sts. Row 1 (RS): K4 (1:1:2:3:4:1), (C2B, P2) 8 (10:11:12:13:14:16) times, (C2F, P2) 4 times, C2F, K1. Row 2 (WS): P3, (K2, P2) 12 (14:15:16:17:18:20) times, P4 (1:1:2:3:4:1). Rep rows 1 and 2 another 11 times. Set up pocket over next two rows: Row 25: Patt 10 (15:19:24:29:34:39) sts, cast off next 18 sts as (K2, C2B) 4 times, K2, then patt to end. 18 sts dec’d. Row 26: Patt 27 sts, then with WS of first pocket liner facing, purl across 18 sts from stitch holder, patt to end. 18 sts inc’d. Row 27: K28 (33:37:42:47:52:57), C2B, P6, C2F, P6, C2F, (P2, C2F) twice, K1.

The Knitter 11 Issue 150

Chart C 14

1 10

KEY K on RS; P on WS P on RS; K on WS C2F C2B C3F C3B Bobble Dec 5 to 1

POCKETS ARE EMBEDDED WITHIN THE TWISTED STITCH ROPE BORDERS ON THE FRONTS OF THE CARDIGAN

Barberry Row 28: P3, (K2, P2) twice, K6, P2, K6, P to end. Change to 4.5mm needles. Begin Berries Pattern: Row 1 (RS): K28 (33:37:42:47:52:57), work row 1 of Chart A, (P2, C2F) twice, K1. Row 2 (WS): P3, K2, P2, K2, work row 2 of Chart A, P to end. Rows 1 and 2 set the pattern. Cont as set, repeating all 14 rows of Chart A. For next rep use Chart B and cont to alternate Charts throughout, until work meas 38 (38:38:38:37:37:37) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE ARMHOLE Cast off 2 (3:3:4:4:5:5) sts at beg of row. 53 (57:61:65:70:74:79) sts. Patt one row. Next row (RS): K2, SSK, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Next row (WS): Patt to last 4 sts, P2tog tbl, P2. 1 st dec’d. Dec 1 st at armhole edge of 0 (0:1:1:4:5:7) foll RS rows and 0 (0:0:1:0:0:0) foll 4th rows. 51 (55:58:61:64:67:70) sts. Cont as set until work meas 49 (49:50:51: 51:52:53)cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE LEFT NECK Next row (RS): Patt 38 (42:45:48:51:50:53) sts, turn and leave rem 13 (13:13:13:13:17:17) sts on a stitch holder. Next row (WS): Cast off 9 sts at beg of row, patt to end. 29 (33:36:39:42:41:44) sts. Next row: Patt to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. 1 st dec’d. Next row: P2, P2tog, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Dec 1 st at neck edge as set on the next 3 rows, then on 3 (4:4:5:5:2:2) foll alt rows, working 3 sts at neck edge in st st. 21 (24:27:29:32:34:37) sts. Work 5 (5:5:3:5:11:11) more rows in patt, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE LEFT FRONT SHOULDER Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11:12:13) sts at beg of next row. 14 (16:18:19:21:22:24) sts. Patt one row.

Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11:11:12) sts at beg of next row. 7 (8:9:9:10:11:12) sts. Patt one row. Cast off rem 7 (8:9:9:10:11:12) sts in pattern.

RIGHT FRONT Using 4mm needles, cast on 55 (60:64:69:74:79:84) sts. Row 1 (RS): K1, C2B, (P2, C2B) 4 times, (P2, C2F) 8 (10:11:12:13:14:16) times, K4 (1:1:2:3:4:1). Row 2 (WS): P4 (1:1:2:3:4:1), (P2, K2) 12 (14:15:16:17:18:20) times, P3. Rep rows 1 and 2 another 11 times.

SHAPE RIGHT NECK

Set up pocket over next 2 rows: Row 25: Patt 27 sts, cast off next 18 sts as (K2, C2F) 4 times, K2, then patt to end. 18 sts dec’d. Row 26: Patt 10 (15:19:24:29:34:39) sts, then with WS of second pocket liner facing, purl across 18 sts from stitch holder, patt to end. 18 sts inc’d. Row 27: K1, (C2B, P2) twice, C2B, P6, C2B, P6, C2F, K to end. Row 28: P30 (35:39:44:49:54:59), K6, P2, K6, P2, (K2, P2) twice, P1. Change to 4.5mm needles. Begin Berries Pattern: Row 1 (RS): K1, (C2B, P2) twice, work row 1 of Chart B, K to end. Row 2 (WS): P28 (33:37:42:47:52:57), work row 2 of Chart B, (K2, P2) twice, P1. Rows 1 and 2 set the pattern. Cont as set, repeating all 14 rows of Chart B. For next rep use Chart A and cont to alternate Charts throughout, until work meas 38 (38:38:38:37:37:37) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. Work 1 row straight.

Cont as set and cast off 2 (3:3:4:4:5:5) at beg of next row, patt to end. 53 (57:61:65:70:74:79) sts. Next row (RS): Patt to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. 1 st dec’d. Next row (WS): P2, P2tog, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Dec 1 st as armhole edge of 0 (0:1:1:4:5:7) foll RS rows and 0 (0:0:1:0:0:0) foll 4th rows. 51 (55:58:61:64:67:70) sts. Work 1 row straight.

Next row (RS, buttonhole row): K1, C2B,

The Knitter 12 Issue 150

Next row (WS): Patt 38 (42:45:48:51:50:53) sts, turn and leave rem 13 (13:13:13:13:17:17) sts on a stitch holder. Next row (RS): Cast off 9 sts at beg of row, patt to end. 29 (33:36:39:42:41:44) sts. Next row: Patt to last 4 sts, P2tog tbl, P2. 1 st dec’d. Next row: K2, SSK, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Dec 1 st at neck edge as set on the next 3 rows, then on 3 (4:4:5:5:2:2) foll alt rows, working 3 sts at neck edge in st st. 21 (24:27:29:32:34:37) sts. Work 5 (5:5:3:5:11:11) more rows in patt, ending after a RS row.

SHAPE RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11:12:13) sts at beg of next row. 14 (16:18:19:21:22:24) sts. Patt one row. Cast off 7 (8:9:10:11:11:12) sts at beg of next row. 7 (8:9:9:10:11:12) sts. Patt one row. Cast off rem 7 (8:9:9:10:11:12) sts in pattern.

SLEEVES

SHAPE ARMHOLE

MAKE BUTTONHOLES

P1, K2tog, yo twice, SSK, P1, C2B, patt to end. Next row (WS): Patt to last 9 sts, K1, P1, K1, P2, K1, P3. Next row: K1, C2B, P1, C2F, C2B, P1, patt to end. Work 7 rows in pattern. Rep the last 10 rows once more, then work the first 3 rows again, ending after a RS row.

(both alike) Using 4mm needles, cast on 46 (50:50:54:54:58:58) sts. Row 1 (RS): K2, P2, (C2B, P2) 10 (11:11:12:12: 13:13) times, K2. Row 2 (WS): (P2, K2) 11 (12:12:13:13:14:14) times, P2. Rep rows 1 and 2 another 6 times. Row 15: K22 (24:24:26:26:28:28), C2B, K22 (24:24:26:26:28:28) to end. Row 16: Purl. Change to 4.5mm needles. Begin Sleeve Berries Pattern: Row 1 (RS): K17 (19:19:21:21:23:23), work row 1 of Chart C, K17 (19:19:21:21:23:23) to end.

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Barberry

Continuing in st st, begin sleeve increases on next row as follows: Inc row (RS): K2, M1, knit to last 2 sts, M1, K2. 2 sts inc’d. Work 7 (5:5:3:3:3:3) rows straight. Rep last 8 (6:6:4:4:4:4) rows another 6 (4:9:6:11:15:17) times. 60 (60:70:68:78:90:94) sts.

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

56 (57:58:59:60:61:62) cm

Row 2 (WS): P17 (19:19:21:21:23:23), work row 2 of Chart C, P17 (19:19:21:21:23:23) to end. Rows 1 and 2 set the pattern. Cont as set, working all 14 rows of Charts C once, ending with RS facing for next row.

42 (42 :43:43 :44:4 4:45) cm 47½ (53:57:62½:67½:73:76¾) cm

Sizes XS, M and L only Rep inc row. 2 sts inc’d. Work - (7:-:5:5:-:-) rows straight. Rep last - (8:-:6:6:-:-) rows another - (2:-:4:1:-:-) times. - (66:-:78:82:-:-) sts. All sizes Cont without shaping until Sleeve meas 42 (42:43:43:44:44:45) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE TOP SLEEVE Cast off 2 (3:3:4:4:5:5) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 56 (60:64:70:74:80:84) sts. Next row (RS): K2, SSK, knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. 2 sts dec’d. Next row (WS): P2, P2tog, purl to last 4 sts, P2tog tbl, P2. 2 sts dec’d. Patt 4 (4:2:0:0:0:0) rows without shaping. Dec 1 st at each end of next 0 (0:2:2:2:2:2) rows and 10 (12:11:14:16:18:20) RS rows. 32 (32:34:34:34:36:36) sts. Patt one row. Cast off 4 sts at the beg of the next 4 rows. 16 (16:18:18:18:20:20) sts. Cast off rem 16 (16:18:18:18:20:20) sts.

TO MAKE UP Block pieces gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Join shoulder seams.

One repeat of the berry and leaf pattern is worked at the cuff

needles, turn and work or pick up and knit sts, as follows: K1, (C2B, P2) 3 (3:3:3:3:4:4) times across first 13 (13:13:13:13:17:17) sts; pick up and knit 22 (23:23:22:26:27:27) sts from right front side of neck; 42 (44:44:46:46:48:48) sts from back centre neck; 22 (23:23:22:26: 27:27) sts from left front side of neck; (P2, C2F) 3 (3:3:3:3:4:4) times, K1 across the 13 (13:13:13:13:17:17) sts from the left front stitch holder. 112 (116:116:116:124:136:136) sts.

NECKBAND With WS facing, work across 13 (13:13:13: 13:17:17) sts on right front stitch holder as follows: (K2, P2) 3 (3:3:3:3:4:4) times, P1. Now, with RS facing and using 4mm

Next row (WS): P3, (K2, P2) 27 (28:28:28: 30:33:33) times, P1. Next row (RS): K1, (C2B, P2) 14 (14:14:14:15: 17:17) times, (C2F, P2) 13 (14:14:14:15:16:16) times, C2F, K1.

The Knitter 13 Issue 150

Rep these two rows another 5 times, ending after a RS row. Cast off in pattern with WS facing.

FINISHING Mark centre point of sleeve head cast-off. Match this point to shoulder seam and pin sleeve top in place evenly. Sew sleeve top in place. Repeat for second sleeve. Sew underarm seams. Sew side seams. Sew in any loose ends. Sew buttons onto left front button band to match top three buttonholes on right front. Slip stitch pocket liners into place on reverse of fronts.

Barberry The back has the same panels and rope pattern as the front, placed centrally

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…ideas, websites, patterns, events, inspiration and more! STRANGE STORIES Writer, historian and ‘knitting genealogist’ Penelope Hemingway is well known to our regular readers for her explorations into the lives of ordinary knitters from centuries past. Her new book, Their Darkest Materials, takes a more Gothic turn as she reveals grim stories from the darker side of knitting’s history. She delves into tales of murder with knitters as the victims, or knitting as evidence; the exploitation of children and elderly knitters, and knitters working in charity schools and poor-houses; stories of runaway slaves and prisoners; the place of knitting and spinning in British folklore; and even the tale of a woman held in the West Riding Lunatic Asylum, who proposed ideas for new dye shades by watching thunderstorms. Penelope’s fascinating and meticulously researched book will delight anyone interested in British knitting history, and its charming hand-drawn illustrations add to its appeal. It can be ordered as a PDF download for £12 from Penelope’s Etsy store. www.etsy.com/shop/hemingwayandhunt - Read more from Penelope on page 66!

Artisan colour The Fibre Co. has launched elegant new shades of its Luma and Meadow yarns for your spring knitting www.thefibreco.com

ARBON’S ANNUAL

John, Juliet and the rest of the team at John Arbon Textiles have been busy compiling the second instalment of their mill magazine. The Annual Issue Two is now available for pre-order, and contains four beautiful new patterns. There’s lots more to enjoy, too, including insights into how the Devon spinning mill is run, its range of yarns and tops, articles and puzzles, and lovely photography. Issue One from 2019 is still available, too, and there’s a discount if you order both issues. £6 from www.jarbon.com

Anniken Allis’s online shop is filled with her beautiful shawl patterns, knitting kits, books of lace and beaded designs, and a choice of yarns. She is also selling some of her knitted samples which have appeared in The Knitter! www.yarnaddict.co.uk

The Knitter 16 Issue 150

SOFT KNITS FOR WOMEN

NEW BOOKS

Our pick of the best pattern collections and e-books SCANDINAVIAN KNITWEAR by Rita Taylor Rita Taylor’s new book explores the colours, textures and techniques of traditional knitting in Norway, Sweden, Denmark and the Faroe Islands. Along with a colourful stitch dictionary and technical advice, Rita provides knitting patterns for a range of garments and accessories for men and women, using stranded colourwork, twined knitting, knit-and-purl textures, cables, and Bohus-style colourwork. The Crowood Press, £25

EQUINOX by Knit Picks Just in time for the warmer weather, yarn brand Knit Picks has issued a book of 13 women’s patterns using a variety of cool cotton and linen blends. Garments include a cardigan with lace details by Helen Metcalfe, a lace pullover, and a dolman-sleeved jumper with lace stripes. There is a lovely choice of lightweight tanks and T-shirts, plus floaty wraps and stoles. E-book $14.99, www.knitpicks.com

R:E:D: RESCUE ENDANGERED BY DESIGN

Island Blend Fine by Rowan Rowan’s newest yarn for spring-summer is Island Blend Fine, a luxurious, shimmering mix of Falkland Islands fine merino wool with baby alpaca and silk, which comes in 11 rich shades. Accompanying the new yarn is a collection of 20 garment and accessory patterns for women in sizes 32in-50in, designed by Lisa Richardson, Martin Storey and Georgia Farrell. Lacy stitches decorate a pretty cardigan, a scarf and a draping poncho; the ‘Wellesley’ jumper by Martin Storey has an exquisite

panel of lace and bobbles. There are longline cardigans with subtle textured patterns, a moss stitch sweater with a chic buttoned collar, and a crew-neck cabled jumper. Showcasing the lovely shades of Island Blend Fine is a raglan jacket with colourwork panels, a two-colour slip stitch wrap, and the mosaic stitch ‘Marchena’ turtleneck. £14.95 per 100g skein; pattern collection costs £9.50. For stockists visit www.knitrowan.com or call 01484 668200.

The Knitter 17 Issue 150

by Polly Cevallos, Dorte Rørmann and Lisa Renner Head-turning knits inspired by animals fill the pages of this quirky pattern book, designed to raise awareness of endangered species. Designers have let their imaginations run wild to create patterns and motifs based on nature, including whales, sloths, African wild dogs, coral, rare parrots and pangolins. There are 35 projects for all the family. €32 from Ravelry.com

Magical Woodland Knits

by Claire Garland Wonderfully lifelike animals and birds fill the pages of Claire Garland’s forthcoming pattern book, Magical Woodland Knits. Her incredibly lifelike creations are like knitted works of art, and will delight anyone who loves wildlife. Claire’s book contains 12 designs, including patterns for an owl, a roe deer fawn, a badger, a field mouse, a mallard duck, a blue tit, a wolf, and a characterful pheasant. Each projects is accompanied by Claire’s nature sketches and evocative photography. There are very detailed, step-by-step instructions for each project, illustrated with how-to photographs to help you assemble each creature. Projects involve combining different coloured and textured yarns for a more realistic effect, and because each creature is relatively small, you could use up odd balls of yarn from your stash. These creatures will make wonderful gifts for nature lovers, although they’re not intended as toys. The book will be published by David & Charles on 29 May in the UK, and costs £16.99. www.davidandcharles.com

1 1 +2 Animal projects include a rabbit, pheasant, squirrel, fox and owl 3 The detailed instructions are easy to follow

COLOUR PLAY Three geometric blanket designs by Kaffe Fassett

LATTICE BLANKET

SHADOW BLOCKS THROW

CHECKERBOARD

by Kaffe Fassett

Price Available for free from Ravelry; first appeared in the Rowan Autumn-Winter 2019 newsletter. www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lattice-blanket-2

Price £6.99 as part of The Knitter issue 118 (available as a digital back issue). www.gathered.how/digital-issues/

Price £9.49 as part of the pattern book Kaffe’s Colours (contains seven projects). www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

The Knitter 18 Issue 150

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Mindful knitting to boost relaxation

We asked… What would you knit if money was no object?

West Yorkshire Spinners has launched a free knit-along project, designed to help knitters feel more calm and relaxed. The ‘Emeline’ blanket, designed by Lynne Rowe, features six different square designs which are being released as downloadable patterns from the company’s website and on Ravelry.com. Each square design uses a different technique, but all have been designed to offer calming, stress-free knitting; it’s easy to mix and match squares and colours to make the project more personal. Lynne’s design is knitted in Re:Treat, a soft, chunky Bluefaced Kerry Hill wool. For each sale of Re:Treat, West Yorkshire Spinners will make a donation to the mental health charity Mind. www.wyspinners.com

“A cashmere sweater” Cara Breac@carabreac “A mohair coat.” timethief@timethief “I would give my mum a million pounds to keep her yarn dyeing business going and get her to send four hand dyed skeins to anyone who is self isolating and a pattern and needles so they can keep crafting” Mammele@GabyMammele “Everything by Alice Starmore.” Ruth Wallace@TheFarrago “Lots of Stephen Wests” Yvonne Jackson@delores8225

Archive ideas Search Press is

marking its 50th birthday by offering free downloads of its classic books www.searchpress.com/50th-anniversary

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styles of the 1980s for its new children’s patterns, such as varsity cardigans, baseball jackets, batwing jumpers and colourblock cardigans, using its Snuggly Replay DK yarn.

Every month, three of our subscribers will win a prize as a thank-you for their loyalty to The Knitter. This month, the winners (below) will each receive a copy of Melissa Leapman’s sweater design book, 6000+ Pullover Possibilities, worth £21.99. Check your issue next month to see if you’re a winner of our Subs Stars draw!

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“A garment made of a silk yarn in a beautiful rich colour” J@j_williams611 “Cardigan for myself with angora” Carol@chatch77hotmai1 “I will knit a proper gansey one day - just need to finish a few (ok lots!) things first” Joan Feakes@PurpleJF “A Fair isle sweater with yarn I bought from the island personally” Debbie Hoog@hollylilly22 “Everything. For me, it's time. I never had the time to knit all the things I want like lounge pants, dusters with lace edging and braided waist closures (very sexy), silk union suits for winter, footed PJs for Bébé, mohair sweater dresses with embroidered edges…” E. Janelle of Joyeux Tricots Designs @JoyeuxTricots “All the Marie Wallin kits” M@melodell

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The Knitter 20 Issue 150

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AND

As more of us are forced to stay at home during the Covid-19 outbreak, it’s good to find ways to keep busy and stay connected with others in the knitting community. Here are our top 10 ideas for knitters

Knitting can support mental well-being during difficult times

TAKE PART IN A KNIT-ALONG

High street yarn shops have had to close their doors for the time being, but many are still selling yarn supplies through their online stores - and during these difficult times, we believe it’s more important than ever to support our LYS if we can. Resourceful yarn shop owners are coming up with innovative ideas for their customers, such as virtual personal shopping sessions. Shop owners including Jayne of Ida’s House (pictured) and Milli of Tribe Yarn are offering bookable slots via FaceTime, WhatsApp or similar video calls, to allow knitters to ‘browse’ the shop shelves, get advice and have a chat about yarns for their next project. Many shops are also offering free delivery for local knitters - Wild and Woolly in east London, for example, has set up a wool-by-bike delivery service!

Knit-alongs (or KALs) can be a fun way to make something special and connect with other knitters. Many KALs involve the pattern being released to participants in regular instalments, which can help to maintain your interest and motivation. Yarn companies often offer KAL patterns for free, and recent launches include the textured ‘Elder’ throw by Lisa Richardson for Rowan, the ‘Emeline’ throw from West Yorkshire Spinners, and Black Sheep Wools’ ‘Make-Along’ chevron blanket. Designers around the world are also running KALs, and participants will be sharing their progress and questions with others via Ravelry. There are also mystery knit-alongs in progress, for an added dash of excitement! Type ‘KAL’ into the Ravelry search function to find a knit-along project to suit you.

SUPPORT INDEPENDENT BUSINESSES

For independent yarn producers and hand-dyers, the Covid-19 outbreak represents a serious threat to their livelihoods. So many artisan businesses make much of their income by selling at yarn festivals, but 2020’s shows have now been cancelled. Buying online is, of course, not the same as browsing a stand of beautiful yarns at a show, but we’d encourage everyone to buy a skein or two to make a special shawl or pair of socks, or to treat themselves to a new knitting bag or yarn bowl - it could really help a small business. Many indie dyers are still posting out orders, typically once a week. Many designers, too, make a proportion of their income from running knitting workshops, but as these have been postponed, they will be relying more on their pattern sales - so why not head to Ravelry and snap up a pattern or two from your favourite designer!

The Knitter

Issue 150

WATCH THE EXPERTS IN ACTION

We don’t know about you, but we’ve been spending a lot more time in front of the television these days! Why not put that screen time to good use, and get some knitting advice from world-leading experts? Top of our must-watch list is a DVD from Hazel Tindall and Elizabeth Johnston, called 50 Tips from Shetland Knitters. It’s filled with friendly, knowledgeable advice on all aspects of knitting, from two women who have decades of knitting experience between them. It’s available as a DVD or as a download from www.hazeltindall.com. Another of our recommended DVDs is Knitting Ganseys by Beth Brown-Reinsel. Discover the construction methods and techniques involved in gansey knitting by working along with Beth to make a doll-sized sampler sweater. A downloadable version is also available from www.knittingtraditions.com.

Subscribe now at www.gathered.how/theknitter

FAR LEFT: EVA-KATALIN / GETTY IMAGES

KEEP CALM CARRY ONting knit

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL YARN SHOP

Knitting inspiration

LEARN A NEW TECHNIQUE

STAY CONNECTED WITH FRIENDS

SORT YOUR STASH - AND KNIT IT UP!

There’s no time like the present to brush up on your knitting knowledge or master a new technique. We’ve been bringing you masterclasses on a wealth of knitting techniques since our first issue, and you can find a full list on page 78 - so if there’s an article you never got round to reading, why not dig it out? Much of our masterclass content is also available to read online, at www.gathered.how/theknitter. We’d also highly recommend the Arnall-Culliford Knitwear website for tutorials and videos on a whole host of techniques (www.acknitwear.co.uk). Carol Feller’s website offers free email courses on subjects including cables, short-rows and finishing skills (www.carolfeller.com/email-courses), while Anniken Allis is our go-to expert for lace knitting and beading techniques (www.yarnaddict.co.uk).

Loneliness and boredom are serious threats to our well-being. If you’re missing your regular knitting group or like the idea of chatting with other knitters online - why not join in with one of the virtual knit nights that are popping up everywhere? Leading the way is UK Hand Knitting, which has begun running virtual knitting groups twice a week to help people stay in touch and craft together you can find the details on the UKHK Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ ukhandknitting. Lots of yarn stores are also hosting virtual knit nights using video conferencing such as Zoom, and these include Baa Ram Ewe, Tribe Yarns, Knit With Attitude, Baa Wool, and many more. Ravelry, too, is a great place to enjoy some knitting chat there are hundreds of groups to join, with all kinds of interests.

Let’s be honest: most of us have enough yarn stashed away to keep us busy for a while. There’s no time like the present to have a sort-out you might even find something you’d completely forgotten about! Why not use this opportunity to use up that skein of hand-dyed sock yarn you picked up at Yarndale in 2016, or that special laceweight which you’ve never found a pattern for? It’s easy to find one-skein projects on Ravelry, or to use the search function to find patterns using the same amount of yarn that you actually have. Judith Durant’s One-Skein Wonders books are also a good source of ideas. For small amounts of left-over yarn, take a look at Rachel Coopey’s multicoloured sock designs, Kate Davies’ Fair Isle hats, or try steeking with Mary Henderson’s mug cosy pattern from Issue 116 (pictured above).

LISTEN TO A KNITTING PODCASTER

Bring knitting chat and laughter straight into your home by tuning in to a knitting podcasts. There are so many friendly, entertaining podcasts which you can listen to for free, and they’re a great way to find out what other knitters around the world are getting up to. One of our favourites is the East London Knit podcast by Renée Callahan (pictured above). Always smiling, Renée loves to share her yarn discoveries, design projects, and general knitting chat (www.eastlondonknit.com). Fruity Knitting provides excellent, in-depth interviews with the world’s leading designers (www.fruityknitting.com), and Woolwork explores British wool and sheep breeds (www.knitbritish.net). Four friends join together for fun knitting chat on the Knitters League (https://bit.ly/knittersleague), while sisters Jodi and Tracie always make us laugh! (https://bit.ly/grogirls).

KNIT SOMETHING FOR CHARITY

A nice way to use up odds and ends in your yarn basket is to make something for charity. An excellent resource is the UK Hand Knitting website (www.ukhandknitting.com/knittingfor-charity), which lists charities looking for knitted donations, and has patterns for you to use. Knit For Peace welcomes donations of knitted items which can be distributed to good causes in the UK and around the world; it also has a range of free patterns (www.knitforpeace.org.uk). The charity Bliss has patterns for clothing and blankets to make for premature babies, and you can check with your local neonatal unit to see what items they currently require. For quick stashbuster makes, The Big Knit run by Age UK is ideal - why not knit up a few mini-hats in advance of this autumn’s campaign? Find details at https://bit.ly/ageukthebigknit.

The Knitter

Issue 150

LOOK AFTER YOURSELF

If you’re spending more time sat on the sofa and knitting, it’s important to pay attention to your hands, wrists and posture - not only to avoid stiffness and discomfort, but also to prevent longer-term issues such as repetitive strain injury in the muscles and tendons of the wrists. Try to carry out a few simple stretching exercises every day, to improve flexibility and prevent inflammation. We provided step-bystep instructions for eight key hand and wrist exercises in Issue 136, and you can email us at theknitter@ immediate.co.uk if you would like us to send you a copy of this masterclass. There are also good resources online - search ‘hand exercises for knitters’ including video guides on YouTube from the teams at LoveCrafts and Laughing Hens, and tips on neck and shoulder exercises from The Loopy Ewe (https://bit.ly/loopyewe).

EXCEPTIONAL, RISK-FREE OFFER

DON’T MISS AN ISSUE! Free delivery to your home

We want to make it as easy as possible for our readers to get their copy of The Knitter at this difficult time, so we have devised a unique offer for you that we hope will help. For the next three months, we will deliver your copy of The Knitter direct to your door, saving you over 15% on the usual shop price at only £17.82 for three issues, and with no delivery charge*. This offer is risk-free and doesn’t require

starting a Direct Debit. It simply requires a one-off payment, and if you decide that you do want to cancel before the third issue, we will refund you for any remaining issues. It’s a simple, no-strings way to make sure you get your copy if you are unable to get to the shops. Just order on the link below or call our hotline. We also regularly run longer-term subscription offers by continuous Direct Debit, so you won’t miss any issues. If

TO R EC E I V E 3 I S S U E S O F

this suits you better, you will find an offer on page 44 with our current Direct Debit offer on it. We’ve got so much coming up in the next few issues, including beautiful lace shawls from Anniken Allis, and Fair Isle garments by Mary Henderson. Plus, we’ll bring you a wealth of inspiration for your knitting from designers including Jennie Atkinson, Dario Tubiana, Fiona Alice and Sarah Hatton, so don’t miss out!

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For overseas readers, we have a selection of offers available including shorter term continuous credit card offers. Visit www.buysubscriptions.com/OSSpring for more details Terms and conditions: *Offer ends 31st May 2020 and is open to UK delivery addresses only. You may cancel at any time and receive a full refund on any outstanding issues. †UK calls will cost the same as other standard fixed line numbers (starting 01 or 02) and are included as part of any inclusive or free minutes allowances (if offered by your phone tariff). Outside of free call packages, call charges from mobile phones will cost between 3p and 55p per minute. Lines are open Mon to Fri 9am–5pm for orders and enquiries.

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HELEN METCALFE

Mortimer

This ribbed sweater for men features a smart cable pattern around the chest The Knitter

Issue 150

Mortimer

SIZE XS

1XL

2XL

3XL

4XL

107

115

125

135

145

155

45¼ 49½ 53¼ 57¼

96½ 108

120

125 136½ 146

155

167

TO FIT CHEST

ACTUAL CHEST

ACTUAL LENGTH

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

42½

65¾

69½ 69½ 70½ 70½ 72½ 72½ 74½

26¾ 27¼ 27¼ 27¾ 27¾ 28½ 28½ 29¼

SLEEVE SEAM

53¾ 57½

22½ 22¾ 22¾ 22¾ 22¾ 23¼

Mortimer THIS HANDSOME round-necked sweater for men has a stretchy, comfortable ribbed fabric, which incorporates a cable check pattern around the chest for added interest. Helen Metcalfe’s design is knitted in Re:Treat, a chunky-weight British wool from West Yorkshire Spinners. This is a roving-style yarn using fleece from a Bluefaced Leicester-Kerry Hill cross-breed, and has a soft, smooth feel. It’s available in 15 warm, solid shades, plus two marled colourways.

STITCH PATTERN CABLE CHECK PATTERN (multiple of 20 sts) Note: stitches should not be counted after rows 1, 5, 9, 13 and 17. Row 1 (RS): (P2, C3tog) twice, (P2, K3) twice. Row 2 (WS): (P3, K2) twice, (P1, yo, P1, K2) twice. Rows 3, 7, 11 and 15: *P2, K3; rep from * to end. Rows 4, 8, 12 and 16: *P3, K2; rep from * to end. Row 5: As row 1. Row 6 and 18: As row 2. Row 9: (P2, C3B) twice, (P2, C3tog) twice. Row 10 and 14: (P1, yo, P1, K2) twice, (P3, K2) twice. Row 13: (P2, K3) twice, (P2, C3tog) twice. Row 17: (P2, C3tog) twice, (P2, C3B) twice. Repeat rows 3-18.

TENSION 17 sts and 19 rows to 10cm over Chart patt on 6mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS

YARN HELEN METCALFE

1 pair 6mm (UK 4/US 10) knitting needles 6mm (UK 4/US 10) circular needles, 40cm long Cable needle (cn) 2 stitch holders 2 stitch markers

West Yorkshire Spinners Re:Treat (Chunky weight; 100% wool; 140m/153yds per 100g ball) SERENE (452)

BACK

x100g BALLS

West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com

Cast off 8 (10:11:12:13:15:16:17) sts at beg of next 4 rows. 50 (52:58:58:64:64:68:74) sts. Cast off 9 (10:12:12:14:14:15:18) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 32 (32:34:34:36:36:38:38) sts. Leave rem sts on a stitch holder.

Using 6mm needles, cast on 82 (92:102:106:116:124:132:142) sts. Row 1 (RS): P2 (2:2:4:4:3:2:2), *K3, P2; rep from * to last - (-:-:2:2:1:-:-) sts, P- (-:-:2:2:1:-:-) to end. Row 2 (WS): K2 (2:2:4:4:3:2:2), *P3, K2; rep from * to last - (-:-:2:2:1:-:-) sts, K- (-:-:2:2:1:-:-) to end. Rep the last 2 rows until Back measures 43 (44:44:45:45:47:47:49½) cm from cast-on edge, ending with RS facing for next row.

FRONT Work as for Back to **.

Next row (RS): P- (-:-:2:2:1:-:-), work row 1 of Cable Check Pattern 20-st rep 4 (4:5:5:5: 6:6:7) times across row working from Chart or written instructions, [(P2, C3tog) twice] - (1:-:-:1:-:1:-) time, P2 (2:2:4:4:3:2:2). Next row: K2 (2:2:4:4:3:2:2), [(P1, yo, P1, K2) twice] - (1:-:-:1:-:1:-) time, work row 2 of Cable Check Pattern 20-st rep 4 (4:5:5:5: 6:6:7) times across row, K- (-:-:2:2:1:-:-). These two rows set the position of chart/ stitch pattern rep.** Work rows 3-18 twice, then rows 3-8 once.

Work rows 3-18 once, then rows 3-16 once. Pm after first and last 25 (30:34:36:40:44: 47:52) sts. Mrks denote central section of row. Next row (RS): Patt to mrk, over midsection work K3 instead of C3tog otherwise maintain patt, slip mrk, patt to end. Remove mrks.

SHAPE RIGHT FRONT NECK Cont to maintain patt as shaping progresses, working partial reps where possible. Next row (WS): Patt 33 (38:43:45:50:54: 57:62) sts, turn, working these sts only. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 1 (1:1:1:2:2:2:2) RS rows. 30 (35:40:42:44:48:51:56) sts. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 1 (1:2:2:1:1:1:1) RS rows. 28 (33:36:38:42:46:49:54) sts.

Next row (RS): P- (-:-:2:2:1:-:-), *(P2, C3B) twice, (P2, K3) twice; rep from * to last 2 (12:2:4:14:3:12:2) sts, [(P2, C3B) twice] - (1:-:-:1:-:1:-) time, P to end. Next row: As row 2.

SHAPE SHOULDERS Work in rib as initially set over the foll rows (not cable pattern).

The Knitter 28 Issue 150

Next RS row: K1, SSK, patt to end. 27 (32:35:37:41:45:48:53) sts.

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Mortimer BLOCKING DIAGRAM

C3tog: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold at back, K1; K2tog tbl from cn. C3B: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold at back, K1; K2 from cn. For general abbreviations, see p89 58:59) cm 56 (56:57:58:58:58:

CHART 18

14 12 10 8

K on RS; P on WS

P on RS; K on WS

4 2 20

The cable check pattern flows into the ribbed neckband

KEY

C3tog

C3B

Repeat

48¼ (54:60:62½:68¼:73: 77½:83½) cm

68 (69½:69½:70½:70½:72½:72½:74½) cm

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

Mortimer rep from * to last 1 (1:0:0:0:1:1:1) st, P1 (1:0:0:0:1:1:1). Row 2 (WS): K3 (3:2:2:2:3:3:3), *P3, K2; rep from * to last 1 (1:0:0:0:1:1:1) st, K1 (1:0:0:0:1:1:1). Rep the last 2 rows twice more. Next row (RS): P2, M1, patt to last 2 sts, M1, P2. 2 sts incâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d. Work 7 (5:5:5:5:5:3:3) rows straight. Rep the last 8 (6:6:6:6:6:4:4) rows 6 (14:14:10:8:4:23:24) more times. 53 (69:72:64:60:54:92:94) sts. Sizes XS, L, 1XL and 2XL only Next row (RS): P2, M1, patt to last 2 sts, M1, P2. 2 sts incâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d. Work 5 (-:-:3:3:3:-:-) rows straight. Rep the last 6 (-:-:4:4:4:-:-) rows 5 (-:-:6:10:16:-:-) more times. 65 (-:-:78:82:88:-:-) sts. All sizes Work straight until Sleeve measures 56 (56:57:58:58:58:58:59) cm from cast-on edge, ending with RS facing for next row. Cast off.

FINISHING NECKBAND Sew shoulder seams.

The sweater is knitted in a smooth British wool

Rep the last RS row 2 (2:1:1:1:1:1:1) more times. 25 (30:34:36:40:44:47:52) sts. Cast off 8 (10:11:12:13:15:16:17) sts at beg of next 2 WS rows. 9 (10:12:12:14:14:15:18) sts. Next WS row: Cast off rem sts.

SHAPE LEFT FRONT NECK With WS facing place the middle 16 (16:16:16:16:16:18:18) sts onto a holder. Maintain patt for rem 33 (38:43:45:50:54: 57:62) sts. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 1 (1:1:1:2:2:2:2) WS rows. 30 (35:40:42:44:48:51:56) sts. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 1 (1:2:2:1:1:1:1) WS rows. 28 (33:36:38:42:46:49:54) sts.

Next RS row: Patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 27 (32:35:37:41:45:48:53) sts. Rep the last RS row 2 (2:1:1:1:1:1:1) more times. 25 (30:34:36:40:44:47:52) sts. Cast off 8 (10:11:12:13:15:16:17) sts at beg of next two RS rows. 9 (10:12:12:14:14:15:18) sts. Next RS row: Cast off rem sts.

SLEEVES Note: P2 edge sts on RS rows, K2 edge sts on WS rows throughout. Maintain patt throughout by incorporating new sts into rib patt as shaping progresses. Using 6mm needles, cast on 39 (39:42:42:42:44:44:44) sts. Row 1 (RS): P3 (3:2:2:2:3:3:3), *K3, P2;

The Knitter 30 Issue 150

Using 6mm circular needles, with RS facing and starting at left front neck edge, pick up and knit 16 (16:16:16:17:17:17:17) sts, patt in rib as set over 16 (16:16:16:16:16:18:18) sts from front st holder, pick up and knit 16 (16:16:16:17:17:17:17) sts from right neck edge, pm, patt in rib as set over 32 (32:34: 34:36:36:38:38) sts from back st holder. 80 (80:82:82:86:86:90:90) sts. Pm to mark beg of rnd. Rnd 1: P- (-:-:-:1:1:-:-), K3 (3:3:3:3:3:-:-), *P2, K3; rep from * to - (-:-:-:1:1:2:2) sts before mrk, P- (-:-:-:1:1:2:2), slm, K- (-:1:1:2:2:3:3), *P2, K3; rep from * to 2 (2:3:3:4:4:-:-) sts before mrk, P2 (2:2:2:2:2:-:-), K- (-:1:1:2:2:-:-), slm. Rep the last rnd 5 more times. Cast off loosely in rib.

MAKING UP Line up the centre of the top sleeve edge with the shoulder seam, joining the seams using mattress stitch. Sew sleeve seam. Repeat for other sleeve. Sew side seams. Weave in ends and gently block to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

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S WA T C H E S S HOW N A C T UA L SIZE

Yarn choice

Our pick of the best seasonal yarns includes cool, washable options, vivid dyed delights, and British breed wools Kettle G\HG KXHê

MALABRIGO

SCHEEPJES

Washted

Bamboo Soft

Shade pictured Natural (63) Skein weight/length 100g/192m Needle size 4.5-5.5mm (UK 7-5/US 7-9) Tension 18 sts to 10cm Fibre content 100% superwash merino wool Care Machine wash RRP £11.99 Contact www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

Shade pictured Royal Purple (252) Ball weight/length 50g/150m Needle size 3-3.5mm (UK 11-10/9/US 2/3-4) Tension 27 sts and 33 rows to 10cm Fibre content 50% bamboo, 20% cotton Care Machine wash at 400C RRP £2.99 Contact www.scheepjes.com

A superwash version of Malabrigo’s classic Worsted base, this yarn is created from 100% merino wool. Its neat stitches form a next-to-skin fabric that comes with a comfortable, warm feel, which is perfect if you’re looking to knit cosy accessories or garments. As well as Natural seen here, there is a wonderful range of variegated, kettle-dyed shades.

We love the sensual stitches delivered by Bamboo Soft from Scheepjes. After just a few rows your knitted fabric delivers a lovely lustre, promising draping garments that will keep you cool during the summer and warm in the winter. Combined with cotton, this yarn creates breathable fabrics that will withstand regular washing with ease.

The Knitter 32 Issue 150

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Reviews

KREA DELUXE

DYE CANDY

Organic Cotton

Super Sock

Shade pictured No 44 Ball weight/length 50g/165m Needle size 3-3.5mm (UK 11-10/9/US 2/3-4) Tension 24 sts to 10cm Fibre content 100% organic cotton Care Machine wash 400C RRP £4.40 Contact www.tribeyarns.com

Shade pictured Poor Unfortunate Souls Skein weight/length 100g/425m Needle size 3mm (UK 11/US 2/3) Tension 30 sts to 10cm Fibre content 75% superwash merino wool, 25% nylon Care Hand wash RRP £17 Contact www.dyecandy.co.uk

This organic cotton is sown, grown and harvested without use of chemical pesticides and artificial fertiliser. Its high-quality, hard-wearing cotton makes it perfect for cool clothing, washing many times without losing its shape. You’ll fall in love with its smooth and luxurious feel. This 4ply comes in a range of tonal colours that are beautifully subtle.

Super Sock from indie dyer Dye Candy comes in vibrant speckled and solid colourways, with names that will put a smile on your face - how about Cake Coma, or Catnip For Killers? This high-twist 4ply yarn offers exceptional stitch definition, and its mottled-looking fabric, with a smooth touch, is ideal for knitting up a pair of extravagant socks.

British åæGê

NORTHERN YARN

WEST YORKSHIRE SPINNERS

Methera

Exquisite 4ply

Shade pictured Natural Grey Skein weight/length 100g/350m Needle size 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) Tension 21 sts to 10cm Fibre content 100% British wool Care Hand wash RRP £16 Contact www.northernyarn.co.uk

Shade pictured Bordeaux (558) Skein weight/length 100g/400m Needle size 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) Tension 28 sts and 36 rows to 10cm Fibre content 80% Falkland Island wool, 20% mulberry silk Care Hand wash RRP £14.75 Contact www.wyspinners.com

Embrace this classic delight! Made from a blend of wonderful wools from four different Lancashire and Cumbria sheep breeds, Methera is a worsted-spun 4ply-weight yarn. It knits up into strong yet draping fabric that maintains a delicate woolly halo you’ll love. Cast it on for those traditional, everyday garments that you’ll want to wear forever.

This new addition to the West Yorkshire Spinners range knits up into a dreamy fabric that creates luxurious garments effortlessly. Its mix of Falkland wool and mulberry silk creates a perfect stitch definition and an elegant sheen. We defy you not to fall in love with this elegant yarn in its regal range of colours. Use it for extra-special garments and accessories.

The Knitter 33 Issue 150

Reviews

Great reads

Discover how to create stunning, innovative marled fabrics using multiple colour strands with this in-depth guide by Cecelia Campochiaro EXPLORE THE infinite possibilities offered by colour blending with this fascinating book by Cecelia Campochiaro. It focuses on the concept of marling and multi-strand knitting, where different strands of yarn are combined to create new colours, gradients or colour-changing sequences. Cecelia’s meticulous and scholarly research into marling has resulted in this in-depth guide with more than 300 pages. It’s perfectly accessible for every knitter, though, and will be an invaluable resource book for advanced knitters and designers. The book is presented in a systematic way that’s easy to follow. It explores the effects you can achieve by blending together two or more strands of the same yarn in different colours, or of different textures or weights, to produce marled fabrics. Cecelia examines different types of marling: common strands, where one strand is kept the same throughout the fabric for a cohesive look; bridging sequences, where marls are used to connect sections of solid colours; full gradient sequences; and improvisational sequences. All the practical information you’ll need to play with and develop your own marling patterns is clearly presented,

including how to work with micro swatches in your experiments, and calculating yardage. The next section explores the many different marling effects possible, examining colour values and contrast, colour mixing and dominance. Every idea is illustrated with knitting patterns for scarves, shawls, hats and other projects. ‘Goethe’, for example, is a parallelogram scarf which uses a common strand of grey throughout, combined with varying strand colours. The ‘Taddeo’ shawl uses marl intarsia for a sophisticated effect, while the ‘Itten’ hat demonstrates how marled sections can be used to link solid colours in a bridging sequence. The ‘Martin’ scarf is knitted in just black and white, but by using an array of 10-strand combinations, a stunning fabric can be achieved. Like every project in the book, the finished item looks simple and elegant, yet it has such clever design ideas behind it. The ‘Castel’ scarf mixes 15 strand colours in different combinations to produce 105 unique marl stripes! In a beautifully presented hardback format with a cloth spine, this will be a book to treasure and enjoy - and even after an initial look-through, you’ll be itching to play with yarns in your stash to explore a whole new world of marling adventures.

Making Marls is published by Cecelia Campochiaro (RRP €65). For details of European stockists email info@ito-yarn.com For North American orders visit www.schoolhousepress.com

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CECELIA CAMPOCHIARO

MAKING MARLS

The Knitter 34 Issue 150

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DEBBIE BLISS

Billie

This vintage-look jumper has a sparkling beaded yoke and little â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;braceletsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; on the sleeves

The Knitter 37 Issue 150

SIZE TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST

ACTUAL LENGTH

SLEEVE SEAM

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

102

107

112

101½ 107

113

35½ 37¾

51½ 52½

118½ 124½

42¼ 44½ 46¾ 55

23½

20¼ 20¾ 21¼ 21¾ 22½ 44

17¼

YARN DEBBIE BLISS

Billie BEADING AROUND the yoke and wrists gives a sparkling look to this sophisticated jumper by Debbie Bliss; the gold and pearl beads are placed by following a beading chart. The jumper has been knitted in Debbie Bliss’s classic Rialto 4ply merino yarn, which is available in a range of sophisticated colours. For more advice on knitting with beads, read our Masterclass online at https://bit.ly/knittingwithbeads

PATTERN NOTES Thread beads onto yarn before starting to knit by threading a sewing needle with a short length of sewing cotton, then knotting the ends to make a loop. Slide the knot to one side and thread the yarn end through the loop. Pick up beads, three or four at a time, slide them down the loop of thread and onto the yarn. Do not work a bead motif on four edge sts.

BACK AND FRONT (worked alike) Using 3mm needles, cast on 126 (134:142:150:158:166:174) sts. Rib row 1 (RS): K2, (P2, K2) to end. Rib row 2 (WS): P2, (K2, P2) to end. Rep last 2 rows 6 times more. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg with a RS (knit) row, work 4 rows in st st, ending after a WS row. Dec row (RS): K3, skpo, knit to last 5 sts, K2tog, K3.

Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply (4ply weight; 100% merino wool; 180m/197yds per 50g ball) GREY (04)

Work 5 rows. Work the last 6 rows 4 times more, and the dec row again. 114 (122:130:138:146:154:162) sts. Work 7 rows, ending with a P row. Inc row (RS): K4, M1, knit to last 4 sts, M1, K4. Work 7 rows. Rep last 8 rows 4 times more, and the inc row again. 126 (134:142:150:158:166:174) sts. Work 1 (1:3:3:5:5:7) rows.

SHORT ROW SHAPING First side Row 1 (RS): K48 (50:52:54:56:58:60), wrap 1, turn. Row 2: Purl to end. Row 3: K42 (43:44:45:46:47:48), wrap 1, turn. Row 4: Purl to end. Row 5: K36, wrap 1, turn. Row 6: Purl to end. Row 7: K30, wrap 1, turn. Row 8: Purl to end. Row 9: K24, wrap 1, turn. Row 10: Purl to end. Row 11: K18, wrap 1, turn. Row 12: Purl to end. Row 13: K12, wrap 1, turn. Row 14: Purl to end. Row 15: K6, wrap 1, turn. Row 16: Purl to end. Row 17: Knit across all sts, working wraps and wrapped sts together.

The Knitter 38 Issue 150

x50g BALLS

1 pair 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) knitting needles 1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) circular needles, 60cm long 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles, 60cm long 1500 pearl glass beads 1500 gold glass beads Sewing needle Cotton thread

TENSION 28 sts and 36 rows to 10cm over st st on 3.25mm needles

Second side Row 1 (WS): P48 (50:52:54:56:58:60), wrap 1, turn. Row 2: Knit to end. Row 3: P42 (43:44:45:46:47:48), wrap 1, turn. Row 4: Knit to end. Row 5: P36, wrap 1, turn. Row 6: Knit to end. Row 7: P30, wrap 1, turn. Row 8: Knit to end. Row 9: P24, wrap 1, turn. Row 10: Knit to end. Row 11: P18, wrap 1, turn. Row 12: Knit to end. Row 13: P12, wrap 1, turn. Row 14: Knit to end. Row 15: P6, wrap 1, turn. Row 16: Knit to end. Row 17: Purl across all sts, working wraps and wrapped sts together. 126 (134:142:150:158:166:174) sts.

SHAPE RAGLAN ARMHOLES Cast off 5 (6:7:8:9:10:11) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 116 (122:128:134:140:146:152) sts. Size 8 only Next row (WS): K3, skpo, knit to last 5 sts, K2tog, K3. 2 sts dec’d. Work 3 rows straight. 114 sts. Sizes 12, 14, 16, 18 and 20 only Next row (RS): K3, skpo, knit to last 5 sts, K2tog, K3. 2 sts dec’d. Next row: P3, P2tog, purl to last 5 sts,

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Billie YARN STOCKISTS

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

Debbie Bliss c/o Love Crafts 01409 404 010 www.lovecrafts.com

Wrap 1 on a K-side row: Yarn to front, slip next stitch onto right-hand needle, yarn to back, slip stitch back onto left-hand needle; when working across the wrapped stitch on the next row, work the wrapped stitch and the wrapping loop together as one stitch. Wrap 1 on a P-side row: Yarn to back, slip next stitch onto right-hand needle, yarn to front, slip stitch back onto left-hand needle; when working across the wrapped stitch on the next row, work the wrapped stitch and the wrapping loop together as one stitch. For general abbreviations, see p89

45 (48:50¾:53½:56½:59¼:62¼) cm 44cm

CHART 31 30

P2tog tbl, P3. Rep last 2 rows another – (–:0:1:2:3:4) times. – (–:124:126:128:130:132) sts.

All sizes Next row: K3, skpo, knit to last 5 sts, K2tog, K3. Next row: Purl to end. Rep last 2 rows another 15 (19:20:21:22:23:24) times. 82 sts. Leave these sts on a spare needle.

SLEEVES Thread beads onto yarn as folls: Row 12: 3 pearl. Row 11: (1 pearl, 1 gold, 1 pearl) 3 times. Row 10: (1 pearl, 3 gold, 1 pearl) 3 times. Row 9: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 3 times. Row 8: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 3 times. Row 7: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 3 times. Row 6: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 3 times. Row 5: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 3 times. Row 4: 1 pearl, (2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 3 times. Row 3: (2 gold, 2 pearl, 1 gold) 3 times, 1 gold. Row 2: 1 gold, (2 pearl, 1 gold) 3 times. Row 1: 4 pearl. Using 3mm needles, cast on 54 (58:62:66:70:74:78) sts.

51½ (52½:54:55:57:58:60) cm

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

4 2 15

KEY Place pearl bead

Place gold bead

K on RS; P on WS

The yoke has a zigzag pattern of gold and pearl beads

Billie

The yoke section is worked in the round

Rib row 1: K2, (P2, K2) to end. Rib row 2: P2, (K2, P2) to end. Rep last 2 rows 4 times more, inc one st at centre of last row. 55 (59:63:67:71:75:79) sts. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg with a RS (knit) row, work in st st for 2 rows, ending after a WS row. Work in patt from Chart. Row 1: K3 (5:7:9:11:13:15), (work across 16-st patt rep) 3 times, work one st after patt rep, K3 (5:7:9:11:13:15). Row 2: P3 (5:7:9:11:13:15), work one st before patt rep, (work across 16-st patt rep) 3 times, P3 (5:7:9:11:13:15). These 2 rows set the Chart. Cont in patt to end of Row 12. Cont in plain st st. Inc row: K3, M1, knit to last 3 sts, M1, K3. Work 5 rows. Rep last 6 rows 15 times more, and the inc row again. 89 (93:97:101:105:109:113) sts. Work straight until Sleeve meas 44cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE RAGLAN TOP Cast off 5 (6:7:8:9:10:11) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 79 (81:83:85:87:89:91) sts. Next row: K1, skpo, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 2 sts decâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d. Next row: Purl to end. Next row: Knit to end. Next row: Purl to end. Rep last 4 rows another 7 (8:9:10:11:12:13) times. 63 sts.

Next row: K1, skpo, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 61 sts. Next row: Purl to end. Next row: K1, skpo, knit to last 6 sts, wrap 1, turn. 60 sts. Next row: Purl to last 5 sts, wrap 1, turn. Next row: Knit to last 12 sts, wrap 1, turn. Next row: Purl to last 11 sts, wrap 1, turn. Next row: Knit to last 18 sts, wrap 1, turn. Next row: Purl to last 17 sts, wrap 1, turn. Next row: Knit to last 24 sts, wrap 1, turn. Next row: Purl to last 23 sts, wrap 1, turn. Next row: Knit to last 3 sts, working wraps and wrapped st together, K2tog, K1. 59 sts. Next row: Purl across all sts, working wraps and wrapped sts together. Leave these 59 sts on a spare needle.

YOKE Thread beads onto yarn as folls: Round 29: 170 pearl. Round 26: 204 gold. Round 24: 17 pearl. Round 23: (1 pearl, 1 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 22: (1 pearl, 3 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 21: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 20: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 19: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 18: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold) 17 times. Round 17: (2 gold, 2 pearl, 1 gold) 17 times. Round 16: (1 gold, 2 pearl) 17 times. Round 15: 17 pearl. Round 12: 17 pearl. Round 11: (1 pearl, 1 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 10: (1 pearl, 3 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 9: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 8: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 7: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 6: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 5: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold, 1 pearl) 17 times. Round 4: (1 pearl, 2 gold, 2 pearl, 2 gold) 17 times. Round 3: (2 gold, 2 pearl, 1 gold) 17 times. Round 2: (1 gold, 2 pearl) 17 times. Round 1: 17 pearl. With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needles, work across left sleeve, front, right sleeve and back as folls: Row 1: K2tog, K26, K2tog, K27, skpo

The Knitter 40 Issue 150

(all across sts of left sleeve), K2tog, K78, skpo, (all across sts on front), K2tog, K26, K2tog, K27, skpo (all across sts of right sleeve), K2tog, K78, skpo, (all across sts on back). 272 sts. Join to work in the round. Round 1: (Patt across 16-st patt rep on chart) 17 times. This row sets the chart. Cont in patt to end of Round 12. Round 13: K to end. Round 14: (K2, skpo, K2tog, K4, skpo, K2tog, K2) 17 times. 204 sts. Round 15: (Patt across 12-st patt rep) 17 times. This row sets the chart. Cont in patt to end of Round 26. Round 27: (K2, skpo, K4, K2tog, K2) 17 times. 170 sts. Round 28: K to end. Round 29: Patt to end. Round 30: K to end. Round 31: (K2, skpo, K2, K2tog, K2) 17 times. 136 sts. Change to 3mm circular needles. Round 1: (K2, P2) to end. Rep this round 5 times. Cast off in rib.

MAKING UP Join raglan seams. Join side and sleeve seams. Wash beaded sweater by hand, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Do not dry clean. Turn sweater inside out and place in a laundry bag or pillowcase and spin in the washing machine to remove excess water before drying flat; this will protect the beads from abrasion.

For more designs by Debbie Bliss for women, men and children, and to explore her full range of gorgeous yarns, visit www. lovecrafts.com

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F E AT U R E

Julie loves to work with natural British yarns, including Wensleydale wool

Artistic visions

Indie dyer and botanical artist Julie Harris creates stunning hand-painted yarns for her brand Watercolours and Lace WATERCOLOURS & Lace is a hand-dyed yarn company run by Julie Harris, and she has united her love of yarn with her skills as a botanical artist to develop a huge range of gorgeous colourways. Based in Norfolk, Julie is also a talented knitwear designer, specialising in intricate lace shawls. We chatted with Julie to discover how she came to set up her dyeing business, and how she creates her hand-dyed colours. When did you first try dyeing yarn? “I found some hand-dyed yarn at a show and fell in love with some lace shawl patterns on Ravelry, so I knitted a couple of the designs. I was disappointed to find the colours pooled or gave obvious stripes, which I felt didn’t look right for lace. So, I bought a book and some undyed laceweight yarn and had a go myself,

with the aim of producing something with short and irregular colour changes. “I dyed my first skeins in 2011, mainly for myself - although friends and relations started admiring them, and my cousin sold a few in her gift shop in the early days. “Watercolours and Lace became a business in 2012. I’d suffered a neck injury in late 2011 which required surgery, and my father was terminally ill at the time. I was really stressed and decided to give up my day job, which meant I was able to spend more time with my Dad. After his death, I needed something to occupy my time, and decided to see if I could turn yarn dyeing into a job. My wonderful husband Alan retired from his own job a year later and became my admin manager, computer expert and general factotum/heavy lifter. “The business name relates to most of my yarn being designed for lace knitting, and from my other love - watercolour painting. Originally, I’d learned to paint

The Knitter 41 Issue 150

landscapes, but I later became more interested in botanical studies. Nowadays I’m more often found painting on yarn than on paper! “We started selling online via Etsy, investing in our own website a couple of years later, and in 2013 we took the plunge and went to our first yarn show as exhibitors - Fibre-East in Bedfordshire.” Can you remember the first colourway you ever created? “Alan created a wonderful spreadsheet system for me to track the recipe for every skein, so I can tell you exactly which one it was! It was a BFL laceweight in shades of blue and purple, which I called Ultramarine Violet. I knitted my ‘Haruni’ shawl design with some of it, which I still wear today.” What fibres do you like to work with? “I only use natural fibres, as I really don’t like working with synthetics - both from

Artisan dyers an ecological point of view, and also because I simply don’t like knitting with or wearing them. The only synthetic I allow in my stock is the small amount of silver Stellina thread which you’ll find in our two Sparkle Lace yarns. I don’t use superwash wool either, as I don’t like the processes used to produce it, or the way it reacts with the dye. “Wool is my favourite fibre to dye and knit with, along with alpaca, and we also stock camelhair, cashmere, mohair, silks and yak, plus lots of blends. Our niche is the luxury end of the market, but because many of our designs can be made with just 100g of yarn, you can have a luxury garment or accessory that doesn’t cost a fortune. We stock yarns from 4ply down to 1ply cobweb weights, and have more than 50 yarn types and weights. “British wools are always preferable we do sell a large amount of merino, but most of it comes from the Falklands, so it is classed as British although it does of course have a long way to travel. Personally, I prefer Bluefaced Leicester or Wensleydale, and we also stock some Corriedale and Masham, along with Shetland 4ply and 1ply which comes direct from the Shetland Isles. “One of the things I’m probably known for is dyeing on non-white bases, such as the camelhair and some of the alpaca and yak, but also some coloured wools, including our Shetland Cobweb. These bases can give some truly stunning colours once dyed, which you can’t easily get from a paler yarn.

MY TECHNIQUE OWES MUCH TO MY BACKGROUND IN WATERCOLOUR PAINTING

Sparkle Lace blends alpaca, cashmere and silk with Stellina

“Quite often I’ll obtain a few kilos of a yarn that’s not generally available and which isn’t repeatable, such as our Lambswool Silk Tweed and Merino Mohair Cobweb. A couple of times this has been something that has been spun specifically for me. These become my limited editions and have proved very popular, particularly with weavers and other fibre artists who don’t worry about not being able to get more of the same yarn for a project.” What dyeing processes do you use? “I use professional acid dyes for the majority of my colourways. I do occasionally use natural botanical dyes, but find that most people are drawn more to the brighter, stronger colours you get from acid dyes. Also, as I work from my utility room at home, I won’t use metals like iron or copper which you really need to give a wider range of colours with botanical dyes. If I can’t tip my waste water down the drain or pour it on the garden, I won’t use it. I always ensure the dye is exhausted when the yarn is steamed, so what is thrown away is non-toxic. “My technique owes much to my watercolour painting background. In the same way that an artist mixes some colours on the palette, and then allows other colours to merge wet-into-wet on the paper, I do the same when I hand-paint yarn. It does mean I can only produce one or two skeins in each batch, and it is very time-consuming, but it results in every skein being slightly different, and customers really seem to enjoy creating a project that will be totally unique to them.” What’s your favourite colourway from your current range? “I love blue, purple and magenta, as anyone seeing our exhibition stand will quickly see! My current favourite is a fairly new addition which was created for our Mediterranean Flowers Yarn Club, called Beautiful Bougainvillea. I’ve just tried it on a new Wensleydale wool 4ply base which we’ve recently added to the range, and it’s really stunning. “I don’t tend to have specific colourways for each yarn base, but mix and match across the range, and colours are never ‘retired’ at the end of the season. If it sells well, I’ll keep dyeing that colourway, especially when I get a new yarn base to try. Our two most popular colourways of all time are Summer Garden and Bitter Chocolate Truffle - and they’ve both been customer favourites for several years. “One thing I love about the dyeing process is how different the results from a single recipe can be when it’s applied to different fibre bases, or even different weights. A laceweight can look quite

The Knitter 42 Issue 150

different from a 4ply in the same fibre or blend, even when the recipe is the same. Alpaca in particular can give completely different colours to wool - but it’s all part of the fun of dyeing. “We did a check late last year and found we had 638 different colours in stock! We usually travel to yarn shows with 700-800 skeins, and the most common ‘complaint’ I get is that there is too much choice!” What would you say are the particular highlights and challenges involved in running an indie dyeing business? “The main highlight is undoubtedly the lovely people we meet, both at yarn shows and through our online business. Alan and I both enjoy chatting to people at events, giving advice and helping them choose the right yarn and pattern for their project. Some of our customers have become really good friends - a couple of them even invite us to stay with them when we’re doing yarn shows in their area! “We have a particular geographical challenge because of where we live, in a tiny village in a very rural part of South Norfolk. We have very little mobile phone coverage, and the nearest shop and post office is five miles away. There are five roads into the village, all of which are only one vehicle wide, and we’re five miles from the nearest ‘A’ road, so travelling for shows can be a little challenging! During the bad winter two years ago, we couldn’t get out of the village for a week. “One thing I find challenging is persuading people to try wool yarns. So many people believe wool is too itchy, or if they do use wool it can only be merino. Wool yarns are generally cheaper than the more luxurious fibres we dye, so price isn’t the issue. It’s sad when we have so many wonderful sheep breeds in the UK, yet few people will even consider using the yarn. I love to support British sheep farmers and buy direct when I can, and will keep on plugging away about wool. I’m aiming to design more garments using wool in the future, in the hope of getting more people on board.” Do you have a favourite artist or writer who inspires you? Or are there particular landscapes that inspire your work? “Monet and Turner are my favourite master artists for their use of colour. I also adore the work of the Welsh artist David Bellamy, who is known for his love of painting in the wilderness. I went on several painting holidays with David in Wales and the Lake District when I was more interested in landscapes, and love his use of colour and atmosphere in watercolour. He inspired me to create my Mountains and Moorlands Yarn Club a few years ago.

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Artisan dyers “The yarn clubs run four times a year for three months each, and feature three different yarn bases with colours based on a common theme. We usually offer them in two different yarn weights, normally lace and 4ply. Numbers are very limited, as each skein is painted individually, and the colourways are always new to the range, not being made generally available until after that particular Club has finished. We both love Scotland and have enjoyed exhibiting there several times over the last few years. The landscapes are just stunning and have inspired our latest Yarn Club - Glens and Braes. “Being a Norfolk girl, born and bred, and having lived here all my life, I also love the local landscapes and am inspired by our sandy beaches and big skies. Our garden faces west, so we enjoy the most spectacular sunsets, and these have inspired a number of my colourways. “As a botanical painter, I do of course also love flowers. Many of my colours are named for them, as well as having landscape-inspired titles. And food chocolate colourways are always on the yarn menu, as well as those inspired by all the berry fruits and citrus.” What’s the best piece of advice you’ve been given by another dyer or member of the knitting community? “To knit or crochet what you love, and to make sure you love what you make, by using the best-quality materials you can afford. If you’ve going to spend days, weeks or even months making something beautiful, you’ll enjoy the process much more if you’re using good-quality yarn and needles, and you’ll be more likely to enjoy wearing the finished item. It’s the same with watercolour painting - any artist will advise you to use good-quality brushes, paint and paper to get the best results.” Do you have any plans for 2020 that you can share with us? “I’m busy working on some new knitting designs - our next mystery knitalong shawl design should launch later this spring. I also want to create more garment designs, particularly some Fair Isle ones, as well as more of the lace shawls I’m probably best known for. “I’m also collaborating with a company called Great Escapes, which offers tutored weekend breaks on various needlecrafts in rather nice country house hotels in the south of England. We’re hoping to trial workshops on knitted and crochet shawls for the first time this year, so I’m really looking forward to meeting some keen knitters and crocheters for those.” – www.watercoloursandlace.co.uk

1 3

Luxury bases include a merino-silk-yak blend

1 Julie particularly loves shades of blue, purple and magenta 2 She is a botanical artist who is inspired by flowers; this colour is called Bougainvillea 3 Julie’s ‘Haruni’ shawl design 4 Her BFL mini skeins are ideal for Fair Isle 5 Summer Garden is one of Julie’s most popular colourways

5 The Knitter 43 Issue 150

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THE

SHORELINE COLLEC TION Stitch patterns evoking the beauty of Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coast decorate the knits in our spring pattern collection The Knitter 47 Issue 150

THE SHORELINE COLLECTION

Bronagh Miskelly

ST NINIAN’S ISLE This short-sleeved, V-neck jumper combines garter stitch with the Shetland print o’ the wave pattern

The Knitter 48 Issue 150

The overlapped neckband is finished with a decorative button

SIZE TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST

ACTUAL LENGTH

SLEEVE SEAM

102

107

112

117

122

127

87½

96½

103½ 107½

112

117

121½

127½ 132½

34½

36¼

40¾

42¼

47¾

50¼

52¼

49½

50½

19¼

19¾

19½

20¼

20¾

21¼

21¾

8½

2¾

3¼

YARN Bronagh Miskelly

ST NINIAN’S ISLE BRONAGH MISKELLY’S love of vintage style is reflected in this lightweight jumper, knitted in Erika Knight’s lovely Wool Local yarn. The design has short sleeves, and features the traditional print o’ the wave lace stitch pattern. This is paired with garter stitch on the upper body and sleeves.

Erika Knight Wool Local (4ply weight; 50% Bluefaced Leicester wool, 50% Masham wool; 450m/492yds per 100g skein)

BENNETT

BACK

x100g SKEINS

12 (12:6:12:6:12:12:6:6:12) of chart. Next row (RS): K9 (10:13:6:7:7:7:10:5:6), *M1, K21, M1, K11 (13:13:8:9:11:13:13:8:9); rep from * 1 (1:1:2:2:2:2:2:3:3) more times, M1, K21, M1, K to end. 109 (115:121:128:133:139:145:151:157:163) sts.

Using 3mm needles, cast on 97 (103:109:115:119:125:131:137:141:147) sts. Work in Rib Pattern until work meas 7 (7:7:7:8:8:8:8:8:8) cm, ending after a WS row and dec 0 (0:0:1:0:0:0:0:0:0) st in centre of last row. 97 (103:109:114:119:125:131:137:141:147) sts.

Cont in garter stitch for remainder of Back.

Change to 3.25mm needles.

Work even for 5 (5:5:1:3:1:1:3:5:1) rows.

RIB PATTERN

BEGIN LACE MOTIF

SHAPE ARMHOLES

(multiple of 2 sts + 3) Row 1 (RS): K2, (P1, K1) to last st, K1. Row 2 (WS): P2, (K1, P1), to last st, P1 Repeat these 2 rows for pattern.

Next row (RS): K3 (4:7:0:1:1:1:4:1:0), *work Row 1 of Lace Motif over next 27 sts, K5 (7:7:2:3:5:7:7:1:3); rep from * 1 (1:1:2:2:2: 2:2:3:3) times more, work Row 1 of Lace Motif, K to end. Next row (WS): P3 (4:7:0:1:1:1:4:1:0), *work Row 2 of Lace Motif, P5 (7:7:2:3:5:7:7:1:3); rep from * 1 (1:1:2:2:2:2:2:3:3) times more, work Row 2 of Lace Motif, P to end.

Cast off 3 (4:4:4:5:6:7:8:9:9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 103 (107:113:120:123:127:131:135:139:145) sts.

These 2 rows set patt of Lace Motif and st st. Work even in patt for 20 rows.

Knit 27 (29:29:31:31:33:33:33:33:35) rows, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE BUST

Inc row (RS): K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 2 sts inc’d. Knit 27 (29:29:31:31:33:33:33:33:35) rows. Rep Inc row. 99 (101:105:112:113:115:117:119:121:127) sts.

STITCH PATTERNS

LACE MOTIF (worked over 27 sts) Row 1 (RS): K2, (K2tog, yo) three times, K1, yo, K2, SSK, K4, K2tog, K2, (yo, K2tog) twice, yo, K2. Row 2 and every foll WS row: Purl. Row 3: K1, (K2tog, yo) three times, K3, yo, K2, SSK, K2, K2tog, K2, (yo, K2tog) twice, yo, K3. Row 5: (K2tog, yo) three times, K5, yo, K2, SSK, K2tog, K2, (yo, K2tog) twice, yo, K4. Row 7: K2, (yo, SSK) twice, yo, K2, SSK, K4, K2tog, K2, yo, K1, (yo, SSK) three times, K2. Row 9: K3, (yo, SSK) twice, yo, K2, SSK, K2, K2tog, K2, yo, K3, (yo, SSK) three times, K1. Row 11: K4, (yo, SSK) twice, yo, K2, SSK, K2tog, K2, yo, K5, (yo, SSK) three times. Row 12 (WS): Purl. Repeat these 12 rows for pattern.

Inc row (RS): K1, M1, patt to last st, M1, K1. 2 sts inc’d. Work even in patt for 23 rows, working inc sts into st st. Rep last 24 rows once more, then rep Inc row once. 103 (109:115:120:125:131:137:143:147:153) sts.

Work even until armhole meas 16 (17:18: 18½:19:20:21:22:22½:23) cm, ending after a WS row.

Work even until a total of 84 (84:78:84:78:84: 84:78:78:84) chart rows have been worked; [7 (7:6:7:6:7:7:6:6:7) full vertical repeats of Lace Motif Pattern], ending after Row

The Knitter 50 Issue 150

Dec 1 st at each end of next row, then every foll alt row 3 (4:5:5:6:7:8:9:10:10) more times. 95 (97:101:108:109:111:113:115:117:123) sts.**

Next row (RS): K26 (26:28:30:29:29:29:30: 30:32), cast off 47 (49:49:52:55:57:59:59: 61:63) sts, K to end. Continue on these last

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St Ninian’s Isle

1 pair 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) knitting needles 1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles Stitch holders 1 button (decorative)

TENSION 26 sts and 36 rows to 10cm over st st on 3.25mm needles. 26 sts and 44 rows to 10cm over garter st (relaxed) using 3.25mm needles. 27 sts in Lace Motif measures 12cm wide.

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

YARN STOCKISTS Erika Knight c/o Thomas B. Ramsden 01943 230010 www.thehomeofcraft.co.uk

49 (50:49½:50½:51:53:54:54:55:56) cm

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

CHART 12

43¾ (46:48¼:51¾:53¾:56: 58½:60¾:63¾:66¼) cm

7 (7:7:7:7: 8½:8½: 8½:8½: 8½) cm

1 25

KEY

K on RS; P on WS

SSK

K2tog

For general abbreviations, see p89

26 (26:28:30:29:29:29:30:30:32) sts only for left shoulder. Follow the chart or written instructions to work the lace motif

SHAPE LEFT BACK SHOULDER Rows 1, 3 and 5 (WS): K to end. Row 2 (RS): K1, K2tog, K15 (15:16:16:16:18: 18:18:18:19), w&t. Row 4: K1, K2tog, K6 (6:7:6:6:8:8:7:7:8), w&t. Row 6: K to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts. Break yarn and place rem 24 (24:26:28:27:27: 27:28:28:30) sts on a holder.

SHAPE RIGHT BACK SHOULDER With WS facing, join yarn to 26 (26:28:30: 29:29:29:30:30:32) sts held for right back shoulder and K to end. Row 1 (RS): K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. Row 2 (WS): K17 (17:18:18:18:20:20:20:20:21), w&t. Row 3: As row 1. Row 4: K8 (8:9:8:8:10:10:9:9:10), w&t. Row 5 (RS): K to end. Row 6: K to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts. Break yarn and place rem 24 (24:26:28: 27:27:27:28:28:30) sts on a holder.

FRONT Work as for Back to **. 95 (97:101:108:109:111:113:115:117:123) sts. Knit 9 rows, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE LEFT FRONT NECK Next row (RS): K47 (48:50:53:54:55:56:57: 58:61), turn and cont on these sts only.

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St Ninian’s Isle Cont in garter stitch, dec 1 st at neck edge of every RS row 24 (24:24:24:28:28:30:30:31:32) times, then every foll 4th row another 1 (2:2:3:1:2:1:1:1:1) times. AND AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st at armhole edge of 28th (30th:30th:32nd: 32nd:34th:34th:34th:34th:36th) row after the completion of armhole decreases, then on foll 28th (30th:30th:32nd:32nd:34th: 34th:34th:34th:36th) row. 24 (24:26:28:27:27:27:28:28:30) sts. Once neck and armhole shaping have been completed, work even in garter stitch until work meas same as Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE LEFT FRONT SHOULDER Row 1 (WS): K17 (17:18:18:18:20:20:20:20:21), w&t. Rows 2 and 4 (RS): K to end. Row 3: K8 (8:9:8:8:10:10:9:9:10), w&t. Row 5: K to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts. Break yarn and place rem 24 (24:26:28:27:27: 27:28:28:30) sts on a holder.

SHAPE RIGHT FRONT NECK AND SHOULDER With RS facing, return to rem sts held for Front and join yarn. Size 14 only K2tog and place this st on a separate holder.

The upper body and sleeves are in garter stitch

All other sizes K1 and place this st on separate holder. All sizes Join yarn to rem 47 (48:50:53:54:55:56:57: 58:61) sts and K to end. Cont as for left front neck and shoulder, reversing all shapings.

SLEEVES (both alike) Using 3mm needles, cast on 75 (77:83:83:85:89:93:97:101:107) sts. Work in Rib Pattern for 10 (10:10:10:10: 12:12:12:12:12) rows. Change to 3.25mm needles. Work even in garter stitch until sleeve meas 7 (7:7:7:7:8½:8½:8½:8½:8½) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE SLEEVE TOP Cont in garter stitch, cast off 3 (4:4:4:5:6: 7:8:9:9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 69 (69:75:75:75:77:79:81:83:89) sts.

Next row (RS): K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 2 sts dec’d.

K1 from front neck holder, pick up and knit 47 (48:50:53:52:54:56:57:58:60) sts up right front neck (approx 4 sts every 5 rows), 6 sts down right back neck, 47 (49:49:52:55: 57:59:59:61:63) sts across back neck cast-off, 6 sts up left back neck, 47 (48:50:52:52:54: 56:57:58:60) sts down left front neck, then pick up and knit 1 st into back of centre st. Do not join. Turn work. 155 (159:163:171:173:179:185:187:191:197) sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of every 4th row another 4 (7:5:5:8:9:10:11:11:8) times, then every foll RS 17 (14:19:19:15:15:15:14:15:21) times. 25 (25:25:25:27:27:27:29:29:29) sts. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Cast off rem 17 (17:17:17:19:19:19:21:21:21) sts.

Starting with a WS row, work 7 rows in Rib Pattern. Cast off in rib.

MAKING UP NECKBAND

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Steam block pieces gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Join both shoulders using the three-needle cast-off method. Using 3mm needles and with RS facing,

Weave in remaining ends. Sew sleeve seams and side seams. Set in sleeves. Overlap rib at centre of V-neck so right edge is on top, and stitch in place on WS. Sew decorative button to overlapped neckband.

The Knitter 52 Issue 150

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THE SHORELINE COLLECTION

Sarah Hatton

SALTBURN B Y T H E SEA Crossover front pieces are used to construct this feminine jumper with lace details

The Knitter 53 Issue 150

SIZE XS TO FIT BUST

SLEEVE SEAM

81-86

91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

107

115

130

143

45½

51¼

56¼

21¾

22½

23¼

24¾

9¾

10¼

10½

ACTUAL BUST

ACTUAL LENGTH

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES cm

YARN Sarah Hatton

SALTBURN

BY T H E

SEA

SARAH HATTON’S pretty design is comprised of two shaped front pieces, which are crossed over above the lower hem for an open, draping shape. Columns of eyelets highlight the lines of the front sections, while the sleeves are worked in an all-over lace pattern. The use of Debbie Bliss’s Piper yarn gives a wonderfully smooth, silky fabric with excellent stitch definition.

BACK Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 95 (109:119:135:149) sts. Row 1 (RS): K1, P1, * K1tbl, P1; rep from * to last st, K1. Row 2 (WS): * P1, K1; rep from * to last st, P1. These 2 rows set rib. Work 7 (7:8:8:8) cm as set, ending after a RS row. ** Next row (WS): Purl to end, inc 8 sts evenly across row. 103 (117:127:143:157) sts. Change to 4mm needles. Beg with a RS (knit) row and working in st st throughout, cont until work meas 35 (36:37:38:39) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Debbie Bliss Piper (DK weight; 50% cotton, 50% viscose; 200m/219yds per 100g ball)

GOLD (13)

Next row (RS dec): K2, skpo, knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. 2 sts dec’d. Next row (WS dec): P2, P2tog tbl, purl to last 4 sts, P2tog, P2. 2 sts dec’d. These 2 rows set decreases.

Work 2 (0:0:0:2) rows straight, without shaping, ending after a RS row. Work should now meas 35 (36:37:38:39) cm and match Back to armhole, ending at armhole edge.

Cast off 8 (9:11:12:14) sts at beg of next 4 rows. 45 (47:47:49:49) sts. Cast off rem sts. Place marker at the centre of these cast-off sts to denote centre back neck.

Cast off 6 (7:8:10:13) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 91 (103:111:123:131) sts.

Next row (WS): P65 (73:81:91:99) and AT THE SAME TIME inc 5 sts evenly across these sts, turn and leave rem

The Knitter 54 Issue 150

For general abbreviations, see p89

Dec 1 st as set at neck edge of next and 4 (6:10:14:14) foll RS rows, then on 17 (17:15:14:14) foll 4th rows. 47 (53:59:66:74) sts.

SHAPE SHOULDERS

RIGHT FRONT

YARN STOCKISTS Debbie Bliss c/o LoveCrafts 01409 404 010 www.lovecrafts.com

Row 3: K1, (K1tbl, P1) twice, K2, yo, sk2po, yo, K1, skpo, knit to end. 1 st dec’d. Row 4: Purl to last 5 sts, (K1, P1) twice, K1. These last 2 rows set neck shaping.

Cont without shaping until armholes measure 20 (21:22:23:24) cm from beg of shaping, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE ARMHOLES

22 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over st st on 4mm needles

Change to 4mm needles. Row 1 (RS): K1, (K1tbl, P1) twice, K2, yo, sk2po, yo, knit to end. Row 2: Purl to last 5 sts, (K1, P1) twice, K1.

Work 1 WS row straight. Work RS dec row. 2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows another 1 (2:2:1:1) times. 77 (83:91:97:105) sts.

FRONT

TENSION

30 (36:38:44:50) sts on a holder. 70 (78:86:96:104) sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 (5:5:9:9) rows as set. 81 (89:97:101:109) sts.

Work as for Back to **. 95 (109:119:135:149) sts.

x100g BALLS

1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles 1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles Stitch holders Stitch markers

SHAPE ARMHOLE Next row (WS): Cast off 6 (7:8:10:13) sts, patt to end. 41 (46:51:56:61) sts. Dec 1 st as set at neck edge of 1st (3rd:3rd: 3rd:1st) and every foll 4th row and AT THE SAME TIME dec at armhole edge as set on Back of next 5 (7:7:11:11) rows then on 2 (3:3:2:2) foll RS rows. When armhole edge decs are complete,

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Saltburn by the Sea BLOCKING DIAGRAM

Cont in rib as set on these 7 sts until they fit around to centre back neck, stretching slightly and sewing in place at the same time. Cast off in pattern.

55 (57:59:61:63) cm

SLEEVES 47 (53½:57½:65:71½) cm

cont to shape at front neck edge on 4th rows as set until 22 (24:28:30:34) sts rem. Cont without shaping until armhole matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending after a RS row.

SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off 8 (9:11:12:14) sts at beg of next and foll WS row. 6 sts.

NECK EDGING Next row (RS): Patt 6, cast on 1 st. 7 sts. Cont in rib as set on these 7 sts until they fit around to centre back neck, stretching slightly and sewing in place at same time. Cast off in patt.

LEFT FRONT Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 37 (39:45:49:51) sts, with WS facing, purl across sts left on a holder and AT THE SAME TIME inc 3 sts across these sts. 70 (78:86:96:104) sts. Change to 4mm needles. Row 1 (RS): Knit to last 10 sts, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, (P1, K1tbl) twice, K1. Row 2 (WS): K1, (P1, K1) twice, purl to end. Row 3: Knit to last 13 sts, K2tog, K1, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, (P1, K1tbl) twice, K1. Row 4: K1, (P1, K1) twice, purl to end. These last 2 rows set neck shaping. Dec 1 st as set at neck edge of next and

25 (26 :26 :27 :27 )c m

4 (6:10:14:14) foll RS rows, then on 17 (17:15:14:14) foll 4th rows. 47 (53:59:66:74) sts. Work 3 (1:1:1:3) rows, without shaping, ending with RS facing for next row. Work should now meas 35 (36:37:38:39) cm and match Back to armhole, ending at armhole edge.

SHAPE ARMHOLE Next row (RS): Cast off 6 (7:8:10:13) sts, patt to last 13 (0:0:0:13) sts, [K2tog, K1, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, (P1, K1tbl) twice, K1] 1 (0:0:0:1) time. 40 (46:51:56:60) sts. Dec 1 st as set at neck edge of 4th (2nd:2nd: 2nd:4th) and every foll 4th row and AT THE SAME TIME dec at armhole edge as set on Back of next 5 (7:7:11:11) rows then on 2 (3:3:2:2) foll RS rows. Cont to shape at front neck edge as set until 22 (24:28:30:34) sts rem. Cont without shaping until armhole matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE SHOULDER Cast off 8 (9:11:12:14) sts at beg of next and foll RS row. 6 sts.

NECK EDGING Next row (WS): Patt 6, cast on 1 st. 7 sts.

The Knitter 55 Issue 150

(both alike) Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 49 (53:55:57:59) sts. Work 7 rows in rib as set on Back. Next row (WS): P2 (4:2:3:1), (M1P, P3) 15 (15:17:17:19) times, M1P, P2 (4:2:3:1). 65 (69:73:75:79) sts. Change to 4mm needles. Row 1 (RS): K4 (6:2:3:5), *yo, sk2po, yo, K3; rep from * to last 1 (3:5:0:2) sts, (yo, sk2po, yo) 0 (0:1:0:0) times, K1 (3:2:0:2). Row 2 and every foll WS row: Purl. Rows 3 and 5: As row 1. Row 7: K1 (3:5:6:2), *yo, sk2po, yo, K3; rep from * to last 4 (6:2:3:5) sts, (yo, sk2po, yo) 1 (1:0:0:1) time, K1 (3:2:3:2). Row 8: Purl. These 8 rows set pattern. Working in patt as set throughout, working inc sts into st st, inc 1 st at each end of next and every foll 8th row to 75 (79:83:87:91) sts. Cont without shaping until sleeve measure 25 (26:26:27:27) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE SLEEVE TOP Cast off 6 (7:8:10:13) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 63 (65:67:67:65) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 (7:7:5:5) rows, 7 (7:7:7:5) foll RS rows, 3 (3:3:6:8) foll 4th rows, 2 (3:4:3:2) foll RS rows, then on 5 foll rows. 15 sts. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Cast off rem 9 sts.

MAKING UP Join side and sleeve seams. Sew in sleeves, easing in to fit. Sew cast-off ends of neck bands together at the back of the neck. Sew cast-on sts of left side of front in place behind right sts. Block garment gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ballband.

Eyelets run along the front openings; the sleeves use an all-over lace pattern

Our photoshoot has been styled with the distinctive, vibrant clothes of Gudrun SjĂśdĂŠn. Explore the collection at www.gudrunsjoden.com

THE SHORELINE COLLECTION

Anniken Allis

RHOSSILI BAY With its array of exquisite lace motifs, this beautiful shawl is a project youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll love to knit and wear

The Knitter 57 Issue 150

SIZE

TENSION

Wingspan: 168cm (66¼in) Length: 74cm (29¼in)

14 sts and 24 rows to 10cm over Chart C using 4mm needles

YARN Eden Cottage Yarns Bowland 4ply (4ply weight; 100% Bluefaced Leicester wool; 400m/436yds per 100g skein) Bluebell; 2 x 100g skeins

Anniken Allis

RHOSSILI BAY FORMED FROM a central wedge section framed by two large wings, this shawl is designed to sit well on the shoulders. Anniken Allis’s pattern has a wealth of stunning lace motifs, which are showcased beautifully by this yarn from Eden Cottage Yarns. The 4ply Bluefaced Leicester wool offers softness, a subtle halo and a gentle sheen.

PATTERN NOTES Placing locking stitch markers either side of the spine panel is recommended, and their placement is given on the beginning of the ‘Charts A and B’ section after the pattern begins. Move the markers up every few rows. Circular needles are used to accommodate the large number of stitches. Work in rows as normal. For each chart, only RS rows are shown. See pattern for WS rows. The written instructions for each chart are also provided below. The shawl pattern begins on page 60.

CHART PATTERNS CHART A Row 1 (RS): Yo, K1, yo. 3 sts. Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): See pattern. Row 3: Yo, K3, yo. 5 sts. Row 5: Yo, K5, yo. 7 sts. Row 7: Yo, K7, yo. 9 sts. Row 9: Yo, K1, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK, K1, yo. 11 sts. Row 11: Yo, K2, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK, K2, yo. 13 sts. Row 13: Yo, K3, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1,

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

SSK, K3, yo. 15 sts. Row 15: Yo, K3, K2tog, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1, SSK, K3, yo. 17 sts. Row 17: Yo, K3, K2tog, K1, yo, K5, yo, K1, SSK, K3, yo. 19 sts. Row 19: Yo, K1, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK, K1, yo. 21 sts. Row 21: Yo, K2, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK, K2, yo. 23 sts. Row 23: Yo, [K3, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK] twice, K3, yo. 25 sts. Row 25: Yo, K3, K2tog, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1, SSK, K1, K2tog, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1, SSK, K3, yo. 27 sts. Row 27: Yo, K3, K2tog, K1, yo, K5, yo, K1, sk2po, K1, yo, K5, yo, K1, SSK, K3, yo. 29 sts. Row 28: See pattern.

Row 1 (RS): Yo, K1, yo. 3 sts. Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): See pattern. Row 3: Yo, K3, yo. 5 sts. Row 5: Yo, K1, yo, sk2po, yo, K1, yo. 7 sts. Row 7: Yo, K1, yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, K1, yo. 9 sts. Row 9: Yo, K1, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K1, yo. 11 sts. Row 11: Yo, K1, (yo, SSK) twice, K1, (K2tog, yo) twice, K1, yo. 13 sts. Row 13: Yo, K3, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K3, yo. 15 sts. Row 15: Yo, (K1, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, SSK) twice, K1, yo. 17 sts. Row 17: Yo, K3, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, yo, SSK, K3, yo. 19 sts. Row 19: Yo, K2, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K5, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, yo. 21 sts. Row 21: Yo, K2, yo, SSK, K1, (K2tog, yo) twice, K3, (yo, SSK) twice, K1, K2tog, yo, K2, yo. 23 sts.

The Knitter 58 Issue 150

Eden Cottage Yarns www.edencottageyarns.co.uk

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS Sl 1 wyif: slip stitch purlwise with yarn in front then take yarn between needles to the back to work the following knit stitch. For general abbreviations, see p89

4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needles, at least 80cm long 2 locking stitch markers (optional)

CHART B

YARN STOCKISTS

Row 23: Yo, K2, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K5, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K2, yo. 25 sts. Row 25: Yo, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, SSK, yo. 27 sts. Row 27: Yo, K2, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, yo, SSK, K2, yo. 29 sts. Row 28: See pattern.

CHART C Note: Where differing numbers of repeats are given for this chart, work the first number given on the first repeat of 20 chart rows, the second number given on the second repeat of 20 chart rows, and so on. Row 1 (RS): Yo, K1, K2tog, K1, yo, *K1, yo, K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, K1, yo; rep from * 1 (3:5:7) more times, K1, yo, K1, SSK, K1, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): See pattern. Row 3: Yo, K2, K2tog, K1, yo, *K1, yo, K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, K1, yo; rep from * 1 (3:5:7) more times, K1, yo, K1, SSK, K2, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 5: Yo, K3, K2tog, K1, yo, *K1, yo, K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, K1, yo; rep from * 1 (3:5:7) more times, K1, yo, K1, SSK, K3, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 7: Yo, K2, *K1, K2tog, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1, SSK; rep from * 2 (4:6:8) more times, K3, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 9: Yo, K3, K2tog, K1, yo, K2, *K3, yo, K1, sk2po, K1, yo, K2; rep from * 1 (3:5:7) more times, K3, yo, K1, SSK, K3, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 11: Yo, *K1, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK, K2; rep from * 2 (4:6:8) more times, K1, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK, K1, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 13: Yo, *K2, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1,

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Rhossili Bay CHARTS

Chart A

KEY

Chart B

27 25 23

Chart D

Chart C

27 25 23

Yo K2tog SSK Sk2po

Chart E

K1tbl

19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1

19 13

K on RS; P on WS

Repeat

Chart F 19 15

11 9 7 5 3 1

Chart G 11 5 1

SSK, K1; rep from * 3 (5:7:9) more times, K1, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 15: Yo, K1, *K2, K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, SSK, K1; rep from * 3 (5:7:9) more times, K2, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 17: Yo, K2, *K1, K2tog, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1, SSK; rep from * 3 (5:7:9) more times, K3, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 19: Yo, K3, K2tog, K1, yo, K5, yo, K1, *sk2po, K1, yo, K5, yo, K1; rep from * 2 (4:6:8) more times, SSK, K3, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 20: See pattern.

CHART D Note: worked over 29 sts throughout. Row 1 (RS): Yo, SSK, (K2tog, yo) twice, K5, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K5, (yo, SSK) twice, K2tog, yo. Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): See pattern. Row 3: Yo, SSK, *K1, (K2tog, yo) twice, K3, (yo, SSK) twice; rep from * once more, K1, K2tog, yo. Row 5: As row 1. Row 7: Yo, SSK, *K1, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, yo, SSK; rep from * once more, K1, K2tog, yo. Row 9: Yo, SSK, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, sk2po, yo, K2, yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, K2, yo, SSK, K2tog, yo. Row 11: Yo, SSK, K3, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo,

K2tog, yo, K5, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K3, K2tog, yo. Row 13: Yo, SSK, K1, *K1 (yo, SSK) twice, K1, (K2tog, yo) twice, K2; rep from * once more, K2tog, yo. Row 15: As row 11. Row 17: As row 9. Row 19: As row 7. Row 20: See pattern.

CHART E Note: Where differing number of repeats are given for this chart, work the first number given on the first repeat of 20 chart rows, the second number given on the second repeat of 20 chart rows, and so on. Row 1 (RS): (Yo, K2tog) twice, yo, *K1, (yo, SSK) twice, K1, (K2tog, yo) twice; rep from * 9 (11:13) more times, K1, (yo, SSK) twice, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): See pattern. Row 3: Yo, (K2tog, yo) twice, K1, *K2, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K1; rep from * 9 (11:13) more times, K2, (yo, SSK) twice, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 5: Yo, K2, *K2tog, yo, K5, yo, SSK, K1; rep from * 10 (12:14) more times, K1, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 7: Yo, K2, K2tog, yo, K1, K2tog, yo, *K1, yo, SSK, K1, yo, sk2po, yo, K1, K2tog,

The Knitter 59 Issue 150

yo; rep from * 9 (11:13) more times, (K1, yo, SSK) twice, K2, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 9: Yo, K2, *K3, K2tog, yo, K3, yo, SSK; rep from * 10 (12:14) more times, K5, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 11: Yo, K3, *K4, yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, K1; rep from * 10 (12:14) more times, K6, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 13: Yo, K3, *K2tog, yo, K1, yo, SSK, K1, yo, sk2po, yo, K1; rep from * 10 (12:14) more times, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, SSK, K3, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 15: Yo, K3, *K2tog, yo, K3, yo, SSK, K3; rep from * 11 (13:15) more times, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 17: Yo, K2, *K1, (K2tog, yo) twice, K1, (yo, SSK) twice; rep from * 11 (13:15) more times, K3, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 19: Yo, K3, (K2tog, yo) twice, K1, *K2, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K1; rep from * 10 (12:14) more times, K2, (yo, SSK) twice, K3, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 20: See pattern.

CHART F Note: Worked over 29 sts throughout. Row 1 (RS): Yo, SSK, (K2tog, yo) twice, K5, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K5, (yo, SSK) twice, K2tog, yo. Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): See pattern.

Rhossili Bay Row 9: Yo, K2, (K2tog, yo) three times, *K1, (yo, SSK) twice, K1, (K2tog, yo) twice; rep from * 15 more times, K1, (yo, SSK) three times, K2, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 11: Yo, K2, (K2tog, yo) twice, K1tbl, K2tog, yo, *K1, yo, SSK, K1tbl, yo, sk2po, yo, K1tbl, K2tog, yo; rep from * 15 more times, K1, yo, SSK, K1tbl, (yo, SSK) twice, K2, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 12: See pattern.

SHAWL Using 4mm circular needles, cast on 3 sts. Set-up row 1: K to end. Set-up row 2: (K1, yo, K1) in each st. 9 sts. Set-up row 3: K to end.

CHARTS A AND B Pin out the points along the lower edge when blocking the shawl

Row 3: Yo, SSK, *K1, (K2tog, yo) twice, K3, (yo, SSK) twice; rep from * once more, K1, K2tog, yo. Row 5: Yo, SSK, (K2tog, yo) three times, K1, (yo, SSK) twice, yo, sk2po, (yo, K2tog) twice, yo, K1, (yo, SSK) three times, K2tog, yo. Row 7: As row 3. Row 9: As row 5. Row 11: Yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo, K1tbl, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, SSK, K1tbl, yo, K1tbl, sk2po, K1tbl, yo, K1tbl, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, SSK, K1tbl, yo, SSK, K1, K2tog, yo. Row 12: See pattern.

CHART G Row 1 (RS): (Yo, K2tog) twice, yo, *K1, (yo, SSK) twice, K1, (K2tog, yo) twice; rep from * 15 more times, K1, (yo, SSK) twice, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): See pattern. Row 3: Yo, (K2tog, yo) twice, K1, *K2, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K1; rep from * 15 more times, K2, (yo, SSK) twice, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 5: Yo, K1, *K1, (K2tog, yo) twice, K1, (yo, SSK) twice; rep from * 16 more times, K2, yo. 2 sts inc’d. Row 7: Yo, K2, (K2tog, yo) twice, K1, *K2, yo, SSK, yo, sk2po, yo, K2tog, yo, K1; rep from * 15 more times, K2, (yo, SSK) twice, K2, yo. 2 sts inc’d.

Note: stitches in bold are spine stitches. Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, K1, work row 1 of Chart A, K1, placing a locking stitch marker in this stitch, work row 1 of Chart B, K1, placing a locking stitch marker in this stitch, work row 1 of Chart A, K2. 6 sts inc’d. Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 sts, K2. Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, K1, work row 3 of Chart A, K1, work row 3 of Chart B, K1, work row 3 of Chart A, K2. 6 sts inc’d. Cont working as set until you have completed all 28 rows of Charts A and B once. 93 sts.

CHARTS C AND D Note: If following charted pattern rather than written pattern, work 2 reps of 10-st rep for each instance of Chart C on first repeat of this section, and then 4 reps on second repeat of this section, 6 reps on third repeat of this section and 8 reps on fourth repeat of this section. Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, K1, work row 1 of Chart C, K1, work row 1 of Chart D, K1, work row 1 of Chart C, K2. 4 sts inc’d. Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 sts, K2. Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, K1, work row 3 of Chart C, K1, work row 3 of Chart D, K1, work row 3 of Chart C, K2. 4 sts inc’d. Cont working as set until you have completed all 20 rows of Charts C and D once. 133 sts. Repeat all 20 rows of Charts C and D

The Knitter 60 Issue 150

another 3 times. As noted above, for each subsequent 20-row rep, work two additional 10-st reps in each Chart C section. 253 sts.

CHARTS E AND D Note: If following charted pattern rather than written pattern, work 10 reps of 10-st rep for each instance of Chart E on first repeat of this section, and then 12 reps on second repeat of this section, and 14 reps on third repeat of this section. Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, K1, work row 1 of Chart E, K1, work row 1 of Chart D, K1, work row 1 of Chart E, K2. 4 sts inc’d. Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 sts, K2. Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, K1, work row 3 of Chart E, K1, work row 3 of Chart D, K1, work row 3 of Chart E, K2. 4 sts inc’d. Cont working as set until you have completed all 20 rows of Charts E and D once. 293 sts. Repeat all 20 rows of Charts E and D twice more. As noted above, for each subsequent 20-row rep, work two additional 10-st reps in each Chart E section. 373 sts.

CHARTS G AND F Note: If following charted pattern rather than written pattern, work 16 reps of 10-st rep for each instance of Chart G. Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, K1, work row 1 of Chart G, K1, work row 1 of Chart F, K1, work row 1 of Chart G, K2. 4 sts inc’d. Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, K1, P to last 2 sts, K2. Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, K1, work row 3 of Chart G, K1, work row 3 of Chart F, K1, work row 3 of Chart G, K2. Cont working as set until you have completed all 12 rows of Charts G and F once. 397 sts. Cast off using the Russian Cast-off method as folls: K2, slip both sts back to LH needle, K2tog tbl, *K1, slip both sts back to LH needle, K2tog tbl; rep from * to end.

MAKING UP Weave in ends and block to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

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THE SHORELINE COLLECTION

Caroline Birkett

BALLINTOY HARBOUR Soft waves of colour ripple around this relaxed, comfortable cotton top with lacy details

The Knitter 61 Issue 150

SIZE TO FIT BUST UP TO

ACTUAL BUST

ACTUAL LENGTH

Caroline Birkett

BALLINTOY HARBOUR CAROLINE BIRKETT’S jumper uses lace stitches to create undulating waves of texture around the body and sleeves. The slip stitch stripes are worked in a sequence of three different colours. Caroline’s design has a neat ribbed V-neckline and cropped sleeves. It is knitted in a smooth, soft DK-weight cotton from Nurturing Fibres.

STITCH PATTERNS K1, P1 RIB (multiple of 2 sts + 1) Row 1 (WS): *K1, P1; rep from * to last st, K1. Row 2 (RS): *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, P1.

EDGING PATTERN (multiple of 22 sts + 13) Using yarn A: Row 1 (RS): K1, M1, *SSK, P7, K2tog, K5, yo, K1, yo, K5; rep from * to last 12 sts, SSK, P7, K2tog, M1, K1. Row 2 (WS): P3, *K7, P15; rep from * to last 10 sts, K7, P3. Row 3: K1, M1, K1, *SSK, P5, K2tog, K5, yo, K3, yo, K5; rep from * to last 11 sts, SSK, P5, K2tog, K1, M1, K1. Row 4: P4, *K5, P17; rep from * to last 9 sts, K5, P4. Row 5: K1, M1, K2, *SSK, P3, K2tog, K5, yo, K5, yo, K5; rep from * to last 10 sts, SSK, P3, K2tog, K2, M1, K1. Row 6: P5, *K3, P19; rep from * to last 8 sts, K3, P5. Row 7: K1, M1, K3, *SSK, P1, K2tog, K5, yo, K7, yo, K5; rep from * to last 9 sts, SSK, P1, K2tog, K3, M1, K1. Row 8: P6, *K1, P21; rep from * to last 7 sts, K1, P6.

SLEEVE SEAM

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

1XL

2XL

3XL

107

117

127

96½

107

117

126

137

147

46¼ 49½

53¾

59½ 60½

22½

22¾

23½

23¾

24½

24¾

11¾

12¼

Row 9: Using yarn B, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 10: Using yarn B, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 11: Using yarn A, K to end. Row 12: Using yarn C, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 13: Using yarn C, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 14: Using yarn A, P to end. Rows 15-22: Using yarn A, rep rows 1-8. Rows 23-28: Rep rows 9-14, using yarn C instead of yarn B on rows 9-10 and yarn D instead of yarn C on rows 12-13.

TENSION 23 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over st st using 4mm needles

Rows 29-36: Using yarn A, work in st st. Row 37: Using yarn C, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 38: Using yarn C, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 39: Using yarn A, K to end. Row 40: Using yarn D, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 41: Using yarn D, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 42 (WS): Using yarn A, P to end. Repeat these 42 rows for pattern.

FRONT PATTERN

STRIPE PATTERN (multiple of 2 sts + 1) Rows 1-8: Beg with a RS row and using yarn A, work 8 rows in st st. Row 9 (RS): Using yarn D, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 10 (WS): Using yarn D, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 11: Using yarn A, K to end. Row 12: Using yarn B, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 13: Using yarn B, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 14: Using yarn A, P to end. Rows 15-22: Using yarn A, work in st st. Row 23: Using yarn B, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 24: Using yarn B, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 25: Using yarn A, K to end. Row 26: Using yarn C, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 27: Using yarn C, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 28: Using yarn A, P to end.

The Knitter 62 Issue 150

1 pair 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) knitting needles 1 pair 4mm (UK 8/US 6) knitting needles 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) circular needles, 60cm long Stitch holders Stitch markers

(worked over 43 sts) Row 1 (RS): Yo, K5, SSK, P7, K2tog, K5, yo, K1, yo, K5, SSK, P7, K2tog, K5, yo. Row 2 (WS): P7, K7, P15, K7, P7. Row 3: K1, yo, K5, SSK, P5, K2tog, K5, yo, K3, yo, K5, SSK, P5, K2tog, K5, yo, K1. Row 4: P8, K5, P17, K5, P8. Row 5: K2, yo, K5, SSK, P3, K2tog, (K5, yo) twice, K5, SSK, P3, K2tog, K5, yo, K2. Row 6: P9, K3, P19, K3, P9. Row 7: K3, yo, K5, SSK, P1, K2tog, K5, yo, K7, yo, K5, SSK, P1, K2tog, K5, yo, K3. Row 8: P10, K1, P21, K1, P10.

BACK Using 3.75mm needles and yarn A, cast on 111 (123:135:145:157:169) sts. Row 1 (WS): *K1, P1; rep from * to last st, K1. Row 2 (RS): *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, P1. Row 3: P to end. Change to 4mm needles.

BEGIN EDGING PATTERN Row 1 (RS): K5 (0:6:0:6:1), work Row 1 of Edging Pattern to last 5 (0:6:0:6:1) sts,

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Ballintoy Harbour YARN

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

A MIST

x50g BALLS

B WILLOW

x50g BALLS

C WATERSHED

x50g BALLS

D MULBERRY

x50g BALLS

57 (58:59½:60½:62:63) cm

Nurturing Fibres Eco-Cotton (DK weight; 100% cotton; 125m/136yds per 50g ball)

cm 30 (31:31:33:33:33) 48½ (53½:58½:63:68½:73½) cm

For general abbreviations, see p89

YARN STOCKISTS Nurturing Fibres c/o Tangled Yarn 0161 217 0858 www.tangled-yarn.co.uk

CHARTS

KEY

Edging Pattern K5 (0:6:0:6:1). Row 2 (WS): P5 (0:6:0:6:1), work Row 1 of Edging Pattern to last 5 (0:6:0:6:1) sts, P5 (0:6:0:6:1). Cont in patt as set until Row 28 of Edging Pattern has been completed.** Work in Stripe Pattern until piece meas approx 41cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row, and making a note of which row of pattern you have worked. You will need this information as a reference point later when shaping Front Neck.

Yarn A

20 18

Yarn D

K on RS; P on WS

P on RS; K on WS

SSK

K2tog

8 6 4

Make 1

Cast off 4 (6:7:9:11:12) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 103 (111:121:127:135:145) sts.

Yarn C

SHAPE ARMHOLES

Yarn B

Sl 1 wyif on RS; Sl 1 wyib on WS

1 35

Repeat

Front Chart 8

Work even in patt until armhole meas 16 (17:18½:19½:21:22) cm from beginning of shaping, ending after a WS row.

1 40

SHAPE RIGHT BACK NECK AND SHOULDER Next row (RS): K34 (37:41:44:47:51), K2tog, turn. Cont in st st using yarn A on these 35 (38:42:45:48:52) sts only, dec 1 st at neck edge of next RS row, then cast off 11 (12:13:14:15:17) sts at beg of next 2 RS rows. Cast off rem 12 (13:15:16:17:17) sts on foll RS row.

SHAPE LEFT BACK NECK AND SHOULDER Slip first 31 (33:35:35:37:39) sts of centre back on holder for back neck. Join yarn A to rem 36 (39:43:46:49:53) sts with RS facing.

Cont in st st, dec 1 st at neck edge of next and foll RS row. 34 (37:41:44:47:51) sts. Cast off 11 (12:13:14:15:17) sts at beg of next 2 WS rows. Cast off rem 12 (13:15:16:17:17) sts on foll RS row.

FRONT Work as for Back to **, placing markers on final row as follows: 1 mrk after first 34 (40:46:51:57:63) sts, and 1 mrk after another 43 sts. 111 (123:135:145:157:169) sts total.

The Knitter 63 Issue 150

BEGIN FRONT PATTERN Row 1 (RS): Using yarn A, K to mrk, work Row 1 of Front Pattern to mrk, K to end. Row 2 (WS): P to mrk, work Row 2 of Front Pattern to mrk, P to end. Rows 3-8: Cont in st st and patt as set. Row 9 (RS): Using yarn D, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 10 (WS): Using yarn D, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 11: Using yarn A, K to end. Row 12: Using yarn B, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 13: Using yarn B, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1;

Ballintoy Harbour rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 14: Using yarn A, P to end. Rows 15-22: As rows 1-8. Row 23: Using yarn B, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 24: Using yarn B, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 25: Using yarn A, K to end. Row 26: Using yarn C, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 27: Using yarn C, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 28: Using yarn A, P to end. Rows 29-36: As rows 1-8. Row 37: Using yarn C, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 38: Using yarn C, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 39: Using yarn A, K to end. Row 40: Using yarn D, P1, *K1, Sl 1 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1. Row 41: Using yarn D, K1, *Sl 1 wyif, P1; rep from * to last 2 sts, Sl 1 wyif, K1. Row 42 (WS): Using yarn A, P to end. Rep Rows 1-42 until work meas approx 37cm from cast-on edge, ending after Row 4, 18, or 32 of pattern.

SHAPE V-NECK Note: Maintain patt where possible, keeping stitch counts correct. Next row (RS): K to mrk, patt 21, place last 55 (61:67:72:78:84) sts worked on holder for left neck, K1 and place this st on separate holder for centre neck, patt to end. Cont on these 55 (61:67:72:78:84) sts only for Right Front neck as follows. Note: Read ahead. Underarm and front neck shaping are worked AT THE SAME TIME.

SHAPE RIGHT FRONT NECK AND UNDERARM After neck has been divided, work right neck shaping as follows below ‘Neck Shaping’ AND AT THE SAME TIME, when Right Front measures 41cm from cast-on edge, ending after the same row as on Back, cast off 4 (6:7:9:11:12) sts on foll WS row for underarm.

NECK SHAPING Patt 1 WS row. Neck dec row (RS): K1, SSK, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 10 times more, then work one more WS row, ending after Row 14, 28, or 42 of Front Pattern. 11 neck sts dec’d.

Neck dec row (RS): Patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 1 st dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 10 times more, the work one more WS row, ending after Row 14, 28, or 42 of Front Pattern. 11 neck sts dec’d.

Next row (RS): S2kpo, K6, yo, K to end. 1 st dec’d. Next row (WS): P to end. Next row: S2kpo, K4, yo, K to end. 1 st dec’d. Next row: P to end. Next row: K1, SSK, K3, yo, K to end. Next row: P to end. Next row: S2kpo, K1, yo, K to end. 1 st dec’d; 3 neck sts dec’d. Work 3 rows even in patt, ending after Row 10, 24, or 38 of Front Pattern.

Next row (RS): Patt to last 9 sts, yo, K6, K3tog. 1 st dec’d. Next row (WS): P to end. Next row: Patt to last 7 sts, yo, K4, K3tog. 1 st dec’d. Next row: P to end. Next row: Patt to last 6 sts, yo, K3, K2tog, K1. Next row: P to end. Next row: Patt to last 4 sts, yo, K1, K3tog. 1 st dec’d. Work 3 rows even in patt, ending after Row 10, 24, or 38 of Front Pattern.

Next row (RS): Using yarn A, K1, SSK, K to end. 1 st dec’d. Work 3 rows even in patt, ending after Row 14, 28, or 42 of Front Pattern. Next row (RS): S2kpo, K2, yo, K to end. 1 st dec’d. Next row (WS): P to end. Next row: K1, SSK, K1, yo, K to end. Next row: P to end. Next row: K1, SSK, K to end. 1 st dec’d. Work 3 rows even in patt, ending after Row 8, 22, or 36 of Front Pattern.

Next row (RS): Using yarn A, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 1 st dec’d. Work 3 rows even in patt, ending after Row 14, 28, or 42 of Front Pattern.

Sizes M-3XL only Next row (RS): K1, SSK, patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Cont in Stripe Patt as set, dec 1 st at neck edge of every foll 4th row - (0:1:1:2:3) times more. All sizes 34 (37:41:44:47:51) sts rem after all shaping has been completed. Work even in patt until Front meas same as Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending after a RS row. Cast off 11 (12:13:14:15:17) sts at beg of next 2 WS rows, then cast off rem 12 (13:15:16:17:17) sts on foll RS row.

SHAPE LEFT FRONT NECK AND UNDERARM With WS facing, join yarn to 55 (61:67:72: 78:84) sts held for left front neck. Work left neck shaping as follows below ‘Neck Shaping’ AND AT THE SAME TIME, when Left Front meas 41cm from cast-on edge, ending after the same row as on Back, cast off 4 (6:7:9:11:12) sts on foll RS row for underarm.

NECK SHAPING Patt 1 WS row.

The Knitter 64 Issue 150

Next row (RS): Patt to last 5 sts, yo, K2, K3tog. 1 st dec’d. Next row (WS): P to end. Next row: Patt to last 4 sts, yo, K1, K2tog, K1. Next row: P to end. Next row: Patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 1 st dec’d. Work 3 rows even in patt, ending after Row 8, 22, or 36 of Front Pattern. Sizes M-3XL only Next row (RS): Patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 1 st dec’d. Cont in Stripe Patt as set, dec 1 st at neck edge of every foll 4th row - (0:1:1:2:3) times more. All sizes 34 (37:41:44:47:51) sts rem after all shaping has been completed. Work even in patt until work meas same as Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending after a WS row. Cast off 11 (12:13:14:15:17) sts at beg of next 2 RS rows, then cast off rem 12 (13:15:16:17:17) sts on foll RS row.

SLEEVES (both alike) Using 3.75mm needles and yarn A,

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Ballintoy Harbour cast on 59 (61:61:63:65:65) sts. Rows 1 and 3 (WS): *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, P1. Row 2 (RS): *K1, P1; rep from * to last st, K1. Change to 4mm needles.

BEGIN EDGING PATTERN Row 1 (RS): K1, M1, K1 (2:2:3:4:4), pm, work row 1 of Edging Pattern [omitting initial K1, M1 of Edging Pattern] to last 2 (3:3:4:5:5) sts of Sleeve, [ending before last M1, K1 of Edging Pattern] and working stitch repeat twice, pm, K1 (2:2:3:4:4), M1, K1. Row 2 (WS): Purl to mrk, slm, work patt as set to mrk, slm, P to end. These 2 rows set the pattern worked between markers and st st at each edge, with the M1 sts balancing decreases in the Edging Pattern. Cont as set until Row 28 of chart has been completed.

SHAPE SLEEVES Begin Stripe Pattern and sleeve increases: Begin working Stripe Pattern over all sts; AT THE SAME TIME, starting on row 1 of patt, work increases as foll: Inc row (RS): K1, M1, patt to last st, M1, K1. 2 sts inc’d. Work 5 (5:3:3:3:1) rows even in patt. Rep Inc row. 2 sts inc’d. Work 7 (7:5:3:3:3) rows even in patt. Rep last 14 (14:10:10:8:6) rows 2 (3:5:5:6:9) times more. 71 (77:85:87:93:105) sts. Cont in patt until Sleeve meas approx. 30 (31:31:33:33:33) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row of st st has been worked.

Our photoshoot has been styled with the distinctive, vibrant clothes of Gudrun Sjödén. Explore the collection at www.gudrunsjoden.com

Cast off.

MAKING UP Weave in all ends and block gently to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Join shoulder seams.

NECKBAND With RS facing, using 3.75mm circular needles and yarn A, beg at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 54 (57:60:63:67:71) sts down left front neck, K1 from front holder and mark this st with removable marker, pick up and knit 54 (57:60:63: 67:71) sts long up right front neck, pick up

and knit 9 sts down right back neck edge, knit across 31 (33:35:35:37:39) held back neck sts, pick up and knit 9 sts up left back neck. Pm and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. 158 (166:174:180:190:200) sts. Rnd 1: Beginning with a K (P:K:P:P:P) stitch, work in 1x1 rib to centre front neck stitch, knit this stitch, then beginning with a P stitch, work in 1x1 rib to end.

The Knitter 65 Issue 150

Rnd 2: Patt to 1 st before marked st, s2kpo (remove mrk below and place in this st), patt to end. 2 sts dec’d. Rnd 3: Patt to marked st, K1 (remove mrk below and place in this st), patt to end. Rep last 2 rnds 4 times more. Cast off in patt of Rnd 2.

FINISHING Sew sleeves in place. Sew underarm and side seams, carefully matching stripes.

H I S T O R I C K N I T T I N G A R T E FAC T S – PA R T 4

Sarah Hunter’s Gloves Penelope Hemingway explores the story behind a pair of Dales colourwork gloves from 1850, and explains how she developed a new knitting pattern from an old sketch THE TRADITION of two-colour glove knitting in the Dales region of Britain was written about in the 1951 book by Marie Hartley and Joan Ingilby, The Old Hand-Knitters of the Dales. In the 19th century, Dales knitters in Yorkshire produced intricately patterned gloves as a way to earn much-needed income. There is an illustration of a particular glove in The Old Hand-Knitters of the Dales which was captioned by Miss Hartley: “Swaledale, S. Hunter c. 1850 Black and Red wool”. Sadly, these gloves are lost, and no extant pairs of Dales gloves have been knitted in red and black wool. I have seen a pink and white pair of child’s gloves, however - the pink possibly faded from red - so it’s possible that Dales gloves were sometimes brightly dyed, as well as made from the more familiar contrasting natural shades of wool. Miss Hartley recorded that the gloves were “.. made almost a hundred years ago at one of the lonely farms at the head of the dale [Swaledale]. They belong to Miss H. Banks of Askrigg, and were knitted by her mother when she was a girl…”. This might give us the identity of another Dales glove knitter. For those interested in British knitting history, this is exciting, as currently, Mary Allen (1857-1924) is the only known named Victorian knitter of Dales gloves. So, I decided to go in search of Miss H. Banks’ mother, realising that if I could find her, we would have discovered the name of another Dales glove knitter.

learned to knit, as all Dales knitters did, from a grandparent or parent. Sarah’s mother was the daughter of a farmer/ lead miner. Her name was Peggy Hunter, née Cooper. Peggy (Margaret) was born around 1816, in Muker. Peggy would be a shoo-in for the typical Dales knitter: “...The miners and their families all knitted both stockings for their own use and for sale. The thrifty ones often gathered fallen wool, and carded, spun and knitted it in their own homes…” [THE OLD HAND-KNIT TERS OF THE DALES, p.32]

I knew I had found the right ‘Miss Banks’ as the name knitted in to the glove was “S. Hunter” - “NTER” being visible on Marie Hartley’s original illustration - and Sarah herself was the only one in the family with the ‘S’ initial in the 1851 census. Dales children learned to knit around the age of four, and by five or six could knit more complex items like gloves. The oldest, extant dated Dales gloves are from 1846, so if (as Marie Hartley was told) this one had been made around 1850, it would

rival the oldest surviving dated gloves. It’s likely the Dales two-colour knitting tradition stretched back further than the 1850s or ’40s, into the late 18th century. Men and women knitted Dales gloves professionally. A child like Sarah may well have made her own, and these, more personalised ones, are typical of survivors of the lost tradition. Only a handful of Dales gloves remain today, but they were once knitted in the tens of thousands and sold widely across the UK and further afield. Askrigg, where shopkeeper Miss Banks showed Marie Hartley these gloves, had been a centre for the stocking trade for centuries. Some of Miss Banks’ ancestors and relatives farmed, and many farmers in this area were also hosiers, or agents for the hand-knitted stocking industry. Sarah’s father was a miner farming 20 acres. In the Dales, combining mining with farming was common - miners’ families often contained some of the most renowned knitters. The other pair of gloves I have researched, (with the name “G Walton, 1846”), belonged to a lead miner.

The gloves were made in Askrigg, a village in North Yorkshire

Rural traditions LEFT: RDIMAGES/EPICS/GETTY IMAGES

Askrigg is a small village in Wensleydale, North Yorkshire. The only ‘H Banks’ I could find in Askrigg was Hannah Banks, born there in 1866. She kept a glass and china shop in 1911. Her mother was Sarah Banks, née Hunter, born 1839 in Hartlakes, Muker. She would have been aged 12 in 1850, around the time she knitted the gloves. She is likely to have

The Knitter 66 Issue 150

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Knitting history

3 1 + 2 The (now lost) gloves were examined and sketched for the 1951 book The Old HandKnitters of the Dales 3 Penelope’s recreation of the gloves; you can find her pattern overleaf

1 Searching for clues The gloves were illustrated by Marie Hartley around 1949, and I have recreated them from Miss Hartley’s illustration you can find my pattern instructions on the next pages. Miss Hartley, an artist trained at the Slade School, would have borrowed the gloves to illustrate them, but most likely returned them to Miss Banks. It is so sad that they were still around in 1949 and yet no longer are. Sarah’s gloves used the ‘Shepherd’s Plaid’ pattern; we know they were knitted in Muker, by a child from that village, whose mother had also been born in that village. But whether the pattern which appears on those gloves was typical of Muker, we cannot say. No other gloves with this pattern are extant from the Dales. Sanquhar gloves from Scotland featuring a similar pattern, however, are still extant. As Sarah’s daughter, ‘Miss H Banks’, appears to have kept a shop in Askrigg in later life. Miss Hartley didn’t have to go far to find this unusual pair: Misses Hartley and Ingilby also lived in Askrigg. No doubt the gloves were thrown out as worthless ‘old’ woollens, when Miss Banks died. All the other gloves illustrated in The Old Hand-Knitters of the Dales survive to this day in museums; I have seen, and documented, a number of them. It is something, at least, to recreate Sarah Hunter’s gloves and to have traced their original knitter. What’s even more fascinating is that we know the lost gloves were said to be made around 1850, which proves my long-held theory that

many items of Dales knitting were made by children. I first came to this conclusion, documenting the “G. Walton 1846” gloves, when I noticed the right and left hand were not identical. Each had its own characteristic errors, which led me to believe each hand was knitted by a different knitter and those knitters were very likely children. I was unable to recreate the welt area, as Miss Hartley’s sketch rendered that as a series of linear squiggles. And whilst a figurative motif is not represented in any surviving Dales gloves, I decided to go with the clover pattern because it was a common-enough motif in related traditions like Fair Isle and Scandinavian knitting. I doubt the originals had a figurative pattern, as abstract ones are all I have seen on surviving gloves. The gauntlets on my pattern are one motif deeper than Sarah’s, because older gloves often had longer gauntlets. It could easily be omitted, though, by the clever knitter. All knitters are, of course, clever by default. So long as you have the requisite 84 stitches by the time you hit Chart D, omitting the clover pattern is down to the knitter’s taste. The palms aren’t visible in the original drawing, so I took the unusual step of running the Shepherd’s Plaid pattern right a round the glove, on the back of the hand and palm like a Sanquhar glove which generally has the same pattern the whole way round the body of the glove. Most known extant Dales gloves are slightly more complex; having one pattern on the back of the hand and a second one on the palm. Only around

The Knitter

Issue 150

13 Dales gloves are extant, though, which means we do not know how representative those pairs are. It could be that all Dales gloves had a palm pattern and a back-of-hand pattern. Or it could be that some were, like the Sanquhar gloves, running just one single pattern round the entire hand. I suspect it’s most likely both types of glove could be found. Like the other extant old pair of gloves, the “G. Walton, 1846” gloves at the Wordsworth Trust in Cumbria, these are fringed rather than having a ribbed welt. This seems to be a characteristic of some older gloves. If you prefer, omit the fringe and knit a simple K1, P1 ribbed welt making the purl stitches dark and the knit stitches light. I am guessing older gloves had fringed gauntlets without ribbing, as they originated as copies of sewn gloves which also often had long, not stretchy, gauntlets. Apart from the famous Mary Allen, who lived well into the 20th century, no other specific Dales glove knitter has been named, identified or linked with an extant glove - until now. And although Sarah Hunter’s gloves are now lost, there was enough information in the Hartley illustration for me to recreate them with a reasonable degree of accuracy. FURTHER READING - The Old Hand-Knitters of the Dales by Marie Hartley and Joan Ingilby (Cooperative Press reprint, 2013) is available from www.cooperativepress. com or www.amazon.co.uk – Penelope Hemingway’s blog: www.theknittinggenie.com

SIZE

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

To fit palm circumference: 18-20cm (7¼-8in) Actual palm circumference: 17½cm (7in) Length from end of cuff to fingertips: adjustable to fit

1 set 1.5mm (UK 17/US 000) double-pointed needles (DPNs), or circular needles, 80cm long, for Magic Loop Stitch marker Waste yarn or stitch holders

YARN

TENSION

Jamieson & Smith Shetland Heritage (4ply weight; 100% Shetland wool; 110m/120yds per 25g ball) A Snaa White; 2 x 25g balls B Madder; 2 x 25g balls

46 sts and 44 rounds to 10cm over Main Pattern using 1.5mm needles

YARN STOCKISTS Jamieson & Smith 01595 693579 www.shetlandwoolbrokers.co.uk

PENELOPE HEMINGWAY

Sarah Hunter’s Gloves THIS GLOVE pattern is a replica of a pair made in around 1850 by a Dales knitter, Sarah Hunter, whose story Penelope Hemingway explores on page 66. “Traditionally, Dales gloves had a white or cream background and a dark natural colour for the pattern,” says Penelope. “Sarah Hunter’s pair were knitted in red and black.” Our sample uses red and cream shades of Jamieson & Smith’s Shetland Heritage wool.

PATTERN NOTES When working Chart B, you may like to substitute initials or a name for the motifs in rounds 5 to 11. If so, you can either work as stranded colourwork, or add the letters as duplicate stitch during finishing. See the alphabet charts overleaf for traditional style lettering.

RIGHT GLOVE Using 1.5mm needles and yarn B, cast on 80 sts. Do not join.

CUFF Row 1: *Loop stitch; rep from * to end. Pm and join to work in the rnd. 80 sts (it is recommended to check your stitch count again after working the loop stitches). Rnd 1: With yarn B, knit.

WORK CHARTS Stranding yarns not in use loosely behind work and continuing in st st throughout, work charts as follows: Complete Chart A once in full, repeating sts four times around. Complete Chart B once in full, noting that

you are working the palm of hand at start of rnd (if you are adding in your own initials or name for Rnds 5 to 11). Complete Chart C once in full, repeating sts 10 times around. Inc rnd: Using yarn A, (M1, K20) 4 times. 84 sts.**

SET THUMB Work Rnds 1 to 2 of Chart D, repeating sts six times around. Next rnd: Work Rnd 1 of Chart E, work Rnd 3 of Chart D. 85 sts. Cont as set, working Charts E and D a further 23 rnds to complete Chart E once. 107 sts. Next rnd: Place 23 thumb sts on waste yarn, work in patt to end. 84 sts.

throughout, rejoin yarn and knit next 10 sts from palm of hand, cast on 7 sts (between 2nd and 3rd fingers), knit last 10 sts from back of hand, pick up and knit 9 sts from side of 1st finger, leaving rem hand sts on hold. 36 sts. Work straight until finger meas 3 rnds shorter than desired length. Dec rnd: Cont in patt, *K2tog; rep from * to end. 18 sts. Rep Dec rnd once more. 9 sts. Cut yarn, draw end through rem sts and pull tight. Weave in ends securely on inside.

THIRD FINGER

Cont working only Chart D a further 16 rnds to complete Chart D three times in full.

Next rnd: Working in Chart F patt throughout, rejoin yarn and knit next 10 sts from palm of hand, cast on 6 sts (between third and fourth fingers), knit last 11 sts from back of hand, pick up and knit 7 sts from side of second finger. 34 sts. Complete as for First Finger from *** to ***.

FIRST FINGER

FOURTH FINGER

Next rnd: Working in Chart F patt throughout, knit first 11 sts of palm, cast on 12 sts (between 1st and 2nd fingers), knit last 11 sts of rnd from back of hand, leaving rem hand sts on hold. 34 sts. ***Work straight until finger meas 3 rnds shorter than desired length. Dec rnd 1: Cont in patt, *K2tog; rep from * to end. 17 sts. Dec rnd 2: Cont in patt, K1, *K2tog; rep from * to end. 9 sts. Cut yarn, draw end through rem sts and pull tight. Weave in end securely on inside.***

Next rnd: Working in Chart F patt throughout, rejoin yarn and knit next 11 sts from palm of hand, knit last 10 sts from back of hand, pick up and knit 11 sts from side of 3rd finger. 32 sts. Work straight until finger meas 3 rnds shorter than desired length. Dec rnd: Cont in patt, *K2tog; rep from * to end. 16 sts. Rep Dec rnd once more. 8 sts. Cut yarn, draw end through rem sts and pull tight. Weave in ends securely on inside.

HAND

THUMB SECOND FINGER Next rnd: Working in Chart F patt

The Knitter 68 Issue 150

Next rnd: Rejoin yarn to 23 sts from thumb holder, pick up and knit 11 sts over gap on

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Sarah Hunterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gloves SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS Loop stitch: K1 with yarn B leaving st on left-hand needle, bring one strand of each of yarn A and yarn B to front of work, holding left thumb in front of work wrap both strands of yarn once around thumb and take both strands to back of work and K1 into same st with both strands allowing st to drop from left-hand needle, then knit 3 new sts on right-hand needle together through the back loops with yarn B. M1RP: Make 1 right purlwise. Bring the top of the left-hand needle under the strand between stitch from back to front. Purl through the front of this loop. For general abbreviations, see p89

hand. 34 sts. Work straight, keeping pattern correct, until thumb meas 3 rnds shorter than desired length. Dec rnd 1: Cont in patt, *K2tog; rep from * to end. 17 sts. Dec rnd 2: Cont in patt, K1, *K2tog; rep from * to end. 9 sts. Cut yarn, draw end through rem sts and pull tight. Weave in ends securely on inside.

FINISHING Use yarn B to duplicate stitch any initials or names in Chart B if preferred. Weave in any rem ends neatly on WS of work and block glove following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Tip: When washing, dry partially, then as you finish drying, dry flat with the thumbs weighted under something to help them lie flat.

LEFT GLOVE Work as for Right Glove to ** noting that you are working back of hand at start of rnd (if you are adding initials/name for Chart B Rnds 5 to 11). 84 sts.

SET THUMB Work Rnds 1 to 2 of Chart D, repeating sts six times around. Next rnd: Work Rnd 3 of Chart D to end, work Rnd 1 of Chart E. 85 sts. Cont as set, working Charts D and E a further 23 rnds to complete Chart E once. 107 sts. Next rnd: Work in patt to last 23 sts, place 23 thumb sts on waste yarn. 84 sts.

Loop stitches give a fringed effect to the cuffs

HAND

Complete as for Right Glove Second Finger.

Cont working only Chart D a further 15 rnds to complete Chart D three times in full.

THIRD FINGER

FIRST FINGER Next rnd: Working in Chart F patt throughout, knit first 11 sts of back of hand, cast on 12 sts (between 1st and 2nd fingers), knit last 11 sts of rnd from palm of hand, leaving rem hand sts on hold. 34 sts. Complete as for Right Glove First Finger.

SECOND FINGER Next rnd: Working in Chart F patt throughout, rejoin yarn and knit next 10 sts from back of hand, cast on 7 sts (between 2nd and 3rd fingers), knit last 10 sts from palm of hand, pick up and knit 9 sts from side of first finger, leaving rem hand sts on hold. 36 sts.

The Knitter 69 Issue 150

Next rnd: Working in Chart F patt throughout, rejoin yarn and knit next 11 sts from back of hand, cast on 6 sts (between 3rd and 4th fingers), knit last 10 sts from palm of hand, pick up and knit 7 sts from side of 2nd finger. 34 sts. Complete as for Right Glove Third Finger.

FOURTH FINGER Next rnd: Working in Chart F patt throughout, rejoin yarn and knit next 10 sts from back of hand, knit last 10 sts from palm of hand, pick up and knit 12 sts from side of third finger. 32 sts. Complete as for Right Glove Fourth Finger.

THUMB AND FINISHING Complete as for Right Glove.

Sarah Hunterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gloves CHARTS Chart B

Chart A 13 12

1 20

Chart C

9 7

6 4 2 15

4 2 10

1 10

Chart F 23

Yarn A

Yarn B

M1PR

no stitch

1 20

Alphabet I to M

KEY

Alphabet E to H

Chart E

1 15

Alphabet A to D

Chart D

1 35

Alphabet N to Q 7

1 30

Alphabet R to U 7

Add initials or a name above the cuff section, if desired

1 30

Alphabet V to Z 7

1 50

Blank chart for planning lettering placement on Chart B section 7

1 80

The Knitter 70 Issue 150

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OUTI K ATER

Sandefjord Nordic-inspired stranded colourwork decorates these cosy socks The Knitter

Issue 150

SIZE

YARN

TO FIT FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE

ACTUAL FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE

LENGTH FROM CUFF TO BOTTOM OF HEEL

FOOT LENGTH

OUTI KATER

Sandefjord “A SIMPLE Nordic stitch pattern has been used for these socks, which are knitted from the top down using soft red and cream shades of a sportweight sock yarn,” says designer Outi Kater. “The socks have got triangular heel and symmetrical flat toe construction which doesn’t require grafting. The pattern comes in two different foot widths and ankle lengths.” Novita’s Nalle yarn is a wool-polyamide blend which comes in a range of warm solid colours including moss green, mustard and denim blue.

SOCKS CUFF Using 2.5mm DPNs (or circular needles, if preferred), yarn A and the long-tail method, cast on 64 (72) sts. Pm and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts. Rib round: *K2, P2; rep from * to end. Rep rib round 9 more times.

9½

10½

8¾

9¾

22½

6¾

25½

9½

Novita Nalle (Light DK/sport weight; 75% wool, 25% polyamide; 260m/284yds per 100g ball) A Pomegranate (533); 1 x 100g ball B Linen (061); 1 x 100g ball

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

Note: Foot length is adjustable in pattern. Length given here assumes no further rounds are worked after ending charted foot section, before beginning of toe shaping.

HEEL FLAP

- (19) sts.

Keep the first 17 (19) sts on the needle, slip the following 31 (35) sts onto a stitch holder for the instep and keep the last 16 (18) sts on the needle. Heel is worked over the rem 33 (37) sts only. With RS facing, rejoin yarn A. Row 1 (RS): *Sl 1 pwise, K1; rep from * to last st, K1. Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 pwise, purl to last st, K1. Rep these 2 rows another 12 (14) times.

TURN HEEL Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 pwise, K17 (19), skpo, w&t. Row 2 (WS): P4, P2tog, w&t. Row 3: K5, skpo, w&t. Row 4: P6, P2tog, w&t. Row 5: K7, skpo, w&t. Row 6: P8, P2tog, w&t. Row 7: K9, skpo, w&t. Row 8: P10, P2tog, w&t. Row 9: K11, skpo, w&t. Row 10: P12, P2tog, w&t. Row 11: K13, skpo, w&t. Row 12: P14, P2tog, w&t. Row 13: K15, skpo, w&t. Row 14: P16, P2tog, w&t.

1 set 2.5mm (UK 12-13/US 1-2) double-pointed needles (DPNs), or circular needles, 60-80cm long, for Magic Loop 1 set 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) double-pointed needles (DPNs), or circular needles, 60-80cm long, for Magic Loop Stitch markers Stitch holder

Both sizes Break yarn.

GUSSET Slip first 8 (9) sts of the heel to right-hand needle. Pm to mark new beg of round at centre of heel. Round 1: With RS facing, rejoin yarn B (yarn A) and work round 1 of Chart B for your size as follows: work 9 (10) sts in patt, pick up and knit 13 (15) sts in patt down first side of heel flap, M1L, pm, work 31 (35) stitches in patt, pm, M1L, pick up and knit 13 (15) sts up second side of heel flap, work 8 (9) sts in patt. 76 (86) sts.

BEGIN CHART Change to 3mm needles. Work rounds 1-14 of Chart A for your size, repeating the 8-st patt rep 8 (9) times around. Repeat rounds 1-14 of Chart A for your size once (twice) more, then work only rounds 1-5 of Chart A once more. Break both yarns.

Size S only Row 15: K15, skpo, w&t. Row 16: P15, P2tog, turn. 17 (-) sts. Size L only Row 15: K17, skpo, w&t. Row 16: P18, P2tog, w&t. Row 17: K17, skpo, w&t. Row 18: P17, P2tog, turn.

The Knitter 72 Issue 150

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Sandefjord TENSION

YARN STOCKISTS

CHARTS

KEY

30 sts and 42 rounds to 10cm over ribbing on 2.5mm needles. 29 sts and 31 rounds to 10cm over Chart patt on 3mm needles. 31 sts and 60 rows to 10cm over heel stitch on 3mm needles. 30 sts and 33 rounds to 10cm over st st on 3mm needles.

Novita www.novitaknits.com

Chart A (Size S)

Chart A (Size L)

14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

For general abbreviations, see p89

Yarn A

14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Yarn B Skpo K2tog Make 1 Left No stitch

Chart B (Size L) 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 85

Chart B (Size S) 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 75

The colourwork pattern is easy to follow

The Knitter 73 Issue 150

Sandefjord

Round 2: Work round 2 of Chart B for your size as follows: work to 2 sts before mrk, K2tog, slm, work 31 (35) sts in patt, slm, skpo, work to end. 2 sts dec’d. Cont as set for a further 10 (12) rounds to complete Chart B for your size. 64 (72) sts.

in st st until foot meas 5 (5½) cm less than desired foot length.

SHAPE TOE

Work rounds 4-14 (6-14) of Chart A for your size, repeating the 8-st patt rep 8 (9) times around.

Round 1 (dec): K to 3 sts before mrk, K2tog, K1, slm, skpo, knit to 2 sts before mrk, K2tog, slm, K1, skpo, knit to end. 4 sts dec’d. Round 2: Knit. Rep these 2 rounds twice more. 52 (60) sts. Rep dec round only a further 10 (12) times. 12 sts.

Work rounds 1-14 of Chart A for your size once more.

Break yarn, draw through rem sts and fasten off securely.

Rep only rounds 1-5 of Chart A once more. Break yarn B.

TO MAKE UP

FOOT

With yarn A, knit 1 round or work straight

Weave in ends and gently block to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band.

The Knitter 74 Issue 150

Novita Nalle is a cosy sportweight yarn

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TOP TIPS FOR SOCK KNITTERS

Rhian Drinkwater shares her expert advice on stress-free sock knitting, and achieving a perfect fit and finish CHOOSE YOUR HEEL Remember: you don’t have to use the heel type specified in any sock pattern you’re following. Different heel types give very different amounts of room around the ankles, and the one in the pattern may simply be the one that works best for the designer. Heels are generally worked over half the stitches and can often be simply substituted for each other. If the pattern uses a short-row heel and you have a large instep, switch it for a heel flap construction. If your heel is quite narrow, you can even work it over fewer than half the stitches – just leave the edges in stocking stitch. Read more in our heels masterclass in Issue 138.

About our expert Rhian Drinkwater is a knitting writer, editor, designer and prolific sock knitter, who has created many beautiful sock patterns for The Knitter and Simply Knitting magazines.

WHETHER YOU’RE new to sock knitting, or have made a fair few pairs already, there are many different tricks worth knowing to get the best possible results. We’ve put together our top tips for improving the look, fit and resilience of your socks.

PICK A RESILIENT YARN Pure wool sock yarns can feel lovely, but they’re best kept as house socks if you don’t want to see holes in the toes and heels. Many purposely designed sock yarns contain 20-25% nylon for a sturdier finished knit. Tightly spun yarn will also last longer than loosely spun. Meanwhile, cotton-blend yarns will look lovely at first, but can quickly stretch out of shape and bag around your foot.

KEEP YOUR CUFFS STRETCHY Getting the cast-on (cuff-down socks) or cast-off (toe-up socks) right can be tricky. You need the cuffs to cling around the calf and not fall down, but they also need to be big enough to stretch over your ankle. If you’re working cuff-down, use a long-tail or Twisted German cast-on, and consider casting on over two needles. If you’re working toe-up, use Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off, which does exactly as it says and gives the perfect sock cuff finish. You can read more about this cast-off at https://bit.ly/jenyssbo

The Knitter 76 Issue 150

Find the heel type that suits you - a Dutch heel gives a wider fit, for example

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Masterclass AVOID HOLES AFTER THE HEEL

THINK ABOUT COLOUR CHANGES Knitters often work socks in their favourite yarns rather than the ones the socks were originally designed in – this is a great way of personalising them, but do remember that the colours might work differently, and different sock elements work better with different colour changes. If you’re using a self-striping sock yarn, an afterthought heel is the best way to preserve the colour order. For a variegated yarn, a short-row heel will mean that the stitch count stays consistent on both the leg and foot of the sock – the longer round lengths given by a heel flap gusset will ‘pool’ the colour changes differently.

Once you’ve finished your heel flap and are working in the round again, it’s really common to find holes in the fabric either side of the heel flap. To avoid these, pick up one or two extra stitches either side of the top of the sock. So pick up your gusset stitches down the heel flap, then continue down the same column of stitches for an additional stitch or two, before beginning to knit across the top of the sock. Then when you’re ready to work back down the other side of the heel flap, pick up your first couple of stitches from the leg of the sock, in line with the edge of the heel flap. Voilà! No pesky holes.

TWIST THOSE STITCHES When you work your second round after the heel, work all the picked-up stitches along the sides of the heel flap through the back loop. This helps tighten them up and makes the edges much neater.

AVOID SECOND SOCK SYNDROME We all know the joy of finishing one sock, only to have to go right back to the beginning of the pattern to knit the second one. If you struggle to cast on that second sock right away, instead being lured away by more tempting new projects, try knitting both socks at the same time. This can be done using two sets of needles, or one long circular where you knit one round of one sock, then one round of the second, round and round as you go.

Try your hand at darning to help your socks to last a bit longer

PREPARE FOR DARNING No matter how many tricks you try, you’re sure to get holes eventually in a knit that gets as much friction and wear as a sock – most probably at the heel or toe. Don’t throw away all your hard work; instead, invest in a darning mushroom and always hang on to a small amount of the original yarn so you’re ready and waiting when those holes appear. Alternatively, if the hole is in the toe, you may prefer to just rip back the end of the sock and reknit it.

BLOCK THOSE SOCKS REINFORCE YOUR HEEL FLAP If you are knitting a heel flap, slip every other stitch on each right-side row as you work. This will create a double thickness of fabric, as the yarn strands over the back of the slipped stitches - so you’re less likely to get a hole there when it rubs against the back of your shoe. If you slip the same stitches each row, you’ll get a column effect, which looks great flowing on from a ribbed leg design. If you offset every other row, you’ll get a pretty ‘eye of partridge’ pattern like on the socks pictured above. If you’re particularly prone to holes here, you can also hold a reinforcing thread alongside your yarn for this section, for extra strength.

Invest in a set of sock blockers, and whenever you wash your handknit socks, let them dry on the blockers. We promise you, you’ll be amazed at the difference it makes! This is particularly good for gifted socks, as it evens out your stitches and makes the finished project look brilliantly professional.

TAKE THEM WITH YOU! Sock are the perfect portable knitting, and you’ll be surprised at just how much progress you’ll make in odd minutes here and there. If you use double-pointed needles, invest in a tubular knitting holder or needle caps like StitchKeepers (above) to protect the ends on the go – or you can even make your own from two pencil toppers and a couple of pieces of elastic!

The Knitter 77 Issue 150

MASTERCLASS ARCHIVE Discover the wide range of knitting techniques explored by The Knitter over the past eleven years in this reference guide to our Masterclass topics TECHNIQUE

AUTHOR

117

Shawl design (in supplement)

Anniken Allis

Helen Spedding

116

Steeking

Mary Henderson

2x2 tubular cast-on in the round

Jen Arnall-Culliford

115

Changing width of finished knits

Faye Perriam-Reed

146

Glove techniques (in supplement)

Rosee Woodland

114

Changing length of finished knits

Faye Perriam-Reed

145

Decorative sock cuffs

Rhian Drinkwater

113

Sewing in zips

Faye Perriam-Reed

144

Two-colour alternating long-tail cast-on

Jen Arnall-Culliford

112

Advanced brioche stitch

Jen Arnall-Culliford

143

Creative rib stitches

Helen Spedding

111

Combination knitting

Jen Arnall-Culliford

142

Knitting with wire

Bronagh Miskelly

110

Changing sleeve width on set-in sleeves

Jen Arnall-Culliford

141

Cast-on methods for top-down socks

Rhian Drinkwater

109

Sideways knit hats

Woolly Wormhead

140

Introduction to double knitting

Ella Austin

108

Blocking part 2 (lace shawls)

Jen Arnall-Culliford

139

Two-sided textures

Bronagh Miskelly

107

Double knitting

Jen Arnall-Culliford

138

Heel methods for top-down socks

Rhian Drinkwater

106

Blocking part 1

Jen Arnall-Culliford

137

Thorn Stitch

Ella Austin

105

Two-colour brioche part 2 (cast-off)

Jen Arnall-Culliford

136

Hand exercises for knitters

Helen Spedding

104

Jen Arnall-Culliford

135

Stretchy cast-off methods

Faye Perriam-Reed

Two-colour brioche part 1 (cast-on and basic stitches)

134

Corrugated ribbing

Faye Perriam-Reed

103

Hat shape, structure and design

Woolly Wormhead

133

Adding thumbholes to cuffs

Faye Perriam-Reed

102

Calculating yarn quantities

Jen Arnall-Culliford

132

Self-striping socks

Faye Perriam-Reed

101

Left-leaning and centred decreases

Jen Arnall-Culliford

131

Advanced Kitchener stitch part 2 (reverse stocking stitch and garter stitch)

Louise Smith

100

Continental knitting

Jen Arnall-Culliford

Seaming

Jen Arnall-Culliford

130

Felting

Faye Perriam-Reed

Adjusting armhole depth

Jen Arnall-Culliford

129

Advanced Kitchener stitch part 1 (ribbing)

Louise Smith

Hat crown shaping

Woolly Wormhead

128

Provisional cast-ons

Faye Perriam-Reed

Pleats and tucks

Jen Arnall-Culliford

127

Picot cast-on and cast-off

Faye Perriam-Reed

Garment care

Jen Arnall-Culliford

126

Judyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Magic Cast On refresher

Faye Perriam-Reed

Stranding for Fair Isle

Faye Perriam-Reed

125

Helical/barberpole stripes

Jen Bartlett

German twisted cast-on

Faye Perriam-Reed

124

Tubular cast-off

Faye Perriam-Reed

Thrums

Helen Spedding

123

Tubular cast-ons

Faye Perriam-Reed

Felting

Faye Perriam-Reed

122

Circular cast-ons

Faye Perriam-Reed

Basic crochet for knitters

Faye Perriam-Reed

121

Adding twisted knitted ribbons (in supplement)

Tanja Murray

Shoulder shaping with short rows

Faye Perriam-Reed

Following charts

Faye Perriam-Reed

120

Stitchmastery part 2

Rosee Woodland

Pockets

Faye Perriam-Reed

119

Purl blips/bumps in striped ribbing

Nathan Taylor

Joining in new yarns

Faye Perriam-Reed

118

Stitchmastery part 1

Rosee Woodland

Making your own buttons

Helen Spedding

ISSUE

TECHNIQUE

AUTHOR

149

Knitted-on edgings

Bronagh Miskelly

148

Selvedges

147

ISSUE

The Knitter 78 Issue 150

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Masterclass archive ISSUE

TECHNIQUE

AUTHOR

ISSUE

TECHNIQUE

AUTHOR

Weaving in ends

Faye Perriam

Buttonholes

Rosee Woodland

Crochet nupps

Jen Storey

Spinning on a wheel

Catherine Wright

Sock toes

Clare Devine

Belinda Boaden

Decorative darning

Emma Vining

Yarn weight substitutions part 2 (complex patterns)

Kitchener Stitch refresher

Jen Storey

Recolouring Fair Isle

Emma King

Sunday short rows

Jen Storey

Yarn weight substitutions part 1

Belinda Boaden

Cabling without a cable needle

Jen Storey

Drop spindling

Rosee Woodland

Norwegian purl

Faye Perriam

Lace troubleshooting part 2

Judy Furlong

Continental knitting

Faye Perriam

Lace troubleshooting part 1

Judy Furlong

Changing colour with Photoshop

Faye Perriam

Essential crochet techniques

Jane Crowfoot

Cast-offs

Jen Arnall-Culliford

Judy Becker

Cast-ons

Jen Arnall-Culliford

Judy’s Magic Cast On (casting on for toe-up socks)

Using Excel to change tension

Ellen Gill

Adding waist shaping

Belinda Boaden

Afterthought and short-row sock heels

Clare Devine

Knitted-on edgings

Judy Furlong

Adapting heel flaps

Clare Devine

Slip-stitch colour effects

Emma King

Ravelry guide part 2

Jen Arnall-Culliford

Advanced Kitchener stitch

Woolly Wormhead

Ravelry guide part 1

Jen Arnall-Culliford

Essential embroidery techniques

Emma King

Latvian braid cast-on

Jen Storey

Cable charts and fixing mistakes

Belinda Boaden

Intarsia stripes and cables

Faye Perriam

Fair Isle techniques

Jane Crowfoot

Smocking stitch

Rosee Woodland

Embellishing with i-cord

Jane Crowfoot

Fair Isle techniques

Rosee Woodland

Basic designing

Jane Crowfoot

Hat Design Workshop (in supplement)

Faye Perriam

Steeking

Jane Crowfoot

Short-row shaping

Rosee Woodland

Lining knitted fabric

Jane Crowfoot

Knitting for children (in supplement)

Barb Brown

Choosing appropriate yarn

Jane Crowfoot

Sock Design Workshop (in supplement)

Rhian Drinkwater

Lace techniques

Jane Crowfoot

Lace blocking

Rosee Woodland

Basic Kitchener stitch

Jane Crowfoot

Intarsia

Judy Furlong

Adding embroidery to knitting

Jane Crowfoot

Beading

Rosee Woodland

Tubular cast-on and cast-off

Jane Crowfoot

Shawl Design Workshop (in supplement)

Rosee Woodland

Jogless stripes

Jane Crowfoot

Small diameter knitting in the round

Jane Crowfoot

Preventing and tackling RSI

Rosee Woodland

Reversible double knitting

Jane Crowfoot

Modular knitting

Rosee Woodland

Cabling without a cable needle

Jane Crowfoot

Taking project photos

Mimi Hill

Provisional cast-ons

Jane Crowfoot

Darning and repairs

Rosee Woodland

Intarsia

Jane Crowfoot

Converting patterns for seamless knitting

Judy Furlong

Adjusting patterns to fit part 2

Jane Crowfoot

Vikkel braids

AnneLena Mattison

Adjusting patterns to fit part 1

Jane Crowfoot

Adding bust darts

Judy Furlong

Denim yarn effects

Jane Crowfoot

Designing a Fair Isle hat

Jane Crowfoot

Blocking lace

Jane Crowfoot

Knitting in the round part 2 (Magic Loop)

Rosee Woodland

Short row shaping

Jane Crowfoot

Knitting in the round part 1

Rosee Woodland

Knitting with beads

Jane Crowfoot

Combination knitting

Annie Modesitt

Fair Isle shortcuts

Jane Crowfoot

Finishing techniques part 2

Judy Furlong

Turkish cast-on

Jane Crowfoot

Finishing techniques part 1

Judy Furlong

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The Knitter 79 Issue 150

BERGERE DE FRANCE

Virginie Cast on a chic jumper for spring, combining classic Fair Isle motifs with a contemporary shape The Knitter

Issue 150

SIZE S TO FIT BUST

BERGERE DE FRANCE

Virginie INSPIRED BY Nordic knitwear styles, but with a dash of French chic, this stranded colourwork sweater from Bergère de France is knitted in five soft shades. It has a cropped, wide,necked, drop-shoulder shape, and geometric Fair Isle patterns. The Calinou 4plyweight yarn has a fine, lightweight feel, and is machine-washable; it comes in a wide range of colours, too.

BACK Using 2.5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 158 (170:182:198:214) sts. Rib row 1 (RS): (K2, P2) to last 2 sts, K2. Rib row 2: (P2, K2) to last 2 sts, P2. Last 2 rows set rib. Work in rib until Back meas 11cm from cast-on edge, dec 1 (-:-:-: 1) st at each end of last row. 156 (170:182:198: 212) sts. Change to 3mm needles.

BEGIN CHART Beg on stitch 5 (22:16:8:1) and ending on stitch 16 (23:5:13:20), work Chart A (B:A:A:A) until Back meas 26 (27:27:28:29) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. **

SLEEVE SEAM

1XL

91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

108

116

127

136

42¾

45¾

49¾

53½

19¼

20¾

21½

22½

21¾

Slip a stitch marker in first and last st to locate beg of armholes, and cont in patt until Back meas 46 (48:50:52:54) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE SHOULDERS AND NECK Next row (RS): Cast off 12 (13:14:16:18) sts for right back shoulder, pattern until there are 43 (47:50:55:59) sts on your needles, cast off next 46 (50:54:56:58) sts for centre back neck, pattern to end.

1 pair 2.5mm (UK 13-12/ US 1-2) knitting needles 1 pair 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) knitting needles Stitch markers

TENSION 31 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over patt on 3mm needles

sts for right shoulder and neck only. Work 1 row straight.

43 (47:50:55:59) sts rem for right shoulder and 55 (60:64:71:77) sts rem for left shoulder.

****Cast off 3 sts at beg of next row at neck edge, 2 sts at beg of foll alt row, and 1 st at beg of 5 foll alt rows. 50 (55:59:66:72) sts.

SHAPE LEFT SHOULDER AND NECK Turn and continue on last 55 (60:64:71:77) sts for left shoulder and neck only. Next row (WS): Cast off 12 (13:14:16:18) sts, pattern until you have 43 (47:50:55:59) sts on your right needle. Turn.

Work straight until Front meas same as Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending at shoulder edge.

***Cast off 3 sts at beg of next row at neck edge. 40 (44:47:52:56) sts. Cast off 12 (14:15:16:18) sts at beg of next row at shoulder edge. 28 (30:32:36:38) sts. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next row at neck edge. 26 (28:30:34:36) sts. Cast off 13 (14:15:17:18) sts at shoulder edge of next row and foll alt row.

SHAPE RIGHT SHOULDER Cast off 12 (13:14:16:18) sts at shoulder edge of next row and 1 (0:0:1:3) foll alt rows and 13 (14:15:17:-) sts at shoulder edge of 2 (3:3:2:0) foll alt rows.

SHAPE LEFT NECK

SHAPE RIGHT SHOULDER AND NECK

Rejoin yarn to neck edge of left shoulder with WS facing. Work as for right neck and shoulder from **** to end.

Rejoin yarn to neck edge of right shoulder with WS facing. Work as for left shoulder and neck from *** to end.

Using 2.5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 74 (74:78:82:86) sts.

FRONT Work as for Back to **. 156 (170:182:198: 212) sts.

MARK ARMHOLES MARK ARMHOLES

2XL

81-86

ACTUAL BUST ACTUAL LENGTH

NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

SLEEVES Work in Rib as for Back until Sleeve meas 11cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row and inc - (1:1:-:-) st at each end of last row. 74 (76:80:82:86) sts.

Place markers as for Back, then cont in patt until Front meas 40 (42:44:46:48) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Change to 3mm needles.

SHAPE NECK

Beg on stitch 10 (9:7:6:4) and ending on stitch 11 (12:14:15:17) of Chart B, work 2 rows straight, ending after a WS row.

Next row (RS): Pattern 60 (65:69:76:82), cast off next 36 (40:44:46:48) sts for centre front neck, pattern to end. 60 (65:69:76:82) sts rem for each shoulder.

SHAPE RIGHT NECK Turn and continue on last 60 (65:69:76:82)

The Knitter 82 Issue 150

SHAPE SLEEVES Keeping pattern correct, inc 1 st at each end of next row. 2 sts inc’d. Work 5 (5:3:3:3) rows straight. Repeat last 6 (6:4:4:4) rows another

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Virginie YARN

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

A LAIT (10028)

x50g BALLS

B CHANVRE (10027)

x50g BALLS

C LIMONADE (10030)

x50g BALLS

D COBALT (10031)

x50g BALLS

E OURSON (10046)

x50g BALLS

YARN STOCKISTS Bergere de France www.bergeredefrance.co.uk

49½ (54:58:63½:68) cm 55c m

CHARTS Chart A

Chart B

6 (2:21:15:12) times. 88 (82:124:114:112) sts. Sizes S and M only Repeat increase row. 2 sts inc’d. Work 3 rows straight. Repeat last 4 rows another 18 (24:-:-:-) times. Sizes L,1XL and 2XL only Repeat increase row. 2 sts inc’d. Work 1 row straight. Repeat increase row. 2 sts inc’d. Work 3 rows straight. Repeat last 6 rows another - (-:4:8:10) times.

42 40 38 36 34 32 30 28 26

All sizes 126 (132:144:150:156) sts.

24 22 20

Cont until Sleeve meas 55cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. Leave the sts on hold.

COLLAR Using 2.5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 122 (126:130:134:138) sts. Work in Rib as for Back for 3cm, then leave the sts on hold.

18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4

KEY

Yarn C

Yarn A

Yarn D

Yarn B

Yarn E

For general abbreviations, see p89

The Knitter 83 Issue 150

1 20

FINISHING Block pieces gently, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Join shoulder seams. Stitch collar to edge of neck, then join the short ends. Graft top of sleeves to each end of shoulder seam in between stitch markers. Sew sleeve seams and sides of sweater.

49 (51:53:55:57) cm

Bergère de France Calinou (4ply weight; 75% acrylic, 25% wool; 185m/202yds per 50g ball)

41 39 37 35 33 31 29 27 25 23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5

1 20

This pattern is taken from Bergère’s seasonal design magazine, Créations 2019/20, which has projects for men, women and children. Order a copy for £7 at www.bergeredefrance.co.uk.

Your essential buying guide to the best suppliers of yarn & knitting accessories To advertise in The Knitter Boutique please contact Kerri McKenna on 0117 300 8550 ONLINE

ONLINE

Wild Atlantic Yarns

Watercolours & Lace

www.wildatlanticyarns.com info@wildatlanticyarns.com Hand dyed in Donegal, Ireland. Beautiful natural yarns and spinning fibres inspired by the rugged landscape and heritage of north west Ireland. Original patterns and kits available. Flat rate worldwide shipping.

www.watercoloursandlace.co.uk julie@watercoloursandlace.co.uk 01379 674 427 With exclusive designs, over 40 yarn bases and 400 hand-painted colourways in luxury, natural fibres and cobweb lace to 4-ply weights – we’ll help you create the garment of your dreams.

ONLINE

Frangipani 5-ply Guernsey Wool www.guernseywool.co.uk jan@guernseywool.co.uk 01326 240 367 5-ply Guernsey Wool 28 glorious colours to knit your own gansey.

ONLINE

Qing Fibre www.qingfibre.com contact@qingfibre.com Qing Fibre specialises in unusual colour combinations and sophisticated speckles. Check out the website for Spring tones, fresh skeins and summer club subscriptions!

ONLINE

Truly Hooked

Purl Alpaca Designs

www.trulyhooked.com info@trulyhooked.com Home of beautiful luxury hand dyed yarns and self-published, award winning pattern books. Visit our website to restock your stash and see if we’ll be at a yarn show near you!

www.purlalpacadesigns.com info@purlalpacadesigns.com Ethically produced 100% pure British alpaca yarn, original stylish knitting patterns, sewing up service, knitting kits. On farm workshops courses and tuition near Cambridge.

SOUTH EAST

The Yarn Dispensary www.theyarndispensary.co.uk A friendly local yarn store in the heart of a medieval market town, where you can be sure of a warm welcome. We focus on natural fibres, British yarns, and local makers. 6 Market Place, Faversham, Kent, ME13 7AG

To advertise on these pages, please contact KERRI MCKENNA on 0117 300 8550

SOUTH

Home Farm Wensleydales

Handmade Studios

www.homefarmwensleydales.com

www.handmadestudios.org 02392 412 901 A delightful yarn shop in South East Hampshire with over 650 indie dye yarns and quality commercial yarns. Tues to Sat 10am-4pm. Thursday 4-8pm with Knit & Natter 6-8pm. Teashop next door. 4 The Green, Rowlands Castle, Hants, PO9 6BN

homefarmwensleydales@gmail.com

07762 787 836 Home grown 100% rare breed wool from our flock of Wensleydale and Bluefaced Leicester sheep. Washed and spun traditionally in Yorkshire, all we add is grass, water, and a bit of TLC. Follow the story on Facebook. 10% discount with code knit20.

SOUTH CENTRAL

Oxford Yarn Store

SOUTH WEST

Oxford Yarn Store

Frome Yarn Collective

www.oxfordyarnstore.co.uk info@oxfordyarnstore.co.uk 01865 604 112 Exquisite yarns and notions for all tastes. Rowan, Isager, The Fibre Co., Baa Ram Ewe, West Yorkshire Spinners, Malabrigo, Manos del Uruguay, Jamieson’s, Adriafil. 3 North Parade Ave, Oxford, OX2 6LX

www.fromeyarncollective.co.uk Stockists of small independent producers and hand-dyers such as Cambrian Wool, Skein Queen, Cat & Sparrow, as well as larger producers like Isager, Rowan, West Yorkshire Spinners and Sirdar. 11 Catherine Hill, Frome, Somerset, BA11 1BZ

NORTH EAST

Brambles & Me www.bramblesandme.co.uk instagram.com/bramblesandme Brambles & Me is a natural dye business located within the heart of Newcastle upon Tyne in the North East of England. Beautifully hand-dyed yarns using only naturally derived extracts from roots, bark, leaves and insects to create unique colours influenced by the great outdoors.

NORTH EAST/ONLINE

Fine Fettle Fibres www.finefettlefibres.uk judith@finefettlefibres.uk 01670 600 001 Specialising in British and fair trade yarns in natural fibres, Fine Fettle Fibres also offers workshops, knitting groups and special events for knitters. Studio 6, Gallery 45, 45 Main Street, Felton, Northumberland, NE65 9PP

YORKSHIRE

Wensleydale Longwool Sheep Shop www.wensleydalelongwool.co.uk sales@wensleydalelongwool.co.uk 01969 623 558 Pure Wensleydale Wool – Worsted spun, dyed and finished in Yorkshire. Aran, DK and 4ply available in “colours of the dales”. Tops, fleece, patterns, garments and notions available in store and online. Based in Leyburn.

NORTH/NORTH WEST

Sew-In Marple · Buxton · Online www.myknittingyarnandwool.co.uk enquiries@myknittingyarnandwool.co.uk 0161 427 2529 · 01298 26636 Two high street gems stocking all that’s best in handknitting! Sublime, WYS, Rowan, Sirdar, Rico and more. Extensive selection of needlecraft and haberdashery. SK6 7AD · SK17 6BJ

Missed an issue? Catch up on what you’ve missed by downloading a back issue of The Knitter today

Issue 149

Lace jumper v Cable & lace top v Lacy tunic v Cabled cardigan v Men’s colourwork sweater v Brioche cowl v Cabled cushion v Beaded cardigan v Child’s sheep cardigan v Two-colour brioche hat v Floral shawl

SEE THE PATTERNS IN DETAIL HERE http://bit.ly/RAVTKN

Issue 148

Issue 147

Issue 146

Lacy gansey v Cabled jumper v Intarsia jumper v Cabled tunic v Lace jumper v Men’s gansey v Lace top v Shawl v Batwing jumper v Intarsia cushion v Child’s Fair Isle tank v Colourwork hat

Two-colour cabled jumper v Fair Isle tank top v Zigzag jumper v Textured cardigan v Sideways cable sweater v Fair Isle mittens v Bag v Yoked cardigan v Intarsia jumper v Lace rib sweater

Cabled top v Fair Isle & lace cardigan v Crossover jacket v Child’s sweater v Lace shawl v Fair Isle hat v Hooded cable cardigan v Colourwork jumper v Socks v Men’s cardigan v Fair Isle gloves

T U R N F OR MOR E B AC K I S S U E S

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R E T U R N T O T H E A PP T O B U Y I S S U E S 1 1 ON WA R D S

ISSUE 151 ON SALE

28 MAY

Fresh ideas using colour & texture by Jennie Atkinson, Dario Tubiana, Mary Henderson, Anniken Allis, Martin Storey â&#x20AC;¦and more

Explore the colourful possibilities offered by double knitting, & meet the team at Tangled Yarn

Plus

FIONA ALICE

CONTENT SUBJECT TO CHANGE

8-PAGE PULLOUT

I N F O R M AT I O N

Abbreviations alt approx beg ch cn cont dc dec DK DPN dtr est foll inc K KFB K2tog kwise meas M1 M1pw

M1L

M1R

alternate approximately beginning chain cable needle continue double crochet (US single crochet) decrease (work two stitches together) double knitting double-pointed needle double treble (US treble crochet) established following increase knit knit into front and back of stitch knit the next two stitches together knitwise measures make one (see M1L) make 1 st purlwise: with LH needle lift the strand between next and last st from front to back and purl through the back loop left leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back. Knit lifted loop through back of loop right leaning increase: with left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit lifted loop through front of loop

Contacts MB mrk P patt PB PFB pm prev psso

P2tog P3tog pwise rem rep(s) rev st st RH RS skpo sk2po s2kpo Sl sl st ss slm SSK

SSP

st(s) st st tbl tog tr w&t WS wyib wyif yb yf yfwd yo yrn

make a bobble marker purl pattern(s) place bead purl into front and back of stitch place marker previous pass slipped stitch over purl 2 stitches together purl 3 stitches together purlwise remain(ing) repeat(s) reverse stocking stitch right hand right side slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over slip 1, knit 2 tog, pass slipped stitch over slip 2 tog kwise, knit 1, pass slipped sts over slip slip stitch slip stitch (crochet) slip marker slip 2 stitches one at a time, return to LH needle, knit 2 slipped stitches together tbl slip 2 stitches one at a time, return to LH needle, purl 2 slipped stitches together tbl stitch(es) stocking stitch through back of loop together treble crochet (US double crochet) wrap and turn wrong side with yarn in back with yarn in front take yarn back (no inc) bring yarn to front (no inc) yarn forward yarn over yarn round needle

An archive of our Masterclasses is available online: www.gathered.how/knitting-and-crochet/knitting/ how-to-knit/

YARN SUPPLIERS

Bergère de France www.bergeredefrance.co.uk Debbie Bliss c/o LoveCrafts 01409 404 010 www.lovecrafts.com Eden Cottage Yarns www.edencottageyarns.co.uk Erika Knight c/o Thomas B. Ramsden 01943 230010 www.thehomeofcraft.co.uk Jamieson & Smith 01595 693579 www.shetlandwoolbrokers. co.uk Novita www.novitaknits.com

Rowan 01484 668200 www.knitrowan.com Stolen Stitches www.stolenstitches.com Find stockist details at www.fyberspates.com/retailers West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com BOOK PUBLISHERS

The Crowood Press 01672 520320 www.crowood.com Kate Davies Designs www.shopkdd.com

‘Mortimer’ on page 26 uses yarn from West Yorkshire Spinners

Pattern updates Our archive of updates can be found at: www.gathered.how/theknitter

The Knitter 89 Issue 150

Interview LOC A L H E ROE S

The Orry Mill Filled with beautiful, colourful yarns, this shop is a hub for knitters south of Glasgow

How did you come to run a yarn store? “My mum taught me to knit when I was four. I also attended a Steiner School, near where I grew up in Odense, Denmark, and where we were encouraged to develop our art and crafting skills. I came to Scotland to study fine art at Glasgow School of Art, where I developed both creatively and technically. I was made redundant in 2017 after nine years in an office job, so when a shop came up for let in my village, my husband encouraged me to make use of my 40 years of art and craft experience and open a yarn shop.” What brands do you stock? “I currently stock Rowan, Regia, West Yorkshire, Bobbiny, KnitPro, Pony, and a small selection of Erika Knight, Patons and James C Brett. West Yorkshire Spinners’ The Croft is probably the most popular for aran knits, and its Bo Peep range is popular for baby knits. Rowan’s Felted Tweed is an all-year-round favourite for garments as well as blankets, while our customers like Regia’s Premium Silk Sock Yarn is for baby and shawl knits.” Tell us about the team working with you. “Margaret Grubb is my creative sidekick; she is always up for a challenge, and is constantly exploring new materials to work with, for example knitting with chain and metal wires to make jewellery. Margaret’s imaginative crochet animal stools often take centre stage in our window displays, and she has been excellent in running our beginner and intermediate classes. “Liz Agnew is my expert knitter who test knits for several designers and yarn

brands. She helps me run my advanced and expert workshops. Rosy Little from Knitting on Cloud Nine is running popular children’s classes from the shop to get the younger generation knitting.” What would you say are the highlights and challenges of running a yarn shop? “The highlights are definitely seeing customers’ reactions when they have achieved things they never thought possible. The classes and community aspect of the shop is something that has developed, and we have big plans to make The Orry Mill a great place to come and learn and relax. “The challenges are learning how to build marketing campaigns and build our identity - we didn’t start with the intention of running so many classes, for example. Now the classes are the thing that defines us. Social media and our website is also a challenge as you need to work with so many specialist skills to do it really well. It can look effortless, but it definitely isn’t. Our next challenge is to create videos to show a wider audience hints and tips.” What is the knitting community like in your area? “We are really lucky to have a very vibrant knitting community with people of all ages and abilities. Most of our students have started as beginners, but have very quickly improved and managing to tackle advanced and expert patterns after just a few months. I do tend to throw people in at the deep end and let them know that I am their safety net should they need it.” Are you a knitter yourself? “I am a knitter and a crocheter, and I love both. I generally prefer knitted garments and crochet toys and household items, but there are always exceptions, such as Marie Wallin’s exquisite crocheted lace garments, and Susan B Anderson’s adorable knitted toys.” www.theorrymill.co.uk 01355 301 244

3 1 +2 Thilde’s shop is a colourful, modern, calm space, filled with gorgeous yarns 3 Customers particularly love her selection of West Yorkshire Spinners and Rowan yarns 4 Workshops have been a big hit with local knitters 5 The Orry Mill is in Eaglesham, to the south of Glasgow

4 5

ILLUSTRATION: DIRTYDOG CREATIVE / GETTY IMAGES

THILDE OLSEN runs The Orry Mill, a yarn shop in Eaglesham near Glasgow. We chatted with Thilde before the Covid-19 outbreak, and although her bricks-and-mortar shop is currently closed, her online store is still open for yarn orders!

makers noun (may-kers)

You’re the teachers of tradition, the sharers of joy, the kind hearts of craft when the world needs it most. You are the knitters, the makers, the dreamers. Together, we make.

#TogetherWeMake

lovecrafts.com - your home to shop materials, ﬁnd free patterns & feel the joy of making.

Explore 1,000’s of FREE patterns to download today!

KAFFE FASSETT

Portia & Ellen This modern twinset comprises a fitted vest and a long cardigan with a bright colourwork pattern

SIZE TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST

ACTUAL LENGTH

KAFFE FASSETT

Portia FOR HIS contemporary twist on the classic twinset concept, Kaffe Fassett has designed this bright cardigan and a matching vest which you can find on the following pages. The long cardigan has a swingy silhouette and pockets. Both projects are knitted in myriad shades of Rowan’s Cotton Glacé, a smooth mercerised cotton which offers a slight sheen and incredible stitch definition.

BACK Using 2.75mm needles and yarn A, cast on 125 (137:147:159:169) sts. Work in garter stitch for 3 rows, ending with WS facing for next row. Row 4 (WS): K6 (4:10:9:7), M1, [K8 (8:7:7:7), M1] 14 (16:18:20:22) times, K7 (5:11:10:8). 140 (154:166:180:192) sts. Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg on stitch 9 (2:8:1:7) and ending on stitch 4 (11:5:12:6), using the Fair Isle technique by stranding unused colours loosely across back of work, repeating the 12-st patt repeat 11 (11:13:15:15) times across each row and repeating the 72-row patt repeat throughout, cont in patt from chart for body, which is worked entirely in st st beg with a K row, as folls: Work 18 rows, ending with RS facing for next row. Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at each end of next and 8 foll 18th rows. 122 (136:148:162:174) sts.

SLEEVE SEAM

8-10

12-14

16-18

20-22

24-26

81-86

91-97

102-107

112-117

122-127

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

104½

114

124½

134

41¼

52¾

35¾

36½

37½

38¼

17¾

Cont straight until Back meas 67 (67½:68:68½:69) cm, ending with RS facing for next row.

Row 4 (WS): K6 (5:3:7:6), M1, [K8 (8:8:7:7), M1] 7 (8:9:10:11) times, K6 (5:4:8:7). 76 (83:89:96:102) sts.

SHAPE ARMHOLES Keeping patt correct, cast off 5 (6:7:8: 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 112 (124:134:146:156) sts.

Cont straight until armholes meas 21 (22½:24:25½:27) cm, ending with RS facing for next row.

Change to 3.25mm needles. Beg on stitch 9 (2:8:1:7) and ending on stitch 12, and repeating the 12-st patt repeat 6 (6:7:8:8) times across each row, cont in patt from chart for body as folls: Work 18 rows, ending with RS facing for next row. Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at beg of next and 4 foll 18th rows. 71 (78:84:91:97) sts. Work 11 rows, ending after chart row 30 and with RS facing for next row.

SHAPE SHOULDERS AND BACK NECK

WORK POCKET

Next row (RS): Cast off 11 (13:14:16:18) sts, patt until there are 15 (16:18:20:21) sts on right needle and turn, leaving rem sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next row. Cast off rem 12 (13:15:17:18) sts.

Do NOT break yarns. Slip first (shaped side seam edge) 13 (15:17:19:21) sts onto one holder, and last (front opening edge) 24 (29:33: 38:42) sts onto another holder, leaving 34 sts on needle.

Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 (7:9:9:11) rows, then on foll 4 (7:6:8:7) alt rows, then on foll 4th row. 88 (94:102:110:118) sts.

With RS facing, slip centre 36 (36:38:38:40) sts onto a holder (for front band), rejoin yarns and patt to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.

LEFT FRONT Using 2.75mm needles and yarn A, cast on 68 (74:79:85:90) sts. Work in garter stitch for 3 rows, ending with WS facing for next row.

The Knitter

Issue 150

**Using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, rejoin yarn to these 34 sts with RS facing and cont as folls: Next row (RS): K4, (K2tog, K6) 3 times, K2tog, K4. 30 sts. Next row: Knit (to form fold line). Beg with a K row, work in st st for 54 rows, ending with RS facing for next row. Next row (RS): Purl (to form fold line for base of pocket bag). Beg with a P row, work in st st for 52 rows, ending with WS facing for next row.

SIZE TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST

ACTUAL LENGTH

8-10

12-14

16-18

20-22

24-26

81-86

91-97

102-107

112-117

122-127

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

101

110

121

130

35½

39¾

43¼

47½

51¼

21¼

22¾

23½

24½

YARN Rowan Cotton Glacé (DK weight; 100% cotton; 115m/125yds per 50g ball) KAFFE FASSETT

Ellen

A DAWN GREY (831)

14 (15:17:19:20) times across each row and repeating the 63-row patt repeat throughout (see chart note above), cont in patt from chart, which is worked entirely in st st beg with a K row, as folls: Work 4 rows, ending with RS facing for next row.

CHART NOTE

Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at each end of next and 3 foll 6th rows. 111 (125:137:151:163) sts.

BACK Using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, cast on 118 (134:146:158:170) sts. Row 1 (RS): K2, *P2, K2; rep from * to end. Row 2: P2, *K2, P2; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form rib. Work in rib for a further 6 rows, inc (dec:dec:inc:inc) 1 st at end of last row. 119 (133:145:159:171) sts. Beg on stitch 1 (2:4:1:3) and ending on stitch 7 (6:4:7:5), using the Fair Isle technique by stranding unused colours loosely across back of work, repeating the 8-st patt repeat

x50g BALLS

Plus 1 x 50g ball of each: B Persimmon (832); C Cobalt (850); D Shell (845); E Shoot (814); F Mineral (856); G Heather (828); H Aqua (858); I Oyster (730)

LIKE THE ‘Portia’ cardigan, the ‘Ellen’ vest features geometric colourwork - wear them together for a show-stopping outfit! Kaffe has given his vest design some gentle waist shaping for a neat fit and extra finesse. Find the charts for ‘Ellen’ on page 8 of this supplement.

The chart is a repeat of an ODD number of rows. On the first and every following alternate repeat of the chart, odd-numbered rows are RS (K) rows, and on the second and every following alternate repeat of the chart, odd-numbered rows are WS (P) rows.

Work 17 rows, ending with RS facing for next row.

RS facing for next row.

SHAPE SHOULDERS AND BACK NECK Next row (RS): Cast off 6 (7:7:9:10) sts, patt until there are 14 (16:18:20:22) sts on right needle and turn, leaving rem sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 rows, ending with RS facing for next row, and AT THE SAME TIME cast off 6 (7:7:9:10) sts at beg of 2nd row. Cast off rem 5 (6:8:8:9) sts.

Inc 1 st at each end of next and 2 foll 12th rows, taking inc sts into patt. 117 (131:143:157:169) sts.

With RS facing, slip centre 35 (35:39: 39:41) sts onto a holder (for neckband), rejoin yarns and patt to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.

Cont straight until Back meas 31½ (32:32½:33:33½) cm, ending with RS facing for next row.

FRONT

SHAPE ARMHOLES Keeping patt correct, cast off 7 (8:9:10:11) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 103 (115:125:137:147) sts.

Work as given for Back until 30 (30:32: 32:34) rows less have been worked than on Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending with RS facing for next row.

SHAPE FRONT NECK Dec 1 st at each end of next 7 (9:11:13:15) rows, then on foll 6 (7:6:6:5) alt rows, then on foll 4th row. 75 (81:89:97:105) sts. Cont straight until armholes meas 21 (22½:24:25½:27) cm, ending with

The Knitter 07 Issue 150

Next row (RS): Patt 29 (32:35:39:43) sts and turn, leaving rem sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 6 rows, then on foll 3 (3:4:4:5) alt rows, then on 3 foll 4th rows.

Ellen NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES

BLOCKING DIAGRAM

CHART 63 62

1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles Stitch holders

54 (56:58:60:62) cm

26 sts and 29 rows to 10cm over patterned st st on 3.25mm needles

For general abbreviations, see p89 of the main magazine

58 56

Rowan 01484 668200 www.knitrowan.com

TENSION

YARN STOCKISTS

KEY

57 55

45 (50½:55:60½:65) cm

50 48

31 29

Cast off 6 (7:7:9:10) sts at beg of next and foll alt row. Work 1 row. Cast off rem 5 (6:8:8:9) sts. With RS facing, slip centre 17 (17:19: 19:19) sts onto a holder (for neckband), rejoin yarns and patt to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.

MAKING UP Block pieces gently, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Join right shoulder seam using back stitch, or mattress stitch if preferred.

ARMHOLE BORDERS (both alike) With RS facing, using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, pick up and knit 114 (122:130:138:146) sts evenly all round armhole edge.

17 15 13

Beg with row 2, work in rib as given for Back for 6 rows, ending with WS facing for next row. Cast off in rib (on WS).

1 5

FINISHING Sew side seams. Weave in ends.

THE VEST AND CARDIGAN HAVE

NECKBAND With RS facing, using 3.25mm needles and yarn A, pick up and knit 30 (30:32: 32:34) sts down left side of front neck, knit across 17 (17:19:19:19) sts on front holder, pick up and knit 30 (30:32:32: 34) sts up right side of front neck, and 3 sts down right side of back neck, knit across 35 (35:39:39:41) sts on back holder dec 0 (0:2:2:0) sts evenly, then pick up and knit 3 sts up left side of back neck. 118 (118:126:126:134) sts.

18 16

Yarn I

Join left shoulder and neckband seam.

Yarn H

SHAPE SHOULDER

Yarn G

Work 5 rows, ending with RS facing for next row.

Beg with row 2, work in rib as given for Back for 6 rows, ending with WS facing for next row. Cast off in rib (on WS).

Yarn F

40 38

17 (20:22:26:29) sts.

Yarn D

Yarn C

Yarn E

Yarn B

Yarn A

These patterns are taken from Rowan’s seasonal design collection, Knitting & Crochet Magazine 67, which has 35 women’s projects. For stockist details, call 01484 668200 or visit www.knitrowan.com.

The Knitter 08 Issue 150

COMPLEMENTARY COLOURWORK PATTERNS

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MASTERCLASS

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INFORMATION