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London Runway Issue 65 - The Red Issue

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CHARIS MICHELSEN INTERVIEW . AGE + YOUTH IN FASHION . QUIRKY NEW TRENDS . FASHION STARTUPS 2021

Charis Michelsen x

CHABS . OUR LRVF JEWELLERY SHOOT . STUNNING RED EDITORIALS . HOW TO WEAR RED THIS SEASON

ISSUE 65 27TH AUGUST 2021

THE RED ISSUE

RRP £9.99


LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar Advertising enquiries - Eve Payton - ads@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Kirsty Spence, Robert Keene, Adetola Olagaju, Pariz Santos, Pele Sengphom, Flavio De Brito, Daniel Weber, Charis Michelsen, Sylvele Marshall, Lena Berkas, Nataliya Bugaychuk, Polina Levitskaya, Michaela Rogova, Ksenija Anisimova, Marina Apanasovic, May Mammaz, Mark Johnson, Olivia Coker, Adriane Leigh Robinson, Keren Falade, Phoebe Bluestone, Lucia Hudackova, Valentina Esposito, Eli Pereira, Elizabeth Shokan, Sarahlily Feldman, Ozoda Muminova, Serge Bazilic, Alex Verbitsky, Elena Dzhangiryan, Ruth Croft, Thomas Wood, Eszter Égető Albatrosz, Égető Erika, Gergely Nagy, Krystian Data, Angelo Far Couture, Jasmine Sumner, Keely Mccarthy, Nandi Pama, Yana Khismatulina, Maria Leonova, Nadya Ryabova, Violetta Ovinova, Victoria Shoynhorova, Ekaterina Pokornaya, Lyubov Belyavtseva, Daria Valiguras, Karina Bondar, Victoria Startseva, Yelizaveta Shaporova, Tatiana Shumilina, Chabs, Siblingz Fashion, Patryk Kowalski, Monika Grzegorczyk, Jadzia Koc, Teresa Mochocka, Kamila Blaszkiewicz, Ella LaBeau, Alison Fern Jewellery, LAGE, Half Baked Cookie Co Special thanks to the Charis Michelsen and team, Susanna from The Purple Collection and Maxine Griffiths Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk © 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2020 ambassadors are Hannah Lewis and Orpheus Sloma

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CONTENTS

9 VISUALS

55 WORDS

Charis Michelsen (Cover Editorial)

9

Countryside (Editorial)

21

New Faces

33

Portfolio Piece

39

Strong Boy Lonely (Editorial)

41

Dinner for One (Editorial)

The Face of London Runway 2020 4 The Winners! Interview: Charis Michelsen

17

How Age Impacts Fashion

31

Infantilisation in Fashion

51

Fashion Startups in 2021 With The Purple Collection

66

55

Style (Conscious) Guide: Paint the Town Red

65

Bye-Bye Tracksuit

79

The Red and Me (Editorial)

69

Quirky Trends that are on the Rise 96 for 2022

The Red Strength (Editorial)

75

Your Style Horoscope

109

Basketball (Editorial)

82

Brianna's Power Reds in Netflix's Grace and Frankie

123

Ocean Wave (Editorial)

89 The Big Question

125

Chabs

98

Fisherwoman Diary (Editorial)

113


s ' r o t i d E r e t t le It’s been an exceptionally busy month since we last spoke here at London Runway HQ – and if you’ve been following us on socials, you’ve probably been able to take part in it! From the 9th to the 15th August we held our second annual London Runway Virtual Festival. And it was an absolute blast! We brought entertainment right to you, with live panel talks, musical performances, interviews, and even a live photoshoot conducted by yours truly. You can still catch up on all of that live content if you didn’t tune in with us during the week. It’s preserved in all its glory on our IGTV, so head to @londonrunwaymag to check it out! We had so much fun producing it this year, and making sure we had literally three times the content as we did in 2020. It was so enjoyable, in fact, that we’re planning to do it all again in 2022!

There’s something so amazing about being able to sit in a living room in rainy Kent and connect with people from literally all over the world, so thank you so much for joining us if you did. We’d still love your feedback and comments, so head over to those videos and share some love. Let us know what you enjoyed the most, what you appreciated, and what fell flat for you – so we can improve next year! We do have a little teaser of the content coming up in this issue, with an abridged version of our conversation with The Purple Collection about what it’s like to launch a fashion startup in 2021. It’s definitely worth a read – and a listen, if you want to check out the whole thing! And if videos aren’t for you, don’t panic. We’ll be sharing the audio versions of the live events through our podcast,

London Runway Style, in the coming weeks and months. The only content that you won’t find anywhere but on IGTV are our opening ceremony, live photoshoot, and the live photo editing that took place the next day – simply because of their visual nature. Oh, and those images resulting from that photoshoot? They’re here in this issue, too, just a little later on. I hope it’s eye-opening for those who aren’t in the industry to see what it’s like to go from shoot to finished image! And as if that wasn’t enough, I’ve got almost all the way through this letter without even MENTIONING the fact that the Face of London Runway 2021 has come to a conclusion! Your votes have been tallied and added to our judges scores, so it’s time to announce the winners. All you need to do for that is turn the page… Enjoy!

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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LONDON RUNWAY

THE FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2021

THE WINNERS!

It’s finally here: the time to announce our amazing winners for the Face of London Runway 2021! It’s been such an exciting journey, starting with more than 250 applicants who came to us from all around the country. We’ve been through Zoom rounds, video challenges, and a special shooting day at T on The Green that allowed us to put all of the contestants through their paces – and you can read all about that in previous issues as well as on our website. Now, though, we’ve come through the final round. Your voting scores on social media were combined with the scores our judges have been accumulating throughout every round, after carefully observing each of the participants and looking at their behaviour, their potential, and their video and image results. When you were called on to vote, vote you did! We’ve had hundreds of likes flooding in on our Instagram page, where each of the contestants’ images were shared for official voting, as well as on Facebook. Afterwards, our head judges – Chief Editor Rhiannon D’Averc and model coach Maxine Griffiths – had a lot to discuss, putting their heads together to provide the final results. And now, we’re pleased to say we can announce our winners and runners-up for 2021! But wait… Before we get there, there’s a little wrinkle that we’d like to address.

In previous years, the voting has taken things right down to the line, and we’ve had you all waiting on tenterhooks to hear how the judges’ scores would tip the balance. This year, things went a little differently. Yes, the scores were tense and nailbiting, with more votes coming in up to the final moment. But, unfortunately, our team were monitoring things very closely – and that’s how they were able to spot discrepancies in the voting process throughout the voting period. These discrepancies, which were not resulting from any actions taken by London Runway or any problems with the social media platforms themselves, constituted an issue that needed to be addressed. As a result, we have decided to disqualify three entrants from the overall competition, meaning they were no longer eligible to take any prizes. Luckily, with another nine contestants left standing, picking our winners got a lot easier! When we added everything up, we came to a very exciting line-up of models who you are going to see in our pages over the coming year.

You’ll be able to catch both our menswear and womenswear victors on their own individual issue covers over the coming months, and we’ll be providing support and training to all six winners and runners-up over the course of the next year. Look out for them on our podcast, London Runway Style, as well as hopefully a catwalk or three during coming seasons…

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WOMENSWEAR WINNER

KIRSTY SPENCE Runners-up Adetola Olagbaju Pariz Santos

MENSWEAR WINNER

ROBERT KEENE Runners-up Pele Sengphom Flavio De Brito

And, one last note: if you’re feeling left out and thinking you might have been able to be a winner yourself, don’t fret! Watch out next spring or early summer for our 2022 Face of London Runway contest. You can ensure you won’t miss out by signing up to our mailing list at londonrunway.co.uk! Winners' images by Mrityunjoy Mitra Special thanks to our sponsors Lemonaid and Charitea


WOMENSWEAR WINNER

Kirsty Spence


MENSWEAR WINNER

Robert Keene


LONDON RUNWAY

RUNNERS-UP

Adetola Olagbaju

Pariz Santos

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LONDON RUNWAY

RUNNERS-UP

Pele Sengphom

Flavio De Brito

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Charis Michelsen Photography - Daniel Weber Makeup and Styling: Charis Michelsen Hair: Sylvie Marshall Of Brighton Salon Of Beverly Hills Artwork: Charis Michelsen (From The Book Hollywood Beauty: The Art Of Star Makeup By Charis Michelsen)


LONDON RUNWAY

Charis wears: TOP: Cashmere & Silk Louis Vuitton x Stephen Sprouse Leopard Stole; NAILS: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; MAKEUP - EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow In Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Tarte Mascara In Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Artistry Lip Color In Red Hot

Charis wears: TOP: LIP BRUSH: Vincent Longo Travel Precision Lip Brush No. 6; LIP GLOSS: Kiehl’s Light Lip Gloss in Black Raspberry; NAIL COLOR: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; MAKEUP: EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow In Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Tarte Mascara In Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Kat Von D Lip Color In Outlaw, Kiehl’s Light Lip Gloss In Black Raspberry

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Charis wears: TOP: Cashmere & Silk Louis Vuitton x Stephen Sprouse Leopard Stole; NAIL COLOR: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; MAKEUP - EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow In Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Tarte Mascara In Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Artistry Lip Color In Red Hot

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Charis wears: TOP: Vintage Ramones 1-2-3-4 T-shirt; TROUSERS: Hudson Jeans In Style W1702TCP, Cut A00565; SUNGLASSES: Alexander MQueen Aviator Sunglasses In Style AMQ 4024 S D2U 65 09 115; LIPSTICK: Marc Jacobs Le Marc Lip Creme In Shakedown NAIL COLOR: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; MAKEUP: EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow In Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Tarte Mascara In Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Marc Jacobs Le Marc Lip Creme In Shakedown, Kiehl’s Light Lip Gloss In Golden Berry


LONDON RUNWAY

Charis wears: TOP: Cosabella Tank Top; JACKET: Mike Gonzalez Jacket With Braided Detailing NAIL COLOR: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; MAKEUP: EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow In Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Chanel Rouge Coco Ultra Hydrating Lip Color In Gabrielle, Kat Von D Tattoo Liner in Trooper Black, Tarte Mascara in Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Chanel Le Crayon Gloss Sheer Lip Colouring Pencil In 54 Clementine, Kiehl’s Light Lip Gloss In Golden Berry

Charis wears: NAIL COLOR: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; MAKEUP: EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow in Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Color In Amethyst, Kat Von D Tattoo Liner in Trooper Black, Tarte Mascara In Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Nars Original Lipstick In Red Lizard

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Charis wears: TOP: Cosabella Tank Top; TROUSERS: Hudson Collin Skinny Jeans; HEELS: Jimmy Choo Love 100 Point-Toe Pumps; SUNGLASSES: Burberry Sunglasses In Style 4044 3001/87 57 18 135 3N; CAP: Herve Leger Crocodile-Bandage Baseball Cap; HANDBAG: Louis Vuitton Epi Pochette; NAIL COLOR: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; MAKEUP: EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow In Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Tarte Mascara In Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Kat Von D Lip Color In Outlaw, Kiehl’s Light Lip Gloss In Golden Berry


LONDON RUNWAY

Charis wears: TOP: Silk Rag & Bone Jumper; SHORTS: Theory Shorts In Style 60204245; NAIL COLOR: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; MAKEUP: EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow In Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Color In Amethyst, Kat Von D Tattoo Liner in Trooper Black, Tarte Mascara In Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Chanel Rouge Coco Ultra Hydrating Lip Color In Gabrielle, Kiehl’s Light Lip Gloss In Golden Berry

Charis wears: TOP: Silk Jil Sander Tank Top; SKIRT: LnA Skirt In Style RN121611; NAIL COLOR: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; MAKEUP: EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow In Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Color In Amethyst, Kat Von D Tattoo Liner in Trooper Black, Tarte Mascara In Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Nars Original Lipstick In Red Lizard

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Charis wears: SWIMWEAR: Dolce & Gabbana Bikini; HEELS: Jimmy Choo Love 100 Point-Toe Pumps; NAIL COLOR: Essie Nail Lacquer Vernis In Forever Yummy; BOOK: Allure By Diana Vreeland; MAKEUP: EYES: Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow In Bone, Taupe, Rich Brown, Tarte Mascara In Lights, Camera, Lashes; EYEBROWS: MAC Eye Shadow In Wedge; CHEEKS: Nars Bronzer In Laguna, Nars Blush In Orgasm; LIPS: Artistry Lip Color In Red Hot, Kiehl’s Light Lip Gloss In Golden Berry


LONDON RUNWAY

INTERVIEW

Charis Michelsen

With Two Gorgeous Beauty Books, an Exciting Fashion and BeautyRelated TV Show, and a New Movie in the Works, Red-Hot Actress and Beauty Expert CHARIS MICHELSEN Is Heating up

How did Charis Michelsen, a girl from a small US town called Boring (in the state of Oregon) make it onto the cover of magazines? To the big screen (she’s acted in over twenty-five films — and more to come)? Become a beauty expert with two books, a TV show, and a feature film in the works? Gain roots in Hollywood royalty (she’s the former daughter-in-law of legendary producer and head of production at Paramount Pictures Robert Evans (The Godfather, Rosemary’s Baby, Chinatown) and actress and fashion icon Ali MacGraw (Love Story, The Getaway)? And in rock and roll — with her former manager being renowned rock groupie Bebe Buell, whose daughter is none other than Liv Tyler? We asked her. By TCMC

CM: Thinking my future was in

fashion, I applied to only one college while in high school, the best in the world for fashion design — Parsons School of Design in New York City. Thank God I got in because I didn’t have a backup plan.

TCMC: Parsons/The New School

named you a “notable alumni” and “legend” in the category of “Acting” amongst other alumnus notables such as Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Anna Sui, Jasper Johns, Roy Lichtenstein, Tennessee Williams, Marlon Brando, and Bradley Cooper. Even model Bella Hadid and Nikki Hilton Rothschild attended Parsons.

TCMC: How did you start modeling? CM:

Within two weeks of landing in New York, I was scouted by a photographer for Harper’s BAZAAR Magazine while standing on the corner of Fifth Avenue and Fourteenth Street. He asked me what agency I was with, and I had no idea what he was talking about, and then he asked me if I wanted to “test” and I still had no idea what he was talking about, so he explained that testing was taking pictures without pay, so we exchanged info, and I did my first test. It was a blast. And being scouted kept happening. I was scouted again for a national Conair campaign that included print ads and a commercial and then offered an international campaign for Levis through the same celebrity photographer, Ken Nahoum. I was also scouted by Surface Magazine, New York Post for their “Street Style” section, amongst other publications, and ended up getting covers of magazines and starring in music videos, such as Type O Negative’s “My Girlfriend’s Girlfriend” where I had to kiss lead singer Peter Steele and he actually bit me — it made me laugh. It was super fun to see my face zip past on adverts on busses and find out I was in magazines, which many times I wouldn’t know until friends told me, which prompted me to hunt them down so I could buy them to mail to my family. It was a really cool experience, but a lot to juggle with my studies at Parsons — however, I still got good grades.

TCMC: How did you transition from modeling into acting?

CM: I got an agent who sent me on modeling "go-sees" and he asked me if I wanted to audition for a movie, and I agreed as I thought it sounded like fun -

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it was for this little indie horror film, and to my shock, I booked the role. The producers then offered me the lead in their next project, and that's how I started acting professionally.

TCMC: How did you end up with Bebe Buell as your manager?

CM: I attended a rock concert, and

according to a celebrity photographer friend, who was told the story and later shared it with me, Liv Tyler, who was with her mother, Bebe, spotted me and said, “Mommy, who’s that girl?”, which prompted Bebe to introduce herself to me. I shared that I was modeling and acting in movies, and she offered to be my talent manager. What an honor! Bebe was of course managing Liv, but her other client was Blondie lead singer Debbie Harry — one of my music heroes. I remember riding home in a limo with Jaoquin Phoenix, who Liv was dating at that time, and Debbie from the premier for Liv’s film Stealing Beauty, where I first met her father Steven Tyler, who was just lovely, and Debbie asked me what I did for a living, and I was so starstruck that I could barely remember — or speak. I think I squeaked out, “I act.”. It was also through Bebe that I met another of my music heroes — Joey Ramone of the Ramones — my all-time favorite band. Bebe was so amazing. She connected me with talent agency Innovative Artists, commercial agency CED, and top modeling agency IMG, who represented me through my move to Los Angeles.

TCMC: Tell us about the film projects

you worked on and how you ended up in Los Angeles.

CM: Legendary animator Bill Plympton gave me the great opportunity to star in


LONDON RUNWAY

his award-winning animated feature film, I Married a Strange Person! — I was a fan, so it was a great honor to work with him. Bill had me wear a short auburn-colored wig and drew me, and I did the voice for my character. And I’m still blown away that I booked the role of “Debby” in the GLAAD Media Awardwinning film High Art with Ally Sheedy and Radha Mitchell, directed by Lisa Cholendenko — I wore an outrageous “club kid” outfit, complete with feathered boa, to the audition. I remember thinking it was "right" for the part. And of course it was a dream come true to work with Martin Scorsese on Bringing Out the Dead with Nicolas Cage and Ving Rhames. Mr. Scorsese, who is the nicest man, kindly let me run with my creativity and elaborate on my lines, and I remember seeing Nicolas Cage cruising around set in leather pants and discovered he had his own omelette chef — you know you’ve made it if you have a personal omelette chef. I don’t eat eggs, as I’m a vegan, but still think that’s cool. And of course working with such talent as Michael Douglas, Katie Holmes, Tobey Maguire, Frances McDormand, and Robert Downey Jr. on the Golden Globe-winning film Wonder Boys, directed by Curtis Hanson, who also directed the Oscar-winning film L.A. Confidential, was mind-blowing. We shot the film in Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, and a lot of fans showed up for Katie. She would very generously cut her lunch break short to meet them and sign autographs — what a cool girl. I’ve been very blessed to star in many independent films, one of which brought me to Los Angeles, where I later ended up moving for a relationship.

TCMC:

Was this the relationship that led to you being in an A-list Hollywood family?

CM: Yes. My former father-in-law,

Robert Evans, and mother-in-law, Ali MacGraw, were wonderful to have as family. They were both so generous to me, and their great taste in home decor and personal style was so inspiring. Ali, who worked with Diana Vreeland of Harper’s BAZAAR and Vogue, was an amazing fashion mentor to me and even personally introduced me to Ralph Lauren. And there were so many great screenings and parties at Bob’s beautiful Beverly Hills home, where I had the pleasure to meet such fascinating people as Jack Nicholson, Helmut Newton, and

many others; and Bob's British butler and other staff were always so hospitable and went out of their way to make everyone perfectly comfortable. Bob and his home epitomised glamorous Hollywood, and I have many fond memories of hanging out and chatting with Bob and Ali and Bob’s other guests in his bedroom — where he held all his important meetings.

TCMC: Tell us about how you became a beauty expert?

CM: I had the great gift of working

with many top makeup artists, and hair and fashion stylists as a model and actress and loved watching them work. I would hang out in the hair and makeup trailer with the beauty crew instead of in my trailer, as to me that’s where the fun and action was at on-set. I remember watching makeup artists apply pigments and thinking it was very similar to fine arts painting or drawing, which I had a background in, so for a kick I took classes and got my makeup artist certification. Soon after, I received an offer to do spokesperson work for one of the world’s top luxury cosmetics companies and accepted it, because it’s a passion of mine to help everyone feel their best. It’s been scientifically proven that there is a correlation between the application of cosmetics and a boosted immune system,so you’re healthier when you like what you see in the mirror — wanting to look good isn’t all vanity. I traveled nationally and

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internationally for the gig and spoke with many people, and the top question I would get from all is “How do I look my best?”. It was unanimous, everyone wanted to know how to get from “the celebrity without makeup looking ‘blah’ in sweatpants”, which we can all relate to, to “personally gorgeous like a star on the red carpet”, so I set out to create a foolproof scientific system that could give each person this experience as well as answers to tough beauty-related questions that at the time didn’t have answers — and thank God I succeeded. From my discoveries, I created the Universal Beauty Standard System™ as well as some original techniques, and began teaching others. Then a dear friend of mine suggested I put my findings in a book, so I did and also did the artwork for it. I entitled it, Hollywood Beauty: The Art of Star Makeup, but I couldn’t leave out the fellas because they want to look their best also, so I created an additional book for them entitled, Grooming for Men: From Dirty to Polished. The books totally fill the industry’s in-depth education gap to empower beauty novices through professionals with an unparalleled physical enhancement skill set, which includes original userfriendly beauty techniques, an A through Z all life stage education, and comprehensive individualised prescriptive solutions, so one can effectively choose and utilise products to maximise their individual physical appeal.


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TCMC: People can look inside your

TCMC: Can it be watched now?

beautiful books, which are styled like displayable coffee table books, on your website charismichelsen.com.

inspire hope and courage to hang on when going through a personal hell, to find out that everything happens for a good reason.

CM: Yes, and thank you for the

TCMC: The Reason Sh*t Happens

TCMC: Your books aren’t available to buy yet, but soon?

sounds like a movie everyone could use right now and get a lot out of.

fashion, you’ve done some design work and created an Artificial Intelligence Stylist. Tell us about that.

CM: That was my goal for the project.

CM: I created and patented a diamond-

compliment.

CM: Yes, that’s correct. TCMC: And you’ve just started posting videos with information from your books on your YouTube channel and social media accounts, which can be accessed through your website?

TCMC: What’s happening with that project?

CM: It’s being produced by Thomas D.

CM: Yes — all but my TikTok account. That account is accessible outside of my website.

Adelman, who is the former VP of Beatle George Harrison’s production company Handmade Films, and who’s been involved in making movies such as The Usual Suspects, Chuck Berry: Hail! Hail! Rock ’n’ Roll, with Keith Richards, and the Eloise movies.

TCMC: By the way, we love your

TCMC: You’ve also created a fashion,

videos. The information is awesome. We’ve already put many of the tips to use.

CM: Thank you. I’m so happy you’ve

found the information helpful.

TCMC: You don’t mind if we ask

others to like your videos and subscribe to your YouTube channel and follow you on your social media accounts?

CM: I would be very grateful and of

course appreciate any support I get. Thank you.

TCMC: It’s also true that your books

are endorsed by former Universal Pictures president and producer Thom Mount, who made movies such as Natural Born Killers?

CM: Yes. He very kindly compared them to Julia Childs’ Mastering The Art of French Cooking. TCMC: How did you connect with Mr. Mount?

CM: I had starred in a picture he

produced and baked him cookies during the holidays one year, and we struck up a conversation about my writing, as I’ve written several feature-length screenplays, and he wanted to read them. He liked my writing and wanted to develop a project with me, which we did. It’s entitled The Reason Sh*t Happens and is a dramedy meant to

style, and beauty-related TV show that you host. Tell us about that.

CM: It’s a glossy half-hour

documentary-style, up-close and personal exploration into the exciting and entertaining world of fashion, style, and beauty, offering the best fashion and cosmetic happenings, history, information, education, and advice to date — think an elegantly sexy Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown with a focus on fashion, style, and beauty, instead of food and travel, with added education. It’s also being produced by Thomas D. Adelman and executive produced by former President of International Sales and Distribution at Voltage Pictures and head of Lakeshore International Elisabeth Costa de Beauregard of Storyboard Media, with Mackenzie Smith.

TCMC: We’ll definitely be watching this show! What’s it called?

CM:

Fashion Style Beauty.

TCMC: Love the title -— it’s perfect. CM: Thanks.

CM: Not yet, but soon. TCMC: We can’t wait. And speaking of

dot pattern that is expressed in twenty colors, which contains a unique color technology that makes each act as a neutral, allowing each color to be more compatible with various outfits, and I’ve created designs employing conscious fabrics for use with it. I would like to eventually launch my own line of fashion and beauty products. And I created an AI Stylist using my Universal Beauty Standard System™ that offers better personal styling than what celebrity stylists offer without making them obsolete. The Stylist connects an individual with their ideal clothing, shoes, accessories, and cosmetics, and styles them. It will be housed on the Fashion Style Beauty Network, a multifaceted online platform - which is coming soon. My goal with the Stylist is to answer the question, “What should I wear?” for everyone, without dictating personal style to anyone.

TCMC: We totally want smart and

conscious fashion products and love that you honour the individual. Who wouldn’t want to be perfectly and effortlessly personally styled? This is all so exciting!


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CM: I want to make life happier and

easier for people, as well as businesses. My hope is for consumers to say goodbye to the days of buyer’s remorse, as everything purchased through the Stylist should work well for them, and of course vendors will appreciate fewer returns, which will save them a lot of money, increasing their profits.

TCMC: Speaking of business, you just

signed with a new agent and manager and were offered a role in a new movie?

CM: Yes. I have a terrific team at

Trinity Artists International and have just been offered a role in a great new movie with a top name in the entertainment industry. I’m so very grateful.

TCMC: We can’t wait to see you on-

screen in a movie or TV show — and especially hosting your new show, Fashion Style Beauty. We have one last question — we’re dying to find out if you could offer us any beauty tips?

CM:

It would be my honor. Would you like to learn how to choose your perfect red lip colour?

TCMC: We would be thrilled! We’ve never been able to figure out how to choose our best red lip colour.

CM: Okay, there are two steps, and I have some suggestions and tips:

STEP 1: Access the depth of your skin tone. How pale or dark are you? NOTE: This determination will lead to choosing a lip colour that harmonizes with the shade depth of your skin tone. NOTE: Classically, the darker your skin tone is, the darker your lip colour should be. For example, if you have a pale skin tone, choose bright red. If your skin tone is medium in shade depth, choose a red that’s a little darker. If your skin tone is dark, choose deep red, and if your skin tone is very dark, choose dark red. STEP 2: Look past how pale or dark you are, and determine the most predominant undertone colour(s) in your skin. Do you have more yellow/gold/olive in your skin? Equal amounts of yellow/gold/olive and pink/red in your skin? Or more pink/red in your skin? NOTE: If your skin’s undertone is predominantly yellow/gold/olive, lip colours that are “warm” with a yellow or gold

undertone would be the most flattering, such as a “tomato red”. If you have a neutral skin tone with neither a predominate yellow/gold/olive undertone nor a predominate pink/red undertone, “neutral” lip colours, with equal amounts of both pink/red and yellow/gold, would be the most flattering. If you have a skin tone with a pink or red undertone, then “cool” lip colours with a pink or red undertone would be the most flattering. Here are some red lip colour suggestions based upon the depth of your skin tone and your skin’s undertone(s): LIGHT/PALE SKIN TONES: WARM: Bright red, bright orange-red. NEUTRAL: Bright true red. COOL: Bright cool red. MEDIUM SKIN TONES: WARM: Medium coral red. NEUTRAL: Medium brick red. COOL: Medium berry red. DARK SKIN TONES: WARM: Deep cinnamon. NEUTRAL: Deep brick red. COOL: Deep raspberry, deep burgundy. DEEP DARK SKIN TONES: WARM: Dark tomato red. NEUTRAL: Dark brick red. COOL: Dark berry, dark burgundy. Here are some red lip colour tips: * For a classic red lip look, choose cream, matte, or semi-matte/suedetextured lip products. * When wearing a classic red lip look, it’s best to keep the rest of your makeup natural-looking. See my video THE FOUR BASIC FACES on YouTube, or an abbreviated version of the same video on Instagram or TikTok, for additional information. * For a more casual red lip look, choose sheer-textured lip products in the colour cherry red. * Keep the size of your lips in mind when choosing a red lip color. For example, if you have small lips, a dark

shade of red will make your lips appear even smaller, so choose a brighter shade of red, and possibly one with a lightreflective property, such as a lip gloss. If your lips are large, you may want to choose a red in a sheer texture and/or in a matte or semi-matte/suede texture so your lips won’t overpower the rest of your features. * Test your red lip colour when wearing no makeup. NOTE: If a lip colour looks good on you when wearing no makeup, it’s a great choice for you. * When in doubt about which red lip colour is right for you, choose a sheertextured lip product in the colour cherry red. * Before applying a red lip colour, apply a lip stain or lip liner in a similar colour underneath it, so if your lip colour wears off, your lips will still appear polished-looking. * For a more casual red lip look, skip applying lip liner before applying your red lip colour. * If you have a warm skin tone and a warm red lip colour makes your teeth appear yellow-looking, opt for a red lip color that has a neutral undertone. * To create your own sheer-textured red lip colour, mix lip balm with your red lip colour in a 3:1 ratio. * If you’re a person of maturity, wearing a lip colour similar to your natural lip colour will make it more difficult to detect if your lip colour bleeds into any fine lines around your mouth. And of course, a great British cosmetic company to shop for your perfect red lip colour is Charlotte Tilbury!

YouTube channel: CHARIS MICHELSEN Instagram: @charismichelsen_official TikTok: charismichelsen_official Facebook: official.charismichelsen Twitter: OfficialCharisM Official Website: charismichelsen.com For acting inquiries: Contact Trinity Artists international 011-310-728-4000 Agent: Sheila Finegan sheila@trinityartist.com Manager: Jeff Smith jeff@trinityartist.com For production inquiries: Contact Thomas D. Adelman of TDA pictures 011-310-913-5274 comanchee23@aol.com


COUNTRYSIDE Wardrobe/Stylist/Model: Nataliya Bugaychuk @nataliya_bugaychuk Photographer: Lena Berkas @lenaberkas

Nataliya wears: Dress - MARIA BELOVODSKAYA @maria_belovodskaya


Nataliya wears: Shirt, trousers - MARIOLLI @mariolli_official; Shoes - STRADIVARIUS @stradivarius


Nataliya wears: Dress - MARIOLLI @mariolli_official



Nataliya wears: Shirt, trousers - MARIOLLI @mariolli_official; Top: RESERVED @reserved


Nataliya wears: Dress - MARIOLLI @mariolli_official; Coat - MARIA BELOVODSKAYA @maria_belovodskaya; Shoes - DR. MARTENS @drmartensofficial


Nataliya wears: Top, shirt - MARIOLLI @mariolli_official;


Nataliya wears: Coat- MARIA BELOVODSKAYA @maria_belovodskaya; Shoes - DR. MARTENS @drmartensofficial


Nataliya wears: Dress - MARIOLLI @mariolli_official


Nataliya wears: Dress - MARIOLLI @mariolli_official


LONDON RUNWAY

HOW AGE IMPACTS FASHION From young to old, Jessica Carvalho speaks on the way age impacts trends and the fashion industry, and explores whether there is an age limit for style.

It is no secret that fashion has become an intrinsic part of our lives. Necessity turned form of expression, one size does not fit all when it comes to clothes, which mirror the diverse nature of our society. Rules which once set the tone for brands are now being actively defied, as gender, size, and race are finally celebrated rather than tucked away out of sight. The shift impacts every sector of the fashion industry and the rest of the world, too – seeing people with similar characteristics as you infiltrate spaces that were previously accessible only to a select few triggers a cascade of empowerment and hope for the fashion industry. Though, the passage of time has yet to chip away at the clear divisions within the industry; admittedly often socioeconomically motivated, these are also accentuated by age. Sure, the belief that style loses value with age is one that is severely outdated, but the change is yet to be seen implemented across the industry. Too often, people are told that as they grow older, they are to favour sophistication and timelessness rather than trends; that greying of hair and other changes that occur with age are all indications that it is time for an age-appropriate wardrobe purge. Realistically, yes – ageing and style changes can go hand in hand, but this doesn’t have to always be the case, as fashion was - after all – made to cater to everybody.

To simply believe that anyone can dress the way they wish regardless of age isn’t enough, as this is yet to become a widespread belief in the industry. Luxury and average alike, brands typically target items towards a younger, slimmer audience. An example of this is the Y2K (standing for ‘Year 2000’) trend that gained infinite traction in the past two years. The ideal body type for this trend was found to be that of teenage girls. The revival of early 2000s fashion trends caught on almost instantly, Prada going as far as revamping their 2005 nylon bag, a staple piece of the era. Although catered to a younger, more aesthetically desirable demographic, certain items like the Prada re-nylon bag are ironically more comfortably afforded by those that are older. Despite this, superficial and blatant preferences like these impact older people, enforcing the idea that ageing correlates with less of a desire to be trendy and in style; there are inclusive options for all the aforementioned characteristics, apart from age. SunLife, a financial services company, stated that 78% of people over 50 in the UK have yet to witness age representation of their demographic in the past year, whether that be in fashion or elsewhere. Portraying people as perpetually youthful feeds into a self-hatred and deluded narrative, given that the only certainty in life is growing older.

Images via Pexels and Canva

Images via Pexels


LONDON RUNWAY Furthermore, the belief that fashion loses meaning the older someone is almost enforces that the older we become, the less we should selfindulgence. Despite primarily serving as a means for protection, clothes have also become just that; an outlet of self-indulgence which often has shallow and selfish connotations pinned to it. Women in particular fall subject to this, indoctrinated with the belief that the older they get, the more they should shift their focus to big life changes such as professional progression or starting a family, and being fashionable and trendy is no longer important. Whilst that may be so in the grand scheme of things, ageing isn’t a defining factor on whether one should stop dressing up - or even start. There is no expiration date on fashion! Watching the industry come to grips with this statement has been interesting. In a quick search online, I was immediately met with an extensive list of “don’ts” for women aged 40 and over. Though innocent in appearance, adding rules to something as abstract as fashion is foolish, even more so when they only apply to a certain demographic.

started to be more widely used by all kinds of brands - a remarkable example being Penelope Tree, an icon of the 1960s modelling scene, making her runway return with Fendi just last year. The decision to showcase an older demographic doesn’t only stand for a legitimate cause. It has been reported by the International Longevity Centre that brands who use a more inclusive range of models will ultimately be favoured, as an £11bn increase in spending on clothing by those over 50 is expected by 2040. Despite the widespread positive change, there is still plenty to work on. Tokenism of older people in fashion is still rampant, and negativity towards people who refuse to conform to the rules of their age group is still very much alive. Fashion was made for every person on this planet, regardless of age, gender, size, race, and ethnicity. It’s time we see the fashion industry mirror the beautiful mosaic that is diversity, with real, long-lasting change. To read more of Jessica’s work, visit her Instagram page @whatjesstypes.

In addition to this, it isn’t exactly uncommon to see one older model in a fashion campaign, or in some form of advertising, and though it may be argued that this is a form of representation, it’s frankly just tokenism. In fact, it makes one wonder why there can’t be more; if one older woman can be included in this campaign, why can’t another? Why can’t several? On the front lines combatting ‘lookism’ in fashion is blogger and journalist Alyson Walsh, who founded That’s Not My Age, a style blog catered to women over 50. The blog, twelve years strong, has given older models and fashion enthusiasts a platform, using a clever mix of social media and fantastic sense of style to ultimately tear down misconceptions about age and fashion. This positive ripple of change seems to finally be reaching the rest of the industry now, becoming the most diverse it’s ever been with every season. Older models have

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NEW FACE: POLINA Name: Polina Levi Age: 27 Location: London Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 2 years Where are you from originally? Russia

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Play the nervous What would surprise people to know about you? I am happy person and feel blessed for my life every second What are your modelling ambitions? Just enjoying it with myself and my teams

Photographer: Mihaela Rogova Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Ksenija Anisimova Model: Polina Levitskaya Fashion Designer: Marina Apanasovic @m.a.rrime

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May wears: Dress - Jonathan Kayne


NEW FACE: MAY Name: May Mammaz Age: 30 Location: New York, NY Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 10 years. Where are you from originally? Puerto Rico

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? No What would surprise people to know about you? I have a Masters in Software Engineering. What are your modelling ambitions? To soon become a catalogue model and eventually open my own agency.

Photographer: Mark Johnson @markjohnson.photo Model: May Mammaz @maythemodel

May wears: Top and Shoes - Calvin Klein @calvinklein; Trousers - Fashion Nova @fashionnova

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NEW FACE: OLIVIA Name: Olivia Coker Age: 23 Location: Boulder, Colorado Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? Less than a year! Where are you from originally? I am originally from St. Louis, Missouri.

What would surprise people to know about you? I work as a professional mermaid! I scuba dive in aquariums around the country and do ocean education for children. What are your modelling ambitions? I want to be able to help photographers and artists create their vision and tell a story. I would love to continue building my portfolio and be more involved in the modeling world.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I am a competitive figure skater!

Model: Olivia Coker @liv_coker Photographer: Adriane Leigh Robinson @adrianeleighphoto Olivia wears: The Puff Dress - Selkie

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MIHAELA ROGOVA My name is Mihaela Rogova, I am a London based photographer. Originally, I came from Moldova. Ever since I was younger, I aspired to the arts. My interest in photography started around five years ago. However, with the arrival of my children it became increasingly hard to combine photography and to care for my little children. But I always had a passion about photography, my camera was always next to me, I did practice a lot on capturing family moments, and my children were my main models. I did not study photography at university, but many years of art study helped me to expose my artistic vision in photography. Some people think that I have a complicated personality, that is reflected in my photography work as well. As I do not follow rules, I just follow my own vision. I am trying to find inspiration in learning a new thing, experimenting. Travelling, observing – learning a new thing. I look for a fresh look, for new ways to photograph familiar locations and subjects.

portfolio piece


Models: Keren Falade @kerenalade; Phoebe Bluestone @phoeebee__; Lucia Hudackova @lucy.hudacek; Valentina Esposito @valentina_esposito22 Fashion Designer: Marina Apanasovic @m.a.rrime Photographer: Mihaela Rogova @photographermihaela Makeup Artists: Eli Pereira @elipereiraofficial; Mihaela Rogova @mihaelarogova_london; Elizabeth Shokan @elizabethshokan; Sarahlily Feldman @glambysarahlily Assistant: Ozoda Muminova @photoshootinlondon @photoshootinlondon


STRONG BOY LONELY Photographer: Serge Bazilic @sergebazilic Model: Alex Verbitsky @alex_verbitsky Makeup Artist: Elena Dzhangiryan @ellenadzhangiryan

Alex wears: Recycled denim jumpsuit - Pierre Chique


Alex wears: Recycled denim jumpsuit - Pierre Chique


Alex wears: Windcheater - iDoL


Alex wears: Sport top - CK


Alex wears: T-shirt and trousers - FINCH; Sunglasses - KOMONO


Alex wears: T-shirt and trousers - FINCH; Sunglasses - KOMONO; Windcheater: iDoL


Alex wears: T-shirt and trousers - FINCH; Sunglasses - KOMONO



Alex wears: Shorts: BLEND


Alex wears: Shorts: BLEND


LONDON RUNWAY

INFANTILISATION IN FASHION This week, Ruth Croft explores the concept of childlike nostalgia in current fashion trends, and why that is potentially a problem. Ever since I was young, I have always loved the concept of invigorating fashion. That which catches the eye like a rare jewel trapped in the dirt, that something extraordinary in a sea of unremarkable trends. I saw the fashion world as a glittering galaxy, a thousand lightyears away from everything I knew, and I learned to expect something sensational amongst the everyday colours of black and grey. As a child, it was bright neon patterns, and heavy, bejewelled accessories, belts fashioned from scarves, friendship bracelets, jelly sandals. It was everything tacky and retro and absolutely full of joy.

Then, a few weeks ago, I was spending the night scrolling through Instagram, when I was suddenly hit by an overwhelming sense of nostalgia. I realised that I was looking at the revival of youth, of styles that I hadn’t thought about in years. It is a trend that is reminiscent of innocence; of the time where we didn’t need to worry about paying the bills or how much the price of a cup of coffee is these days. It encapsulates the heart of childhood. And no wonder, in reflection of the last year, that we want to see a reminder of naivety. In an era where we’ve all been forced to make sacrifices, it’s understandable that industries such as the fashion world wish to present us with a reminder of simpler times. It is a pattern that is also apparent in mainstream media, with the rebooting of millennial television shows, like Gossip Girl and Pretty Little Liars. In 2020, there was even an emergence of teens on TikTok being fascinated by flip phones and the original iPod. It seems that everyone is looking wistfully into the past twenty years for an escape; to reinvent the time where it was perfectly normal to enjoy being a child. However, it is Gen Z, in particular, who have chosen to implement this style. They are taking their childhood aesthetic, and romanticising it into fashion idolism. The result is influencers all over social media posing in plastic high heels, with tiny handbags. It is suddenly cool to wear Crocs. Huge, clunky rings set with glass stones are worn on every finger. It is retro reinvention in its teenage rebellion. Through this, we have to consider whether this trend is also a reflection of society’s obsession with prioritising and preserving youth. It is no secret that the concept of looking young forever is idolised, both within modern media, and the fashion and beauty industry. Even in the era of seeing an increase in body diversity on most social media platforms, we are still surrounded by the effects of airbrushing in order to conceal ‘imperfections.’

Images via Canva


LONDON RUNWAY These being wrinkles, body hair, loose skin, stretch marks, and cellulite; all normal signs of growing into adulthood. The fact that these are being covered suggests that there is still one body type being revered in the fashion world, and it is one that symbolises the formative years. This is problematic for several reasons. The first being that the majority of society do not look perfectly edited to a professional level in everyday life, and are therefore not seeing themselves represented in the media. This can be disheartening when said media is imposed upon us whenever we click onto Instagram or Twitter; or whenever we walk into a shop and see the magazine aisle. If we are told enough times that our skin isn’t smooth enough, or that our body hair needs to be waxed away, then eventually we will start to believe it. Moreover, the reverence towards young and unblemished physiques can suggest an even darker undertone. The aesthetic that is being portrayed to us as the most attractive, is undeniably the most debateable. If we are idolising youth, then, in turn, we are admiring those who are young, and are expected to find them desirable. This is concerning, especially when intertwined with the current fashion trends. We are being presented with a look that reminds us of our childhood, whilst also being required to find it fashionable, and attractive to look at. And it’s not just the soft, rosy-cheeked look that the beauty industry is forcing upon us; it is the cartoon prints on t-shirts that reveal the midriff, and tie-dye mini skirts. Whether we like it or not, there is a suggestion of sexualisation surrounding these fashion choices, and the fact that these additions of childish nostalgia are being aimed at adults is disturbing within that context. However, the infantilisation of women in the fashion industry is not a new movement. The belief that women are the weaker and more submissive gender has been perpetuated for thousands of years, right from the time of the Ancient Greeks, and is still pertinent in certain cultures today.

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Even in the modern Western world, there is still a stereotype that portrays women as dependent in their femininity; fragile, and emotionally vulnerable. There are evident parallels to childlike expectations. And it is only exacerbated by the media, and their desire to strip women of their natural womanhood, and to reduce them to girlish attributes. This, in addition to the sexualisation of said women in fashion, with their exposed vulnerability, only strengthens the connection to infantilisation. It’s the Lolita fantasy, posted all over social media by those who believe it an aesthetic.

But the question remains: why is it still deemed necessary in 2021 fashion? Surely it is possible to create fashion trends that evoke reminiscence of childhood joy, without sexualising it, or targeting it at adults rather than children themselves. The industry doesn’t need to perpetuate these stereotypes, nor does it need to reach potentially distressing conclusions surrounding the worship of youth. All we require is the destruction of the perceived intertwining of femininity and childhood, in order to eradicate the concept of infantilisation completely, and to allow us the freedom to appreciate fashion trends in their revival. You can read more of Ruth’s work on Instagram by following @thewriterruth. Images via Canva Stock


Photographer: Rhiannon D'Averc @rhiannondaverc Model: Ella LaBeau at Connect Model Management @ella.lebeau Photography & livestream assistant: Amber Johnson @amberjohn_ Wardrobe: Alison Fern Jewellery @alisonfernjewellery and LAGE @lage_jewellery Cookies: Half Baked Cookie Co. @halfbaked_cookieco Photographs taken during the London Runway Virtual Festival 2021 - Check out our IGTV for both the photoshoot and the editing process!

Dinner for one

Ella wears: Lula Double Chain Necklace - £135, and Horne Circle Bracelet, £245 - LAGE


Ella wears: Lula Double Chain Necklace - £135, Palmer Link Bracelet - £210, and Horne Circle Bracelet, £245 LAGE; Ella Earrings - £58, and Willow Necklace - £89, Alison Fern Jewellery


Ella wears: Palmer Link Bracelet - £210, and Palmer Oval Earrings - £180, LAGE; Willow Necklace - £89, Alison Fern Jewellery


Ella wears: Lula Double Chain Necklace - £135, Horne Circle Pearl Earrings - £140, and Horne Circle Bracelet, £245 - LAGE


Ella wears: Lula Double Chain Necklace - £135 and Horne Circle Pearl Earrings - £140, LAGE; Frida Bracelet - £37.50, Alison Fern Jewellery


Ella wears: Palmer Oval Earrings - £180, and Horne Circle Pearl Earrings - £140 LAGE; Ella Earrings - £58, Alison Fern Jewellery


Ella wears: Frida Bracelet - £37.50, Alison Fern Jewellery


Ella wears: Horne Circle Pearl Earrings - £140, LAGE


Ella wears: Lula Double Chain Necklace - £135, Palmer Link Bracelet - £210, Palmer Oval Earrings - £180, Palmer Link Pearl Earrings - £120, and Horne Circle Bracelet, £245 - LAGE; Willow Necklace - £89, Petal Earrings £89, Alison Fern Jewellery


Ella wears: Palmer Oval Earrings - £180, LAGE; Frida Bracelet - £37.50, Alison Fern Jewellery


Ella wears: Lula Double Chain Necklace - £135, Palmer Link Pearl Earrings - £120, and Horne Circle Bracelet £245, LAGE


STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE

Baukjen Pippa Dress £145.00

ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli

Beautiful Earth Boutique Celia Double Flower Earrings £29.95

Boden Stripe Detail TShirt - Navy £30.00

Spoke London Sharp Shorts £75.00

Reve-en-vert Passion Nail Polish £18.00 Wearthlondon KSANA Ruby Red & Silver Silicone Watch £75.00 Smallable Hanna Blouse Red £53.00

Trotters Ruby Extra Large Bow Hair Clip £8.00 Youngbritishdesigners Red/Rose Petal Bag. Large £325.00

Boden Embroidered Capri Jeans - White Embroidered Strawberry £27.00

Trotters Red Gingham Thomas Shirt £45.00

Trotters Stone Charlie Chino Shorts £40.00

Allbirds Men's Tree Dashers £120.00 Lociwear Loci Dress Up Vegan Sneakers £135.00

PAINT THE TOWN RED PAGE 65


FASHION STARTUPS IN 2021 WITH THE PURPLE COLLECTION Enjoy this abridged interview with The Purple Collection, taken from our London Runway Virtual Festival! Watch the full discussion with more content on our IGTV.

LR: How about first of all, you introduce yourself and let everyone know what is The Purple Collection, what is it all about. TPC: My name is Susanna. I'm the founder of The Purple Collection. And as you can tell, it’s literally purple, the whole clothing and the whole aesthetic. I chose the colour purple since it's my favourite colour, I've always been obsessed with purple, and sadly enough, I can't pinpoint what shade of purple is my favourite. I just tend to say, I like the whole range of purple! So we launched in May but I originally came up with the idea last year. LR: So it's quite a long journey from coming up with the idea to actually launch it! Talk us through some of the stages that you've had to go through just from having that initial idea. TPC: So, I've never been in the fashion industry. I don't really know what it entails. Being on the phone, my friend and I must have been like, Oh, I'm gonna do a collab with Rhianna! She said, Okay, what's your idea and I was just like, I don't know, I want to do something purple, and then she must have said, Go on then. And I know it sounds so simple, but it's like, okay. So with that, I started thinking about, okay, what do I actually want to put in the collection. And so my aesthetic in general is more of the vintage inspired style. I also wanted to go into another style that I didn't really have much knowledge about just to broaden my knowledge, as well as cater for more people. So with that, I went on Pinterest, and I went to seek some inspiration. I have a friend that's an artist, so we had phone calls and we even met up, and I was explaining my idea and she drew it all down.

So then, [I was on] The Dots. It's like a Creative Social Media for creatives, and I've got in contact with a fashion stylist. I must have been like, hey, these are my designs, let's do it. She was like, I don't make the clothes and I was like, what? And I know it sounds silly again, but I didn't know the difference between a fashion stylist or fashion designer, I didn't really understand the process. So, she then said, we need to find a seamstress, so I found a seamstress called Chloe, who actually designed all the clothing. So we sat down, we saw the drawings, we did a breakdown of the fabric that we wanted to confirm my ideas. And then we started the process. LR: Amazing. So, are there any kind of resources that you've been relying on, as you've been learning so much along this journey? TPC: I am willing to do a massive shout out to The Dots, as well as it being a social platform for creatives, the webinars that they put on, the workshops that they put on, are so beneficial. I totally recommend to anyone wanting to progress in their career as well as like a small business. LR: I want to talk about COVID in a second but first of all, you're doing a giveaway today. So let's tell the guys about that. TPC: Okay guys, so the first two followers from London Runway, if you DM me, you'll receive a scrunchie. And a face mask. And it's such a pretty colour. It's Duchess satin, which is really good for the skin. The following followers that come in, that DM me saying London Runway Mag will receive a discount on the clothing! LR: That's really amazing, I wish I could enter, they look really nice! TPC: Yeah, definitely, I think, when it came down to picking the fabric,

PAGE 66

I wanted to make sure that it's eco friendly and it benefits us as well as the planet. LR: Let's talk about sustainability, actually, how important is that to you? TPC: It means a lot. Even when it comes to like the food I consume, and just things that I have around me, it needs to be organic, it needs to be eco friendly, it needs to be good for the environment as well as myself. So, having those thoughts towards what I put in my body, I want to do that when I'm wearing it as well and just with the things I have around me material things. LR: Yeah, it's very important for us as well and we love that. So, we were talking about COVID - how has that really affected the process for you? TPC: It was hard throughout, but specifically in the beginning, due to lockdown I wasn't able to visit the seamstress. Just had frequent Zoom calls just to see everything, but I like seeing things with my eyes. Yeah, it was hard.


LONDON RUNWAY

LR: So, we've had so much stuff happening over the past couple of years, I think, in the fashion industry and in society as a whole. We've also had Black Lives Matter, and we've had what we call performative activism. I'm seeing a lot of push to support Black-owned businesses. Have you seen any effect of that?

LR: How do you think it's affected the launch of the business? Do you think it has had an impact? TPC: Good question. I'm gonna say yes, because when booking a studio... There's just so much uncertainty. Like, how many people can be in that space, or are we actually still going to be allowed to run the session. LR: And how about choosing who you work with, how has that been like? TPC: One of the fashion stylists that were involved, Liliana, she's a friend of mine. We went to the BRIT School together. I've seen her work, and I know how she works, so I just thought it would be amazing for her to jump on board because she's an amazing stylist. And then Misha and Chloe, I found them off The Dots, their portfolio.

TPC: I like your questions. I don't know. I think during that time when it was at the hype, the peak of it, I didn't have the business at that time. So, I can't compare how the business would have been, then compared to now. But regardless, the support and the love and everything that I'm getting from anyone is [making me] happy. LR: It seems like a lot of that has kind of died away, people have just kind of forgotten about it which is a shame because it should be a change, not just a trend. TPC: Yeah, but I'm sure we'll find ways to keep bringing that up and keep pushing them. LR: What kind of support have you seen coming through - is it like friends and family or have you had any other businesses or fellow people in the industry reaching out to you? TPC: Friends and family, of course, and also businesses. I've received a few DMS, where they've been like hey I love what you're doing, like, keep up the good work, even if it's just that sort of support and also, hey, we want to collab with you. Even myself as well, I've been outreaching to people because I'm gonna give the love, especially if it's deserved and needed because having a small business is hard. It's so easy to be like, I want to do this, I want to do that, but having to do it comes with so many things that follow after. LR: What would you say was the biggest roadblock or problem that you've come across? TPC: The lockdown. And, a day before the shoot, unfortunately, the camera person that I had cancelled. Oh, I cried

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so hard. Luckily, my friend Liliana, she was able to get in contact with her friends who know a friend who was able to come down. So it got resolved! LR: What advice would you give to anyone starting up a company in fashion or retail? TPC: Do your research, you have to do your research. Again, I'm not in the fashion industry, I don't know anything about the fashion industry. This was just an idea that I had in mind. And you have to know what you want. Because encountering people, they can tell you what you want, and in your head, you're thinking, Oh, because they said it, that's what I want. No, you need to know what you want, because once that project has launched, once you have got into that industry, it’s your brand'. People are going to be looking at you to represent your brand. LR: I want to follow on to that one, about representing your brand. Is there a mindset that you've had to change or something that you've changed on social media, now being a company founder? TPC: Yeah, good question, and I'm an emotional person so I tend to lead with emotion. I’ve had to sit down and talk to myself and say, Okay, this is the time where you have to be professional and logical because you're not only representing yourself in a way, because you're the founder, you're also representing a company. I don't want a bad look on my company, I don't want a bad look on myself, so knowing how to handle situations, knowing what to put your energy into, is something that I had to have a deep chat with myself about.


LONDON RUNWAY

TPC: It can be as little as just sharing this. It doesn't have to be a thing where people have to necessarily buy something. Because every little counts, right? LR: Having everything handmade must bring his production challenges as well. What are some of the challenges that come along with that?

LR: What has been the biggest success that you've had so far? TPC: The support, the support. It's not that I didn't think I would get support, but it was the amount of support and just knowing people are there and just knowing people want the best for me. And the people that have been involved as well, they've done so much for the business that I can't even... This wouldn't have been done with without the people that were involved. It meant a lot to me and that is a success to me. LR: I know as a small business owner that every single little tiny bit of support is so important and so meaningful. What's the best way that someone can show their support to you now?

TPC: I have to be certain on everything, because once it's done... Even with the fabric. I got sent five different samples of fabric, I wanted to make sure that it was the right fabric because again, once it's done, it's done. I like to do my research because you can you can search something on Google and you can find something for cheaper or even better quality somewhere else if you just take your time. LR: What were you doing before launching your collection? TPC: So, I am an event planner. However, I had to take myself out of that industry, just because of COVID, as we all know. I'm also an actress, I studied acting at the BRIT School Theatre, and I'm an upcoming DJ. And alongside that, I have a charity with my friends where we provide girls with menstrual cups in Kenya.

We started when in 2017, when we were 17. And then we had our first trip in 2018. And it was one of the most emotional things of our lives, because as well as just experiencing it is also helping individuals which I love doing. So, it's just ensuring that the girls are able to continue with their education, while feeling comfortable within. So, educating the girls on their periods as well as providing cups for them, and I'm so proud of all of us.The Instagram is @officialprojectperiod. LR: What are the kind of things that you've experienced so far with marketing as a startup? TPC: It is hard with understanding the algorithm. Because I don't have a personal Instagram, or I don't have social media, I deleted that over a year ago. So understanding how to use it again, even like I didn't know how to join a Live. Again, big shout out to The Dots, go into their workshops on marketing. I was able to acquire so much knowledge. I tend to do monthly reviews of the whole marketing aspect, just so I can see what can I do better, what haven't I done that I should do or stop doing. TPC: Let's talk about platforms like Depop. What do you think are the pros and cons of being a site like Depop, as opposed to just doing it through your own website. TPC: So pros, I'm able to reach more people, I suppose, due to hashtags. The cons. I guess it's the fees. With that being said, we also sell through Instagram, I will use it for bank transfers so it's cheaper. LR: Amazing. I've had so much fun chatting with you, is there anything you want to add? TPC: Yeah, I want to thank you for this conversation, it's been super fun. I've really enjoyed it! Find out more about The Purple Collection on Instagram @thepurplecollectionx All images via The Purple Collection

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Eszter wears: H&M

THE RED AND ME Model: Eszter Égető Albatrosz @albatrosz_modell Makeup Artist: Égető Erika @erikaegeto Photographer: Gergely Nagy @n.o.r.a.photography


Eszter wears: H&M


Eszter wears: S'Oliver


Eszter wears: H&M


Eszter wears: H&M


Eszter wears: S'Oliver


THE RED STRENGTH

Photographer: Krystian Data @krystian.data Fashion Designer: Angelo Fair Couture @angelofaircouture Models: Jasmine Sumner @jasmine.sumner, Nandi Pama @nandipettite Makeup Artist: Keely Mccarthy @keelymakeupandhair





BYE-BYE TRACKSUIT This month, Cicilia proposes some trendy womenswear autumn outfits ideas. So close your tracksuits in a box, or keep the bottoms if you still work from home, and get ready for a shopping spree. Although many of us are on holiday, the lucky ones probably on a white sandy beach sipping drinks, it's time to start thinking about the autumn wardrobe. Fortunately, many will return to inperson lectures or go back to the office. Sure enough, the combo of blouse, sweatpants, and fluffy socks is no longer an option. The summer spirit and the return of some social occasions allow us to re-experience the joy of dressing properly. However, going back to complete outfits with office shoes and tidy hair will be a shock or a mystical experience. The trends for next autumn are suitable for everyone; we have glamorous looks and cosy but stylish outfits. So from the beach or your neighbourhood park, unleash your phone and start browsing the site of your favourite brands.

DAY-NCING QUEEN To start off in grand style, we have the opulence trend - a proper blast of sequins and glitter fabrics. A highwaisted pair of trousers paired with a plain turtle neck and a bold sequin blazer is a fancy option for the artistic souls. Forget the ban on sequins before cocktail time! This outfit is the right option for making a triumphal comeback to the routine. Perhaps more appropriate to fashion students or those who work in this sector. If sequins are a bit too much for you, I suggest a pair of black glitter fabric trousers. There are plenty of options for next season, and I would style it with a white blazer. You'll have an elegant university-suitable outfit and you’ll be a bang of elegance for your night out.

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COLOUR PALETTE If being a disco ball seems a little excessive to you, start the autumn by bringing with you some summer reminiscences. Colourful outfits will also be on the agenda for autumn. Matching purple and yellow, orange and pink, and green and yellow will make you look incredibly fashionable. For this trend, I suggest you look at some fashion shows or the Instagram page of your favourite influencers, just in case armocromia is not your thing. A solid-coloured maxi coat or cardigan is the right option for those who usually love more neutral colours. Just pair it with a basic navy blue, black, beige, or denim bottom. If you are not used to flashy outfits, start with just some touch of bright colours. Wide coloured blouses combined with soft trousers are very cool for warmer autumn days. Try also a monochromatic outfit matching accessories in the complementary shade of the main colour you wear.

SAVILLE-ROW LOVER Are you tired of seeing Instagram influencers wearing pastel blazers? One of the hot trends for next season is tailored-styled outfits. I'm sorry, blazers will be a big trend. Masculine shaped and long blazers and coats, maybe with a tartan or houndstooth pattern, are a must-have. Square shapes, multilayered outfits are a go-to choice for office goers and students. Add a touch of chic wearing a Hermès style scarf tied around the neck or opt for a mini skirt, maybe pleated. For a more androgynous look, wear a tie in the same colour as your shirt. This will be a sophisticated yet stylish detail. If you have a lot of spare time, start looking for a matching shirt and tie. It's not easy, but undoubtedly stylish!

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LONDON RUNWAY For the younger ones, a cropped blazer is also a great option. Although as announced by the catwalks, we could see mini blazers worn with nothing underneath. Only cold temperatures could spare us this eyesore. ROARING TWENTIES Vintage lovers, there's a trend for you! The Roaring Twenties are silently coming back. Cloche hats and turbans with jewel decoration can make any outfit sophisticated. The turban is a stylish choice for post-office drinks or romantic dinners. Carry it in your bag, and after a touch of gloss and a quick hairstyle change, you'll sneak out of the office in style.

pieces with colourful pink, red, or green patterns. Or go for more classic whites ones with just a few coloured details. A long patterned statement cardigan worn with a belt and opaque tights is optimal for those who can't wear casual outfits but want to stay a bit cosy. Match this outfit with heeled ankle boots and a maxi tote to store a sequinned skirt. This is for sure a very unusual combo, but I promise you'll look stunning and highly trendy. Just pair everything very carefully, avoiding too many colours. For sure, you don't want to look like a mountaineer after a compulsive shopping spree in the Harrods eveningwear department.

I'd start making a bowl of popcorn and watch the Great Gatsby (2013), directed by Baz Luhrmann. Enjoy two and a half hours of pure fashion, where dozens of exquisite 1920s outfits will surely inspire you. The film also brims with pastel-shaded menswear suits. Wear a satin or silk slip dress under a blazer if a cloche hat doesn't scream Roaring Twenties enough for you. I would recommend flat shoes or solidcolour trainers not to look like you have landed in the office directly from a nightclub. STATEMENT KNITWEAR

If this boldness isn't your cup of tea, here comes a cosy trend. Statement knitwear, cropped, maxi, or cardigans are a must-have for next autumn. A touch of colour is necessary to start the season without depressingly falling into the monotony of the routine. Start purchasing knitwear

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I don’t know you, but I can’t wait to say farewell to loose sweatshirts and leggings that have been great companions for months of remote working. I think we are all looking forward to post-office cocktails with colleagues and fancy dinners with our loved ones, so why not get started with some fashion research? You can read more of Cicilia’s articles on ciciliabrognoli.com


BASKETBALL

Fashion Designer: Yana Khismatulina @hissme_yana Model: Maria Leonova at modelagentgroup @maria.leonova_ Photographer/Retoucher: Nadya Ryabova @lemniscata__ Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Violetta Ovinova @violetta_ovinova

Maria wears: Socks - Nike; Other - model's own


Maria wears: Socks - Nike; Other - model's own




Maria wears: Socks - Nike; Other - model's own


Maria wears: Hoody - Stradivarius; Other - model's own



Ocean Wave

Model: Victoria Shoynhorova @ria.shine Hair Stylist: Ekaterina Pokornaya @hair_by_pokornaya Photographer: Lyubov Belyavtseva @lyubovbelyavtseva Producer: Daria Valiguras @valiguras.photo Creative Director: Karina Bondar @ph.clairsvile Wardrobe Stylist: Victoria Startseva @vikastarceva Retoucher: Yelizaveta Shaporova @shaporova_retouch Makeup Artist: Tatiana Shumilina @shumy_mua


Victoria wears: All items - ANASTASIA CHERNYSHOVA @___chernyshova____


Victoria wears: Dress - Nesty Odina @nestyodina; Rings - [wʌn lʌv] @wanlav.jewelry


Victoria wears: Dress - Nesty Odina @nestyodina; Rings - [wʌn lʌv] @wanlav.jewelry


Victoria wears: All items - ANASTASIA CHERNYSHOVA @___chernyshova____


Victoria wears: Dress - Nesty Odina @nestyodina; Rings - [wʌn lʌv] @wanlav.jewelry


Victoria wears: Dress - Nesty Odina @nestyodina; Rings - [wʌn lʌv] @wanlav.jewelry


This issue, Katie Abson explores fun and quirky fashion predictions for 2022. Y2K fashion took 2021 by storm – from low rise jeans to satin camisole dresses, to retro swirl print flares. High street brands such as Zara, Motel Rocks, and Urban Outfitters dominated our search histories, and we popped our heads into every vintage store in town in search of a floral-patterned midi skirt to pair with our twist halter crop tops. For those who love to incorporate colour into our day-to-day style, 2021 has been a fashion dream. But what about 2022? Here are a few unconventional, quirky and unexpected predictions for the oncoming year. Rubber shoes

There’s no denying it – Crocs are back in. The no-hassle, easy slip-on waterproof shoe is making a comeback for 2022. The “ugly” shoe trend, from Birkenstocks to clogs, are making a regular appearance in street-style fashion shows. Daniel Lee’s rubber Puddle Boots, a fashionforward alternative to wellingtons, were Bottega Veneta’s most-wanted designer shoe of 2020. Next year is set to see a rise in poularity once

again. Given the likelihood of the murky English weather we’re bound to have, these indestructible shoes are sure to brighten any mood or outfit. Loose-fitting suits The fearless power-suit is a statement piece that will never go out of style. But fashion predictions from the runway depict that looser fitting blazers and paired trousers are on the rise for next year. Gone are the days where women feel obligated to accentuate waist sizes to feel and appear feminine. Informal, boxier shaped suits are coming into style, presenting a more relaxed, casual and carefree appearance. We’re scrapping the form-fitting suits and pairing this oversized look with chunky trainers and a casual t-shirt. Bold colours are especially popular for this trend; block pinks, light blues and olive greens are sure to keep their reigning status in our stores in the following months. Textured jackets Designers and retailers are breathing new life into our jackets with fabrics that cater to our touch senses. Fashion forecasting predicts fringe detailings, particularly popular as an alternative addition to a leather jacket, will be a trendsetter for the new year. Soft wool,

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nylon, tweed, fleece, and faux leather offset with colourful patterns and sculptural shapes rose in popularity over previous years and continue to command the catwalk in designers’ 2022 collections. Texture is going nowhere.


LONDON RUNWAY

Cardigans for men In the not-too-cold for a coat but nottoo-hot for a t-shirt flux of British weather, cardigans offer a comfortable in-between, ranging from chunky nana knitwear to lightweight button-downs. Designers such as Dunhill, Jil Sander and Prada are incorporating cardigans into their 2022 menswear collections. This unisex piece of clothing was spotted on the runway assembled in a range of styles and colours such as pastel and earth tones, pieced together with collared shirts, loose sweatpants, converse and suits. We're excited to see more diverse adaptations of menswear fashion through the use of the humble cardigan in the foreseeable future. Ballet flats Ballet flats are back – but not as you know them. The practicality and ease of the slip-on ballet flat shoe has been worn for decades. Whether you don them for work, school, or to complete everyday chores, the ballet shoe is a trusted piece of shoe wear. However, recent years have seen a fall in demand for this style of shoe, replaced by slip-on trainers and boots. Now, designers are taking advantage of the dip in the market and are reinventing the humble

ballet flat. Simone Rocha released a collection of platform ballet flats, complete with criss-cross straps, buckle fastenings and a delicate bow embellishment at the toe of the shoe. Given our obsession with chunky footwear in 2021, we are bound to see alternating styles of ballet flats popping up in our high-street stores, following in Rocha’s footsteps (pun intended). Avant-Garde Fashion and art go hand-in-hand, full of innovative ideas and selfexpression. The merging of this pair is becoming a rising star in the fashion industry as we’re seeing unconventional designs, prints, and patterns take centre stage in fashion shows, exploring underlying satirical messages through each new design. Impressionist-style paintings are becoming increasingly popular as prints for t-shirts, dresses and trousers, alongside creative cutouts and architectural jewellery and accessories. Influenced by Japanese designers who brought Avant-Garde to the forefront of fashion culture, designers such as Barbara I Gongini continue to make a huge impact on the industry, redefining what we know as

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conventional fashion. These designs are likely to seep into 2022 as a new era of experimental fashion. Be on the lookout for surprising geometric shapes, bold prints and intricate patterns inspired by our favourite artistic paintings from around the world.

Fashion forecasting is a wonderful way of predicting next year's fashion obsessions, but we never really know what is going to take the fashion industry by storm next. Designers are constantly buzzing with new ideas, reinventing old ones, and have a way of surprising us in exciting and unconventional ways. The industry is continually changing and reviving and experimenting – who knows what will be on the horizon for the future of fashion. But we can’t wait to find out!

Images via Pexels and Unsplash


Chabs Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra

Enjoy part two of our coverage of the show! For part one, see our previous issue (Issue 64) Girls 4 Girls


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POST CODE


RASCAL CLOTHING

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Siblingz Fashion

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Tribes All

UEL Collection

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LONDON RUNWAY

Candice brings you gorgeous red pieces from fiery brands blazing the path towards sustainability and inclusivity!

Aries March 21 - April 20

Ethically made in the UK, Nancy Dee London provides pieces perfect for any environment or setting: office, home, or night out! A wardrobe essential, this V-neck wrap dress has full-length sleeves and a bodice, making any Aries look sultry and sophisticated (Eliza Vibrant Rouge Wrap)

Taurus April 21 - May 21

Ninety Percent shares 90% of their profits with charities and suppliers of their customers’ choosing! With a minimalist, timeless aesthetic, this contemporary label is both passionate about their craft and bettering the industry with each piece, which dedicated Tauruses will love! (Stretch Organic Cotton Rib Flare Cuff Midi Dress in Maple)

Gemini May 22- June 21

With a focus on breathing new life into “trash” and waste materials, Thinking Mu uses upcycled and recycled fabrics and materials in all of their collections. The active, youthful Gemini will love this free flowing, oversized short dress made with organic hemp and Tencel! (Teja Hemp Fresia Dress)

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LONDON RUNWAY

Cancer June 22- July 22 Mentioned multiple times in past YSH articles, Thought uses only ethically sourced materials and focuses on multipurpose, unisex pieces. Cancers will especially love the vintage look of this hand-painted blouse and skirt combo. (Janelle Organic Cotton Detachable Bow Printed Blouse and Janelle Tencel Blend Pleated Midi Skirt in Currant Red)

Leo July 23- August 21 Having been around for three decades, People Tree is a pioneer in sustainable fashion! They pride themselves on “stylish, innovative and affordable fashion while respecting people and the planet”. Not only will Leos love the trailblazing ethos of the brand, this floor length maxi dress will make them look and feel great! (Stacie Maxi Dress in Red)

Virgo August 22- September 23 Beulah London commits themselves to “fighting slavery through fashion”. Incorporating traditional craft techniques allows them to provide employment for every worker with every piece made. The elegant draping and high neckline of this floral dress suits the refined Virgo for any occasion, from a casual brunch to a summer wedding! (Cynthia Red Dallia)

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LONDON RUNWAY

Libra

September 24- October 23

Madia & Matilda creates one off, unique pieces from upcycled and sustainable fabrics leading to a less wasteful industry and world! Libras will love this romantic midi floral dress perfect for any season. (Philippa Dress in Floral)

Scorpio October 24- November 22 One cannot mention sustainable and ethical fashion without mentioning Stella McCartney! The silver diamond-cut chain and dark ruby colour of this bag will make it a favourite of any Scorpios. (Falabella Mini Shoulder Bag in Ruby)

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 A combination of contemporary and classical ethical designs, Beaumont Organic is all about being “creatively honest and clear about what the brand is and isn’t”. Ethically made in Portugal, this dress features an elasticated waist and side pockets, perfect for any adventurous Sagittarius needs! (Marissa Organic Cotton Dress in Clay)

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Capricorn December 23- January 20

Known for their responsibly-made dresses, every step of the process of any Boden piece is eco-friendly and ethical! The drapey jersey of this dress provides the needed comfort for a Capricorn’s busy schedule, but the feminine print and design adds that boost of stylish confidence to keep them powering on! (Effie Jersey Dress in Cherry Red/Ivory, Palm Petal)

Aquarius January 21 - February 19 AFF&JAM (Africa and Jamaica) provides pre-loved pieces that are recreated and upcycled to promote sustainability. With “wearable arts” as their concept, they showcase their journey through art, clothing, and identity. Aquarians will love the individuality of each hand painted piece. (Carol Shirt in Hot Coral)

Pisces February 20 - March 20

Peruvian Connection has been sharing and showcasing the time-honoured textile tradition of their skilled Andean artisans. The flowy design of these trousers will help a Pisces thrive, allowing them the freeing comfort to create and express. (Gabrielle Pants in Coral)

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. Images via their respective retailers

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FISHERWOMAN DIARY Hair Stylist: Patryk Kowalski

Wardrobe Stylist: Monika Grzegorczyk @m.grzegorczyk_fashionstylist Model: Jadzia Koc Makeup Artist: Teresa Mochocka @tmochocka_makeup Photographer: Kamila Błaszkiewicz @kamilablaszkiewicz_photo











BRIANNA’S POWER REDS IN NETFLIX'S GRACE AND FRANKIE With the release of four episodes of Season 7 on Netflix, stylist and writer Suhani Lotlikar couldn’t help but binge for the love of fashion. Grace and Frankie is an online sitcom featuring the story of two pairs of seventy-something-year-olds rediscovering and redefining their relationships. The social setting that includes their four children and a few supporting friends adding to the experiences of their lives is unique. The age demographic featured in the series is a fresh new take on streaming platform sitcoms. Certainly the costume in the series forms a very crucial part of each character’s lives. Costume designer Allyson Fanger surely did some Emmy Nomination for Outstanding Contemporary Costumes-worthy work with it. The wardrobes created for each character were trendsetting and

descriptive of their individual backstories. “You can not wear red, it’s ‘my’ power colour”: The writers of the Netflix sitcom narrated June Diane Raphael’s character Brianna Hanson with this dialogue. This merger of costume and creative writing established the grounds of Brianna’s lifestyle and habits. Her wardrobe throughout all seasons has been solid colours paired with creative cuts and bold lips. This choice has added to her charming aesthetic of minimalism. Her work wear in particular showcases a handful of musthaves in red, beige, black, white and grey. Her boss lady vibe is established with pop red jumpsuits, pant suit sets and dresses. In season 5 episode 3 ‘The Aide’, Brianna’s sanguine self is put to test during the period of financial crisis at her cosmetics company Say Grace. She lets her guard down and invites her mother back to the company as a

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consultant. Throughout the episode, we see her go through a wave of emotions involved in taking this decision dressed in a bold red jumpsuit that emphasizes her status of being in charge. The colour red is associated with many emotions such as love, anger, passion, and even luck in the fashion industry. The New York actress’s character is shown experiencing a lot of personal and professional evolution. From being the CEO of Say Grace in season 1 to proposing a long-term engagement to her boyfriend Barry, the choice of colour evidently set the mood for many scenes. Carrying a bright red can sometimes feel intimidating or too much. But Brianna used it to put forth a strong front at work where many underestimated her for her talents. The company was handed over to her by Grace, which leads her to think that many people around the office do not take her seriously. The choice of reds


LONDON RUNWAY provides her with confidence to deal with all the crisis at work. Brianna’s relationship with Grace is a complicated one as is of most mother-daughter duos. There is a fair play of power dynamics between them leading to a handful similarities such as sarcastic comebacks and practicality. Grace’s straight-forward personality is blatantly depicted with popped collars and crisp trousers. Softer touches have been added to her wardrobe with floral neck scarves. Her casual looks are elevated with luxurious soft fabrics and knits. When Brianna organizes a surprise birthday celebration for Grace in season 5, her pant suit look elevates her sturdy attitude towards the entire staff knowing about her real age and a major client trying to pull a play on the company. These traits of poise and leadership are seen trickled down in Brianna's work ethic. Her sister Mallory however goes through a contrasting path of experiences in the seven seasons. She is mostly seen wearing casual outfits and sporting a no-makeup look during the first couple of seasons. Her divorce with her barely-ever-seen husband leads her into taking a decision to get a job. This is where her freshly put together workwear wardrobe begins to shine on the screen. Further in the series, she has been seen acquiring a promotion which directly translated

into more high end workwear such as pant suits. When Mallory takes up this promotion at Trust Us Organics, it leads her to become Brianna’s supervisor. This change in the power dynamics between them is seen in her outfits too. Mallory arrives at the company office dressed in bold pantsuits. Brianna’s wardrobe seems to take a major turn from season 5 episode 13 when she awkwardly gets down on one knee to propose to Barry in a pink v-neck bodycon dress. In the latest season, she is seen scouting for a house to move in with her now fiancé. This advancement in their relationship

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might affect the number of times we will see her in the passionate reds. This season the viewers are expecting an advancement in Brianna’s work life. Alongside the print-deprived wardrobe of Brianna, Sol’s Hawaiian shirts too have created a whole vibe. His jolly and optimistic character is accurately painted in many colours such as orange, red and blue. When it comes to Sol’s wardrobe, costume designer Fanger said that it was all about comfort. These quirky shirts were mainly sourced from small boutiques in Santa Monica, Malibu, and Palm Springs. As a costume stylist who has previously styled for a few series streamed on an online platform, I believe that good costume design equals good production. Often costume is misunderstood to be a secondary part of films and series. But when realised for its potential, character outline and development are easier for the audience to connect with through costume. The visuals created with costume directly leave a memory with the viewers admiring and resonating with the character. Grace and Frankie’s age variant styling definitely became a good point of reference and relevance for many. Brianna’s bold colours and crisp cuts are surely something I would like to incorporate within my own workwear. You can read more of Suhani’s work on suhani17.wordpress.com and on Instagram by following @suhani_lotlikar .


Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered

What would you do with £1 million?

&

"I'd first pay some bills then fly my family to Philadelphia to spend time with my brother who I have not seen in 9 years & with the rest... Well... as a psychotherapist who sees too many young people attending therapy for anxiety issues, I'd invest in producing free bespoke psycho-educational funworkshops for children & young people to build resilience and understanding, enabling them to manager their life difficulties without feeling so overwhelmed." - Mandy Keene, psychotherapist

"BUYING A HOUSE TO RENT IT, OPENING A DANCE STUDIO AND TRAVELLING" - Noelia Dominguez Millan, model, musician, dancer, and personal trainer

"It upsets me to see homeless people on the streets and some make me cry as I give them money and wish I had the resources to get them off the streets. I'd use most of it for that and invest the rest in my grandchildren and children." - Ade Olagbaju, Accountant and Model

"Buy what is necessary, rest I will invest in real estate to make more millions" - Faizz Mir, model and actor

"EXPAND LONDON RUNWAY TO TOTAL WORLD DOMINATION!" - Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor

“I would pay off my parents’ mortgage. I would give some to charity. Fund the arts, in some way, especially at the moment and try and get theatre back a bit. And then I would go travelling probably, around the world. And then obviously buy a house and a car. And a dog. I think I’m running out, aren’t I?” – Ellie Gill, actress and model

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question


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BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT OLIVIA RUBIN BY RABI SULTAN


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