LFW RECAP . PERFORMATIVE ACTIVISM , CAMPING DESTINATIONS . MODEL TRAINING . FACE OF LR ROUND 1
CHROMANTICS . FASHION SHOW LIVE . BETHANY WLLLIAMS . QASIMI . AUROBOROS . 7 STUNNING EDITORIALS
ISSUE 63 27TH JUNE 2021
THE ROCK AND ROLL ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley, Karishma Alreja, Barbara Mascarenhas Staff Writers: Cicilia Brognoli, Jessica Carvalho, Katie Abson, Suhani Lotlikar Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Anne Wilkinson, House of iKons, Ram Eagle, Portsmouth Royal Maritime Club, Vivienne Monique, Maddy, Isabell, Aiyana, Lillia, Darcey, Takeisha, Stefani, Emily, Hayden, An Tran, Brooke, Iliria, Willow, Anna, Austin, Gabriel, Julia, Inez, Jaida, Evgeniya Klimkova, Milana Makhmutova, Stotskaya Amalia, Nazarova Ulyana, Nayatov Pavel, Krugova Sophia, Sheesheva Adelina, Bondarenko Yesenia, Peklenkova Elena, Latyshev Igor, Lyubov Belyavtseva, Tatyana Pitelina, Alexandra Mayorova, Anna Titova, Evgeniya Yaroslavtseva, Svetlana Skvorodina, Ekaterina Troshina, Irina Razetdinova, Alena S.Chu, Olik Ponomareva, Diego Flores, Daniel Claudin, Boyka Georgieva, Kris Platas, Sofia Agorou, Alba Gomez, Paula Burbat, Olga Mastronardi, Elisa May, Olga Golovco, Ghawam Kouchaki, Elena Heuzé, Aconda Williams, Kenyai O’Neal, Felipe, Azure, King Abbot, Bella Celeste, Pietro Recchia, Daniela Pires, Ama Jones, Julia Kristina, Latta Pathak, Szabo Sihag, Bade Fuwa Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Staff Illustrator Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
© 2021, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2020 ambassadors are Hannah Lewis and Orpheus Sloma
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CONTENTS
23
8
VISUALS
WORDS
Breath of Italy (Editorial)
8
London Fashion Week Recap
4
From Black to White (Cover Editorial)
23
Get in Loser, We're Stopping Performative Activism
21
New Faces
33
11 Reasons to Take a Camping Trip 31 in South West England
Portfolio Piece
39
Mesmerised (Editorial)
41
Dance (Editorial)
47
Be Unique Be You
53
Chromantics
58
Collection by Evgenya Klimkova (Editorial)
62
Signs That You Need Model Training
The Face of London Runway 2021: 83 The Story So Far Your Style Horoscope The Big Question
Style (Conscious) Guide: Rock & Roll 71 Punk Rock Princess (Editorial)
72
Fashion Show Live
84
Elisa (Editorial)
106
Qasimi, Bethany Williams, Auroboros
114
51
102 122
s ' r o t i d E r e t t le Here we are in our June issue, and many of us are not having the June that we hoped for. While the last restrictions continue, some activities are still limited, and that includes – of course – fashion events. Safety is the most important thing, and it’s a credit to our industry that we’ve been able to adapt and evolve in order to keep fashion going. What would have been the traditional London Fashion Week Mens slot this month has been taken instead by a mix of digital and in-person content featuring menswear, womenswear, and genderless collections. We continue to see progress in the right direction when it comes to diversity and inclusion in mainstream fashion, and we can only hope this continues even when we do eventually see live events running as
they did in the past. We’ve been busy here at London Runway HQ, working on a number of events we’ve got coming up for you over the summer. The first of these is the Face of London Runway, which is now entering the semi-final stage – though I won’t say too much on that here, as there’s a full article later in the issue explaining where we’re at so far. We’ve also got a recap of all the Fashion Week content you can still stream and catch up on, plus galleries from inperson events and the digital lookbooks that were featured on the official schedule. Elsewhere in this rock and roll themed issue, look for punk editorials, slick style guides, and a good dose of the rock aesthetic that you may have been craving since Eurovision. It feels like we’re ready to get rocking out again,
and with celebrities and fashion designers playing with the gender rules all over the place, why wouldn’t we be calling back to the likes of Bowie, Bolan, and their contemporaries? We’ve also got some top tips for aspiring models this issue, as well as all the reasons to remain in the UK for a staycation if you’re worried about travel lists and having to cancel a much-needed holiday. Plus, don’t miss our piece on performative activism, which might give you some inspiration if you want to make a difference but don’t know how to do more than show your support on social media. We’ll see you next month for our Originality issue, featuring content from up and coming designers at GFW as well as plenty of original editorials and articles!
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON FASHION WEEK
RECAP
For this June edition of Fashion Week, three of our writers bring you the lowdown on each of the performances and presentations you can still watch on the official London Fashion Week website. We watch them all so you don’t have to!
SATURDAY LONDON FASHION WEEK PRESENTED BY CLEARPAY OFFICIAL OPENING: EVERYTHING IS TEMPORARY, A PERFORMANCE BY SAKEEMA PENG CROOK LFW organisers once again chose a trans activist and artist to open the proceedings, showing us that gender in fashion is no longer even a construct for what would normally have been London Fashion Week Mens. This is an interpretive dance and textile piece set to spoken word, but there are no subtitles for those who need audio assistance. DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: MAXIME IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY The short video concentrates more on the making of glass, and the stage of a glass factory, than showing us the clothes. A single male model sports blocky, panelled looks, including bags in the shape of the brand’s logo.
DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: CHLOE BAINES IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
This genderfluid collection is made from up-cycled tents, dead-stock denim and jewellery recycled from tent pegs. There’s a DIY, rave kind of feel to the video, introducing our first platform shoe of the season (surely a foregone conclusion after Eurovision). Stay for the ball at the end. DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: AUROBOROS IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY This Biomimicry Digital ready-to-wear collection is showcased digitally, but on a real model. The Institute of Digital Fashion got involved to allow fans throughout London to immerse themselves in the Augmented Reality Clothing through billboards and flyposters in real space. You can click right through from the video presentation to try on any of the clothes (but just know this: they only exist in digital space, rather than reality, and you’ll expect to pay upwards of a mouth-watering $1000 to “wear” them on your photographs). DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: AZURA LOVISA IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY This video brings the dance party to
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you, since you may have been missing it for a while. The clothes are showcased on the dancers themselves, who range in both gender and race. A couple of minutes in, there’s more of a formal introduction from an MC. DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: NOIRGAZE IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY Accessories take centre stage in this presentation, inspired by the films of Wong Kar Wai. It’s a short but romantic watch. DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY DAY 1 If you watched last February’s shows, you’ll be familiar with the format of these Toni&Guy clips. Designers Chloe Baines, Azura Lovisa, and NoirGaze talk about their collections from a behind the scenes perspective. Hair specialists Efi Davies, Phillip Haug, and Daniele de Angelis take us through the process of creating the hair looks. BETHANY WILLIAMS: ALL OUR STORIES Spoken word poetry accompanies this collection video, all about motherhood, families, and heritage. Groups of children of various ages as well as models posing together all wear the clothes, keeping it moving in roller skates and even walking the dog.
LONDON RUNWAY
STAXX JEWELLERY 2021: REQUISITE I ATELIER I HALCYON I HEROES A jewellery collection in five drops allows the brand to create different stories in each one. The looks are presented briefly on a group of models, set to a pulsing soundtrack. VANISH, IN PARTNERSHIP WITH BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL, PRESENTS GENERATION REWEAR You have to head to an Amazon page in order to watch this film, so don’t be alarmed by the lack of video on the schedule page. Which, handily, allows you to buy Vanish products right on the same page. Not that we’re against sustainability in any way, as our readers will know – but shoppers are already jaded enough by greenwashing and the switch to sustainability purely for profit. LYPH: ROLLING THUNDER Cowboys and thunder are the backdrop to this collection, interspersed with film clips and layered over with spoken word. Expect streetwear and rock and roll makeup. QASIMI: BETWEEN ASHES AND ROSES A sun-filled catwalk twists around a building, giving life to brightlycoloured clothing that reflects the tones of flowers scattered in a pond. Pink moves to red, to green, to blue, to orange. It’s a more traditional presentation but really shows the clothes well.
SUNDAY DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: SHEK LEUNG IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY Run by Samson Shek Yen Leung, SHEK LEUNG’s debut collection Gentle Living features organic pieces with oversized fits, layered pieces of fabrics, and collar necklines. The contemplative film paired with the heart-pulling instrumental perfectly showcases the innovative, unique designs.
DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: MAYYAAGAYEVA IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GU Film: "Burning Wonderland" SS22 of luxury unisex-wear. Drawing its inspiration on the human-nature relationship and multi-functionality, the film showcases MAYYAACAYEVA’s muted colour collection of strongly silhouetted and ruched pieces. DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: BÉHEN IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY BÉHEN’s "LOVE BEGETS LOVE" showcases the Resort 2022 womenswear and menswear collection. The bright tropical colours of orange, green, and blue draw inspiration from Portugal and are paired with intricate patterns and 70s silhouettes.
University of Westminster were compiled and showcased in a series of fashion films. Showcasing the challenges students faced, the three themes explored were Soft Focus, Modernist, and Utopia/Dystopia. PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI Resort 2022: Flouncy and ruffled tops and dresses defined this awe-inspiring collection that took center stage! The brand’s signature punk and vintage hybrid was showcased in full splendor with every piece.
MONDAY BEN OSBORN IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI & GUY
DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: PAOLO CARZANA IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
An ASMR experience alongside a set of detailed bodily movements embracing the concept of life and growth.
The Another World 2021 menswear collection by Paolo Carzana draws inspiration from Welsh fairy mythologies. His self-imagined space of comfort is materialised through the hand-sewn pieces made with materials and dyes gathered by Paolo himself.
DJOKIC IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI & GUY
DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY DAY 2
PDISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: PARC IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
The Session Team at TONI&GUY was headed by Elle Page and Sam Elliot, creating the hairstyles for Shek Leung’s and Mayya Agayeva’s presentation
It captured the true spirit of Life in London, a collection of and for the people. The white room added focus to the presentation of the collection.
IPF INNOVATOR SW ENGLAND “FIBRESHED: RECONNECTING FASHION TO FARMING”
DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: INGRID KRAFTCHENKO IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
In attempts to bridge the disconnect between the fashion industry and the diversity and abundance of natural fibres farmed in the UK, Emma Jane Hague and filmmaker Hatty Bell created this thought-provoking short film to showcase the local fibre farmers and processors in South West England.
A dark and disturbing thriller. The layering of the clips created a broken visual with emphasis on the brands identity.
UNIVERSITY OF WESTMINSTER BA FASHION DESIGN
With reference to the times of the Pandemic, the comfort of a homely space and of the clothes helped me relax and take a pause. The repetition of the clip represented the reality of times with a hint of mundanity (prints of bleach and blankets).
The graduate collections of the BA Fashion Design Graduates at the
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A fishy chaos in what looked like the backstage of a show. The grey framing used to maintain the colour palette was a dull addition.
DISCOVERYLAB PRESENTS: ABIGAIL AJOBI IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
LONDON RUNWAY
DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY DAY 3
NICHOLAS DALEY: RETURN TO SLYGO FILM
The backstage TONI & GUY team stated that wet yet clean is the hair trend to look for. For Abigail’s show working on the various homely looks of Afro hair was fun.
It was like an invitation to a Black household hosting a party. The jazz music that played throughout the film was a memerising touch.
PUBLISHED BY SS22
BEN SHERMAN X TEAM GB PRESENT THE TOKYO 2020 TEAM UNIFORM SHOT BY RANKIN
A constrained use of nature as inspiration reminded me of the ways in which the humans use nature for their benefit.
This was an advertorial showcase of Ben Sherman merchandise used in the Tokyo Olympic games of 2020.
AHLUWALIA – PARTS OF ME Use of eccentric colours ,prints and patterns was joyful to watch. The relatability and connection among the cast was a good representation of current times. PER GOTESSON.COM LAUNCH The spirit of denim brings an aspect of hope to the monochromatic life of people. The collaborative approach of the platform is very well showcased in the launch of their website. EVENING STANDARD PRESENTS LONDON RISING: THE FUTURE OF THE HIGH STREET A panel of industry experts discussed their perspectives on the present and future of high street fashion brands. With references to brand campaigns of Amazon and Selfridges, they gave the listeners an insight of the renewed meaning of in-store shopping experience. ROBYN LYNCH SUPPORTED BY COLUMBIA It was a non-seasonal collection showcasing a mix of beautiful textures. The young and trendy addition of bucket hats and hooded sweatshirts were not a new flavour. JORDANLUCA SPRING SUMMER 2022 JordanLuca’s showcase pushed me to take a step back and pause to actually focus on the details that matter. There was a sense of suspense that kept me looking into the details of the frame.
Saturday reviews by Rhiannon D'Averc Sunday reviews by Candice Wu Monday reviews by Suhani Lotlikar
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SLATTY
SLAT ATTY BATE NATE H Bate Nate H nicknamed eclectic prince, a heartthrob rapper from the United Kingdom churns out extraordinary releases, and his exclusive song made with avant-garde hip hop tunes is the best treatment to the ears. He creates music that he refers to as “self-discovery” in order to achieve peace of mind amongst the clamor of the large metropolis. ‘SLATTY’ is a standout single that mixes the seductive sound of swinging saxophones with his enthusiastic rap flow to spread love in the air. His voice is light as a feather, similarly emotive, authentic-sounding, and melodically appealing. The voice is fairly clean-cut – upfront and personable to emphasize the lyricism’s authenticity and personal touch.
@BATENATEH
@BATENATEHYSL
Prince (SLIME) "made history" with his previous song 1DAY, based on a black relationships and the struggles within which was filmed in Tate Modern.
BATE NATE H
BREATH OF ITALY
Fashion Designer: Roma Roling @roma_roling Photographer - Lyubov Belyavtseva @lyubovbelyavtseva Assistant: Anna Titova @ph._any Retoucher: Sofia Lugovaya @lugovaya.retouch Wardrobe Stylist: Tatyana Pitelina @style.by.tati Hair Stylist: Svetlana Skvorodina @svetaskvo100 Models: Ekaterina Isaeva @isaeva_ek; Julia Litovchenko @j.litov Makeup Artist: Anna Skorikova @anna.skorikova Wardrobe Credits: All clothing Roma Roling, except: socks, tights, leggings - Calzedonia @calzedonia
LONDON RUNWAY
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LONDON RUNWAY
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GET IN LOSER, WE’RE STOPPING PERFORMATIVE ACTIVISM Jessica Carvalho explores the silent growth of performative activism amidst people and brands alike, and its detrimental impact on the fight for change.
A year has passed since we all witnessed a police officer kneel on the neck of a man. The clip, short in all forms but its impact, sparked worldwide outrage and shone a light on the desperate change that needs to happen. The murder of George Floyd was a tipping point for race relations in the United States, spilling to every other nation in a matter of days and raising awareness to the second pandemic we are all living through: police brutality. Protests ensued in the wake of the
tragedy, and quickly, the Black Lives Matter (BLM) movement was at the forefront of social commentary. Voices chanted tirelessly for a world that would simply let us breathe. Given the current and then state of the world, support for the grieving community of Minneapolis poured in physically, and digitally, too – something that was bound to occur in a society that was slowed to a halt and confined to their homes. Greatness came from the flood of activist media, too, all the way from the screens to the streets - but it was a double-edged sword. The demand for change was a catalyst to its very own inhibition, giving rise to a tidal wave of performative activism. The phrase, seemingly innocent in appearance, is a phenomenon riding on
the coattails of genuine allyship to BLM and other vital movements, referring to shallow activism hoping to capitalise for clout rather than showing authentic support. The toughest part of performative activism? One of your friends has probably already done it. The 2nd of June 2020 was a culmination of this detrimental activism, Instagram being the platform of choice for a multitude of vague, honestly dystopian, black squares. #BlackOutTuesday began as an inoffensive initiative to raise awareness to the BLM movement and the murders of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor, and Ahmaud Arbery, with over 28 million squares posted on the social media site. However, it proved harmful to the movement altogether. The influx of caption-less squares (save the very
All images via Unsplash
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uninformative hashtag) drowned out vital posts raising awareness, promoting petitions and donation points – all of which actually contribute to the progression of the BLM movement towards lasting change. The infuriation only increases with the introduction of statistics; the hashtag contained almost 15 million more posts than the signatures in the Justice for George Floyd petition at the time. It is initially hard to judge anyone who took part in the initiative – its intentions were somewhat positive, but looking at the grand scheme of things gets you halfway there. When the most fervent response to a Black man being murdered by police on video is a black square with a three-word hashtag whilst there are a multitude of critical conversations to have, fights to fight, and cages to rattle - the impact of performative allyship is truly seen. It leaves you wondering, too, how the most humane response – the only response some people can muster to someone losing their life before their eyes - is a black square. Sure, the intention was there, and deeper research into the trend would have provided you with some form of information, but that was the problem: it was seen as just a trend. A simple post to show that one acknowledges and stands for the right thing (genuinely or not), and they can go about their day. But George Floyd cannot go about his day. Breonna Taylor can’t shut her
phone off and rest in her own home. Ahmaud Arbery can’t close the app and go for a run. The most common response I have received when the topic of #BlackOutTuesday comes up within my social circles is its potential for detachability and forgettability, two factors that do no favours for such a delicate movement. But, in someone’s eyes it gets the job done, and any guilt they may have been brought to feel by the hard-hitting truth is curbed; and technically, there isn’t anything inherently political about the post. However, there is no way to tiptoe around politics with race relations as they have been so intertwined throughout history, and to be able to bask in the glory of activism without putting in any effort is a privilege. To be able to avoid politics – when they impact almost every aspect of our lives – is a privilege. As a Black woman, performative activism has also made it difficult to weed out those who sincerely care about these causes, and those who would rather pretend to care and not be held accountable, rather than simply educating themselves. Interestingly, brands tend to mirror human behaviour, with an array of black squares also bleeding into the business sector alongside somewhat believable captions stating the need for
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change. Some were true to their word; Nike shone a light on the strife of the States at the time and introduced Black people to spaces they’d never been included in. But most fell short on their promise, the black squares nothing but a momentary blip in their Instagram feeds a year on (if they’re still there). Consumerism becomes trickier with politics, as it takes some digging to figure out which brands are worth it and the ones that are not, and with the rebirth of ‘90s and Y2K fashion – both of which are heavily influenced by Black culture and trends of the time – there is an added sting to performative activism, as these brands do care just enough to appropriate our culture, but not for our lives. The roadmap away from performative activism isn’t as blatant as it may look; partaking in peaceful protests is great, and just as important, but educating oneself is the best way forward. Read the tough stories and accounts, have the difficult conversations and step away from the corporations that simply do not care. Ultimately, don’t forget that the simplest and most effective form of allyship is lending an ear to Black voices and being there to support us when things get overwhelming. So, get in let’s go and try to change the world. You can find more of Jessica’s work on her Instagram page @whatjesstypes.
FROM
TO
Photographer - Mrityunjoy (MJ) Mitra Model: Julia Kristina Makeup Artist: Latta Pathak Wardrobe Credits: Szabo Sihag
BLACK
WHITE
LONDON RUNWAY
11 REASONS TO TAKE A CAMPING TRIP IN SOUTH WEST ENGLAND When I, Suhani Lotlikar, moved to Bournemouth from Mumbai, I brought along my love for the sea with a hint of curiosity to explore. I took the opportunity of off-term time to explore the south western coast of England with my partner. And as the restrictions on travel ease this summer, I would like to share 11 reasons why you should take a camping trip in south west England.
CRAVING FOR CREAM TEAS From the mountain-top cafe at St. Michael’s Mount to the cosy village cafe at the foot of Boscastle, the British speciality of cream tea and scones can be found in all locations here. At the local cafes, they are served with a side of fresh clotted cream and homemade jams. For those of you who prefer the taste of savoury, plain and cheese scones are an absolute delight. The table spread at each one of the local cafes is adorned with a unique collection of vintage ceramics that make for the perfect Instagrammable shot.
HOMELY CAMPING SPOTS To truly experience the enchanting outdoors of south west England, you must pitch a tent on one of the many camping sites here. The Chelsfield Farm Holiday Park is the perfect place to experience widespread green land with a touch of southern hospitality. Fresh eggs at the farm shop, a wandering stroll among a herd trying to spot which one is Shaun the Sheep, and an iced glass of whiskey with the owners are some things to look forward to. Just as you begin to connect with nature, treat
yourself with a getaway at the Tolcarne Campsite. I recommend you to travel to this campsite in daylight as the roads are narrow and discreet. After pitching your tent or parking your caravan, you will notice the single network bar on your phone. Take this opportunity to dine with your loved ones on the slope-side tables at the site.
BOAT RIDE TO ST. MICHAEL’S MOUNT When you arrive at the coast, you will see an eye-catching visual of the tidal island that holds the grand home of the Aubyn family. There are three landing points to get a boat to the island which can be accessed depending on the tidal time. You can find the information for booking a boat ride and accessibility on the St. Michael Mount’s website and on the many information boards located at the coast itself. The wind in your hair during the 10-minute boat ride will surely prepare you for the hike up the cobbled path that holds the Giant’s heart.
MESMERIZING BLUE WATERS AND GOLDEN SANDS It is no surprise that the southern coast of England holds some of the most spellbinding stretches of beaches. There are many beaches here to choose from during the heavy footfall of tourists in the summer. Porthcurno is one of my favourites to feel the calm sun on my skin. Another one of the most relaxing beaches is Perranporth. You can simply enjoy the sand between your toes with a vodka ice or go windsurfing in the well-guarded waters of the beach.
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LONDON RUNWAY
COUNTRY ROADS WITH PICTURESQUE VIEWS
BREAK IN YOUR WALKING BOOTS
Driving through the country roads of south west England is an experience like no other. The single lane roads topped with side paths help keep the flow of vehicles and local tractors going. At many locations, you will see the shorter trees cut in a certain shape to perfectly fit the height of heavy vehicles. All travellers must beware and be conscious of animals from the dense trees crossing paths during all times of the day and night.
Long treks up and down hills are not my first choice of holiday activities. However, the traditional cobbled paths and railed steps lined with benches and halt spots at every location adds a sense of comfort for the tourists. I recommend you to take along a pair of walking boots and beach slippers to cater to the various activities one can do during this trip. The summer breeze will have you craving for a lick of ice cream topped with a flake as you walk through the fascinating lanes of historic villages.
COVID-SAFE VACATION SPOTS Just as the restrictions on travel in England begin to ease, camping is one of the best ways to ensure that we continue to stay safe while slowly returning to our normal lives. With properly marked areas allotted to each camping group, resting in your tents and caravans is a better way to continue maintaining social distance than choosing to stay at a hotel.
HISTORIC IMPORTANCE OF CORNWALL Every site maintained by trusts such as English Heritage and the National Trust display the historic importance of the locations through gift shops, information centres and boards. A tiny store at the start of the fishing village of Port Isaac holds the history of the land. The Tintagel Castle and Merlin’s Cave known for the legend of King Arthur and Knights of the Round Table is a grand representation of British history.
THE FIRST AND THE LAST HOUSE You must make the trip to Land’s End to experience the most beautiful sunset you will ever see. The iconic pole that marks the distance of this southernmost point of land in England from New York and John O’Groats will make a perfect picture to mark your visit.
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THE DONKEY SANCTUARY To finish the trip with a touch of love, I would recommend stopping at the Donkey Sanctuary at Sidmouth. You will be lucky if the rain decides to be a no-show as the donkeys do not appreciate the drizzle on their cute little heads and the paths inside the sanctuary could get mucky. Grab some donkey pins for your kids on your way out for a small donation to help the upkeep of the sanctuary.
TO MAKE UNFORGETTABLE MEMORIES Having stayed indoors for over a year, we have all missed the whiff of the outdoors. As we begin to see some sunny days, it is time to take a vacation. Plan a trip with your family and loved ones to make some fresh and sweet memories to remember for years to come. With a newly realised value of travelling, let’s take this opportunity to reconnect with nature. The endless beauty of south west England is waiting to be explored by you.
You can read more of Suhani’s work on suhani17.wordpress.com and on Instagram by following @suhani_lotlikar
Daniela wears: Zara top styled with Oasis skirt, Arezzo shoes and Gucci sunglasses in Regent Street, London
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACES: DANIELA Name: Daniela Pires de Oliveira Age: 33 Location: London Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? This is my first time modeling! Where are you from originally? I'm from Brazil Do you have an unusual talent or party trick?
Dancing forró (One of the Brazilian dances). What would surprise people to know about you? I'm passionate about theology, history and philosophy! What are your modelling ambitions? To be an inspiration to people that it is never too late to reach a goal or make a dream come true! PS: When I was younger, my beauty and physical characteristics were not attractive at that time.
Photographer: PIETRO RECCHIA @pietro_recchia Model: Daniela Pires @danielapdoliveira
Daniela wears: H&M grey jumper styled with a blue long Anthropologie skirt and silver Bershka in Bond Street, London
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACES: BELLA Name: Bella Celeste Age: 29 Location: Australia -Queensland, Gold Coast Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 8 years Where are you from originally? Melbourne, Australia Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I'm an exceptionally good whistler.
I'm also a MUA, singer, dancer, musician and actress. What would surprise people to know about you? I'm a huge Seinfeld and Simpsons nerd!! I have the characters in pop toys and even the Simpsons house in lego! What are your modelling ambitions? I would love to work fulltime - I want to travel with my work, I love all forms of modelling, runway, creative, photographic. I'll do it all, as long as I can.
Photographer: King Abbot @kingabbotfilms Makeup Artist: Bella Celeste @bellaceleste__artistry Model: Bella Celeste @thebellaceleste
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACES: AMA Name: Ama Jones Age: 29 Location: London Agency: Maverick Models How long have you been modelling for? 9 months Where are you from originally? Manchester! I am mixed British, Irish & Ghanaian.
party trick? I can drink a shot with no hands. What would surprise people to know about you? That I’m 29 haha! What are your modelling ambitions? To remain humble and to inspire, that’s simply it!A nice-to-have would be to walk for London and New York Fashion Week, oh and a Vogue cover! Why not?…
Do you have an unusual talent or
Photographer: PIETRO RECCHIA @pietro_recchia Model: Ama Jones @ama.a.jones Ama is posing in trendy Shoreditch wearing handmade Aztec shirt with Zara denim midi skirt. Layered with Zara denim jacket and Marks & Spencer’s Mac. Styled with Dr Martens vegan leather boots, Amerii rattan crossbody bag and Major Wear fedora hat.
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LONDON RUNWAY
GHAWAM KOUCHAKI Elena wears: Patterned Resort Shirt by H&M
I've been doing photography off and on for the past twenty years, a lot of the starts and stops were due to some financial hardships, but I decided last year that I would pursue photography as a career. It's hard to try and communicate with someone, especially with a model or actor on what I want, if I could do it well I wouldn't have become an artist, but I think it's thanks to the positive experiences I've had with the various models I've worked with that I've become more confident in communicating what I want and also collaborating with the model to show me something I would have never thought of before.
I'm forever grateful to them and the growth they've imbued me as an artist. One of my biggest influences in photography is Mark Peckmezian and Christopher Doyle, they show a fearlessness that I attempt to emulate when faced with the chaos of a shoot and stepping outside of the confines of what I imagined the shoot would be.
Aconda wears: Sweater, scarf, and pants by American Eagle
Wardrobe Stylist/Model/Makeup Artist: Felipe @blacknoise_15 Wardrobe Stylist/Model/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Aconda Williams @acondawilliams Photographer: Ghawam Kouchaki @ghawam.kouchaki Model: Elena Heuzé at Commercial Talent Agency @elenaheuze Wardrobe Stylist/Model/Fashion Designer/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Azure at Ashton Models @azureg Wardrobe Stylist/Model/Fashion Designer/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Kenyai O'Neal @kenyaioneal
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Felipe wears: Coat by Allsaints; Turtleneck and pants by H&M
portfolio piece
Azure wears: Checkered Top and Pants by Forever 21; Jacket by Whispering Smith
MESMERISEDDDD Assistants: Anna Titova @ph._any, Ekaterina Troshina @troshina.ea Retoucher: Irina Razetdinova @irina__razetdinova Photographer/Retoucher: Lyubov Belyavtseva @lyubovbelyavtseva Wardrobe Stylist: Tatyana Pitelina @style.by.tati Hair Stylist: Svetlana Skvorodina @svetaskvo100 Makeup Artist: Evgeniya Yaroslavtseva @glam_by_jennyy Model: Alexandra Mayorova @amay_2904
Alexandra wears: Dress - GE+CONCEPT @ge_concept; Collar - PO RUSSKI @porusski_store; Socks - Calzedonia @calzedonia
Alexandra wears: Cape - GE+CONCEPT @ge_concept; Shirt - POLUNINA @polunina.russia; Earrings - AIVA accessories @aiva_accessories
Alexandra wears: Suit - GE+CONCEPT @ge_concept; Beret - LN-family @lnfashion; Earrings - AIVA accessories @aiva_accessories; Shoes - model's own
Alexandra wears: Cape - GE+CONCEPT @ge_concept; Shirt - POLUNINA @polunina.russia; Leggings - POLUNINA @polunina.russia; Earrings - AIVA accessories @aiva_accessories; Shoes - model's own
Alexandra wears: Dress - GE+CONCEPT @ge_concept; Collar - PO RUSSKI @porusski_store; Socks - Calzedonia @calzedonia
Alexandra wears: Suit - GE+CONCEPT @ge_concept; Beret - LN-family @lnfashion; Earrings - AIVA accessories @aiva_accessories; Shoes - model's own
DANCE Model: Olik Ponomareva @Olik.ponomareva Photographer: Alena S.Chu @alena.s_photo Hair: Lina Kuzmina @lina_maker_hair, Marina Pschenichnikova @marina_hairdo
LONDON RUNWAY
SIGNS THAT YOU NEED MODEL TRAINING Bade Fuwa takes us through the telltale signs that your model skills aren’t up to scratch. “Thank you for coming” might be the most terrible thing you’ve heard as a model, and your dreams of being the next Gigi Hadid, Naomi Campbell, or gracing the cover of a magazine might have just ended, leaving you feeling inept. In current times, modeling as a career has become a much-vaunted choice with thousands of hopefuls chasing this dream. But the days when you could depend on your luck to get spotted are ended - or perhaps the chances of that happening are now onein-a-million. Currently, defining what makes a good model is more difficult than it sounds. First, you should know which type of modeling suits you, then build and maintain that look like a practical 24/7 job. Secondly, you’ve got to be confident and learn how to cope with rejection. Thirdly, if you're a catwalk model, you've got to learn how to walk and learn how to perform in front of a camera. Lastly, you've got to build your book, your portfolio, and build it to the look that you want to portray as a model.
But all these only work if you know where the fault is... so, take a long breath and ask yourself. Why do I want to be a model? "To my family I’m going to be rich, according to my friends I’ll be famous" might not be the right answer. Dealing with rejection once or twice could let you reflect on your errors, but there has to be an inner passion for it as a profession. This will allow you to learn how to not only stand out amongst the crowd but also build your career. So, why don’t we dive into five basic signs that show you need training?
1 - YOU LACK EXPERIENCE IN FRONT OF A CAMERA As a model today, your experience in front of a camera says a lot about how you’ll get your next gig, as no photographer wants to shoot a model who can’t communicate with the lens. So, working towards perfecting your confidence in front of a camera is a must. Also, having little or no poses in your arsenal would also need some work. So, talk to yourself, have a plan, practice, and build that confidence in front of a camera.
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Images via Canva
2 - YOU KNOW LITTLE OR NOTHING ABOUT WALKING If you decide to become a runway model, then learning how to walk on the catwalk with different poses is a must for you. Well, unless you’re Tom Cruise - then just keep running. 3 - YOU CAN’T MANAGE STRESS As a model, you would definitely work in some tedious environments and conditions. So, coping with stress is something you’ll need to work on and develop. It might take some time but it's more than a necessity; trust me. 4 - YOU DON’T KNOW HOW TO TAKE GOOD PICTURES OF YOURSELF Phone photography skills nowadays are part of the job. You would get many assignments in the comfort of your home, so knowing how to advertise these products would be beneficial to your finances. As a model, you should learn new skills to make you a generalist. Styling, makeup, and photography might also add to your arsenal.
5 - YOU DON’T HAVE A SKINCARE ROUTINE Skin! Skin! Skin! There’s nothing more beautiful than naturally glowing skin. This makes retouching easier for the photographer - and guess what? A beautiful natural skin would build your confidence in whatever journey you want to take as a model. So, look at the brighter side. Practice makes perfect. Work on your flaws, and we’ll see you soon on our front cover!
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LONDON RUNWAY
BE UNIQUE BE YOU: THE BEST SUSTAINABLE KNITWEAR FOR 2021 British Designer Anne Wilkinson is the founder of the brand Be Unique Be You and she specializes in custom-made knitwears made from sustainable materials. One of her brand's goals is to have a single solution for the fast fashion dilemma that pretty much everyone can agree on, which is putting secondhand first. Wilkinson can create fresh and incredible new pieces whether that’s from some vintage and preloved clothes, or dead stock sitting under decades of dust, or some cutout fabrics.
Designer: Anne Wilkinson Be Unique Be You @be_uniquebeyou Creative Director: House of iKons @house_of_ikons_official Photographer: Ram Eagle Photoworks @ram.eagle Models: Lillia; Darcey; Vivienne Monique; Takeisha; Stefani; Emily; Hayden; Aiyana; An Tran; Brooke; Isabell; Iliria; Willow; Maddy; Anna; Austin; Gabriel; Julia; Inez; Jaida
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CHROMANTICS Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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EV
KOVA LIM
IYA GEN K
Collection by
Models: Latyshev Igor @igor_latyshev777; Milana Makhmutova @Milanam2016; Nazarova Ulyana @iuliana.nazarova2012; Bondarenko Yesenia @eseniya__bond; Stotskaya Amalia @amalia_stotskaya; Peklenkova Elena @Yulia_peklenkova; Sheesheva Adelina @adel_ka777; Krugova Sophia @_sophie_etoile; Nayatov Pavel panchester2009 - all at D'laMod agency Photographer: B&Olga Photographer @olgaskyphoto Fashion Designer: Evgeniya Klimkova @evgeniya_klimkova
STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE
Manimekala Nilla blouse midnight star £195.00
ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Cicilia Brognoli
Ragyard Snake Patch Orange Overdye Sweatshirt £75.00
Beautiful Earth Boutique Silver music note ring £24.95
Motherofpearl Wendy Black Trousers £295.00
Emp Tongue Cut Out Patch £4.99
Emp Smiley Kids T-Shirt £18.99
Notonthehighstreet 'Take Your Pick' Guitar Plectrum Set £33.00 Farfetch Textured Drawstring Waist Track Pants £490.00
Emp Claw Ring £13.99
Stellamccartney Skates Badges Denim Trousers £84.00
Stellamccartney Multicolour Stars Skinny Denim Trousers £79.00
Drmartens Devon Heart Leather Platform Boots £189.00
Drmartens Toddler 1460 Reptile Emboss Ankle Boots £50.00
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Drmartens Toddler 1460 Keith Haring Leather Boots £65.00
Drmartens 1461 For Pride Smooth Leather Eather Shoes £119.00
Lighting Designer: Daniel Claudin @danielclaudin Makeup Artist: Kris Platas @krisplatas Photographer/Retoucher: Diego Flores @iamdiegophoto Hair Stylist: Sofia Agorou @psycho_sofi Assistant: Paula Burbat @paulaburbat Stylist/Wardrobe Stylist: Boyka Georgieva @boykageorgieva Model: Alba Gomez @albagmonjas
LONDON RUNWAY
Chief Editor Rhiannon D’Averc takes us through what’s been going on behind the scenes with this year’s Face of London Runway competition, and what’s next! If you’ve been following us on social media or reading our recent issues, you’ll know that we’re already full steam ahead on the Face of London Runway 2021! Our favourite event of the year is well underway, and there’s a lot happening behind the scenes that you might not know about. First, we took entries through a form on our website. That stage is now closed, so we’re not accepting any further entrants this year! If you’re disappointed and would love the chance to get further in your modelling career with your face on our cover, then make sure to sign up to our email newsletter via our website. You’ll get updates when we launch the 2022 competition! When we’d taken all of our entries, we asked everyone to submit a short video telling us who they are, to introduce you to them for the first time. We selected some of these to feature in brief clips on our Instagram and Facebook pages – go ahead and check them out whenever you get a chance! We have one clip for the menswear entrants and one for the womenswear entrants, so don’t miss both.
THE FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2021:
The Story So Far After taking a careful look through all of the entries, we selected only some of them to come through for a Zoom interview round. This consisted of groups of up to ten models, all live together at the same time. They were judged by myself and our competition partner Maxine Griffiths, a model coach and our long-time friend! You can check her out on @the_model_workshops to get her insights into the competition, too.
Each of the models was asked first to chat with us, to tell us all about themselves, and to answer a few questions to test their knowledge and speaking ability. We met some incredibly interesting people – from MMA fighters to Latin dancers, and from classical pianists to radio personalities! Alongside them were accountants, dentists, and foster carers, showing us that models can really come from all walks of life. Speaking of walks – the second half of each Zoom call was dedicated to just that. Maxine put each of them through their paces with a few walks up and down in front of the camera, and dispensed some of her timeless wisdom to keep everyone going until the next round. The selection process is extremely difficult each year, and we always think we’d love to put every single person through. But we have to make those tough choices, and make them we did. From almost 250 applicants, we’ve managed to cut the entries down to less than 50 for the next stage.
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What is the next stage? Well, you’ll read all about it in our next issue! We’ll be meeting all of our competitors in person for the first time, to see how they do in front of a real camera. Photoshoot challenges, group and individual work, catwalk practice, and more – it’s all going to happen next month ahead of our July issue. When we speak again, we’ll be presenting you with behind the scenes images from that event. More importantly… we’ll also be sharing our top ten! The top ten models will battle it out for the crown, lobbying for your votes on social media. We’ll be asking you to vote on Instagram and on Facebook, so don’t miss out on the chance to make your voice heard! That’s all coming from the 27th July, so stay tuned – and don’t forget to wish our competitors luck. With an extremely competitive field this year, as always, they’re going to need it…
DONNA MARINA
FASHION SHOW LIVE Photographs by Fil Mazzarino
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GIANCO HANDMADE
LONDON RUNWAY
HIP CURVE
HOUSE OF ARISTOCRATS
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LA DAMA
SAYNA LONDON
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VERYL DESIGNS
VERYL_DESIGNS
LONDON RUNWAY
BOHEMIANNOVA
CAROLINE BRUCE
FASHION SHOW LIVE CONTINUED Photographs by Mrityunjoy Mitra
EROSA
VERYL_DESIGNS
LONDON RUNWAY
PLAYGROUND
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MILLSY LONDON
STATEMENT PIECES
TUTUSSIE LONDON
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GUNDOG
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KAREN GOLD
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With London’s ever-changing, inconsistent weather, Candice brings you edgy jackets designed to bring out those inner rockstars of the signs!
Aries March 21 - April 20
Phix Clothing’s Red Tailored Blazer features gold piping, black contrast lapels and Phixembossed black buttons. From a premium wool blend, Aries will stun in this single breasted silhouette.
Taurus April 21 - May 21
The Twill Cropped Shacket with Fur Collar by ASOS Design is in a beautiful burnt orangey brown. Tauruses will fall in love with the understated hue, and the fur collar will seduce their inner divas.
Gemini May 22- June 21
The Black Vegan Leather Belted Gilet by Glassworks London is the staple leather jacket for the energy-filled Geminis. The large accent buttons, sleeveless design, and thick material provides the perfect durability for a Gemini rocking out!
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LONDON RUNWAY
Cancer June 22- July 22
YSL’s Long Belted Jacket in Wool Jersey will draw that rocker side out from Cancers. The adjustable waist belt with contrasting buckle adds that feminine detail, known of the signs, to an otherwise utilitarian silhouette.
Leo July 23- August 21
Glassworks London’s Mustard and Brown leopard Print Blazer suits no other than the fabulous Leo! The bold print will be perfectly accommodated by the exuberant personalities of these standout signs.
Virgo August 22- September 23 In their signature colour, Golden Bear’s forest green Leather Bomber Jacket is perfect for the practical Virgo who wants to dip their conservative natures in the rock and roll fashion scene.
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LONDON RUNWAY
Libra
September 24- October 23
Weekday’s Tara Oversized Cord Jacket in baby blue perfectly matches Libra's inner rockstar. The sign’s affinity for the soft pastel hues brings about a “Rock ‘n’ Roll chic” aesthetic.
Scorpio
October 24- November 22
YSL’s Satin Bomber Jacket is that lighter alternative to the Scorpio’s leather jacket staple! The elasticized hem provides a more tailored fit.
Sagittarius
November 23- December 22
For the simple, comfort-loving Sagittarius, Reformation’s Madison Relaxed Jean Jacket is the perfect addition. A staple to any closet, the relaxed fit and worn denim look accentuates the sign’s venturesome, carefree natures.
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Capricorn December 23- January 20
Capricorns will love YSL’s Long U-Neck Jacket in Wool Jersey in navy. The U neck and gold-tone button detailing will draw out the occasionally high-strung Capricorns’ iconic selves.
Aquarius January 21 - February 19
Phix Clothing’s Black and Gold Striped Biker provides that comfort and flair for these ambitious and fashion forward signs.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
The Fitted Cropped Floral Jacquard Suit Jacket by & Other Stories pairs will with the imagination of a Pisces rocking out to their own tune. Traversing their fantasylands with them, the floral cropped design provides a delicate, imaginative base for inspiration.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
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ELISA
Photographer: Olga Mastronardi @olga.mastronardi Model: Elisa May @elisa_may_ Makeup Artist: Olga Golovco @olga_muah_milan Elisa wears: Dress - I Saw it First; Jacket - Only; Bag - Yves Saint Laurent; Shoes - Converse
Elisa wears: Jacket - Only; Jeans - New Look Tall; Bag - Jacquemus
Elisa wears: Dress - NaaNaa; Bag - Yves Saint Laurent; Bracelet - Calvin Klein
Elisa wears: Dress - I Saw it First; Jacket - Only; Bag - Yves Saint Laurent; Shoes - Converse
Elisa wears: Jacket - Only; T-shirt - Asos Design; Jeans - New Look Tall; Belt - Louis Vuitton; Bag - Jacquemus; Shoes - Even&Odd
Elisa wears: Dress - NaaNaa; Shoes - Call It Spring; Bag - Yves Saint Laurent; Bracelet - Calvin Klein
Elisa wears: Dress - I Saw it First; Bag - Yves Saint Laurent
Elisa wears: Jacket - Only; T-shirt - Asos Design; Jeans - New Look Tall; Belt - Louis Vuitton; Bag - Jacquemus
QASIMI Images via Qasimi
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BETHANY WILLIAMS Images via Bethany Williams
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AUROBOROS Images via Auroboros
Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
Who is your favourite designer?
&
“I wish I could afford the clothes, but I’d say Saint Laurent. Especially for me because I’m small and weedy, so clothes that really fit me!” – Benedict Cork, singer-songwriter
"Alexander McQueen, his avant garde and grotesque aesthetic is one to remember forever" - Suhani Lotlikar, writer
"VALENTINO." - Laetitia Merlonetti, writer and model
“CHRISTIAN DIOR”
- Millie Scrace - Senior Demographic Administrator at NHS Digital
"Vivienne Westwood - classic pieces that will never go outdated" - Amber Johnson, Publishing Assistant
"Balmain" - Celine R. Chapuis, model
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
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BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT GFW BY FIL MAZZARINO