Visit Uzbekistan Issue 34

EDITOR'S

It has been five years since the inception of Visit Uzbekistan magazine. What am I most proud of and grateful for as we grow through this project? I can honestly say that this has been an opportunity to connect to the most incredible people, both in Uzbekistan and around the world.

We are proud to have built a Visit Uzbekistan community – we count as friends of the magazine people from the diplomatic corps, expats, travellers and locals united in the same feeling. A feeling of love and appreciation for the beautiful Uzbek culture.

In this edition, we share inspiring collaborations with several of these friends. On page 24, Diana Lavrenteva, a vlogger who recently relocated to Uzbekistan, shares her recommendations on spending 24 hours in Tashkent. Nadira Abdurakhmanova from diplomatic circles offers her tips on how to be trendy wearing traditional fabrics (p.28) and art critic Munis Nur continues her expert stories on Uzbek architecture (p.20).

We are also proud of this issue’s stunning cover, prepared in collaboration with Moel Bosh, an international fashion line from Uzbekistan. Our team was lucky to be the first to do a photoshoot in Eternal City, a new tourist complex in Samarkand (p.12).

There are many exciting articles, from first hand stories to reviews and recommendations to inspire you to visit and make your stay in Uzbekistan more enjoyable. Each page, each photo and each design have been created with love. Because we all do what we love and love what we do. Isn’t that the best way to live our lives on this planet?

Editor-in-chief Dinara Dultaeva

Editor Megan Eaves

Project Manager

Sabina Odinaeva

Graphic Designer

Genessa Wright Sales & Distribution

Madina Abdukadirova

PR Department Ekaterina Ustinenko

Contributors

Munis Nur, Diana Lavrenteva, Madina Ruzmatova, Khayot Abdullaeva, Durdona Shavkatova, Nadira Khidoyatova, Odina Ulugbekjanova, Megan Eaves, Irina Papina, Umida Qodirova, Malika Fattakhova, Sabina Odinaeva, Anna Martusevich, Fatima Abdieva, Karomat Gaffarova, Durdona Azizova

Photography

Feruz Rustamov, Andrey Arakelyan, Mukhiddin A Lee, Natalya Dumko, Sunnat Sodikov, Oyjon Khayrullaeva, Marat Nadjibaev, Timur Bailepesov, Mamur Khalimov, Diana Lavrenteva, Madina Azam, Munis Nur, Aziza Khamidova, Irina Papina, Mirshod Shomsidinov, Anastasia Ivanova, Igor Fedorov

Visit Uzbekistan magazine 2022, No. 34

Official partner

The Ministry of Tourism and Cultural Heritage Dinara Media Relations PC

Dinara&Co. Trademark Tel.: +998 (93) 500 55 65 www.dinara.co • info@dinara.co

The magazine is registered by Press and Information Agency of Uzbekistan on 12.05.2017. Registration number No. 0915 | ISSN 2181-9254

Printed by “Print.uz” 28/1, Koshkoprik street, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Order No. 1351

All rights reserved © Dinara&Co. © Dinara Dultaeva

@dultaeva@dultaeva

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Tashkent

Travelling in Uzbekistan: What to know for your trip

01

What health and safety regulations do I need to follow?

When meeting or gathering with other people, it is recommended to avoid direct contact and keep a minimum distance for health and safety.

04

What do I need to know about travelling on public transport (any new requirements or changes in schedules/tickets)?

Passengers are recommended to wear masks while on transportation. Trains and flights are operating with more limited timetables.

Can I visit entertainment complexes, such as amusement parks, attractions, museums and theatres?

All entertainment complexes are open throughout the country. Sanitary conditions in these places comply with national requirements, including temperature controls and social distancing measures.

03

Do I have to wear a mask?

As of 1 March 2022, Uzbekistan removed its mask mandate. However, travellers are still recommended to wear masks in:

→ public transport;

→ large shopping centres;

→ educational institutions;

→ state and non-state institutions;

→ mosques, theatres, cinemas, museums, palaces of culture and other places where people gather in closed spaces.

05

What precautions should be taken while entering Uzbekistan?

Due to COVID-19 precautions, all public items are treated with antiseptic agents several times a day. When entering a hotel or other public space, your temperature is taken and an antiseptic is provided. In public dining areas, chairs and tables are located a safe distance apart.

The official website of the Ministry of Tourism and Cultural Heritage has detailed information about the COVID-19 programme for visitors: www.uzbekistan.travel or contact the One-Stop Call Center at 1173.

More information about flights: www.uzairways.uz

More information about trains: www.railways.uz

The information provided here was current at the time of publication and is subject to change.

Frequently asked questions about the ‘Safe Travel GUARANTEED’ programme

Through the Eyes of Diplomats

Four ambassadors on why they love Uzbekistan

Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of Romania to Uzbekistan

“On 6 October 2022, Romania and Uzbekistan celebrate 27 years of diplomatic relations. Our relations are built on solid foundations and, together, we reach new heights. Indeed, I was privileged to be the first Ambassador here to climb a 4,000-metre peak: Hazrat Sultan (4,083m) in Kashkadarya. This was part of the 160th anniversary of Romanian diplomacy and the 31st anniversary of Uzbek independence. I express my gratitude to the people of Uzbekistan for our fruitful cooperation.”

Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the United Kingdom to Uzbekistan

“Five things I’ll always remember about Uzbekistan:

1. The powerful stories of avant-garde artists at the worldclass Savitsky Museum in Nukus.

2. Our Tashkent Ramblers’ Group, which began with colleagues in my garden during Covid-19 and developed into hikes in Uzbekistan’s magnificent wild landscapes.

3. Making homemade ice cream using rich Uzbek cream and flavoursome soft fruits. Sour cherry was my favourite!

4. The splendid Silk Road architecture and spectacular music, dance and costumes at the 2019 Sharq Taronalari Festival in Samarkand.

5. The craftsmanship and creativity of the master artisans at the Yodgorlik Silk Factory in Margilan and the ceramicists of Rishtan.”

KONSTANTIN OBOLENSKY

Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of Switzerland to Uzbekistan

“30 years ago, Uzbekistan and Switzerland established diplomatic relations, and I am proud to serve as Ambassador here. When I arrived, I was overwhelmed by Uzbekistan’s beauty and diversity, and its generous and hospitable people.

Switzerland and Uzbekistan share many similarities: dramatic landscapes, landlocked geography and multicultural history among them. We also share global challenges, such as climate change, which our strong partnership continues to tackle while driving sustainable development. I hope visitors enjoy Uzbekistan’s beauty and help maintain it for generations to come.”

Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of Israel to Uzbekistan

“Like many Israelis, I am an avid traveller and I look forward to more Israelis discovering the wonders of Uzbekistan: its splendid food, colourful markets and the magic of the Silk Road. As we celebrate 30 years of diplomatic relations, we hope more Uzbeks will visit Israel, too. Our ‘Land of Milk and Honey’ is a special place with rich history, beautiful views, lavish food and smiling people. I wish us many more years of strong, prosperous and friendly relations and many travel adventures!”

There are some 40 foreign embassies in Uzbekistan’s capital, Tashkent, and Visit Uzbekistan often cooperates with them. Here, the Ambassadors of the United Kingdom, Romania, Israel and Switzerland kindly share their impressions of Uzbekistan.

Eternal City

Central asia's largest tourist complex – Eternal City in Samarkand – celebrated its grand opening in August. High-ranking local and foreign officials, diplomats, academics and cultural dignitaries attended the ceremony, with President Shavkat Mirziyoyev officiating.

The launch took place in the more than 17-hectare Eternal City, the centrepiece of the complex covering a total area of over 260 hectares (2.6 sq km).

More than 700 top international and local artists, choreographers, producers and sound, light and costume designers joined together to work on the large-scale show at the venue.

The festive event took place in the Eternal City, a historical and ethnographic park located within the Silk Road Samarkand complex. An 18-metre-high stage weighing 300 tonnes was built on the bank of the Rowing Canal. Despite its scale, the stage can rotate 360 degrees in one minute. The set for the show is a prototype of Mirzo Ulugbek's medieval observatory. Until now, only a small part of the creator’s total idea – the historical monument located in Samarkand –was accessible to tourists. However, the show’s creative team did an in-depth study of the creator’s real drawings and sketches and constructed scenery with an observatory that closely evokes Ulugbek’s original.

British musician Sami Yusuf– known for performing Central Asian songs, wrote the show’s music together with a creative team from Uzbekistan. The programme features the composer's original material, including two works of poetry by Alisher Navoi, and the rest is instrumental music, which Yusuf wrote for the first time in his life.

Eternal City is home to art galleries and workshops of artisans from across Uzbekistan, with more than 100 masters currently in residence.

“This complex is interesting because it was handmade by the craftspeople, artists, artisans, skilful woodworkers and ceramicists who live there, which makes it a showcase of the best that our people

can do,” said Bobur Ismoilov, creator and curator of the Eternal City.

Pedestrian and bicycle paths, roads, canals, bridges, parks, the biggest convention centre in Central Asia, recreational and wellness areas and medical facilities are designed to provide an unprecedented experience for both leisure and business tourists.

The impressive scale of the complex showcases Samarkand’s role as a rising tourism capital in Central Asia, further strengthened by the opening of the city’s new international airport terminal earlier this year. ◆

01. On the streets of the Eternal City, 02. Rowing Canal, 03 Show program on the opening day of Silk Road Samarkand, 04. Speech by the President of Uzbekistan on the opening day of the complex, 05 Embroidery suzane 06 British musician Sami Yusuf, 07. Bobur Ismoilov, creator and curator of the Eternal City, 08 Ceramic craftsman Narzullo Abdullayev's works

FIVE STARS FOR Silk Road Samarkand

Samarkand dazzles visitors with its ancient architecture, cosy guest houses, colourful bazaars and fine crafts. Combine all of these with the latest technology, adding five stars and the most prominent venue for large-scale events in Central Asia and you’ll get a recipe almost as delicious as the city’s beloved plov.

Silk Road Samarkand is a new resort complex featuring eight world-class hotels, beautiful public spaces, a park, leisure areas, concept restaurants, cafes and bars, as well as an international convention centre and a unique historical and ethnographic park called Eternal City. It is located in the western part of Samarkand along the rowing canal.

The complex draws travellers with its comfortable hotel accommodation, but visitors soon discover a wealth of experiences on offer without leaving the complex. You’ll want to allow at least a couple of days to fully explore the full complex. The resort is equally well set up for a leisurely day or any business agenda, with a wellness spa, gastronomic offerings and the opportunity to spend a few hours learning ceramics or chatting over a pot of aromatic tea.

Near the Congress Center, the city’s firstever local five-star hotel, the Samarkand Regency Amir Temur, is the first and only member of the Leading Hotels of the World association and the centre of the hotel complex. Next door is the colourful

and conceptual four-star Savitsky Plaza, followed by the world-famous Silk Road by Minyoun (five stars) and the Stars of Ulugbek, Lia! by Minyoun (four stars).

An entirely new offering for Samarkand is Wellness Park Hotels, a set of four hotels that accommodate wellness and health tourists, ranging from those undergoing rehabilitation to cosmetic and detox treatments. The Eco Village completes the resort cluster with a cottage village concept.

In the Eternal City, visitors can check out the workshops of artisans who are always happy to talk about their crafts. The streets here are crowded with vendors and shops offering everything from Uzbek fabrics to traditional sweets, foods and souvenirs, and you’re bound to encounter street musicians, artists, dancers, poets and folk characters. In the market squares, there are often performances by actors, wrestlers, tightrope walkers, magicians and acrobats.

◆

Address: Rowing Canal, Samarkand Website: www.srs-tc.com Instagram: @srs_tc

Clockwise from top left: Silk Road Samarkand tourist Complex from a bird's-eye view, The Eternal City from a bird's-eye view, Part of the Silk Road Samarkand tourist complex called the Eternal City, Five-star Samarkand Regency Amir Temur Hotel, Visit by First Ladies of Uzbekistan and Turkiye, Ziroat Mirziyoyeva and Emine Erdogan, The Eternal City - center for 100 artisans

Five Hidden Gems to Visit in Uzbekistan

The more you travel around Uzbekistan, the more you realise how rich the country is in culture, history, art and extraordinary natural wonders. Uzbekistan is a country where you can travel alone, spend holidays with family or explore along with a group. It is a corner of the world where you instantly feel at home. After all, Uzbekistan has history, meaning and natural power. Here we've made a selection of five lesser-known places you should visit as soon as you get the chance.

SAVITSKY STATE MUSEUM

MINGBULAK DEPRESSION STONE FOREST

LAKE AIDARKUL MAIDANAK ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY DERBENT IRON GATE

Ancient Stone Forest

NAVOI REGION

Millions of years B.C. – this epic, ancient time scale measures the age of a small place called the Mingbulak Depression near the village of Jarakuduk in the centre of the Kyzylkum Desert. The site is so named because it sits at the desert’s lowest point: 12 m below sea level. Here, a natural “stone forest” formed of hundreds of ancient tree-trunk fragments, some up to four m high. The rocks, which cover an area of 30 sq km, are the fossilised remains of an ancient forest from the Cretaceous period. After numerous studies by geology and palaeontology experts, the site has taken its rightful place on the list of Uzbekistan’s most important ancient sites. Fragments from the forest can be seen in the State Geological Museum, the Navoi Regional Museum of History and Regional Ethnography, and the historical museums of Zarafshan and Kyzylkum.

Summit to the Stars

Maidanak Astronomical Observatory is part of the Kitab High Altitude Observatory complex, located in the mountains of the same name near the town of Kitab. The observatory covers about 32 hectares and is home to several modern astronomical observing instruments, including a 1.5m AZT-22 reflecting telescope and the 1m Carl Zeiss-Jena telescope, which take images of deep space. The plateau has become popular with tourists looking for beautiful scenery and a clear night sky. The observatory is only open on a special basis, but it is worth trying to set up an appointment or visiting close to the mountain’s summit to see the kind of night sky that will win your heart.

Louvre of Central Asia

Considered the real treasury of Uzbek fine art, the Savitsky State Museum’s collections number around 100,000 unique objects, relics and Turkestan and Russian modernist paintings from the last century. The founder of the museum, Igor Vitalievich Savitsky, first went to Karakalpakstan in 1950 and from the first day, he fell madly in love with this fantastic land. He expressed his love for the nature of Karakalpakstan, its history, culture and people in the collection he assembled for the State Museum. Why is the museum nicknamed the “second Louvre”? Because its collection is the best in Central Asia and contains the second largest collection of Russian avant-garde art. The museum also features magnificent paintings by Ural Tansykbaev, Nikolai Karakhan, Hovhannes Tevtevosyan, Alexander Volkov and others. Each work by these artists has its own magic that is captivating from the moment you see it.

Sea in the Sands

Fans of water recreation should head to Lake Aidarkul, a large artificial lake in the northeastern part of Uzbekistan. The 4000 sq km Aidar-Arnasay lake system includes three saline lakes, including Aidarkul, as well as Arnasai and Tuzkan. Aidarkul is sometimes called the “sea in the sands” for its sandy beaches and salty water located deep in the Kyzylkum Desert, far away from settlements and highways. There are rest houses, campgrounds and yurtstays along the shore, making for atmospheric swimming and overnight stays. Aidarkul is also a favourite spot for fishing.

Derbent Iron Gate

Near Baysun in southeast Uzbekistan is the Derbent Gorge and its many attractions. At the entrance of the gorge, there is the Zindonak Grotto where prisoners were kept. Further along, a narrow road leads to the sanctuary of Huzhamoi-ota. According to legend, a boiling spring filled with fish appeared from the place where the eponymous saint's staff struck. Near a cave in the mountains is his tomb, now a place of worship. Nearby, there is a picturesque “pigeon” canyon where thousands of wild pigeons nest. Historians believe that this is where the locals held Alexander the Great's troops captive for a long time. Finally, there is the famous Iron Gate where, in the Middle Ages, customs duties were collected from caravans travelling along the Silk Road. Even today, Derbent is considered the gateway to the Surkhandarya region.

Visa-Free Uzbekistan

The Visa-Free Countries for Uzbekistan have been allowed different periods of exceptions such as 90-day stay, 60 days, and 30-day stay.

90 days

Georgia, Kazakhstan, Moldova, Russia, Armenia, Ukraine, Azerbaijan, Belarus

60 days

Kyrgyzstan only

30 days

Australian Union, Republic of Austria, Republic of Argentina, Bosnia and Herzegovina, The Vatican, Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, Hungary, The State of Brunei-Darussalam, State of Israel, The Republic of Greece, Ireland, Iceland, The Italian Republic, Canada, The Principality of Andorra, The Principality of Liechtenstein, The Principality of Monaco, The Kingdom of Belgium, The Kingdom of Denmark, The Kingdom of Spain, Kingdom of the Netherlands, The Kingdom of Norway, Kingdom of Sweden, The Republic of Latvia and others. For more information, visit www. uzbekistan.travel

not more than 7 days

People's Republic of China, including Hong Kong Special Administrative Region of the PRC

about e-visa

When passing the State Border of the Republic of Uzbekistan and while staying in the country, foreign citizen must present a valid travel document (passport) and electronic visa in printed or electronic form.

In order to apply for an e-visa, a foreign citizen sends an application to the official e-visa portal of the Republic of Uzbekistan at www.e-viza.gov.uz

For consideration of the application for an e-visa, a consular fee of $20 is collected via integrated into the portal international payment systems. In this case, the applicant does not have to be a cardholder. The amount of the consular fee is charged only for consideration of the application for an e-visa and is not refundable. A foreign citizen may be denied an e-visa in cases established by the legislation of the Republic of Uzbekistan. In this case, the corresponding refusal notice is sent to the e-mail address of the foreign citizen.

SOVIET

MODER n IST a RCHITECTURE THROUGH THE PRISM OF TaSHKEnT

Tashkent is an amazing city that attracts tourists and scholars alike with its diverse architecture. The city synthesises several layers of architectural styles from different periods of history. Soviet style – otherwise called ‘seismic modernism’ – is attracting more and more interest from researchers all over the world.

the 1970s Tashkent had a population of 1.5 million and was the fourth largest city in the USSR, after Moscow, Leningrad (now St Petersburg) and Kyiv. It was also the largest city in Central Asia. Tashkent helped build the entire Soviet Union, contributing more than 20 design institutes and construction factories.

Several factors influenced the emergence of modernist architecture in Tashkent. The first was a mighty earthquake in 1966 that completely destroyed the old, traditional Central Asian buildings and left thousands of people homeless. The second factor was the very ideology and creative orientation of the Soviet architecture of that period: “national in form, communist in content.” The Soviet modernisation of the east, with the help of local architectural traditions, formed the basis of the architectural style of Tashkent Modernism.

The birth of modernist architecture in Tashkent began with the Palace of Arts or Panorama Cinema, built in 1964 by a group of young architects, and completed under the direction of S. M. Sutyagin. The building itself is a combination of polyhedral cylindrical and two-storey rectangular volumes. The walls were made of semi-circular concrete panels in the shape of egg-shell halves, which gave the building earthquake resistance.

One of the city's earliest modernist buildings is the Golubiye Kupola (Blue Domes) cafe, built in 1970 on the park boulevard of the same name by the architect V. I. Muratov. Apart from the domes (an expression of the national form), the deep, open terrace created a traditional method of air conditioning the space and also offered a view of the fountain. Today, the terrace is fully glazed.

Also in 1970, architects E. G. Rozanov and V. N. Shestopalov built the building that now houses the Museum of the History of Uzbekistan (formerly the Lenin Museum). Of particular interest is the patterned sun lattice, which refers to the image of a panjara (patterned window lattice) scaled several times over.

Later, in 1974, this technique of abstracting from the traditional ornamented grid was applied to the façade of the Hotel Uzbekistan by architects I. A. Merport, L. I. Ershov and V. S. Roshupkin. The architecture of the hotel is a good example of a combination of European and Oriental styles.

The Central Exhibition Hall of the Academy of Arts of Uzbekistan was constructed from 1972 to 1974 according to the design of architects F. Tursunov and R. Khairutdinov. The façades of the exhibition hall are stylised as peshtak (a traditional arched portal). On the folded lobes that form the corrugations, you can see an ornament made of cotton on a background of blue glazed ceramics.

The Tashkent Circus building can also be considered one of the symbols of Soviet modernist architecture. Designed in 1976 by architects G. M. Alexandrovich and G. Masyagin and constructed by engineers S. Berkovich and R. Muftakhov, the building resembles an image of a flying saucer – a fine reference to the Soviet advances in space and technology that gave rise to the fashion for modernism.

Another example of modernist dome architecture in Tashkent is the Chorsu Bazaar, with its single large and seven small domes designed by V. Azimov and S. Adylov. Chorsu’s unique, ‘townlike’ design is created by an alternation of covered, open and semiopen spaces with a complex network of galleries, viewing areas, staircases and passages between them.

Visit Uzbekistan always tries to make colourful and meaningful covers every issue. After all, Uzbekistan is a land rich in culture, unique works of art and traditions.

The shoot for the cover of the 34th issue featured Uzbek models Robiya Nabieva and Asaloy Abdukhalik-Zade wearing gorgeous gowns from the Moel Bosh – first typical central Asian fashion combined with new trends. The shoot was held at the Eternal City - historical and ethnographic park located inside the Samarkand Silk Road complex. Visit Uzbekistan was among the first to hold a photo shoot at this location, inspired by its deep history and rich architecture. The photos were taken by the fantastic photographer, Feruz Rustamov, who has been actively collaborating with the magazine for several years.

Through this photo shoot, we wanted to convey the unbreakable connection between modernity and the rich heritage of Uzbekistan. And we sincerely hope that we did it well.

24 HOURS IN

TASHKENT

with Diana Lavrenteva

Over the past three years, YouTuber and lifestyle influencer Diana Lavrenteva has lived in five different countries on three continents. She recently relocated to Tashkent, and here, she rounds up some of her favourite spots in the Uzbek capital.

Tashkent is a new city for me. I've been living here only six months so far, but I like living here more and more every day. Tashkent is a compact, very green city with the most friendly people I have ever met.

I like to get to know a new city not through classic landmarks but rather through the culture, everyday life and people, through my camera and aesthetics. That's why I invite you to take a walk with me through my favourite places in Tashkent.

I suggest starting the morning with yoga in the magical Seoul Park (western gate to Babur Park). It's an authentic place with beautiful nature. It's like stepping into a portal and being transported away from the hustle and bustle to a place where the mind is connected to the body and harmony comes easily.

After yoga, stop for a delicious and beautiful breakfast at the Breadly at Felicita. If it's not too hot, you can sit outside and enjoy the beautiful street and watch passers-by go about their business.

You can grab a coffee to go from Breadly and then turn the corner to Mahmud Tarabi Street, to Viva Maria, a delicious handmade Belgian chocolate shop. They offer tasters so you can sample everything. The chocolates will be wrapped in beautiful wrapping that you can use as a gift for your friends or just to take home. They also offer some of the tastiest ice cream in Tashkent.

Afterwards, head to Chorsu Bazaar where you should definitely try on a traditional chapan (robe/coat) made of natural fabrics, such as silk, cotton or adras. Also, you can find beautiful ceramic tableware with traditional Uzbek patterns. You can pick up the main elements of a tea ceremony: the choynak (teapot) and piyola (tea bowls). The tea tradition is an important component of Uzbek hospitality. Tea is poured into the piyola for guests - they always pour a little to make sure that they always get a fresh drink, which is a demonstration of care and respect.

After the bazaar, you can go for a walk in the Ecopark and relax. I like this park because it has an area with different activities and there is a part of the park with tall trees where you can sit among the greenery right on the ground, take shelter from the heat and relax as if you were in a real forest.

Shashleek Restaurant in the Ecopark is the place where there is insanely delicious lavash and kebabs! It is where I broke my eightyear vegetarian lifestyle and started eating meat again. Uzbekistan makes an impact.

Human House is an authentic house that hosts various lectures, events and activities. A creative house with an aesthetic. Be sure to check it out while you’re here.

One of the most romantic spots in Tashkent is the rooftop dining at the Hyatt Regency Tashkent. Every Friday, there is live music overlooking the lights of the city and food made by the restaurant’s Italian chef. It's the place to definitively and irrevocably leave your heart in this wonderful and colourful city!

FOLLOW DIANA: YouTube - youtube.com/c/DIANALAVRENTEVA1/ Instagram - @dianalav_ Website - dianalavrenteva.com

Clockwise from top left: While traveling around Uzbekistan, Another shopping tour at Chorsu Bazaar, In the store of Uzbek chapans, Nadira in a bekasam chapan

Recently, nadira has been organising shopping tours in Chorsu Bazaar. She picks up Uzbek chapans (overcoats) for her guests and offers advice about how to wear and style them. It all started with her immense love for Uzbek fabrics and traditions.

“This is the period when we consciously choose our fabrics for all occasions. And with fabrics, we are returning to our traditional styles and shapes,” she says. “Proof of this is my unique project, which has gained popularity in a short time! Not many people went to Chorsu Bazaar to dress up before that. Many people have written me to say that I inspired them to a new trend of wearing chapans in everyday life. And by the way, interest in Uzbek chapans has not just been among locals, but also with visitors. In the short period of my project's existence, I’ve had guests from 13 countries interested in chapans.”

The blogger and stylist advocates both conscious consumption and conscious fashion. Many people may think that traditional Uzbek fabrics are very bright and colourful and are only to be worn on holidays, while everyone wears Western styles and synthetic fabrics. Through her social media posts, Nadira is instilling a love of Uzbek clothing and presenting it in a modern way.

“Trends are fast-fashion; they are fleeting,” says Nadira. “For me, it will always be the clothes that suit me and are appropriate. I'm all for personal style – it's much more interesting. If you find your own recognisable style, then I can safely call you wise.”

“For me personally, there are no restrictions on

Uzbek outfits. I can wear all our fabrics both to a feast and

an ordinary day!"

For several years now, Nadira has placed a strong emphasis on the chapan. For her, it is the staple of an Uzbek wardrobe, and she consistently shows how comfortable and beautiful it is to wear a chapan in everyday life.

“I wear chapans to sporting events and I wear them to fashion shows,” she says. “That's the range of my going out! I love bekasam (striped, semi-silk material) chapans – they are distinctive and suit absolutely everyone! Chapans are sometimes considered more of a ‘masculine’ piece of clothing, and we’ve broken that stereotype on our tours! You can buy them wherever you like, but I prefer the heart of the old town in Chorsu Bazaar. I love the energy of that place – the people and the opportunity to bargain.”

For everyday wear, Nadira suggests clothing made of Uzbek fabrics in slightly muted colours. Fabrics that are more vibrant, like khan atlas and alo bakhmal, are for going out, she says.

“For me personally, there are no restrictions on wearing Uzbek outfits. I can wear all our fabrics both to a feast and on an ordinary day! We have the most unique fabrics, which the whole world appreciates. They are made according to ancient technologies, preserving all their value, and most importantly, their organicity. These fabrics are an escape from the hot weather and are comfortable to wear.” ◆

For tips and inspiration, follow Nadira on Instagram @nadi_uz.

LOOKS: NADIRA SHARES

LOOKS THAT HER

The Tashkent International Biennale of Contemporary Art has been held every two years with active state support since 2001. It is an open platform for cultural interchange in the field of visual arts, an introduction to the contemporary, creative potential of different places and a forum to discuss current challenges within contemporary art.

The 9th Tashkent International Biennale will be held from 24 to 28 October 2022 This year’s event has a very important purpose: to support new ideas and promising trends that affect the entire region. One of the pressing problems of the contemporary art process is the role of the artist in society, as well as the mixing of traditions and global trends in the development of contemporary art.

The theme for the 9th Tashkent International Biennale of Contemporary Art is “Artist and Society: Concepts of the art of the future”.

Sukhrob Kurbanov, Uzbekistan’s leading art historian and exhibition curator for the Biennale, said:

“I would like to note that, today the problem of the interconnection of artists and society has no unequivocal solution. At every historical stage of development,

9th Tashkent Biennale of Contemporary Art

The Tashkent International Biennale of Contemporary Art has been held every two years with active state support since 2001. It is an open platform for cultural interchange in the field of visual arts, an introduction to the contemporary, creative potential of different places and a forum to discuss current challenges within contemporary art.

art has performed a number of ideological and educational functions. Trends in artistic development today require the artist to respond sensitively to what is in fashion in order to gain popularity, both in the internet space and in the real world.

An artist's popularity depends on public opinion, favourable critical response and the size of their following. Some artists aim to achieve popularity by attracting attention to their work in any way possible. The internet is overflowing with visual information.

The public is spoiled, confused and unable to distinguish quality work from plagiarism and conjecture.”

Works submitted for the Biennale must correspond to one of two main themes: modern art (painting, graphics, sculpture) or contemporary art (installations, video and photo art, conceptual art), with a focus on ‘newness’.

For more information or to register, email biennale.uzbekistan@gmail.com or follow on Instagram @thetashkent_biennaleofart.

THE MERCHANT HOUSE OF Fayzulla Khodjaev

House museums offer unique opportunities to dive into the real, daily life of an Uzbek artist, poet, or another notable figure. To see where they worked, created and lived while also learning about the beautiful, traditional architecture of Uzbekistan. In this issue, we journey to Bukhara to visit the house museum of politician Fayzulla Khodjaev.

Fayzulla khodjaev (1896–1938) was a patron of education and art, a human rights defender and a follower of Jadidism (a Muslim reformist group) in the 20th century. He supported hundreds of talented Uzbeks in getting their education both abroad and locally. Khodjaev was also very influential and active in the political life of old Bukhara. He once organised a demonstration to improve the constitution for more freedom. This was unsuccessful and eventually, Khodjaev had to leave Uzbekistan. During the massive repressions of the Soviet era, Fayzulla Khodjaev was executed, though later his reputation was completely restored.

The house where Fayzulla was born and later lived with his father, Ubaydullokhoja, a rich merchant and aesthete, sits on three hectares. Inside, visitors can see rare examples of antique furnishings, dishware, Uzbek musical instruments and elegant, period clothing worn by Bukharians, all of which were collected by both Khodjaev and his father.

The house is richly decorated with carpets, paintings and suzani fabrics. The walls of each room are colourfully painted in different patterns.

The house also has a unique structural design. The yard is divided into two parts according to Muslim tradition: the havli davrun, an internal bailey for men only, and the havli berun, an outside yard reserved for women.

Underneath the house is a huge network of mysterious tunnels. Though their purpose is still unknown, many have speculated that Khodjaev wanted to have hidden ways to escape in the event of regional instability.

Spending time in the house museum of Fayzulla Khodjaev offers the chance to experience the authentic lifestyle of Bukharians in the 20th century, as well as to try to unravel the mysteries of Fayzulla Khodjaev’s life. ◆

Address: 55 Mekhtar Anbar St., Bukhara Phone: +998 (99) 687 65 55

Opening hours: 10am–5pm weekdays; closed Saturday & Sunday

Underneath the house is a huge network of mysterious tunnels. Though their purpose is still unknown, many have speculated that Khodjaev wanted to have hidden ways to escape in the event of regional instability.

EXAMPLES OF BEAUTY IN Pottery on Ceramics

Pottery is both an ancient and a modern art form, creating incredible beauty from simple clay. The clay itself is a symbol of generosity, honesty and goodness. Every culture in the world has engaged in ceramics, each differing from the other in its own way. Here, Durdona Shavkatova takes a look at the most popular form of Uzbek ceramic art: plant-like patterns known as Islimiy.

Pottery can be found everywhere in Uzbekistan, but Rishton, Gijduvan, Shahrisabz, Khiva, Khanka, Samarkand and Tashkent have been famous since ancient times as the largest centres for ceramics.

The artistic style of Uzbek pottery has formed over a long period of time and several regional styles and patterns have been preserved through the centuries. The patterns on dishware were mainly pencil, drawing or engraving, and sometimes these were used together.

Styles of pottery differ from place to place, and master artisans use specific, often delicate patterns to decorate them. The common Uzbek decorative patterns are divided into four types: geometric (handasavi), plants (Islimiy), complex (gulli girih) and symbolic patterns.

Of these, the Islimiy is the most widely used pattern, and itself has a number of sub-patterns created by repeating the shapes of leaves, branches, trees, bushes, buds, and other botanical motifs. Each motif carries its own symbolic meaning. Some of the most common motifs seen on Uzbek ceramics include:

PEPPERS

Chillis and peppers are plant-like design elements, which take various forms and are often depicted on ceramic vessels. They provide protection from all kinds of evil and evil eyes.

POMEGRANATE FLOWERS

The pomegranate and its flower, or anorgul, are common motifs across Islamic design and are widely used to decorate Uzbek ceramics. The image of a pomegranate or its flower on ceramic vessels symbolises goodness and generosity. In the Ferghana school, the anorgul is depicted either in a very natural way or as a stylised motif. Pomegranate patterns often show the inside of the pomegranate and its seeds. In addition to ceramics, the anorgul motif is widely used in Uzbek coppersmithing and embroidery.

LEAVES

Stylised or natural leaf patterns are common across Uzbek ceramic decorations. The image of a leaf on a ceramic vessel means awakening. A leaf is a complementary and decorative element in a pattern composition. According to its structure, it is divided into simple and complex types. Leaves most commonly

This photoset represents the selected artworks of Uzbek ceramists from Rishtan, a city in Fergana valley. Here are works of Rustam Usmanov, Saidjon Akhmedov, and other artists.

depicted include the trifolium (clover), almond leaf and willow leaf. Compound images may include many bunches of leaves or grass-like sedges.

FLOWERS

Floral elements, particularly stylised flowers, are typically placed in the central parts of decorative patterns. Like leaves, flowers are also divided into simple and complex patterns according to their structure. Complex flowers include pistachios and multi-petalled flowers, while simple flowers include moonflowers, tulips and pea flowers. The symbolic meaning of each flower is different; for example, a rose means beauty, a tulip symbolises spring and a moonflower means happiness.

The artistic style of Uzbek pottery has formed over a long period of time and several regional styles and patterns have been preserved through the centuries.

THE SEEDS OF Enlightenment IN TURKESTAN

In the 1920s, the region of Turkestan was shaken by world events. A new state was emerging in place of the colony of tsarist Russia. The process was painful and agonising, but there were great hopes that Turkestan would become an educated and developed republic.

In part two of this series, Nadira Khidoyatova continues sharing the story of her grandmother, Soviet-Uzbek theatre and cinema actress Sara Ishonturaeva.

The jadids were a group of social, political and intellectual reformers among Muslim (mainly Turkic) peoples in the Russian Empire in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, who used the stage to promote their enlightenment ideas among the masses. They were a conscious stratum of the middle class that formed as a result of industrial development. Their main aim was the enlightenment of the people and most members of the movement had received an excellent education in Russia as well as in Europe and Turkey.

Even before the revolution, the Jadids had already defined their enlightenment mission and saw a great opportunity in the then-new ideas of the Soviets. Likewise, for the Soviet authorities, the Jadids’ progressive ideas served as a good bridge to the population, which at the time did not speak the Russian language (unlike the Jadids). As a result, the Jadids became earnestly involved in the process of building the new state.

Faizulla Khodjaev, one of the richest Jadids, became one of the leaders of the Young Bukhara movement and even headed the Bukhara Republic formed in 1920 at only 24. It was thanks to Khodjaev that, in 1923, a decree to establish the Bukhara House of Enlightenment was issued, spawning the creative and scientific intellectual movement in Uzbekistan.

In 1924, a mansion at 17 Spiridonovka Street in Moscow – designed by architect Shtekhel for Savva Morozov – was rented by Khodjaev (currently, the building is the Reception House of the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs). Four hundred young people, including 40 young women, were selected from all over Turkestan, Tajikistan and Azerbaijan for an intensive, three-year immersion course. During those three years, they were to receive an education equal to a university degree in various fields.

Seventeen of these young people became the first certified actors. They were Fozil Bobazhanov, Gulom Kodi Isamov, Hoji Sidyk Islamov, Sara Ishanturaeva, Isokkori Karimov, Sharif Kayumov, Hamid Makhmudov, Muzaffar Mukhamedov, Latfulla Nazrullayev, Nigmat Rakhmatov, Hozhikul Rakhmatullaev, Tursinoy

It was likely the happiest of times – an era when the Jadids were able to fulfil their dreams and many young people were given a ticket to the good life thanks to the social lift they received.

Saidazimova, Fatkhulla Umarov and Abror Khidoyatov. Manon Uygur, the future director and chief director of the Hamza Theatre, and now-acclaimed Uzbek poet Abdulhamid Choʻlpon were both students and major translators. It was decided to train future actors on the basis of the Vakhtangov Theatre, as it was felt that its tragicomic remit was the most suitable form for actors who needed to be particularly expressive and emotional to reach the hearts of Uzbek audiences.

It was likely the happiest of times – an era when the Jadids were able to fulfil their dreams and many young people were given a ticket to the good life thanks to the social lift they received. This heyday lasted until 1937, after which time some had reached their peak and others were simply past their prime. But the seeds that the Jadids managed to plant grew and eventually

produced Uzbekistan’s scientific and creative intelligentsia.

My grandmother, actress Sara Ishanturaeva and her friend Tursonoy Saidazimova were only 15 years old when it was decided to send them to study in Moscow because of their obvious talent. And so the two girls, accompanied by their teacher, took the train to their new lives. ◆

To be continued in the next issue...

Getting

Uzbek Style

Uzbek weddings are huge affairs distinguished by their opulence, size and length. They are based on historical traditions and incorporate a long chain of accompanying rituals, some of which date back to the Middle Ages. Each region and even individual village has its own deeply rooted marriage customs. Many are special rituals adopted only by one community, and in a country as large and multicultural as Uzbekistan, this means the styles and traditions of weddings are nearly endless.

My family comes from the eastern part of Uzbekistan – a small town in the Namangan region called Chust. They were very surprised by how different our traditions are from my husband’s family in Bukhara.

Bukhara is known to be comparatively more modern than other cities, and here a lot of young people find their partners without traditional dates arranged by their parents (which is how my husband and I met). However, no matter how a young couple decides to get married, they never go entirely without khuskori – matchmaking rituals. A few women from the groom’s side (usually his mom and aunts) come to the bride’s house three-to-five times to get to

know the bride’s family and then ask for their consent to make the two young people happy and blend two families. Once the families’ approvals are given, they decide on the date of engagement, known as shirini-khuri (literally, ‘eating sweets’). For this, both families lay a festive table covered with sweets and traditional snacks for the relatives, wishing the couple a sweet life.

The most important of all the rituals, which no family can skip, is nikah (an Islamic marriage ceremony), which is even more important than the marriage certificate. By holding a nikah in the mosque, a Muslim man and woman take responsibility for each other and for their family, as well as for the offspring that they will give birth to and raise before God.

Afterwards, there are at least five other rituals before the main wedding day, which all incorporate music, dancing, food and gifts.

Finally, there is the main wedding day. This is typically organised by the parents and held in a huge restaurant, with 300–700 guests on average. It is followed by loud music, a lot of dance shows, and, of course, plenty of food is literally poured

onto tables. On this day, everyone comes to see the beautiful bride in a sparkling white dress and her groom neatly clad in a wedding suit.

Sometimes people organise double weddings in our country for twin brothers or brothers of a similar age, as it was in my case. The second couple in our wedding was my husband’s younger brother and his beautiful bride.

But even after all of these, the rituals are not finished yet. After the wedding day, there are at least six more traditions that last for a few weeks, and each has its purpose.

Oh, these Uzbek weddings! You could write books about them and still never cover all of the traditions.

There are few events richer with Uzbek generosity and hospitality than weddings, especially in Bukhara. Vibrant colours, an abundance of food, music, dancing and food again – all this on a huge scale! Attending an Uzbek wedding is a must for expats and visitors who want to experience a real Uzbek party.

Uzbek weddings are based on historical traditions and incorporate a long chain of accompanying rituals, some of which date back to the Middle Ages. Each region and even individual village has its own deeply rooted marriage customs.

Clockwise from top left: Uzbek ritual of nikah, Pre-wedding photo shoot, Kelin-salom (the Uzbek ritual of greeting), Double wedding

thyssenkrupp Mining Technologies opens in Uzbekistan

The opening of a new Tashkent unit by the leading German multinational engineering firm, thyssenkrupp, is a major milestone for thyssenkrupp Mining Technologies Central Asia and an opportunity for a close partnership between the two countries Germany and Uzbekistan.

This opening affirms thyssenkrupp's commitment to long-term and efficient cooperation as one of the world's largest suppliers of technological solutions and high-quality equipment for the mining industry. The  group offers its customers the best possible planning and optimisation of production processes.

Dr. Reza Poorvash, CEO of thyssenkrupp Mining Technologies Europe and Asia, said at the opening ceremony of the new Tashkent office:

“We are all witnessing the outcomes of mutual interest and support in the development of the mining industry and the application of local capacity within

Uzbekistan, such as the provision of contract work, the provision of necessary infrastructure from local suppliers of materials and services, active collaboration and the successful implementation of long-term projects that will contribute to world-class results in the mining industry.”

Regarding the new project in Uzbekistan, the company notes not only the positive socioeconomic effects but also the issue of sustainable development. The firm brings its world-class engineering know-how in the area of milling with the innovative velix® (vertical helix stirred mill) for ore processing. Four of these mills will be introduced for the first time ever at an iron ore project in Uzbekistan and will serve as a reliable reference and model for customers around the world for a long time to come.

Roman Karl , Regional Director of thyssenkrupp Mining Technologies CIS, added: “A rational approach to the consumption of the country's resources

by the customer and exploitation of the environmental potential of the velix® mill: less energy requirements, high reliability, less maintenance. The market is open to opportunities; we are confident in the quality of our product and we still have more to offer.”

thyssenkrupp Mining Technologies is a recognised global leader in the development and manufacture of equipment and technologies for continuous mining, in-pit crushing and conveying, screening, stockyard and port systems and pyrometallurgical equipment for the mining industry. To date, more than 17,500 pieces of equipment have been sold worldwide for mining, concentrating, conveying, stockpiling and materialhandling technology.

thyssenkrupp Mining Technologies has a presence in Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, providing customers with timely and effective technology and equipment supply support, maintenance solutions from single or regular inspections, on-site training, supply and management of spare parts and all types of special support, as well as equipment modifications and process optimisation, up to permanent 24/7 service.

Taking into account the experience of the company's CIS representative offices, it

should be noted that local service engineers have reached a level where they can advise, train and service equipment to European standards locally. These skills have been gained through experience exchange and close cooperation with engineers from Germany.

Director of thyssenkrupp Mining Technologies, Dilmurod Isakulov stated:

“Our team in Uzbekistan is sincerely glad to be a part of the global thyssenkrupp operation, which is over 150 years old. Being at the forefront of such largescale projects in the mining industry in our country is a great responsibility. I would like to thank Ambassador

Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the Federal Republic of Germany to Uzbekistan Dr. Tilo Klinner, partners, and all of our colleagues at thyssenkrupp Mining Technologies in Germany and CIS for their support at all stages of project development and the opening of our office. We are making history, enjoying the processes and aiming for a successful outcome.”

Address: 7/703, BC "Semurg", 88A, Amir Temur St, Tashkent Tel: +998 (71) 206 08 05, +998 (99) 266 66 21 Email: dauren.utegenov@thyssenkrupp.com Website: thyssenkrupp-mining-cis.ru

The Story of Babur

The story of babur: Prince, Emperor, Sage, written by Nepalese children’s author Anuradha, and illustrated by award-winning British artist Jane Ray, is a colourful and lively telling of the Baburnama, the first true autobiography in Islamic literature, originally penned by the mighty Central Asian king, Babur (1485–1530), also the founder of the Moghul Empire.

This adaptation introduces younger readers (age 7 and up) to this classic of world literature and to Babur’s exciting adventures of discovery and conquest, from his native Fergana and cosmopolitan Samarkand across the glittering cities of Afghanistan and finally on to Hindustan.

VU: What inspired you to write this book?

Anuradha: Scala Arts & Heritage, the publisher, reached out to me with the proposal of writing this book. Eventually, the more I studied and researched on the subject, I was fascinated by the true story of a young boy whose life is no less adventurous than any fictional story. It was very interesting to get an insight into the cultural, literary and intellectual world of the time and to read about how Babur laid the foundation of the Moghul empire in the Indian subcontinent.

VU: Why is the story of Babur so important for children?

A: Reading about the real-life story of someone as remarkable as Babur can often influence, motivate and can even

ANURADHA

provide encouragement for children. They may recognise the hardships that a historical figure has faced and relate them to their own struggles. Babur’s story can also encourage children to consider fundamental questions of identity and diversity.

Apart from that, Babur’s story is also important for children (or anyone for that matter) as it lays the foundation of history as we know it today. It is also not only the first true autobiography of the first Mughal emperor but also because it is also the first true autobiography within Islamic literature.

VU: In your new version, Babur speaks to the reader directly. What was it like getting into the mind of a medieval prince to tell his story in the first-person?

A: To be honest, I started off with a lot of prejudice towards medieval princes who, in general, were expected to be exceptional war leaders, as political unrest and warfare were constant realities. However, as I delved deep into the world of Babur, I began to understand and was pleasantly surprised at the considerable engagement Babur had with questions of mind and body and the extraordinary insight that he had to offer. I soon realised that I had taken up the grave responsibility of being the voice of a person whose story demands a shift of our personal belief systems and to appreciate how this medieval thinker operated. I struggled not to be too judgmental of Babur’s actions and to balance my writing without distorting the past to fit modern notions of right and wrong.

VU: The landscapes, cities and Silk Road tales of Central Asia and Uzbekistan have become almost mythical around the world. What do you think it is about this region and history that sparks people's imagination so strongly?

A: While largely commercial, the Silk Road provided the vehicle for all sorts of creative exchange between tremendously diverse peoples and cultures. The routes had a lasting impact on commerce, culture and history that resonates even today. It is intriguing to reflect upon the fact that the Silk Road spanned the Asian continent

A new, fully illustrated retelling of the story of the great prince Babur brings one of Uzbekistan’s national heroes to life for children and families. Here, Visit Uzbekistan Editor Megan Eaves interviews the book’s author.

I hope that by reading this book, children and families will understand that while some things change from age to age, much remains universal.

and represented a form of global economy when the known world was smaller but more difficult to traverse than nowadays. No wonder the cultural influence and its architectural achievements charm people even after so many decades.

In addition to that, a lot of the stories from Islamic literature like Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves, Sinbad and the Arabian Nights, that we heard during our childhoods, were framed by the journey of Silk Road and take us back to the mythical age.

VU: What do you hope that children and families take away from reading this book?

A: I hope that by reading this book, children and families will understand that while some things change from age to age, much remains universal. Some things that are forever relevant are virtues such as love, empathy and humanity. Humanity travels down the ages!

I think it will also be really interesting for children to see historical figures as real people rather than these towering figures, as they are often represented in traditional history books. The insight gained in studying a biography can include an emotional component beyond curriculum objectives.

VU: On a personal note, have you ever had the chance to travel to Uzbekistan?

If yes, please tells us about some of your favourite places and experiences there.

A: Unfortunately, I have not. However, I have many times visited Uzbekistan via Google Maps and also combed the internet about it. The architecture looks magnificent. I feel like I know the streets and I can smell the plov. It would certainly be a dream come true if I got the opportunity to visit Uzbekistan, one of the grandest countries in the world. ◆

The Story of Babur: Prince, Emperor, Sage is published by Scala Arts and Heritage Publishers as part of a long-term collaboration supporting the Art and Culture Foundation under the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Uzbekistan.

Publication date: 28 June 2022

Those Tashkent Nights

Originally from Moscow, Irina Papina is an art lover with an impressive background in finance and management, who fell in love with Uzbekistan. In this new series, she tells us how to live like a local in Tashkent.

What kind of traveller are you? I go back and forth between ‘I want everything to be perfect and plan to the letter’ and ‘I think the best way to explore is to get lost and trust the city’. But, whether you are a control freak or a groovy hippie when it comes to your travels, Tashkent has loads to offer. In this short series of articles, I want to share several tricks on how to turn just another evening into a night to remember in the capital of Uzbekistan. All tricks spotted by an-almost-local: me!

Let’s say you fancy some music. My go-to is jazz bar Maqom. Its design looks as sassy as the cool kids who frequent it. Daily live music is accompanied by exquisite food and drinks that feel like an effortless luxury. Make sure you try their sumalak cocktail, which transports you from the urban centre of Tashkent to the very roots of traditional Uzbek flavours. Another must is the dessert menu created by a very special pastry chef, Artyom Gaifullin, who holds Le Cordon Bleu diploma.

Keeping on with the jazzy mood, why don’t we dig deep and embrace more of the city’s music scene? Luckily, Tashkent has the outstanding Ilkhom Theatre, which hosts all sorts of contemporary performing arts. Try to aim for a night when the Ilkhom Jazz Club is on – it’s an evening filled with great music and the joy of many talented people doing what they love: speaking the international language of jazz. Each performance is special thanks to the creative genius of Saidmurat Muratov, leader of the band Jazzirama and a great sax player.

Feeling classy? See a classical music concert at the State Conservatory followed by a glass of bubbly at the Hilton rooftop bar, which – conveniently – is located right across the road.

In the mood to dance your heart out? Steam Вar has two floors of rock and pop that don’t let the hips lie. And you can fuel up for the dance floor with their burgers, too.

I hope this list has plenty to keep you busy! Stay tuned for the next issue, when I’ll be bringing you ideas for an artsy afternoon out in Tashkent. ◆

Clockwise from top left: State Conservatory, Hilton rooftop bar, jazz bar Maqom, State Conservatory, At the Alisher Navoi Grand Theatre

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A Cut Above

From the 6th to the 12th centuries, knife-making developed primarily for warfare purposes. At that time, cutting tools were bigger than they are now. The works and miniatures of Navoi and Babur showed that armies used different types of swords in the 15th to 17th centuries. After that time, knives were special decorations and every military carried them.

Year by year, knife-making was further developed across Uzbekistan, including in the Fergana Valley, Tashkent, Bukhara, Kashkadarya, Surkhandarya and Khorezm. Each had its own schools, such as Chust, Shahrikhan, Kara-suv, Kokand, Khiva and Tashkent.

An ancient city along the Silk Road, Bukhara is still a centre for knife-making. As early as the 10th century, Uzbek scientist Abu Raykhon Beruniy mentioned Bukhara knife-making skills in his writings. Across the city, hammers could be heard engaged in the manufacture of Damascus sabres and knives, medical instruments, plumbing and sewing accessories, which were valued among the merchants of the great Silk Road. Damascus knives and sabres were particularly prized. Central Asian ambassadors presented them to European dignitaries as gifts, and they began to be sought after as souvenirs and in domestic use, as well.

Sa’dullo and Sayfullo Ikromov are the most famous craftsman in Bukhara. The Ikromov brothers make uncopiable and unique knives – a form of art that is capricious as jewellery-making. Creating a Damascus knife requires around a week (or 120 hours) of work by two crafters, one who works the metal and the other to chop the blade. The handle is most often made of bone, horn or wood.

Damascus knives feature a unique, curved shape that is particularly useful for Bukharan gold embroiderers, as their shape helps easily cut complex, detailed patterns. Many also feature the image of a stork, which has long been a symbol of Bukhara. The stork often nested in the city and it was believed that if this kind of bird built a nest near a house, then its family would be prosperous and happy.

Damascus knives are made of titanium alloy and do not require sharpening. The Bukhara art of knife-making is of such high quality and importance that it stands alongside many of the traditional crafts already inscribed on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage. Knives produced in Uzbekistan are not only used as household items but are also considered a national work of art and highly valued as gifts for foreign visitors. ◆

Early Bukhara knives were used as cutting tools and in military exploits. Nowadays, they are prized works of art and items of memory.

An ancient city along the Silk Road, Bukhara is still a centre for knife-making. As early as the 10th century, Uzbek scientist Abu Raykhon Beruniy mentioned Bukhara knife-making skills in his writings.

All of Uzbekistan In a Park

Navruz Ethnopark is one of Tashkent’s most popular parks for tourists and residents alike. Here, visitors can experience the atmosphere of centuries past and learn new facets and visions of Uzbek culture. It is a place that embodies all of the cultures and traditions of the country.

In the centre of Tashkent, Navruz Ethnopark is renowned for its unique attractions, lively atmosphere, excellent dining options and eclectic shopping. The park is overflowing with talented people with unique visions and a passion for creation.

There really is something for everyone, but two attractions are especially exciting: the 88-metre-long, cable-stayed ‘endless’ bridge and the Ethnographic Town – a set of scale replicas of landmarks from all over Uzbekistan. Walking along the streets here, visitors can dive into the past and see how our ancestors lived, and appreciate the unique architecture and design of Uzbekistan’s most famous buildings in miniature. In just half an hour, you’ll pass Samarkand’s Registan, the Ark Fortress in Bukhara and Khudoyarkhan Palace in Khorezm. The park is well signposted, which will help you take a mini-voyage around Uzbekistan.

A good meal is easy to find here – there are many restaurants with delicious examples of regional Uzbek cuisines. For instance, Loza and Halva are two cosy options with extremely tasty food. For dessert, Iman. finik is a boutique chocolate factory with high-quality chocolates, dates and sweets.

Those looking for something special to take home from Uzbekistan have a

wide choice of different shops offering traditional clothing and souvenirs, such as AzukarMoreno, BahmalUz, SaSha, Sofiya and many others. Creative aficionados can visit the artists’ studios, browse retail shops for handmade items and utensils or even visit a workshop to make something with their own hands. TUMOR Art Gallery or Masterskaya is one of the most popular places for creativity in all of Tashkent, offering a huge range of classes, such as painting, pottery, fabric decoration and more. There are also several exhibition halls with works by well-known Uzbek artists.

Navruz Ethnopark also has the biggest Ferris wheel in Tashkent, which has outstanding views of the whole city. Throughout the year, there are a variety of fairs and festivals themed around traditional food, clothing and crafts, exhibitions by young artists and more.

In the middle of the park, there is a flowershaped stage, ‘Navruz’. Its marble floor depicts a map of Uzbekistan and fountains are arranged in a circular pattern around it. The park is named after the spring festival of Navruz, but its purpose goes far beyond one annual celebration of the equinox.

Navrus Ethnopark is a year-round holiday and one of the capital's most beautiful places.

Clockwise from top left: Ethnographic Town, Azucar Moreno showroom, Masterskaya Art Space, Halva Art Cafe

Walking along the streets here, visitors can dive into the past and see how our ancestors lived, and appreciate the unique architecture and design of Uzbekistan’s most famous buildings in miniature.

“You're entirely bonkers. But I'll tell you a secret: All the best people are.” ALICE IN WONDERLAND

In Search of the Unusual

It's rare to find unusual photographs of ordinary life. Here, we share the story of Uzbek photographer Khayrullaeva Oyjon's unusual shots.

Khayrullaeva oyjon has been taking photographs since 2014. She fell in love with photography when she first went to Istanbul and found inspiration in the city’s architecture, nature and culture. At the time, she shot everything on her small phone but once she got home, she used her savings to buy her first camera. However, Oyjon never expected photography to become her life's work.

“I had my first photos printed and hung on my wall so that, on days of doubt and failure, I could remind myself why I am doing this profession and not give up,” recalls Oyjon about her early struggles as a professional photographer.

The series of photographs of the ballerina at the mosque (pictured above) were taken in March 2021 at Bukhara’s Poi-i-Kalyan complex. Pictured is Tamila Daniyarova, a ballet dancer at the Alisher Navoi Theatre.

“About two years ago, I had a dream that I was watching a ballerina dancing in a big white room with endless corridors,” Oyjon says about her inspiration for the photo shoot. “At that time, I was not yet familiar with the dancer in this series of photographs. But many days passed after that dream. In December 2021, I was looking for a ballerina model and Tamila responded to a request I placed on Telegram and we became friends. On my next trip to my hometown of Bukhara, Tamila wanted to come with me. I kept

thinking about which places to show her and what to surprise her with. Suddenly the idea of a ballerina in pointe shoes posing in a mosque appeared in my mind. I suggested the idea to her and she was enthusiastic. Once the images were ready, I remembered the dream and was delighted to see it fulfilled.”

This series of photographs is called “Sur” in reference to Surrealism. The uniqueness of these images is in the fact that, normally, you would never see a ballerina in a mosque. A harmonious blending of incongruous things together in one frame. ◆

EATING ON THE STREETS OF TASHKENT:

LEGENDARY CAFES

In this ongoing column, foodie Anna Martusevich takes us along as she samples Tashkent’s most delectable foods and offers tips on where to go and what to order.

The food scene in tashkent is highly diverse. I have been mostly defeated in my ongoing battle to stay fit in such gastronomical heaven, but it is totally worth it! Although it is my sixth year living here, I’m still continuing to discover the hidden places that have already been legendary among locals for a few decades. If asked which ones I would recommend off the top of my head, the following four would be my top choices.

Café Ugolok

Average price/person: $7-11 (depending on portion size)

Address: 10 Mustaqilliq Avenue

Open for more than 60 years, Ugolok remains one of the most beloved places for many generations of Tashkenters. A ‘monomenu’ venue, the cafe serves fried chicken, vegetable plates (fresh cut or marinated), white bread and their signature tomato sauce with a secret recipe that they guard religiously. They call it ‘Chicken Tabaka’ after a famous Georgian dish.

Ugolok’s simple, friendly atmosphere recalls the nostalgic, no-nonsense, old Soviet-style cafes. Enter and you’ll find a very diverse crowd – groups of acquaintances and friends mix with local TV and press personalities, bankers, taxi drivers, police officers, suits and students. Some queue at the takeaway counter for food to go, and others sit and dine in at the cafe’s tables.

Ask any taxi driver to take you to “Ugolok na Skvere” and you will surely end up at the right place.

Non Bazaar

Bread and pies per item: from 0.9 US cents

Address: Chegetai Passage

Named for the Uzbek word for bread, this is a famous spot for local breads, pies, and somsas of all tastes, shapes and sizes. A sunny, open place where street vendors sell their products from old-school baby carriages, it’s the best option for a quick bite while listening to the latest Tashkent news and gossip. A bonus on my most recent adventure here was running into a vendor who also spoke fluent French!

Chegatai

Average price/person: $5-10 (depending on how hungry you are)

Address: Chegetai Passage

Adjacent to (or, more, flowing out from) Non Bazaar, Chegatai is a famous shashlik street in the old city of Tashkent. Locals have been coming here for freshly grilled meats since the mid-1970s. This street is a community of shops that offers mainly shashlik barbecued on the side of the road in a long line. If you’re in the area, you can’t miss it – just follow the smell of sizzling meat and the wafting of fragrant smoke. Uzbek shashlik comes on smaller skewers than the ones in the Caucasus and is spiced with cumin. The lamb, cubed beef, minced beef and liver shashliks are all to die for here. Enjoy with fresh bread picked up in Non Bazaar 10 minutes beforehand.

Pelmennaya

Average price/person: $10-20 (depending on portion size)

Address: 2 Yakkachinor Street

Pelmennaya is my favourite spot in the city, by far. Pelmeni are similar to Chinese-stye meat dumplings but are much smaller in size. They are popular across the former Soviet Union, but the version at Pelmennaya is one of the best I’ve had anywhere.

The dumplings are prepared fresh every morning. Located by the old ‘books boulevard’, it opened in the mid-1970s and is still run by the same family. You will always see father and son welcoming you with their wide smiles and they will remember your name even if you only visited them once.

Pelmeni are served with sour cream, spices, mustard, vinegar and bread.

Useful Phrases Learn

in Uzbek

GREETINGS

Hello/Hi: [salom]

Good morning: [khayrli tong]

Good afternoon: [khayrli kun]

Good evening: [khayrli kech]

FAREWELLS

Goodbye: [khair]

See you: [kurishamiz]

Have a nice day: [kuningiz khayirli utsin]

Good night: [Yaxshi uxlab turing]

POLITENESS

Thank you/Thanks: [rakhmat]

Please: [iltimos]

You’re welcome! [khush kelibsiz!]

Not at all: [arzimaydi]

Excuse me: [kechirasiz]

No problem: [muammo yoq]

It’s ok (alright): [khammasi yakhshi]

DIRECTIONS

I'm lost (We're lost): [Men yukolib koldim (Biz yukolib koldik)]

Could you tell me how to get there? [Menga kanday borishni ayta olasizmi?]

Do you know where the…? [Bilasizmi kanday…?]

How far is the airport / train station / bus station? [Aeroport / poezd / avtobus yuli kanchalik uzok?]

Can you show me on the map? [Kartada kursatib berib olasizmi?]

I’m looking for this address: [Manashu manzilni kidirmokdaman]

You’re going the wrong way: [Siz notogri yul bilan bormokdasiz]

Take this road: [Bu yul bilan boring]

Turn left / right: [Chapga/unga buriling]

Go straight ahead: [Tugriga karab yuring]

EATING & DRINKING

Do you have any free tables? [Bush joy bormi?]

I want to make a reservation: [Men stolni oldindan band kilmokchiman]

May I have the menu, please? [Menyuni kursam buladimi, iltimos?]

Do you serve vegetarian food? [Sizlarda vegetarian taomlarni bormi?]

What do you recommend? [Siz nimani tavsiya kila olasiz?]

I’ll have this: [Men shuni buyurtma beraman]

I’d like a cup of coffee / tea / a glass of water / a glass of wine: [Men bir chashka kahva / choy / bir stakan suv / vino istayman]

How much is it? [Nechi pul?]

May I have the bill, please? [Hisobni olsam maylimi?]

Thank you, that was delicious! [Rakhmat, khammasi mazali edi!]

Keep the change: [Kaytimi kerak emas]

EMERGENCIES

Help! [Yordam bering!]

Be careful! [Ehtiyot buling!]

Is anything wrong? [Biror narsa buldimi?]

I need help: [Menga yordam kerak]

Call an ambulance! [Tez yordam chakiring!]

Call the police! [Politsiyani chakiring!]

My (wallet / handbag / laptop) was stolen: [Mening (hamyon / sumka / noutbuk) ugirlangan]

I need to call the embassy: [Men elchikhonaga kungirok kilishim kerak]

The Secret of the Gijduvan Shashlik

Most Uzbeks enjoy eating shashlik, especially the style from Gijduvan, but few know the secret to cooking it like the masters.

Shashlik is popular across Central Asia, but one of the most celebrated shashliks in Uzbekistan comes from Gijduvan - a small city 50km north of Bukhara.

Shashlik is one of the most ancient dishes on Earth, though no one really knows where the dish originated. It seems easy to see how ancient people learned how to make fire and quickly deduced they could cook meat over it. Many centuries later, hunters and soldiers found they could easily roast meat using the ramrods of their muskets and pishchals (arquebus/long gun). Thus, the skewer was born.

sheep their fat marbling, resulting in a particularly juicy shashlik.

Nowadays, almost any meat cooked over coals can be considered shashlik, but the dish goes far beyond just barbecued meat; it is a whole ritual with its own rules and etiquette. Shashlik is popular across Central Asia, but one of the most celebrated shashliks in Uzbekistan comes from Gijduvan – a small city 50km north of Bukhara.

It is difficult to say why exactly Gijduvan gave birth to this most famous Uzbek shashlik, but there are many legends about its origins. Some believe it was connected to Abdulkhalik Gijduvan, a Sufi from the Naqshbandi order who was born in Gijduvan. Others say one particular shashlik master from Gijduvan travelled to Tashkent and won everyone over with his Gijduvan-style shashlik. Others nod to the local butter plant for giving Gijduvan

Gijduvan kebabs are often made using young lamb or beef (less often chicken or pork). The fire is best when made with wood from fruit trees, which impart the meat with a special, aromatic flavour. The wood must burn for 30 minutes and be covered with a layer of ash before the meat is laid over the coals. There should be no flame left – the shashlik is cooked only over the hot coals. Shashlik is served with greens, usually cilantro and fresh vegetables, as well as tartar sauce.

There is one thing that’s certain: in Uzbekistan, around 99% of the adult population are Gijduvan shashlik devotees, but only 1% know the recipe and their families have been cooking this juicy dish for several generations.

Want to try making it yourself? You can certainly ask for the recipe and the chefs may even tell you their methods. But you’ll likely find that your version never turns out as tasty as the seasoned masters’. And that’s because the secret of the Gijduvan shashlik is carefully guarded and passed from generation to generation only to trusted friends and students of the craft. ◆

One in a Melon

It is impossible to imagine summer in Uzbekistan without sweet and juicy melons. Walking through an Uzbek bazaar, you’re sure to see shoppers lightly tapping on watermelons. First-time visitors might find this ritual a bit strange, but there is a logical explanation. Below we offer some basic rules for choosing the best and sweetest summer melons.

Knowing how to select a melon is part of the Uzbek soul. Since time immemorial, our grandfathers and grandmothers knew just how to choose the most delicious and juicy fruits. If you have difficulty spotting the best melons, you can ask the vendor for help – Uzbek sellers are friendly and always willing to show their most choice and ripe offerings. But below we offer some tips for melon neophytes.

MELONS

In order to choose a sweet fruit, you need to pay attention to the scent, clean rind and sound. You should not buy melons near roads and highways – these tend to have thin skins, allowing harmful substances and toxins to be easily absorbed into the fruit.

Before buying, you should inspect the melon carefully. It should not have cracks or cuts – such fruit will quickly go sour and rot. You should also remember that a ripe melon has a honey-pear aroma, while the

one that has no smell is unripe or already spoiled. The melon should be weighty and seem heavier than its size. Also note that, when tapped on, a ripe melon will produce a muffled sound (this is the opposite of watermelon). An additional check is the hardness of the fruit. Another little secret of how to choose a melon lies in its rind: if the melon rind is too soft and leaves traces after tapping, it means that the fruit is overripe and should not be eaten. Also check the ‘tail’ (or stem, if present) of the melon: it should be slightly dried-out.

WATERMELON

Choosing a watermelon is similar to choosing a melon, but there are some differences. For starters, when tapping the fruit, there should be a ringing sound (after a little practice, you can easily determine the correct sound). Also, the watermelon should crackle slightly when lightly squeezed, which indicates its maturity and juiciness.

There should also be no cracks on the watermelon, and it should be heavy. To be sure, you can ask the vendor to cut the watermelon. In such cases, it’s best to make a square-shaped cut on the ‘tail’ of the watermelon. Knowing the secrets of how to choose a good watermelon, you’ll have no doubt about the ripeness of the fruit that you’ve purchased. By cutting it, you will smell and taste the sweet flavour and immediately know if you’ve made the right choice.

Autograph Art Gallery’s Porcelain Pieces

For exclusive gifts or exquisite interior decor, connoisseurs of beautiful items don’t need to look far. The magic of a piece of hand-painted porcelain from AUTOGRAPH Art Gallery is sure to bring joy to you and those around you.

Porcelain may have appeared in what is now Central Asia thanks to the cultural interests of Amir Timur's favourite wife, Saray-Mulk Hanim. Some say she invited porcelain masters from China – the Celestial Empire – where the porcelain craft had been practised as early as the 4th century (some sources indicate even earlier dates).

Another legend says that porcelain techniques were brought to Central Asia from China during the Yuan dynasty (1280–1386). And later, during the Ming dynasty (1368–1644), Chinese porcelain took on its famous blue colour thanks to the use of “Muslim cobalt blue”. It is important to note that this stage in the development of ceramics left centuries of indelible similarities between the porcelain wares of both Chinese and Central Asian porcelain.

AUTOGRAPH Art Gallery exhibits a number of important contemporary porcelain artists whose work can also be found in museums worldwide. Their artistry is unparalleled thanks to their distinctive styles, including satin designs, images of ripe pomegranates, suzani patterns and spectacular landscape paintings. The combination of white porcelain and traditional paintwork has a mesmeric effect. Each piece is entirely hand-painted – you can see the artist’s soul in every brushstroke.

Of particular note is the gallery’s collection of magnificent tea and coffee sets, which feature traditional Central Asian symbols, such as the anor (pomegranate), bodom (almond), lola (tulip) and the islimi (floral/ arabesque).

Ataturk Street, Tashkent

The hand-drawn images by these artistic masters are full of life. Floral patterns impart the sense of holding a delicate flower in one’s hand. Colourful peppers make your fingers tingle. And birds of paradise make the flavour of your tea sing.

Hand-painted porcelain is always in demand. A hand-painted item's individuality, by definition, increases its value, and the intricate decoration on white porcelain creates an especially fine and delicate effect.

For this reason, when you choose a piece of porcelain, choose carefully so that it will be cherished and passed down from generation to generation.