Get Into Mountain Biking

GET INTO MOUNTAIN

BIKING

WHAT TO BUY, WHERE TO RIDE AND HOW TO HAVE MAXIMUM FUN

Trail Level Up from £675

Naming this bike was a no brainer. Dirt-tailored geometry brings quickness and composure with short chainstays for agility and traction, a slack head angle for unwavering stability, plus wide bars and a short stem for total control. It all adds up to big trail readiness. Get after it. Cannondale.com/Trail

WELCOME!

Both to this guide and to the exciting, challenging and – most importantly – super-fun sport of mountain biking. There’s never been a better time to get involved, with new riding spots popping up all over the UK, bikes being more capable and easier to ride than ever before, and a really diverse bunch of folks having a blast together out on the trails. Over the next 20-plus pages, we’ll guide you through the confusing process of choosing a bike, plus review some good-value options. We’ve got tips on how to set up your new steed, from saddle height to suspension, along with recommendations of where to ride and what accessories to buy first. Plus, we’ll walk you through the fundamental skills you’ll need to make the most of those first few tentative forays onto the trails. If you’re already an experienced off-road rider, please don’t just discard this guide –pass it on and share the MTB love! Once you’ve had a look yourself, of course, because it’s always worth brushing up on the basics, no matter how long you’ve been riding for. See you on the trails!

CYCLE SHOW 2022

FIND THE RIGHT MOUNTAIN BIKE

With technology evolving in leaps and bounds, new ‘standards’ emerging and old ones swiftly becoming outdated, and an ever-growing dictionary of jargon to be deciphered, the mountain bike market can be a confusing place, even for seasoned riders. Highly specialised bikes sit side-by-side with machines that are claimed to excel at everything. And they’re all spread over such a vast price range that it can be hard to know where to start. Our objective over the next six pages is to set out all the factors you should consider when looking for a new ride. As well as helping you to work out what sort of bike will work best for your riding, we’ll explain the pros and cons of common choices you’ll face, and what you should expect at each price point.

1 HOW MUCH SUSPENSION DO YOU NEED?

It’s essential to establish early on what sort of trails you intend to ride and on which terrain you want your bike to excel. This will help you decide what category of bike you need. Unless you’re set on a hardtail or fatbike (see right), the easiest way to define the categories is in terms of suspension travel. Roughly speaking…

60-110mm: Cross-country race bike

Trail types: Fast-flowing, smooth.

Excels: Climbing and acceleration.

110-130mm: Downcountry bike

Trail types: Manmade loops and less rocky natural routes.

Excels: Covering distance fast.

130-150mm: Trail bike

Trail types: More technical tracks with some bigger features.

Excels: Equally capable up and downhill.

150-180mm: Enduro bike

Trail types: Steep, gnarly off-piste; rocky tech; bike-park tracks.

Excels: Rapid on the descents, but can still be pedalled back to the top.

180-200mm: Downhill/freeride bike

Trail types: The fastest, roughest descents known to man!

Excels: Descending; there’s no way you’re pedalling one uphill.

Less suspension travel usually means a lighter, faster bike uphill and on the flat. More travel generally equals better downhill capability. If you’re new to the sport and want to try a bit of everything, a mid-travel trail bike is the best all-rounder. Within this broad category, there’s still a lot of variation, though.

Want to rack up big miles on all-day epics? Lean towards shorter travel. If progressing your skills and tackling technical terrain is what gets your blood pumping, consider more bounce. The same rule of thumb is true for electric bikes too (see right), although with a motor to help on the climbs, it’s on flatter trails that a shorter-travel e-bike is likely to excel.

WHAT ABOUT WOMEN’S BIKES?

Few brands still make true women’s-specific MTBs with geometry optimised for the female form – Canyon (on some models) and Liv being two notable exceptions. Most argue that women’s requirements from a bike are much the same as similarly-proportioned men’s, so their ‘women’s bikes’ are simply unisex models with a different saddle and paintjob, and sometimes a lighter suspension tune, too. Opting for a unisex bike opens up more choice, and you can adapt them by fitting a women’s saddle, trimming the bar down and bolting on thinner grips.

HARDTAILS

With no rear suspension, hardtails are instead defined largely by their geometry and componentry. Affordable beginner bikes will often have quite conservatively-shaped frames and basic kit, while more specialised ‘hardcore’ options will have longer-andslacker chassis and burlier parts to help them handle better at speed and in the rough.

PROS

Hardtails are good value for money, with better parts than equivalently-priced full-sussers

With no pivots or links, there’s less to wear out or go wrong

Without the safety-net of rear suspension, you’re forced to ride well and choose smoother lines

CONS

You don’t get the same level of rear-wheel grip and traction, and there’s nothing to absorb bigger impacts

The rigid rear end can make them uncomfortable, although clever tube shaping and use of materials such as chromoly steel and titanium can mitigate this

PLUS AND FATBIKES

Fatbikes with monster 3.5in to 5in tyres have a devout following in the bikepacking community, but unless you ride on sand or snow (and have a penchant for bushy beards and craft beer), they’re heavy, slow and the handling takes some getting used to. ‘Plus-size’ 2.8in to 3in tyres caused a buzz a few years ago, promising some of the fatbike benefits, but with less weight and rolling resistance. They make sense for hardtails, where their extra volume and bounce adds comfort, but tyre brands have struggled to deliver the right balance of strength, stability, grip and weight to satisfy more aggressive riders. Most manufacturers seem to have settled on 2.4in to 2.6in tyres as the best compromise for their trail and enduro bikes. If you’re still tempted by a plus bike, be warned that replacement tyres are expensive.

DON’T LOSE SLEEP OVER LINKAGES

a confusing number of rear suspension designs out there, and it can be hard to know what’ll work best for you. The good news is that, these days, the vast majority work pretty well. Shortlisting bikes based on their linkage doesn’t make sense unless you’re after a specific ride characteristic. The nuances of each design only become apparent when you’re above a certain skill level anyway. you re above a certain skil

2 PICK A WHEEL SIZE

E-BIKES

PROS

CONS

Motorised pedalling assistance continues to be the fastest-growing trend sweeping the bike world. E-MTBs have gained plenty of converts but still attract disdain from pedal-power purists. If you’ve never ridden one, then it’s definitely worth having a go to see what all the fuss is about. Just remember, while they’re certainly fun to ride, they don’t necessarily make all trails more enjoyable.

Motor assistance (which kicks in when you pedal) lets you cover ground faster and rack up elevation with ease

Heavy weight and low centre of gravity add extra stability and grip

They make uphills fun!

Wet, sloppy conditions are no longer such a slog

Pressed for time, or not at peak fitness? An e-bike will facilitate more riding

If you’re getting on a bit, recovering from injury or just want to hang out with a faster group, e-MTBs are a great tool

Even base models cost upwards of £1,000. For full suspension, expect to pay at least £3,000

Technology is evolving rapidly, so bikes become outdated quickly

Limited battery life

The heft of e-bikes makes them less chuckable and playful, so they can suck the fun out of some trails

You won’t get the same workout, unless you sprint everywhere

Motor assistance cuts out at 15mph under UK law, so getting to the trails can be frustratingly slow

For a long time, 26in wheels were the standard on mountain bikes, but with the exception of dirt-jump and slopestyle bikes, they’ve been phased out in favour of larger, faster-rolling hoops. Any new adult bike will likely come with either 27.5in- (historically known as 650b) or 29in-diameter wheels. If our local trails are anything to go by, the market is split roughly 50/50. ‘Twenty-niners’ have the advantages of carrying momentum better, rolling over obstacles more easily and providing more traction (due to the longer contact patch of their tyres). The disadvantages are that the bigger wheels accelerate slower, take more effort to slow down and are harder to initiate a turn with. This isn’t a problem in most scenarios, but if you have quite a dynamic riding style or like to ride trails that are tight, twisting and steep, then 650b wheels can be preferable. Early 29ers had some handling quirks, but modern geometry means they now ride as well as smaller-wheeled bikes. The extra height of 29in wheels is a factor to consider though, especially if you’re not very tall. Summed up in one line, we’d say 650b is fun, 29in is fast –which, of course, can also be fun...

Horst-link, VPP, Split-Pivot… there’s

FORGET BRAND LOYALTY

Fox or RockShox suspension? Shimano or SRAM gears? When it comes to these componentry big guns, people have their preferences – and prejudices – but ultimately, all of them have products in their ranges that outperform the competition. Plenty of less prominent brands make decent kit, too. If you want to know how the parts on a bike will perform, forget the name stickers and read our reviews.

lighter and less noisy. At this price, you won’t get a high-performance machine, but the best bikes are still a ton of fun to ride.

£1,100-£2,300

3 SET YOUR BUDGET

Complete bikes can be roughly divided into six price brackets. Here’s what you can expect to get in each. Remember, cheap doesn’t necessarily mean good value...

SUB-£650

The half-grand mark used to be the starting point for a ‘proper’ MTB, but in recent years it’s risen closer to £650. Spend much less and you’re likely to find compromises have been made with key components (fork, gearing, tyres, brakes) in order to keep the cost down. That’s fine if you only plan to ride gravel tracks or forest roads, but makes for a fairly unpleasant ride on anything more technical.

650 1 100

PRICE POINTS

If your budget’s tight, or you ’ re just starting out, we’d definitely

, f our dg ’ ta ting e

recommend a hardtail. Full-sussers at this price are likely to be let down by poor suspension, underpowered brakes and less-thangrippy tyres. First and foremost, look for a frame that fits you and has good geometry, because this’ll give you a good base for future upgrades. A suspension fork and hydraulic disc brakes are both musts, and a wide handlebar (760mm+) and short stem (35-50mm) will significantly improve the bike’s handling. As you go up in price, look for an airsprung fork (because these can be easily tuned to your weight) and stiffer bolt-through axles in place of quick-release skewers. A single chainring up front paired with a wide-range cassette at the rear (known as a ‘1x’ drivetrain) will give you the same gearing as a double crankset, but will be simpler to use,

Full-suspension trail bikes worth considering start at just over £1,000 (take a look at our test on page 10), although if you stick with a hardtail, you’ll get a better parts specification (‘spec’) for your money. Things to look for include a RockShox, Fox or Marzocchi fork, a 1x12 SRAM NX Eagle or Shimano SLX drivetrain, grippier soft-compound tyres and a dropper seatpost (these let you lower your saddle with the flick of a lever for more manoeuvrability on descents). Better-controlled suspension and more refined parts make these bikes handle a lot better in the rough, even if they still feel a little clunky.

£2,300-£4,000

Unless you’re a hardcore hardtail fan, full-sussers take over in this price bracket. Bikes costing this much should be capable of tackling all but the toughest climbs and most fearsome descents. More specialised machines – crosscountry (XC) race rigs, enduro and downhill (DH) bikes, e-MTBs –start to appear. An increased emphasis on performance brings up-to-date geometry and lighter, more elegant frames, with neater cable routing and integrated protection. Carbon fibre starts to become an option, too. As price increases, you can expect considerably better-damped

suspension, as well as more adjustability. Wheels get lighter and tougher, and rims are wider (on trail/enduro bikes) to support higher-volume tyres. You should get a 1x drivetrain as standard.

£4,000-£6,000

At this point, performance gains start to become more marginal. You’ve got plenty of choice here –not just between an aluminium or carbon frame, but steel (including boutique handmade options) and titanium, too. Forks and shocks jump up another tier, and you can expect big-name parts instead of in-house kit. As you go up in price, you’ll see more and more carbon – bars, cranks, wheels, etc. While this adds bling and can save weight, the difference in ride quality is often negligible.

£6,000+

You’re entering the realm of the ‘superbike’ here. If you’re spending this much, you should have a good idea of what you’re looking for –but don’t buy without checking out our testers’ verdicts first!

PURCHASING SECOND-HAND

You can get much more for your money and pick up a real bargain by buying second-hand, but it’s easy to get caught out if you’re not savvy. Here are some things to watch out for:

FRAME

Check scrupulously for fatigue marks on the paint, cracks and dents. Cycle the bike through its suspension travel and pull the rear wheel from side to side to check the state of the pivot bearings and shock bushings.

SUSPENSION AND DROPPER POST

Ask to see service documents and question how frequently the oil/ seals have been changed.

DRIVETRAIN

Examine the wear using a chain checker. If the chain is very old, you may have to budget for a new cassette and chainring, too.

WHEELS

Do they spin true? Check for dents and dings. If a wheel has been buckled and pulled back into line, it won’t last as long.

BUYING DIRECT

More and more brands are cutting out bike shops and distributors and selling directly to their customers, via the internet. For the buyer, this has advantages and disadvantages.

PROS

You’ll get more for your money. By cutting out the middlemen, brands such as Canyon, Commencal, Intense, Propain, Radon, Vitus and YT Industries can turn out top-performing bikes with impressive build kits at extremely competitive prices

Buying a new bike is quick, easy and can be done from the comfort of your sofa

Some websites allow you to swap parts or even spec custom colours so you get exactly the bike you want

CONS

There’s less chance to try before you buy. While some direct-sale brands hold occasional demo days, it’s not as convenient

as dropping into your local shop and sitting on a range of different bikes. Don’t underestimate the value of this, especially if you’re unsure exactly what it is you’re looking for

Lead times can be long. You’ll likely have to order your bike well ahead of time and it’s not uncommon for delivery dates to get pushed back, which risks ruining your summer riding plans!

After-sales support may not be as good. Bikes bought through your local shop will often come with the perk of a free service and, potentially, a loyalty discount on parts. Building up a good rapport with the mechanic (try supplying them with biscuits or beer!) can save a lot of stress if you find you need something fixing at the last minute.

You’re not supporting the UK bike industry. Bike shops can be valuable community hubs and great places to seek advice and meet like-minded people. Use them or lose them!

£2,300-£4,000 £4,000-£6,000 £6,000+

ESSENTIAL RIDING KIT

A bike and helmet are the only two true essentials for riding off-road, but you’ll be a lot happier in proper MTB kit than in a T-shirt, trackies and trainers. That’s because technical cycling clothing is designed to be light yet tough; to allow unrestricted movement; and to ‘wick away’ sweat, in contrast to fabrics like cotton, which quickly become damp and cold. With the right kit, you’ll stay comfortable for longer, so you can focus on having fun. Remember to budget for these basics when buying a bike...

1 HELMET

Find a lid that fits comfortably and securely, or you won’t want to wear it and it won’t protect your brain properly. Try a few on – one that suits your mate’s head shape won’t necessarily work for you. Make sure it meets CE safety standards. Extended rear coverage is a bonus, as is additional safety tech (multi-density foam or a system to reduce rotational forces).

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Bell 4Forty MIPS £89.99 www.zyrofisher.co.uk

2 JERSEY

Look for a lightweight, wicking fabric that’ll keep you cool as things hot up on the trails. Good cycling tops tend to be slightly longer at the rear than at the front, to keep your back covered when you’re bent over in the saddle. Raglan sleeve construction allows easier movement on the bike.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Nukeproof Blackline £45 www.hotlines-uk.com

3 GLOVES

Your hands are often the first things to hit the ground if you fall, so it makes sense to protect them. They’re also in contact with the grips, so can be prone to blisters, and may take knocks and scrapes from undergrowth or foliage.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Scott Ridance £24.99 www.scott-sports.com

4 SHORTS

You’ll be surprised at the difference some well-fitting, stretchy and durable shorts make to your time on the bike. Look for Velcro tabs to adjust the fit, a raised rear waist and a cut that’s neither too slim around the thighs nor too baggy at the crotch.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Rockrider ST 900 £24.99 www.decathlon.co.uk

5 SHOES

MTB-specific shoes help stop your feet getting jolted off the pedals in rough terrain and have stiff soles for efficient power delivery. Start off with flat pedals and flatpedal shoes – it’s easy to get a foot off if things go wrong, and they help teach good technique. Once you’re confident on the bike, you may wish to switch to clipless (aka clip-in/SPD) pedals and shoes – which use a skistyle mechanical binding – for extra security and more powerful pedalling.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Shimano GR5 £79.99 www.freewheel.co.uk

6

KNEE PADS

Crashes are an inevitable, if (hopefully) infrequent, part of mountain biking. Pads provide protection if you fall and can boost confidence, too. You’ll want a pair that allow you to move comfortably and don’t get too hot.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Fox Enduro D3O £52.50 https://uk.foxracing.com

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY...

Unless you have the sort of mind that can study a geometry chart and suspension graph and decipher exactly how a bike will feel, we’d advise trying before buying. Lots of shops offer demo rides and these are a great way to hone in on the sort of ride feel you’re after. Just remember that small differences in tyre pressure and suspension settings can have a big effect, so don’t write off a demo bike before tweaking these a little.

4 FIND THE RIGHT SIZE

Getting a bike that fits you properly is the most important factor. Geometry and sizing aren’t consistent between brands, so always make sure to check the measurements. Don’t be tempted to compromise on fit just because your mate’s raving about a particular bike. If it isn’t quite right for you – the top tube’s a little short or you can’t get the seat low enough, for example – it’ll affect your fun far more than a fancy paint job or a posh suspension fork.

If this is your first new bike in a while, it might surprise you how much longer they’ve got in recent years. This isn’t because we’ve all suddenly got taller, but because designers have figured out that stretched-out bikes with slacker head angles handle far better at speed. Any initial awkwardness you may feel when trying to manoeuvre a bigger bike around will soon disappear (assuming it’s the right size for you) and you’ll wonder how you ever managed on that cramped little ‘kid’s bike’ you had before.

Traditionally, bikes were sized by seat tube length. This is still an important factor, because you need

to ensure you can get the saddle to an efficient height for pedalling, as well as drop it out of the way for descending. However, the advent of long-travel dropper seatposts has permitted bike designers to reduce seat tube lengths. As well as giving more freedom of movement, this allows riders to ‘upsize’ to a larger frame for more length, or vice versa.

Perhaps the most important metric when it comes to how big a bike will feel to ride is its ‘reach’ –the horizontal distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the top of the head tube. This measurement gives a good indication of how stretchedout you’ll feel when standing on the pedals. From surveying our team of MBUK and BikeRadar testers, we found the interesting correlation that our ideal reach in millimetres was consistently between 2.6 and 2.7 times our height in centimetres. This calculation should give you a good starting point. Some brands –notably Specialized – have now moved to reach-based sizing.

For more on bike sizes and measurements, see our ‘Geometry Lessons’ feature in MBUK 375.

PROGRESSIVE GEOMETRY

Most bikes have got longer and slacker over the past few years, as the bigger manufacturers catch up with the progressive geometry pioneered by the likes of Mondraker. But brands such as Nicolai/ GeoMetron, Pole, Airdrop and Privateer are making bikes with notably more extreme head angles and reaches than is the (new) norm. While this superprogressive geometry has potential advantages in terms of control and stability, especially on fast and steep enduro-style tracks, it’s less suited to flatter terrain, and the slightly altered riding style required to reap the benefits won’t suit everyone.

If you’re curious about experimenting with a super-long bike, we’d recommend taking one for a demo ride before buying.

5 SELECT A FRAME MATERIAL

Aluminium (in various alloys) is the most commonly-used material, because it offers a good balance of strength, weight and cost. Chromoly steel is a popular choice with smaller boutique brands, not only because it’s widely available and easy to work with, but also because you can achieve comparable strength to an alloy frame using thinner-walled and smaller-diameter tubes, resulting in a desirable amount of bumpabsorbing ‘compliance’ (flex). This is particularly applicable to hardtails. Titanium does the same with less of a weight penalty, but expect to pay upwards of £1,000 for a Ti frame. ‘Carbon’ has long been one of the buzz words used to ‘upsell’ to bike buyers. To some extent this is justified, because carbon fibre gives designers near-limitless control over frame shapes and ride characteristics, as well as the potential to build incredibly light and strong chassis. Cheaper carbon frames aren’t necessarily laid up with the same care and attention to detail, though. Also, be aware that at lower price points, brands will often spec mid-range or even budget kit to prevent the complete bike from looking too expensive compared to the next (aluminium) model down. A better-specced alloy bike will almost always ride better than a carbon frame with cheap parts.

PRIORITY UPGRADES

Spending a lot of money on a new ride doesn’t guarantee that everything on it will be perfect. We’d advise setting a little money aside for a few essential parts swaps.

SADDLE

Most bikes come with pretty decent perches, but if the ‘one size fits all’ approach doesn’t work for you, consider investing in a seat that better suits your bum before racking up the miles. Ideally, try out a few different shapes.

PEDALS

Because ‘clips versus flats’ is such a personal thing, complete bikes usually come with cheap, throwaway plastic pedals. Spend a bit of money to get yourself a decent pair (or see whether your bike shop will do you a deal on some at the same time as you buy your bike), because keeping your feet where you want them will vastly improve your riding experience.

GO TUBELESS

Ditching the inner tubes and converting to a tubeless wheel/ tyre set-up has several benefits – it lessens the risk of punctures, reduces rotational weight (improving acceleration) and lets you run lower pressures for more grip. You’ll need tubeless-ready rims and tyres, but most new bikes come with these. Then it’s just a case of adding rim strips (in most cases) and tubeless valves, pouring in some

6 TIME TO GET SHOPPING!

Now we’ve outlined the factors to consider, you can start working up your shortlist. Familiarise yourself with what’s out there and use the reviews in our esteemed publication to guide you towards what’s best. Even if you end up buying direct, it’s worth setting a weekend aside to visit shops or go along to a demo day. Out on the trails, keep your eyes peeled to see if anyone’s on a bike you’ve been looking at. Most riders are more than happy to show off their pride and joy, so say “hi” and ask if you can have a bounce! When you go bike shopping, resist the urge to go for the first thing you see, and don’t compromise just because it’s there. Happy shopping and happy trails!

hole-plugging sealant and pumping the tyre up to a high enough pressure to ‘seat’ it on the rim, creating an airtight seal. You’ll need a track pump, but that’s a worthwhile purchase anyway.

TYRES

Brands will often spec tyres with a hard rubber compound, thin sidewalls and a low-profile tread –not just to save the pennies, but also so the bike is lighter on the scales and rolls fast on test rides. These generally suck at gripping the dirt, especially in muddy UK conditions, and can be puncture-prone, too, so buying a replacement set suited to your local trails is often a good move.

WALLETFRIENDLY HARDTAILS

We test a trio of bikes costing less than £1,500 that cover a wide variety of intended uses

MEET THE TESTER

MICK KIRKMAN

TESTER & PHOTOGRAPHER

Yorkshireman Mick raced downhill and four-cross at Elite level back in the day, and still loves riding flat out. That aggressive riding style means he soon picks up on any flaws, so if he recommends a bike at any price, you can be confident it shouldn’t let you down.

If you’re serious about mountain biking, we’d advise budgeting at least £1,000 for a bike. Spend less, and either the geometry or the parts – especially the suspension –are likely to be significantly compromised. It’s safer to stick with a hardtail, too, at the cheaper end of the market, because you’ll get better kit for the money, although there are occasional full-suspension bargains to be had. Here, we’re testing three bikes in the competitive sub-£1,500 bracket. They’re all priced within £150 of each other, but ride very differently. Sonder’s Frontier NX is aimed more at the two-wheeled explorer than the Monster Energy-slurping bad boy. It’s an ‘adventure’ mountain bike, not far-removed from a milemunching, drop-handlebar gravel bike. As such, it’s optimised for big rides and carrying kit and cargo into the wilds, more than messing about on tracks in the woods. Next up is Kona’s Kahuna, once a traditional cross-country (XC) bike, now a modern-looking, low-slung hardtail with sharp and lively handling. It’s designed for the kind of riding where you’ll hit up a few purpose-built trails one day, play around on looser dirt the next, then maybe get some big

miles in. The final machine, GT’s Zaskar, is far more stretched-out and ready for heavy-duty action. Its 130mm suspension fork has more travel than the others here, plus plusher coil-sprung internals. Pair this with a get-yoursaddle-out-the-way dropper post and slack geometry, and the GT can handle higher speeds and jumps without spitting out its dummy.

We’re not just going by the manufacturers’

BOY

claims, either. During testing it was clear each bike has a distinct feel that’s close to what’s advertised, with multiple pros and cons to the differing approaches. Which one is best for you will depend on your personal preferences.

THIS BIKE IS AIMED MORE AT THE TWO-WHEELED EXPLORER THAN THE MONSTER ENERGY-SLURPING BAD

1 SONDER FRONTIER NX EAGLE

£1,199

With a full SRAM NX Eagle 12-speed drivetrain and Guide brakes, the Sonder Frontier looks like decent value on paper. Designed as a versatile aluminium hardtail for everything from trail-centre bombing to bikepacking, it has slightly more traditional, upright geometry than the other bikes here, intended to keep the rider comfortable all day long. Sold by leading UK outdoor brand Alpkit, it rolls on 29in wheels and is available either as a fully-rigid bike or with 100mm of front suspension, as tested here.

£1,199

The Kahuna is one of Kona’s classic butted-aluminium hardtails. Refined over many years, the latest frame gains longer and more stable geometry than its predecessors, but is still the direct descendant of XC machines whose design leant more towards speed and covering distance in comfort, rather than jumping or downhilling. Kona have packed the Kahuna with well thought-out components from leading brands, so you get a RockShox fork, a Shimano 12-speed drivetrain and brakes, and Maxxis tyres.

3 GT ZASKAR LT ELITE

£1,350

GT’s Zaskar has been around for what feels like forever. This latest version still rocks the brand’s signature ‘Triple Triangle look’, launched in the ’90s, but has the most modern geometry on test, including a slacker head angle, which puts the front tyre further in front of you for a more stable ride at speed and down steep descents. There are a couple of less-common parts on the spec sheet – an SR Suntour Zeron fork (with coil spring) and Tektro Gemini brakes – along with a 12-speed SRAM NX/SX Eagle drivetrain.

DETAILS RANGER DANGER

While the tread of the Sonder’s WTB Ranger tyres looks similar to that of the Trail Bosses on the GT, the off-road grip is leagues behind in the wet

CRANK IT UP

The SRAM NX Eagle cranks use the brand’s wide DUB axle for extra strength and solidity

FALLING SHORT

A 440mm reach on a size-large bike is very short by contemporary standards. It makes it feel more nervous at speed than longer rigs

jargon

ADVENTURE RIDING

Taking to the hills with all the gear you need for extended rides or sleepovers.

REACH

The distance from the centre of the bottom bracket (BB) to the centre-top of the head tube. This measurement gives a good indication of how a bike will feel when you’re standing on the pedals, with a longer reach adding more stability when you’re out of the saddle.

SONDER FRONTIER NX EAGLE

£1,199 Do-it-all versatility and plenty of capability for touring and adventures

Sonder offer a big hardtail range, from gravel-friendly expedition bikes, through trad XC machines, to slacked-out ‘all-mountain’ models. The Frontier sits somewhere in the middle, targeting ‘multi-activity’ riding, or everything from trail centres and bridleways to adventure riding.

THE FRAME

The Frontier looks a little old-fashioned, with its high top tube, short reach (just 440mm on the large size we tested) and mid-length 445mm chainstays. Its geometry is designed around a 100mm-travel suspension fork, or a rigid one with the same axle-to-crown measurement. The BB shell is slightly higher than on most hardtails, for extra ground clearance, while the bearings themselves are housed in a practical threaded (rather than press-fit) unit,

which shouldn’t creak and will be easier to fix or replace. Up front is an hourglass-shaped head tube, while the seatstays curve down to forged dropouts for a bolt-through axle. The latest Boost 148mm spacing spreads the hub flanges further apart for a stronger wheel. There’s clearance for a fat 27.5x3in or chunky 29x2.5in rear tyre.

Triple bottle mounts will hold enough fluids for out-there rides. There are eyelets for a mudguard or (if you fit a seat clamp with integrated mounts) a luggage rack. The gear cable and rear brake hose are routed internally, and there’s a port in case you want to upgrade to a dropper post in future.

THE KIT

This build is based around SRAM’s NX Eagle drivetrain, which boasts a big 50t cassette sprocket for easier climbing.

NX is getting on for feeling as solid and smooth as pricier SRAM kit these days, with its stiffer DUB axle and crisper shifting. The same brand’s Guide T brakes are plenty powerful enough for most, even with a smaller 160mm rear rotor. There’s no dropper, but the own-brand rigid post is well-finished, as are the stubby stem and wide bar, which sharpen up the steering. Sonder’s Nova wheels seem tough, but feel a little lethargic when accelerating, and are heavy. Quality WTB Ranger tyres in a 29x2.4in width provide decent cushioning and roll well, but the tread pattern and harder rubber aren’t that good under braking or in the wet.

THE RIDE

This bike gets about efficiently, with nimble handling that makes it easy to thread along twisty trails and through

tight gaps. With its stubby stem and relatively steep 68-degree head angle, it has a quick steering response, so you can pick precise lines at slower speeds up steeper climbs. On flatter terrain, the geometry puts you in a comfortable, upright pedalling position.

The frame feels stiffer and more direct than the smoother and betterdamped GT chassis, but lacks the punchy surge of the Kona under acceleration or uphill. One reason for this could be the heavier wheels ‘winding up’ under load; it appears some energy is lost through the spokes and there’s a big lag in freewheel engagement when stomping on the pedals. Once up to speed, it’s easy to maintain pace on the Sonder, with the Ranger tyres rolling fast, especially on gravel roads and trail-centre loops.

For aggressive mountain biking, the Frontier wouldn’t be our first choice. The Guide T brakes are dialled and the air-sprung RockShox Recon Silver RL fork irons out bumps effectively, but the Sonder transmits more feedback

and trail vibrations to your hands and feet than the other bikes when the going gets rougher. At higher speeds, it feels a bit nervous, with a taller ride position and less assured feel than its rivals, particularly when faced with bigger trail features and small jumps.

It shares its fork with the Kona, where we had issues with it bottomingout. We didn’t have the same problem here, because testers weren’t prepared to ‘open the throttle’ on the Frontier to the same extent – in part due to the seat tube bottle mount restricting how far you can lower the saddle, but mainly because it doesn’t inspire confidence in even slightly technical terrain. This isn’t the Frontier’s specialisation, obviously, but the choppier ride won’t best suit bumpy adventures, either.

HIGHS

NX Eagle drivetrain shifts smoothly and cranks feel solid –Decent value LOWS

Handling doesn’t feel fully engaged on ‘proper’ MTB trails –Slightly undamped ride quality

FOR A LITTLE LESS

Sonder Frontier SX Eagle £999

Essentially the same bike but with SRAM’s cheaper and flexier SX Eagle drivetrain and XC-rated Level brakes.

FOR A LITTLE MORE

Sonder Frontier Deore £1,249

As well as the more solid-feeling, superior 12-speed Deore group, you also get a lighter set of wheels.

Sonder’s Frontier is responsive but stiffer and less damped-feeling than some all-day adventure rivals

DETAILS

DRIVETRAIN DOWNGRADES

While the Sonder gets full NX Eagle, the GT comes with cheaper SRAM SX Eagle parts, including an older PowerSpline axle and internal-style BB

STRONG AND STABLE

Modern geometry makes the GT feel calmer and less hectic at speed, by dulling the way trail features might upset the ride

DROP IT DOWN

The Zaskar is the only bike on test with a dropper post, which lets you get the seat out of the way on the fly for more control on the descents

jargon

TRIPLE TRIANGLE

Trademark GT frame design where the seatstays overlap the seat tube and join the top tube under the nose of the saddle, forming an extra triangle.

TWITCHY STEERING

Some bikes can feel too reactive and responsive to handlebar inputs, making them harder to control at speed. The GT doesn’t fall prey to this.

GT ZASKAR LT ELITE

£1,350 Same old silhouette, bang-up-to-date ride feel and handling

The Zaskar has a proud heritage. It was the go-to hardtail for more aggro riding in the 1990s, and has continued to evolve ever since. This latest version doesn’t look too dissimilar to one from 30 years ago, although the stretched-out sizing, bigger wheels and relaxed head angle mean it rides very differently.

THE FRAME

It wouldn’t be a Zaskar if it didn’t sport GT’s familiar ‘Triple Triangle’ design. On this new version, the seatstays are decoupled from the seat tube to give a ‘floating’ connection between seatpost (and therefore saddle) and rear axle; the theory, presumably, being that fewer vibrations are transferred to the rider when the back tyre hits a bump. This effect is most isolating when seated, but it also smoothed out

the ride while standing up downhill or pedalling over rough ground.

The geometry is contemporary, and includes a longer, more stable wheelbase than on the other bikes here; a slacker head angle, which stops the steering feeling twitchy at speed; and a more upright seat tube angle, to keep the saddle over the cranks up steep climbs for good power transfer. GT have nailed the numbers for an all-round hardtail and it rides very naturally.

They’ve also gone with sensible standards, including a less creak-prone threaded BB and the improved wheel stiffness permitted by a Boost 148mm axle. Unfortunately, the internallyrouted cables rattle like crazy when riding and the sound is infuriating, especially when combined with the chain hitting the seatstay, which lacks any noise-damping protection.

THE KIT

The names Tektro and SR Suntour may not be as familiar as the likes of RockShox, Shimano or Fox. However, both firms have been around for years and make decent kit. The GT’s Suntour Zeron fork has 130mm of travel –30mm more than the other bikes – and a supple coil spring that makes it great at tracking the ground for extra grip and comfort. Its lack of adjustment (relative to an air-sprung fork, where you can tweak the pressure to suit different riders) rings alarm bells, but actually, it works really well. Sadly, the same can’t be said for the Tektro Gemini SL brakes – with small rotors, they lack power and feel, and aren’t a match for the brand’s pricier TRP kit.

SRAM’s 12-speed SX Eagle drivetrain is a bit clunky and underwhelming, although it drives wheels with Shimano hubs and WTB ST i30 rims that leave little to complain about. Our test bike had WTB Trail Boss tyres, too, instead of the listed WTB Breakouts, and these worked great in a range of conditions.

The Zaskar costs the most here, but it’s the only one with a dropper post –a ride-transforming component that allows you to attack in tricky sections without feeling inhibited by the saddle.

THE RIDE

With more suspension and a way better-damped frame than the others on test, the Zaskar is a seriously smooth operator. With quiet confidence, it ticks off serious trails and challenging steeper sections, and is a lot of fun to ride, with good balance, and a ton of grip from the front tyre. GT’s floating seatstays also seem to be a winner, since there’s good pedalling comfort when seated, even over seriously choppy terrain.

One thing that isn’t quiet, sadly, is the Zaskar frame. Even with the supple coil fork, it’s distractingly rattly on descents and has an intermittent pingy metallic sound that niggles when rolling along singletrack, due to the aforementioned cabling and chain-slap issues – things GT should have sorted

out. The extra noise may be partly explained by the fact testers were happy to go twice as fast downhill on the Zaskar, though, thanks to the longer reach delivering a really stable base to balance from. The slacker head angle places the front tyre way out in front, too, for an assured steering feel that’s never twitchy or nervous and helps boost rider cockiness.

The cranks can feel a bit twisty under the leverage of big pedals, but even with more fork bounce and a hefty 15.9kg all-in weight, this rig is no slouch when it comes to getting about between the descents, and excels on jumps, too. The steep seat tube gives a hips-forward saddle position with good ergonomics for climbing, and there’s plenty of fizz and zing when stomping on the pedals to reach the next fun bit.

HIGHS

Suntour Zeron fork is basic, but irons out the trail sting nicely and has good damping support

WTB Trail Boss tyres aren’t the advertised spec, but grip great, so we had no complaints about the swap

Short stem and wide bar put you in precise control

LOWS

Sounds like a bag of spanners in a tin can at times

Two kilos heavier than the others

FOR A LITTLE LESS

GT Avalanche Expert £1,250

There’s no cheaper Zaskar. The top Avalanche gets a RockShox Recon fork and Shimano brakes, but has more traditional geometry.

FOR A LITTLE MORE

GT Zaskar LT Expert £1,650

The only other Zaskar boosts the kit quality, with powerful Shimano brakes, a ‘Gold’ level RockShox fork and Maxxis Minion tyres.

Great handling and a smooth ride –worthy of a higher score if it wasn’t so rattly and noisy

DETAILS

BRILLIANT BRAKES

Shimano’s MT410 stoppers are powerful, controlled and fantastic for the money

TAKE A SEAT

A dropper seatpost would be preferable, but at least the Kona’s rigid post is topped with a super-comfy WTB Volt saddle

POWER TO THE PEDALS

The 12-speed Shimano Deore drivetrain is the best you can get for this kind of cash.

jargon

Q.R.

Quick- release – a fastening system that uses a levered clamp with a cam inside to hold things tight. Often found on seatpost collars and, on cheaper bikes, wheels.

LOW-SLUNG FRAME

Design with a steeply-sloping top tube, which makes it easier to get on and off the bike, and provides more legroom when riding dynamically.

KONA KAHUNA

£1,199 A sorted ride for bridleway-bashing and trail centres

Kona’s Kahuna is another bike that’s been around for decades and continually refined. The geometry and design intentions of this latest iteration lean towards XC/trail efficiency, but its low-slung shape means you can chuck it about a bit, too.

THE FRAME

Back in the ’90s, Kona’s bikes always rocked compact front triangles, and, over time, the rest of the industry caught up. It’s easy to see why – the Kahuna’s sloping top tube keeps the frame out of the way when you’re standing and leaning to aid steering, or using body manoeuvres to absorb bumps and maximise trail speed. This latest version has a butted (ie. the tubes vary in thickness along their length for the best balance of strength

and weight) aluminium frame with a big, curvy down tube and a reinforcing gusset at the seat tower. The rear stays splay out wide for good mud clearance, run in line with the top tube and feed down to a Kona-branded forged dropout area. This is the only bike on test with a QR rear axle. It’s less stiff and secure than a bolt-through set-up, but most riders will struggle to notice.

THE KIT

The 12-speed Shimano Deore drivetrain feels super-solid and smooth-shifting, with stiff cranks and a broad gear range for all types of climbs. Aside from weighing more, it’s hard to tell that you’re not on the brand’s pricier XT kit (found on bikes costing up to £10k). Shimano supply their budget MT410 brakes, too, which also trump the others on test. These

have tons of power, but not so much grab that the wheels lock up unexpectedly, and long levers that give newer riders plenty of options to position their fingers.

While the Kona handlebar looks weird, it put your hands in a sweet spot, in terms of sweep. It also provides a good steering balance with the longer stem, which contributes to a more stretched-out riding stance. This puts your head further forward for a more urgent, attacking pedal position that well suits the overall Kahuna vibe.

Bad kit points are the old-school, skinny (135mm) QR rear axle, plus it’s a shame that the Kona’s standover clearance isn’t maximised with a dropper post, to get the saddle right out of the way. Frame ports are provided for one, though, and you can pick up a decent aftermarket dropper for not much over £100.

THE RIDE

Jump on the Kona and it’s easy to ride, and zips about with a really lively feel.

There’s excellent acceleration when cranking hard, and the alloy frame is just about smooth enough to maintain speed over the kind of bobbly surfaces with small embedded stones that are typical of mellower off-road trails. Steering is sharp but wellbalanced for XC-style riding. There are no quirks or surprises when darting through trees or teetering across tricky passages, and whether we were standing up and looking ahead on skinny singletrack or cruising on longer seated rides, we didn’t suffer any of the aches and pains that some hardtails dish out. The Kahuna climbs fast, too, even on loose dirt, where the spiky Maxxis Forekaster rear tyre finds traction on grass and slime where other test bikes started to wheelspin. Venture somewhere more adventurous and the tyres still have your back, gripping consistently on all surfaces, right up to quite muddy or churned-up earth. This is a major bonus in the UK, and means the Kona will work well in all weathers, and all

without a serious dent in its rolling speed. One thing to be aware of is that because the Kahuna handles so well, it eggs you on to start trucking along at GT Zaskar-like speeds, and you can get in over your head. It does still have quite traditional geometry and a longer stem, and experienced testers soon found its limits –particularly those of its 100mm RockShox Recon Silver RL fork, which smashes through all of its travel with a clunk if the wheels leave the ground for too long on drops or jumps.

If you like to test your fitness on blue trails or just enjoy getting out in the great outdoors, the Kahuna looks and rides great. It’s just not that optimised for more aggressive downhill terrain or the best bike for a gung-ho teenager looking to be the next slopestyle star.

HIGHS

From the first pedal stroke, the Kahuna is a balanced, intuitive ride –

Looks great, with a curvy, low-slung silhouette –

Excellent drivetrain and brakes for the price

LOWS

More traditional geometry and lack of a dropper post limits downhill capability

FOR A LITTLE LESS

Kona Mahuna £949

Exactly the same geometry, but with a heavier frame and cheaper kit, including a RockShox Judy fork, Tektro brakes and 11-speed Deore.

FOR A LITTLE MORE

Kona Kahuna DL £1,699

Mountain

Kona have nailed the ride quality, and the good brakes and low-slung frame boost confidence if you’re feeling frisky

SPEC DECK

Zeron 35, 130mm travel (coil spring)

60mm/Kona Key slip-on

SEATPOST/SADDLE Sonder rigid/Sonder Abode

TranzX dropper/WTB Silverado Sport

Kona Thumb rigid/WTB Volt

DIMENSIONS

Sonder’s Frontier is responsive but stiffer and less damped-feeling than some all-day adventure rivals

Great handling and a smooth ride –worthy of a higher score if it wasn’t so rattly and noisy

Kona have nailed the ride, and good brakes and a low-slung frame boost confidence if you’re feeling frisky

KOThe three bikes here represent just how differently similar-looking hardtails can ride once you hit the dirt. In terms of capability and sheer fun, for dynamic riding on purpose-built trails, the Kona and GT feel leagues ahead of the Sonder. That’s partially to be expected, considering that Alpkit’s design intentions for the Frontier lean more towards all-day rides and bikepacking. However, we weren’t totally sold on its ride quality anywhere, either in terms of how easy it was to adapt to its steering and handling, or of its comfort and

damping, since the frame feels a bit jarring over choppy ground.

GT’s Zaskar and Kona’s Kahuna, on the other hand, are both sorted bikes, albeit quite different beasts. The longer, calmerfeeling GT is much more capable on rougher, more technical trails and gets closer towards an aggro-hardtail attitude. It bombs downhill and hits gap jumps brilliantly, and has a stable, safe feel to it, while still being chuckable. Sadly, it’s one of the noisiest bikes we’ve tested for ages, and you might be entering into a world of pain trying to

quieten the cables rattling around inside its frame. Frankly, GT should have sorted this on such a good bike.

That leaves Kona’s easy-to-adapt-to, fast and urgent-feeling Kahuna, which is simply a sorted bike for everyday riding. With its solid Deore drivetrain and Shimano brakes, it feels efficient from the get-go, even without a bolt-through rear axle or dropper post. The Maxxis Forekaster tyres boost performance by working well in all conditions, and the Kona also looks fantastic, with its compact frame and swanky paint job.

WORKSHOP SKILLS

BASIC MOUNTAIN BIKE SET-UP

Follow these tips to make sure your bike fits you well and performs at its best

ESSENTIAL TOOLS

• Allen key set

• Tyre pump

• Shock pump

1 SADDLE POSITION

Loosen the bolts on the seatpost head. Slide the saddle forward if you want to centre your weight over the bottom bracket for more efficient climbing, or back for a more relaxed feel. Set the top of the seat level or with the nose slightly downward, to avoid it putting too much pressure on your delicate bits. Then retighten the bolts, a little at a time, to maintain this angle.

2 SADDLE HEIGHT

For general riding, your saddle needs to be high enough so you can pedal efficiently, but not so high that your hips start to rock or you can barely reach the pedals. A good guide is to sit on the bike with one crank arm pointing directly down and adjust the saddle height until your heel just reaches the pedal. To do this, loosen the seat-clamp bolt or quick-release lever, slide the seatpost up or down in the frame, then retighten the bolt/lever. On downhills, getting the saddle out of the way improves manoeuvrability. If your bike has a dropper seatpost, you can lower the saddle with the press of a lever; if not, consider dropping the post manually into the frame before descents.

8 TYRE PRESSURES

For an average-weight rider running modern wider tyres (2.35in+) with a trail or enduro casing (eg. Maxxis EXO, Schwalbe SuperTrail), we’d recommend starting with pressures in the low 20s (psi) for general riding, for maximum grip and comfort. If you’re particularly heavy or aggressive, regularly ride rocky terrain or find that tyres run at this pressure feel ‘nervous’ in corners or pinch-puncture too easily, try adding a few more psi. Lighter riders or those running bigger tyres may be able to get away with less pressure.

7 OTHER CONTROLS

Fit the gear shifter(s) and dropper seatpost remote (if applicable) around the brake levers. Loosen the bolt securing the controls, then adjust the position and angle for the most ergonomic feel. You may need to position the shifter on the other side of the brake lever.

3 HANDLEBAR HEIGHT

Bar height takes experimentation to get right, so that your weight is well-distributed between the grips, saddle and pedals. A good starting point is to set the grips so they’re level with the saddle at full pedalling height (this may not be possible if you have long legs). To adjust bar height, remove the headset top-cap, loosen the stem’s steerer-clamp bolts and slide it off the fork steerer. Move spacers from above the stem to below it to raise the bar height, or vice versa. Refit the stem and top-cap, tightening the latter just enough to preload the headset bearings. Align the stem at 90 degrees to the fork crown and do up the steerer-clamp bolts to the recommended torque setting.

4 HANDLEBAR ROLL

Your position on the bike can be further adjusted by rotating the bar within the stem. Rolling it forward will move your weight toward the front, and vice versa. Start with the bar tips pointing a few degrees up from horizontal. Loosen the top two stem faceplate bolts enough to freely rotate the bar, adjust and retighten. Repeat until you’re happy.

5 SUSPENSION BASICS

6

BRAKE LEVER POSITION

Loosen the clamp bolt(s) until you can slide the lever along the bar. Place your hand on the grip and find the position where your index finger sits comfortably on the edge of the lever blade, for maximum leverage. Retighten the bolt(s) enough to hold the lever in place. Set it at an angle that’s comfortable for your hand and wrist – generally, between 30 and 45 degrees below horizontal – then do up the bolt(s). Aligning your eye with the stem and tyre, adjust the other lever to match the first. If your brakes have reach adjustment, turn the dial or bolt so the pads bite with the lever at a comfy distance from the bar.

Use the manufacturer’s chart to find a ballpark spring pressure for your fork or rear shock, based on your weight. Inflate the air spring to this pressure, with a shock pump. Now to set the ‘sag’ – the travel left in reserve so that the wheel(s) can extend into holes, not just absorb bumps. Sit on the bike, in your riding gear. Bounce hard on the pedals to get the suspension moving. Reset the O-ring at the bottom of the fork leg or shock shaft, then carefully assume the ‘attack position’ (pedals level, knees bent, elbows forward). Use the O-ring to see how much the suspension sags into its travel. Add or reduce air pressure until you get around 20 per cent sag on the fork and 30 per cent on the shock. For a firmer ride, run more sag, and vice versa. Next, set the rebound damping, turning the dial until the suspension re-extends evenly and quickly after being compressed, but without feeling bouncy. If your fork has external compression damping adjustment, this can be used to provide a firmer pedalling platform and more to push against in corners, at the expense of reduced comfort. Start with the damping fully open and adjust from there. For more in-depth suspension advice, BikeRadar have a great video:

THE FUNDAMENTALS FOR NEW MOUNTAIN BIKERS

Coach-to-the-pros Olly Morris shares his top tips for aspiring shredders

It’s fantastic to see the world of mountain biking growing at the rate it is, with people of all abilities and ages getting involved. The amazing thing about our sport is that you can buy a bike and immediately start riding off-road – with no training, you can just pedal off into the woods to have fun. However, there are some basic pointers that’ll help improve your experience. I’ve broken these down into Key Skills, which is what you need to do on the bike, and Key Controls, explaining how to use your brakes, gears and dropper seatpost.

2. HOLD ON

The key here is to stay light, loose and relaxed. Grip the bar tightly enough that your palms don’t slip, but not so much that your hands get fatigued. If you’re gripping hard then you’ll tense up through your arms and shoulders, too. Also, make sure you’re not leaning on the bar – this makes it hard to balance because your weight makes the bar move. Instead, use your core to support your upper body. The bar is there for directional control and the pedals are there to provide a platform. To help you stop leaning on the bar, keep a bend in your elbows. This can be tricky, but if you make it second nature from the outset, it’ll help immensely as the technicality of the trails you’re riding increases.

KEY SKILLS

1. STAND UP

One of the first things any mountain biker must learn is how to comfortably stand up on a bike while it’s rolling along. Imagine you’re standing on the ground and want maximum balance and stability. What do you do? You find a level surface, keep your legs slightly bent and plant your feet on the floor, with weight on your heels, not your tiptoes. If you transfer this across to standing on the pedals, the first point is to keep your cranks level (your flat ground), then apply weight through your heels, plus keep your legs ‘energised’ and ready to move. Once you’re balanced and comfortable standing up while rolling along, the next step is to practise standing up and pedalling. It’s useful to pull on the handlebar to help you balance and give you some leverage when applying power to the pedals.

4. RIDE RELAXED

This may seem obvious (and is something that helps with most aspects of life), but try to relax. When you’re new to riding it can be extremely hard to do this, so the first step is to successfully execute the other key skills of standing up, holding on and looking ahead. Try to keep your muscles relaxed and breathe steadily. I see many riders, of all levels, holding their breath when they’re nervous or tackling a challenging section of trail. This only makes it harder to ride, so try to breathe normally. It’s easy to assume that if your muscles are tight, you’re more likely to stay upright, but it actually has the opposite effect. I’d advise allowing the bike to move freely under you, as that’ll give you more balance.

3. LOOK DOWN THE TRAIL

When people are new to mountain biking, it’s common for them to have their eyes down watching their front wheel. However, this won’t stop you crashing – in fact, it makes accidents more likely because you won’t be looking where you’re going. Practise looking further down the trail so you can see what’s coming next and start preparing for it. For example, if you see a climb ahead, you’ll know to select the correct gear for pedalling up it, or if there’s a corner coming up, you’ll need to apply the brakes to slow down before you reach it. How far down the trail should you look? I’d focus on whatever the next ‘obstacle’ is, so if you’re riding along a straight and can see a corner, that’s what you want to keep your eyes on. It can take some time to do this consistently, so practise consciously until it becomes the norm. You’ll find keeping your eyes up helps you ride trails with more ‘flow’.

BRAKES

First, make sure both levers are set up so you can reach them easily without moving your hands on the grips. Loosen the bar clamp and position the lever so that when your index finger is extended, it sits comfortably near the end of the lever blade. You want the lever to be at a slight downward angle – about 45 degrees. Remember, you brake most when going downhill, so don’t have the lever pointing to the ground or

GEARS

Most modern MTBs have a ‘1x’ drivetrain, meaning you only change gear at the back so only need one shifter. Some bikes have two, or even three, chainrings at the front so will have two shifters. You use your thumb to operate most shifters, sometimes your index finger too. As with brakes, take time to set up the shifter so you can reach it without moving your hand and it takes the minimum effort to change gear. Experiment with

DROPPER SEATPOST

A dropper post allows you to lower your saddle with the press of a lever. Not everyone has one, but they’re fairly standard on modern full-suspension mountain bikes as well as more expensive hardtails. Once you’ve tried one we’re pretty sure you won’t want to go back to a fixed seatpost. Again, set up the dropper’s remote lever in a comfortable, easy-to-use position on the bar. Next, set the post’s height

WHERE TO RIDE

You can learn to mountain bike anywhere that’s not too technically demanding, but a trail centre – a forest hub with waymarked, ability-graded routes, parking, toilets and often a cafe, too – is a safe and convenient place to start. There are blue-graded beginner routes all over the country; these are some of our favourites.

KEY CONTROLS

it’ll pull your weight too far forward. When learning to ride, the key is to get comfortable with brake feel. Often, beginners will get scared and lock up the brakes, but they aren’t just an on/off toggle. You can ‘feather’ them lightly when you want to scrub off just a little speed, or pull harder (but still smoothly) for more stopping power. Learning the feel, or ‘modulation’, of your brakes early on will help you develop your technique.

its position so it feels comfortable whether you’re seated or standing. As for choosing the correct gear and timing your shifting, the trick is to plan ahead. Changing gear usually requires a full pedal rotation for the chain to shift to the correct sprocket on your cassette. If you’re approaching a climb, change into an easier gear (the larger cogs) in good time; as you near a descent, shift onto a smaller sprocket.

in the seat tube so that when it’s fully extended the saddle is in your optimum seated pedalling position. Dropper posts are really useful to get the saddle out of the way and create more space to move about on the bike when riding downhill. However, if you’re new to riding it’s easy to forget to put the post down when you’re about to descend. A good tip is to adjust your dropper just after you’ve selected a gear.

SCOTLAND

There are loads of great options north of the border, but our favourite has to be the Blue Route at Glentress Forest. In fact, it’s so good that last year we declared it to be Britain’s best blue trail. What makes it so good? Even the climb is entertaining, as it twists through beautiful woodland, with wide-reaching views over the Tweed Valley and multiple line options for those wanting a challenge. The descent, meanwhile, includes everything from sweeping turns and arcing berms to opportunities to get air as it carves its way through the forest. This trail really gives you a sense of what mountain biking’s all about. For details of more fun Scottish blue routes, visit https://forestryandland.gov.scot

WALES

While Coedy-Brenin and Brechfa have decent beginner cross-country loops and Cwmcarn has a short blue descent that’s tons of fun, Wales offers a UK-first riding experience for MTB noobs in the form of the uplifted trails at BikePark Wales. With a van and trailer to whisk you and your bike to the top, fitness is less of an issue (although you can ride up if you prefer), and there are some great blue runs to choose from, including the UK’s longest, Terry’s Belly. It’s the Sixtapod/Willy Waver combo that’s our pick of the bunch, though, as it’s packed with flow from top to bottom. Also worth checking out is the new beginner-focused Dare Valley Gravity Bike Park, a halfhour drive down the road.

ENGLAND

English riders are less spoiled for choice than their counterparts to the north and west, but there are a handful of decent blues scattered across the country, from Cardinham Woods in Cornwall to Whinlatter in the Lake District. For us, the newly-revamped Verderer’s Trail at the Forest of Dean, in Gloucestershire, takes top honours, with some punchy (but never too long) climbs to test your fitness and grin-inducing rollercoaster singletrack as your reward, plus a skills area and pump track on the way back to the cafe, where you can work on your skills.

FOR MORE GREAT BEGINNER TRAILS...

Check out our three-part Blues Cruise series in MBUK395, 396 and 397 (back issues available at www.buysubscriptions. com/back-issues).