Down in the Engelberg valley, in central Switzerland, we discover green pastures, gentle landscapes and the hustle and bustle of village life with its culture and handicrafts. While in the mountains, nature, spectacular wilderness and tranquillity dominate. Engelberg brings these two worlds together in a wonderful setting that can be explored in many different ways, making it a particularly attractive holiday destination – in summer or winter.

BY ANDREA HURSCHLER*

Engelberg is a high valley in the midst of Switzerland’s most beautiful mountains. This panorama can be overwhelming at first, but seemingly isolated from the rest of the world, it’s surprising how we quickly relax and begin to explore.

MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS AND IMPRESSIVE TRADITIONS

Standing in the hollow of the valley since 1120, the Benedictine monastery is a very special, tranquil place, and has helped to put Engelberg on the map. According to legend, the monastery was built here thanks to an ox! Zurich nobleman, Konrad von Sellenbüren, believed the creature would show him the optimum spot and it eventually chose Engelberg. Behind the thick walls, the impressive interior reveals a place for us to reflect. However, although it is the village’s defining feature, our gaze always turns to the mountains.

Titlis, Hahnen and Gross Spannort are the three best-known and most distinctive peaks. Hahnen was formerly known as ‘Engelberg’ because legend claims angels flew around it. Hahnen and Spannort can be explored only on foot and with appropriate climbing gear. Rarely does a person feel as small and yet as grand as they do up here. Titlis has been accessible by cable car since 1967 and so is easier to get to.

The ‘Rotair’ – the world’s first revolving cable car – takes us on the final section. Arriving at the top, at 3,020 metres above sea level, we alight in a different world: one of snow and glacier, 365 days a year. A ride on the Ice Flyer chairlift over impressive crevasses, a journey across the windy ‘Cliff Walk’ suspension bridge, and a tour of the glacier grotto make this visit unforgettable.

ACTIVELY EXPERIENCE NATURE

Other cable cars take you quickly and easily from the bottom of the valley to the mountains where you can enjoy many activities such as hiking, biking, climbing, and of course winter sports such as skiing and snowboarding. On the Titlis side is the extraordinarily beautiful Trübsee mountain lake. It’s a good spot to pause and enjoy the view of the mountains reflected in the lake or take out a rowing boat. The Fürenalp is just as impressive. You might not relish the idea of a ride on the small train from the end of the valley up to 1,850 metres above sea level, but it’s worth it. The mountains seem close enough to touch!

There are countless small cable cars known as ‘Buiräbähnli’ in the Engelberg Valley which were once used by mountain farmers. They are now part of the unique Buiraebähnlisafari, a hiking tour incorporating several rides on different, sometimes spectacular Buiräbähnli. Fun fact: the Brändlen Cable Car is also used to transport the stocky Dexter cattle! On the Alpkäsetrail, a similar hiking tour, we visit seven Alpine cheesemakers. We enjoy the view, while sampling the finest Alpine cheese. It’s difficult to choose a favourite, but we can reveal that Rosmarie Hurschler from Hüttismatt and Sälmi Töngi from Gerschnialp have won various prizes.

Experiencing first-hand the exhausting life on summer farms, we get fascinating insights into cheese production. It quickly becomes clear why Alpine cheese tastes so good. The herbs growing on the unfertilised, species-rich pastures are particularly aromatic which is reflected in the milk, and therefore in the cheese itself.

Some of these cheesemakers are located on the sunny Brunni side of Engelberg. People from the misty lowlands are especially drawn to this area, made popular because of its high levels of sunshine and varied, family-friendly activities.

For a spot of natural wellbeing, we take a tour around the Härzlisee, next to the Brunnihütte, and walk barefoot along a ‘tickle path’ encircling the small lake. One of the most beautiful high-altitude hiking trails starts here at 1,860 metres above sea level. The Walenpfad leads into the Bannalp area and offers unobstructed views of the Mittelland.

CULTURE AND CUISINE

The valley is also full of traditions and experiences waiting to be discovered. The Tal Museum, an old Engelberg farmhouse, is a house of stories. It’s striking before you even step inside because of the coats of arms emblazoned on its façade. Alongside that of the municipality, 17 other coats of arms represent distinguished Engelberg families. Inside the museum, the historic living quarters reflect everyday life in the 18th century and we learn fascinating things about the distinctive local dialect, and the history of the valley. The traditional crafts, still practised in the valley, are one of its many delights. In Wolfenschiessen, Beat Mathis artistically embroiders cowbell straps. In the Blatter Holzkunst souvenir shop, next door to Kempinksi Palace Engelberg, Werni Blatter creates impressive wooden figures.

The valley also has a variety of restaurants and it’s worth leaving the village centre to discover local eateries serving traditional Swiss cuisine. Look out for Ende der Welt, Schwand, and Gasthaus Gerschnialp. It’s this combination of modern and traditional; mountain and valley; being active and relaxing, that makes Engelberg truly unique!

* Freelance journalist, Andrea Hurschler, grew up in Engelberg and still lives there with her family. She contributes to various publications and has written several articles about Engelberg.

Embraced by the majestic Swiss mountains that attract visitors to Engelberg-Titlis, Kempinski Palace Engelberg is the first international five-star hotel in Central Switzerland’s largest allseason holiday destination. With a history rooted in the Belle Epoque, this beautiful property has a genuine sense of place at the centre of the village. The two are intertwined and have grown together to create a truly magical location.

Successful Engelberg hotelier, Eduard Cattani, commissioned his brother Arnold, a renowned architect, to design the property. The first building in the country with central heating, it opened its doors in 1904 as Grandhotel Winterhaus, and became known far beyond Switzerland’s borders.

Recent renovations have continued its story with the addition of a second building which interconnects seamlessly with the original hotel. Now heritage-listed, this architectural masterpiece houses one of Switzerland’s best preserved Belle Epoque ballrooms – a much treasured feature.

Historical elements have been sensitively preserved throughout the hotel. Tile mosaics and marble, hexagonal motifs, coffered ceilings, chandeliers, and the niches in the bedrooms of the Belle Epoque wing, are a reminder of a golden age.

Yet while Kempinski Palace Engelberg embraces its elegance and history, this beautiful property has been carefully reinterpreted for today’s travellers. Taking inspiration from its stunning Alpine surroundings, the interiors mirror the subtle textures and restful colours of nature. Local materials such as wood and stone are featured in contemporary details crafted using traditional techniques. The 129 spacious rooms and suites each look out onto spectacular panoramic views of the mountains and guarantee a good night’s rest. Their décor blends historical details with contemporary furnishings in sumptuous materials such as brushed oak and leather, while gentle hues of green and blue echo the fresh Alpine air.

Infused with Swiss flair and charm, this luxurious, peaceful haven is set next to the spa gardens, within easy access to the many attractions and activities the area has to offer. The famous Engelberg monastery is a ten-minute stroll away and golfers can spend a leisurely afternoon on the nearby 18-hole course.

For the more energetic, a wide range of year-round outdoor activities await. And of course, there are lots of winter sports to enjoy with 82 km of glistening slopes for every level of skier, along with tobogganing, snowboarding, and bracing winter hikes.

However you choose to spend your day, the hotel’s superb spa is the perfect place to unwind, floating in the infinity pool with its panoramic mountain view. If you are travelling with children, you can still grab some ‘me time’ as younger guests are catered for too. In fact, the hotel is one of the first Kempinski properties to implement our new kids’ club concept – Titan Tikes.

No Alpine haven would be complete without a roaring log fire. Relaxing in front of it with drinks is the ideal prelude to dinner at Cattani Restaurant, with its backdrop of spectacular landscapes. On the menu, you’ll find Swiss culinary specialities and seasonal delicacies prepared by executive chef Michéle Müller - one of just a few female chefs to lead the team of a Swiss five-star hotel.

A traditional afternoon tea in the enchanting Wintergarden, with its own terrace, is a must, while The Palace Bar and Cigar Lounge, inspired by the Roaring Twenties, are perfect places to unwind. Close to Lucerne, and easily accessible by air, rail, and road, Kempinski Palace Engelberg is the perfect base from which to explore this magical wonderland at any time of year.

DORFSTRASSE 40 6390 ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND KEMPINSKI.COM/ENGELBERG +41 41 639 7575

Kempinski offers a second way to experience the splendour of the Swiss mountains - you can also enjoy a family-friendly break at our nearby partner hotel, Frutt Mountain Resort with its access to many sporting activities.

Tucked away in the pretty village of Melchsee-Frutt, on the shores of the Melchsee mountain lake, our partner hotel, Frutt Mountain Resort, is the perfect escape from busy modern life. This family-friendly resort is an Alpine paradise.

6068 MELCHSEE-FRUTT, SWITZERLAND FRUTTMOUNTAINRESORT.COM +41 41 669 7979