CARYEOAFR THE
! REVEALED
CORTINA COLLECTION MK3 ADDICT!
SIERRA COSWORTH IN-DEPTH GUIDE
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January 2021
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BEST OF THE BEST The finest Fords, restorations, clubs, gear and more of the year!
PLUS: FORD’S 4WD F1 CAR US-SPEC CAPRI PROJECT SECRET FORDS REVEALED
RESTORE IT:
SORT IT:
IMPROVE IT:
How to stop that rearend rot in its tracks
Get more from your Mk1 (and still keep it classic)
MINDER FWD ESCORT ’60s CORTINAS CAPRI RUST REPAIR TUNING GUIDE
TV-star Mk2’s rapid rebirth
Car: Escort Mk1 Start condition: crashed and rusty Condition now: repaired and prepared shell Time taken so far: 10 months Estimated date of completion: Bodywork complete in three weeks
Words and Photos Dan Sherwood
Name: Callum Bligh Age: 24 Job: Panel beater Location: Cambridgeshire, UK
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W
hen you think about it, school was pretty great. No bills to pay, no frustrating traffic jams on your daily commute, you didn’t even have to make your own dinner. In fact the only thing you had to worry about was remembering your PE kit (if you didn’t want to endure the indignity of playing football in your vest and pants) and getting caught having a crafty ciggy around the back of the bike sheds. There was of course one other area that filled you with dread —
homework. You’d just been learning your cerebellum off for the last six hours, the last thing you wanted to do when you got home was yet more brain training! But then there are always exceptions to the rule, and if like Callum Bligh, your homework was to modify and paint your own project car, then maybe the thought of some extra-curricular activities wouldn’t be so bad after all? “It was through my college course in paint and bodywork that I started tinkering with
HOME WORK
Your projects: Working on cars as part of his college course has given Callum Bligh a job in panel beating, however, his real ambition is to restore classics for a living and these two Escorts are the key to making that dream a reality.
Car: Escort Mk1 Start condition: Rusty and abandoned complete car pulled out of a hedge! Condition now: Stripped shell ready for rust removal Time taken so far: 11 months
cars,” explains now 24-year old Callum. “I was 17 and had a Citroen Saxo that I modified as part of my coursework. It was lowered on some cool rims and I even completed a full respray too, all in my parents’ garage at the bottom of the garden. That car helped me pass the course and get a job as a panel beater at an insurance approved bodyshop.” But fixing up accident damaged modern machinery isn’t where Callum’s true passion lies, as he’s much more interested in reviving cool classics.
“I did my first full restoration job on a Mk4 Escort 1.3 that I bought as a project,” recalls Callum. “That had the works: a full respray, interior upgrades and a Zetec engine swap. In fact, it was soon after that I set up a small business called Cal’s Restorations (07388 511840) and began restoring retro rides, still in my parents’ garage.” Which is where he’s restoring these two Mk1 Escorts, although they actually form part of a much grander plan — turn the page to find out.
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The four-door spent two decades living in a hedge, so it needs plenty of work.
Doing a panel beating course at college gave Cal the bug for working on classic Fords.
but it’s nearly there now thank goodness!The hedge-find four-door was actually a complete car when I got it, but it hadn’t run for 20 years and old cars aren’t fond of living in the undergrowth, so that too has its fair share of corrosion and will likely need a whole new front end and floor pan. Other than that, it’s a fairly straight shell that I’ll take back to bare metal and build it up from there. So, what’s the story with these two Escorts? The primer grey two-door shell that’s in the workshop is owned by my girlfriend’s brother. I’ve been restoring it for him as a favour and to act as a demonstration of what I can do.The rusty looking four-door outside is my own project. I actually dragged it out of a hedge when I was 15, but didn’t have the funds or skills to do anything with it back then. It’s only recently that I’ve managed to make a start on it, but it’s hard when I’m prioritising customer builds that need to be finished first. What are they going to be like when completed? The two-door is going to be a RS2000 replica in Olympic Blue with the RS stripes, fat four-spoke
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wheels, rolltop seats and a 2-litre Pinto engine. It should be lovely when its done. My four-door is going to be much less original and finished to a show standard with a smoothed, wire tucked engine bay, a wild engine swap, eye-popping paint and I’ll probably stick it on air ride, too! What kind of condition were they in when you first got them? Pretty bad to be honest! As well as being riddled with the red rot, the two-door had also suffered a large impact to the front left-hand side which had pushed the chassis leg and bulkhead back and twisted the chassis. It was quite a job to get it all squared up and everything back in place, not to mention the fact that I had to repair or replace just about every single panel except the roof skin.That car has had hundreds of hours put into it already,
What was the first thing you did to each one? The main thing to sort on the two-door was getting the shell straight and repairing the accident damage. I began by removing the wings and doors and cutting out any areas of rust before making up a brace to help align the new panels and structural work. It was a difficult task, as once the damaged parts had been removed there wasn’t much left to work from, so it was a case of a lot of measuring, re-measuring and a lot of head-scratching, but I got there in the end.The first thing I did on the four-door was to strip it down to a shell to see what I had to work with. It’s pretty much ready for me to start now, but I need to get the two-door sorted before I can really start cracking on with mine.
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your projects: mk1 escorts
“THE TWO-DOOR HAD SUFFERED A LARGE IMPACT AND WAS QUITE A JOB TO GET IT ALL SQUARED UP”
The two-door will soon be leaving Cal’s care to be fitted up with a 2-litre Pinto.
What has been the hardest part of each build? For the two-door it’s been little things like getting panel gaps right and ensuring everything is lined up properly before it gets painted. The last thing you want is to find that something is out after the shell has been painted and you’re on the final assembly, as then it’s too late. So getting things perfect has been my main priority. Obviously, I have yet to get to the hard part of my own project, but I’m hoping things will run smoothly. To be honest,
I think the hardest part will be deciding the final direction of the build. Things like choosing which engine and drivetrain combination, the paint colour or whether to go down the air ride route are all things I need to seriously consider. But it’ll be fun too, I’m sure! When do you hope to have them finished? The two-door should be cosmetically ready in about two or three weeks, when it will go back to its owner for the engine and mechanicals to be installed. My four-door is
Two-door’s body colour will be Olympic Blue — with RS2000 stripes, naturally.
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obviously way off yet, but if I can find the time to concentrate on it, ideally I’d like to have it finished before Christmas next year, but we’ll see. The level of work that I’m planning for mine is right up there and will be absolutely show quality with no corners cut and no stone left unturned, so it’ll take as long as it takes. The idea being that I’ll take it to shows to get my name out there and then sell it, putting the funds into buying my own unit to start up Cal’s Restorations as my full-time job. That would really be living the dream!
Cal’s keen to finish his work on the two-door so that he can make a start on his own four-door project.
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Welcome to our highlights of 2020!
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hat a difference a year makes! Few people could have predicted the massive upheaval heaped on the world since the start of 2020 and that is sadly still ongoing. But we’re not here to dwell on the negative, instead the annual Classic Ford Awards focuses on the positive contributions made to our amazing
worldwide scene made by individuals, businesses, clubs and organisations alike, whether it be cars, products, events (albeit almost exclusively online) and more. So here, without further ado, is out celebration of the great and the good of 2020. And may 2021 be even better for all of us.
CLASSIC FORD AWARDS
BEST WHEELS PAUL WOOD, CUSTOM 7X13 STEELS FEATURED: FEBRUARY 2020
Lotus steels have been the mainstay of classic Ford wheels for decades but they have one limiting factor: they were mainly only available in a 5.5 inch width. Deciding that wider steels were the only option for his ST170-powered Mk1 Escort, with a lot of arm-twisting Paul persuaded Weller Wheels to create a single set of 7 inch-wide replicas just for him.The finished results fill the arches of his Mk1 perfectly — so much so that Weller now sell them off the shelf...
FEATURED: JANUARY 2020
Recreating a BTCC Sierra Cosworth or RS500 would be a challenge, but arguably going one rung up the cool ladder and building a tribute of the Merkur XR4Ti Touring Cars, which don’t forget won the 1985 BTCC, means Alan Strachan gets our vote. Starting with a genuine 909 Motorsport shell, Alan’s well on the way to getting this one on the race track — in striking Ford Rennsport 1986TouristTrophy livery — powered by what else but the correct-spec turbocharged 2.3 Lima engine and a whole host of period-correct parts — largely manufactured buy his own AWS engineering outfit. One we definitely can’t wait to see in action.
BEST ENGINE BAY MICHAEL WOOD, ANGLIA 307E
BEST BODY & PAINT JAKE SWANN, MK2 ESCORT
Fitting a Pinto into an Anglia is not easy (it’s long and tall for a four-cylinder) but making it look at home in the bay is another matter. Michael Wood managed both and then some with his 307E van. With a cleverly-reworked bulkhead that still echoes the original pressing and home-fabbed inlet manifold to angle the twin 45s forward to give that little bit extra clearance, it’s a exercise in planning and creativity — just check out the smoothed panels and total absence of wiring and cables.The fact that the Pinto sports a rare Pinto twin-cam head is the icing on the cake.
Take one look at this BDG-powered Mk2 and it’s got ‘pro-built’ written all over it — from the spec to the finish, the execution is excellent. But this isn’t a pro job, it was largely built by Jake and his Dad at home. Despite never doing anything like this before, Jake baremetalled the shell, repaired the rot, added turrets and link boxes, and then spent hundreds of hours getting the panel gaps perfect before the arduous job of prepping the steel ready for top coats of lovely Machine Silver applied by family friends. A Homebuilt Hero classic Ford at its finest.
FEATURED: MAY/JUNE 2020
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MOST-ANTICIPATED PROJECT ALAN STRACHAN, MERKUR XR4TI
FEATURED: DECEMBER 2019
CLUBS OF THE YEAR ANGLIA 105E OWNERS’ CLUB, MK1 CORTINA OWNER’S CLUB, CORTINA MK2 OWNER’S CLUB It wouldn’t be an over-statement to remark that the 2020 events calendar has been utterly decimated. But realising the need for classic Ford enthusiasts to still congregate and share their cars and stories, some clubs and groups have taken a lateral approach — not least enterprising members of the Anglia and Mk1 and Mk2 Cortina clubs who decided to hold
BEST INTERIOR ASHLEY FARAZMAND, ESCORT HARRIER RESTORATION OF THE YEAR DAVID CHALLENGER/PC MOTORS, CAPRI 1600 XL FEATURED: AUGUST 2020
It wasn’t that long ago that only the RS models would be given a restoration as exhaustive as the one the Challenger family’s Mk1 Capri XL was treated to. Bought new by David’s grandfather in 1972, there was no way this Forest Green example with stunning tan interior was going to get anything else. The rebuild commenced at PC Motors in
2014, after David had already spent several years tracking down hard-to-find parts and panels to replace those either missing or beyond saving — and the lengths gone to make the end result look like it’s been on display in a main dealer’s showroom since the early 1970s made for a truly memorable story.
“A WELCOME DISTRACTION FROM 2020”
MOTORSPORT CAR OF THE YEAR
PRODUCT OF THE YEAR
a virtual weekend to replace their own cancelled annual gettogethers. Using Facebook as the platform, the clubs put together a cracking weekend’s worth of special events — including a virtual tour and prizegiving — that not only felt inclusive, but provided a welcome distraction from everything that’s going on right now.
FEATURED: MARCH 2020
Of all the iconic Ford interior trim that’s been reproduced in recent years, we would have wagered the distinctive velour material found on the Scheel seats in the Escort RS1600i would be the least likely to be remanufactured. Apparently not, as Aldridge Trimming bit the bullet and pressed the go button. Now, new RS1600i seats covers (front and rear) are available, again making restoring one of these cars a lot easier.
SHADI TOBAJI, MK3 CORTINA
If Australia knows how to do one thing well, it’s build a classic Ford for the strip. Shadi’s Mk3 has run an incredible 8.3-second pass on the quarter-mile — all from a car that relies on an 875 bhp, normally-aspirated Ford V8 for propulsion.The Cortina is finished to exacting levels for the strip — yet wouldn’t look out of place on the show car scene, or even the high street.
RS1600i SEAT COVERS
FEATURED: JANUARY 2020
Ashley’s Harrier could have picked up any of the awards here, but the crowning glory is arguably the interior — a heady mix of custom touches and alcantara and leather topped off by Ashley’s relentless pursuit of detail. From the switchgear moved to a panel in between the seats to the modified rear bench and fold-up rear mirror to allow a clear line of sight right through the car, it is utterly impressive.
BEST BOOK COMPLETE CATALOGUE OF THE ESCORT MK3 TO MK6
The last of the Escorts were in serious danger of disappearing from history, but Dan Williamson has saved the day with this superbly-researched book chronicling Escort output from the Mk3 onwards. No stone left unturned in his pursuit of documenting every model and edition. This book will give you a new appreciation for these underrated cars. 9
CLASSIC FORD CLASSIC FORDAWARDS
CLASSIC FORD OF THE
THE NOMINATIONS The best feature cars from the last 12 months
Dave Caley Popular 100E
Ben Gibbs Mk1 Fiesta
Featured: December 2019
Featured: July 2020
Featured: December 2019
Michael Wood Anglia 307E
Featured: May/June 2020
Lee Saywell Consul Corsair
Featured: August 2020
David Challenger Mk1 Capri
Guido Pitzen Mk1 Fiesta
Wayne Arrowsmith Mk2 Mexico Featured: October 2020
David Jeggo Taunus TC
Featured: October 2020
Paul Wood Mk1 Escort
Stephen Hume Mk5 Cortina
Oliver Preston Mk4 Escort
Featured: March 2020
Featured: February 2020 10
Allan Brown Capri 280 TT
Featured: Spring 2020
Featured: August 2020
Featured: September 2020
Previous winners
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
Wayne Hankins Zetec Anglia
CLASSIC FORD OF THE
Dave McSherry 24-valve Capri
Gary Preston Mk1 Escort V8
Johnny Weir Mk1 Fiesta
Allan Brown’s Capri 280 TT The votes are all in, they’ve been counted, recounted and verified, and we are pleased to reveal that your Classic Ford OfTheYear is Allan Brown’sTurboTechnics Capri 280.The subject of a lengthy and detailed recent restoration, the rare 280TT is a clear crowdpleaser and worthy winner of the 2020 crown. No-one was more surprised about the positive reaction the Capri would get when the completed restoration was first revealed, and Allan was the first to admit that a lot of this was down to the car’s restorer,Trevor Steadman of Steadspeed Restorations.Trevor is famed not only for his knowledge of how Capris go together, but also his ability to fabricate hand-made panels and repair sections, so first-time classic car owner, Allan knew he was the right person for the job of taking on this special car.
One of only a handful of 280s converted byTurboTechnics, Allan’s is the full-fat 200 bhp F26 version, and despite being well looked-after for all it’s life, was ripe for a complete rebuild onceTrevor had stripped it down, withTrevor electing to save as many of the original panels as possibly rather than simply replace them.With the engine rebuilt, and the running gear all refurbished byTrevor too, the end result is the perfect mix of original and restored, and even better, Allan’s not afraid to use it, driving 100s of miles across the UK to attend shows when he can. Congratulation to Allan, andTrevor, and we look forward to seeing what the pair come up with next. Think you’ve got a potential car that could be crowned Classic Ford OfTheYear in 2021? Drop us an email to: classicford.ed@kelsey.co.uk.
Tony Amdur Lotus Anglia
André Grech Anglia Estate
Patsy McNally 1700 Mk1 Escort
Jayne Gilmour Mk3 Cortina
Aaron French Pop 100E
Tom Cropp Anglia 105E
Danny Vincent ST170 Pop 100E
Mickey Stewart Mk1 Escort RS2000
AWAR DS TURN FOR TO PAGE
2019
96 OUR OF TH PHOTOS E YEAR !
Connor McNally Anglia 105E
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CORTINA CITY Original classic Fords: Welcome to Cortina City, where Pete Crompton is a virtual one-man production line, turning out a freshly-restored Mk3 Cortina every couple of years‌ Words Mike Renaut Photos Adrian Brannan
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ou likely believe the last brand-new Mk3 Cortina was built in 1976, but Pete Crompton’s comprehensive restorations have virtually put them back into production. “I like a challenge,” explains Pete. “My dad and brother had Cortinas. I got my first Mk3 when I was 21, I love the Coke bottle styling, there’s not a bad angle on the car. I like finding really rotten Cortinas and saving them.” “The silver 2000 GXL is a rare two-door and rarer still for being an automatic,” explains Pete. “Built in January 1972 it had
sat in a field in Tewkesbury since 1983. I saw photos of it taken by a fellow Mk3 Cortina Owner’s Club member (www.cortinamk3club.com) so drove the 150 miles down there, left my details and got a call from the owner’s daughter in 2016. I’d just started another restoration but I returned to collect the car, got it running and driving, then displayed it as a barn-find for a couple of years with all the brambles still attached. I’d trailer it to shows then drive it in.” The restoration began in 2018 with a complete stripdown. “The roof was clearly
bad where it had rotted under the vinyl but after an acid dip it also needed a boot floor, inner sills and floorpan which came from Ex-Pressed Steel Panels (www.steelpanels. co.uk) I went front to back on the body and dissected every spot weld. I saved about half of the front metalwork and part of the bulkhead — about a third of the metal remains original. A local bodyshop do all my final paintwork — I prefer to leave that to the experts — and painted it my preferred Granada shade, Silver Birch rather than the original Silver Fox.”
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“THE BLUE GXL WAS FOUND IN A HEDGE WITH A TREE GROWING THROUGH IT”
Below: Corgi were so impressed with Pete’s efforts to save the blue GXL, they created a model of it.
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Jem Engines (01324 633266, www.jemengines.co.uk) rebuilt the bottom end with a Kent FR30 cam. “I did the top end and ancillaries, there’s a stainless steel custom exhaust, too. I wanted to build a continental cruiser so I’ve added upgrades such as Mk4 Cortina power steering, a full MP3 system, uprated airflow and heater, even heated screenwashers with rain sensors. “The gearbox is a Mk3 Granada A4LD four-speed automatic with electronic torque lock up — I built a speed controller to run it. The ’box bolts straight to the Cortina’s Pinto but it’s 115 mm longer so I had the propshaft shortened and fabricated new mounts. I bought a complete 2-litre Granada and stripped it for parts. The rear end is a stock 3.75:1 so at 70 mph the engine is doing 3000 rpm. I’ve added cruise control from the
Granada too, using the original sensor from the A4LD gearbox. It’s all hidden away, the only clue being the control stalk which I’ve engraved in the original Ford font. “I rebuilt and powdercoated the suspension. The brakes are standard but, like every one of my restorations, each single bolt and seal of this car has been cleaned, refurbished or replaced. The interior is ColorBond dyed vinyl and retrimmed by Kew Coach Trimmers (01704 536787, www.kewcoachtrimmers.co.uk) with heating pads sewn inside. All the wood trim inlays were hydro dipped and wrapped and I added a Mondeo self-dimming rear view mirror. The headlights are Osram Night Breaker bulbs and there’s Cree LED taillights — I always use branded ones, the cheap bulbs can be dangerous.
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heritage: mk3 cortina collection
20000 GXL has 2800 hours in it, and it shows. Rebuilt Pinto (below) left is backed up by a cleverly-installed four-speed auto from a later Granada. Maize Yellow four-door is another of Pete’s recent projects and has already driven across Europe.
“It’s a driver’s car; I love motorway driving. I do 200 miles a week and there’s no rattles, no wind noise. I’m obsessive about it being perfect. I wanted to finish these cars while I was still young enough to enjoy them, I gave myself three years to complete this Cortina and finished it in two, it took 2800 hours with 30 hours a week until midnight every night.”
All about the base
The estate is a 1300L from 1972. “It’s a base model; I hadn’t seen one with a vinyl roof. I saved it from banger racers in 2017. It was originally a Co-op television repair car then was bought by a mechanic who’d died and it’d sat on his ramp since 1977. It was largely surface rust and came with two brand-new wings and the original 1972 battery. Being
dry-stored even the rubber carpeting was still good. I prefer saloons so sold it to another enthusiast recently. I just wanted to prevent it being raced.” The yellow car is a November 1971 2-litre GXL. “It was an unfinished project,” explains Pete, “a good body that was stripped with no engine or interior. A blank canvas. I bought it in 2016 because at the time that two-door wasn’t available, then suddenly it was. This car is now Maize Yellow, I copied the colour scheme from an original Corgi model. “I replaced the outer sills and one inner wing, it was a test bed for the silver car and so has the same A4LD gearbox conversion, a Jem-built 205 block, power steering, cruise control, and so no. I’ll definitely be keeping this one; it’s lowered an inch and is polybushed with Spax 240 lb springs so it’s a
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sporty go-kart ride. I love the handling. There’s 2600 hours in this car — again every piece was rechromed and each screw and seal refurbished or replaced, I added a new vinyl roof too. It’s been to France and Italy, I even drove it to Cortina.”
Essex boy
The blue Cortina is an October 1971, 2-litre manual GXL. “I’d rebuilt a green one in 2011 and was on a forum looking at a ‘Left to rot’ thread when I noticed photos of this Cortina in a swamp,” remembers Pete. “I got in touch with the photographer, a lorry driver who had been on a detour in Maldon, Essex when he saw the car. Using Google Earth I found the location and in November 2011 drove down there in my green car to find it. In was in a hedge with a tree growing 15
Stunning interior in the silver 2000 GXL features hidden upgrades including heated seats...
“THE ESTATE IS A EX-TV REPAIR CAR I SAVED FROM THE BANGER TRACK” through it. I knocked on doors but couldn’t find the owner so I went through the Land Registry for a name and drove back down two months later. “The Cortina had been parked up in 1987 after the owner died and his brother hadn’t returned to the car since. I gave him £200 and my promise that I would restore it then bring it back to show him. “Every panel was rotten including the roof, which started to crack apart as we craned it out... It needed a new roof, door skins, floor, boot… every panel was replaced. It was my first proper restoration. 16
Pete’s garages feature plenty of ephemera too, like these illuminated dealer signs.
“Fellow enthusiast, Mad Mike spent a year helping me, and showing me metal techniques and welding. I finished the car in 2014 after 3200 hours of work — we were probably able to save about a third of it since all the running gear is still original. I did the engine’s head and ancillaries and the interior was completely retrimmed. “When I drove it back to Essex completed, the brother and his mum were in tears. Corgi found out about the story and made a model of the car. “The key with these restorations is to do one section at a time or it overwhelms you.
You have to organise things such as rechroming months in advance and have alternatives in place in case you get let down. Because I make YouTube and Patreon videos I feel I have to offer value for money for my followers, they give me the adrenaline and urge to keep going. I have to provide regular content and the viewer’s feedback keeps me enthusiastic — I do it for them as much as for myself.”
Follow Pete and see his restoration videos at www.youtube.com (search for Pete C), or at www.patreon.com/cortina.
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MOTORSPORT CLASSIC FORDS FLAT-OUT ON THE STAGE, STRIP AND TRACK
The WRT featured a modified 165 bhp TDCi engine — note the cheeky bumper cut-out and intercooler!
WORLD RALLY TRANSIT Inspired by M-Sport’s service barges, 20 years ago the World Rally Transit was the fastest service van in the business.
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Words Graham Robson
o-one really needed a reason for making it — the Transit was a great publicity machine, put together by Paul Wilson’s Ford Press garage team. Every Martini decal and every visual detail was right. It looked the part and, at a pinch, it could even have worked for its living with Ford’s M-Sport team. With a claimed top speed of 130 mph it could keep up with the latest Mondeo ST200 on most main roads. 130 mph? Really? You’d better believe it…
The World Rally Transit was based on a standard high-roof turbodiesel model, with a front-mounted engine and rear drive. However, although the 2.4-litre engine had been tweaked to 165 bhp, there were 8x18 inch rally-type alloy wheels, and the very Focus WRC-style cabin featured snugly-moulded Sparco rally seats, and a small Momo sports wheel. The suspension was lowered, springs and dampers were uprated, and there was also a deep front splitter to make it look mean.
The interior was up to rally car standards, complete with roll cage, Sparco seats, and a Momo steering wheel.
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It was fully road legal, of course — but not for the modest. And why the number 5 on the doors? That was the permanent competition number carried by Colin McRae’s M-Sport Focus WRC in the 2000 season. And where is it now? Still under Ford’s control, still in the Heritage Collection, and still in great demand. Because the original Martini contract is now over, only the livery has changed.
IMPROVING YOUR CLASSIC FORD JUST GOT EASIER
UPGRADE GUIDE
MK1 CORTINA How to get the best out of your ’60s saloon or estate — without ruining its classic appeal.
T
he Mk1 Cortina has been a firm favourite with Ford fans for years. With a successful racing heritage, drivers like Jim Clark firmly established the car’s potential in the minds of the public — and with the tuning houses, too. As a result there have always been cheap and easy upgrades for the Mk1, and mixing and matching parts from other models has been the norm for Cortinas for decades.
Not only were Mk1s a cheap and accessible way into the modifying scene, their classic looks accompanied with bucketloads of charm never fail to catch people’s attention. The massive increase in popularity in recent years has led the Cortina to be a victim of its own success as prices have risen meaning they’re not the bargain they once were.That’s the downside — the upside is that as a result, there are now many more
upgraded parts available off the shelf — and these are cheaper than ever. Through decades of development work, we’ve seen Mk1 Cortinas progress and evolve in all manner of ways — and upgrading them has never been so easy. There are tried and thoroughly tested conversions and techniques to modernise or improve yours — and this guide will give you the lowdown on the best of them.
racing pedigree attached making it a must for a lot of racing or performancebiased Mk1s. Despite this though, we have recently seen a big increase in cars ignoring the stripe and going for a single body colour — and some would argue that’s all for the better. It also avoids the ‘Is that a real one?’ comments... Colour-coding the trim and bumpers can be good for saving
money and offers a more modern look if that’s what you’re going for. Paint choice is of course purely opinion but we’ve found anything works in practice, as long as the car has the stance to match — just keep it simple.
BODY The Cortina shape was an instant classic when announced in 1962 that has gained many fans over the years.There are obvious American influences, but in a heavily scaled-down and typically English fashion that’s been proportioned exactly right — in fact, many would argue there isn’t a bad angle on the car. In today’s times, it’s now a shape that possesses all the charm a true classic Ford should do, while still managing to not look too out of place with more modern machinery. For this reason, the chrome detailing is worth retaining on any model you have as original trim always looks the part and isn’t too hard to track down if missing or in need of rechroming — although front quarter bumpers can be tricky to locate if that’s the option you choose — tryTeam Deville.That said, the bumperless race-look does work particularly well on the Mk1, so go with what works best for the look you want to achieve. As for colour schemes, there’s always the Lotus template, upon which we’ve seen with pretty much every colour combination over the years. It is of course a factory design that naturally lends itself to the shape well, and has the
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TECH FEATURES INSIDE THIS ISSUE: Getting technical with the best in the business. Here’s everything you need!
64 EXPERTLetters ClassicFord
CLASSIC FORD’S PROJECT CARS The Minder Capri gets closer to paint, while Simon’s Mk1 goes legal.
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105speed 01234 826827 www.105speed.com 2spec Transmissions 01564 779010 www.2specgroup. co.uk 3J Driveline 01926 854119 www.3jdriveline. com BB Classics 01442 219145 www.bbclassics. co.uk
ENGINE UPGRADES Despite being an old design, the Pre-Crossflow engine has had its fair share of followers over the years. Back when they were first released, Broadspeed and Cosworth amongst others had a hand in extracting more power and turning them into screamers on the track. However, in more recent years owners have chosen to swap engines in order to chase performance but if you’ve decided to keep it as Ford intended and use what you’ve got then the Pre-Crossflow can be turned into a real period-looking punch packer. The original powerplant for the Cortina came with two capacity options: 1200cc and 1500cc. It is of course advisable to use the latter as a starting platform as they were more powerful and came with a five-bearing crank which is handy. Upgrading to GT spec is straightforward with the help of modern parts.This will mean the addition of a Weber 28/36 DCD or a similar twin choke from a later Crossflow and a matching uprated manifold and exhaust system (try 105speed).Together with an uprated cam that has similar specs to the original GT version, such as the Kent BCF1 you will be knocking on the door to GT power.
From there, a Stage 1 head from the likes of Burton Power orThrobnozzle Racing along with a better cam such as the Kent BCF2 and a tubular manifold and exhaust will give around 95 bhp, which makes for a nice road engine.The single carb will be able to fuel the engine further but everyone likes the sight and sound of a set of twin 40s under the bonnet so ideally those would be next on the list and this will unleash another 10-15 bhp or so. By now a Stage 2 head along with an even hotter cam such as the Kent 234 will give a steady 120 bhp. Of course, going beyond that and it starts getting a bit more specialist and expensive but we’ve seen examples with over 150 bhp before so the potential’s there. If you are intending a big-spec build from the start then capacity can be increased to almost 1650cc and compression can be raised quite significantly by skimming the head. But make sure you know what head you have to start out with as there are different variations that will of course give different compression ratios.
BGH Geartech 01580 714114 www.bghgeartech. co.uk Burton Power 202 8518 9127 www.burtonpower. com D&D Developments 07772 740817 www.facebook. com/ dandddevelopments GAZ Shocks 01268 724585 www.gazshocks. com Old Ford Auto Services 01344 422731 www.oldfordautos. com Rally Design 01227 792792 www.rallydesign. co.uk Retro Ford 01536 204823 www.retroford. co.uk Revolution Competition Wheels 01623 860000 https:// revolutionwheels. com
“EVERYONE LIKES THE SIGHT AND SOUND OF A PAIR OF TWIN 40s UNDER THE BONNET”
Team Deville 07511 801317 http://teamdeville. co.uk Throbnozzle Racing 01273 840697 http://throbnozzleracing.co.uk
ENGINE SWAPS CROSSFLOW
Swapping the 1500 Pre-Crossflow for its younger brother has several advantages — the increased capacity of the 1600 block is one bonus (and easily enlarged to 1700cc using +90 thou 1300 pistons), but the later engines (especially the most-common 711M versions) are stronger, too, and parts are generally cheaper and easier to source. Fitting one couldn’t be simpler — you can use the existing engine mounts, though as the 711M block is slightly wider, you’ll need to ‘slot’ the nearside mounting hole on the crossmember to compensate. Switching to a Crossflow will also require a change of exhaust manifold, but if you’re running a single carb, there are no other issues. Sidedraughts though, will foul the battery, so this needs relocating to the boot — the now-redundant battery tray can be removed by drilling out the spot welds (or leave it in place if you plan to return the car to original at some point). There is an alternative however: For the original look and no carb clearance issues, plenty of tuners and enthusiasts now base a Pre-Crossflow engine build around the later Crossflow block.The Pre-Crossflow head can be adapted, while the Crossflow’s pistons will need swapping for the flat-top Lotus type.
ZETEC E
The 2-litre Zetec E engine (left) is a great and relatively-affordable powerplant, and the ease of this conversion boils down to your steering set-up, as the original steering box requires a front bowl sump to solve any clearance issues. A more modern rack and pinion set-up makes the whole swap a lot easier so you can use a rear bowl sump and also mount the engine slightly further back too, which will help.
BRAKES Early 1200 cars came with front drum brakes so if yours still has these, any brake upgrades will involve switching to discs brake struts. Once done, the original P14 or later P16 callipers and solid discs are a bit on the marginal side for a performance car, although a good set of linings will sort them out. However, a dead easy swap is to vented Capri 2.8i discs and matching widened M16 callipers. For an easy life you will need the M16’s calliper mounting bolts, which are longer, and if you can, retain the Mk1 Cortina hubs rather than use the Capri ones, as the flange is slightly thinner, giving more clearance for the (spaced) callipers. Beyond this, Rally Design’s Wilwood four-pot calliper range should provide the answer. The rear brakes on a Mk1 Cortina are pretty straightforward. Use the Lotus or GT 9 inch drums, or if these aren’t available, use 2-litre Capri drums plus
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spacers and redrill the backplates so that the handbrake mechanism lines up. Rear disc conversions are available for English axles as an upgrade too, but in reality, for most road-going applications the standard 8 inch drums in good condition are absolutely up to the job. Finally, don’t forget to upgrade the master cylinder — one with a 0.075 inch or 0.384 inch bore should be fine for most upgrades.
All the parts needed to do this conversion are available through Retro Ford, as is the water rail conversion needed due to space by the bulkhead and the engine mounts that are required, too. Depending on what kind of induction you’ve opted for can also cause some issues with clearance for the brake and clutch master cylinders and the alternator may also need moving to the left side of the engine to free up some space.
TYPICAL PRICES BOLT-ON BONANZA GRP front quarter bumpers £55 pair (Team Deville) Exchange Stage 2a Pre-Crossflow head £790 (Burton Power) Zetec E fitting kit (steering box set-up) £1387.17 (Retro Ford) Lotus-spec adjustable rear dampers £72.95 each (GAZ Shocks) New Capri 2.8i M16 callipers £118.20 pair (Rally Design) 6x13 8-Spoke Classic RallyWheels £129.60 each (Revolution) BB1 RS bucket seats £379.95 pair (BB Classics)
“A DEAD EASY BRAKE SWAP IS TO USE 2.8i DISCS AND CALLIPERS” Subscribe: 01959 543747, www.classicfordmag.co.uk
TRANSMISSION Your choice of engine will help you to decide what’s suitable for your needs here.The most common swap is to use theType-9 five-speed, but it’s not necessarily a straightforward swap and there’s fabrication work to be done due the increased size of the ’box. If the car has still got the steering box set-up then there are sometimes clearance issues with the bellhousings; a problem that doesn’t occur on rack-and-pinion set-ups. For the solution you can either try another bellhousing or raise the engine marginally to gain clearance.
Three-rail
The standard three-rail four-speed gearbox found in the 1200 and 1500 (and even the GT) has ratios designed for everyday drivability — once you start tuning the engine you’ll find these ratios woefully inadequate.To improve the situation and keep it period, you can use a 2000E (above) or early 1600E gearbox, which comes with much closer ratios and can be fitted straight in without any mods using the original tailshaft (or with the GT or Lotus remote). Despite the easy
STEERING The Mk1 comes with a steering box, which, if you’ve cut your teeth on cars with rack-and-pinion steering, has a reputation for being vague. However, it needn’t be if all the components are in tiptop condition — the tiniest bit of play in the myriad of ball joints and track rod ends translates into loads at the steering wheel, so as a matter of course, budget on rebuilding the lot, and fit poly bushes. You can swap to a steering rack in several ways. One is to use an Old Ford Auto Services kit which is based on Escort and Capri components, and means swapping to a rear-bowl sump (needed for a Zetec swap).This throws out the strut positions, meaning eccentric top
fitment though, they’re increasingly harder and more expensive to find.
Type-9
As five-speed swaps go, the Sierra/ Granada-basedType-9 gearbox (right) still makes a lot of sense. However, due to its size, the Cortina’s transmission tunnel will need enlarging by removing and creating a new top section, which will need additional strengthening.You can replace the whole tunnel by fabricating a new one from scratch or fitting the larger automatic tunnel. Custom mounts will then need to be made or adapted although Retro Ford sells a universal gearbox crossmember for around £100 which can be bolted on and plated through the floor to save on some of the hassle. The ratios onType-9s aren’t ideal for some people but there are companies, including 2specTransmissions, 3J Driveline and BGH Geartech, who will mix and match the ratios to create a better-suited ’box.
MX-5
The five-speed gearbox from the Mazda MX-5 (below left) has become a popular alternative to theType-9 in recent years, especially for Zetec engine swaps — it’s smaller, has better ratios and can be picked up cheaper. In fact, it will fit the Mk1 Cortina’s transmission tunnel with only minimal cutting and reworking to the top section.The downside is that you’ll need an adaptor plate, bespoke crossmember and hydraulic clutch release bearing kit amongst other things — Retro Ford can help here.
Axles
All Mk1 Cortinas come with the 47 inch English axle, and there’s really no need to swap it for anything else in this day and age — unless you’re planning an engine swap in excess of 300 bhp.The axle is easily upgraded if needed, with thicker, Atlas-style halfshafts installed with minimal mods thanks to Rally Design and Retro Ford, and its easily removable diff housing means ratio (and LSD) swaps are a cinch.
mounts are required and some mods to the strut top mounting holes are required. The alternative is to use the neater but more-expensive Retro Ford set-up (below) which retains the standard struts (and in their original positions) and again works with rear-bowl sump set-ups.
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CLUBS, GROUPS AND FAN SITES GET CONNECTED BuySellCortina www.buysellcortina.co.uk Cortina Mk1 www.cortina-mk1.com Ford Cortina Fan Club www.facebook.com/groups Lotus Cortina Information www.lotuscortinainfo.com Lotus Cortina Register https://lotuscortina.net Mk1 Cortina Owners’ Club 07597 135847 https://mk1cortina.club
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SUSPENSION Years ago, most people would simply swap to Lotus suspension for the lower ride height, but as with most parts they’re becoming hard to find now — and expensive. Fortunately, at the front end your existing disc brake struts can be converted to Lotus-spec easily and relatively affordably by GAZ, who can also supply matching springs and damper inserts. Most however, prefer the modern approach of having their struts converted to coil-overs and inserts, giving adjustable ride height and damper stiffness.There are a few companies that can do this or you can attempt it yourself with an abutment kit. Pressed-steel track control arms (TCAs) were fitted to many of the non-sport models, and where possible these should be swapped for the far-stronger cast items. New, standardlength cast arms are no longer available, but you can buy the longer Lotus ones from BakerGinn. Adjustable track control arms, and eccentric top mounts will give some added adjustability and stability to the front end.There’s also a poly bush set for around to increase stiffness.
WHEELS AND TYRES For the rear set-up there’s a range of different-sized lowering blocks to give you the desired look and drop, which can be done on the standard leaf springs.You can convert to single leaf springs donated from the 2.8i Capri which increase the wheelbase slightly and give added stability with some clever swapping of the spring eye bushes. A matching pair of adjustable dampers can be had for around £200 (go for Lotus length on cars lowered 2 inches or more), while the axle can be more securely-located using the GT-style anti-tramp bars and brackets (now reproduced by Retro Ford) or an A-frame from Milton — both of these require the brackets to be welded on.
INTERIOR If you’re keeping the original interior, the news is good because thanks to Aldridge Trimming and East KentTrim there’s specialist help to get it restored — don’t expect a cheap bill though. However, the correct look inside will always make a classic Ford. Door cards for both the early and late series of cars are available as well as seat restoration and covering kits. But there is another route and that’s
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the stripped-out period race look, which is always a winner. A roll cage is easily sorted, while a restored and painted floor really adds to the effect. Swap in a set of period-style bucket seats (try Bad Boy Classics), along with a GT-style remote (or Wooler if you can find one), some period aftermarket ’60s gauges and you’re onto a winner — Mk1 Cortinas were built for this look.
There are a few things to consider when choosing wheel size as it has a knock-on effect to other areas of the car, such as what size brakes you can run, handling factors and general stance, so you need to think carefully about what you want out of the car. Both 13s or 15s are generally the preferred diameters, but this can again restrict height of the car and a lot of people like to drop Mk1s low — very low in most cases — to get the right look. On the front you can get away with a 6 inch wide-rim quite happily together with a 185 or even 195 tyre to go with it. At the back you can afford to go a little bit bigger with a 195 tyre on a 15 inch rim or 205 on a 13 inch rim with the right offset. The rear will take wider rims still and 7s have been known but inside the arches will need a little fettling.This mainly consists of modding the inner wheel tubs where it meets the outer skin by making them straight, rather than curved as standard.This will free up a bit of vital clearance. Style-wise, anything with a dish and in-keeping with the lines of the car will work, so that’s up to you. Make sure you avoid modern wheels with the wrong offset though!
“13 OR 15 INCH ARE GENERALLY THE PREFERRED WHEEL DIAMETERS”
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JUNE 3-6, 2021
FROM £399 * PER PERSON
HIT THE ROAD ON THE CLASSIC FORD TOUR Take your classic Ford to the Channel Islands in 2021 for the Jersey International Motor Festival
Info
We’re pleased to announce details of the 2021 Classic Ford Tour — and we’re heading to Jersey in early June for the world-famous International Motor Festival. Enjoy a four-day tour to the Channel Islands incorporating the 2021 Jersey International Motoring Festival. Sparkling seas, golden sands, rugged cliffs, picturesque harbours and fascinating countryside await the visitor to Jersey — a welcoming island that offers the best of Britain with the
added zest of France. The Jersey International Motoring Festival (JIMF) is the largest annual motoring event in the Channel Islands, comprising competitive sprint and hillclimbs for classic and vintage cars and motorcycles. There is a full programme of events for touring cars and motorcycles and the largest static motor show in the Channel Islands featuring motor and ancillary trade stands and exhibits from all Jersey motoring clubs.
For further details or to book your place call 01732 879153 or go to www.sceniccartours.com/classic-ford-tour *All prices are per person and based on two persons occupying a car and a twin/double room at the hotel. Single-occupancy supplement: £200.00
What’s included • Condor highspeed ferry crossing from Poole to Jersey • Entry to the JIMF Car Display Area on Saturday and Sunday • Three nights at the Superb Merton Hotel, St Helier • Buffet breakfast each morning • Buffet dinner each evening • Welcome drink • Full programme of spectator, motorsport and touring events • Organised Classic Ford Island Run • Detailed roadbook featuring maps, great drives, local attractions and JIMF event information • Complimentary car parking at all of the hotels • Commemorative
BUYER’S GUIDE
ORION MK2 If you want a classic Ford with a difference, then the refined and well-equipped Orion is well worth a look. Here’s what you need to know. Words ChristianTilbury Photos Adrian Brannan
T
he original Ford Orion might have been introduced as a bit of an afterthought to satisfy Cortina owners who couldn’t stomach the new-wave Sierra and even tempt some Escort buyers who weren’t sold on a hatchback, but when the Mk4 Escort was announced in 1986 a facelifted Orion was right beside it. There was good reason for Ford to freshen up the saloon, too. Despite the original being limited to more upmarket versions, it had proved quite a seller, with buyers appreciating the extra refinement and room afforded by the longer and stiffer bodyshell. For the Mk2 version, the Orion received the same updates as the Mk4 Escort, including more contemporary front and rear styling, updated trim, more sound deadening and a new Granada-style
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dashboard. The steering was also revised and the suspension was tweaked with new locations and settings in order to reduce lift under acceleration and dive when braking. The Lucas-Girling developed SCS (Skid Control System) anti-lock braking system was now also available on five-speed, CVH-equipped models, while customers had a choice of the existing 1.6-litre CVH engine, a new 1.4-litre ‘lean burn’ CVH or a newly-developed version of the 1.3-litre OHV engine. To tap into potential sales, and unlike with the Mk1, Ford didn’t limit the trim to the GL and Ghia, adding the L model at launch and then following up with the LX in September 1988. A whole host of special editions also followed, including the GLS, Classic, diesel-based DX, Biscayne and the 1600E that paid homage to its Cortina namesake.
There was a minor facelift in 1989, comprising a new body-coloured front grille, improved security and the addition of 1.3 HCS (High Compression Swirl) and 1.8 diesel engines, but in September 1990 Ford pulled the plug. While thousands of Mk2 Orions were sold – it was consistently one of the UK’s best-selling cars – it’s not a particularly common sight today. Admittedly, the fact it’s never been the first choice of the enthusiast has had an impact on survivors, but it’s certainly coming into its own as the popularity of front-wheel drive 1980s Fords continues to grow. Prices are on the up too, so if you want to grab a fine example of a booted classic Ford at relatively little, then the Mk2 Orion literally could be the last chance saloon.
THE OWNER Josh Woods He might only be 18, but Josh Woods already knows how good it is to own a classic Ford. He bought his 1989 Orion Classic mere weeks ago and he can’t get enough of driving the completely original, 1.3-litre OHV-powered saloon.Thought to be one of just six Classic models left, the Orion has covered just shy of 68,000 miles and until early 2020 was still in the possession of the original owner. It’s standard down to the factory radio and that’s exactly how Josh intends to keep it. “I’m trying my hardest not to use the Orion daily and I think I’ve washed it down every time I’ve been out, but I like how you have to really drive it compared to a modern car. I’m hoping to do a lot of shows with it in 2021 and it gets a great reaction wherever you go, people always want to talk about it.”
buyer’s guide: orion mk2
“AT THE TIME, BUYERS APPRECIATED THE EXTRA REFINEMENT”
BODY Rust is likely in the rear chassis rails bulkhead, battery tray, sills and the floor, particularly around the rear trailing arms; inner wings, front panel, rear lower quarters and inner rear arches. More visible rust spots are the outer rear wheel arches, door bottoms, front and rear screen surrounds, wings
and front of the bonnet. Some pattern panels and repair sections are available, including wings at circa £70 apiece, a set of sills at around £140 and a pair of rear outer arches costing in the region of £100. Damaged door mouldings and rear spoilers of higher spec versions are difficult to replace.
“RUST IS LIKELY IN THE REAR CHASSIS RAILS, SILLS AND FLOOR, ESPECIALLY AROUND THE REAR ARMS” BRAKES
INTERIOR Trim is pretty durable — the only common issues being wear to the armrests on the door cards and the seat material gong a bit furry as the miles mount up – but can be hard to replace. In particular, the Shadow Grey leather trim and American Cherry wood veneer of the 1600E is
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nigh-on impossible to find and carries a hefty premium when it does surface. Damp front carpet can be sign of serious corrosion in the bulkhead, while staining on the headlining of sunroof-equipped cars can point to blocked drainage channels, poor sealing or a rotten frame.
There’s little to worry about other than age-related wear. Even then, rectifying the likes of corroded or warped discs, seized rear wheel cylinders, oval drums and contaminated shoes is straightforward, with replacements being cheap and readily available. Optional SCS ABS system is crude but reasonably durable, faults usually being limited to damage to the system’s driveshaft drive belts. If they’re faulty then it should illuminate the dashboard warning light. Replacement belts won’t cost any more than £20 apiece.
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“WHEN THE MK4 ESCORT WAS LAUNCHED IN 1986, A FACELIFTED ORION WAS RIGHT BESIDE IT”
ELECTRICS
ENGINE A worn OHV motor won’t like ticking over and if it’s making an intermittent ‘clacking’ sound, then it’s a sign of the camshaft followers having split and cracked. The CVH is found in the majority of survivors, however. Listen for a rattling top end as it’s a sign of infrequently changed oil sludging up the hydraulic lifters and trashing the camshaft. A little bit of blue smoke isn’t usually an issue as it can be down to worn valve stem seals, but
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plumes of it under acceleration is sign of advanced wear. It’s not unusual for a tired CVH to dislodge its oil filler cap after a hard run or leave a fine mist of oil around the engine bay, although the often-perished rocker cover gasket can also cause the latter. A good service sorts most running issues, but poor idling on fuel-injected cars is usually caused by a gummed-up metering head, while a faulty fuel injection relay is often behind starting issues.
Erratic lighting can be down to faulty steering wheel stalks, but the cause behind most electrical issues is simply dirty or corroded earths and connections. For example, on better equipped cars, the shared earth for the central locking and electric windows is the most likely culprit if both are playing up. Replacing lights isn’t usually an issue, the only possible exception being the circular driving lights that tend to feature on some versions.
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buyer’s guide: orion mk2
TRANSMISSION BC ‘box isn’t the most precise but suspect a worn linkage if the shift is particularly vague. Gear selection problems can stem from the wear to the clutch’s self-adjusting plastic ratchet, while any jumping out of gear points to a selector issue. Rumbling that increases with speed is usually terminal, as is a noisy top gear on five-speed cars, the latter indicating that the gear has come loose on the input shaft and damaged the splines.
NEED TO KNOW Specialists
Burton Power 020 8518 9127 www.burtonpower.com Ex-Pressed Steel Panels 01535 632721 www.steelpanels.co.uk Magnum Classic Ford Panels 01706 359666 www.magnum classicfordpanels.co.uk
Motomobil www.motomobil.com
Clubs & Forums
Ford Orion Owners’ Group www.facebook.com/groups/ fordoriongroup Passionford www.passionford.com Scorted https://www.facebook.com/ groups/ScortedMK3
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VALUES £1500-£2500 MoT’d cars
£2500-£3500
Tidy to good examples
£3500-£5000+
Very good to excellent condition
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XXXXXXXXX
“FOR THE MK2, THE ORION RECEIVED THE SAME UPDATES AS THE MK4 ESCORT” TECH SPEC Body Four-door saloon, pressed steel monocoque
Engine
1392cc, four cylinders, transverse, two valves per cylinder, single overhead camshaft driven by external toothed belt, Weber 2V carburettor Power: 74 bhp @ 5600 rpm, 80 lb.ft @ 4000 rpm
Gearbox
SUSPENSION
Type BC four-speed manual, all-synchromesh, optional five-speed
ONE TO BUY
An unforgiving, bouncy ride points to tired dampers and springs, but they’re easy and cheap to replace. Vague steering, especially when accompanied with a clunking from the front end over bumps, points to worn track control arm bushes. On sale at: www.carandclassic.co.uk Price: £3500 For: Condition, originality Against: Auto ‘box not to everyone’s taste
1986 Ghia has covered just shy of 75.000 miles from new. Described by the motor trader vendor as being in “great condition” inside and out, it comes with the factory book pack, service history and three keys. The rare 1.6-litre automatic is completely original, even down to the standard radio, and will come with 12 months’ MoT. It will also be professionally detailed prior to sale.
Suspension
Front: independent by MacPherson struts, transverse anti-roll bar Rear: independent by transverse arms, longitudinal tie-bars, coil springs, telescopic dampers
Steering
Unassisted rack-and-pinion
Brakes
Hydraulic with vacuum servo assistance Front: 240 mm ventilated discs Rear: 180 mm drums
Wheels and tyres
“CLUNKING FROM THE FRONT POINTS TO WORN TCA BUSHES” 28
November 2017
5x13 inch steels, 155/70SR13 tyres
Performance
Maximum speed: 104 mph 0-60 mph: 12.9 seconds
Price when launched £6455
Thanks
Josh Woods
NEXT MONTH SIERRA MK1
custom load-lug-
TOP 10 INSURANCE TIPS There are lots of ways you can cut insurance costs. Here are 10 tips on how you can do it effectively and still come away with the right policy for you and your classic Ford. 1. Don’t just renew It’s all too easy to let the direct debit continue and sign up for another year with your existing insurer. Before you do though, have a look at quotes from other insurers. If they come in cheaper and you don’t want to switch, call your existing insurer, quote the cheaper prices and quite often they will be able to bring your renewal quote down to a similar level. 2. Look at classic insurance They’re often tied into AgreedValue, limited-mileage polices but classic insurance specialists can offer some great-value policies. Most class a vehicle eligible for classic insurance as being over 20 or 25 years old, but some allow exceptions for modern classics, so do your research before you dismiss a classic insurance policy out of hand if you own a newer Ford. 3. Know the market Don’t assume the same people who sort out your house insurance will always understand the exclusiveness of your Puma Racing. Do your research and make sure that they know your Ford isn’t just any old car.
4. Disclose all modifications Even minor modifications such as an aftermarket air filter should be disclosed, or the insurance company could refuse to pay out if the unthinkable happens. It’s worth noting that not all modifications will necessarily increase your insurance premium. 5. Get Agreed Value Where possible, go for a policy from a company that will give you an agreed valuation, so your Ford is insured for what it’s actually worth. 6. Join a club Many insurance companies offer cheaper schemes and policies through affiliated car clubs, because they recognise that club members are enthusiasts who care about their cars. 7. Limit the number of drivers Try to limit the amount of drivers covered on your insurance policy - if it’s your car, then the insurance company will understand that you are going to drive it with the knowledge that you’ve paid for it.
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8. Do less miles There is the temptation to drive your cherished Ford everywhere, but picking the right moments can lead to saving money on insurance. A reduction in mileage means there’s less risk involved and insurance companies will pick up on that fact. Always be honest with your yearly mileage, as you don’t want to run the risk of it affecting a claim. 9. Invest in security Immobilisers, GPS trackers, steering locks or anything that will stop those light-fingered scumbags having away with your Ford is worth doing, and quite often will be a requirement for an insurance policy.They may even ask what type of locks are fitted to your garage doors. 10. Don’t over-value your car Overvaluing a classic Ford when applying for an insurance quote could lead to an increase on the premium price. Most cherished Fords tend to hold their value, but you should be cautious in how you rate one.
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Rustproof the rear of a front-wheel-drive Ford Follow our guide to keeping tinworm away from the rear suspension on most front-wheel-drive classic Fords.
Words and Photos Rob Hawkins
F
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ront-wheel-drive (FWD) Fords ranging from a Fiesta to a Mondeo all seem to suffer from corrosion in the rear suspension. One of the biggest threats concerns the rear coil springs, especially those that are separate to the telescopic damper. They usually sit on a spring pan, which may be part of a lower suspension arm, or part of a beam and trailing arm set-up. Whatever the arrangement, those spring pans often fill up with dirt and water, so they eventually corrode. At worst, the coil spring becomes dislodged or even fractured because it too has rotted away. Taking the approach that prevention is better than cure, the following steps
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show how to rust protect these spring pans to help avoid corrosion. In some cases, the work can be conducted in situ, providing the coil spring can be safely removed. If it can’t, then removal of a spring pan/arm can be timeconsuming and potentially problematic with seized fastenings, so it may be easier to overhaul a used spring pan/ arm, then swap it over afterwards. There are a number of safety points to note when completing the work shown. The most important concerns raising a vehicle and supporting it. Position the vehicle on level ground and use axle stands – do not rely on a trolley jack or similar lifting device to support a raised vehicle. When removing coil springs,
make sure they are not compressed before touching them, and keep your fingers out of the coils in case they get trapped. If you have an angle grinder and a selection of wire wheels, brushes and cups to be able to quickly clean rusty metal, remember that this equipment will propel metal and other debris everywhere, so protect yourself with a full-face mask, gloves and overalls. Lots of dust will be generated, so wear a breathing mask and most angle grinders are noisy, so wear ear plugs or ear defenders. There’s no quick fix to rustproofing the rear suspension on a FWD Ford, so take your time and allow a long weekend to complete all of the work.
Info Tools required: Angle grinder, axle stands, breaker bar, breathing mask, decorator’s scraper, ear plugs/defenders, full-face mask, gloves, impact driver, paint brush, penetrating fluid, rust inhibitor, screwdrivers, stonechip paint, torque wrench, trolley jack, vice, wire brush, wire wheel/brush/cup Thanks to: MJ Motors 01924 472404 Tasker & Lacy 0113 2743362 www.taskerandlacy. com
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RESTO FEATURES INSIDE THIS ISSUE:
READER’S RESTORATION
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This is a typical trailing arm rear suspension beam used on many front-wheel-drive Fords.The biggest threat is corrosion of the coil spring pans, which can cause the springs to dislodge.
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Once each mounting bolt has been slackened, continue undoing them with a ratchet, or if you have an impact driver, this will be much quicker. Wind the bolt in and out to help clean the thread.
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86 SIERRA ClassicFord Letters COSWORTH
Expert buying tips to help you find the best example of the icon
Wayne Champion’s turned his Mk4 Cortina 3.0S into something truly special
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Catching the corrosion before it goes too far is essential and this work can be done in situ by extracting the coil springs. Start by spraying penetrating fluid over the lower mounting bolts for the dampers.
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With the rear dampers detached, carefully raise the rear of the vehicle to release the coil springs. Raise the vehicle underneath the sills, not under the rear suspension. Visually check the coil springs are not trapped.
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Using a breaker bar, try to undo the lower mounting bolts for each rear damper.They may be threaded into a captive nut, so make sure they have been soaked in penetrating fluid.
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When the rear of the vehicle has been sufficiently raised to release the tension in the rear coil springs, position axle stands underneath the back of the sills. Do not rely solely on a trolley jack.
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Carefully extract each rear coil spring, but only do this if they are not compressed. Keep your fingers away from the coils — only touch the top and bottom sections of each coil spring.
Use a blunt screwdriver to poke around inside the spring pan — the area where the bottom of each coil spring sits.This needs to be structurally sound, so scrape and poke it to check the metal is solid.
Use a wire brush to remove any flaky rust, road dirt and anything else that shouldn’t be inside the spring pan. Clean the underside and surrounding area as well. Check any drain holes are clear.
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It may be easier to use a metal decorator’s scraper to remove rust and dirt from the spring pan and surrounding area.There’s no quick method, but thorough preparation for rustproofing is essential.
An angle grinder with a selection of wire cups, wheels and brushes can help to speed-up the job of removing rust and dirt. Wear a full-face mask, breathing mask and ear plugs/defenders.
You probably won’t be able to remove all the rust, so any surface corrosion should be treated with a rust inhibitor, which turns the remaining iron oxide to iron tannate. It cannot fix rusty holes.
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Leave the rust inhibitor to dry. It should turn from white to blue and finally black. A second coat may be required.This acts as a primer, so more paint will be required to protect the metalwork.
Apply a hard-wearing paint. We sprayed a thick stonechip protective paint over the spring pans and also along the rest of the rear suspension, applying several thin coats and leaving it for 24 hours to fully dry.
After painting, further protection can help, such as a wax or similar rustproofing liquid. We used a heavy grade lubricant called Prolan, which is from Witham Oil & Paint. It remains tacky and helps protect the spring pan.
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Once all the rust protection has dried, reassemble the rear suspension. Check how to refit the coil springs, ensuring the ends are correctly inserted into any grooves in the spring pan, along with any rubber mounts.
Use a screwdriver to align the mounting holes for the bottom damper mounts. It may help to carefully lower the rear of the vehicle back onto its wheels, but check the springs remain correctly seated.
After refitting the mounting bolts for the dampers, lower the vehicle back onto its wheels, checking the coil springs are seated properly.Tighten those damper mounting bolts to the recommended torque setting.
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Some FWD Fords, such as this Mk4 Escort, have removable rear spring pans/arms, which are just as prone to corrosion, but at least they can be swapped for a pair that are in better condition.
It may be easier to buy a used spring pan/arm, then clean and paint it prior to the swap. A wire brush and scraper are the basic tools you’ll need, but it may take half an hour or more to do this.
A quicker method of cleaning a spring pan/arm is to use an angle grinder with a wire brush or cup. Wear protective clothing (see step 11) and secure the arm in a vice to keep a grip of it when cleaning.
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The same rust protection procedures can be applied to a spring pan/arm as outlined in steps 12-15. With the component removed, there’s the potential to do a better job and take your time.
Swapping over a spring pan/arm can be a nightmare of a job, especially if fittings are seized, so it may be one for your local garage. At least you can do the preparation work on the replacement arm.
The horrors of corrosion are often only evident when a component such as this spring pan/arm is removed.The corrosion in the arm on the right cannot be repaired and will fail the MoT test.
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