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About UnCapped UnCapped magazine is published quarterly by The Frederick News-Post, 351 Ballenger Center Drive, Frederick, MD 21703. It is distributed free in Frederick and Montgomery counties in Maryland, in select locations around Baltimore, and in Loudoun County, Virginia. Send comments to UnCapped@newspost.com. To advertise, contact 301-662-1163 or advertising@newspost.com.
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* R E I N H E I T S G E B O T:
UnCapped
Podcast
From Wikipedia: Sometimes called the "German Beer Purity Law" in English, [it’s] is a series of regulations limiting the ingredients in beer in Germany and the states of the former Holy Roman Empire.
CHRIS SANDS
A German, a Swede & an American Walk into a Brewery Way back on April 1, Keith Marcoux, co-founder of Olde Mother Brewing Co. in Frederick, Maryland, sent me a text that said, “Do you want to do a culture podcast with American brewers from Sweden and Germany? I know both and they are here on vaca at the same time!” Once I figured out he wasn’t trying to pull some sort of lame April Fools’ joke, I jumped at the opportunity. A few days later, David Renninger (owner of Libertus Craft Brewing in Germany), Peter Lincoln (owner of Brewing Költur AB in Sweden), Keith, and I met to record an episode about craft beer culture in Sweden and Germany. Listen to the full episode at www. uncappedpodcast.com.
Chris Sands: So you said the craft-brewing community in Germany is small. David Renninger: Yeah. C.S.: So there are just not many craft breweries. Is that because of, I’m not even going to try to pronounce it … D.R.: Reinheitsgebot.* C.S.: Yeah, I’ll let you guys say it. Is it because of that or because Germans just don’t have a taste for what Americans consider [good craft beer], and, actually, even the craft brewers in Germany, are you able to brew like the styles Americans are brewing or are you not even able to do that?
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D.R.: All IPAs kind of, in Germany, came at once…Hazy IPAs already existed here in the U.S. so some people, you know, made some in Germany. People were making your regular, say, East Coast IPAs, some West Coast IPAs. And so all IPA styles, at least for Germany, came at once because the craft brewer revolution ...has really only taken off in the last two to three years….
L TO R: David Renninger of Libertus Craft Brewing in Germany, Peter Lincoln of Brew-
ing Költur in Sweden, and Keith Marcoux, co-founder of Olde Mother Brewing Co. in Frederick, Maryland volume, was around 13.4 percent of all beer sold was craft beer. In Germany, in the grocery stores and the liquor stores, craft beer makes up 0.14 percent of all beers sold. So it’s still really small. Most of the guys who are in it know each other. There’s definitely a taste for it. New guys are popping up all the time, especially in major cities like Berlin. Berlin just four years ago had two, three craft breweries. One was an American-led one. And now they’ve got Stone in Berlin.
C.S.: Yeah, yeah. Was it last year that opened? D.R.: One or two years ago... I like to compare it to, most likely, how the market in the U.S. was in the ’80s and ’90s for craft beer. Keith Marcoux: Back when craft beer was not cool. D.R.: So they come to the table, they see a menu, they
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have no idea what’s on the menu, so you really have to explain it to them. We hold beer tastings and go over the whole brewing process, the ingredients process and they get excited about it. So then they start asking questions themselves and get more interested in it and suddenly they are not drinking their normal everyday beer. They’re coming over and saying, “Oh, I want to try that one.” Or you get people who didn’t event drink beer to begin with because most places in Germany will have your three typical styles of beer: a pils, a hefeweizen, a wheat beer, and what’s called a kellerbier, which is an amber beer, like a lager.
K.M.: Would that be like an alt beer? D.R.: Alt beer’s a little different because they use a different yeast. The alt beer yeast ferments at a
higher temperature, about 15 degrees Celsius. It’s closer to an ale yeast.
K.M.: I gotcha. So you’re going to get some more fruit and some different ester creations. D.R.: And a differing hopping profile. This is more of an amber lager beer that is more malt-forward but hopped enough that with late hops you get in the end. C.S.: So are IPAs popular at all there? D.R.: Absolutely. C.S.: It’s not unique to Americans, the craving of an IPA? D.R.: No, no. Hoppy beers, they sell the best. They attract the most people, especially the younger generation. So just like here, it’s going to be most people’s No. 1 go-to craft beer, a hoppy beer, a pale ale or an IPA.
K.M.: … What are we sipping on? C.S.: I don’t know what you guys started with, but I’m pouring Ace. Peter Lincoln: Started with a Lithuanian Ace.
K.M.: Sporto with the Lithuanian yeast. Which is close, Peter, to where you reside? P.L.: We’re not far away…. We have a hefeweizen and an IPA, a saison, which is what we’re known for. But in Sweden, as far as the haze craze, absolutely it is alive and kicking. I don’t think there’s a single brewery that hasn’t tried a New England IPA in Sweden, really, nowadays. ….There are some breweries in Europe that are doing a lot of fruited IPAs, as well, which now I think is being called a Florida IPA. It’s a little bit tart and fruited, but then also very tropical. You know, the modern hop-forward juice bombs. But they’re literally using purees and juices and real fruit. So in our case, I would say that Germany is kind of where Sweden was when we started our brewery.
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CHRIS SANDS
D.R.: So, to an extent. To answer the first part, the craft beer scene is quite small. I read the brewers association report, the 2018 annual growth report. In the U.S., I think it was sales by
C.S.: So, what about the hazy beer craze, does that exist in Germany or Sweden?
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Sips & Shots
Baseball Team Opens Craft Pub Breweries, bars and your house aren’t the only places to enjoy local craft beer. The Frederick Keys, a minor league baseball team in Frederick, Maryland, opened its own pub in May. Called the 4 ½ Taphouse after the number of innings required for a regulation baseball game, it has 24 taps with beer from local breweries, including Flying Dog, Brewer's Alley, Monocacy Brewing Company, Attaboy, Olde Mother, Rockwell, Midnight Run, Idiom, Steinhardt, Smoketown, Red Shedman and Milkhouse. Check it out, and catch a game while you’re at it. More info and tickets at FrederickKeys.com.
MEET THE BREWER If any brewery in Maryland deserves more attention it’s Saints Row Brewing. Co-founder and brewmaster Tony Prebula is quietly turning out amazing beer at his Rockville-based brewery. He also took some time to answer my silly questions.
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What is your favorite Netflix/TV show? “The Office,” hands down. If you could only have one final beer, what would you choose? Sorachi Ace by Brooklyn Brewery. That saison was a big game changer for me as I moved into craft beer. I always get nostalgic when I see it available, and I have to get it. If you could have a beer with any person dead or alive, who would it be and why? I would have to say my grandfather Julius. I was 9 when he passed away. He was a chef in the Navy during WWII, and was a butcher when he came back. I had no appreciation for how hard he worked until I got into this industry—the early and long hours, the manual
labor, and just the grind it takes to be successful. I certainly feel connected with him because of my work. I would want the chance to sit with him and talk about what I am doing, and perhaps let him know how much I appreciate how hard he worked all those years for his family. What is the strangest ingredient that you have used in a beer? Probably bacon. We brewed a maple bacon porter last fall. We ran the bacon through a dehydrator then baked it to remove as much grease and fat as possible, then added it after fermentation. A real nice smoky and bacon character. What were your childhood dreams? To be a marine biologist. -Chris Sands
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Things to Know About Rosé
1. C olor indicates style, but not
necessarily quality. The color is a reflection of how long the juice stayed on the skins after pressing, before being bled off. Lighter pink means lighter style and body. Darker rosés may have more extraction and body, even a hint of tannin.
2. Second-year rosé can still be delicious. A well-crafted rosé can gain an extra dimension with a little age.
3. Rosé is perfect for summer. But it’s
not exclusive to summer. Its versatility with food makes it a good candidate to have on the table at Thanksgiving, for example.
4. It’s great with spicy foods. If you love the hot-and-numbing spice of Sichuan cuisine but believe only beer can stand up to all those chiles, try a rosé. The heat amplifies the wine’s fruitiness. Rosé is also good with paprika-spiked dishes of Spain and the eastern Mediterranean, and dishes with pungent accents of olives or capers. -The Washington Post
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BREWER: CHRIS SANDS; BASEBALL, WINE: GETTY IMAGES
Where do you get your inspiration for your beers and their names? I have a number of inspirations in the brewery. Due to the extreme flexibility of our production, I am constantly being inspired by new things and pulled in new directions. But at the end of the day, it’s our guests at the brewery who dictate and inspire what we brew. I want to create things that excite them and that they will enjoy. Whether that’s rolling with a good old-school-style English brown, or throwing
ridiculous amounts of fruit into a triple IPA, I am brewing for the people in my neighborhood. The names for our beers come from all over the place. Some are inspired by artists and music, like our Cuban coffee milk stout called Bebo & Cachao, or imperial stout called Dark Necessities. Sometimes the names come from something to do with the style or approach we took, like our dry clean pilsner, Juice Cleanse. I also consider myself to be pretty funny, and who doesn’t like a beer pun? We brewed a witbier with cardamom called Yes, You Look That Young. And then sometimes I just think something sounds cool, so I’ll make a beer just so I can use the name. That’s happened a few times, like with Organic Hype Machine, a triple IPA.
Pics Picks
WHOM TO FOLLOW
Of course, you should also follow Chris: @uncappd.
Who: @isbeeracarb Bio: Megan is a brewer in San Diego, but is originally from Baltimore. Her career began in 2015 when she spent a summer working at Dogfish Head. She brewed her first beer ever on a SABCO BrewMagic system for a coworker competition and won second place. Next, she interned at a small brewery in Delaware called Mispillion River Brewing until moving to the West Coast. She has brewed for Refuge Brewery, Mikkeller, and now Modern Times Beer. Why: Megan provides an insightful behind-the-scenes look at being a brewer, as well as some fun travel photos. Her screen name also asks one of society’s most burning questions: Is beer a carb?
• BY CHRIS SANDS •
COURTESY OF CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: @ISBEERACARB; @SQUIRRELFARTSPHOTO; @THEREALBEERWIVES; @UNCAPEVERYTHING; @A.GIRL.RATES.BEER
THERE IS NO DOUBT
that social media plays a huge role in craft beer culture, and Instagram is perhaps the most relevant. Breweries use the platform to update people on can releases and consumers share the latest sought-after beer that they scored. Search for #craftbeer and you’ll find over 21 million results. I love Instagram, so I thought I would share a few accounts that I enjoy and think you should follow.
Who: @a.girl.rates.beer
Who: @UncapEverything
Who: @therealbeerwives
Who: @squirrelfartsphoto
Bio: Beck has been in the beer Instagram game for about two years, focusing mainly on Midwest breweries. Occasionally, she showcases breweries from her travels. The main idea of her Instagram is reviewing beers for everyday craft lovers, not necessarily highly trained cicerones. Why: I follow Beck because I find her reviews to be interesting, and you can’t help but love seeing how much she enjoys herself.
Bio: UncapEverything is a Richmond, Virginia-based craft beer lifestyle and experience brand. Founder and owner Eric Jackson also runs The Capsoul Collective, a group dedicated to diversifying taprooms while expanding palates through monthly podcasts, magazines and a hop crawl event. Why: Eric seems like someone I would enjoy sitting down and having a beer with. I also find his posts educational.
Bio: They’re beer-loving best friends who capture the behindthe-scenes logistics of beer photography. What started out as sharing funny photos of their husbands has expanded to an account dedicated to shedding light on the ridiculous, awkward, and extreme lengths people go to for the perfect beer photo. Why: It’s simply a hilarious concept. Also, I’ve been “shamed” in one of their posts.
Bio: Squirrelfartsphoto is owned and operated by Tim Ganotis, a commercial product photographer based in Portland, Maine. His style usually features bright, bold colors, crafty editing tricks, and the occasional dinosaur or house cat. Why: Tim is a super-talented photographer whose photos are often elaborate and expertly lit. He posts behind-the-scenes stories explaining how he set up the shots.
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drink these. you’ll feel better.
Brew Your Own WANT TO CHALLENGE YOURSELF A BIT and try your hand at making a lager? Take a crack at this home brew recipe for Diamondback Brewing Company’s Forte Pilsner, courtesy of the Baltimore company’s brewmaster Tom Foster. Original Gravity: 12.15 Plato (1.049 SG) Final Gravity: 2.56 Plato (1.010 SG) Percent ABV: 4.9% IBU: 23 Grist Bill: Amounts are based on a 6.5-gallon boil with 77% efficiency: German Pilsner Malt (I prefer Best Malz) – 10 lb.,12.5 oz. (100%) 151F mash temperature for one hour. Slight addition of gypsum (1g). This will vary based on water. Most public water sources will be too hard to match a classic pilsner water profile, so work with what you can. Avoid calcium chloride additions. Tailor lactic acid additions to hit a mash pH of 5.3. 90 minute boil, with the following hop & kettle fining additions for a 6.5 gallon boil: 20 minutes – Hallertauer Mittelfrueh, 2.3oz (3.4% AA) – 14.5 IBU 0 minutes (steep/whirlpool 15 minutes) – Hallertauer Mittelfrueh 2.7oz (3.4% AA) – 8.7 IBU Hessian Pils Yeast (The Yeast Bay) or sub any German light lager yeast. Primary at 70F until yeast is active, then slowly drop to 48F for the rest of primary fermentation. Once the gravity is within 1.5 plato of final gravity, free rise the temperature to finish primary.
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GRAHAM CULLEN
Rest for a day or two and test for diacetyl. If sensory test passes, drop 5 degrees per day until you reach 33 degrees. Transfer to lagering vessel and lager for as long as your patience permits. I shoot for four months. FACEBOOK.COM/UNCAPPD
From Dutch to Dusk Mark Vierthaler, head distiller at Tenth Ward Distilling Company in Frederick, Maryland, offered this sweet recipe to psyche you up for summer. • 2 oz Tenth Ward Genever Style Gin • 1.5 oz Campari • 1.5 oz sweet vermouth • Fresh orange peel for garnish
BILL GREEN
Combine the gin, Campari and sweet vermouth in a rocks glass. Fill the glass with ice, leaving enough room to comfortably stir the drink to mix the ingredients. Fill the rest of the way with ice. Twist the orange peel over the glass to express the citrus oils over the cocktail. Garnish. Sip and enjoy.
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GRAHAM CULLEN
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Low-Cal Brews Can Actually
Taste Great S
• BY KATE MASTERS •
lightly Mighty, a new IPA from Dogfish Head Brewery, is hoppy and crisp with a clean, dry finish. And at 95 calories and 3.6 grams of carbs (comparable to Michelob Ultra, the reigning king of low-cal beer), it’s one of the latest—and best—examples in a growing market for “healthy” brews. “You’re starting to see more and more versions of light beers, except people aren’t calling them light beers,” said Hugh Sisson, the founder of Heavy Seas Beer in Baltimore. “They’re calling them ‘low-calorie’ or emphasizing the electrolytes like you would for a sports drink. So it’s this interesting trend, I think, of marketing these more health-conscious products.” For years, Michelob Ultra —one of the only macrobrews whose sales have gone up in the past 10 years—had a stronghold on the market. But Dogfish Head was one of the first craft brewers to expand the trend with a novel idea: healthy-ish beers that actually taste, you know, good. One of its first lower calorie options was the ever-popular SeaQuench, a citrusy sour named “Best LowUNCAPPEDNEWS.COM
“I tried [BrewDog’s] gluten-free pale ale and it actually tasted good.” - Rockwell brewer Scott McKernon
Cal Beer” by Men’s Health magazine for two straight years. SeaQuench wasn’t specifically branded as low calorie—it clocks in at 140 per can—but Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione did work with the Gatorade Sports Science Institute to brew a sour packed with electrolytes from black limes and sea salt. For Slightly Mighty, Calagione shaved off a third of the calories by brewing the beer
with monk fruit extract, a naturally occurring calorie-free sweetener. And unlike Michelob, a product described as “beer-flavored La Croix” by a writer at Esquire, the IPA is packed with flavor. That factor is particularly important for smaller craft brewers who might not be able to unseat Michelob Ultra, but still want to edge into the market with a superior product. Locally, Scott McKernon with Rockwell Brewery in Frederick is attempting a similar project. The brewer began experimenting with gluten-free beers after a visit to BrewDog, a craft beer company in Scotland, where he had a semi-transformative encounter. “I tried their gluten-free pale ale and it actually tasted good,” McKernon said. Normally, gluten-free beers are made with alternative grains like quinoa or sorghum, which are naturally free of gluten proteins but often yield a pretty unpalatable final product. But BrewDog, McKernon discovered, was relying on an enzyme called Clarity Ferm, which essentially eats the gluten in traditional barley-brewed beers. “When I got home, I decided to order the enzyme and brew a test batch,” McKernon said.
When he sent the beer off for testing, it came back with only 10 parts of gluten per million, well below the FDA standard of 20 ppm for gluten-free products. Rockwell now has two gluten-free beers on tap, including an IPA called Spacegrass and a blonde ale called Rapture. The beers aren’t specifically low-calorie, but McKernon does think they appeal to more health-conscious consumers who think about the nutrition labels on what they eat. The brewer is also in the process of testing an intentionally low-cal beer with a smaller grain bill and low sugar content. He doesn’t want to eradicate the residual sugars completely (they’re an important factor in the final mouthfeel of the beer), but he does plan to produce a final product that’s less than 200 calories per pint. And, like Slightly Mighty, the beer should have plenty of flavor, thanks to McKernon’s decision to steep his hops in a wort cooled to below 180 degrees. “That way, you’re getting all the aroma and flavor without the bitterness,” the brewer said. “And you’re making a beer that’s lower calorie but still tastes like something you’d want to drink.” U N C A P P E D | SUMMER 2019
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A Brew is
UnCapped’s Chris Sands teamed up with True Respite Brewing Co. in Rockville, Maryland, to create Beach Drink, a 4.2 ABV brew great for summer sipping. Here’s a glimpse of how they did it.
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Transferring wort back to the brew kettle.
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Kenneth Allen kicks off the brew day by getting the water to temperature before sparging, which is running the water over grain.
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Sands removes spent grain, which is what’s left after extraction of fermentable sugars. Breweries often give this to farmers to use as feed for livestock. GRAHAM CULLEN
Lautering the beer, which is recirculating the mash through the grain bed to clarify the wort. Wort is the liquid extracted that contains the essential sugars that will be fermented during brewing.
Brian McGlynn checks the boil, which kills unwanted enzymes and stabilizes the wort by lowering its pH.
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s Born Sands pours probiotics into the wort to introduce lactobacillus, which is a strain of bacteria used when brewing a kettle sour.
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Labels are loaded onto the canning line.
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Beach Drink flows into the cans.
The finished product ready for distribution.
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A worker monitors just-filled cans that are ready to have labels applied. UNCAPPEDNEWS.COM
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Jumping
Shark the
Glitter me this: Are gimmicks giving the craft industry a bad name? • BY CHRIS SANDS •
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I
s craft beer jumping the shark? That’s a question a lot of enthusiasts were asking this spring. Although, before jumping into this, I should explain what that means. One thing I’ve learned is that “jumping the shark” is not as ubiquitous a saying as I thought it was. Wikipedia explains it’s “the moment when something that was once popular that no longer warrants the attention it previously received makes an attempt at publicity, which only serves to highlight its irrelevance.” First, we had the release of Saturday Morning by Smartmouth Brewing Company in Norfolk, Virginia. It was a simple idea that had been done many times:
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Put marshmallows in a beer. But something was different this time. Maybe it was the release date being close to Saint Patrick’s Day. Maybe it was the can’s resemblance to a Lucky Charms cereal box. Next was a beer from DuClaw Brewing Co. in Baltimore called Sour Me Unicorn Farts. This beer not only had cereal (Fruity Pebbles), but also edible glitter in the can. Unicorn Farts had everything needed to go viral—a creative name, eye-catching artwork, and glitter. Both beers were all over social media, which really isn’t that strange considering how much craft beer is discussed online. What was out of the ordinary was how much coverage both of these beers received from mainstream media.
However, not everyone was impressed. Many comments decried the use of “gimmicks,” saying the beers were overhyped. “Craft beer was interesting and cool five years ago,” user GetTheYayo posted on the Beeradvocate forums, for example. “Now it’s just a caricature of itself with an ever-expanding tent. From the Independent Craft Association effectively blacklisting other breweries for not being ‘indie’ enough, to seemingly mandatory huge beards, to secondary market price gouging, and now this. I’m taking a break from it all....” These beers were just two examples of the rapidly increasing trend of breweries trying to stand out in a crowded field of options by making beers that some people consider gimmicky. Kevin Blodger,
co-founder of Union Craft Brewing in Baltimore, falls into that camp. “Craft beer hasn’t jumped the shark. There is still great flavored beer to be found, but I will say this new generation of ticker [someone who just wants to check off new beers they’ve tried] doesn’t seem to like beer that much,” Blodger said. “It seems they want alcoholic soda more than beer, and the fact that [they want] beer with cereal and glitter and all this other b******t—I guess I should say no offense and to each their own, blah blah—speaks to that. I guess if you need to sell beer or you like it, who … am I to say don’t do it. I like flavorful beer, but I draw the line at whacky b******t in my beers. You want to do a cask or something, go Con’t. on 21
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Preparing the batter for the waffles in the chicken and waffles dish, below
In my never-ending quest to get paid to take classes about alcohol (gin, whiskey, and bourbonmaking classes so far) my wife Beth and I signed up to take a cooking with beer class. • BY CHRIS SANDS •
T
he class was held at The Kitchen Studio Cooking School in Frederick, Maryland, in conjunction with Flying Dog Brewery this spring.
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shrimp po’boys, chicken and waffles, and a chocolate beer milkshake. Remember, I said to go hungry. Van Bloem’s warm and convivial approach helped put even the novices among us at ease. Cooking stations were set up, and some ingredients were even premeasured. The group divided up and executed the recipes.
The instructors not only explained the techniques used to create the dishes, but also how the recipes were skillfully composed to complement the Flying Dog beers. You even got to take the recipes home with you to try in your own kitchen. Throughout the class, Tarnow
served 10 different Flying Dog offerings (remember, I told you not to drive), and he explained the composition of each beer and which foods best complement it. As each dish was complete, we learned plating techniques and tasted the fruits of our labor, gathering around a large family-style table FACEBOOK.COM/UNCAPPD
CHRIS SANDS
First, two key pieces of advice: 1. Don’t eat the day you take the class, and possibly not even the day before. You’ll be making and consuming a lot of delicious food. 2. Do not plan to drive. Definitely get a ride, or stay at the hotel right next to The Kitchen Studio, because you’ll have a ton of delicious beer from Flying Dog to enjoy. Luckily for us, this was a special class. It was the first one Kitchen Studio Chef Christine Van Bloem had taught after having shoulder surgery. You could tell she was happy to be back in the kitchen sharing her passion for cooking. It was also clear that Van Bloem and Professor Justin Tarnow of Flying Dog University had invested a lot of time to ensure that both the food and the beer forged a symbiotic relationship. Another bonus of this season’s class—the menu changes every three months—was the Southern-inspired menu: cheesy pull-apart bread,
Beth Sands and Chef Christine Van Bloem show off chicken and waffles.
Chef Van Bloem presents a tray of fried shrimp.
FLYING DOG BEER CHEESE
Crafting a gonzo milkshake for dessert
4 servings INGREDIENTS •8 ounce(s) cheddar cheese, extra
sharp, shredded • 1 /2 teaspoon garlic powder • 1 /2 teaspoon mustard, dry • 1 /4 teaspoon cayenne • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce • 1 /2 cup Flying Dog Doggie Style
Beer, plus more if needed to make texture smooth • s alt •p epper •p retzels
for our marathon feast. Just as we took our last bites of chicken and waffles, they served a decadent gonzo milkshake! Finally, to make the night even more fantastic, staff cleaned up everything. Cooking With Beer at The Kitchen Studio was downright awesome. I UNCAPPEDNEWS.COM
enjoyed myself so much I might just go back to try one of the non-beerfocused classes. You can find a full listing of the classes they offer at kitchenstudiofrederick.com. You can also go to bit.ly/uncapped134 to listen to a podcast I recently recorded with Flying Dog’s Tarnow. We discussed cooking with
beer, as well as other classes the brewery offers. For more information about cooking with beer in general, keep an eye on UnCapped’s social media for a series of videos we’re planning to do with Van Bloem, as well as Chef Niko Negas of Roasthouse Pub in Frederick.
DIRECTIONS
Combine grated cheese, garlic powder, dry mustard, cayenne, Worcestershire sauce, a good pinch of salt and a good pinch of pepper in a food processor. Pulse a few times, then puree, slowly adding beer as processor works. Puree until smooth.
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The Big Winners Frederick distilleries bag double gold at San Francisco World Spirits Competition • BY TRIPP LAINO •
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But if everything does go right, the results can be fantastic. And some of the aged products that MISCellaneous and McClintock have recently created are just that, according to the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, one of the toughest in the world for distilled spirits. Judges spends four days completing blind tasting on dozens of products. They don’t have any information on price point or the producer. Each spirit is evaluated on an individual basis, meaning they’re not compared to one another. Judges then award bronze, silver and gold medals. Spirits that receive a gold from all the judges receive a coveted double gold award. Both distilleries won double gold medals for aged spirits, and MISCellaneous took a double gold for its unaged Gregarious Gin. Each also won a handful of other awards.
MCCLINTOCK DISTILLING, FREDERICK
• Matchstick Straight Bourbon, Double Gold Matchstick is the first straight bourbon from Maryland to win a double gold. Aged for two years, “it’s a wheated bourbon which gives it that nice, soft, full-bodied whiskey, and a little rye to finish it off with a black-pepper robust note,” Bumpers said. “It’s what we love about rye combined with what we love about bourbon. What we found is in the larger operations, they’re using the same exact grain—something like 70% of the bourbons on the market are using the same corn genetically. We wanted to break from that, using heritage grains to bring back the history of Maryland distilling.” McClintock description: This
Kenneth Green, Zac Kennedy, and Tyler Hegamyer show off McClintock Distilling winners.
bourbon is a certified organic, wheated rye finished bourbon made 100 percent grain to glass at our distillery. We implement heritage, nonGMO corn, wheat and rye and mill the grains on-site on our historic stone-burr mill to decrease friction and preserve the soft and delicate oils and naturally occurring enzymes in the grain. The bourbon is processed in a single pass distillation and small-batch barreled in 30-gallon, medium char white American oak barrels. We age the whiskey for a full two years to create a balanced whiskey with rich woody notes, but still allow the beautiful grain complexity to shine through. FACEBOOK.COM/UNCAPPD
CHRIS SANDS
hen you age distilled spirits, a lot is left up to chance. You’re hoping you’ve chosen the right barrel that, with the aid of time, will add complex, interesting flavors from the wood. But it’s a delicate gamble: Time in the barrel could either take your unaged spirit to the next level, or to an unappetizing place. “It’s actually terrifying,” said Dan McNeill, who co-owns MISCellaneous Distillery with his wife Meg McNeill. “You put all this effort into this product, and you say, ‘I’m going to put this in a barrel. I’ve never done this before, but I’m going to assume the barrels these people have made [have] the utmost quality and the spirit I made is of the utmost quality and hope something good comes out.” Braeden Bumpers, owner of McClintock Distilling, echoed similar sentiments. “That’s definitely the hardest part in our industry that breweries don’t necessarily have to look at … the complexity and chemical structure with oak aging,” said Bumpers. “You can do small-scale experiments, you can experiment with a small barrel and get an idea of extraction, the wood compounds and sugars that will come out, but there’s no substitute for time. That’s really the tough part.”
• Epiphany Vodka, Silver Medal McClintock description: Our vodka is distilled from Northern Italian organic wheat and double distilled and triple filtered for a smooth taste and clean finish. Tasting Notes: Smooth and clean with a hint of sweet earthy taste. Velvety and soft mouthfeel from the delicate wheat compounds; remarkably smooth finish with distinct butter note.
• Popi’s Finest Rum, Double Gold Medal Each bottle of Popi’s is hand-labeled with a batch number, signed by Dan McNeill and includes the length of time in barrels (600 days since the more specific one year, seven months and 20 days wouldn’t fit on the barrel). “It was really exciting to get some national recognition our first year for our Risky Rum, with a gold medal in San Francisco last year,” said Meg McNeill. “And to put that clear spirit in the barrel with fingers crossed—it was really exciting to see how that aged rum came out.”
• Bootjack Rye Whiskey, Silver Medal
McClintock description: Made from pure organic grains, the Bootjack Rye Whiskey has been milled, distilled and crafted to create the finest quality rye whiskey. The Bootjack embodies a revived historic high-rye mash bill to recreate the smoother and full bodied flavor that embodied Maryland Whiskey. Tasting Notes: Rich and deep fruit with light black pepper notes in the nosing. Starts off bold and full-bodied on the palate with a classic rye spice, but finishes with a mellow sweetness reminiscent of a bourbon. Beautiful soft mouthfeel for clean sipping or classic rye cocktails. • Forager Gin, Silver Medal
McClintock description: Forager Gin is a vapor infused new-world style gin using botanicals inspired by native herbs found in the Appalachian wilderness. Tasting Notes: Aromatic juniper nosing; strong citrus and floral notes on the palate, with balanced undertones of juniper throughout the taste. Complex finish with earthy and citrus notes to complement the sweeter floral initial taste. • Maryland-Heritage White Whiskey, Bronze McClintock description: Maryland Heritage White Whiskey comes from a historically derived rye heavy mash bill from pre-Prohibition Western Maryland distilleries. Aged in house UNCAPPEDNEWS.COM
for 24 hours in an oak barrel, this whiskey has the flavor of a strong rye without the woody charcoal elements of barrel aging. Tasting Notes: Strong rye nosing with peppery spicy taste on the palate. Finishes smooth with a mellowness from the wheat and a hint of sweetness from the corn. MISCELLANEOUS DISTILLERY, MOUNT AIRY • Gregarious Gin, Double Gold Medal While gin can technically be made from many agricultural products, it’s typically made from a grain base. MISCellaneous uses molasses as the base of the spirit, which often makes it more accessible to people who don’t normally care for gin. It also earned them an innovation award from the American Craft Spirits Association. Co-owner Meg McNeill said the gin uses the minimum amount of juniper required to call the spirit gin, and leans on more citrusy botanicals.
Meg McNeil, co-founder of MISCellaneous Distillery, and Keirstyn Frey show off their award-winning spirits at the Frederick Craft Spirits Festival in April.
“We get such a fun response when people try our gin, from big gin fans and also from slight gin fans and gin-ophobes,” she said. “It has a different profile both because of the mash bill and the botanicals we use. It’s really easy to drink, with a sweet base.” MISCellaneous description: Refreshing and friendly, this American-style gin is made from a molasses base, then vapor infused with six botanicals. The resulting taste is sweet, citrusy, and slightly woody. And to make it even more fun loving, we have partnered with the artwork of Ed Becker @ Be Dot Gallery to really make this gin stand out from the rest.
MISCellaneous description: This handsome devil is named after Dan’s great grandfather Henry “Popi” McAvoy. Barrel aging has given this rum incredible characteristics, including notes of salted caramel and dark chocolate, with a rounded mouthfeel and a slightly herbal finish. • Risky Rum, Silver Medal
MISCellaneous description: Taking a risk deserves a reward. That’s the origin of Risky Rum. Made with dark brown sugar and blackstrap molasses, this white rum has a distinctive taste that’s delicious to sip and incredible to mix. Hints of butterscotch and toffee on the nose and a smooth, buttery mouthfeel will keep you coming back for more.” • Gertrude’s 100% Rye Whisky, Bronze Medal
MISCellaneous description: This beauty is named after Dan’s grandmother, the rye-drinking, cigar-smoking, matriarch on his mother’s side. Aged in charred, white-American-oak barrels (the whisky, not the grandmother), this high rye whisky has a rounded mouthfeel with hints of strawberry and black pepper, and a maple jam finish. U N C A P P E D | SUMMER 2019
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Extra Earth-friendly Biodynamic farming is a growing force in the world of wine • BY KATE MASTERS •
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ld Westminster Winery is known for thinking outside the box. After all, there aren’t many places in Maryland where you can find a pét-nat piquette. So, when it came to starting a new vineyard, biodynamic farming just made sense. “It was a chance for us to start with a blank slate,” said Drew Baker, the winery’s founder and farmer, “and for us to focus on a core project of creating living, breathing wines.” The feat is accomplished through biodynamic farming itself, a method and philosophy that Baker described as “creating a farm that can find equilibrium on its own.” In more concrete terms, it’s like organic farming taken three steps further, combining a chemical-free ethos with a mindset that regards the land as a living organism. Biodynamics eschews chemical pesticides and herbicides, and it also endorses methodologies like crop diversity and rotation. It’s rare among Maryland wineries, but interest is growing. In 2018, the Maryland Wine Speaker Series hosted a two-day workshop on biodynamic vineyards led by the director of operations for Bonterra Organic Vineyards in California.
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monoculture, which we know is not sustainable.”
“It was a chance for us...to focus on a core project of creating living, breathing wines.” - Drew Baker, Old Westminster Winery founder and farmer
THERE’S ALSO A GROWING belief among some winemakers that biodynamic farming can create a better product. For Baker, it’s a harder argument to prove, but he is counting on Burnt Hill to yield a rich diversity of rare grapes. Old Westminster is using the farm to cultivate several native American varieties, once dismissed as inferior to Old World species and largely phased out of wine production. But the grapes are naturally hardier and more disease-resistant, evolved to flourish in the soils where they originated. “They sort of summarize the biodynamics ethos, which calls for less intervention,” Baker said. “We’re not doing what the early settlers did, which is trying FACEBOOK.COM/UNCAPPD
GRAHAM CULLEN
BAKER IS PURSUING biodynamic farming at Burnt Hill, a 117-acre property near Clarksburg that his family purchased two years
ago. In spring, he planted the first 20,000 grape vines on the farm, a process months in the making. “We spent the first two years planting cover crops to boost the health of our soil,” Baker said. Year one was a mix of oats and wheat, while year two saw daikon radishes—a tillage plant with roots that can grow up to 24 inches. Baker planted them closely to break up compaction and aerate soils on the farm. When the crops were ready, he let them decompose in the field instead of harvesting them. “It’s providing a plethora of nutrition to the microbiology of the soil,” Baker added. “The idea is that through biodiversity, we can create healthier soils, which create more vibrant crops, which create a healthier environment. It’s the opposite of modern
SHARK, CON’T. FROM 14 for it, but, nah.” I see where Kevin is coming from, as he and many others who have been brewing beer for a long time aren’t huge fans of these trends. They have spent decades making sure beer is clean and crystal clear. With the resurgence of lagers, saisons and other classic styles, some even think we are seeing the beginnings of craft beer returning to its roots. “I think craft beer has always been about innovation and pushing the limits of what beer can be. I’m not sure you can ask an industry built on innovation to just turn that creativity off. If we always listened to the purists, we probably wouldn’t have great styles like double IPAs or session IPAs,” said Ben Savage, chief marketing officer at Flying Dog Brewery in Frederick, Maryland. “That being said, I do think the pendulum might start swinging back to more traditional styles soon, as that in itself is starting to seem ‘innovative’ in the craft beer space. At some
point people might just want beer that tastes like beer.” Hugh Sisson, founder of Heavy Seas Beer, in Baltimore, who has been in the industry for decades, falls somewhere between Blodger and Savage. “…If the inference is that craft beer is being overwhelmed with off-the-wall products that are way outside the
normal range of traditional beer flavors, I think there is some potential truth there,” he said. “There are certainly brewers who feel they have to do something outrageous to get any attention at all in such a crowded market. But I also feel that most brewers still have an emphasis on making consistent, quality beers that
taste like beers—and then build their businesses around those products. They may not get all the hype, but I believe those companies will be around for the long haul, and craft beer will maintain its relevance.” So, has craft beer jumped that shark? Where I do draw the line is when all a beer has going for it is marketing. But why automatically dismiss a beer because people think it’s gimmicky? If the beer is good, who cares, just enjoy it. To me, craft beer has always been about having fun. For example, when I brought home a four-pack of Unicorn Farts and showed it to my daughters, they thought it was hilarious and laughed for about five minutes straight. The next day, my 3-year-old asked me where the tooting unicorn was. Not only did I like the beer, but it also provided me with an enjoyable moment with my kids. Plus, when a beer garners that much attention from the general public, it can convert people who may have never tried craft beer before into enthusiasts.
Baker said is often traced back to Northern Virginia. The species almost went extinct during Prohibition, but was cultivated in other countries—including Romania—before it made its way back to the mid-Atlantic.
“I think we’re creating wines that are delicious, but also wines that have a character and have a story,” Baker said. The vineyard will also host Old World species including Gamay and Cabernet Franc, but the native American
varietals are the real focus. “There are all these complex vines that came about through cross-pollination rather than human intervention,” Baker said. “It really resembles the American melting pot.”
Our author prepares to sample a marshmallow-infused Saturday Morning with breakfast on a, you know, Saturday morning.
TOP: CHRIS SANDS; BOTTOM: GRAHAM CULLEN
to impose their will on native species that just didn’t behave the same as those old European varietals.” CATAWBA, A LOCAL VARIETY, is one of the vines Baker is most excited to discuss. Its origins are often traced back to Clarksburg itself, where an innkeeper reportedly grew the vines and disseminated cuttings up and down the Eastern colonies. According to Baker, its natural resistance to things like powdery mildew makes it an ideal varietal to farm organically. It’s also known to produce a pretty good wine. After acres of the vines were destroyed in Maryland during Prohibition, Catawba migrated to Missouri, where it’s often bottled as a light, fruity rosé. Even more niche is a grape varietal known as Noah, which UNCAPPEDNEWS.COM
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last call with
trevor baratko
Chris Makes Trevor Drink Adventures with The Sandman
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While I was waiting for Chris and after my eighth Orange Vanilla Coke, I snagged Ocelot’s Mi Corazon American IPA. This 6.7% alcohol by volume is “hopped generously” with Citra and Galaxy hops, according to the brewmasters. It was vibrant, juicy and refreshing, reminding me of one of my favorite local beers: the Lucketts Calling over at Vanish Farmwoods Brewery a few miles north of Leesburg, Virginia. Sitting outside on picnic tables, with the quaint sound of trucks and traffic and planes in the background, Sandman and I began our tasting in earnest. First up was Vandals American IPA. This was a hard pass for me, although
Sandbar said it was “a really solid hazy IPA.” Frankly, it tasted like stale pistachios, which I’ve been trying to cut back on. Featuring Mosaic and Galaxy hops, Vandals struck me as overly bitter. Sandcastle said it wasn’t bitter, but the tasting sheet explicitly described it as a “nice bitter finish,” so I think it’s clear who’s the expert here. At least Vandals was 6.9% alcohol by volume, which made hanging with Sandals Resorts more bearable. Yahtzee! The Watch Me Disappear, a 7.2% alcohol by volume American IPA, was pepped up with Citra and Simcoe hops. All I have in my notes is “yep”—so obviously it was a winner. I’m nothing if not thorough. Sandy Koufax agreed it was
Trevor Baratko is the editor-inchief of the Loudoun Times-Mirror in Virginia. Send him Coca-Cola Orange Vanilla.
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CHRIS SANDS
’Twas a big day. Unbeknownst to Bossman Chris Sands, I was pretty damn stoked to try the afternoon’s marquee beverage. I’d been hearing a lot about this particular offering—not only locally, but across these United States. Granted, the hype seemed to be a bit much, but appreciating strong creative as I do, the marketing roped me in from the get-go. My friends, this sipper did not disappoint; I haven’t put down a Coca-Cola Orange Vanilla since. Also, Bossman and I went to Ocelot Brewing Company in Loudoun County, Virginia, that day. That was cool, too. Launched in 2015, Ocelot’s industrial neighborhood near Dulles Airport is, well … [if you don’t have anything nice to say …] What I can say is this: A. Ocelot makes the most of its cozy concrete surroundings. The place is whimsically wonderful in a Jerry Garcia-on-mescaline kind of way. Phish Heads will note the beers are named after some of the jam band’s finest numbers. B. Ocelot’s logo, glassware and overall branding are dope. (See above re: creative.) C. I liked some of the beers!
a touch tastier than the first. Make it two in a row. Break My Balls American IPA, a toned-down, 6.5% brew with Mosaic Lupulin powder, was also a delight. Balanced and estery, Break My Balls offered subtle straw and fruity aromas. The clean finish should give Vandals something to strive for. The 6.7% Elsewhere American IPA, brewed with Galaxy and Comet hops, was Sandbagger’s least favorite, which he found peculiar because he “typically loves anything Galaxy.” Alas, we indulged in the well-received Grand Royale IPA, an 8% imperial double collaboration with Baltimore’s Union Craft Brewing. Hopped with Mosaic, Citra and “experimental varietal” U1/108, Grand Royale has a “resiny dank” finish, Sandakan said in a positive light. Sandra Day O’Connor noted he was impressed that each beer we tasted was unique. “There are so many breweries that when you go to one, they have a ton of hazy IPAs, and they’re all indistinguishable from each other,” he said. “These are very distinctive.” I’ll count this as one of the three times a year Sandlot is right.
Introducing...The Inaugural
Frederick County Craft Beverage Festival THE ONLY BEVERAGE FESTIVAL EXCLUSIVELY FEATURING ALL CRAFT BEVERAGES FROM FREDERICK COUNTY PRODUCERS!
Beer!! Wine!! Distilled Spirits!! The FREDERICK COUNTY CRAFT BEVERAGE FESTIVAL will be held on AUGUST 10, 2019 at the LIBERTYTOWN VOLUNTEER FIRE DEPARTMENT ACTIVITIES GROUNDS from 12PM TO 6PM. This will be a one of a kind event that will feature beer, wine and distilled spirits produced in Frederick County. The festival will be a fun family event with games and activities for kids and adults. A mechanical bull, TIP jars, “Big 6” wheel, and other unique gaming features to provide a true “carnival” atmosphere not found at other festivals. A “Kids Corner” with an inflatable “bounce house”, corn crib, and children’s games will insure a fun time for the entire family.
TICKETS ON SALE THE WEEK OF JUNE 24 AT:
www.mdtix.com/frederickcountycraftbeveragefestival.html OR www.FrederickCountyCraftBeverageFestival.org
For your convenience, there will be a shuttle bus between the Activities Grounds and the extended parking area.
LIBERTYTOWN VOLUNTEER FIRE DEPARTMENT ACTIVITIES GROUNDS 12027 SOUTH STREET, LIBERTYTOWN, MD 21762 | WWW.LVFD17.ORG
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Featuring Ole’ 97 between 12PM – 3PM and The Knight Brothers between 3PM – 6PM.
GREAT FOOD PROVIDED BY THE LIBERTYTOWN VOLUNTEER FIRE DEPARTMENT! Pit Beef, Pit Turkey, Fried Ham, Hush Puppies, Crab Soup and much more!
Special Thanks! TO OUR SPONSORS...
RIPPEON EQUIPMENT CO. (FREDERICK, GAITHERSBURG, WESTMINSTER) L&S FUELS | MT. PLEASANT CROWN FREDERICK COUNTY OFFICE OF ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT Dynamic Automotive (Libertytown, New Market, Urbana, Frederick) Frey Agricultural Products | Darling & Darling Bulk Water Services | Roche Automotive
TICKET PRICES AND DETAILS: $30* PER PERSON ADVANCED TICKET SALES | $65* FAMILY TICKET (2 adults & all family members under 16) $35* PER PERSON AT THE GATE ON DAY OF THE EVENT ($5 Designated Driver Pass) *Price includes: ticket fees, $10 worth of beverage credit, and a free inaugural festival glass. All proceeds benefit the Libertytown Volunteer Fire Department. UNCAPPEDNEWS.COM
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