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What has been the deining sewing pattern for you? Is it the irst one you made from scratch, or perhaps the slightly battered envelope you ind yourself reaching for again and again? This issue we sat down for a cuppa with four creative women – including Sewing Bee winner Juliet Uzor – to ind out the standout designs that led them to become the stitchers they are today; we warn you though, your ‘to-buy’ list is about to double! (p46). This issue comes with two Simplicity patterns: 8557 has ive jersey basics that ofer endless outit combinations; plus Simplicity 8787 is a wiggle dress that’ll give curves some extra va va voom. We’ve also topped up our dressmaking ofering with four bonus designs, from a shirt-to-dress revamp (p34) to Amanda Walker’s cover star tea dress (p24) – who knows, they could just make it into your pattern hall of fame! As well as taking a pew with our pattern-loving sewers, we also had the pleasure of chatting to Downton Abbey costume designer Susannah Buxton, just in time for the muchanticipated ilm, out on 13th September. Plus, you’ll ind your usual dose of projects, including a bumper crop of back-toschool basics, including a monster lunch box (p62) and a unicorn book bag (p74). Finally, we couldn’t leave without mentioning our enclosed The Good Sewing Machine Guide 2019 that’s packed to the brim with more than 30 leading models! If you’re looking to treat yourself, this should hopefully make your decision a breeze. Happy sewing!
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SEW MAGAZINE 03
PATCHWORK SATCHEL ON PAGE 54
Inside your September issue... 41
Š 2019 FOCUS FEATURES LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
32
In Every Issue
66
03 Welcome Come and say hello!
06 Who, what, wear What's trending in the sewing world
15 Sew social You've been sharing your makes
72 Sew wishlist The team's round-up for September
58
76 Stitch & learn Our top workshop picks
85 The books we're loving The latest must-reads
86 Your sewing guide! The jargon explained!
89 Next month Our October issue's out on 22nd August
Take a Break
Gifts
41 Downton Abbey
45 Floral watch
We go behind the scenes with costume designer Susannah Buxton
46 My life in patterns Sewing superstars tell their life story through patterns
SEW MAGAZINE 04
75
49 Sewing Week Meet the shops taking part in our event!
79 My stitch confessions Read your hilarious blunders
90 Style story: the kaftan Delve into this traditional garment’s rich history
Accessorise with your wrist
54 Satchel bag Your new go-to over-theshoulder bag
58 Table runner
This fruity project will brighten any table!
60 Sashiko apron Master this Japanese technique
62 Monster lunchbox Your little ones will rule the school with this make!
64 Sewing machine mat Great to store all of your stitchy bits
66 Latte hoop The perfect gift for a coffee lover
Home 68 Half circle quilt Stuart shows you how to sew a stunning quilt
69 Stuart Hillard Our columnist visits the Mary Quant exhibition
74 Hair scrunchies A sweet accessory for your little one
54
30
Packed Pages of Fashion, Garments & More!
2
PATTERNS INSIDE!
Use your bonus gifts to sew eight must-have outfits
28 Sewing SOS
10
Get to grips with coverstitch and overlocker machines
30 Debbie Shore's show and tell
24
Learn how to turn up trousers
32 Indie pattern news Don't miss out on these independent brand picks
34 Beth dress Upcycle your old shirts into a dress
37 Lauren Guthrie Our columnist is on the hunt for maternity patterns
38 Iris skirt
62
Wow in this leopardprint number
Dressmaking 10 Capsule collection Five trousers and tops you can’t be without
13 Party dresses Master knit fabrics with Simplicity 8787
48 Fashion forecast This feature will give you a dose of marvellous material!
56 Denim jacket Susie Johns teaches you how to embroider succulents
20 Versatile denim Jean material like you’ve never seen it before!
74 Pencil case Back to school sewing has never been easier!
75 Book bag Make a satchel in just five simple steps
75 Sugarlump the Unicorn
23 Sewing with Tilly Top tips for pressing
24 Nola dress Become a pro at adding flouncy sleeves
26 Miley top Your new wardrobe essential
Our mascot was lovingly named by a Sew reader
Freebies & Offers 70 Subscriptions 2 FREE* Christmas accessory patterns, plus a festive fabric bundle! Feeling lucky? Enter to win £1,270+ of fantastic prizes!
ON THE COVER...
82 20% OFF* Abakhan Grab a discount on all dressmaking fabric!
83 25% OFF* Crafter’s Companion Bag yourself some stitching goodies!
84 Reader offer 50% OFF* Sew Style Vintage bookazine!
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SEW MAGAZINE 05
82 WIN! Giveaways
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14 to win on p82!
Take the Plunge
Tiny Tots In this read, you’ll discover 33 sweet and simple cross-stitch patterns to embroider for a little one. The book Hello Baby ofers easy step-by-step instructions for projects which are suitable for stretchy jersey fabric, plus it also comes with embroidery kits which will enable you to create a cute rabbit, elephant and set of bibs. For stockists, visit rico-design.de/en
Make the most of the last summer days with the igurelattering Cottesloe swimsuit! This pattern can be made as a classic one-piece or as a mix and match bikini set, and also comes with an easy construction guide. It’s available to make in two sets of sizes, 0 to 20 or 14 to 30, as part of Megan Nielsen’s brand-new Curve range. £13.10, megannielsen.com
WHO WHAT The sewing world is a hub of
SEW MAGAZINE 06
Ahead of the Curve Oliver and S has now expanded the size range of its Liesl + Co. patterns from 16 to 30! The brand has kickstarted its new collection with two styles, including this Gelato blouse and dress which features a gentle A-line it, with two sleeve options: go for short or choose three-quarter length with a bell sleeve rufle for added lair. £11.79, oliverands.com
Rough and TUMBLE Treat your little princess to the Hanami dress! This sweet design from Straightgrain Patterns is perfect for girls between the ages of one to 12, and features three styles, including a gathered or box-pleat skirt with or without pockets. You’ll also have the choice of lutter and tulip sleeves, or a sleeveless design, as well as several collar options. £18, clothkits.co.uk
Click and Collect Create and Craft has teamed up with Asda to make it super simple for you to receive a number of products from its range! The brand has collaborated with the well-known superstore to provide an ‘Asda to You’ click and collect service across 600 shops – and what’s more, it doesn’t cost one extra penny! createandcraft.com
If you buy one pattern...
Pastel Perfection Rico Design has recently launched its next fabric range, Crafted Nature! The stunning collection includes ten cotton, six jersey and six muslin materials which can be found in an array of pastel hues. Each one is printed with visible brush strokes and watercolour designs that are ideal for adding a delicate touch to your next dressmaking and homeware projects. rico-design.de/en
Soak up the last of the sunshine with the New Look 6608 pattern. The design ofers a loose-itting jacket with front and sleeve tie options, plus a sleeveless pull-on top and a pair of stylish wide-leg trousers. To top it of, this pattern also comes in a range of sizes from 8 to 20 and the bottoms feature a comfortable, elasticated waistband. £7.50, sewdirect.com
Top, £26; culottes, £22, mandco.com
WEAR &
excitement – keep up! Fun Florals Boost your fabric stash with this gorgeous Blooms & Bobbins material! The collection features a range of beautiful prints, including loral, sewing machine and stitching motifs in blue, cream, pink and gold tones – they’d be great for making a loaty dress or statement skirt. rileyblakedesigns.com
dates for your diary From 1st to 3rd November, head along to Craft Festival Cardif. This is a popular three-day event which will give you the chance to browse over 130 of the inest award-winning makers from all over the UK. craftfestival.co.uk/cardif Between the 10th and 11th August, visit the amazing Makers Markets in New Lanark. This brand-new event will showcase the very best handmade products Scotland has to ofer. newlanark.org
Dressmaker of the Year Winners
Read our interviews with the well-deserved winners of Dressmaker of the Year 2019.
Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams
We take you on a virtual tour of the V&A’s Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition.
How to Sew with Stretch Fabrics
Our experts provide you with their top tips on working with this tricky material.
SEW MAGAZINE 07
A Thread: Contemporary Art of Peru, is an exhibition which takes place between now and 8th September, and showcases the textiles of 17 designers who work with traditional Peruvian weaving and embroidery techniques. ftmlondon.org
See what’s on sewmag.co.uk/blog
THIS MONTH’S PATTERNS
8
Closet
With the SIMPLICITY 8787 and 8557 patterns to hand, you’ll be able to pack your wardrobe with all the basics staples and party dresses you need
Classics
What’s your Size?
ALL ABOUT OVERLOCKING
With the Simplicity 8557 pattern, you’ll have the option to create a multitude of garments, including a dress, tunic, vest top, duster coat and a pair of trousers, each of which require you to sew with knit fabrics. If you choose a heavy sweater material, then remember to decrease the pressure on the presser foot when stitching, and for lighter knits, you’ll need to increase the pressure.
Knit fabrics are stretchy, which means that they need seams that are supple enough to provide some ‘give’, otherwise they will snap. One of the best ways to do this is to invest in an overlocker machine which will provide the seams with a neat and professional inish. Check out our enclosed The Good Sewing Machine Guide 2019 to purchase the perfect overlocker for you.
SEW MAGAZINE 09
Remember to use your body measurements to ind your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit sewdirect.com to ind out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right it for your shape.
KNIT KNOW-HOW
5
Easy-sew Garments
WITH SIMPLICITY 8557
Fill your closet with all of the essential garments you’ll ever need, including a pair of straight-leg trousers, long vest top, two tunics, and a throw-on duster coat.
BE PREPARED With designs B, C, D and E, it’s possible that the shoulder seams may stretch out or start to sag over time if you haven’t stabilised them. So to prevent this and ensure you create a long-lasting garment, you should use twill tape or elastic along the seam line on the front of the shoulder edges before sewing the seams.
ALL IN THE FINISH
SIZES* 4-26
On most shop-bought items which use a knit fabric, you’ll see that there are two parallel lines of stitching along the double folded hem. When sewing *US SIZES your own garment, this efect can be achieved using a coverstitch machine, but if you don’t have one, then you can recreate this using a twin needle on your machine. This will ensure that your garments have a neat, professional inish.
TOP TOOLS
SEW MAGAZINE 10
Working with knit fabrics also means you need to use a certain type of needle to create a garment which is inished to perfection. Aside from using a twin needle for doublestitched hems, a ball point or stretch one is best for the bulk of the garment as these will slip in between the knit ibres rather than tearing them apart.
“This pattern will help you master stretch fabric”
Art Gallery Fabrics Striped Stretch Jersey in Caviar, £23.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Art Gallery Fabrics Jersey – Pretty Ditsy Dream Knit, £22.50 per metre, dragonlyfabrics.co.uk
Art Gallery Fabrics Jersey Knit – Paparounes Spices, £22.50 per metre, dragonlyfabrics.co.uk
your Style
SELECTOR Why we made
STYLE A STRAIGHT-LEG STYLE You can pair these simple, three-quarter length trousers with any top and you’ll look efortlessly chic.
STYLE B STAPLE TUNIC
Stylec This design was created by our dressmaker to show of the high-low hem and loose-it shape. Make it in striped fabric for nautical vibes!
This easy-to-sew top falls just above the knee and ofers three-quarter length sleeves and a classic round neck.
STYLE C SIMPLE TOP
STYLE D WARDROBE ESSENTIAL This basic vest top replicates the round neck of the other designs, but is great for keeping you cool with its loose-it, sleeveless style.
STYLE E EASY THROW-ON
SEW MAGAZINE 11
The lightweight duster coat has long, loose sleeves and falls above the knee – it’s great for throwing on over your outit on those chilly evenings.
“this comfy style looks flattering in both prints and plains” Jeans, £24.99, tkmaxx.com; shoes, £19.50, marksandspencer.com
Option C mimics design B with its three-quarter length sleeves and round neckline, however, this design also sports a high-low hem.
3
Party Dresses
WITH SIMPLICITY 8787
Get the evening started with Simplicity 8787! This pattern ofers three beautiful bodycon dresses, with long and capped sleeves, or the option to go sleeveless. Make your version in a soft jersey or go all-out glam with a luxurious velvet fabric.
SEW MAGAZINE 12
MASTER STRETCH FABRIC
FIGURE FLATTERING DESIGN your Style
“Choose a stretch velvet or jersey scuba fabric to create this fabulous evening ensemble”
SELECTOR STYLE A SLEEK STYLE Be the talk of the party in this long-sleeved dress which will hug your curves in all the right places.
STYLE B RUCHED FROCK
STYLE C GO SLEEVELESS This sleeveless garment is designed to suit most body shapes, and has minimal pattern pieces.
Why we made
StyleA
SEW MAGAZINE 13
Design A ofers long sleeves, a knee length and gorgeous ruching details along the side, making it the perfect party outit.
Bag from Jasper Conran, debenhams.com; shoes, £19.50, marksandspencer.com
The ruching on one side of this dress provides you with a igure-lattering shape, that’ll keep you looking stylish all night long.
Next month’s
2patterns BONUS
master the art of ruching
Pick your NEEDLE With knit fabrics like jersey, you should always use a ball point needle as this has a rounded tip which will slide in between the ibres of the material rather than cutting through them. However, if you’re sewing with velvet, opt for a 75/11 stretch needle for best results. For Stretch Sewing Machine Needles size 75/11, visit prym.com for stockists
learn to sew with luxurious velvet the pattern pieces the same way; usually, this means that the pile runs down the length of the garment from top to bottom. However, regardless of which way you cut the fabric, just make sure that all of the pieces are kept consistent.
MARK THE Spot
Use newlook 6438 to create an entire outfit
MIX & MATCH
Create everyday outits, including trousers, tops and a cover-up, plus fabulous dresses.
When making pattern marks on a fabric like velvet, leave the dressmaking chalk to one side in favour of needle and thread to sew tailor’s tacks. This will allow you to accurately mark all of the design details, from darts to notches. Alternatively, you can also use a disappearing ink marker, but you must make sure this is done on the wrong side of the fabric.
Choose your THREAD If you opt for a jersey fabric for the designs on this pattern, steer clear of cotton thread as it doesn’t allow for any stretch and will cause the threads to break. Instead, choose a polyester type as this will provide the garment with some ‘give’. We used Seralon Polyester in Marine Blue and Royal Blue. For stockists, visit amann-mettler.com
SEW MAGAZINE 14
Nap TIME If you use velvet with these designs, then before you do any cutting, you should igure out which way the nap goes. You can do this simply by running your hand along the right side of the fabric; you’ll notice that the pile will be smooth when you move in the direction of the nap and rough when going against it.
LOOK Sharp With any fabric that has a directional nap, you should make sure that you cut all of
Lady McElroy Midnight Rosette Stretch Scuba Jersey Knit, £17.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
simplicity 8734 offers gl amorous fits-all dresses
Crushed Spandex Velvet, £7 per metre, abakhan.co.uk
SIZES 10-18 (US) Floral Print Stretch Jersey, £5.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
SIZES 10-22 (US)
October issue on sale 22nd August 2019
l a i c o S You’ve had a busy summer stitching up a storm, and here are some of our favourite makes!
I sewed this pineapple skirt last bank holiday.
I stitched this frock for a family wedding. This is the second time I’ve used this pattern because I just love the shape it provides! Plus, the band along the bottom can be made in so many diferent colours.
Claire Dolby
Gail Anderson
What a sweet make, Claire!
Even the sunset can’t steal the spotlight away from your stunning dress! I spotted a lovely top in a high street store, but it was quite expensive so I made my own in a striped linen material!
Eileen Hollins I did a little sewing and baking with my daughter and granddaughter last bank holiday, and this reversible apron is a mixture of both crafts!
Sandra Branton Aschettino
Sounds like a recipe for success, Sandra!
This is the bonus pattern which came with Sew’s June issue – I love it!
Sally Dodd Find our unicorn on
CHOSEN BY YOU
p75
Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our issue’s mascot.
Clair Foskett, Sew reader
Say Hello to Sugarlump!
Help us to choose a name for next month’s mascot at facebook.com/sewhq
Clair has won a set of Aeroil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk
leaf Continued over
SEW MAGAZINE 15
“I chose the name from a book my four-year-old daughter loves; it’s called Sugarlump and the Unicorn, and it’s about a magic unicorn who makes a horse’s wishes come true!”
Sponsored by Minerva Crafts
Social
www.minervacrafts.com
Write in andWIN!
These are the lion tag toys from your March issue.
Stephanie Marsh
This make is roarsome! I’ve just inished a pair of little one’s trousers.
Jackie Chalmers
This is my gorgeous granddaughter Madison in the Dorothy dress by Bobbins & Buttons, which I made in a beautiful Riley Blake Designs mermaid fabric – doesn’t she look chic in her sunglasses?
Joanne Ford
We don’t know which we love more – her shades or your fabric choice!
I made this duck cushion.
I’m currently making a memory cushion out of three jackets; they belonged to my best friend’s mum who passed away two years ago.
Clair Foskett
Karen Honey
That’s quackers, Clair!
What a lovely idea, Karen.
SEW MAGAZINE 16
OUR INTEREST FAVES
Danielle’s embroidered hoops incorporate neat beading and vibrant splashes of contrasting colours! danielleclough.com
Artist Natalie Sedgewick draws inspiration from tattoos to create her eye-catching hoops. @tattered_thread
Stitcher Olga Prinku has re-imagined the traditional loral wreath using mesh fabric and dried lowers. prinku.com
For more inspiration, check out our stitchy Pinterest boards at @sewhq
This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com
stitch&share Share your latest stitchy triumphs with Sew!
WOW WEAR My Simplicity 8647 top.
HHHH HH
Fay Reid
H
sew
AMAZING ART
STAR
I entered this textile piece into the Ashby Arts Festival competition.
letter
H
Rebekah Louise
TO INFINITY AND BEYOND When the latest issue of Sew dropped through my letterbox with the bonus Simplicity 8384 pattern, it was exactly what I was looking for to use-up my space-print fabric. I opted for the tunic version and made it sleeveless, I also added snaps on the placket, omitted the buttons and used silver-edged ribbon for the waist tie. This is perfect for my next astronomy talk!
Sheri Lynn Karl
MONKEYING AROUND Look at the pencil case I made.
Laura Hargreaves
I’m expecting a baby boy in July, so I made a teepee for his nursery – story time is going to be magical!
Samantha Amy Lovett FRILL FACTOR I made a matching top and bloomer set for my princess.
Trishana Shokoya-Wessey
AHOY, MATEY I created a pencil case. This fish quilt was great fun to make!
Sharon Tilley
Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 17
Caroline Baxter
SPOOL Y OURSELF YOURSELF C Create reate yyour our o o own wn sewing wor workshop kshop with C Crane rane Garden Garden Buildings. Buildings. H Handcrafted andcrafted timber gar garden rden d buildings, designed to or derr, for yyour o our speciic needs. order,
SHOW SITES ACROSS THE COUNTR RY COUNTRY
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Studios Studios | Workshops Wor o kshops | Sheds S heds | S Summerhouses ummerhouses | Garages G arages
01760 444229 cranegardenbuildings.co.uk cranegar denbuildings.co.uk
WOW! 4 WITH YOUR
Bonus Looks
EXCLUSIVE PATTERNS
Stand out from the crowd in a gorgeous tea dress or stunning skirt, amp up your upcycling skills with a shirt dress, and get casual style with a double gauze tee. Beth dress, p34
Nola dress, p24
Miley top, p26
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD
All of the patterns you need to get started are available to download at sewmag.co.uk. Simply register or log-in to begin! 8 78cm 59cm 85cm
Bust: Waist: Hip: Back neck 39cm to waist:
10 83cm 64cm 88cm
12 88cm 69cm 93cm
14 93cm 74cm 98cm
16 98cm 79cm 103cm
18 103cm 84cm 108cm
20 108cm 89cm 113cm
40cm
41cm
42cm
43cm
44cm
45cm
OUR PATTERN PROMISE All of our patterns are available in sizes 8-20* and already include seam allowances. Remember to make a toile to ensure the best it for you *Excludes covermounted gifts
SEW MAGAZINE 19
YOUR SIZING CHART
sewmag.co.uk/templates
Iris skirt, p38
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VERSATILE DENIM IT’S TIME TO TACKLE THIS HEAVYWEIGHT
Denim jacket and wide leg jeans, jdwilliams.co.uk
Clover Water Soluble Pencils, £5.62, sewessential.co.uk
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Beau li thede ght, £14 per nimco mpan metre, y.co.u k
Whoever said denim has to be plain blue, hasn’t looked at The Denim Company’s vast selection! Only a decade ago, there wasn’t much choice when it came to this type of fabric, but nowadays it’s adorned with motifs and comes in a variety of washes. Before you begin sewing it, pick up a specialised denim needle, pre-wash the material and, of course, be mindful of the grainline.
er
Hardwood presser and clapper, £25, sewessential.co.uk
hedenimcomp tre, t a n y .c o .uk
SEW MAGAZINE 20
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Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years. We source beauiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.
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LARGEST FABRIC ONLINE RETAILER PAPER PATTERNS DISCOUNTED ALL YEAR ROUND! offer applies on our website only
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Sewing with
tilly
“These six tips for pressing will do wonders for garments” Whether you’re a sewing newbie or a crafting whizz, you’ll know how great pressing is for elevating your handmade creations to the next level. An ironing session can shape and set fabric, smooth out creases, reinforce seam lines, and here are my top five tips for achieving just that!
1
2
3
4
5
6
Press the seams lat and fold the seam allowance open or to the side to help set the stitches into the fabric and reduce thread impressions. Next, press the seam open or to the side on the wrong side, gently pulling the material away from the seam line, then iron it on the right side.
The plate of an iron can sometimes leave an unwanted sheen or scorch mark on fabric, but if you place a pressing cloth – a layer of muslin, lightweight paper or material – over the garment, it should protect it from excess steam and heat, meaning that you can turn the temperature up a notch.
For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com
In some cases, you don’t need to touch the iron to the fabric to latten it. Simply inger-press the seam open or to the side, then hover the iron over it and puf out some steam. While it’s hot, run your ingers along the seam line to reinforce the shape.
Your chosen pattern may ask you to press the seams after sewing them, but you don’t have to do this straight away! Save time and batch press a few at once. Remember to press a seam before you sew another one across it, otherwise you won’t be able to iron the whole length in one direction.
For small areas such as collars, pocket laps or sleeve cufs, position them on the end of the ironing board and dangle the rest of the material of it. That way, the iron will only press the desired section and it won’t bunch up the rest of the garment.
SEW MAGAZINE 23
Former Sewing Bee contestant Tilly Walnes shares her expert advice.
Pressing tools are excellent for manipulating garments into the shape you want. Try ironing darts and other curved areas over a tailor’s ham, and inserting a sleeve board or seam roll into narrow tubes, such as sleeves and trouser legs, as these won’t it over the ironing board.
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
IN SIZES 8-20
Give us a twirl in the
Get started Essentials
Nola Dress
Fabric, 2m (150cm) Lining, 1m Concealed zip, 56cm
Sizes 8-20
Cutting guide Front bodice: cut one on the fold in fabric and lining Back bodice: cut one pair in fabric and lining Sleeve: cut one pair Sleeve lounce: cut two in fabric and lining Front skirt: cut one on the fold Back skirt: cut one pair 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
We can’t ofer you a cuppa but we can deliver your new go-to frock – Amanda Walker’s tea dress! This ultra-feminine make is guaranteed to stretch your skills as it requires darts, louncy sleeves and a concealed zip. Don’t worry if these techniques aren’t up to scratch just yet, as our detailed instructions will ensure that you’re a pro by the end of the project. the underarm seams, then press open. Turn one lounce to the right and slide inside the corresponding lining piece, right sides facing. Match the underarm seams, then pin and sew around the base of the lounce with a 5mm seam allowance. Fold the lining inside the fabric lounce, tease out the seams and press lat. Repeat for the other lounce.
Layplan
FLOUNCE
SLEEVE
SELVEDGE
BACK BODICE
4
Neaten the underarm seam edges, then match, stitch and press open. Sew the lounces to the base of the sleeves, matching the underarm seams. Neaten all of the seam allowances, then press and turn them to the right side. Sew a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and inishing at the back.
FOLD
FRONT BODICE
BACK SKIRT
FRONT SKIRT
5
LINING
FLOUNCE
SEW MAGAZINE 24
BACK BODICE
1
FRONT BODICE
Download the template at sewmag.co.uk. Stitch darts on the front and back bodices from the base to the points marked on the pattern. Press them towards the centre front and back, and the side darts towards the waistline. Repeat for the lining. Position the front and back bodice right sides
pressing is key to flattering darts together, then match, pin and stitch the shoulder seams. Press open the seam allowance. Repeat for the lining.
2
Lay the bodice right side up and place the lining on top, right side down. Match the necklines, then pin and sew around them. Clip the seam allowances around the curve,
then under-stitch the neckline, stopping 4cm from each centre back edge. Match and pin the side seams, then stitch from the base of the bodice to the underarm sections and press the seam open. Repeat on the lining.
3
Divide the sleeve lounces into one fabric and one lining. Pin and stitch all of
Pull up the gathering threads, then place the sleeve into the armhole. Match the side seams to the underarm one of the sleeves, pair the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam, then adjust the gathers to it the armhole. Pin, stitch and neaten the seam allowances.
6
Neaten the side edges of the front and back skirt. Place the front skirt over the back pieces. Match the side seams, stitch and press open. Position and pin the skirt to the bodice, pairing the side seams and centre fronts – you may need to clip the waistline curve to enable this. Sew, then neaten the seam
DRESSMAKING allowance and the edges of the centre back bodice on the skirt.
7
Stitch the centre back seams up to the zip notch. Sew the zip into the back opening using a regular or concealed zipper foot. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the back opening. Open the seam allowance and, with right sides facing, place the opened zip face down. Match the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance, then pin. Prepare the zip depending on your chosen zipper foot, and sew.
sizes 8-20
8
Leave 3cm of the zip base unstitched, then backstitch and sew the other side of the zip in place. Thread the zip pull through to the right side at the top of the centre back seam, then close it. Neaten the base of the skirt and complete a 1cm hem. To inish, hand-stitch the top of the zip to the lining.
fabric shopper
Totally Teal
SEW MAGAZINE 25
This woven viscose is made for loaty sleeves as it has a silky feel with a matte inish to provide the perfect lounce! And what better design to use for a tea dress than a loral one? £9.80 per metre, dragonlyfabrics.co.uk
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
IN SIZES 8-20
Achieve everyday chic with the
Miley Top Meet your new go-to garment for casual style! This double gauze boxy top created by Amanda Walker will teach you how to make your own bias binding for the neckband, attach interfacing and create buttonholes. The project is ideal for wearing over a pair of trousers for a relaxed day out with friends or can be tucked into a skirt for evening glam.
Get started Essentials Fabric, 1.5m (150cm) Fusible interfacing Mother of Pearl buttons
4
Pin and edgestitch in place, sandwiching the raw edge of the neckline inside the bias binding; this process can also be completed by hand slip-stitching. Position the front and back top pieces together, right side facing, then match up and sew the side seams. Neaten the seam allowances and press the seams towards the back.
Sizes 8-20
Cutting guide Front: cut one pair and two strips of interfacing Back: cut one on the fold Armhole bands: cut two Neck binding: cut a strip, 4.5cm x 76cm 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, except for the neck edge where 0.5cm is used.
5
interfacing, then do the same 1cm in on either side of the bias strip, or use a bias binding folder to complete the process.
Sew the two short ends of the armhole bands together to make a tube. Press the seams open, then fold the tube in half, sandwiching the raw edges inside. Position the tubes around the armholes of the top, matching the seam of the tube to the top of the side seams. Pin the band around the armhole and sew in place. Neaten the seam allowances and press towards the inside of the top.
3
6
FRONT
these soft pleats blend effortlessly into the double gauze fabric
1 FOLD
SELVEDGE
BACK
S A BI P RI ST
SEW MAGAZINE 26
ARMHOLE BAND
Layplan
Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk. Make two lines of gathering stitch across the shoulders of the two front pieces. Pull the stitches up and evenly distribute the gathers to fit the back shoulders. Pin and sew the front pieces to the back. Neaten the seam allowances and press towards the back.
2
Fuse the interfacing to the two front edges and neaten. Fold and press along the edge of the
Open one side of the bias strip and position it around the neckline. Pin in place, then sew along the fold line that’s pressed into the bias strip. Fold in the end of the binding on the two centre front edges, then repeat with the strip over on the wrong side of the neckline and position the remaining folded edge over the stitching line.
Fold and press in 1cm around the base of the top, then do the same again. Edgestitch the hem in place. Make five vertical buttonholes in the positions marked on the front pattern piece, then sew the buttons to the corresponding places on the left-hand side of the top.
DRESSMAKING
Core Skill FINISHING OFF SEAMS If you’re new to using an overlocker, it can seem a little daunting at irst as any excess seam allowance will be trimmed of. However, once you’ve mastered the machine it will provide you with a neat inish. You can use one with our Miley top, but we’d recommend testing it out on a double-layered scrap piece of fabric irst. Alternatively, if you don’t own an overlocker, you can inish of the seams using zig zag stitch.
fabric shopper
Pine Green This gauze fabric is made up of two ine layers that are tacked together with tiny stitches at regular intervals to give it a doublelayered efect – it’s deinitely a must-have for your stash! £9.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com
SEW MAGAZINE 27
Necklace, £19.50, marksandspencer.com; trousers, £30, Wallis at debenhams.com
sizes 8-20
sewing
SOS Read on if you need help getting to grips with coverstitch machines and overlockers
Q
I want to buy a coverstitch machine, but I’m nervous because I’ve never owned one before! Do you have any tips for getting to grips with one? Wendy Bottel
Melissa says A coverstitch machine is a great investment, especially if you sew with stretch fabrics, as it makes hemming garments like leggings, t-shirts or active wear a breeze. The good news is, they’re a lot easier to thread than an overlocker, but you’ll need to learn a few techniques in order to start and inish the stitching since there’s no reverse option. If there’s a coverstitch machine dealer local to you, I’d recommend trying one there so you can conidently use it once you get home. Another idea is to check if any nearby sewing studios run drop-in sessions – many places now have coverstitch machines, and this is an excellent way to learn before you buy! However, if trying someone else’s isn’t an option, then I’d suggest reading the book Master the Coverstitch Machine by Johanna Lundström, as this will give you an idea of how it works, what you can do with it and how to ix any issues that may arise.
Sweatshirt, £47.50, whitestuff.com
Q
There are so many stitches to use on a coverstitch machine – triple, wide, narrow and chain. What projects do I use each one for? Delia Plant
Mark says
SEW MAGAZINE 28
Blouson dress, £99, purecollection.com
Active top in Berry, £9.99, tkmaxx.com
A chain stitch ofers a neat, single line and is quite stretchy, so it’s perfect for sewing with knit fabrics and areas that don’t naturally have much movement, such as side seams. A triple stitch on the other hand, gives three lines of sewing with a little bit of stretch and is stronger than a chain stitch, meaning that it can create a sturdy seam, like on a zip. And last but not least, narrow and wide stitches provide a double line of sewing, again with some stretch. As the names suggest, the variations also ofer diferent widths between stitch lines; whether you opt for a narrow or wide version is up to you, but I think that wide stitch is good for a lapped seam and narrow stitch is great for a felled one. These stitches are also perfect for hems, necklines Thea dress, £9, and sleeves.
sewoverit.co.uk
here to
help
MELISSA FEHR
MARK CREASEY
LISA COMFORT
In 2013, Melissa created her own patterns for activewear, and she hasn’t stopped moving or sewing since! The stitcher also wrote her debut book Sew your own Activewear. shop.fehrtrade.com
Mark is the owner of Girl Charlee, which has just celebrated its fourth birthday! The shop sells a whole host of stretch fabrics which are great for everything from activewear to kid’s clothing. girlcharlee.co.uk
Sew Over It is a London-based store founded by crafter Lisa Comfort. It ofers patterns, fabric, sewing classes and just general stitchy fun! Check it out for yourself here: sewoverit.co.uk
Q
What’s the diference between an overlocker and a coverstitch machine? And what projects can I use them both for?
Sarah Age
Lisa says Overlockers inish the raw edges of knit and woven garments as an alternative to zig zag stitch, and they typically have three or four threads. As fabric enters the machine, the raw edges are neatly trimmed by a blade before the overlocker’s needles and loopers encase them in stitching to prevent the material from fraying. Also, as overlocking stretches, four-thread machines can sew the seams of knit garments without the need for a sewing machine! In comparison, coverstitch machines sew the hems of knit garments like t-shirts. These models create two lines of topstitching on the right side of a project, whilst the raw edge on the wrong side is inished with loops which resemble overlocking. I’d deinitely use an overlocker and coverstitch machine to sew professional-looking tees and jersey dresses, such as Sew Over It’s Thea one!
top4 OVERLOCKERS
Now that you’ve swotted up on overlocker features along with which projects to use it for, the diferent stitches and varying amounts of thread, are you ready to enjoy a spot of window shopping?
MO-114D Overlocker, visit jukiuk.com for stockists
baby lock Enspire, £899, babylock.co.uk
3034DWT Overlocker, £279, brothersewing. co.uk
tip!
Jaguar Novum Supa Lock, £329, gursewing machines.com
Got a stitchy question for us? Email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk or message us at facebook.com/sewhq and we’ll do our best to answer it!
SEW MAGAZINE 29
Thea dress, £9, sewoverit.co.uk
Head over to your local overlocker or coverstitch machine dealership to try before you buy. Plus, have a flick through our bonus good sewing Machine Guide for more
Debbie Shore’s
show & tell
SEW MAGAZINE 30
As dressmakers, one of our most useful skills is being able to adapt our wardrobe to perfectly suit our height and shape. When faced with a top that no longer fits, or trousers that are just that little bit too long, we only need to set aside an hour of stitching time to save this garment from a dreary future on the landfill. Here I show you two simple methods you can use to turn up the hem on your trouser legs; I find the neatest way is to sew by hand, but if you prefer, you can use the blind hem stitch on your machine, too.
TURNING UP TROUSERS
To sew by hand, unpick the existing hem and turn inside out. Press the crease line, turn up and press again. Measure 3cm from the crease and cut away the excess.
1
Fold the edge by 6mm and press, then re-fold the hem to the first crease. Stitch through the top of the fold, using the same colour thread as your trousers.
2
3
4
5
6
To machine sew, unpick and press as shown in step 1. Measure 5cm from the crease and trim the fabric. Fold the raw edge over by 2cm and press.
Turn the hem to the inside, leaving 1cm of the fold exposed. Secure the blind hem foot on your machine; the stitch can also be used with a standard foot, but practise first.
Without taking the needle through the fabric, pick up threads from the trouser leg above the fold, then go back down the fold. Continue sewing, 6mm apart, all the way around.
Sew the straight part of the blind hem stitch over the edge of the leg; the needle will dip to the left to catch the fold. From the right side, you’ll see a subtle row of small stitches.
For more great tips from Debbie, visit halfyardsewingclub.com
t i K g n i w e S d n Ha
Even if you have the most up-to-date machine, there are times when your crafty ingers will produce better results. Most sewing projects usually require a small amount of hand-stitching in some way or another, so be certain that you’re prepared with our selection of the most handy equipment.
TAKE YOURSELF BACK TO BASICS
1 2 3 4
8 5
6
1 Rose hip design sewing pin wheel, £1.95, rexlondon.com 2 Hemline sewing assortment needles compact, £1.60, groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk 3 Stork embroidery scissors 9cm, £7.20, themakery.co.uk 4 Hemline premium retractable tape measure, £2.79, minervacrafts.com 5 Beautiful birds pin cushion, £7, dunelm.com 6 Rose gold Eifel Tower scissors, £8, jillyjilly.co.uk 7 Clover sewing and quilting needle threader, £7.99, minervacrafts.com 8 Clover protect and grip thimble, £7.99, clover@ stockistenquiries.co.uk 9 Gütermann Sew-All thread French cottage, £11.90 for pack of seven, sunnysidefabricsuk.com 10 Hemline tailor’s chalk, £1.55 for four, sewessential.co.uk
7
10 9 SEW MAGAZINE 31
indie
Cooper Bag by Colette Patterns
-XXL
DOUBLES AS A BIKE PANNIER!
The best from independent designers
Siz e
X S- X L Photographer: Art o Markkanen
XS
PATTERN PICKS
sX
Size s
Diiculty: Cooper gives you three diferent accessories from one basic body: a messenger bag, backpack and satchel. All versions are lined and feature eight large pockets, magnetic closures, plus hardware details. The messenger bag also comes with an adjustable cross-body strap, while the backpack has two shoulder straps and a hang loop. What’s not to love? From £11, colettepatterns.com
UNISEX STYLE!
Albion Coat
SEW MAGAZINE 32
by Colette Patterns Diiculty: Keep the cold at bay with the Albion pattern, a unisex design that includes a classic dufle coat and a jacket. Featuring toggle closures, tailored two-piece sleeves, yoke details and a stylish three-piece hood, option one inishes at the mid-thigh, while version two is a hip-length unlined jacket with a combination of felled and bound seams – it’s ideal for advanced beginners. From £11, colettepatterns.com
Lahja Dresing Gown by Named Clothing Diiculty: Meet the new loungewear essential: the Lahja dressing gown. This unisex pattern ofers two variations: the men’s version is calf length and has long sleeves; while both have a wide collar, belt and patch pockets. Choose a mediumweight non-stretch fabric, such as linen, terry or wafle cloth, or go luxe with a silk satin instead. From £8.90, namedclothing.com
Negroni Shirt by Colette Patterns Diiculty:
XX L -X
Sizes X
XXL S-
Size s XS
-XXL
Sizes X S
Negroni is a classic, button-up shirt, with a modern cut. The instructions will guide you through every step of creating a well-crafted casual shirt: including felled seams, a lined back yoke, and plackets on the long-sleeve version. Subtle details include a convertible collar and mid-century style loop detail. The only tricky part? Deciding which version to start sewing irst! From £11, colettepatterns.com
CHOoSE FROM LoNG OR SHORT SLEEVES
Wiliam Vest by Laela Jeyne Patterns
by I AM Patterns Diiculty: Straight from the I AM A MAN capsule collection, the Milor t-shirt is a staple for any modern guy’s wardrobe – it’s simple to sew and even easier to wear. Designed for jersey fabrics, this downloadable pattern suits both prints and plains, so why not make several to suit every occasion? From £13, iampatterns.fr
SEW MAGAZINE 33
Diiculty: Sometime an ‘inbetween’ garment is just what’s needed to beat the chills, and the William Vest is the ideal pattern to ill that wardrobe void. This design comes with two views: a simple zip design or a vest with shoulder accents, pockets and a snap-of hood. Plus, if you’re still getting to grips with grading, the instructions come with detailed information on how to blend sizes and adjust the length to suit. From £9, laelajeynepatterns.com
Milor Top
$ diagram DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
Refashion like a pro with the
Beth Dress Get started Essentials Shirts, two in the same size 1cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
Transform your old shirt into this simple dress! The project comes from Violette Room’s book Stylish Remakes, which is jam-packed with ways to refashion your clothes into brand-new garments. So, unearth those old tops to ind two complementary colour and pattern combos, then follow our easy step-by-step guide to incorporate clever upcycling techniques.
1
Download the diagram at sewmag.co.uk. Place the two shirts back to back and cut the sleeves; the longer pieces will become the shoulder straps so you’ll need to cut of the cufs. Try to err on the longer side for the shoulder straps.
2
Take one of the cut-of sleeves to form a pocket. Close each end using French seams, then repeat with the other sleeve.
SEW MAGAZINE 34
after
3 4
Take one side of each shirt, then button them together. If the buttons and buttonholes do not align, adjust the positions. Using the cut-of sleeve pieces, create the shoulder straps. Adjust the length of the straps based on your preference, then attach the shoulder straps to the bodice to inish of the garment.
find the other diagram steps online at sewmag.co.uk
DRESSMAKING
top tip It’s best to select a large men’s size, approximately 93cm for the length and 112cm for the bust, so that the length is adequate.
Core Skill FRENCH SEAMS
get the book Grab a copy of Stylish Remakes by Violette Room for easy step-by-steps on how to give a new look to your old clothes. Tuttle Publishing, £7.99, amazon.co.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 35
This method is a way of creating a double seam that can hide the excess seam allowance by neatly sewing it in on itself. You start by sewing the seams wrong sides together, then trim and press them. The second seam is then sewn right sides together to enclose the raw edge. When stitching this type of seam, pressing at each stage is an essential step to ensure that you end up with a neat inish.
latest crafting news
makebox.co
FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @sewhq Try out the ‘Swipe to Sew’ feature on our stories, plus access behind-thescenes clips from stitchy events!
SEW MAGAZINE 36
takeovers with crafting stars
see our newest pattern downloads
LAUREN GUTHRIE “This month I’ve been on the hunt for looser styles and more versatile patterns”
M
y sewing projects have been taking a diferent path than usual, while my body changes shape and my pregnancy progresses. I’ve been trying to look for patterns that aren’t necessarily designed as maternity wear, but their style will still accommodate a bump, so that I can get more wear out of them longer term. I made some speciic maternity designs and adapted garments during my last pregnancy, but I found that I just didn’t wear them after my daughter was born; I was so desperate to don my ‘normal’ clothes again. That’s why this time I’ve been on the hunt for looser styles and more versatile patterns. The True Bias Roscoe Blouse is a great option as it has a gathered neckline with raglan sleeves, so it’s really full and loose itting. It looks great in lightweight fabrics like cotton voile and material with more drape, such as viscose or rayon. I also like the centre front slit detail and the neckties. Another pattern that has caught my eye is the Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs. They are a modern and more feminine take on traditional dungarees, with wide-cut legs and options for a scooped or straightshaped front bib. The ties that hold them up are really long and it means you can choose to tie them in diferent ways around the multiple belt loops that are at the back. There is a more itted over-the-hips version that fastens with an invisible zip, as well as a looser style that just slips on and of and sits more gathered at the back. That’s the version I chose and I knew that, for a few months at least, my growing bump would be able to gradually take up the extra room from the gathers at the back. After the pregnancy, I will still have a pair of dungarees that don’t feel like maternity wear. Plus, they’ve got lovely big pockets too, which is always a bonus! To turn the long ties round the right way, I used the Prym Love Turning Set. It comes in a pack with two sizes depending on how broad or narrow the strap is and it looks a bit like a chopstick that sits inside a tube! It securely grips the fabric and works better when you have a longer strap to turn. For very ine or shorter straps, I prefer to use a loop turner, which can be more iddly to use but does mean you can get a much narrower inish. I used some of our Tencel twill fabric in a classic navy colour to make the Burnside Bibs, as I knew it would go with lots of diferent tops and shoes! It’s a really beautiful soft and silky opaque fabric, which is great for a garment like this. Tencel is really growing in
Words of Wisdom “When I change the colour of thread in my overlocker I’m so used to tying a knot and pulling the threads through, but this month I’ve been making more of an efort to thread it from scratch. Practise makes perfect!” popularity now and is also slowly becoming easier for me to source as a fabric shop owner. It’s manufactured in a similar way to rayon and viscose in that it is made from wood pulp, but the diference is that it is produced by an environmentally responsible process using sustainably sourced raw wood material. All waste products are collected and reused so it’s a closed loop
Sew House Seven’s Burnside Bibs offer a feminine take on traditional dungarees process. The ibres are certiied as compostable and biodegradable, too. I’m really pleased that it’s becoming easier for home dressmakers to learn about the fabrics that they are using and that there are more options when it comes to buying natural ibres. Sometimes it can mean that projects overall end up a bit more expensive, but I really believe in the ‘less is more’ saying and I’d always personally choose a higher quality, natural fabric and rest assured that it will stand the test of time in my handmade wardrobe.
Lauren x
To hear more from Lauren, visit guthrie-ghani.co.uk or follow her on Instagram @guthrieghani
SEW MAGAZINE 37
When turning out straps, I swear by the Prym Love Turning Set, £7, prym.com
from £18, guthrie-ghani.co.uk
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk/templates
IN SIZES 8-20
Animal print is the new neutral, give it a try with the
Iris Skirt
Get started Essentials
From sultry snakeskin to low-key leopard prints, the world of fashion has been embracing its animal instinct on the runway – and for us dressmakers, it’s the perfect reason to practise our pattern matching, too! Here our dressmaker Amanda Walker has merged soft rules with a practical waist tie to create a look that’s bound to turn heads, while boosting your skill set.
Fabric, 2.5m (150cm) Fusible interfacing Hook and bar
Sizes 8-20
Cutting guide Front: cut one pair Back: cut one on the fold Waistband: cut one in fabric and one in fusible interfacing Tie: cut two Front rule: cut one pair, then cut away the top section of the rule on the left-hand side Back rule: cut one on the fold 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, except for the lower edge of the frills where 5mm is used.
2
SKIRT BACK
SKIRT FRONT
SEW MAGAZINE 38
TIE
FOLD
SELVEDGE
BACK RUFFLE
WAISTBAND
1
Download and cut out the pattern from sewmag. co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Stitch the darts into the back and front skirt, and press towards the centre back and front of each piece. Neaten the back and front side seams. Match the front and back skirt together, then pin, stitch and press the seams allowances open.
Lay the front rufles together, right sides facing, then match the side seams and stitch in place. Neaten the seam edges together and press towards the back rufle. Make a roll hem across the top of each front rufle and around the base rufle. Position onto the skirt base, matching the side seams and the left side to the notch marked on the pattern.
Layplan
FRONT RUFFLE
the skirt is secured with a hook and clasp, then finished with the waist tie
3
Position the right-hand side of the rufle, 1.5cm down from the waist edge. Stitch in place and neaten the seam edges together, continuing to neaten up to the waistline on the lefthand side. Press the seam allowance into the skirt and the area above the left rufle, then stitch this section to create a small hem.
4
Fuse interfacing to the waistband using an iron. Stitch one of the ties to the right-hand end of the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthways, right sides inside, and sew across the
DRESSMAKING
Core Skill ROLLED HEMS Popular for delicate, lightweight fabrics as it produces a discrete inish, this hem type can be created using a rolled hem foot on your sewing machine. Remember to disengage your thread cutter to leave a long thread tail for an easy seam start. It’s also a good idea to test it out on scrap fabric irst as using this foot can take some practise.
fabric shopper
Leopard Print We made this design in a woven crepe, but for a twist on a classic print, why not try it in a leopard and lower design instead? It’s available in a stretch jersey, ideal for giving the Iris skirt a structured feel, £14.50, stofstil.co.uk
left-hand end. Trim the bulk from the corner, then turn the waistband to the right side and press flat. Match the lefthand end of the waistband to the left side of the skirt, and the right-hand end with the tie attached to the right-hand side. Pin and stitch the waistband to the skirt.
5
Fold the attached tie in half lengthways, right sides facing. Match the edges together and sew from the pointed end to the place where it joins the waistband. Trim the bulk from the corners and turn to the right side. Tease out the seam and press flat. Fold in the seam allowance along the inside edge of the waistband, sandwiching the waist seam inside. Stitch in the ditch or hand-sew the folded edge in place.
6
sizes 8-20 SEW MAGAZINE 39
Make up the remaining tie as before, turning it to the right side and pressing flat. Neaten the open edge, then position it on the left-hand side of the waistband in line with the side seam, and stitch in place. Attach a hook to the left-hand end of the waistband and the bar to the corresponding place on the inside of the waistband.
DISCOVER INDIA & its beautiful textiles
Beauty Unwound Textile Tour Discover India’s hidden gems & beautiful textile treasures on this wonderful 17-day journey. Explore Kutch villages for the region’s best embroidery, handblock printing, intricate tie-dying & other demonstrations.Visit magnificent ancient monuments & chaotic bazaars including the Taj Mahal, Jaipur & Delhi. See exquisite embroideries being worked by village women near Lucknow & so much more. This tour will inspire and amaze you! Next departure - 5th November 2019. Also available ‘Muslin Trail’ and ‘Textiles & Traditions of India’. Tours are led by Mumbai textile expert, Sunita Sinha, who happily shares insider knowledge of intricate textile processes, best places to shop, India’s intriguing customs & it’s delicious cuisine. Maximum group size: 9.
info@touchofspirittours.com.au
www.touchofspirittours.com.au
tea break YOU ARE CORDIALLY INVITED BEHIND THE SEAMS AT
Downton Abbey Words by Sophie Demetriades
SEW MAGAZINE 41
© 2019 FOCUS FEATURES LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
After four years of waiting and endless rumours later, we can conirm that it’s oicial – Downton Abbey is set to return in cinemas on 13th September 2019! So join us, as we give you an insight into the upcoming ilm, and go behind the scenes with the series costume designer Susannah Buxton to look back at some of the most iconic outits from the show.
Violet Crawley is set to return, along with Lady Mary in this gorgeous twenties-style outfit Lady Edith is back with Bertie and Marigold charged with creating authentic garments for the show: “The whole process was quite complex, as you The inal episode of the series, which aired on can imagine! It started with reading the script and Christmas Day in 2015, saw happy endings for the breaking down the numbers and details of each majority of the main characters: Edith married Bertie, costume that was required. Research is vital at this Mary revealed she was pregnant with her second point; even if I have worked in that period of history child while Anna gave birth to her irst, plus Henry before, I still visit costume collections in museums, and Tom went into business together. And of course, look at paintings in galleries, read books and of course, the last word went to the quick-witted Violet use the internet, too. I collated the information to Crawley, played by the ever-brilliant Maggie Smith, decide on a colour palette for the principal costumes, who rang in the New Year with a inal nugget of then sampled fabric and spoke to makers, either in wisdom: “It makes me smile, the way every year we costume houses or with people who work from drink to the future, whatever it may bring.” To our home. I then designed mood boards for each main delight, it’s been conirmed that most of our favourite characters are set to return for the ilm, and thanks to the trailer, we know that the tenants of Downton will be hosting a right royal visit!
A ROYAL WELCOME
Unlike the ilm which is set in the late 1920s, the series spanned a multitude of signiicant historical events which not only reshaped the world, but also the wardrobes of the Downton inhabitants, both upstairs and down. The much-loved series began with the sinking of the Titanic in 1912, followed by the First World War, Spanish lu, and the Sufragette movement, then inally ended on the cusp of 1927, where the closets of Britain were inluenced by the Roaring Twenties outits that made their way from across the pond. In these 15 years, the fashion of the era adapted dramatically in response to these events, a change that was captured by costume designer for series one and two Susannah Buxton, who is here to give you VIP access into the dressmaking world of Downton.
“The whole process was quite complex, as you can imagine! Research was absolutely vital”
BACKSTAGE PASS From rules and fancy frills to revolutionary ensembles, Emmy award-winning costume designer Susannah had a mammoth task on her hands when
Head Butler Mr Carson is back for the big screen
© 2019 FOCUS FEATURES LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
SEW MAGAZINE 42
TIME FOR CHANGE
character and discussed the ideas with the director. “Next, it was time for the ittings with the cast to begin; it can take up to four or ive attempts with each actor to make a bespoke costume, but only two or three if hiring and altering existing ones. These ittings include everything from the hats and jewellery to the footwear and garments for all members of the cast. “The three sisters in Downton were a gift for any designer – they were such a pleasure to dress! The silhouette for 1912 is long straight skirts, high waists and wide hats, all of which perfectly suited Michelle (Mary), Laura (Edith) and Jessica (Sybil). They also approached their wardrobes with such enthusiasm and interest, and that wonderful experience was all mine.”
tea break
“The most iconic piece I made is the harem dress that Lady Sybil wore – it’s one of the costumes I am most proud of” Sneak peek: Mary and Henry dance the night away in the film
Although most aspects of the costume making process went smoothly, it wasn’t always plain sailing, as Susannah explains: “One of the main challenges was making the female members of the cast comfortable for long working hours in corsets. Although much less constricting than an Edwardian one, they were of course used to comfortable modern clothes. I had several corsets made to an original design so I could keep the shape, but used modern materials where possible to give maximum comfort. I soon realised, after many complaints, that all of the principal women would need their own, not an existing one rented from a costume house. Bespoke corsets are expensive and I had to make the case for a bigger budget to cover them, which was no easy task during the irst series when nobody realised what a huge success the drama would turn out to be! Penelope Wilton, who plays Isobel Crawley, still asks for hers, which a costume house keep with her name on ready for when she’s working on a period drama.”
reveals all: “They’re from an extensive and wonderful range held by the world-renowned costume houses we have in the UK. They run a form of recycling that, of course, has always gone on with clothes through generations – good fabric is never wasted! Principal costumes that are made from scratch will be kept on embargo until at least a year after the show has been screened, then as long as they are not wanted for an exhibition, they will go back into stock to be used for future projects.” Feeling inspired to start making your own period costumes? Susannah tells you where to begin: “Before you do anything else, I’d recommend you look through these top reads: Patterns of Fashion: English Women’s Dresses and 17th Century Men’s Dress Patterns.”
VOTING FOR REVOLUTION The Downton Abbey series showcased signiicant changes to fashion, which was spurred on by the onset of the First World War and the rise of the Sufragette movement that shook up the social order. This meant a shift away from heavily corseted outits to more relaxed its, shorter lengths and high waists, which is a change Susannah was conscious of when designing for Downton. “In the short years leading up to the war, period drama costumes are often visually overlooked. This means that the outits usually go from being heavily boned and multilayered to nurse’s and soldier’s uniforms, without addressing the period in between when fashion was adapting rapidly – these years are said to be the start of modern fashion. During this time, boned corsets were in decline in favour of longer ones which gave women a much softer silhouette and more freedom of movement.” The rebellious Lady Sybil was at the forefront of this change, in an outit which revealed a strong sentiment for women’s rights: “The most iconic piece I made, which still travels the world in exhibitions, is the harem dress that Lady Sybil wore – it’s one of the costumes I am most proud of!” says Susannah.
SUSTAINABLE SEWING Although some drama’s have a generous budget, none of them can aford to make all of the principal costumes, let alone the entire supporting cast and crowd. So where do they come from? Susannah
In September, the talented Penelope Wilton, AKA Isobel Crawley, will be speaking at the Costume Symposium in the Liverpool Institute for the Performing Arts. The event will host amazing workshops and talks from costume specialists associated with productions such as the BBC’s Gentleman Jack and HBO’s Game of Thrones. Head over to costumesymposium.co.uk for more information.
SEW MAGAZINE 43
© 2019 FOCUS FEATURES LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Edith returns with Violet Crawley and Lord and Lady Grantham in tow
It’s Vintage, Darling! We spoke to Lauren, founder of period design blog and pattern house Wearing History, to chat about what aspects of the film she’s looking forward to and how you can make your own authentic garments!
“I have a particular fondness for tweeds and suits, so the hunting clothes in season two were among my favourites. I’ve especially wanted to make one inspired by Lady Mary’s hunting suit, but I have yet to actually make it. I also loved the shirtwaists and skirts in series two, so those ensembles and their historical counterparts have inspired many of the outits I’ve made myself – I love the simplicity of a pretty blouse paired with a sleek skirt. “The Dowager Countess is my favourite character; Maggie Smith is an incredible actress and she is in her element with the quippy, sharp lines – just one eyebrow raised at the opportune moment makes me smile! I adore how the costume designer really studied what a lady in her position and time of life would have worn and applied it to her character – it really helps to tell her story. “I love all sorts of historical time periods, but my absolute favourite is the Edwardian to WWI era and the 1930s. The aesthetics are very appealing to me as they’re still feminine, but can also be highly structured; glamorous but livable. They embody societal changes, popular culture, and some of my favourite works of literature, too.”
THE PATTERN “When I make a garment, I use a lot of original sewing patterns and manuals from the period. As with most clothes, the making time is dependent on the individual project; I’ve created a garment in as little as a day before, or as long as several months. A very complex dress that I draft a pattern for and use a lot of lace insertion or other embellishment techniques can easily take a month or more. “For ready-made sewing patterns, I love Decades of Style, Folkwear, Truly Victorian, and Laughing Moon. I also have my own pattern line called Wearing History, where you can buy ones which are either drafted by me or reproductions of authentic historical patterns.”
SEW MAGAZINE 44
THE FABRIC “I tend to use natural ibres because I enjoy the tactile experience. I use recycled elements in my clothing too; I love to go to charity shops and buy recycled curtains, tablecloths, jackets for their buttons and
1920s Hazel’s Frock, £18.19, decadesofstyle.com
1920s Sugar Coat, £19.78, decadesofstyle.com
1910 Evelyn skirt, £11.96, wearinghistory.clothing even old sheets – there’s so many good materials to use on a budget if you get creative!”
TIPS & TRICKS “There’s a saying in the historical costume world that you should ‘start from the skin out’. This means that you begin with the underwear as this will help you learn techniques as you go, and also provide a proper foundation for the external clothing. It’s important to do measurements over a corset (if applicable), as it can greatly change the proportion and posture. “There’s a very lively community for historical costume enthusiasts, particularly on Facebook and Instagram, as well as many lovely blogs. It’s fun to see what other people have made, and there’s a lot of inspiration and learning tools out there online for free. YouTube has great tutorials for historical techniques and, of course, there’s always the library, too!”
E-pattern 1920s Dolman Sleeve Blouse, £9.81, wearinghistory.clothing
Check out Lauren’s blog and patterns at wearinghistory.clothing
See Downton Abbey on the big screen from 13th September 2019!
1910s Suit, Jacket, Skirt Pattern, £22.34, wearinghistory.clothing
home & gifts
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
Get started l Assorted fabric l Felt l Two watch faces: 2cm, 2.5cm l Glue l Hammer ix snaps, 1.1cm wide l Clear press studs, 0.5cm x 2cm
Stitch timeless style with a personalised
Sizes Floral strap: 5cm x 33cm Patchwork: 2.5cm x 19.5cm
watch strap
Create the floral strap
1
Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk. Measure your wrist; if you think you need a longer length, elongate the strap templates. Cut four shapes from fabric.
2
Place two pieces right sides together and stitch using a 0.5cm seam allowance, leaving the flat end open. Clip the curves, trim the corners and turn through the gap.
You’ll never be late again with this gorgeous design created by Corinne Bradd. Here, she teaches you how to make two versions: one which uses a single ditsy loral print and another which combines various fabrics into a patchwork. It’s safe to say that with this project to hand, bending time has never been so much fun!
Sew a patchwork strap
1
4
2
Thread through and fold the shorter end under by approximately 7cm. Repeat with the other piece. Sew a press stud on both straps to fasten the shorter section underneath the longer one.
Cut felt depending on your wrist size; the strip needs to fit comfortably around your wrist with at least a 2cm overlap. Trim the ends of the strip into a gentle curve. Take a small rectangle of scrap fabric and lightly glue over the end of the felt strip, overlapping it by 0.7cm. Pleat the overlap, fold to the underside and tack down.
3
4
Start the same covering process at the other end of the felt strip and work towards the middle. Finish
covering the felt with a piece of fabric that’s hemmed on both edges and covers the remaining raw edges.
5 6
Snip fabric to 1cm x 3.5cm longer than the strap. Fold in 0.5cm all the way round and over-sew on the reverse of the strap to cover all of the fabric strip ends.
Fix a pair of snap fasteners to the ends of the strap sew on a pair of large press studs. Use a double thread to attach a watch face to the centre of the strap, threading through the fixing holes several times.
SEW MAGAZINE 45
3
Turn in, press and handsew to close the opening using co-ordinating thread. Repeat for the remaining strap pieces. Push one of them through the top bar of the watch face.
Fold under a wide strip of scrap fabric by 0.3cm on one long edge and glue in place. Place the hemmed edge over the first piece of fabric at an angle and hold it down with small over-sew stitches. Trim and fold the excess fabric over the sides of the felt strip and tack. Continue adding hemmed strips to the felt in this way until you are close to the centre.
MY LIFE IN
Paterns The crafting world’s much-loved sewers share their life through garments Words by Laura Wybrow
BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon
“Pattern-making is so empowering!” We followed Juliet Uzor’s sewing success earlier this year as she competed for the title of Britain’s best home sewer. But although The Great British Sewing Bee winner amazed us from start to inish with her contrasting print jumpsuit and red of-the-shoulder gown, Juliet has faced a few pattern disasters! “I love using Instagram for dressmaking inspiration, but this time it led to my biggest mishap…” Juliet tells Sew. “I saw a gorgeous jumpsuit trending on social media and I knew I could recreate it using two Tilly and the Buttons patterns that I already owned, but I didn’t use the right fabric – it ended up looking like a janitor’s uniform!” The Londoner told us that she dabbles in a bit of pattern drafting, too: “Pattern-making allows me to take my ideas to the next level –
it’s so empowering! My most recent success with it was a dress pattern I created for my brother’s wedding ceremonies, and I also draft outits for my daughter by replicating her readyto-wear clothes.” When we asked Juliet which patterns helped to shape her dressmaking journey, the Sewing Bee star didn’t skip a beat: “Colette Patterns’ Hawthorn dress changed my crafting experience. It included so many features like buttonholes, darts and a collar that could’ve easily put me of sewing, but I stuck it out and it gave me a real conidence boost!”
Hawthorn dress, £11.15, colettepatterns.com
SEW MAGAZINE 46
“I remember thinking ‘hey, I’m not bad at this!’” Janet Poole lit up our screens on The Great British Sewing Bee and wowed us with her box pleating and bodice boning techniques. But away from TV, it turns out Janet has sewed all kinds of adventurous patterns: “The wackiest outit I’ve made was a The Owl and the Pussycat costume for a sailing club event, because I had a pea green boat at the time. The owl outit was beautiful with handappliquéd feathers, but sadly no-one understood the reference!” It was the Vogue 1347 evening gown that Janet considers to be her breakthrough pattern: “This was deinitely the most challenging pattern I’ve ever used; it was a cowl-back number which I whipped up in matte black sequinned jersey for my daughter. I sketched a paper scale model to help me cut the cowl piece as I had to raise it considerably; this really taxed my brain as it was constructed with an internal support
BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourd illon
Head over to Juliet’s blog at sewsonatural.com section. In the end, she looked stunning in the dress, and I remember thinking ‘hey, I’m not bad at this!’” Janet chalks up her sewing casualties and triumphs to experience, which in turn has made her a more conident seamstress. With this in mind, we asked the stitcher about her most memorable DIY mishap: “I’d bought some woven checked cotton and I planned on making a top and skirt duo using diagonal cutting, but in reality, the material jutted out like the Sydney Opera House! Luckily, I’m now more aware of the properties and behaviours of diferent fabric types.”
Follow Janet on Instagram at @jannisews
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Jane Looker
“I used parsnips to print fabric for Tilly Walnes’ Stevie dress!” geometric pattern across two metres of pink linen, which Tilly transformed into her Stevie dress. I also hand-painted white linen with a blue Matisseinspired design to sew Tilly and the Buttons’ summery Seren pattern.” On top of her achievements, Zeena has had a fair share of sewing mishaps: “Gosh, I’ve had so many pattern disasters, from cutting the wrong pieces out to accidentally snipping through them. But I think you have to make mistakes to learn from them – I certainly haven’t made the same one twice.”
Instagram star Zeena Shah is a fabric printing whizz who graduated from the Chelsea School of Art with a BA in textile design – but how does the designer fare with a needle and thread? “I’ve actually just made two versions of the Eloise dress from By Hand London, and there’s a third on the cutting table!” smiles Zeena. “I love this pattern because it provides a great it and has lots of frills.” In fact, it was a By Hand London pattern that sparked Zeena’s sewing journey: “When I jumped back into dressmaking after crafting interior pieces, I struggled to ind patterns that I actually wanted to wear without making changes. But the Elisalex frock made me love dressmaking again, and the sewalongs on By Hand London’s blog made stitching it even more joyful!” When East Londoner Zeena combines her love of sewing with her talent for textile printing, the result is magical! “I used parsnips to print a white
Seren dress, £14.50, tillyandthebuttons.com
Follow Zeena on Instagram at @heartzeena
BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon
Esme credits her pattern cutting expertise to Swanky Modes: “The store consisted of four of us who created the clothes we wanted to wear but couldn’t ind in the shops; between us, there was a mix of formal training and none at all! One of the partners, Judy Dewsbury had studied menswear at the Royal College of Arts and was taught that there are right and wrong ways of doing things when it comes to pattern cutting, which of course we questioned her on. So over the years, I’ve learnt to be open to diferent ways of cutting.” Since Swanky Modes opened in 1972, Esme’s dressmaking techniques have constantly evolved as she tackles new challenges – and perhaps her most exciting venture to date is the Exploding Fashion project: “This looks at the crucial role of the pattern cutter to confront the idea that the designer is the sole creative in the design process. My colleagues and I accessed museum archives from all over the world, from London and Paris to New York and Kyoto, looking at Vionnet, Balenciaga and Comme de Garçons, to name a few, to recreate their iconic garments.”
Find out more about Exploding Fashion at explodingfashion.arts.ac.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 47
Sewing Bee judge Esme Young has led an exciting life, to say the least! She cofounded the store Swanky Modes and created iconic costumes for movies like Bridget Jones’s Diary. But to understand Esme’s life through patterns, it’s best to start at the beginning of her sewing journey: “I stitched my irst pattern aged 14; I adapted a shopbought one into a gingham A-line skirt and waistcoat – it was very badly made and I only wore it once!” laughs Esme. “In my teenage years, I’d buy outits from jumble sales or take things from my mother’s wardrobe, then alter them to match my aesthetic at the time. In fact, she hid her clothes so I couldn’t get my hands on them!”
BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon
BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon
“My mother hid her clothes so I couldn’t get my hands on them!”
Jane Looker
Elisalex, £10.50, byhandlondon.com
5 HOT BUYS
Stitch the Look
1
FANTABULOUS FABRIC
2
SEW MAGAZINE 48
Are you ready for your monthly dose of marvellous material? When it comes to stitching outfits for little ones, us home sewers opt for washable and inexpensive soft cotton, simple styles with few pattern pieces and classic prints – and what designs are more timeless than Quentin Blake’s illustrations? BFG might have stood for Big Friendly Giant in Roald Dahl’s story book, but here it means Beautiful Fabrics Galore!
“Material for kid’s wear is one of my favourite types because it usually includes striking motifs, rainbow colours and fun designs! These Roald Dahl picks incorporate all of that, plus recognisable symbols like James’s giant peach and Matilda’s books.” Caroline Boardwell Reid, Managing Director at Croft Mill
3 4 5 Sienna skort, £20; city to city tee, £16, whitestuf.com
1 Cotton sateen in Giant Peach, £8 per metre 23 Cotton sateen in Bunk Doodling, £8 per metre Cotton sateen in Hopscotch, £8 per metre Cotton sateen in Lickswishy, £8 per metre 54Cotton sateen in Fantabulous, £8 per metre All of the featured fabrics are available from croftmill.co.uk
6
30th S
EP–5th OCT
FAB FREEBIES to grab on Sewing Week
Head along to your local store between 30th September and 5th October to pick up all these deals and more!
1
2
Make & Take
Printable Poster
Looking to brighten up your sewing room walls? Pop along to your local habby store on Motivational Monday and you'll receive this colourful design, ready to frame.
As well as having the opportunity to make our felt llama mascots: Dolly, Larry and Mia, every reader can pick up a FREE template to create our no-pattern patchwork cushion!
3 Daily
4 Pattern Packs
In addition to daily patterns and projects, every shop that's signed up has been given a bonus pack featuring ten fabulous designs for you to make, inluding this easy top.
Celebrate Pattern Tuesday by heading along to your nearest shop and picking up this easy midi skirt design. It's a must for your wardrobe!
5
Magazine Offers
We've got an astounding ofer on your favourite magazine – get 10% of your irst three issues at just £17.99, plus you'll be entered into our prize draw receive a Janome sewing machine, too. Don't say we don't spoil you!
6
Goodie Bags Magazine Offers
Many of our signed-up shops will be providing exclusive goodie bags, available on a irst come irst serve basis. One shop joining in the fun is Karen Delahunty Sewing & Knitting Centre in Warwickshire, who will be ofering themed goodie bags, plus fabric discounts and a free-motion sewing class. Visit karendelahunty.co.uk for more.
Are you a shop that hasn’t signed up to Sewing Week yet? Call 01206 505495 or 01206 505932, or go to sewmag.co.uk/sewingweek for more information. SUPPORTED BY
SEW MAGAZINE 49
*Freebies available in selected stores. To avoid disappointment, please check availability prior to visiting.
Deals
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Fabrics, Haberdashery, Wool, Ribbons, Patterns; New fabrics every week Workshops • Materials • Equipment
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There is something for everyone at Buttons & Blethers:
* Workshops & classes for adults & children * Retail sale of fabric, patterns, wool & haberdashery * Craft classes * Sewing machine hire, sales & repairs * Social cafe space
www.buttonsandblethers.co.uk 01383 747884 Maggie@buttonsandblethers.co.uk Unit 15a Elgin Industrial Estate, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7SN
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Patchwork Parade “Q” House, Russell Street, Chadderton, Oldham OL9 9LF Quality cotton fabrics, threads and haberdashery, kits and patterns. Classes for all skill levels. OPEN TUESDAY-SATURDAY 10AM-4PM
T: 0161 633 5900 W: www.patchworkparade.com E: patchworkparade@gmail.com
Your award-winning craft superstore! Papercraft, Knit & Stitch, Classes & Demonstrations! Capitol Centre, Preston, Lancashire, PR5 4AW (behind Dunelm Mill) OPEN: MONDAY - SATURDAY; 10AM - 5.30PM SUNDAY; 11AM - 4PM
Tel: 01772 880852 www.hunkydorycrafts. co.uk/inspirations LEICESTERSHIRE WORKSHOPS FABRICS PATTERNS SEWING MACHINES
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Yarn, Fabrics, Brother Sewing Machines, Accessories, Courses, Online Shop. 01887 822027 info@kareliahouse.co.uk www.kareliahouse.co.uk Mon - Fri: 9am to 5pm Sat: 10am to 4pm
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“WE’RE ALL THINGS SEWING” • Brother, Husqvarna & Pfaff sewing machines and overlockers. • Sole UK stockist of “Screw B Do” screwdrivers. • Fun sewing classes for all abilities. • Fabulous fabrics for quilting, dressmaking, sewing & crafts. Finance options now available
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Get started
Introducing our latest practical essential, the
patchwork BAG
l Cotton fabric l Plain cotton lining l Lightweight wadding l Oval lip lock l D-rings, 38mm l Swivel snap hooks, 38mm l Adjustable slider, 38mm l Leather strap, 3.5cm x 140cm
1
Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk. Create the patchwork fabric by cutting several 6.5cm wide strips. Sew right sides together on the long edges, then press and topstitch onto lightweight wadding. Make two separate panels which are five strips wide by 16cm and 21cm, and two panels five strips wide by 25cm. Trim the front and back pieces from the two larger panels, then snip the flap and front pocket from the smaller ones.
Everyone needs a go-to bag in their life, and this over-the-shoulder accessory is the perfect size for storing all of the essentials you need when you’re out and about. Corinne Bradd’s unique design will not only enable you to combine your favourite fabrics in one project, but it will also improve your sewing skills as you learn to create patchwork and add a lip lock fastening.
2
Pin the front panel and pocket onto the lining, right sides together, and cut it to match. Sew around the pieces leaving a 5cm gap along the bottom edge of each. Clip the curves, turn out and press. Topstitch along the top edges of each. Fit the flip part of the clasp to the centre of the pocket, 4.5cm down from the top edge and through the outer fabric and wadding, so that the back is hidden by the lining. Fold in the raw edge of the gaps and slipstitch closed.
3
Sew the back and flap pieces right sides together, along the top straight edge. Pin onto the lining, right sides together, and cut it to fit. Sew around the edges, leaving a 5cm gap on the bottom edge. Clip the curves, turn out and press. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and slipstitch closed, then topstitch around the flap section only.
4
Cut the leftover fabric into 5cm wide strips, then sew right sides together into a continuous one, at least 85cm long. Pin onto the lining, right sides facing, then place onto wadding and stitch all three layers together on the long sides. Turn right sides out so the wadding is sandwiched in between the two fabrics. Turn in the raw edges at each end and slip-stitch closed.
SEW MAGAZINE 54
5
Tack the front pocket to the front of the bag, ensuring the top edges are parallel. Find the centre of the padded gusset strip and pin it to the centre bottom of the bag front, right sides together. Pin and sew the gusset to the bag front with a 3mm seam allowance, working from the centre outwards in both directions and leaving the excess gusset unsewn. Pin and sew the back section of the bag to the other edge of the gusset in the same way, stopping at the flap seam.
6
Close the flap over the bag and mark the position of the clasp. Cut a small slot in the flap of the bag and enlarge it bit by bit until the other half of the clasp
fits perfectly, then screw it in place. Slip a D-ring onto each excess strip of the gusset, fold it over and sew below the D-ring. Slipstitch any excess to the inside of the gusset.
7
Cut the leftover fabric into 5cm wide strips, and sew right sides together into a continuous strip, at least 140cm long. Fold in 5mm along each edge and press. Fold in the raw edge at both short ends and lightly glue the strip to the smooth side of the leather strap.
8
Slip the end of the strap through the bar in the slider, fold over 3cm and sew. Thread the other end of the strap through the loop in the snap hook and back through the buckle of the slider. Pass the end through the loop of the second snap hook, fold over by 3cm and stitch. Adjust the length of the strap with the slider and clip the strap to the D-rings at the side of the bag.
home & gifts
fabric shopper
Magical Prints For this project, we used the gorgeous Mystical Land collection from Art Gallery Fabrics, which ofers soft shades and a range of motifs, from pink unicorns to gold crescent moons. hantexonline.co.uk
Plus! You can purchase the fastenings and hardware for this project from sewhot.co.uk
DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
SEW MAGAZINE 55
$ TEMPLATE
Susie Johns’
STITCH SCHOOL Get started l Denim jacket l Cotton fabric scraps, plain and printed l Six-stranded embroidery thread: light yellow, orange, pink, red, shades of green l Erasable pen l Embroidery needle l Embroidery hoop
Superpower your stitching with the
Cacti Jacket
If you've ever wanted to know how to 'paint' with thread, then you'll need to add satin embroidery stitch to your armoury. Designed to produce solid blocks of colour, satin is a illing stitch that is made up of closely-gathered straight lines. Here it's been used to create a plethora of on-trend greenery topped of with a colourful array of appliqué pots.
Embroider the jacket
1
Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk. Transfer the cactus motifs, including the pots, to the back of the jacket, just above the waistband. Choose where you wish to position each one, depending on the size and shape of the panels that make up the jacket. Use an erasable pen so that the lines can be removed.
2
Place the area of fabric with one of the motifs into the hoop and thread the needle with three strands of green thread. Fill in the cactus with rows of satin stitch, as described above. The wider stripes on each cactus are filled with satin stitch and the narrower stripes are left unfilled. Reposition the fabric within the hoop and embroider the other cacti.
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3
Using two strands of embroidery thread in the appropriate colour, fill in the flower shapes. Use the photo of the finished jacket as a guide, or choose your own colour scheme. The dots on two of the cacti indicate where to embroider the prickles. Use straight stitch for the three radiating outwards around the outer edge and three crossing one another to make a sixpointed star shape within the body of the cacti.
4
When you have finished the embroidery, add the appliqué pots. Cut out shapes from fabric and fold under 6mm around each piece
to the wrong side. Pin the posts in place and, using matching thread, oversew the folded edges to the jacket. Once they are attached, thread the needle with two strands of coordinating thread and sew lines of running stitch horizontally or vertically, taking the needle through all thicknesses.
“These cacti are a great way to personalise a denim jacket. Make sure that the jacket is non-stretch, then wash and iron before embroidering to soften”
dressmaking
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
Satin Stitch
1
2
Bring the needle up through the fabric at A, on the outline at the bottom right-hand side of the shape to be filled, then take it back down through the fabric at B, on the opposite side.
3
Bring the needle back up at C, right next to A, then across the shape and down through the fabric on the outline, just next to B.
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Draw a simple shape to be filled, making sure it's not too wide; if the stitches are too long, they may get snagged. Stretch the fabric in a hoop to make sewing easy and to prevent any puckering.
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
Get started l 18-count even-weave fabric, 35cm x 85cm l Embroidery thread: orange, green l Embroidery hoop l Tapestry needle, size 24
Work woven bars to form a
Fruity Table Runner Delve headirst into this juicy project to brighten up any plain table! As well as mastering hemstitch, our designer Susie Johns will teach you the foundations of drawn thread work, which involves pulling out some of the warp and weft threads on even-weave fabric, then clustering the remaining ones together, ready for decorative stitch patterns. It’s ideal for adding a pop of kitsch to your kitchen.
Size 29.5cm x 82cm, including fringed edges
Download and print the cross-stitch motif at sewmag.co.uk. Mark a 14cm x 67cm rectangle in the centre of even-weave fabric, then place in an embroidery hoop. Work the cross-stitch motif at one end of the marked rectangle, then repeat at the other end.
1
Remove from the hoop, count eight threads from one edge of the design, and pull out this thread. To do this, hook the needle under and gently pull it up, then withdraw it. Repeat all around the perimeter of the central rectangle, making sure there are eight threads on each side before withdrawing the next one.
2
Working towards the edge of the fabric, pull out four more threads. Count a further 24 and pull out the next thread. Repeat all around to create a second border of a single drawn thread. Count a further eight and, using a matching sewing thread, sew narrow machine zig zag stitch along this thread line. Count a further 15 and cut along the gape between this thread and the next one.
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3
Work basic hemstitch along every line of pulled threads (see panel over the page), joining in new lengths
4
top tip where necessary by running the needle under the threads on the back of the work, to make the joins as invisible as possible. When the stitching is complete, fray the edge of the fabric; you will be able to pull out 15 lengths all round but the next thread will be held in place by the stitching, preventing any further straying.
Hemstitch is commonly worked on its own or as a basis for other drawn thread stitches. It creates a decorative edge on a drawn thread area, bunching it together ready for further embellishment. It should be worked on fabric with a loose, distinctive weave, such as evenweave linen, which makes it easy to count the threads and to withdraw them.
home & gifts
Hemstitch
2
Pass the needle behind the loose fabric strands in the withdrawn line, starting at B, directly above A. Bring the needle back out at C, the specified number to the left of B. C Insert the needle at B and B bring it out directly below A D C and level with A at D, as shown.
3
Repeat this, grouping the same number of threads each time. If you get to the end of the row and there isn’t the right number of threads, just create a group with fewer threads in it; on a larger piece of work, it shouldn’t be noticeable.
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1
Draw out the required number of fabric threads. With the right side of the fabric facing, bring the needle out at A, the specified B C number of strands below A the last strand removed.
Meet your new kitchen essential,
the sASHIKO APRON Get started l Medium-weight material, 91cm x 2m l Lightweight interfacing l Chalk pen l Sashiko thread l Sashiko needle l Tracing paper
1
This Japanese-inspired apron by Jill Clay is a recipe for success! Sashiko is a type of running stitch, which can be easily applied by weaving the needle back and forth through fabric, then pulling the thread through and smoothing out the material to produce a number of stitches in one go. The proportions used for sashiko should be 3:2 – three is the length of the stitch, and two is the space between them. So with this knowledge to hand, go forth and make your crossover pinny!
sashiko shopper
1
Download and print the pattern pieces at sewmag.co.uk, then cut out each rectangle. The front apron pieces are labelled A-I, with numbered markings 1-10. The back apron pieces are marked J-R, with numbers 11-21. Tape them together, matching the numbered markings.
2
Cut out the pattern pieces. To lengthen the apron, insert a strip of paper in between the horizontal join of the pattern and trim the excess paper at the edges. To shorten the apron, overlap the horizontal strips evenly to create the desired length.
Variegated thread in Pink and Blue, £1.90 per skein
Autumn sky panel in Grey Blue, £22.70
3
To widen the apron, insert a piece of paper in between the two vertical strips. To make the apron narrower, overlap the vertical strips. Trim the excess paper. Fold the fabric in half widthways, right sides together, then attach the pattern. Cut out the material and use a chalk pen to transfer the dots onto the fabric pockets.
4
With right sides together, stitch the centre front using a 1.2cm seam allowance, press the seam open, then pin and stitch the back pieces to the front, pivoting the needle at the dots. Snip the seam allowance on the back of the apron at the top and bottom of the pocket. Turn the pockets to the front and press.
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Sashiko needle by Pepper Cory, £9.25
5
With right sides together, pin the straps in place, then try on the apron and adjust them as desired. Stitch using a 1.2cm seam allowance, then press the seams open. Add sashiko by starting the design at least 1.2cm in from the edges, then transfer it onto the apron and complete the sashiko stitching.
6
Cut a piece of interfacing to fit over the sashiko design. Tack 6mm in from the raw edge all the way around the apron’s hem. On the wrong side, turn the tacking and press, then repeat; the raw edge should be up against the bottom fold and within the hem. Pin and machine-stitch the hem.
Sew Hot does Sashiko Traditionally, sashiko combines indigo blue cloth with white cotton thread to represent snow falling around old, Japanese farmhouses. But you can put your own spin on the technique with these bits from Sew Hot. sewhot.co.uk
home & gifts
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
Core Skill TRANSFERRING SASHIKO There are several methods to transfer designs onto fabric, but our favourite is the tracing paper one! Simply draw your design onto tracing paper, then tack it to the material. Sashiko stitch the design and remove the tacking when you’ve inished, then carefully tear away the paper.
Want to make more projects using this traditional Japanese stitch? Then pick up Sashiko by Jill Clay, published by GMC. ÂŁ14.99, thegmcgroup.com
SEW MAGAZINE 61
get the book
Store kids’ snacks in a
Monster Lunchbox
Get started l Laminated cotton, 50cm l Insulated wadding, 50cm l Chunky zip, 60cm l Stifened felt: non-adhesive, yellow; self-adhesive, black, white, yellow l Telon sewing machine foot
The irst day back at school can be a nerve-wracking afair, but with a brandnew lunchbox on hand to attract admiring glances, little ones will soon be back in the swing of their studies. Here our designer Chloe Hailwood has created a water-resistant, wipeable design that’ll keep sarnies and snacks as fresh as the moment you made them.
5mm seam allowance used throughout, except for the lining where 1cm is used.
1
Download the templates at sewmag.co.uk. From laminated cotton, cut out one handle and one main body piece. Trim another body from insulated wadding, then two outer ear pieces from yellow stifened felt and two inner ears, three eyes, three eyelids, three pupils, two teeth and two fangs from self-adhesive.
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
2
To make the handle, fold the rectangle in half lengthways, right sides facing. Stitch down the long length of the raw edges, leaving a 7cm gap in the centre. Move the seam to the centre of the rectangle and stitch across both short ends. Turn through the gap and whipstitch to close. Finger press the edges and ends.
3
Stitch each end of the handle to the top of the laminated cotton body, as indicated on the template. With right sides facing, pin together the corresponding 9cm edges, as shown on the templates. Start with sides 1 and 2, then 3 and 4, 5 and 6 and so on, up until 15 and 16; this will create the sides of the box.
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4
Position an outer ear between edges 3 and 4, then 5 and 6, with the straight edge slightly overhanging the laminated cotton straight edge, and with the ear facing inwards between the laminated cotton. Stitch all pinned edges, leaving a 1cm gap at all of the top seams to allow room for turning down and placing the zip. Turn the box inside out.
5
Starting with the bottom half of the box, turn down the top raw edge inwards by 1cm and pin the zip running left to right along the fold. Stitch in place, undo the zip and repeat along the edge of the top half. Secure the threads and neaten.
6
Stitch the insulate lining in the same way as the laminated cotton, right
sides facing, but this time using a 1cm seam allowance. Do not turn the fabric inside out, instead place directly inside the lunch box and fold the raw edge of one half down and inwards. Hand-stitch in place using whipstitch. Repeat for the top half to complete the construction, then inish by arranging the self-adhesive felt features on the front of the box.
top tip If you find that topstitching the laminated cotton is tricky, lay a strip of washi tape down first and sew on top, then gently peel away afterwards.
home & gifts
top tip Self-adhesive felt can lose its stickiness over time. To keep the features secure, run a couple of stitches through each piece.
fabric shopper
Red stripe Our dressmaker created this fun design from a red stripe laminated cotton that’s wipeclean while still being pliable enough for sewing. £4.75 per half metre, frumble.co.uk
Plus! SEW MAGAZINE 63
○ Insul Shine Insulated Wadding, £8 per metre, thefabriccabin.co.uk ○ Prym Plastic Chunky Open End Zip, £9.99, minervacrafts.com ○ Self-Adhesive Stifened Felt, from £1.15 per sheet, littlecraftybugs.co.uk
Brighten up your stitching space with a
Sewing Machine Mat If you’ve just treated yourself to a brand-new model, thanks to our enclosed 36-page machine guide, then be sure to give it the red-carpet treatment with a practical mat that doubles up as a habby organiser. Designed by Carolyn Letten, it’s perfect for storing scissors and stray clips, as well as catching those pesky threads, all without taking up any more precious desk space.
$ TEMPLATE
Get started l Fabric: one fat quarter; lining, one fat quarter; three co-ordinating prints; one cross-hatch l Cotton measure tape: narrow, wide l Wadding, one fat quarter l Iron-on interfacing
DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
1
Download the template from sewmag. co.uk. Cut wadding, 45cm x 54cm, then trim the front and back fabric to the same size. Pin the wadding to the wrong side of the front fabric and machine- or handquilt all over, using the print as a guide for the quilting lines. From three diferent fabrics, cut rectangles, 14cm x 20cm.
2
Stitch the rectangles together with a 1cm seam allowance, then press the two seams open. Fold the top long raw edge over to the wrong side by 0.5cm, then another 0.5cm, sew across and iron lat. Cut wide printed tape, 54cm. Lay the quilted piece right side up and pin the tape across the width, 12.5cm up from the bottom raw edge. Machine-stitch using cream thread across both sides of the tape and press.
3
Pin the three stitched rectangles in place, right side up and directly underneath the sewn cotton tape. Machine in place by sewing over the two joins, then stitch a vertical line down the middle section to make a 5.5cm pocket for scissors. Sew down both sides and across the bottom with a 5mm seam.
4
Cut two rectangles, 10cm x 20cm, from cross hatch and leaf print fabrics and using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch right sides together and press the seam open. Fold the top raw edge over twice as before. Trim narrow tape, 12cm, then pin and catch the raw end under the fold at the join, sew across and press.
SEW MAGAZINE 64
5
Pin the tape right side up onto the bottom left of the main piece, making sure the pocket seam matches the seam underneath. Use cream thread to sew down both sides of the tape. Cut the righthand side raw edge of the leaf pattern to the same as the seam underneath, then secure it by sewing tape over it, making sure you trap the top raw end under as you sew. Stitch across the bottom and up the left corner, using a 0.5cm seam allowance to secure.
For the thread basket, use the template provided to cut two shapes from main fabric, two from lining and two from interfacing. Iron the facing onto both lining pieces. Machine- or hand-stitch ‘threads’ onto the front by tracing onto tissue, sewing over it twice and tearing the tissue away. Pin the two outer pieces right sides together, and machine-stitch with a 0.5cm seam down both sides, then across the bottom, leaving the corners unsewn.
6
8
7
9
To shape the bottom, pull each corner apart until the side and bottom seams align, then sew across with a 0.5cm seam. Repeat for the two lining pieces. Leave the lining wrong side out and place the outer piece inside it, right side out, then pin around the top. Starting at the back just ofcentre, sew a 0.5cm seam all around, stopping 2.5cm short of where you started. Pull the lining back through the gap, then push it down inside the outer, making sure you press all the corners out.
Push the raw end of an 8cm length of tape into the middle at the back; you will ind it easier to hand-stitch in place and close the gap. Machine-stitch 2mm around the top edge, but do not catch the other end of the tape, then remove the hand stitches. Take the backing fabric and pin it right sides together over the inished front. Machine-stitch all the way around, starting halfway across the top using a 1cm seam allowance.
Finish at the top leaving a gap of 10cm. Trim the excess fabric from across the corners and turn right side out. Close the gap by hand-stitching. Press, then sew a border of 5mm all the way around. Machinestitch to quilt through all the layers across the top of the measure tape. To inish, take the raw end of the thread bin and tuck it underneath your chosen pocket and machine-stitch to secure.
home & gifts
fabric shopper
Plus! Cotton measure tape, from 39p per metre, minervacrafts.com
Our designer has used an assorted mix of prints from Makower’s Modern Retro range. Available from £3 per fat quarter, thefabricbee.co.uk
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Escape from the daily grind with a
Coffee Lovin’ HOOP Get started l Fabric, 20cm square l Felt: green, light brown, white l Hoop, 15cm l Embroidery thread: black, green, beige, white l Water-soluble fabric pen l Adhesive tape
What could be a better gift for a cofee aicionado than this ‘Love You a Latte’ embroidered hoop? The project by Meghan Thompson from her Whimsical Felt Embroidery book uses just two basic techniques: back-stitch and running stitch, making it a quick and simple decoration for you to sew. Sit back, relax and unwind with this easy-breezy project and a hot brew to hand.
1
Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk. Place the fabric in the hoop. Transfer the ‘Love You a Latte’ pattern onto the fabric with the text in the centre at the bottom of the material.
2
Trim of the excess fabric from around the hoop, leaving at least 2.5cm around it. With two strands of black embroidery thread, use back-stitch to embroider the text.
3
Transfer the plate template onto green felt. Secure the centre of the plate above the text with straight pins. Work running stitch with three strands of green thread around the perimeter of the plate.
4
Transfer the cofee cup template onto green felt, and pin it in position on top of the plate. Use running stitch with the green thread to embroider along the border of the cup and handle. Remember to embroider along the inside of the handle, too.
SEW MAGAZINE 66
5
Transfer the cofee onto light brown felt, then secure it to the top of the cup, leaving a thin border of the green cup exposed above the light brown cofee. Work running stitch with two strands of beige embroidery thread around the border of the cofee.
6
To add the latte design, transfer the template labelled four onto the
white felt, then use two straight pins to secure it to the bottom of the cofee. Use a single row of running stitches with two strands of white thread to embroider across the centre of the shape.
7
Transfer the larger heart onto white felt. Pin it inside the centre of the circular shape, with the bottom overlapping it. Embroider with two strands of white thread in running stitch.
8
Transfer the smaller heart onto white felt. Secure it to the fabric with the tip of the smaller heart just touching the larger one. Work running stitch with two strands of white thread around the border of the heart.
home & gifts
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD
Photo credit: Christopher Thompson
sewmag.co.uk/templates
top tip
get the book Whimsical Felt Embroidery by Meghan Thompson contains 30 fun designs, complete with step-by-step instructions and tear-out templates that are ideal for adding a charming touch to your home. Published by Page Street Publishing Co. 2019, amazon.co.uk.
SEW MAGAZINE 67
When choosing fabric for the background on this make, ensure that you opt for a print which isn’t too busy as this may distract from the latte design.
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
Get started For one block: l Printed fabric, 23cm square l Background fabric, 25cm square l Fusible web
Size Block: 11.5cm x 24cm Finished quilt top: 120cm x 137cm
Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk. Trace onto the back of fusible web, then cut out roughly. Alternatively, draw around a 20.5cm round plate or bowl and fuse the roughly cut circle of fusible web to the wrong side of the print fabric.
1
Allow to cool, then neatly trim out the circle. Fold the 25cm square of background fabric into quarters, then repeat with the circle. Use the creases to centre the circle on the background block and fuse in place. Appliqué the circle by stitching around it with a zig zag or blanket stitch, then press the block.
2
Use a rotary cutter to trim the block into two rectangles, 13cm x 25cm. To create the quilt, arrange 12 rows of half circle blocks in alternating ‘A’ and ‘B’ rows. ‘A’ has five blocks sewn end to end, and ‘B’ has four blocks, plus a 12.5cm x 13cm rectangle of background fabric added at either end.
3
SEW MAGAZINE 68
get the book
For advice on how to layer, quilt and bind your top, treat yourself to Stuart Hillard’s latest book Simple Shapes Stunning Quilts, published by Pavilion. Photography by Rachel Whiting. £22.95, pavilionbooks.com
Add a cosy touch to bedding with the
Half Circle Quilt TOP Our columnist Stuart Hillard has been a busy bee launching his new title Simple Shapes Stunning Quilts – and we couldn’t wait to take a peek inside! One of 100 easy quilt designs, this Half Circle block mimics the look of curved piecing, but can be made in just a fraction of the time.
top tip Picking a light-coloured background fabric will emphasise the half circle pattern.
STUART HILLARD
Photography by Rachel Whiting
At home with...
“I’m pretty certain that buying craft supplies and using them are two completely separate hobbies!”
S
PA PRINTS 2008
eptember is a bumper month in so many ways and I like to keep my diary as open as I can to take full advantage of all the great opportunities. There are plenty of craft shows to attend; the hardest part is choosing which ones to visit! The Creative Craft Show will be in Manchester, then there’s also Crafting Live in Coventry. I love seeing what’s new in the papercrafting world and I’m always on the lookout for trends, embellishments and ideas that could translate into needlecrafts. Working with diferent experts at Create and Craft TV has really opened my mind to the possibilities for ‘cross-pollination’. The Great Northern Needlecraft and Quilt Show is in Harrogate as is Yarndale in Skipton, but I will have to make a dent in the stash I bought last year before I dare to show my face again... I’m pretty certain that buying craft supplies and using them are actually two completely separate hobbies!
We Want Quant I’m also heading down to London this month to visit the Mary Quant exhibition at the V&A Museum. Arguably the most iconic British fashion designer of the 1960s, Mary was self-taught and learned to cut and alter mass market commercial patterns at evening classes to create the looks she wanted. She kickstarted many of the fashion looks of that decade and set the tone for a generation. Her way of altering commercial patterns and creating something diferent and unique seems to me at the very heart of why I make clothes, home décor, quilts and accessories. I started in much the same
I can’t wait to change seasons in my home! way, using commercially available patterns but very quickly altering and adapting them to suit my tastes – what we now call a ‘pattern hack’. It’s not too many steps from changing and altering a commercial pattern to designing your own from scratch. One of the most impressive things I noticed in many of the inalists from this year’s Dressmaker of the Year were the individual design touches, self-drafted patterns and pattern hacks that had been used. The future of dressmaking – as well as the past – continues to inspire me!
Autumn Abode
pieces of hessian. I’ll simply fold the bottom 10cm up and stitch about 0.5cm in from the sides, with raw edges on the outside, to create a pocket for cutlery. I also plan to add some faux autumn leaves and berries in a bunch on the front and hot glue gun a small bow made from a hessian strip tied in the middle with twine to cover the ends of the leaves. I reckon ten place settings should take no more than an hour to make and they will look wonderful on my pine table. I’ve also made a lovely table runner from my last book, Make 100 Quilts, in cosy autumn shades of plum, gold and rust, which is a great place to put those warming casseroles I can’t resist over autumn. We’ve got a bumper crop of apples this year too, so I might have another go at making cider – although my last attempt was a bit of a botch. I got impatient, bottled the cider too early and Charlie and I were woken one morning to the sound of popping corks and the smell of apple cider. Oops! You live and learn.
Stuart x
You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or visit @stuarthillardsews on Instagram
SEW MAGAZINE 69
I’ve made a table runner from my book Make 100 Quilts in cosy autumn shades
September is also a pivotal month for me when it comes to changing seasons in my home. It’s often the little touches, like cushions and throws and a switch of candles, that capture a season. This month I’m making new table décor out of hessian. It’s a wonderfully textural fabric; it’s inexpensive and versatile and I love the way the edges fray. We spend so much of our crafting time trying to wrestle with our materials and getting frustrated. Sometimes it’s best to embrace a fabric’s natural properties and make a feature of them, so I’m making simple place settings with some 10cm x 30cm
I’m heading down to London this month to visit the Mary Quant exhibition, vam.ac.uk
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Wish t s i L
Now here’s something that will make you go weak at the knees and get your pulse racing – no, we’re not suggesting that you conduct a workout in your front room – it’s our Wishlist! Flex your sewing skills with two swimwear patterns, sink into a fabulous embroidery read, and put Wilkinson’s brand-new scissors to good use. On your marks, get set, sew!
Easy Embroidery
Cuting Edge
William Whiteley & Sons Ltd has released its Wilkinson Colours range for left-handed dressmakers! The limited-edition scissors feature handles in red, teal and purple, and will include an extra sharp version which has microserrated blades to grip slippery material. From £42, whiteley.co.uk
Fine Work
Make garments your own with this superb project book! Customize your Clothes is jam-packed with ideas for personalising your me-made items, and it’s perfect for embroidery newbies, too. It will show you which stitches work best with certain designs and teach you how to embellish with beads. £12.99, kylebooks.com
These beautiful, one-of-a-kind cushions are from Fine Cell Work, a charity which trains prisoners to master needlework skills. The social enterprise believes that by teaching the inmates a craft, it’s encouraging discipline and promoting self-esteem. London skyline in Pink, £65, inecellwork.co.uk
Hapy Post From author and presenter Hannah Read-Baldrey comes a unique monthly box of creative projects for all ages! Each MakeBox+Co. parcel features the tools, materials and instructions you need to create a wonderful piece, whether that be a rainbow weaving, peony wreath or bee embroidery hoop. From £19.99, makebox.co
SEW MAGAZINE 72
Life in Hoops Embroidered Life by Sara Barnes is an eye-catching book which delves into the artwork of self-taught stitcher, Sarah K. Benning. Each double page contains a photograph of one of Sarah’s hoops, such as a beautiful botanical scene or love-heart succulent, plus a detailed description about how and why she created the piece. Out on 3rd September 2019, £17.99, chroniclebooks.com
Sut Yourself Make the most of the September sun with this easy swimwear pattern. The Seabright Swimmer by Friday Pattern Company is a gorgeous one-piece that can be made with long-sleeves for extra comfort and ray protection, and is specially designed for four-way knits. £11, fridaypattern company.com
Tell us your favourite products by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk
home & gifts
4
ways with
My Unicorn Collection
Add a touch of magic to a little one’s back-to-school essentials with these four makes created in the My Unicorn range! To make sure your youngster is prepped for their irst day, Corinne Bradd has made a set of scrunchies, a handy book bag, mega-sized pencil case, and a cuddly mascot, Sugarlump the Unicorn. The fabric created by Kelly Panacci features 100% cotton materials and boasts cool shades of mint, teal, pink and periwinkle with mythical motifs.
Get started
Purchase the My Unicorn collection from rileyblakedesigns.com
SEW MAGAZINE 73
l Fabric: My Unicorn collection; patterned, plain, silver cotton l Cotton DK yarn, white l Fibre illing l Lightweight cotton wadding l Buttons l Elastic, 1mm wide l Zip, 20cm l Hook and loop fastener
ways
4 with
My Unicorn Collection Sew a set of scrunchies
1
Cut fabric, 10cm x 50cm. Fold in and press 5mm along both long edges. Fold in half in the opposite direction, right sides facing, and sew the two short edges together.
2
Turn the loop right sides out and match up the pressed hems, right sides
facing out. Pin and topstitch 2mm from the edge, leaving a 2cm gap.
3
Use a bodkin to thread elastic through the gap and around the scrunchie. Knot the elastic to the desired size, trim the ends and slip-stitch the gap closed.
“These sweet scrunchies are so quick and easy to make, why not create one in each of the fabrics from this gorgeous range?� Corinne Bradd, Sew designer
Create a pencil case
1
Fussy cut two panels, 20cm x 22cm, to include a full printed motif. Trim two matching pieces of plain cotton, then pair up one set, right sides together. Cut across the set, 4.5cm from the top edge. Sandwich the webbing of a zip in between the top edges of the larger section so that the front of the zip is facing the printed material.
SEW MAGAZINE 74
2
Sew along the length of the zip and open the fabric right sides out, so the zip sticks out of the top. Topstitch along the lower edge of the zip, 2mm from the seam. Stitch the two smaller sections to the opposite edge of the zip in the
same way, checking they are at the correct orientation when opened out.
3
Make sure both pairs of rectangles are right sides facing out, then zig zag stitch around all of the sides to neaten the raw edges. Place the rectangles right sides together with the zip fully closed. Sew around both sides and the top edge with a generous 5mm seam allowance, taking care not to run the needle over any metal parts of the zip. Place your hand inside the case and open the zip fully before stitching across the bottom edge. Turn the case out through the zip opening, then push out the corners and firmly press.
4
home & gifts
Stitch Sugarlump the Unicorn
1
Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk. Cut the unicorn template from two contrasting cotton prints, lipping the pattern over to make mirror images. Pin and sew with a 5mm seam allowance, right sides together, leaving a 5cm gap along the back of the neck.
2
Clip the curves before turning right side out. Stuf the unicorn with ibre illing a little at a time, pushing it into the head and limbs. When stufed, fold in the raw edges of the gap and slipstitch closed.
3
Cut four ears from leftover fabric and sew right sides together in pairs, leaving the bottom edge open. Clip the curves, turn out and press. Fold in the raw bottom edges and sew to either side of the head in an ‘L’ shape. Trim a cone shape from silver fabric, fold in half right sides together, sew down the
long edge, turn out and stuf. Fold under the bottom edge and slip-stitch in between the ears. Sew layered buttons to each side of the head for eyes.
$
TEMPLATE
4
Wrap white cotton yarn around a book or similar item several times. Slip of the book and thread yarn through the top of the loops. Bind the yarn below this and cut the bottom loops to make a long tassel. Use the yarn in the top of the loops to sew the tassel to the unicorn as a tail.
DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
5
With a 4mm crochet hook and white yarn, make a chain of 30 stitches and work a loose double crochet back into each one before fastening of. Cut several 20cm long pieces of yarn and use the hook to fasten the centre of each one to a crochet stitch with a larkshead knot for the mane. Oversew the centre of the mane to the back of the neck and trim the ends.
Thanks to Clair Foskett for helping us name our mascot! We hope you enjoy your prize – a set of Madeira threads! Help us with suggestions for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq
Sew a book satchel
1
Cut two fabric panels, 25cm x 33cm, and a third piece, 10cm x 33cm, to make the front, back and lap of the bag. Sew the top edge of the lap to the top edge of the bag back, right sides together, checking the orientation is correct when the lap is closed. Sew the bottom edges of the front and back pieces together in the same way, then press the seams to one side and topstitch to strengthen.
2
4
5
Refold the bag, taking care to line up the sides accurately. Topstitch the sides together just inside the line of the binding, adding extra stitches to the top of each seam where it will be under greater stress.
SEW MAGAZINE 75
Layer the panel onto pieces of wadding and plain lining material the same size as the fabric. Pin and zig zag stitch together around all four edges. Cut several 3cm wide strips of co-ordinating fabric and join them end to end to make a continuous strip. Use this to bind the edges of the panel before sewing to the reverse, then fold it over to the front 5mm in from the edge and topstitch.
3
Cut two fabric strips, 5cm x 50cm. Fold in half lengthways, right sides together, and sew down the long sides. Turn out and press so the seam lays down the middle of the strap. Topstitch both edges, 2mm from the sides, then fold in and tack the bottom corners to make a neat point. Fold up the padded panel. Position and pin the straps to the back and front, ensuring they do not interfere with the lap. Cut two 5cm long pairs of hook and loop fastening strips, and pin one on the inside lap and another on the outside front of the bag. Open out and topstitch the straps and fastenings in place.
Visit karendelahunty.co.uk
TUE 5TH NOV £100 Dressmaking Course If you’re new to dressmaking, then this is a great place to start! On the four-session course, Karen will take your sewing skills up a notch by teaching you how to make a basic skirt, simple top, or easy dress, which means you’ll learn all about itting a pattern to your measurements and be guided through the construction process.
TUE 10TH DEC £20
Sew a Cosmetic Bag
With this two-hour workshop, you’ll be taught how to create a zip-up bag which is perfect for jet-setting of on your next trip. In the lesson, you’ll not only ind out how to attach a fastening, but you’ll also discover how to insert a lining and apply iron-on interfacing.
& LEARN
Stitch
Karen Delahunty Sewing & Knitting Centre, Kenilworth
Take your sewing skills to Sewing Belle, Nottingham Visit sewingbelle.co.uk
Copy Your Clothes
SAT Do you have a garment which its just right? Recreate it with 14TH SEP this workshop which teaches you £25 how to replicate your favourite clothes by making an exact copy of the pattern pieces. In the lesson, you’ll discover two pattern drafting methods, including how to use voile fabric to map out the garment and trace your clothes, then transfer seam lines, darts, gathers, tucks and more design details.
Get to Know Your
TUE Sewing Machine V If you have a manual sewing machine and NO 12TH would like to know how to make the most £35
SEW MAGAZINE 76
of it, head along to this class for some top advice. You’ll be guided every step of the way, from learning about threading, bobbins and replacing needles to basic seams, tensions, and stitch selections, plus much more.
SUN 1ST SEP £25
Memory Keepsake Bear
WOW! Only £25
Transform sentimental clothing into a sweet, smiley teddy bear! All you’ll need to bring along is a selection of items you’d like to refashion, then the experts at Sewing Belle will teach you how to thread, stuf, interface and attach components to your very own cuddly toy – it’s the perfect make to gift to a little one.
promotion Lampshade Making
On this course, you’ll discover how to make WED a picture-perfect lampshade for your home. 28TH AUG All you’ll need to bring along is one metre £30 of medium-weight fabric, then the tutor will show you how to make the template and cut the fabric, plus provide you with top tips for making a perfectly-inished lampshade.
The Make It Room, Southend Visit themakeitroom.co.uk Beach Bag TUE wave goodbye to the G 20TH AU Don’t warm weather just yet – £25 there’s still time to whip up a few makes like this gorgeous beach bag! Bring along the fabric you’d like to use, then the experts at The Make It Room will teach you the rest. In the lesson, you’ll discover how to insert a lining and attach matching handles and pockets, too.
Clasp Bag
TUE 27TH AUG £25
For this class, all you need to bring along are two pieces of fabric in co-ordinating colours and an eagerness to learn! The workshop will teach you how to make a lovely little bag, by following construction processes such as how to insert a lining and a six-inch clasp fastening.
the next level with these top workshops The New Craft House, London Visit thenewcrafthouse.com
SAT 26TH OCT £400
Bodice Fitting Masterclass
SAT 7TH SEP £350 Introduction to Pattern Cutting For newbie stitchers who want to learn how to create their own patterns, pay a visit to this London shop! On this two-day course, you’ll be guided through a step-by-step process on how to draft a skirt and bodice block based on your measurements. You’ll also discover how to make some amendments to the blocks to transform them into a style to suit you.
Bra Making Class Get to grips with sewing your own underwear with this helpful workshop! In the lesson, you’ll sew one full cup underwired bra using the Cloth Habit Harriet Bra pattern which comes in sizes 28A to 42H. The course will teach you how to cut, mark and sew with stretch fabric as well as silky ones, inish of seams, apply elastic and make basic pattern adjustments.
SEW MAGAZINE 77
If you’ve ever found the idea of pattern alterations a bit daunting, then visit The New Craft House for this workshop on how to create a perfectly-itted bodice. The two-day course will guide you through the itting and alteration process for three types of bodice styles, including darted, princess seam and kimono. At the end of the class, you’ll have brand-new bodice blocks which will it your shape, plus the conidence and knowledge to tackle future dressmaking patterns.
SAT 14TH SEP £160
tea break
From pattern problems to dressmaking dilemmas, we’ve put together some top crafty stories which will have you in stitches!
SCISSOR HAPPY
A STICKY SITUATION
My hubby needed his trousers shortened. He said: “Make sure you don’t cut the same leg twice like last time!” I replied: “I think that was your irst wife.” – it was! Monica Ingoe, Instagram
Note to self: When trying to make a black swan costume, never use a hot glue gun to stick the feathers to the leotard you’re wearing because it’s HOT, HOT, HOT! Mary-Anne Morrison, Instagram
SIMPLE DISTRACTIONS
AVID SEWER I was so engrossed in making a good job of a complicated seam that I didn’t realise the bobbin had run out! That’s what happens when I get carried away and don’t bother to check... Mary Wright, Facebook
I pinned a sleeve onto a jacket while watching TV, then stitched it on my machine without checking it. Yes, you’ve guessed, I’d sewn the sleeve so that the arm stuck straight upwards – I absolutely howled with laughter! Carol Bentley, Instagram
SCHOOL’S OUT I teach sewing to junior school children. One day, I was demonstrating how to back-stitch and sewed the sample to my skirt! Helen Knowles, Instagram
SEW MAGAZINE 78
IT’S JEAN-IUS My jeans play a big part in helping me sew by being a pin cushion. The pins have often accompanied me on the school run! Michelle Corbin, Instagram
PINS & NEEDLES I managed to sew right through the head of a pin, then had to unpick the stitching to get it out of the seam! Lesley Langlands, Facebook
EYE OF THE NEEDLE I once spent ive minutes trying to thread a needle while cursing my eyesight, then I realised I was holding it upside down! Jude, Twitter
THE BIG DAY My husband bought new trousers for a wedding we were invited to, but they needed shortening beforehand – as you can imagine, I was stressed out on the day! So, I carefully measured and chopped a couple of inches of the bottom so they were ready to hem, but what I didn’t realise was that I’d cut the same leg twice! I cried and he laughed, then he went to the wedding in an old pair I quickly washed. Angela Lilley, Facebook
TOTALLY BONKERS When I made a teddy bear, I put his arm on backwards, then tried again and ended up with it upside down with the paw pointing downwards, and on the third try, I was sure I had it right… However, when I moved his little arm to do the inal stitch, its tiny eye looked out at me – it was on the top of his head! Derenda Laws, Twitter
PICTURE PURRRFECT Recently I laid out my fabric on the lounge loor and was pinning on the pattern pieces. Suddenly, one of the cats ran onto the material, stopped, and slid across the loor – his face was a picture! Helen Jones, Instagram
ALL TIED UP My thread got away and ended up tangled around my ankles, then I got up and fell lat on my face! @ginge_in_stitches, Instagram
Get in touch and let us know all about your stitchy stories on our social media @sewhq
Illustrations by Catherine Morton. Emojis: Shutterstock
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Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics. Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions. And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST
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4 Easy Steps... 1
First log in or sign up to the Sew website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE. Find the tab circled at the top.
free pattern downloads! Get prepped for the chillier months ahead with these tweed and tartan makes. Head to sewmag.co.uk and follow our ‘4 Easy Steps’ to get started! WOODLAND CUSHIONS
TARTAN WRAP
2
Search for a pattern by title, according to the project names opposite. Click on the search tab.
3
Click the ‘Download Template’ button, which you will find under the main image.
Issue 127 September 2019
You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our previous issues at sewmag.co.uk/ templates
TWEED CAP
4
Save the pattern PDF by right clicking to save on your computer, then print out (DON’T fit to the page!)
CHICKEN DOORSTOP
SEW MAGAZINE 81
TILING DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern, as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready to join the sheets!
Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today!
20% off* ABAKHAN Fabracadabra: a word or expression used when fabric magically appears in your stash! So when you’d like more material to ‘magically’ turn up in the sewing room, use the code SEW8 for an amazing 20% of at abakhan.co.uk. The store has an incredible array of dressmaking materials, including poplin, jersey and linen. *Valid from 22nd July 2019 until 22nd August 2019.
This spectacular prize will see you enjoying a yummy two-course meal at a central London restaurant before heading of to the theatre to watch a show of your choice! You’ll collect two top-end tickets for either the stalls or circle, and experience a West End show like Aladdin, School of Rock and Mamma Mia!, amongst others. Available at redletterdays.co.uk
Fat Quarter Toys is the latest addition to a fabulous series of stash-busting books by Susie Johns. The read contains 25 sweet toys and games to make for young children, such as a tiger rattle, picnic blanket and stacking rings, all from fat quarters and fabric scraps. Each project includes clear step-by-step instructions and there’s a useful techniques section for beginners. Available at gmcbooks.com
FAT QUARTER BOOK!
We have eight books to give away. To enter, tick BOOKS
WEST END SHOW!
WIN 14 CHANCES
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TO WIN!
Whatever your idea of a relaxing getaway is, Buy a Gift has the perfect thing in store! With this prize, you can choose from a whole host of luxurious onenight breaks at locations across the UK and Europe. Will you make use of the spa at the Regency Park Hotel in Berkshire, relax in a Brighton seafront abode, or soak up the views at the Elme Hall Hotel in Cambridgeshire? Available at buyagift.co.uk
LUXURY BREAK!
SEW MAGAZINE 82
We have two luxury breaks to give away. To enter, tick LUXURY
Crafter’s Companion’s easy-to-use stencils include everything you need to create professional-looking quilting projects! There are three diferent designs to choose from: Feathers, Celtic and Geometric, and this giveaway also includes the washable Mark Away Spray so you can print the stencils onto fabric for guidance. Available at crafters companion.co.uk We have three sets to give away. To enter, tick THREADERS
WORTH
£195!
The Cottesloe swimsuit was designed with every igure in mind as it features four fully-lined pattern variations: a one-piece with a scoop or high back, and a bikini with either low-rise or high-waisted bottoms. Plus, the swimsuit comes in a curve version, including sizes 14 to 30! Available at megannielsen.com We have 14 PDF patterns to give away. To enter, tick SWIMWEAR
Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today! £100
OF PATTERNS!
25% off* CRAFTER’S COMPANION Take a peek at Crafter’s Companion’s sewing and needlecraft section for exciting products, such as materials for quilting, cross stitch and embroidery. Best of all, the brand is ofering you 25% of the entire section! Simply add the single-use code SEWMAG25 at crafterscompanion.co.uk *Valid from 22nd July 2019 until 22nd August 2019. Single-use code only.
with sew After you’ve inished stitching up a storm, you’ll need a dainty silver necklace to pair with your recentlymade outit, and these two from Jana Reinhardt will do just the trick! The winged chain has a lat back so it will sit perfectly on the wearer, and the sterling silver hummingbird one is guaranteed to turn heads. Available at janareinhardt.com
Be in with the chance of winning £1,270 of goodies!
Sew Box is ofering one lucky reader the chance to pick patterns from its website up to the value of £100! The Sufolk-based online shop features patterns from a whole host of houses, including Cashmerette, By Hand London, Colette Patterns and Tilly and the Buttons – so no matter what your fashion sense, you’re guaranteed to ind patterns you love! Available at sewbox.co.uk We have one pattern bundle to give away. To enter, tick SEW BOX
£150 FABRIC BUNDLE!
WORTH OVER
£185! With sewing expertise that spans three generations, it’s safe to say that online store Croft Mill knows a lot about fabric! Its superb collection of material ranges from British wools to satin crepes, plus we have a soft spot for the Roald Dahl cotton sateen featured in this issue’s Fashion Forecast – we wonder what brilliant variations your bundle will include... Available at croftmill.co.uk
We have two necklaces to give away. To enter, tick NECKLACE
We have one fabric bundle to give away. To enter, tick CROFT MILL
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SEW MAGAZINE 83
To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 05.09.2019* Mark your envelope: Sew September Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Sufolk, IP2 8WG.
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Here at , we have arranged for all readers to receive an EXCLUSIVE 50% of Sew Style craft book, RRP £12.99, where you only pay £6.49! This will be your go-to guide for stitching your way to a wardrobe full of chic, timeless garments. Within these pages, you’ll ind an abundance of enchanting projects, all drawing inspiration from the iconic Includes looks and styles that shaped the patterns fashion we see today. Also, get sewing worth over straight away with your three FREE dressmaking patterns!
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tea break
the
BOOKS we’re loving... Sit back, relax & delve into these crafting reads 1
3
2 4 SASHIKO by Jill Clay
TURN TO P60 TO MAKE A SASHIKO APRON MINDFULNESS II by Alison Davies
Mindfulness is deined as maintaining an awareness of your thoughts, emotions and experiences, and us stitchers know that one of the best ways to be at one with our mind is by crafting. But if you need an extra push to feel at peace, delve into Alison’s read for inspirational quotes and calming exercises. £6.99, quadrille.com
5
Dive into a magical underwater world full of mermaid-themed projects! This craft book contains
CRAFTED by Sally Coulthard What image does the word ‘craft’ conjure up? Do you think of the skills your parents passed on to you? Or the handmade items you’ve lovingly created yourself? This delightful read draws on these experiences by exploring and celebrating over 70 of the world’s most popular crafts, outlining their history, materials and techniques. £20, quadrille.com
FAT QUARTER TOYS by Susie Johns The latest fat quarter project book by Susie Johns is here and it’s better than ever! In this read, you’ll learn how to create 25 fun toys for youngsters using leftover fabric, such as a tiger rattle and cuddle blanket. Each make has clear step-by-step instructions and accompanying photographs, too. £12.99, thegmcgroup.com
SEW MAGAZINE 85
THE MERMAID CRAFT BOOK by Laura Minter and Tia Williams
15 easy-to-make items including a sea-shell necklace, ishtail pencil case and Triton’s spear. What’s more, little ones can make these items themselves with minimal guidance from a grown-up. £5.99, thegmcgroup.com
Pick up this book to master the sewing technique everyone’s talking about! Sashiko explores the art of the Japanese method and demonstrates how to apply it to a range of items like ones for the home, accessories and gifts, such as a notebook cover, wall-hanging and lovely apron which you can make on page 60. £14.99, thegmcgroup.com
who does what... Editor, Lucy Jobber lucy.jobber@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Sophie Demetriades sophie.demetriades@aceville.co.uk Editorial Assistant, Laura Wybrow laura.wybrow@aceville.co.uk Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Graphic Designers Gemma Eales, Cat Morton & Fiona Palmer Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Andrea, Jo, Nevs Models Fashion stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Make up, Dottie Monaghan Accounts, Denise Bubb 01206 505958 Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0800 904 7000 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300
your SEWING GUIDE Get to grips with the dressmaking basics! THE PERFECT FIT The key to successful itting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope or Size It Up panel over the page, then you can make any necessary alterations. Cut out the paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best it (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.
l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally diferent to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to it your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.
Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Customer Service, aceville@dctmedia.co.uk
TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS
Senior Subscriptions Marketing Executive Laura Tebby sew@servicehelpline.co.uk
HIGH BUST
SEW MAGAZINE 86
Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd.
Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys. All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.
FULL BUST
WAIST HIPS
Measure while in the underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.
HEIGHT Standing against a lat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the loor to the top of your head. HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust. FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments. HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.
Whip up the easy-wear Matilda skirt, available for FREE at sewmag.co.uk
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
SIZE IT UP Once you have your body measurements, choose the closest size from the chart below. Remember, there will be variations depending on which fabric and pattern you choose, so always make a toile irst.
READING A PATTERN The basic markings you will ind on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.
For size 8: Bust - 78cm Waist - 59cm Hip - 85cm Back neck to waist - 39cm
MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES
These lines indicate dress sizes. Highlighting yours can help with cutting.
For size 10:
GRAINLINE
Bust - 83cm Waist - 64cm Hip - 88cm Back neck to waist - 40cm
Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).
For size 12: Bust - 88cm Waist - 69cm Hip - 93cm Back neck to waist - 41cm
For size 14: Bust - 93cm Waist - 74cm Hip - 98cm Back neck to waist - 42cm
For size 16: Bust - 98cm Waist - 79cm Hip - 103cm Back neck to waist - 43cm
For size 18: Bust - 103cm Waist - 84cm Hip - 108cm Back neck to waist - 44cm
For size 20: Bust - 108cm Waist - 89cm Hip - 113cm Back neck to waist - 45cm
BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS
These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.
FOLD LINE
MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS
NOTCHES
This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.
These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.
Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.
“Corduroy has a nap, which means that all of the pattern pieces must be cut in the same direction. Another tip is to invest in a walking foot as it will prevent the two layers from slipping when stitching. It’s also a good idea to press the seams on a seam roll to avoid indents on the right side of the fabric too, plus use a damp muslin or thin handkerchief on top of the fabric to protect it when ironing.” MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY
PLACING YOUR PIECES With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces. Most patterns ofer a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be put on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece until both measurements are the same.
SELVEDGES
UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:
WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.
WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a inished piece that will follow the contours of the body. SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.
WARP
Baby Driver – Dash, £12 per metre, croftmill.co.uk
WEFT FOLD
SEW MAGAZINE 87
CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE
This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.
TUCKS AND GATHERS
Bring these lines together before stitching.
S BIA
“This gorgeous corduroy fabric would make a fabulous skirt, with its navy hues, striking red floral pattern and dashes of turquoise and cream.”
BUST/HIP INDICATORS
Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.
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Tilly guides you through making five gorgeous sewing patterns – inside the book on full-scale printed sheets – and includes inspiration and step-by-step instructions for customising the projects to make them your own. The patterns included are: l Bibi skirt and pinafore l Frankie T-shirt l Freya sweater and dress l Stella hoodie and joggers l Joni dress
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• Tailored to it B, C, D and DD cup sizes • Gathered waist and slit collar details
GET THE LOOK • Make a jacket, top and pair of wide leg trousers • Create in lightweight fabrics, such as cotton and crepe
You’ll love our OCTOBER ISSUE • FREE 20 Toys to Sew project book enclosed • Discover the secrets behind the iconic brand Chanel • Plus, make our easy Harry Potter hoop! Look Out! Our October issue is on sale 22nd August 2019
SEW MAGAZINE 89
*Features subject to change. Pattern sizes may vary. US sizes only
AMAZING FIT
Thea Porter’s Scrapbook by Amy de la Haye and Thea Porter is out now! unicornpublishing.org
Charlie Caftan, £14.20, store.closetcasepatterns.com
StyleStory
the kaftan
Palm leaf kaftan, £15.99, yoursclothing.co.uk
From hippie to haute: here’s how this robe went global Words by Laura Wybrow Over the years, ‘kaftan’ has become a catch-all term for loose-fitting smock dresses; with designers each putting their stamp on the traditionally narrow, loor-length robe with long sleeves and a deep open neck. The outit was irst spotted in the 14th century when the sultan of the Ottoman Empire donned them to show of their status – the more decoration it held, such as ribbons, buttons and embroidery – the higher ranking a person was. But Turkey wasn’t the only country to sport this stunning gown, Morocco and Russia had their own adaptations too, and unsurprisingly, the kaftan soon navigated its way towards the west. While Christian Dior was busy designing an open-fronted version of the kaftan, and Yves Saint Laurent and Cristóbal Balenciaga were channelling loose-itting evening gowns in their collections, westerners embarked on the hippie trail in the 1960s and purchased their own authentic kaftans. The hippie trail was a route which started in Europe, then travelled East through places like
SEW MAGAZINE 90
Dreamy
Jordan, Iran and Pakistan, before arriving in Bangkok, and travellers would pick up various items along the way to remind them of their adventures. And it was in this decade that Thea Porter transformed the kaftan into the boho chic item it is today!
Boho Chic During her 20-year career, designer Thea Porter created spirited clothes made from richly-patterned silks, which were quickly snapped up by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Barbra Streisand. The first garment she ever created was a kaftan, complete with a standing collar and long sleeves, plus a traditional slim and floor-length fit. Her interpretation of the established piece stood out amongst the crowd because she took inspiration from her middle eastern roots, having been born in Jerusalem and raised in Damascus. Thea’s kaftans were stitched in materials such as velvet, silk and brocade, and finished with crystals – so it’s no surprise they came with a hefty price tag! But if you fancy sewing your own version for a fraction of the price, Heather Lou from Closet Case Patterns is on board to tell you how.
Yes You Can First things first, the material! Heather says: “My absolute favourite fabric for sewing a kaftan is rayon challis; it’s easy to handle and drapes like a dream,” smiles Heather. “But for lightweight materials like this, you have to starch it to add body and make it easier to cut and sew. To do this, simply mix a cornstarch and water solution, soak the fabric in it, carefully squeeze out the excess liquid, then hang flat to dry.” As for the garment’s colour and embellishments, Heather says: “I love bold hues with oversized, vibrant prints – a bright kaftan makes me feel like the former editor-in-chief of Vogue Diana Vreeland, at her most fabulous! I also recently discovered the joys of embroidery; add some small, sweet hand-stitched details just above the hemline, and your kaftan will look smashing!” With Heather’s useful tips in mind, are you ready to put your own spin on the kaftan for the last of the summer sun?
Granito night, £17.80 per metre
Moonstone ochre, £17.80 per metre
Fabric
Viscose is a fantastic alternative to rayon challis as it’s smooth and soft, plus it has a luxurious feel with a slinky drape. These beautiful materials from Atelier Brunette will enable you to sew a lovely kaftan – if you can decide on just one! Available at atelierbrunette.com
Posie green, £17.80 per metre