Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food n.144

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

COCKTAIL BARs.

ARE DRINKS AND FOOD FINALLY ON THE SAME LEVEL? THE FESTIVAL OF ITALIAN FLAVOUR IN THE WORLD

ELBA AND ITS WINE ANSONICA

year 22 - number 144 - november 2020 - gamberorosso.it

SOMMARIO WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

COCKTAIL BARs.

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Editorial

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News

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Wine of the Month

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Seasonal Cocktail

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My Export

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The roadshow must go on: Gambero Rosso starts again from Ukraine

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Cene tre bicchieri

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Surprise: Cocktail bars serve good food. Let’s investigate

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Great chefs: Giuseppe Gasperoni. Osteria del Povero Diavolo

ARE DRINKS AND FOOD FINALLY ON THE SAME LEVEL? THE FESTIVAL OF ITALIAN FLAVOUR IN THE WORLD

ELBA AND ITS WINE ANSONICA

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year 22 - number 144 - november 2020 - gamberorosso.it

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What is the Italian flavour? The true Italian flavour means recognising one’s whereabouts from what one is eating: region, city or possibly countryside. The Italian flavour is a journey with the palate acting as a GPS, capable of perfectly taking us to our destination, the place of origin of the product. We just celebrated the fifth edition of the Week of Italian Cuisine in the world, bringing back to the centre stage the values of the Mediterranean Diet and the work of an extraordinary writer and gastronome like Pellegrino Artusi, 200 years after his birth. Tastings, dinners, online conferences, video-recipes by chefs, tutorials, insights, special openings were held in all corners of the world for a grand celebration of Italian food and wine tradition. This was an opportunity to reaffirm the contours of our cuisine and our flavours. It’s precisely abroad that the contours of how we eat in Italy take shape even more clearly. Yes, we like to eat tasteful food, a term that in wine is often mistaken for ‘savoury,’ which is a taste sensation that leads back to salt, which reinforces the flavour, prolonging it in the mouth. It certainly has nothing to do with the amount of salt used in the kitchen. It has to do instead with the cultivation of the product, with the minerals in the soil, with the terroir and its biodiversity. The Italian flavour is not the expression of a technique, but of a protagonist who forcefully takes the stage: product and its origin. Flavours such as the spiciness and intensity of an Umbria extra-virgin olive oil: or a ripe, sweet tomato with a vibrant acidity like the Corbarino campano variety; a Sicilian orange that is capable of spreading its potent scent in a 100 square meter apartment. These flavours are our veritable national treasure. So much so that often when we are abroad, we Italians have the feeling that food lacks a pinch of flavour, of intensity. Our palate is set on high parameters of freshness and acidity, a taste that veers towards the dry, in fact the use of sugar or sweet sauces in our recipes is actually quite rare. Same for our wines, which on average are sharper in their acidic or tannic texture, and for this reason become masterful companions of the table. No competition, really. This is why this aspect continues to grow immoderately abroad, with an offer that has finally changed its face. Let’s forget the mangled names, the overcooked pasta, restaurants whose insignia is reminiscent of coastal vacation destinations. These are dead restaurants walking and there are less and less of them around the world. The Italian dining scene abroad has become the stage for a new generation of very young, talented Italian chefs who are raising the quality bar of our cuisine. They obsessively seek the Italian flavour in the kitchen, in wine, in our very own exquisite way of living at the table. A journey seated at the table sans passport, something that these days is more welcome than ever. Lorenzo Ruggeri

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NEWS

ETNA DOC. Healthy grapes and excellent prospects for the wines of the 2020 vintage

It is one of those Italian territories where grapes are harvested far ahead than in other areas and it is also one of the fastest growing and most celebrated districts in recent years. The winegrowers of the four sides of Mt Etna in Sicily, have closed the harvest operations for the 2020 vintage and the first results being announced are more than positive. The protection Consortium chaired by Antonio Benanti and directed by Maurizio Lunetta speaks of healthy, ripe and balanced grapes. “We are very satisfied and we think we can obtain wines of great quality from

the 2020 vintage,” comments Benanti. The vineyards, cultivated with native varieties (Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Carricante), extend at altitudes ranging from 400 to over 1,000 meters, with different microclimates depending on the slopes. “Net of this variety,” he adds, “we were able to find some objective aspects, present almost everywhere. The harvest of the grapes of Cantina Lavis in 2020 reaches 90,000 quintals, with a production potential of about 63,000 hectoliters.” For the more than 800 members of the Trentino cooperative, this is not a record

year, like 2018 was, but the impressions gathered by oenologist Ezio Dallagiacoma are positive: “As far as white grapes are concerned, we’re observing the presence of a very interesting aromatic profile and a nice olfactory intensity. While for the red, the fruity components and the overall freshness truly stand out.” The vintage, as a whole, is defined of “good level” and the members were “good at managing the vineyards during the summer rains, and carefully selecting the grapes during the harvest” he concludes “according to the different types of wine that we produce.”

HORECA. Club excellence confirms the board of directors and appoints Luca Cuzziol as President Change at the top ranks of Club excellence, the association representing 18 Italian wineries operating in the distribution and import of wines and spirits, around which 1,400 agents and nearly one thousand producers gravitate. In the meeting held on November 5th, in which the current board of directors was reconfirmed, there was also the appointment of a new President, Mr Luca Cuzziol, born in 1967, who since its foundation has led the Cuzziol grandi vini company, based in Santa Lucia di Piave, in the province of Treviso. He has been one of the founders of Club excellence since its inception in 2012. In addition to Cuzziol, the reconfirmed board members are: Christian Bucci (Les Caves de Pyrene), Alessandro Sarzi Amadé (Sarzi Amadé), Pietro Pellegrini (Pellegrini) and the outgoing president Massimo Sagna (Sagna).

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NEWS

DOC VALPOLICELLA. Olga Bussinello leaves the helm of the Consortium

Primitivo di Manduria. The 2019 turnover is growing

Personal reasons and new professional challenges at the origin of Olga Bussinello’s decision to leave the position of director of the tutelage Consortium of Valpolicella wines with immediate effect from this week. Ten years of intense work Bussinello has been a figure whose dedication has been highly appreciated in the wine sector. The first woman in Italy to hold a managerial position in a protection consortium, she leaves behind an asset of over 150 promotional initiatives on target markets carried out in the last decade, and more than 70 institutional and technical-training events for companies. The “Valpolicella education program” (2018) projects and the RRR (reduce, reuse, respect) sustainable certification program bear her signature. “In wishing you new personal and professional successes, we hope to give continuity to the development of the denomination even in this difficult economic phase,” is the comment of President Christian Marchesini

Approximately 17 million liters equivalent to 22.7 million bottles with a turnover of over 147.5 million euros (+21% compared to 2018). Thus Primitivo di Manduria closes 2019 and looks forward to the current year with confidence, despite the critical issues related to Covid. The harvest, closed in the second part of September, appears to be of excellent quality, although with a quantity decreased by 40%. “Our wine” comments Mauro di Maggio, President of the Consortium, “knows no crisis especially abroad with an important exploit on all markets.” The Protection Consortium currently includes 57 member wineries and over 1,500 winegrowers.

TRENDS. Italian wineries are focusing attention on eco-friendly wines for key markets. In China and Russia the focus is on premiums. Survey results of the wine2wine Summit Producers have elected eco-friendly wines as the most strategic between now and the next three years. This is what emerges from the survey conducted by Vinitaly-Nomisma Observatory on the wine business in the Covid era, on a sample of 165 wine companies with a turnover ranging between 2.5 and 4 billion euros. From the exclusive preview for Tre Bicchieri (the entire survey will be presented on Saturday, November 21st at 10.30 am on the wine2wine exhibition platform), it also emerges that, alongside sustainable, organic, natural and green packaging for wines, the market is always asking for more also

premium, light (mixable) and sparkling wines. The top 10 also includes structured, local, rosé and natural wines. In particular, if looking at individual countries, sustainability is the first factor in 5 key markets out of 7, with the USA in the lead (with 48% of answers). The situation changes in China and Russia, where, on the other hand, the most important wines seem to be in the premium range, with respectively 71% and 52% of responses (also for Japan, this type of product wins 26% of the answers) and structured ones (collapsing in the States with 5% of the answers). On the contrary, in these two markets, sustainability

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and organic do not seem particularly appealing: in China these don’t even appear in the top 5; while for Russia organic does not go beyond 17%. The positioning of light wines is equally interesting. These occupy third place in the USA, Great Britain, Germany, China, and fourth place in Russia and Australia, thanks to the success of Prosecco in the world (it’s no coincidence that sparkling wine comes immediately after). Rosé wines still remain out of the top 5, however, they win 20% of responses for USA and Great Britain. Again, raising expectations is Prosecco with the new rosé version recently launched on the market.

NEWS

WINE OF THE MONTH

Amarone della Valpolicella 2016 COTTINI - MONTE ZOVO Zovo, 23a 37013 Caprino Veronese VR www.montezovo.com Average retail price: 50 euros

Diego Cottini’s winery is located at the northern end of the province of Verona, where the hills become increasingly steep and the Adige valley emerges ominously. Their many hectares of vineyards in eastern Valpolicella, Tregnago and Sirmione are destined both for the production of Bardolino and for their more creative selections, while the Civaie estate hosts the grapes for their Lugana wines. The style, which is precise and well interpreted by Diego’s son Michele, features clear varietal expression and excellent solidity. The quality of their Amarone stands out from the large selection of wines, which range from historic Verona appellations to more creative wines. It offers up aromas of sweet, ripe fruit, enriched with balsamic, oaky overtones. Our Wine of the Month opens warm and soft in the mouth, progressing into a generous, powerful palate well-supported by tannins. The 2016 amazes for the freshness of its aromas, smooth yet potent, supported by acidity and almost salty vein that confers expansion without weighing down the palate. The finish is long and very lively, this is defnitely a wine to stock. It will reach his peak in the next 10 years. Food pairing? We strongly suggest some braised beef meat cooked with a little touch of Amarone wine. Served together with some polenta. Buon appetito.

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SPIRITS

SEASONAL SEASONAL COCKTAIL COCKTAIL byPaola Paola Mencarelli Mencarelli by

MARTINI CORTADO Vincenzo Civita and Marco Colonnelli Picteau Cocktail Bar, Hotel Lungarno - Florence 7 cl Tanqueray Ten Gin 1,5 cl Lustau Sherry Palo Cortado

GLASS: Martini

TECHNIQUE: Stir and Strain GARNISH: Grapefruit zest

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ver since we discovered Sherry, we thought of an ingredient to enhance the mixology, fascinated by the history as well as by the aromas and scents it releases with every sip. We chose Palo Cortado by Lustau for its elegant body, with delicate spicy notes of dark chocolate and hazelnuts, as the perfect accomplice of Tanqueray Ten. On the nose, the drink releases the freshness of grapefruit essential oils, which open the doors to the intense bouquet of gin. The result on the palate is a particularly dry Martini, balanced by the notes of sherry with hints reminiscent of the autumn season, perfect to sip on the first cold days."

(PHOTO BY MARTINO DINI)

BARTENDERS: Vincenzo Civita, from Puglia, born in 1990, grew up in the family bar, then took off by collecting important experiences that refined his talent: in Milan at Princi, in Tuscany at the Principe in Forte dei Marmi and at Andana in Castiglione della Pescaia, in London at Aquavit and China Tang at the Dorchester and back again in Milan at Bulk. Marco Colonnelli, Florentine, born in 1989, with a dregree in engineering and passionate about art, approached the coffee world at a very young age and then devoted himself to mixology, gaining experience in his own city in the splendid terraces of the Brunelleschi Hotel and the Grand Hotel Minerva. Together, since the end of 2018, the duo is the elegant and professional soul of Picteau Cocktail Bar, in the luxurious and contemporary setting of the Lungarno Hotel of the Lungarno Collection group. Here they bring together the great classics of cocktail mixology with a touch of innovation, so much so that they have earned the “Best Negroni Cocktail” and “Best Martini Cocktail” Awards - with the Martini Cortado, awarded by Blue Blazer - in 2019 and 2020 editions respectively at Florence Cocktail Week.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X LA VERSA

La Versa restarts from the future with Oltrepò classic method 2

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Few Italian wineries can boast a history as long as that of La Versa. Founded in 1905, today it is part of the Terre d’Oltrepò group, one of the most impressive cooperatives in northern Italy, which was in turn created from the merger of the Broni and Casteggio cooperatives; a colossus that can count on a vineyard area of over 4,500 hectares cultivated by a host of over 700 contributing members. These numbers already show how La Versa (and the Terre d’Oltrepò group) knows perfectly the area of the Pavia province marking the southern Lombard border and wedged, below the Po river, between Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna. «La Versa is the brand of the Group specialised in sparkling wines, especially made with the Classic Method - explains President Andrea Giorgi - our relationship with the

territory boasts more than a century of history and our vineyards really cover a large area of the appellation: we are present in 50 municipalities of the Oltrepò Pavese, on land of different geological formations ranging from a few meters above sea level to hills that exceed 500 meters above sea level». The main feature of this area is therefore the high pedoclimatic variability which over the years has meant that implementation of various ampelographic solutions have been experimented: “The great versatility of the territory allows us to create structured reds, elegant and mineral whites, but also fresh bases to use for the best spumante wines, obtaining good results with very different grapes. All this, on the other hand, has also led to an ineffective wine specialisation of the area on which, however, we,

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like other producers, are highly engaged in.» A specialisation that here in La Versa passes through the production of sparkling wines: «In the early 1900s, together with Lunelli and a few other visionary producers, we were the founders of the Italian Classic Method; in this case, La Versa was the first winery to put on the market a Classic Method Millesimato sparkling wine». But back on the territory, La Versa, according to the industrial plan adopted by the new management, has decided to focus much attention on the agricultural plan and above all on the agronomic coordination of partners: «In 2016 a new, serious project was started with the creation of a agronomist office that follows members from pruning to harvest. All this also through collaborations with important local research bod-

GAMBERO ROSSO X LA VERSA

1. A suggestive view of the Oltrepò area with its different altitudes and vineyards ranging from 500 meters to sea level 2. Harvest in La Versa 3. The historic Cantina Sociale di Santa Maria La Versa, founded in 1905 photos by Ermanno Bidone

ies, with universities and technical institutes of the province. We want our winegrowers to be able to produce and bring to the cellar some excellent grapes that our technical staff (who also makes use of a collaboration with Riccardo Cotarella) will then transform into excellent wines». Quality therefore, but also sustainability: «Our approach to sustainability is strongly reasoned; the territorial variety we mentioned forces us to intervene on the various territories in an always different way: the solution used for one area may not be efficient in another. This is why we follow the winegrowers step by step, recommending the best intervention from time to time: grassing, green manure, little invasive agro-mechanical practices, minimal use of pesticides; even being a large company, we implement micro-agriculture practices.» And, Giorgi adds: «We are currently putting in place a beautiful project with the European Space Agency and Ticinum Aerospace, an academic spinoff of the University of Pavia. Thus obtaining quantitative information on the wine that will be produced before the grapes are pressed; and this as the final result of a monitoring process using satellite and terrestrial sensors that will help winegrowers to protect their rows at the same time.»

More than a century of history 2019 the brand is purchased by Terre d’Oltrepò, which had already acquired La Versa in February 2017 in partnership with Cavit, an important cooperative from Trentino

2008 Cantina di Broni and Cantina di Casteggio merge: giving birth to Terre d’Oltrepò

1989 always thanks to a fortunate intuition of Duke Denari fosters the launch on the market of an iconic label for the world of Italian sparkling wine: Brut Testarossa

1974 Duke Antonio Giuseppe Denari brings the company into the world of modern wine, helming a change of course to production and image level

1960 birth of Cantina Intercomunale di Broni

1955 a further consecration: Riesling and Gran Spumante obtain a Gold Medal at the Asti Wine Competition

1946 despite the difficulties of WWII, the members reach 500

1935 first experiments on the Classic Method: Gran Spumante Brut is born, which wins the “Grand Prix” at the International Exhibition in Paris in 1937. The company focuses on the label and builds an underground cellar capable of holding 40,000 bottles a year

1915 members reach 100; pinot noir is used for the production of sparkling wines

1907 Cantina di Casteggio is born

1905 Cesare Gustavo Faravelli, along with 22 winegrowers, founds Cantina Sociale di Santa Maria La Versa

La Versa - Santa Maria della Versa (PV) - Via F. Crispi, 15 - 0385798411 - laversa.it

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NEWS

MY EXPORT Andrea Tinazzi – Tinazzi 1 What is the percentage of exports on the company total? More than 90% of production is directed abroad, with particular attention to Russia, where we are positioned among the top Italian exporters. The other international markets are, in order, USA, Switzerland, Germany, China, Benelux, Denmark and Scandinavian countries, plus many others, for a total of over 35 nations.

2 How are exports going given the restrictions due to lockdown? Our wines are marketed for the most part in the Horeca sector, but also in wine shops, large distribution and online channels. Being so diversified, in particular being present in large part in online channels and large-scale distribution in this delicate moment, allows us to carry on our business.

3 How do you normally promote your wines abroad and how are you doing it now with the Covid-19 emergency? We are trying to face the Covid-19 emergency by enhancing the activities that we can do remotely as well as marketing, especially digitally. We are constantly in phone and Skype contact with our customers - mainly foreign - and we continue to receive orders. Given that our area managers can no longer travel, we circulate the product as much as possible. We are also working hard on communication; we do not want to give the impression that everything stops, but we still promote our products and projects on all channels, by sending targeted samples to customers and journalists, communication on social media and the work of our PR office.

4 Let’s say goodbye with an anecdote related to your experiences abroad... We started exporting all over the world in the 80s starting from Germany. What I always say to my clients and friends is that, traveling around the world, I have learned to make myself understood even though I don’t speak a word of English or German. I think they actually understand me better than when I have a translator with me.

Tinazzi | Lazise | Verona | www.tinazzi.it

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO VALTÈNESI

In the name of “Rose” Valtènesi Doc Riviera del Garda, Italian excellence 1

“knot.” It is the typical vine of the Brescia side of Garda and is found only in Valtènesi (not to be confused with Groppello di Revò, a very small production niche in the Trentino Val di Non valley). It is a native vine, whose most common “ecotype” is the groppello gentile, easy to recognize by the shape of the apex and the always winged medium size cluster, and cylindrical shape. The grape has a very thin skin that can have shades of different colours from intense blue at the apex, to a yellowish red in the distal part. «In short - the Consortium affirms - we consider it our grape variety par excellence, the grape that has identified us for generations in the various productions of pure wine or in blends that include other varieties. We love it like we love familiar things, which we know even before learning to walk, and which then accompany us one step after another in our lives.»

If there is one terroir of Italian wine that has firmly focused on its identity, it is undoubtedly the Valtènesi appellation of the “Riviera del Garda Classico” in the Province of Brescia. The area is characterised by municipalities overlooking the lake from Desenzano to Gardone Riviera and inland municipalities lying on the moraine hills from Lonato to Puegnago del Garda. Here the indigenous Groppello grape has always been the grape giving lake wines. A wine that is increasingly vinified in pink, thanks to the “Molmenti method,” developed at the end of the 19th century by Senator Pompeo Molmenti, also Mayor of Moniga del Garda for several years, who called his creation “the wine of a night” because the grapes, pressed softly, remain in contact with the must just a few hours, one night, to give the wine the characteristic “rose petal” colour. The groppello grape variety owes its name to the compact shape of its cluster, similar to a “groppo”, dialect for

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO VALTÈNESI

1. A splendid vineyard-garden with rows of Groppello grapes overlooking Lake Garda Below is the map with the participating wineries of the Valtènesi Consortium

Puegnago del Garda

Gavardo

Samuele Casella fraz.Sopraponte

Ca' Granda Comincioli Conti Thun Delai Franzosi La Basia La Meridiana Monteacuto Podere dei Folli Pasini San Giovanni Scolari Videlle fraz. Raffa

San Felice del Benaco

Le Chiusure Trevignane

DI A VE NE TO

Cascina Belmonte Pietta La Guarda fraz.Castrezzone

LO MB AR

Muscoline

Bedizzole

Polpenazze del Garda

Bergognini Bottarelli Vedrine Fioralba Le Sincette Due Pini fraz. Picedo L'Ulif fraz. Picedo

Manerba sul Garda

Antica Corte ai Ronchi Averoldi Francesco Cantrina Le Gaine L'Unicorno

Avanzi Cavazza Novello Taver VALTÈNESI

Moniga del Garda

Sirmione

Costaripa La Pergola Turina

Ca' Dei Frati Sgreva

Padenghe sul Garda

Pratello Zuliani

Lonato del Garda

Perla del Garda Saottini

Calvagese della Riviera

Società agricola Averoldi Antonio e Luigi Bottenago La Torre Redaelli de Zinis Tenute del Garda Zatti

Desenzano del Garda

Ca' Maiol Cavaliere del Garda Rosini Citari Olivini La Rifra Milan Bordignon Montonale San Girolamo Selva Capuzza

Consorzio Valtènesi - Puegnago del Garda (BS) - Villa Galnica - via Roma, 6 0365555060 - consorziovaltenesi.it

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Pozzolengo

Bulgarini Cadore Castrini Cobue Feliciana Malavasi Marangona Seriati Tenuta Roveglia

STORIES

THE ROADSHOW MUST GO ON: GAMBERO ROSSO STARTS AGAIN FROM UKRAINE by Marco Sabellico

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After the recent digital appointments, Gambero Rosso has resumed bringing Italian wine to the world. First stop is Kyiv, for a longawaited three day jaunt adhering to strict Covid protocols. One this is certain: promotion abroad is still possible

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e did it! Despite the delicate international situation, the cogs of the Top Italian Wines Roadshow mechanism never stopped. Gambero Rosso and 45 Italian wineries constituted the main event of Wine & Spirit Ukraine 2020, the most important trade event in Ukraine, which is a strategic country for our exports to Eastern Europe. With all the necessary precautions - social distancing, masks, sanitizing gel and all - the most important exponents of the Ukrainian food and wine sector had the unique opportunity, on November 3, 4 and 5 in Kyiv (don't call it Kiev! As this is now the prevailing diction in Ukrainian language, also internationally) to taste a great selection of excellent Italian labels, and participate in the master classes we organised. In addition, on November 3 diplomas were also delivered to restaurants, wine bars and pizzerias by Top Italian Restaurants in the World Guide, which also counts excellent representatives in the Ukrainian capital. For us and for the companies present it was the first foreign event after the lockdown and the presentation of the Vini d'Italia 2021 guide. IN 2019, ITALY WAS THE LEADER IN UKRAINIAN WINE IMPORTS "Italy is a very important trading partner for Ukraine," Tony Corradini, director of the Kyiv ICE told us, attending the event on November 3 at the capital's International Exhibition Center. "We are the sixth country in the world in terms of trade volume with Ukraine, and the third at European level, after Germany and Poland," continued Corradini. "If we look at wine, we are leading in imports, and in 2019 we came close to 100 million euros in turnover, almost doubling the figures of 2017." Behind us comes France, with a turnover nearly 50% lower, and then Germany. "The relationship between Italy and Ukraine is extraordina- ››

Italy is the first wine supplier in Ukraine During 2019, wine imports to Ukraine increased both from the world (+17%) and from Italy (+31%). According to the Statistics Service of Ukraine, total imports reached the figure of 146.7 million US dollars. Imports in the first half of 2020 are close to 68 million dollars. Italy is the leading wine supplier in Ukraine with an import market share of 32%. The other main suppliers are: Georgia (16%), France (14%) and Spain (10%). In terms of value, the price of wine imported into Ukraine in 2019 increased by 1% compared to the same period of the previous year. In 2019, there was a 9% decrease in the average price of wine imported from Italy.

STORIES

Upcoming calendar The Ukrainian leg is only the first of many stages of the Gambero Rosso Roadshow. On November 24th it will travel to St. Petersburg, which will host the Tre Bicchieri world tour, while on November 26th it will head up to Moscow, and then continue on December 2nd to Vienna, and December 4th to Prague. On November 30, however, the Vini d’Italia tour will be held, and will be staged in Zurich. A series of digital appointments from the US to Japan, via Taiwan, are also scheduled. https://www.gamberorossointernational.com/events/

›› ry," confirms Kateryna Bilotil, representative of the

HERE ARE THE KYIV WINNERS IN THE TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS GUIDE

Ukrainian Foreign Ministry, who attended the event "and in the future it will only grow. Our country is increasingly looking to the West for commercial relations and strategic collaborations. And Italy, with its culture, its landscapes and its products, is fascinating."

VINO E CUCINA 2 forchette + Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List Award

A COUNTRY THAT’S BUZZING WITH ENERGY "The Gambero Rosso event was a great opportunity for socialisation and discussion," said Olga Pinevich-Todoriuk, editorin-chief of Drink+ magazine, one of the most important in the sector "Ukraine, and Kyiv in particular, have a lively food and wine scene, made up of a plethora of new restaurant openings, many of which are international with Italian cuisine in particular. Your country exerts an incredible fascination on aficionados, who frequent Italian tables and when they can buy Italian wines and food products. Thanks to Gambero Rosso and thanks to the Italian producers who brought us their wines for tasting." "There is a dynamic and brilliant scene in Kyiv and in the most important cities of the country in regards to the food and wine sector," in the words of Irina Gridina, well-known wineexpert and aspiring Master of Wine. "The constant opening of restaurants with beautiful wine lists and wine bars confirm this." Above all, the Ukrainian wine lovers want to deepen their knowledge of the great international wines, as well as cheer for the nascent local wine scene, which has its hub in the Odessa region. "Tasting courses are multiplying," according to Kateryna Yu-

BASSANO 1 forchetta FENIX 1 forchetta PIZZERIA NAPULÈ 1 spicchio schenko, director of the Ukrainian Wine and Spirit School, which adheres to the international protocols of the WSET, "and Italian wine is the most loved among those imported." "What of Italy are we most passionate about?" adds Vitaly Kovach, a leading figure (a sort of wine guru) of the Ukrainian wine scene, in his fluent Italian, the result of a long period of work in the dining field in Italy, "It's the wealth of grape varieties, styles, and territories that are so many and so very different - although obviously Piedmont and Tuscany are always, together with Prosecco, the great bestsellers." ITALIAN WINERIES READY TO RESTART Even the bell of company representatives rings positively. We asked Gabriele Pezzuto, European export director of the Piedmontese Beni di Batasiolo for a comment. "Perfect organization by Gambero Rosso, the event was important, it was a milestone in this difficult moment. We found an importer, and I'm confident that we will greatly develop this market. Having arrived in the country at such a complex time due to the pandemic had a great impact on Ukrainians. And Gambero Rosso Master classes did the rest." The world of Italian wine, in short, does not want and cannot stop. Gambero Rosso is on the front line side by side with wineries. This was a crucial event, which demonstrates how with the necessary precautions, promotion abroad - as well as being essential for the survival of such companies is still possible. The welcome we received in Kyiv and Ukraine was fantastic. We are ready to face new challenges with the new year.

In 2021, moving towards zero excise duty on wine imports from the EU From 2021, Ukraine should eliminate excise duties on wine imported from Europe. This happens due to the implementation of the EU-Ukraine free trade agreement (Dcfta) in force since 2017. According to the agreement, tariffs that currently range between 0.3 and 0.4 euros should be eliminated for incoming European wine per liter, as announced in recent weeks by Yekaterina Zvereva, development director of Upoa, Ukrainian fresh produce association, in a statement divulged by Russian news agency Interfax. The DCFA agreement features the phasing out of duties on a range of goods within a period of seven years from its signature. – G.A.

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top italian restaurants www.gamberorossointernational.com/restaurants/

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x GamberoRossoInternational

SPONSOR

STORIES

KYIV

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PHOTOGALLERY

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STORIES

FOUR EXPERIENCES WITH THE FOREIGN PRESS TO CELEBRATE VINI D’ITALIA 2021

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To celebrate the 34th edition of Vini d’Italia we invited 7 international journalists from all over the world for four days of high intensity tastings

THE TUSCAN HEART OF SANTA MARGHERITA We are in the heart of the Chianti Classico to celebrate the Winery of the Year: Santa Margherita Gruppo Vinicolo, founded in 1935 by Count Gaetano Marzotto. The first stop is the Wine Museum and the Prosciuttaia in Greve in Chianti, followed by a visit to a city institution: Antica Macelleria Falorni. Dinner is at Vitique Restaurant, for a gourmet experience with chef Andrea Guerra's dishes and a selection of Santa Margherita wines: Ca' del Bosco in Cà Maiol in Lombardy, passing through Kettmeir in Alto Adige, Lamole di Lamole in Chianti Classico and Messa in Sardinia: a ›› line-up of wines at the highest level. The next morning we started with the harvest of the last Sangiovese grapes in the historic estates of Lamole, in the highest part of the Chianti Classico, for wines of crystalline freshness, pure, balsamic, vibrant for the acidity typical of this area, perfect for the table. A character that shines through the vertical of the standard-bearing Chianti Classico, with 6 millesimes tasted, confirming out of the ordinary longevity. We closed the Tuscan experience with a sublime Florentine steak at Il Ristoro di Lamole restaurant. THE SPECIAL AWARDS DINNER The evening before the presentation of the Wine Guide, we met in the heart of Trastevere, in one of the most loved restaurants by international singers and actors visiting the capital: Antica Pesa owned by the Panella family. Editors of the guide, the foreign press and all special award-winning producers were in attendance. We began with bubbles

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of the year, Ballabio's Oltrepò Pavese Dosaggio Zero Cave Privée, and ended with Contini's 1976 Vernaccia di Oristano Antico Gregori, the Meditation Wine of the Year. The wine that surprised international palates the most was Pi Greco by Antonella Lombardo (Winemaker of the Year), a wine produced in very few bottles with Greco di Bianco grapes, for a sapid and pulpy white, slightly spiced, perfect for a plate of cacio e pepe!

Conventi's Collio Sauvignon with lemon tagliolini and baby squid, a dish that alone is worth the trip! And again the surprising pairing of Schioppettino by Borgo Conventi and amberjack tataki: lightly chilled, the Schioppettino is one of the most gastronomic and versatile red wines of Italy. A TRULY ROMAN EXPERIENCE AT COLLEGIO The last dinner with the foreign press could only have been at Collegio, in the heart of Rome. Piazza Capranica is a living room that is worth visiting a priori to immerse oneself in Roman vibes. Collegio is an excellent viaticum to delve even further into a full Capitoline experience. The restaurant of the Santarelli family, originally from Amatrice, offers carefully executed regional recipes, paired with wines produced by their owned winery, Casale del Giglio. Among the most appreciated pairings by the Roman journalists, was a generous carbonara paired with Bellone di Anzio, bouncing between savoury and marine references; followed by gnocchi with a mutton and pork ragout paired with Matidia, made from Cesanese grapes; as well as the combination of Mater matuta––syrah with a balance of petit verdot––paired with the classic Roman-style saltimbocca vela cutlets.

THE SEA BY PASCUCCI, AND THE WINES OF VILLA SANDI AND BORGO CONVENTI Not far from Leonardo da Vinci international airport in Fiumicino, the main Rome airport, food lovers can enjoy some of the best cuisine in Italy, by Gianfranco Pascucci. A seafood cuisine, based on very fresh fish paired with wines by Villa Sandi, a leading company in the world of Prosecco Superiore DOCG and Prosecco DOC, and by Borgo Conventi, from the Collio region. In the presence of 7 foreign journalists, Diva Moretti Polegato and Flavio Geretto talked about their wines paired together with Pascucci's creations. The most popular pairings were the Tuna Ham with Villa Sandi Cartizze, a game of textures and perfect freshness; Borgo

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PHOTOGALLERY

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PHOTOGALLERY

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SURPRISE: COCKTAIL BARS SERVE GOOD FOOD. LET’S INVESTIGATE Italian cocktail bars are starting to be all-round gastronomic destinations. It wasn't always like that. Even when the (now former) new wave of high-level cocktail bars began taking hold in Italy, food was neglected: the focus was on drinking. Now, on the other hand, an increasing number of places are offering a truly interesting and studied gastronomic offer. So much so that they have become very credible for an allencompassing meal: before, after or during your drink

words by Annalisa Zordan – photos by Andrea Di Lorenzo

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AT

the beginning there was food pairing with drinks, then the advent of liquid cuisine... now it's the turn of cocktail bars with kitchens, more and more numerous, more and more satisfying in terms of the gastronomic offer. From Milan to Rome, from Turin to Naples and Palermo, this is a phenomenon that is affecting all of Italy. It's new, or rather it is the arrival in Italy - finally - of a trend that has been already established elsewhere COCKTAIL BAR WITH KITCHENS ABROAD «In London or in the United States people have always eaten in cocktail bars; I think this is due to the fact that culturally there is no precise time to dine, at least not like we do, coming from a rural community in which we have always eaten at the same time», speculates Patrick Pistolesi, a famous Roman bartender and one of the partners of Drink Kong, Rome cocktail bar which, less than a year after its opening, was included in the list of the World's 50 Best Bars, ranking in 82nd place. «In the US it is super common, I also think it's a question of licenses – adds Cristian Bugiada, owner together with Roberto Artusio of cocktail bar with Mexican cuisine La Punta Expendio de Agave, also in Rome – there the sale of food is a requirement for anyone with a license to sell alcoholic beverages.» «Furthermore, the concept of a bar with a kitchen lends itself well to the idea of eating light. It was no coincidence that James Bond dined with a Martini!» In fact, to interpret Patrick's observation, the green olive probably served as caloric intake. From olives to present day, so much water and alcohol has passed under the bridge. «Italy too has a beautiful tradition of bars with kitchens, think Harry's Bar in Venice, or the finger sandwiches in some of the best bars in Turin, but most of these have always focused on that market more focused on the aperitif. Places like these have almost never replaced a classic restaurant.» And certainly cus-

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PAIRINGS LIVE ON THE MOUTHFUL AND NOT ON A FULL MENU I think there are connections between what you drink and what you eat, but the perfect pairing between everything you drink and everything you eat risks being a mere style exercise. I'll tell you more: for me, pairing cannot exist on a complete tasting menu. Take it from me, who right from the start, at Magorabin, proposed pairings that went beyond the universe of wine; or when I opened Casa Mago I put on the menu dishes that could be suitable for Carlotta Linzalata cocktails. A few examples? Carlotta re-edited the Martinez, practically the progenitor of the Martini Cocktail, with J.Berry gin, Dolin rouge, Maraschino and a homemade bitter mix, when she made me taste it I immediately thought how historic dish of mine would be perfect: salmon, burrata and radishes. The taste of the dish is reminiscent of salmon canapes, crème fraîche and pickled gherkins, which James Bond often ate; it's perfect for this cocktail! But strokes of genius or similar ideas cannot always happen, it's the harsh law of food pairing. Marcello Trentini, Magorabin in Turin

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tomers looking for a high level gastronomic proposal would never turn to cocktail bars. ONE OF ITALY’S FIRST COCKTAIL BARS WITH A KITCHEN Then what changed? «For us, when we opened in 2002, proposing some dishes was mainly an economic need, so we covered more time slots: lunch, aperitif, dinner, after dinner,» specifies Edoardo Nono, founder together with Gianluca Chiaruttini of Rita & Cocktails in Milan, «this need was reconciled with our way of seeing things. We have always steered towards quality, whether it was about drinks or food. In the same fashion. Of course, at the beginning, we didn't have a kitchen, so we selected the best cured meats and cheeses, and we did our best with semi-finished products.» Then, with the addition of the kitchen and the stovepipe, the two partners indulged. So Gianluca Chiaruttini went from being a bartender with an interest in cooking to working as a cook (the opposite of what Domenico Carella of newborn Carico in

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Milan did, more about that later). «I set up the service line with a series of menus devoted to comfort food, without focusing on a complete tasting menu, avoiding pasta courses, which are more suited to a traditional restaurant concept. Our aim was to be as international as possible, with meat or fish main courses that also reflected our many journeys in search of flavours, colours and new experiences. I still remember when we returned from China, I literally went crazy, I would have loved to include thousands of dishes inspired by Asia on the menu,» a concept that was taken up years later, in 2018, by another Milanese cocktail bar, Iter, which is backed by an authentic war machine trio – Nicola Scarnera, Flavio Angiolillo and Marco Russo – with active venues such as Mag, 1930 and Barba, equally boasting a handsome food proposal. COCKTAIL BAR WITH KITCHEN AND FOOD PAIRING Speaking of Rita, it was certainly a Milanese forerunner in many respects – «we have always avoided the buffet, despite the fact that in the 2000s in Milan it was definitely in fashion, and we've always had table service» – as Massimo D'Addezio has always been a beacon of hospitality (those who don't remember him at Stravinskij bar of Hotel De Russie in Rome), less inclined to fashions and mainly focused on making the customer feel good and drink well. So much so that when he inaugurated his Chorus Café in 2015, inside the building that houses the Rome concert hall Auditorium della Conciliazione, it came spontaneously – also for reasons of economic sustainability – to combine the cocktail bar with a kitchen, now managed by chef Andrea Sangiuliano. Even earlier, in 2013, D'Addezio – a great protagonist also on our Gambero Rosso Channel – had also inaugurated in Rome in Pigneto with Co.So (which stands for Cocktail Social), also here with a rock gastronomic proposal that paired with the stellar drinks. Yet there have been years in which D’Addezio – and like him many other top

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CARLO CRACCO: «HERE ARE MY TOP 3 PAIRINGS» We asked a great chef like Carlo Cracco – inventor of Carlo e Camilla in Segheria in Milan – what it means to combine cocktails and dishes and how it feels, as a cook, to think of a kitchen serving a bar where people go first and foremost for cocktails…

the percentage of customers who would choose pairings was around 20-25%, today it has doubled also thanks to the constant presence of the bartender who from time to time explains what he does and why he does it. Returning to the question, if I believe in food pairings? I believe in leaving the customer free to choose whether to do so or not.

Is Carlo e Camilla in Segheria a kitchen with a cocktail bar attached, or a cocktail bar with a kitchen? Absolutely a cocktail bar with a kitchen.

Are there rules in food pairing? First of all you need to understand what rules, whether it's the dish or the cocktail. This is decided from time to time based on who has the strongest idea. It sometimes happens that the chef has it, but it also happens that the bartender has it. If, for example, the bar manager Nicola Romiti offers me a whiskey-based cocktail, I certainly won't pair it with sole fish!

It’s now been six years since you opened. What’s changed? When we opened we were in full pre-Expo phase so we got the ball rolling to create a concept that was as international as possible. At the time it seemed like a winning idea and six years later we were right. Of course, at the beginning it was not easy to make the project understood, when people would walk in and see the large social table in the shape of a cross, they would always ask us to be seated in the corner. Then the initial embarrassment passed and they began to understand our concept of a cocktail bar with a kitchen. Was it hard for a chef like Cracco to approach an easier gastronomic proposal? It's like asking a designer who makes haute couture garments if he can also do prêt-à-porter. If a professional knows how to do his job well, he can approach different types of offers. Do you believe in pairing food and cocktails, or are they two trains traveling on parallel tracks? It's a very personal thing, what I can tell you is that at the beginning

raspberries). Melon, almonds, ginger (circular almond cake, almond bavarois, lavender scented melon, white chocolate faux almond, served with melon and ginger extract) paired to Fiesta y Fuego (vodka, white amaro, mango in foil, orange-flavoured salted caramel, creme brulee foam). Please explain. In the first pairing, the dish "leads" because the egg has a longer persistence; in the second, dish and cocktail play in the same league because the sweet and sour onion is persistent just like the rhubarb, which comes from outside Milan therefore harvested in the wild. In the third pairing the drink is enhanced thanks to the white bitter, even if the aromatic ginger emerges. In any case we proceed like this: we taste the dish, we taste the cocktail and then we understand what can be improved, deciding who leads charge and who is in the background. The stimulating thing about pairing with cocktails is that you have many elements to play with, and when you are faced with an important characteristic you go to find that taste, that spice, that marinade that either covers or completes the peculiarity. In conclusion, the pairings almost always compensate or go by similarity, and at the same time there is always an ingredient that cuts through and closes the finish. In the end, it's the final taste that tells you if the reasoning worked or not.

«Pairings almost always compensate or go by similarity, and at the same time there is always an ingredient that cuts through and closes the finish.»

Name three perfect pairings. Grilled egg (soft egg cooked with a technique that brings us back to hints of embers, served with mozzarella di bufala cream, carrot spaghetti, white asparagus, snow peas and fresh peas) paired with Demetra Harvest Moon (Zubrowka, rose decoction and Luisa grass, syrup of dill, lychee sorbet and star anise). Spaghetti with tuna (spaghetti dressed with green tomato sauce, served with tuna sauce, tuna tartare, sweet and sour onion, capers and fennel) paired to Teq-It-Sloe (tequila, sloe gin, rhubarb and raspberry sous-vide, honey agave, Moscato d'Asti, marinated rhubarb and frozen

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bartenders – was against the concept of food pairing. «Let me explain my aversion to food pairing,» d’Addezio anticipates our provocation, «when we started it was premature, it was like buying a saddle without knowing if you would buy a horse or a donkey. Six or seven years ago it was not at all obvious to drink well in Italy. There was still a lot of improvisation in our industry, so adding meat to the fire didn't make much sense. Today things have changed, we've become international, we've started investing and finally Italians are drinking well in many places. The time has finally come to propose a dynamic cuisine, capable of complementing drinks, I'm thinking fresh tomato and basil spaghetti enjoyed with a Margarita, but also of a more classic foie gras escalope paired with a Martini Cocktail (move aside, olives!). In any case, if we propose dishes paired with drinks, we need dynamism, not a suggested pairing» (See box). We can add that what is taking place in this objective growth of the sector is not just the excellent dish to be paired with a signa-

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ture cocktail, but rather the signature cocktail that is in turn paired to a signature dish. DYNAMIC CUISINE AND MOOD All the bartenders we interviewed agree on the concept of dynamic cuisine. «Cocktail bars have now found their own dimension, which certainly goes beyond Spritz with crisps,» observes Pistolesi, «they have started to evolve in line with the evolution of customers themselves. Take, for example, a young professional, aged thirty to forty, who comes to enjoy a cocktail after work. At some point it will be time for dinner and basically there are two alternatives: moving to a restaurant, but this way he dampens the positive vibes (maybe in the meantime he's met an old friend or hooked up with an interesting stranger) plus after dinner he almost certainly will go home to bed; alternatively you stay in the cocktail bar. This is where our kitchen takes over, where folks can eat many small dishes sharing them with a fellow guest, without breaking the harmony of the evening.» Also for Pistolesi it makes no sense offering an obligatory pair-

STORIES

EDIBLE COCKTAIL BARS Milan

Barba Carico Carlo e Camilla in Segheria Iter Rita & Cocktails Dry Milano Le Rouges The Botanical Club The Doping Club

Bologna

Casa Minghetti Nu Lounge Bar Ruggine Oltre

Bassano del Grappa (VI)

Querto

Ferrara

5VSJO

Apelle

Casa Mago Affini

Modena

Spaccio delle Carceri Bisceglie (BT)

Contrabar 'MPSFODF

Sorrento (NA)

Bulli & Balene (Manifattura Tabacchi) Ditta Artigianale La Ménagère Locale Floreal

Dry Martini

Siena

Bottiglieria Salefino

Messina /BQMFT

Archivio Storico

Vicolo 33

3PNF

Blind Pig Carnal Chorus Café Drink Kong Latta La Punta Expendio de Agave Sorpasso

4BOUB $SJTUJOB Eō"TQSPNPOUF 3$

Aspro 1BMFSNP

Bocum

Catania

Fud On

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ing, and in any case the drink still "commands" the pairing (obviously not everyone thinks that way, see box). «If someone orders a Martini Cocktail, I would certainly serve them ravioli with Parmigiano, because it's super umami.» WHAT RULES IN THE PAIRING? Cristian Bugiada agrees on this: it's the drink that guides the pairing. Of course, for them at Punta, dealing mainly with mixed drinks based on tequila and mezcal, the game's easier. «Cocktails will always have a spicy, citrusy and savoury touch, which goes well with Mexican ingredients, from beans to corn.» The reason for this perfect marriage, between agave distillates and Mexican products, is not only part of the organoleptic sphere, but has deeper roots: «Beans and corn are plants that grow in symbiosis with agave, which is why they are often grown in the same soil and that's why when you eat a simple taco with beans and pair it to a shot of tequila, you feel like you're in heaven! These products come from the same soil and have travelled together to reach us, isn't that incredible?». Obviously this is just an example, since La Punta Expendio de Agave, in addition to being a cocktail bar with cuisine, is the best Mexican restaurant in Rome. ANALOGIES BETWEEN BARTENDER AND CHEF «Now that cocktails are leveling up to food, an increasing number of people are looking for the two experiences in one place. It's like winning the lottery,» says Cristian. Considering how nowadays there is not much difference in approach between bartenders and chefs, both try their hand at new ingredients, both educate palates to be sophisticated and enhance flavours. Equally, more and more bartenders apply techniques and tools normally associated with contemporary cuisine, think siphons, sous vide cooking, blast chillers, fermentations – calling them “barchef ” and defining their work as “liquid cuisine.” Speaking of fermentations, it's impossible not to mention two recently opened

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places: Latta in Rome and Carico in Milan. «The concept of Latta stems from the need to bring together two entrepreneurial realities hailing from the world of fermentation and mixology,» explains Alessandro Procoli, one of the masterminds of the joint venture project between Jerry Thomas, Leonardo Di Vincenzo and Paolo Bertani (ex pillars of Birra del Borgo), «and it's clear that in a space like former Mulini Biondi having a gastronomic offer is a primary need. Consider that also for the Jerry Thomas project we often wondered if a food proposal could work, but then we abandoned the idea due to logistical infeasibility and above all because it was distant from the philosophy of Jerry, which from the beginning opened its doors at 10 pm». But the desire to approach the world of cooking remained and as soon as it was possible they made it happen. WHEN THE LINK BETWEEN DRINKS AND CUISINE IS FERMENTED FOOD «I believe that the success of cocktail bars with kitchens is also due to the fact that more and more bartenders have begun to travel and have realised how far the two worlds go hand in hand abroad. Almost everyone, in London, Paris, Berlin but also in Athens, has a food offer and clearly one aligns with the trend. Of course, for us Italians it's a bit more complicated because in pairings it’s the wine that rules, plus it's hard to combine cocktails with our traditional cuisine, simple trattoria fare – can you see old school restaurateurs handling a shaker?! – that's why we decided to aim for a decidedly unconventional offer.» At Latta you can eat bao, club sandwiches, bruschetta, grilled cheese sandwiches, but also actual main courses, all united by the presence of home made fermented products. «The cuisine at Latta is in constant evolution, but what is certain is that tasty dishes with a minimum of fat in them are a requisite to pair with our line of highball drinks,» explains chef Marco Moroni. A line of conduct also followed by Dom Carella, who started out as a cook and then became passionate about

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THE TOP 7 IN THE WORLD MUST VISIT COCKTAIL BARS WITH A KITCHEN AROUND THE WORLD. ADVICE FROM ALESSANDRA GESUELLI (FOOD JOURNALIST) AND TOKYO CERVIGNI (FOOD SELECTOR)

1 Tippling Club in Singapore A pioneer of mixology with cuisine in Singapore and Asia, chef Ryan Clift continues to be a point of reference for his quest for the perfect connections between Asian flavours and cocktails.

2 Vea in Hong Kong On the one hand the creative cuisine of Vicky Chang, on the other the genius of Antonio Lai. On the 29th floor the Lounge is his kingdom, up on the thirtieth floor is the gourmet restaurant, where Chang also offers tasting menus in pairings with cocktails.

3 Eat Me in Bangkok An institution in the city for many years but always interesting and innovative. Thanks to the creativity of Tim Butler, Australian in love

with Thailand for its dishes as well as for the lifestyle. The young and talented Buntanes "Pop" Direkrittikul, for some time a certainty in the bartending scene of the metropolis, creates the cocktails.

4 Untitled in London It's the third brainchild of bartender Tony Conigliaro (after Bar Termini and The Bar With No Name) who, on weekends, hosts Jay Morjaria's restaurant where the chef offers Korean cuisine, or rather Anju dishes, which is the exact Korean term to indicate food consumed with alcohol.

5 The Aviary in Chicago Behind the project is chef Grant Achatz and beverage director Micah Melton, who since 2011 have conquered the city (there's always a

But beyond pairing techniques, whether by contrast or by similarity, whether fat or acid are necessary, whether it's' the bar or the stove to rule, it seems that these cocktail bars with kitchens are finding their beautiful role and their rightful place in Italy, not only in Milan and Rome. And they are a space of freedom, especially for customers who can choose according to their taste and curiosity

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queue outside) both with the kitchen and with cocktails. Just to show you The Aviary's attention to detail, there are over thirty types of ice on the menu.

6 Please Don't Tell in New York You walk in through a telephone booth placed inside Crif Dogs, a hot dog joint in the East Village, but they don't make simple hot dogs at PDT. Inside this historic speakeasy, in fact, the offer includes recipes curated by some of the best chefs in the city, from Jeremiah Stone and Fabian Von Hauske of Contra to Wylie Dufresne.

7 Candelaria in Paris It's both one of the most compelling cocktail bars in Paris (if you're a lover of agave-based liqueurs), and the best Mexican taqueria in town. the world of cocktail bars, in his project Carico (curated together with Lorenzo Ferraboschi). ÂŤEvery two or three days we change the menu, transforming what we find at the market into a liquid and solid form, paying attention to no-waste and a short supply chain. For example, with tomato pulp we make a Bloody Mary and we use the peels in a dish with red prawns from Mazara, which give that right touch of fattiness to the dish.Âť COCKTAIL BARS WITH KITCHEN AND FREEDOM But beyond pairing techniques, whether by contrast or by similarity, whether fat or acid are necessary, whether it's' the bar or the stove to rule, it seems that these cocktail bars with kitchens are finding their beautiful role and their rightful place in Italy,

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The photos of this feature were taken at La Punta Expendio de Agave in Rome. We thank the owners of the cocktail bar with Mexican cuisine, Cristian Bugiada and Roberto Artusio. «In the US it's normal to eat in cocktail bars––explains Cristian Bugiada––the sale of food overseas is a requirement for anyone applying for a license to sell alcoholic beverages»

not only in Milan and Rome. Let's think for example of the Bottiglieria Salefino in Siena, Ruggine or Oltre in Bologna (a shining example in the city was Scarto, which however closed at the beginning of 2020), Manifattura in Florence, or the Archivio Storico in Naples, Bocum in Palermo, or Apelle in Ferrara, opened five years ago in a city that was rather blocked in regards to mixology. «I remember the first evenings in which practically no customers would walk in,» says Matteo Musacci, founder of Apelle together with partner Claudio Bellinello, «but we were stubborn and continued on our way, today I can say, in hindsight and in full post Covid, that we made the right choice. We handed over our knowledge and travel experience to Ferrara, and took our customers by the hand towards a different level proposal, which certainly never contemplated Spritz. And it was good that way because, being neither in Milan nor in Rome, we also have fewer competitors.» Apelle's offer includes

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dishes by chef Martina Mosco, with a past at Antica Osteria Cera and before that in London with Gordon Ramsay, and cocktails by Robert Paul Farcas, with experiences in large hotels both in Italy and abroad. «I used to eat very well and drink badly or, conversely, drink very well and eat pub food. We, on the other hand, have put together two champions to give equal importance to the kitchen and the bar». Following this logic, Matteo does not believe at all in food pairing where «one actor must always be in the foreground compared to the other, for us the complexity of the drinks cannot be paired to the complexity of the dishes, that's why a cocktail as far as I'm concerned should be enjoyed either before or after dinner.» Or at the most, the customer is left free to decide whether to give more importance to one rather than another. And this is the point: freedom. Freedom to sit in a cocktail bar and finish the evening by eating a high-level dish, freedom to sit at a solid table and then conclude

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MY TOP 5 IN ITALY These are my 5 favorite cocktail restaurants in Italy. Internationally I love the Tippling Club in Singapore and the Roca brothers' Celler cocktail list in Girona, Spain.

1 Apelle - Ferrara Mix of local and international cuisine in a young and fun environment 2 Carico - Milan For its contemporary offer 3 Locale - Florence Innovative cuisine accompanying experimental mixology 4 Drink Kong - Rome For its international offer 5 Contrabar - Bisceglie (BT) For the offer that favours the experience of territory Paola Mencarelli, project manager of Florence Cocktail Week

with a damn good cocktail, freedom of a phenomenon that touches well-established proposals such as Dry in Milan, hybrid realities such as Ditta Artigianale in Florence, which was born as a micro coffee roaster and coffee shop, and that has also become a gin bar and restaurant. Or the chefs themselves who have decided to open their own cocktail bars, with cuisine of course, such as Carlo Cracco with his “Carlo and Camilla in Segheria,” Marcello Trentini with “Caso Mago” in Turin, or the new entry Roy Caceres with “Carnal” in Rome. Are people, even in Italy, tired of pigeonholing and labelling any type of experience? Waiting for an answer, let's finally toast to freedom with a good cocktail paired to an excellent gastronomic proposal.

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WEEK OF ITALIAN CUISINE IN THE WORLD: DISCOVERING THE KITCHENS OF ITALY’S HISTORIC RESIDENCES On the occasion of the week of Italian Cuisine in the world, ADSI virtually opened the ancient kitchen of 25 historic Italian residences, the places that have handed down the nation’s regional gastronomic tradition

words by Livia Montagnoli

STORIES

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n the occasion of the week of Italian Cuisine in the world, ADSI virtually opened the ancient kitchen of 25 historic Italian residences, the places that have handed down the nation’s regional gastronomic tradition. DISCOVERING THE ANCIENT KITCHENS OF 25 HISTORIC ITALIAN RESIDENCES THANKS TO ADSI The initiative promoted by Associazione Dimore Storiche Italiane (ADSI) fits into this context, which for the occasion reveals the gastronomic soul of some of the most prestigious and fascinating historic residences in Italy, including villas, castles and noble palaces. More often than you think, these residences have preserved the legacy of historic kitchens, handing down ancient recipes and traditions, but also the atmosphere and furnishings of the rooms that for centuries housed the kitchens of the palace, now largely turned into museums. For the fifth edition of the event,

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therefore, ADSI has chosen to share the story of 25 kitchens housed in as many Italian residences, also through unpublished photographic and video material. In addition, the Association will also share online 40 recipes rooted in the territories in which the residences exist, giving the opportunity to reconstruct a complete and varied picture of the origins of the regional gastronomic traditions of Italy. The goal is to spread the knowledge of this heritage to the Italian public, but above all to make the history of these kitchens and the residences where they are located accessible to a vast international audience. An audience that’s sensitive to discovering the charm of the historic places of Italy, and that’s attracted by our gastronomic culture (for this reason the initiative will also be available online in English and Russian language). THE KITCHENS OF CASTLES, VILLAS AND PALACES The project will illustrate the peculiarities of the palace kitchens, environments that in some cases

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are still functioning, whose operational spirit articulating the spaces is well preserved, according to a rigorous system of contiguous and complementary areas gathered around the room for cooking food (on wood and coal-fired stoves), spaces used for the preservation of products, for the salting of meats, for washing of dishes. But time has also often preserved furnishings and utensils for preparing and cooking food. In this way it will be possible to enter the kitchen of the Castello della Gherardesca, in Castagneto Carducci, where the culinary tradition of the Upper Maremma has been handed down for centuries, including game cooked “al pentolo” and castagnaccio; or virtually visit the kitchen of the Lombard Castle of Chignolo Po, where the cellars and the Orto dei Semplici still survive: already in the middle of the 13th century, Emperor Conrad of Swabia stopped here on a journey through Italy to fight Charles d’Anjou. The documents bear traces of the succulent lunch set up for his stop. The Madonie National Park, on the other hand, has kept the kitchen of the Mongerrate Farm of the Princ-

es of Baucina since the end of the 19th century. In the rural complex, the kitchen was at the service of the princes and their guests, but also provided victuals for the servants, who ate their meals in a large room adjacent to the fire roasting room. The history of the kitchen of the palace in Corigliano Rossano is linked to the name of the Amarelli family (does Calabrian licorice ring a bell?). Linked to Pope Pius VIII is the history of Palazzo Castiglioni, in the Marche region, in the charming village of Cingoli. Moving far and wide across the country, the initiative allows users to touch all the regions of Italy and reach the hidden kitchens under the tutelage of ADSI. For now, this is only possible virtually. While waiting for the historic residences to open to visitors once again.

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THE ISLAND AND ITS WINE. EXPLORATION OF ELBA THROUGH THE ANSONICA GRAPE If asked what Elba's flagship wine is, we would probably answer Aleatico. But there is a white grape variety, Ansonica, which perhaps even better expresses the cultural roots and spirit of this island. It’s now picking up space again in the choices and investments of local winemakers and entrepreneurs. Let's go and discover Elba through this native grape variety

words by Emiliano Gucci - infographics by Alessandro Naldi

STORIES

A

ccording to legend, the islands of the Tuscan archipelago are nothing more than pearls dropped by a goddess, Aphrodite. Which is Venus for the Romans. The divinity came out of the sea to meet Eros, her necklace broke and seven shining stones ended up in the water, remaining afloat and beginning to be populated by animals, birds, flowers, plants, men... And vineyards! The largest of the islands, Elba, also holds an infinite amount of treasures. What is most striking going there and back? Precisely the variety of secluded jewels that each time reveal themselves to those who love to search and discover, whether it's bewitching hidden coves or archaeological finds, mountain views or postcards of sunsets. In the same way, superb vineyards seem to emerge like the tops of green icebergs, stoic and

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imperturbable even in the turmoil of the long summer season, to tell the story of an island that welcomed the grape variety a thousand years before Christ and was planted for a fifth of its 22,000 hectares of surface, in a constant seesaw of coasts and hills from which the over thousand meter altitude of Monte Capanne stand out. In many of these surviving - or rather resurrected - vineyards, Ansonica is still the protagonist today, the grape that most of all, perhaps even more than the famous Aleatico (to which we dedicated an extensive article in the 333rd issue of Gambero Rosso in October 2019), is a mirror of the island's terroir. In Elba since the beginning of time and therefore native by definition, actually going with other names (Inzolia, Ansolla, Ansonaca, Zolla bianca, Uva del Giglio) it is found in different lands kissed by the sea and the sun, especially in Sic-

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ily, where perhaps it landed traveling from Greece, or perhaps from France. With a white berried grape, the cluster is rather unusual for a wine grape, loose and large, and the berry as well is golden yellow, sometimes amber, with thick and crisp skin, pulpy. It grows healthy, tenacious and not prone to mold and disease; the juice has a neutral flavour, some say, but the different interpreters are already confronting the issue and transforming it into wine, offering different answers and interpretations. Giving us an excellent pretext for a taste of the food and wine expressions of Elba, even before its crystal clear waters. ZAMPICATA DI MONTEFABBRELLO In the first rear of Portoferraio, Dimitri Galletti is a standard bearer of the Ansonica. He produces three versions, and one is still made "zampicata nel

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palmento," in the manner of the Etruscans: on the last Monday of September a handful of collaborators, friends and enthusiasts, gathers to crush the grapes in a stone basin, rebuilt on the ancient model. «I wanted to recreate a wine based on the memories of when I was a child, the millstones no longer existed but there was a wooden cage in which you "pawed it" while the juice dripped into the vat.» A wine that tastes of history, of celebration, of conviviality, warm and savoury, with only native yeasts and very few added sulphites, echoes of Mediterranean scrub beyond the yellow fruit. But a modern Ansonica also exists, Sasso di Leva, more delicate yet respectful of tradition, as well as a sweet, persuasive version that goes well with desserts and island cheeses. «All three are vinified in purity, demonstrating how many aro-

mas and flavours it can express if well tended to.» It was Dimitri, who grew up in the shadow of this mountain, who gave the name Montefabbrello to the farm that his family had managed for generations. Aided by Nelly Famà, since 2001 he has restored old vineyards and planted new ones, for a total of 9 hectares, as well as persevered in the production of olive oil, fruit, vegetables, now also offered in an excellent Farmstead Restaurant. And he invested in the cultivation of quality grains, especially Senatore Cappelli, for a 100% Elba pasta that he makes on site, independently: «A healthy, nutritious and tasty product: my pride.» Among the other wines we point out an Elba Rosso Sangiovese Riserva, well structured and elegant, aged two years in tonneaux and as many in the bottle; its name is Bonfiglio and it is «dedi-

1. The "zampicata nel palmento" in the Montefabbrello cellar: Dimitri Galletti and his friends press the grapes with their feet in the ancient way 2. Montefabbrello Winery: the grape harvest In the opening, the vineyards of the Cecilia estate in La Pila in Campo nell'Elba 2

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cated to my grandfather, to whom I owe everything: he is the one who left me this land, as well as the passion to cultivate it.» THE CHIANTI HEART OF STEFANO FARKAS Stefano Farkas' first harvest was instead in Panzano in Chianti, in 1974, in the very Villa Cafaggio founded by his father (of Hungarian origin, whose surname means 'Wolf') which he brought to excellence and to the threshold of 500,000 bottles, «difficult, because at the time the focus on wine was not like now». In 2005, at the height of success, a large brand took over the shares of his partner and Stefano decided to change scenery. He chose a buen retiro on the island of Elba, the green Valle di Lazzaro in Portoferraio: «I could have lived peacefully in retirement, but I wanted to accept the challenge» and by looking him in the face you understand that it could not have been otherwise. A nineteenth-century farmhouse in 3 need of restoration and old terraces

FONTUCCIA: ANSONICA-BASED INCURSION ON GIGLIO ISLAND The company could only be called Fontuccia, like the parcel of soli and sun from which it took its first steps: an enchantment, but also hard work. We landed on the island of Giglio, 21 square kilometers of surface (mostly wild) facing Monte Argentario in the emerald sea with thrilling underwater landscape, plus terracing: dry stone walls on impervious slopes, vineyards removed from the rocks overlooking the sea, «High difficulties and low yields, but extraordinary grapes». Giovanni and Simone Rossi, brothers, «true Giglio natives with the merits and defects of chance», had a completely different job but an uncle led them to a passion for wine. «We started for fun, in 2000, to recover vineyards and rebuild walls», like playing «Risk with parcels of land» that led them to the current five hectares (for 12,000 bottles). Since the 2009 harvest, the first pure Ansonica label, this is the company flagship grape: «It has been on the island since the time of the Etruscans, so much so that it is known as the Giglio

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grape; here more than elsewhere it ripens poor in acidity but rich in minerals, due to the granite nature of the soil and the direct influence of the sea. It rains very little, we have to thin out a lot and coddle each bunch, but we are rewarded by unique, powerful wines, to be drunk fresh but not chilled, for unusual pairings». The Senti Oh! is the beginning of the journey, with short maceration, Caperrosso Senti Oh! remains in contact with the skins for five days and is a cru with scents of eucalyptus and flint, with a brackish note at the end. «It comes from a vineyard of the 1930s, partly ungrafted, the same from which we produce Nantropo’» a sumptuous passito with explosive aromas of citrus and exotic fruit. From the 2019 harvest the Ansonica is also the protagonist of a wine aged in amphora, amber and delicately tannic after 6 months maceration: it's called Cocciuto (hard-headed), a bit like the grape variety and the winemaker need to be, to get the best out of this beautiful land however difficult it may be.

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IN THE BEGINNING IT WAS ANSORIA. ALL THE NAMES (AND PLACES) OF ANSONICA In ancient Italian (16th century) the word ansoria indicated a type of grape, and the same entry is also recorded in the dictionaries of Policarpo Petrocchi (Il Petrocchino of the mid-19th century) and Tommaseo Bellini (1861). The word seems to be of southern origin and is still present in Sicily with the variants of sòria, (n)zòlia, nsolia (a kind of large, sweet grape, with elongated berries); in Calabria: ansòlia, nsuòlia, insòlia, anzulu, ansoliku, ansoria, a kind of white grape; in Sardinia with the names of erba insòlika, arba sòlika (from albus which means white) variety of white-fruit grape; in Tuscany: on the island of Elba with the name of ansòniko, a white grape that makes a wine of the same name; on the island of Giglio, with the names Anzònaka (for the grape) and Anzònako (for the resulting wine). Of all the ways of indicating this grape, ansoria is the most ancient name attested.

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where «paleo raged, as they would say in Chianti: grass on grass on grass, an impenetrable forest.» Five years to fully recover these, eight months with an excavator outside the window, walls that needed rebuilding and vineyards to be replanted; in 2010 the harvest of the new era took place. Today Valle di Lazzaro has about ten hectares of vineyards between property and rent, about 38,000 bottles produced annually. The Ansonica Lazarus offers citrus scents beyond the essence of the sea, a fresh sip of peach, mango and unexpected acidity. It is vinified in purity with maceration at low temperatures, «essential to maintain the cleanliness of the aromas» as well as the flotation phase, the long fermentation. «It's a strange grape, it seems more suitable for the table than for making wine,

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5 LABELS FOR 5 DISHESI ACCORDING TO LA TORRE IN POPULONIA Antonio Ciminelli and his wife Maria Ippoliti - long-time restaurateurs who are passionate about wine - are the owners of Osteria La Torre di Populonia, in the municipality of Piombino, a stone's throw from Elba. «In these four years of work in Tuscany I have had the opportunity to taste different Ansonica - explains Antonio - and I have combined some of these with the dishes made by Maria. I realised that there is no single version of Ansonica: each producer gives it their own interpretation, introducing a distinctive trait, a personalised style into the wine. In short, it is certainly not a standardised wine.» Here are some pairings curated by Antonio and Maria.

1 Ansonica Valle di Lazzaro ’19 - Valle di Lazzaro - Stefano Farkas Portoferraio This wine expresses an aromatic richness of yellow fruit pulp and warm hints of broom, supported by respectable structure. We pair it with our fish soup with the catch of the day, shellfish and molluscs, with spicy Tuscan tomato and crostini.

2 Ansonica Valerius Vinum in Amphora ’17 - Antonio Arrighi Porto Azzurro Interesting interpretation with fermentation and aging in terracotta amphorae with long maceration in contact with the whole skins: citrus notes, aromatic herbs, yellow fruit pulp; all supported by a solid acid scaffolding and an adequate structure. We tried it with the squid stew and mussels from Follonica

3 Ansonica dell’Elba ’19 - Cecilia - Campo nell’Elba Dynamic, sunny wine. The fermentation in white at a controlled temperature enhances the aromatic components of the bouquet with evident hints of peach and citrus. Balanced also in the structure. Paired with our rockfish ravioli in marinara sauce.

4 Ansonica dell’Elba ’19 - Acquabona Portoferraio Classic interpretation of wine from the islands: well expressed vinosity, warm tones in the nuances of the variegated bouquet with spontaneous herbal notes; it has good body and persistence. We pair it with monkfish medallions from the Gulf of Baratti with olives, capers and tomatoes.

5 Ansonica dell’Elba ’19 - Tenuta La Chiusa Portoferraio Version that favours fresh and fruity notes: vinified without the skins, it stands out for its aromatic fragrance with clear hints of tropical fruit and honey; savoury and well-structured. We pair it with red mullet acqua pazza, i.e. with a fresh tomato bath.

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3. Collection of the Ansonica on the island of Giglio, in the Fontuccia estate 4. The suggestive garden where La Chiusa vines, oleanders and maritime pines live, the company of Giuliana Bertozzi Corradi and her family, in Portoferraio in the Magazzini area 5. Valle di Lazzaro: rows of ansonica in the territory of Portoferraio 6. Stefano Farkas, owner of Valle di Lazzaro winery: he arrived in Elba after having sold the family business Villa Cafaggio, in Chianti

ANSONICA DELL’ELBA

it requires intense maturation and maximum attention in preserving its acidity. Making wine is not difficult, but you have to be meticulous, in the vineyard as well as in the cellar.» The production of Farkas is faithful to this axiom, precise but always vibrant wines, take the Lazarus Elba Rosso Doc alone Sangiovese, «harvested three weeks earlier than in Panzano but worked with the usual Chianti method.» A surprising coastal wine, which carries on the narration of the Sangiovese as well as the precious experience of Stefano, a stimulus for the whole Elba wine scene. LA CHIUSA AND ACQUABONA Not far away, Tenuta La Chiusa is a magnificent vision that opens with a villa overlooking the sea with olive trees, palm trees, cypresses and above all a garden-vineyard beyond it, all enclosed by walls in the manner of the French clos. Wine has been produced here for 5 more than four centuries and even Napoleon stayed here twice. An island 6 within the island, elegant and steeped in historical charm, which captivates at first sight. Giuliana Bertozzi Corradi, with her family (their first activity is the production and distribution of animated audiovisuals), took over everything in 2003, carefully restoring and persevering on the path of excellence, both in hospitality and in viticulture. The wines produced by oenologist Fabio Coser are all well calibrated, with an Ansonica that respects the typicality and is mineral, rightly savoury, a pleasant final astringency that predisposes to pairing crustaceans and also certain white meats. Among the new cellar entries we point out an iconic Vermentino in the cru version, the Fabrizia, from slightly overripe grapes, more full-bodied and intense than the snappy basic version. Let's close with the area by moving less than three kilometers away, in the

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ELBA. 10 TABLES RECOMMENDED BY THE WINEMAKERS

STORIES

1 EMANUEL BISTROT PORTOFERRAIO (LI) – S.P. PER L’ENFOLA, 7 0565939003 EMANUEL-RISTORANTE.IT «THE SPECTACLE OF THE SUNSET AND OF THE DISHES, BEAUTIFUL EVEN FOR THE EYES, FRESH FISH AND BEAUTIFUL LABELS».

Osteria del Noce

Cantine Ristoranti

Bitta 20

Salegrosso

Rendez Vous

Emanuel Bistrot

Pepepero

Le Viste

Molo G Osteria Portuale

Valle di Lazzaro

La Chiusa

Montefabbrello

Portoferraio Rio nell’Elba

Da Cipolla

NOVEMBER 2020

Loc. Magazzini

Arrighi

56

Loc. Acquabona

Porto Azzurro

GAMBERO ROSSO

Loc. Schiopparello

Loc. Monte

Capoliveri

La Taverna dei Poeti

10 LA TAVERNA DEI POETI CAPOLIVERI (LI) – VIA ROMA, 14 0565968306 – LATAVERNADEIPOETI.COM «AVANT-GARDE CUISINE, EVEN MEAT-ONLY TASTING MENUS. PASSION AND ATTENTION TO CUSTOMER SERVICE, BEAUTIFUL CELLAR WITH EXCELLENT WINE LIST».

Chiasso dal 1973

9 DA PIERO MARINA DI CAMPO (LI) – VIA GORGONA 3914322831 – @DAPIEROISELBA «MODERN, ELEGANT RESTAURANT WITH A BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF THE GULF. TYPICAL CUISINE WITH A MODERN TWIST. THERE IS ALSO AN EXCELLENT SOMMELIER WHO CAN RECOMMEND THE RIGHT PAIRINGS».

Loc. Valle di Lazzaro

Lacona

Acquabona

7 OSTERIA DEL NOCE MARCIANA (LI) – VIA DELLA MADONNA, 14 0565901284 – OSTERIADELNOCE.COM «IN THE COOL OF MARCIANA, A PLACE OF ELBA AND LIGURIAN TRADITION, BLACK TAGLIOLINI WITH MANTIS SHRIMP AND ASPARAGUS, TUNA TARTARE WITH GREEN APPLE, LIME AND PROSECCO. GOOD WINES, HOMEMADE DESSERTS». 8 DA CIPOLLA RIO NELL’ELBA (LI) – PIAZZA DEL POPOLO, 18 0565943068 – @CIPOLLARIO/ «INFORMAL AND FRIENDLY BAR RESTAURANT, TRADITIONAL RIESE DISHES, INCLUDING TRUFFLE AND CABBAGE SOUP IN THE RIGHT SEASON. FAMILY-RUN, IN THE TOWN SQUARE»..

Marciana Marina

NEAR THE SEA, IN THE NOW FAMOUS

SQUARE WITH THE BARLUME VENUE OF TV SERIES FAME»

Loc. La Pila

PAMPER CUSTOMERS WITH IMPECCABLE INGREDIENTS AND

6 PUBLIUS MARCIANA (LI) – LOC. POGGIO – PIAZZA DEL CASTAGNETO, 11 056599208 RISTORANTEPUBLIUS.IT «IN THE HILLS, WITH A VERANDA OVERLOOKING THE SEA, ROOTS IN THE ELBA CULINARY TRADITION, MORE LAND THAN SEA, CHESTNUT GNOCCHI WITH DUCK RAGU AND WILD BOAR MEAT MORSELS».

Marina di Campo

Chiesina di Lacona

5 RENDEZ VOUS MARCIANA MARINA (LI) P.ZZA DELLA VITTORIA, 1 056599251 – RENDEZVOUSMARCIANAMARINA.IT «PIERO IN THE DINING ROOM, LUCA IN THE KITCHEN ATTENTION TO DETAIL.

Campo nell’Elba

Da Piero

4 SALEGROSSO MARCIANA MARINA (LI) – P.ZZA DELLA VITTORIA, 14 0565996862 @SALEGROSSORISTORANTE «SPECIALISED IN FRESH FISH, INFORMAL BUT CLASSY, ONE STEP AWAY FROM COTONE, ONE OF THE ISLAND'S MOST CHARACTERISTIC HAMLETS. GOOD VALUE FOR MONEY.».

Cecilia

3 LE VISTE PORTOFERRAIO (LI) – SPIAGGIA DELLE VISTE VIA DEL FALCONE – 0565914405 – RISTORANTELEVISTE.COM «ON THE BEACH, NEAR THE HISTORIC CENTER, BREATHTAKING SUNSETS, ORIGINAL MENU THAT VARIES WITH THE SEASON. FRESH FISH, EVEN RAW FISH, CATCH OF THE DAY ALSO OFFERED ISLAND-STYLE, BAKED IN THE OVEN».

Marciana

2 PEPEPERO PORTOFERRAIO (LI) – VIA DELL’AMORE, 48 0565916240 OLMOSTERIA.COM «CONSTANT RELATIONSHIPS WITH BREEDERS, FARMERS, FISHERMEN, LOCAL PRODUCERS FOR ALWAYS FRESH INGREDIENTS. EXCELLENT CUISINE, IN THE DIRECTION OF FINGER FOOD».

ANSONICA DELL’ELBA

7

locality of Acquabona. It's worth mentioning the winery by the same name, that is the wine dream of Milan-natives Marcello Fioretti and Ugo Lucchini, and of the Maremma-native Lorenzo Capitani, pioneers in the reviving Elba viticulture since 1987. Their Elba Ansonica is round and full-bodied, sunny, well-balanced Vermentino enhancing the aromas. OUTSIDE PORTOFERRAIO Leaving Portoferraio, in Porto Azzurro we meet the Arrighi estate, of Elba-native Antonio, which elevates the Ansonica to the champion of the most daring experiments: «It is a unique, extraordinary grape, no other has that same skin and pulp». We have already written about Nesos, the marine wine with clusters dipped into the sea and dried in the sun, which undergoes maceration in

amphorae in the manner of the Greeks of Chios, navigators who stopped in Elba 2,500 years ago. Also noteworthy is the IGT Valerius, «the result of years of study and experience with the Ansonica» also vinified in terracotta made by Artenova di Impruneta, Florence. The Cecilia estate is instead located in La Pila, in the municipality of Campo dell’Elba. It is sui generis by nature, born in 1990 thanks to Giuseppe Camerini, a Milanese writer and artist who applies mathematics to graphic solutions, so much so that his original tassel characterises the most modern and recognisable labels of the Elba scene. «Since 2001 whats started as a hobby has become a business and the focus has been on quality, starting with hiring oenologists Vittorio Fiore and Barbara Tamburini», says his nephew, Lorenzo Signorini, author of the change of course together

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7. The main villa overlooking the sea, part of the spectacular La Chiusa estate, with a walled enclosure in the manner of the French clos: here Napoleon Bonaparte stayed here twice

STORIES

8

with his brother Renato. «For my uncle it was initially not easy, agronomic habits and practices were subverted, but over time he too came to be convinced that approximation cannot be synonymous with quality.» Today there are 10 total hectares, production of 65,000 bottles in crescendo and «as many as 20,000 are Ansonica, the native grape par excellence», continues Lorenzo, «in a modern interpretation, which aims at elegance. It is a grape that grows healthy, has low acidity and intrusive colour, it oxidises quickly, so we believe it's essential to work it at low temperatures, with very short macerations.» The result is a crystalline version, with immediate aromas of yellow and tropical fruit (thanks to a quota of Chardonnay), with hints of herbs, sage, Mediterranean undergrowth. «In my opinion, technology is essential for a wine that has an identity,

but is at the same time contemporary.» This is the company's vocation, see the Oglasa, Syrah in purity for example, «a homage to the island of Montecristo, a vision from my uncle's windows for a grape that baptised me, in my first harvest in South Africa», crucial crossroads in Lorenzo's career. CHIESINA DI LACONA We close with an interesting novelty from the Elba vineyard scene: bottles that have been in circulation for a few months, even though it is a company that has been producing grapes for decades. Filippo Alampi is at the helm, born in Veneto to a Milanese mother and a father from Grosseto, a year of nursery school on Elba (but also one in London), an itinerant training but then stationed in Bagno a Ripoli, hinterland of Florence, where he produced excel-

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lent extra virgin olive oil with Fattoria Ramerino. On the island, in the locality of Lacona, in the municipality of Capoliveri, his family bought a farm in the 1950s, which was later turned over to wine by his father Claudio, an agronomist. «And until 2018 it supported itself in this way, selling grapes to the major wineries in Elba,» says Filippo. «My father worked in cooperation projects abroad and managed it mostly by telephone; when no longer felt up to it we found ourselves at a crossroads, to sell it or change pace, so that the profits could support a different work force.» The second option won and with the 2019 harvest Chiesina di Lacona arrived in wine bars and restaurants, making wine and marketing its own grapes. The name is dedicated to the church of the Madonna della Neve which dominates the 9 hectares of vineyards, the equip-

ANSONICA DELL’ELBA

ment bought (and the cellar is rented, waiting to build their own) from a customer who ceased the business. Among the varieties of grapes produced, on the advice of oenologist Maurizio Saettini, Filippo and Claudio Alampi decided to focus their first efforts on three types of white, including a 100% Ansonica: «As in the mono cultivars that mark our successes with extra virgin olive oil, we focused on the varietal characteristics of the grape, without distorting it or diluting its character.» Short maceration, soft pressing, fermentation in steel and part of the aging in barrique, for a precise and territorial wine, with a juicy and savoury sip, delicate tannins that give persistence. As well as being beautiful, the packaging has a low environmental impact, from the bottle to the cap, the focus is on an environmentally friendly product. It merits our applause, especially considering that the journey has just begun. And the same would be true for an island that continues to wait 9 to be explored.

PARTICULAR AND WITH CHARACTER: YOU EITHER LOVE IT, OR… The Ansonica of Elba is the wine of the sun and the sea: from the sun it extracts its golden yellow colour, full and luminous; from the sea wind it absorbs the great flavour that characterises it: sapidity that accompanies its taste and that is enhanced when associated with the right food. Ansonica is particular and has great personality, if wisely vinified. It is not very fragrant, but it has a great structure because it is rich in pectin; it lacks acidity (which is why it is preferable to drink it slightly more aged), but when harvested at the right time (usually after mid-September, often at the end of the month) it lends great gustatory emotions. Acacia honey accompanies the opening nose, followed by the broom flower that characterises it, in the mouth its saline softness envelops the palate and makes it a perfect companion for raw tuna, white meat, noble fish cooked in the island style. We offer it with tuna in cuttlefish ink and veal sauce, with linguine with lobster and also with Iberian pork capocollo. If we had to find a defect, it's that it's not a ruffian or fashionable wine, and like all great wines, it's one you either love or hate, without compromise. Susy Macchioni, sommelier at La Taverna dei Poeti in Capoliveri

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8. An aerial photo of the vineyards of the Cecilia winery in Campo nell'Elba 9. Chiesina di Lacona: a bunch of ansonica from the vineyards of Filippo and Claudio Alampi who this year decided to vinify their grapes and label them after years of family management during which the clusters were instead transferred to other production establishments

RECIPES

GIUSEPPE GASPERONI BORN IN

AGE

RESIDENT IN

Rimini

30

Verucchio (RN)

RESTAURANT NAME

Osteria del Povero Diavolo RESTAURANT CONTACTS:

Poggio Torriana (RN) via Roma, 30 – 0541675060 osteriapoverodiavolo.it

PRIOR RESTAURANTS

OWNER

Il Piastrino a Pennabilli (RN) Taverna Righi a San Marino Piazza Duomo ad Alba (CN) Casa Zanni a Verucchio (RN)

PARTNER EMPLOYEE SEATS

30

SOUS CHEF

BEST LOVED INGREDIENT

HASHTAGS OF MY CUISINE

Luca Guidi Lorenzo Mattei

Citrus LEAST LOVED INGREDIENT

AGE OF SOUS CHEF

Hard boiled egg

Simplicity, strong and defined flavours, respect for ingredients, digestibility

THE DISH OF A LIFETIME

FAVORITE RESTAURANT ABROAD

28 both KITCHEN BRIGADE

Luca Guidi, Lorenzo Mattei, Carla Zanni WAITSTAFF

Maily Dolci, Angelo ‘N Goran Curtis

El Celler de Can Roca in Girona (Spain)

Rimini Fest by Mauro Uliassi MAESTRO WORSHIPPED

ONE WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS

Mauro Uliassi MOST RESPECTED PEER COLLEAGUE

Alessandro Miocchi

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 1990 by Valentini

SOMMELIER

Luca Farabollini HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF...

Farmer ULTIMO ALBUM SCARICATO

DISHES PRESENTED:

Use Your Illusion dei Guns N’ Roses

Veal sweetbreads, miso, cauliflower and herring Pigeon stuffed cappelletti in porcini broth Rabbit, chicory, black garlic and bergamot Mora romagnola pork cheek, black cabbage and “nobis” sauce

ULTIMO LIBRO LETTO

Gli Eredi della Terra di Ildefonso Falcones

by Paolo Cuccia – photos by Isabella Guidi

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GIUSEPPE GASPERONI - OSTERIA DEL POVERO DIAVOLO

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RECIPES

Veal sweetbreads, miso, cauliflower and herring G TS or 4 veal sweetbreads, cooked 1 cauliflower 100 g clarified butter 100 g heavy cream 100 g milk 50 g miso 2 herring fillets Extra virgin olive oil butter salt pepper smoked herring roe

Soak the herring fillets in milk for two nights.Blend half the cauliflower in a mixer to obtain a sort of "couscous" and steam it for 1 minute. Brown the remaining cauliflower with oil, salt and pepper and cook it down. Blend it with some cooking water. Boil the herring in the milk and the same amount of water and cook for 15 minutes. Blend and push through a strainer. Melt and reduce the miso with the heavy cream, brown the sweetbreads in a pan with plenty of butter. Plate the miso sauce and herring sauce at the base of the dish, add a spoonful of cauliflower cream on one side, a sweetbread, the cauliflower couscous and garnish with the smoked herring roe.

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GIUSEPPE GASPERONI - OSTERIA DEL POVERO DIAVOLO

Pigeon stuffed cappelletti in porcini broth G TS or For the shell 300 g “00” flour 3 egg yolks 1 whole egg For the filling 2 pigeons celery carrot onion rosemary sage garlic white wine Parmigiano Reggiano aged 20 months

For the shell, mix the ingredients without working them too much and let it rest for at least 30 minutes, then roll it out 3 mm thick, and form the cappelletti by placing the filling in the centre and then folding them over. For the filling, brown the pigeons in a saucepan with celery, carrot and onion, deglaze with the white wine, add the aromatics and garlic, and simmer over low heat for at least 2 hours, adding water when needed. Debone the pigeons and pass them through a meat grinder together with the vegetables and cooking juices. Add the grated Parmigiano and put the mixture in a pastry bag. Heat the broth to 60°C, infusing the porcini mushrooms for at least an hour. Boil the cappelletti in boiling water, then place them in the center of the plate and cover them with abundant porcini broth.

For the porcini broth ½ l capon and chicken broth 20 g dried porcini mushrooms

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RECIPES

Rabbit, chicory, black garlic and bergamot G TS or ½ deboned rabbit 1 head of chicory, trimmed 100 g heavy cream 50 g di butter and extra virgin olive oil 50 g brown stock 30 g black garlic 2 regular garlic cloves 2 carrots 1 celery rib 1 onion 1 fresh bergamot and 10 g candied bergamot thyme sage bay leaf

For the rabbit, marinate it overnight with the aromatics, garlic, oil, pepper and grated bergamot zest. Bake in the oven covered with aluminum foil for 90 minutes at 100°C, then brown it (at the end) in a pan with butter, garlic and thyme. For the chicory, blanch the tips and with the rest make a cream by boiling everything for 5 minutes and blending in a mixer with the addition of oil. For the black garlic cream, boil the heavy cream with the same amount of water, add the black garlic and melt it well, reducing everything over low heat for 10 minutes. Decorate the dish with the garlic and chicory cream, then place a piece of rabbit in the centre, daub it with a little brown stock; then lay the chicory leaves lightly sautéed in a pan with oil and salt, finish with a pinch of chopped candied bergamot on the meat.

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Mora romagnola pork cheek, black cabbage and “nobis” sauce G TS or 4 Mora romagnola pork cheeks (or similar heritage pork breed) celery carrot onion bay leaf wine

For the nobis sauce 40 g neutral oil 30 g Dijon mustard 30 g whole grain mustard 30 g rice vinegar 1 egg

In una casseruola mettere le guance con sedano, carota, cipIn a Dutch oven style stewpot put the cheeks with celery, carrot, onion, bay leaf, wine, water, salt and pepper. Bake in the oven at 145°C for about 3 hours until done. For the black cabbage cream, blanch the florets and set them aside. In a saucepan, gently brown the garlic, capers and anchovies and the black cabbage scraps, allow to flavour, then add water and boil until cooked. Blend and push everything through a fine mesh strainer. For the nobis sauce, boil the egg for 3 minutes, cool it, shell it in a bowl, combine all the other ingredients and beat well with a whisk to emulsify everything. Put the black cabbage cream and the nobis sauce at the base of the dish, lay the pork cheek with its cooking juices, form a nest with the cabbage leaves and place it next to the meat.

For the black kale cream 1 head of Tuscan kale, cleaned 2 anchovies 10 capers, soaked to remove salt garlic salt pepper Extra virgin olive oil

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GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Chiara Buosi, Maria Victoria Santiago, Simona Picchiarelli CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Gianluca Atzeni, Nicola Frasson, Emiliano Gucci, Paola Mencarelli, Livia Montagnoli Marco Sabellico, Loredana Sottile, Annalisa Zordan PHOTOGRAPHS Andrea Di Lorenzo GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia Advertising Class PubblicitĂ SpA Milano, Via Marco Burigozzo, 8 - tel. 02 58219522 For commercial enquiries: mprestileo@class.it Advertising director Paola Persi email: ufficio.pubblicita@gamberorosso.it

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