WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
Tre Bicchieri Backstage. All the secrets of Vini d’Italia 2021 guide THE WEEK OF ITALIAN CUISINE IN THE WORLD
FRANCESCO SODANO SIGNATURE DISHES
year 22 - number 143 - october 2020 - gamberorosso.it
SOMMARIO WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
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Editorial
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News
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Wine of the Month
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Seasonal Cocktail
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My Export
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The Week of Italian Cuisine in the World
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Vini d’Italia 2021. Excellence and trends of a record issue guide
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Great chefs: Francesco sodano. Il faro di Capo d’Orso
Tre Bicchieri Backstage. All the secrets of Vini d’Italia 2021 guide THE WEEK OF ITALIAN CUISINE IN THE WORLD
FRANCESCO SODANO SIGNATURE DISHES
year 22 - number 143 - october 2020 - gamberorosso.it
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The young people’s palate Natural wine inflames discussions among wine lovers. Just like when it comes to politics. On the left there are those who make their way of drinking an ideological choice, a choice of life, of vision of the environment. On the right those who stick more to practical reason, to technique, to wine as a pleasure to be tasted and analysed in the glass. A mediation is virtually impossible. In France, in recent months, a first formal definition of natural wine has been reached with great difficulty, while a few weeks ago the European Union Commission rejected the wording of natural wine on labels because it could be misleading for the consumer. And certainly many wine shops, traders and producers continue to ride a trend that is not yet regulated and increasingly widespread worldwide. What is natural wine? First of all, it’s an idea and to this precisely it owes its strength. On the theoretical level, natural wine is a wine made from organic or biodynamic grapes, fermented with native yeasts and vinified without additives with a minimum dose of sulfites. The rules are wide, interpretations are maximal. But the most striking fact is that the difference between right and left, between lovers of natural wine and detractors, is above all determined by age. The generation gap is increasingly clear, the references of taste are different, different aspects are appreciated. Those who love natural wine are young, they were not trained on the great Bordeaux, they do not necessarily go in search of balance and elegance, but they want acid tension. freshness and drinkability, they often demonise the use of oak. The palate is set on other criteria, also considering that today in general we eat much drier food, with much less sugar, the dishes are less rich, the desserts are often not very sweet, if not acidic, as is increasingly happening in cities like Copenhagen or San Francisco. Not surprisingly these are some of the world capitals of natural wine. Based on the age of the sommelier, we are able to understand what type of wine list we will have in front of us. And if he is young and donning a large beard, we won’t even need to browse the list. In short, we are faced with increasingly different palates and references, the thrust of sustainability and attention to what we eat and drink sits somewhere in the middle, which fortunately is becoming a real mission for the new generations. The difference in taste between professors, technicians, more mature sommeliers and those who are now entering the world of wine has never been so clear. At Gambero Rosso we are fortunate to have a complete team, different in age and extraction. We see the fruit of this in Vini d’Italia 2021, hot off the press and in a few weeks also available in its English version. - Lorenzo Ruggeri
GAMBERO ROSSO
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SEPTEMBER 2020
NEWS
Time for olive harvest. Numbers and ideas on this vintage
The enclave of Italian artisan wine in Paris opened by a young Tuscan chef
The production of Italian extra virgin olive oil plummets but the quality of one of the symbolic products of Made in Italy remains excellent. This is what emerges from the survey conducted by the market observers of Cia-Agricoltori Italiani, Italia Olivicola and Aifo-Associazione Italiana Frantoiani Oleari, which photographs Italian olive oil split in two, with production in the South in sharp decline unlike the clear recovery, compared to last year, of the central and northern regions:
A project dedicated (also) to Italian wines in the homeland of French wine. But more broadly, an idea to make wine culture accessible to everyone, adding a new piece to the Dilia project, born in 2015 in Paris. Behind the project, in a city like Paris, like all European capitals, that’s experiencing months of great uncertainty to contain the health emergency, is Michele Farnesi, a young Tuscan chef who has found in the city of lights the ideal habitat to express his idea of cuisine. Unruly, instinctive, but always very enjoyable. With Mirko Favalli, sommelier and his right-hand man, Farnesi started Dilia La Cave a few weeks ago. We are in the 20th arrondissement, the Menimontant quadrilateral, and La Cave is an old-fashioned wine shop, with no bar or kitchen service, which however boasts a careful selection of labels from small French and Italian producers (many so far unavailable in the city). The goal of reaching 250 references. And there’s a little gem: the aging in the cellar of selected bottles, to offer wine connoisseurs and professionals labels with 4 or 5 years on the shelf. Talk about looking beyond the obstacle.
-36% for the current campaign just over 235,000 tons of extra virgin
olive oil produced (compared to over 366,000 tons last season) Production by region:
-51% in Puglia,
an evident decline, still affected by the collapse of Salento plagued by Xylella (but the region remains the olive lung of Italy, with 44% of total national production, followed by Sicily and Calabria)
+1727% in Lombardy, going from pro-
ducing 123 tons of extra virgin olive oil to 2,248 tons estimated for this year (in all central and northern regions, production increases, thanks to the positive climate during the flowering period and the contained pest attacks)
Good quality
“The quality of our olive oil will be excellent but we’ll have to keep watch on pests with capillary territory checks – explained President of Aifo, Piero Gonnelli. “We are still a long way away from fully satisfying the needs of Italian consumers; and we’ll have to work on this in the coming months in synergy with all the players in the supply chain.”
– Paolo Cuccia
dilialacave.fr
The energy bar sold in pastry shops. An idea by the great pastry chef Paolo Sacchetti How can an energy bar be tasty and satisfying? Paolo Sacchetti and his son Andrea succeeded in one of the most renowned pastry shops in Italy, Nuovo Mondo, in Prato. The enterprise is worthy of a great master who interprets his profession with modernity. So here is Energ-Eat, a portable snack for a boost for those who take it with them, but also a delicious snack. The idea is a practical, single-portion chocolate covered snack, rich in vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, with the right amount of fiber. And above all good, made with passion fruit, quinoa, sunflower seeds - all highly antioxidant, energetic and healthy products - covered with a milk chocolate and hazelnut glaze. How many would like to munch on one right now?
pasticcerianuovomondo.com
GAMBERO ROSSO
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OCTOBER 2020
NEWS
Massimo Bottura named UN Ambassador Yet another recognition for the work done by Massimo Bottura beyond the walls of the Osteria Francescana is perhaps the most prestigious certificate of esteem for the humanitarian commitment of the Modenese chef in recent years. On the occasion of the first International Day against food waste, on 29 September, Bottura was appointed Goodwill Ambassador by the UN, “to continue to fight against the global issue of food waste.” But the investiture also comes due to the role played during the first months of the pandemic and lockdown, to counteract social isolation through his Kitchen Quarantine web series, “which encouraged people to look for the invisible potential in each ingredient, inviting them to enjoy the unexpected beauty in everyday life.” Recognizing this role to the chef is a way to reaffirm that a change of vision can start at home, in our kitchens, where everyone can make their own contribution to make a difference in the fight
against waste. On his part, with his Refettorio refectories in disadvantaged countries, Food for Soul has in recent years saved more than 125 tons of “imperfect” food, otherwise destined for pulping, to feed the most vulnerable people on the margins of society: “I thank the United Nations for this incredible opportunity and I will do everything to continue on this path, because as J. Beuys once said ‘We Are the Revolution’.”
Contemporary bakeries on the rise. From Rome to Puglia From artisan bakery to contemporary bread bakery, without losing the genuine approach that has guided the evolution of the Paneria project thus far. Paneria Casa Madre takes shape on the outskirts of Rome, in a town notoriously linked to traditional bread baking, yet another confirmation of the Italian growth of contemporary baking, often associated with coffee and restaurant service. This is exactly what happens in the Lariano center, which is an operational laboratory for implementing production (Paneria already boasts three branches, in Velletri, Genzano and Rome), but also a place for refreshments. At breakfast, there’s the beautiful coffee roaster started in collaboration with Fantini in Pomezia and the traditional and international pastry proposals. For lunch there are homemade canteen style proposals; but also for a snack and an aperitif, before hitting the pizzeria for dinner. Meals may start with fried foods that pay homage to local tradi-
tion, continuing with a pizza menu: classic or dedicated to local products, such as the “Roma-L’Aquila,” with a base of Romanesco, knife-chopped L’Aquila sausage, cream of pecorino romano, and Avezzano potato chips. Excellent pit stop during a trip to the gates of Rome. Meanwhile, in Conversano, Francesco Colella inaugurates Spacciagrani. About thirty kilometers from Bari, the young baker, who trained in France, home of the paysan boulanger, brings a breath of fresh air to Puglia (such as his 100% rye bread), without neglecting local ingredients and specialties. But there is also pizza baked in a pan, for lunch, snack or dinner (closes at 20.30). And there is no shortage of panzerotti and focaccia pugliese.
paneria.eu spacciagrani.it
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OCTOBER 2020
NEWS
WINE OF THE MONTH
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Solàrea 2018 AGRIVERDE Via Stortini 32/a 66020 Caldari di Ortona (Chieti) www.agriverde.it Average retail price: 16 euros
Our Wine of the Month is a joyful white from Abruzzo. Deep historical roots and a gaze fixed on the future: these are Agriverde’s defining characteristics. Founded by the Di Carlo family in the first half of the nineteenth century, the turning point came under Giannicola, who in the mid-1980s felt that the future of his winery was with organic management. Among the first Italian producers to adopt agro-compatible protocols, both in terms of cultivation and their relais / spa, today the Di Carlo family avail themselves of vineyards in the municipalities of Caldari, Ortona, Rogatti, Frisa and Crecchio, on the Teatine Hills. Do not miss the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. The 2018 version put in a great performance, exhibiting a profile of yellow fruit with elegant mineral strokes. In the mouth it finds flavor on a racy and supple palate of great energy. The finish is lively, spicy, with typical hints of almond and a more close-knit tannic weave. Right now is singing in the glass but it has a bright future ahead. Food pairings? Try with a slow roasted chicken with fresh Meditarranean scrubs and a lemon twist.
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OCTOBER 2020
SPIRITS
SEASONAL SEASONAL COCKTAIL COCKTAIL byPaola Paola Mencarelli Mencarelli by
WOOD IN THE AIR Leonardo Filippini 2,5 cl Select Aperitivo infused with apple and basil 2 cl Port infused with Pomegranate 3 cl Hennessy VSOP Cognac 2 dash Orange Blossom Tincture
Glass: Old Fashioned Technique: Stir and Strain in Rock Glass Garnish: Fresh basil
�T
he month of October has always been one of my favorites. I love autumn, with its colours, its intense scents of chestnuts and burnt wood in the air, and memories of cool late summer evenings. I tried to bring all these nuances into a very intense drink with seasonal fruit and a small note of freshness, almost like a Negroni but richer and fuller. Pomegranate, which gives roundness to the primary flavour of the drink, goes well with Port, while apple and basil pair with Select Aperitif to counterbalance acidity and freshness. Everything is ennobled by the aromatic intensity of cognac."
BARTENDER: Born in Pisa in 1993, Leonardo Filippini grew up with two great passions: music and the world of hospitality, from cookery to beverage. He approached mixology at age 19, working in a cocktail bar in his city. But he immediately felt the need to gain experience abroad. The destination was London, where he arrived at Sketch, a Michelin star French cuisine restaurant in the Mayfair district, initially as a barback then as junior bartender. In September 2017, the big opportunity: he was hired at the Beaufort Bar of the Savoy Hotel, an icon of London hotel mixology, together with the more famous American Bar. From barback to lounge, and finally Senior Bartender. At the beginning of 2020 he returned to Italy, with an important background and ready for new experiences.
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OCTOBER 2020
NEWS
MY EXPORT Giovanni Luigi Brumat – Cantina Toblino 1 What is the percentage of exports on the company total and in which countries is your business concentrated? Cantina Toblino is a very special social cooperative. In addition to over 600 winegrowers and just under 850 hectares of vineyards, it controls a 40-hectare farm on the grounds of the former bishop of Trento’s canteen: Toblino Srl. We are very strong on the Italian market, but abroad we’re growing, currently between 10-15% of our income. The most interesting markets are the European ones, primarily the UK, even if central and northern Europe have always been attracted to our wines. There’s been a strong interest in Canada recently.
2 How have exports changed during and after lockdown? Exports have had some difficulties, however since May we have opened new markets and consolidated some already existing ones. I would say that at the moment, sales are doing better in countries where there is or has been more attention in containing the pandemic, such as Canada.
3 How’s the bureaucracy? Bureaucracy is never easy, especially in a period of change like this. Here’s an example. Today the UK is a thriving market for Italian wine and for us as Cantina Toblino, but what would happen if Brexit ended with a No Deal? We don’t know yet, it could be good or less so.
4 Please share an anecdote related to your experiences abroad... I’ll tell you a positive anecdote that brings hope. Just before the lockdown, my last trip abroad was in London at the beginning of February 2020, an event organized by Gambero Rosso to inform the British public about the Tre Bicchieri awards and the best Italian wines of 2020. An extraordinary event that allowed me to meet sommeliers, journalists, importers, enthusiasts and to taste our wines with them, including Vino Santo 2003, which was then awarded with the Tre Bicchieri special award for Best Sweet Wine of 2019 according to Gambero Rosso). Introducing the small Valle dei Laghi, Nosiola and Vino Santo together with Gambero Rosso in London was truly fantastic!. Cantina Toblino | Madruzzo | Trento | www. toblino.it
GAMBERO ROSSO
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OCTOBER 2020
GAMBERO ROSSO X MONTELVINI
From the heart of Asolo comes the Prosecco that brings value to the Italian territory Alberto and Sarah Serena, the second generation, hold the reins of the Montelvini Group, a Venetian company founded by their father Armando (who continues to mentor them) in the late 1960s. At the core of the project is Prosecco, with a production whose top line refers to the territory of Asolo. A very dynamic winery on the Italian scene, based in the heart of the Asolo Montello Docg. The winemaking history began 139 years ago when the Serena family with stubbornness started producing quality wines: keyword “innovation,” to make greatly pleasurable wines. And in 2017 a new sparkling process started to enhance and preserve the typical characteristics of Asolo Prosecco Superiore: a vinification protocol that allows to control and minimize the steps to bring out even more the characteristics of longevity, flavour and olfactory elegance, while reducing the quality of added sulphites. The Serena family boasts over a century of history in the world of wine. The first entre-
preneurial turning point took COMPANY SNAPSHOT place in 1968 when Armando Serena began producing auTurnover in 2019: tonomously: Montelvini was Employees: born, which over time evolved and grew to become one of Bottles: the reference companies in the Italian bubbles scene. ToProperty: day the management of the winery is entrusted to the : Le Zuitere (near the main HQ), children: Alberto is the CEO, Fontana Masorin (at 300 m. on Montello), Sarah leads the AdministraPresa IX (at the foot of Montello) tive and Production Management. The company logo is Export: an owl, because the winery’s 29,9% Centrol Europe location is in the Zuitere - or 22,2% Eastern Europae “Land of the owls” in dialect. The Serena family is in con11,7% Northern Europe stant ferment and promotes 21% North America projects that demonstrate the 14,7% Asia (of which 10,3% Japan) strong bond with the land of origin. In 2017 “The Rediscovered Vineyard” was born: the recovery creation of an ad hoc working group, of an ancient vineyard in the historic a real team of professionals includcentre of Asolo, with maximum ating a landscape architect, a univertention to the environment and the sity professor, a historian, municipal delicate balance between human institutions and viticulture experts. actions and landscape. Hence the Along this line, Montelvini is also en-
26,5 million euro 45 6,6 million/year 35 hectares
3 estates
7,4 million euro
1
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OCTOBER 2O2O
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GAMBERO ROSSO X MONTELVINI
1. The Asolo di Montelvini vineyard: from here comes Prosecco Docg on lees paired with the music by Morricone during Milan Wine Week 2. A bunch of Glera grapes in Venegazzù 3. The “Vigneto Ritrovato”, or “Rediscovered Vineyard” in the heart of Asolo 4. Alberto Serena 3
gaged in a new initiative in support of FAI entity with the aim of creating a major protection project that is also an ambitious cultural challenge: to make Italy a more beautiful place to live, visit and discover. In addition, the Serena family protects the ecosystem and protects biodiversity in all production processes, limiting energy consumption and land use, and by the same token protecting consumers. During the next Milan Wine
Week Montelvini, which has recently renewed its support for FAI as a Corporate Golden Donor, on October 7 will make available at partner venues a series of free tickets that will allow owners to visit some assets for free of the FAI environment fund. However, Montelvini’s commitment to safeguarding the Italian artistic and natural heritage does not end here: during Milan Wine Week, a percentage of revenues from the
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sale of the bottles of Asolo Docg will be donated to “Remember to save Italy,” a fundraiser launched by FAI and intended to support institutional activities for the protection and value of the Italian cultural and landscape heritage. A further gesture and concrete commitment of Montelvini in favour of art, culture and landscape protection, to make Italy a more beautiful place to live, visit and discover.
Zuitèr, the new red by Montelvini Le Zuitèr Venegazzù was born in the Montelvini vineyards, within the Zuitère estate. Venegazzù, toponym of the place where the company was born, derives from the word ‘vignazui’ which means winemakers. Obtained from cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes, the name of the wine contains the dialect word indicating the term for ‘owl’ (zuita) that populates the “red soils,” rich in iron and clay, and which gives its name to the lands of the Serena family in Venegazzù. The wine offers intense and persistent nuances with clear notes of small black fruits; notes of sweet and balsamic spices emerge in progression. On the palate - where the balsamic spiciness returns, with notes of licorice and cocoa that are finely integrated with the tannic matrix - it is enveloping and of considerable length.
Montelvini - Volpago del Montello (Tv) - fraz. Venegazzù - via Cal Trevigiana, 51
04238777 - montelvini.it
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OCTOBER 2O2O
EVENTS
THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET AT THE CORE OF THE WEEK OF ITALIAN CUISINE IN THE WORLD by Lorenzo Ruggeri Preparations are underway for the fifth edition of the Week of Italian Cuisine in the World. The Italian Government promotion campaign will be broadcast from 23 to 29 November, for a week of meetings, including virtual ones, which will see the value of post-Covid nutrition as the protagonist: the Mediterranean Diet as a healthy and sustainable lifestyle, a defense tool against the possibility of getting sick. As a reminder, the Mediterranean diet is a nutritional model and a lifestyle inspired by the
habits of the European countries of the Mediterranean basin, including Italy, created in the 1950s. The main ingredients of this diet are: fruit and vegetables, whole grains, olive oil, wine; but also fish (mainly oily), white meats, dairy products and eggs. The discovery of the Mediterranean diet is due to Ancel Keys, an American biologist and physiologist who lived for over forty years in Pioppi, Cilento, testing theories on the link between the eating habits of local populations and the low
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OCTOBER 2020
incidence of cardiovascular diseases. Gambero Rosso is the official partner of the event and there are many events scheduled for those days. Among the many, we highlight the appointment with the Top Italian Restaurants guide on the 24th. Special prizes 2021 will be announced, the result of an extremely difficult year but which saw Italian dining around the world as resilient, capable of new formats adapted to the circumstances of the moment. A lively cuisine, growing both on a technical lev-
WORLDTOUR
el, with many young chefs who have left Italy to get involved and innovate, and on those of raw materials and ingredients, with an ever-increasing attention
to products of excellence from certified and guaranteed origins. The Italian restaurants in the world that have distinguished themselves in the last 12
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OCTOBER 2020
months will thus be crowned, from the restaurant of the year, to the pizzeria of the year, the wine list, the chef of the year and other surprises... ď ś
GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO PROSECCO DOC
It’s Prosecco Rosé time. The new Italian wine bet on pink bubbles After much talk, the time has come for Prosecco rosé, with the regular grape variety of the appellation i.e. Glera and a percentage of Pinot Noir lending colour and structure. The type was included last August within the DOC Prosecco production specification, now it’s time for the first labelled bottles to hit the market. Prosecco DOC Rosé is produced in the Brut Nature, Extra Brut, Brut and Extra Dry versions, the Dry and Demi-sec dosages are excluded. As
for the grapes, Glera is confirmed as the great protagonist, while Pinot Noir can be included in the blend with between 10% and 15%. Obviously the production method does not change, the famous Martinotti or Italian method which involves fermentation in an autoclave tank for a minimum of 60 days. The vintage is always indicated on the label, with the obligation to use a minimum of 85% of the grapes of the vintage. The first estimate of the Consortium is about 20 million bottles. There is great curiosity
around the tasting to see how much the contribution of Pinot Noir will lend on a red fruit level and especially in terms of texture in the mouth. “The market’s responses to the announcement of the onset of Prosecco Rosé were enthusiastic to the point that the vast majority of the bottles were immediately reserved. Domestic consumption responded well, but the greatest satisfactions are expected from international markets such as North American, British and Northern European,” 1
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GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO PROSECCO DOC
1. Prosecco DOC Rosé 2. Autumn in the vineyards 3. Institutional Prosecco DOC of the Consortium
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commented Stefano Zanette, President of the Prosecco DOC Consortium. The lever of the new category? “The Prosecco DOC Rosé project was born as the result of approximately three years of work in which we evaluated every aspect. This initiative regulates a situation that in fact already existed: there were many rosé labels already made in the past by our wineries that only now can bear the name Prosecco, confirming the close link with the territory of origin.
A survey we commissioned in various countries showed that many consumers were convinced that the rosé type had existed for some time, and several of them were even convinced that they had drunk it. So, given the historical reasons of the area and given the dynamics of the market, we decided to fill this space, bringing value to our productions with the DOC appellation for the benefit of our producers and especially of our consumers,” he concluded.
Consorzio di Tutela della Denominazione di Origine Controllata Prosecco
Piazza Filodrammatici, 3 - 31100 Treviso +39 0422 1572383 - www.prosecco.wine
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OCTOBER 2O2O
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It’s easy to predict that even the rosé version of the Sparkling wine from Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Veneto regions will have no difficulty in exploiting the wave of success of the traditional version. The actual production of Prosecco Rosé counts 20 millions bottles, while the real results are expected for 2021, when, according to the forecasts of the Consortium, the offer of Prosecco Rosé will amount between 40 and 50 million bottles. Numbers that would also change the world map.
VINI D’ITALIA 2021. EXCELLENCE AND TRENDS OF A RECORD ISSUE GUIDE This dated 2021, just released, is the most substantial guide to Italian wines in history. The most chock full with excellence compared to all past editions, from 1988 to date. Over 46,000 wines were tasted by several commissions, in the regions and then in Rome for the finals. The highest number of Tre Bicchieri ever assigned and many Due Bicchieri Rossi, which by a hair didn't make the podium. The story of a great collective work, unique in its kind
words by Nino Aiello, Giuseppe Carrus, Gianni Fabrizio, Nicola Frasson, Massimo Lanza, William Pregentelli, Lorenzo Ruggeri, Marco Sabellico e Paolo Zaccaria illustrations by Gaia Niola
STORIES
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of wineries reviewed to the stellar figure of 2,645, over 100 more than last year. An unthinkable result 34 years ago when the first issue was rolled out with 465 wineries and about 1,400 wines tasted. In this edition readers will find 24,638 wines evaluated. We never would have believed this during the months of lockdown, when we wondered about the actual possibility of producing the 2021 issue. So in short, it's for a good reason if around the world Vini d’Italia is defined as "The Italian Wine Bible." Our Guide is translated every year into English, German, Chinese and Japanese, and is an indispensable tool for enthusiasts and professional operators from all over the world. The merit of this success? Undoubtedly goes to a team of passionate and expert tasters who dedicate weeks every year to the tasting (strictly blind) of thousands of samples in every part of Italy. Over sixty people that we have selected over the years for their competence and reliability, which have been extensively tested in the field. After our tastings, condensed this year in just over two months, we were still able to draw a picture of consistent and objective Italian oenology. The final tastings - in which 2,300 wines were involved - gave 
021, the Guide to Records. In a year characterised by difficult (if not dramatic) tensions that shook - and continue to shake - the world, and consequently also the world of wine, the Italian wine sector and the team of passionate tasters who are the fulcrum of Vini d'Italia - the Wine Guide we have been publishing since 1988 - responded in an exemplary manner. It is the best way to witness the extraordinary vitality of Italian wine which confirms itself as a world leader in exports even in this difficult year 2020. First of all we tasted many more wines than in previous editions: more or less we have grown by 2,000. This means that our Guide is experienced by the world of production as an indispensable support tool. Tasting over 46,000 wines was an incredible undertaking, if we consider the complexity of the Italian panorama, from the island of Pantelleria facing Africa to the valleys of the Canton Ticino (which, despite being in Switzerland, is included in the Guide) plus the conditions in which we had to operate. So here's another record: number of pages, which after the indispensable increase in foliation now reaches 1,056. All this has brought the total number
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OCTOBER 2020
VINI D’ITALIA 2021
VINI D'ITALIA 2021 IN FIGURES
GAMBERO ROSSO
Gambero Rosso
2021
VINI d’Italia
2645 PRODUTTORI 24638 VINI
PERIODICITÀ ANNUALE
us the spectacular result of 467 wines awarded with the legendary Tre Bicchieri recognition. Over 1,800 wines that ranked very close to the winners (winning Due Bicchieri Rossi), and in the case of many wineries (we only award one wine per cellar), they are worth as much as the ones on the podium. In a year like this troubled 2020, this is truly a record, which has even more important value. It's true that on our way we have found beautiful and even more beautiful vintages, such as 2015 in Montalcino, for example, or 2016 in Barolo. But it's equally true that the Italian wine world is thriving in quantity and quality, and this 1% of great wines that we award out of the total of those evaluated is the crown jewels, the spearhead, of an oenology that does not fear comparison on a global scale. But perhaps the best way to fully understand our philosophy, our vision of the wine world, where readers will see small artisan productions vinified in amphorae awarded side by side prestigious best-sellers on the international market, is to examine the Special Awards, which this year have the new addition of the Cooperative Winery of the Year award, thus becoming twelve in total.
46,000 wines tasted 2,645 wineries reviewed +100 than 2020 24,638 wines evaluated 2,300 wines tasted in the finals 467 Tre Bicchieri 1,800 Due Bicchieri Rossi 12 Special Awards 2015 Best harvest in Tuscany 2016 Best harvest in Barolo
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467 TRE BICCHIERI 126 TRE BICCHIERI VERDI
80 TRE BICCHIERI SOTTO I 15 EURO
Vini d’Italia 2021 del Gambero Rosso pp. 1.056 price 30 euro english edition available from december
VINI D’ITALIA 2021
WINERY OF THE YEAR GRUPPO SANTA MARGHERITA (Ca’ del Bosco, Cà Maiol, Kettmeir, Lamole di Lamole, Mesa) QUALITY IN EVERY SINGLE DETAIL Selezione Vigneto di Campolungo '16. Ca' Maiol, winery in Desenzano del Garda (one of the group's latest acquisitions) presents us with another excellent version of the Lugana Riserva Fabio Contato. But Tre Bicchieri also come from South Tyrol, thanks to a sparkling wine of great finesse, the Extra Brut Metodo Classico 1919 Riserva '14. Finally, a very high level range for the Mesa winery, a Sardinian company that joined the group in 2017. An exceptional level therefore for all the vineyards and quality that is properly followed by marketing, commercial, communication and environmental sustainability, themes addressed in every reality that Santa Margherita manages. Results that have put judges all in agreement. For us it is the Winery of the Year.
Much more than a winery, Santa Margherita is one of the great groups of Italian wine. Founded in 1935 by Gaetano Marzotto, it has constantly expanded, made targeted investments, grown in the name of managerial efficiency with a global vision that's seen continuous expansion. Santa Margherita currently owns important and prestigious companies throughout the country and another import company based in Miami. Ca' del Bosco needs no introduction: in Franciacorta it is a true institution. This year the Guide rewards the fantastic Franciacorta Dosage Zéro Vintage Collection Noir thus winning its 45th Tre Bicchieri from the first year of publication. A true record. The Tuscan team, Lamole di Lamole, is at the top with the Chianti Classico Gran
COOPERATIVE WINERY OF THE YEAR SAN MICHELE APPIANO A MODEL THAT IS INCREASINGLY FOLLOWED AND IMITATED Appiano company, step by step developed a new way of producing, which allowed the winery to compete with the best. Wines such as Sauvignon Sanct Valentin in the 90s or Appius in the last decade represent a reference point for the whole world of cooperation.
If acknowledging that Cooperative Wineries have contributed in a decisive way in supporting the agricultural world, especially in the second half of the previous century, it should also be stressed that unfortunately these realities too many times have been limited to managing the quantitative aspect of production, staying on the market more for commercial reasons than for the recognition of the quality offered. Cantina San Michele Appiano, led confidently by Hans Terzer for over forty years, has paved the way in enhancing both the work of its members and the territory, and their inherent excellence. Concepts that today are taken for granted, such as quality projects, the planting of the most suitable vines for the respective vineyard, or the reduction of yields, in the 80s were almost absent in the production philosophy of the cooperatives, and the
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EMERGING WINERY RIDOLFI A STAR IS BORN In 2011 Valter Peretti, an entrepreneur from Vicenza in love with Tuscany, decided to buy a winery in Montalcino. A great wine lover, he decided to revive, by expanding it, Ridolfi, in the Canalicchi area, northeast quadrant of Montalcino. But it was the meeting with Gianni Maccari, who took over the management in 2013, that marked a decisive turning point in the project. The cellar was then built, equipped with high-quality oaks and state-of-the-art equipment, the vineyards were restored, new ones are acquired and planted, and work began on the new vintages. After a promising '14, 2015 saw the winery's consecration. Tradition and innovation in this cellar coexist harmoniously: large oak formats and digital controls, precision viticulture and obsessive attention to detail. The result is a Brunello with an elegant and deep profile, traditional structure, like the ones that Valter and Gianni like, who trained under the legendary Giulio Gambelli, master taster. A ruby red colour that's not too deep, clarity, which speaks to the nose of Mediterranean scrub, small red fruits, spices and undergrowth, and which on the palate is broad, fresh, clear, compact and deep, rich with velvety tannins and supported by an acid freshness that holds the crispness of the fruit in an enchanting, long and persuasive finish. Satisfying today, but promising to be memorable in a few years. And this is only the beginning...
WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR ANTONELLA LOMBARDO CALABRIA, RESTARTING rolled up her sleeves and made up for the shortage of manpower personally, dedicating herself daily to pruning, binding, decanting and everything else there was to do in the vineyard and in the cellar. Two whites from Mantonico, a classic method and a passito, these are Antonella's short-term projects. She has shown that she has a lot of passion but also character, competence and clear ideas to deserve this award. «It's a great starting point for a very young winery like mine, even more so in this particular period, the recognition obtained makes me proud and flatters me. It's also an incentive to continue to believe that working with passion and dedication, even in more “challenging” contexts than many others, dreams do come tru», Antonella commented.
QWhen after ten years of working as an attorney in Milan, Antonella Lombardo returned to Calabria because she wanted to change her life, become a winemaker and invest in her land. So first she found five hectares of vineyards in Bianco, converting them to the organic farming regimen, while building her cellar. Then she worked, vinified, experimented, for a couple of harvests before going out on the market with her labels. At this point, like everyone else, she had to deal with Covid, not exactly the best for a company with its first vintage to market, in any case she had to continue also working in the vineyard. Fortunately, Antonella has always worked first hand in the winery since day one, learning in the field side by side with her workers, so during the lockdown she
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SUSTAINABLE VITICULTURE AWARD FIRRIATO TYPICALITY, TERRITORY, ENVIRONMENT AND BEAUTY In founding Firriato in 1978 - Salvatore Di Gaetano had a clear idea: to bring value to the Trapani terroir and its historic vines, to achieve the highest quality of wines with agronomic management based on environmental sustainability. His wife, Vinzia Novara - her Mediterranean face will later become an icon of the maison, speaking appropriately of agriculture, territory and responsibility towards the environment - brings new impetus and sensitivity. Firriato, which has always been substantially organic, in 2007 - with the introduction of the new EU regulation 834/07 - joined and began the certification process. At the end of the period in 2010, the formal certification of organic agriculture was applied for all agricultural estates. It's a major goal, but for Firriato only a stage: "There is alsways something more beyond." With Irene Di Gaetano and her husband Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato came a new turning point: Federico applied his solid scientific training to improve the wines, improving processes, the naturalness of the habitat became an absolute value, a business principle, the territorial identity of the house. The painstaking work also bears the certifications for the best practices adopted in the owned sites, those relating to the sustainable management of water and energy, and Carbon Neutrality - zero environmental impact - as the first Italian winery. This special award recognizes this far-sighted vision of farming and production activity and gratifies its sentiment, as well as dedication and commitment.
SOLIDARITY PROJECT AWARD VILLA RUSSIZ WINE HELPS THE LESS FORTUNATE times when the primary school was only for boys. Since then, Villa Russiz has never stopped taking care of the projects for which it was born: producing great wines and taking care of less fortunate children. In the most recent past, Villa Russiz has won the Tre Bicchieri title several times, in 2002 their Grafin de la Tour was awarded as White Wine of the Year. Since 2009, the management of all activities has been carried out by the Villa Russiz Foundation and in 2012 the Casa Elvine foster home was established, which houses and provides assistance to minors up to 16 years of age. A social commitment that has continued since the second half of the 19th century and for us, also given the increasing quality of the wines presented year after year, could only deserve the Special Award for Solidarity Project.
1868. We must go back to this date to fully understand the project behind Villa Russiz. In that year Elvine Ritter de Zahony, of Protestant faith, and Count Theodor Karl Leopold Anton de la Tour Voivrè, part of an ancient and noble French Catholic family, married and received an important gift from her father: a plot of land called Russiz, in the Collio Goriziano. Theodor, an expert winemaker, immediately seized the opportunities that that land could give and decided to introduce the great French varieties, which from that moment began to be cultivated throughout the region. Since then the property has distinguished itself for the production of excellent wines that are appreciated throughout Europe. At the same time Elvine Ritter, at the end of the 19th century, founded an evangelical school in favour of the destitute, also admitting Catholic girls, in
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BUBBLES OF THE YEAR OP PINOT NERO DOSAGGIO ZERO FARFALLA CAVE PRIVÉE ’11 BALLABIO OLTREPÒ PAVESE FINDS ITS PLACE IN HISTORY We were definitely enchanted by this cuvée, a reserve at its first release that finally exploits the extraordinary potential of its land of origin: Oltrepò Pavese. There are many aspects that make this Dosage Zero out of the ordinary. In the bottle we find all the beauty and vibrant character of the high elevation hilly vineyards, the calcareous matrix of the soils, the best Pinot Noir grapes from the Versa Valley worked by the skilled hands of oenologist Carlo Casavecchia, who is very well acquainted with the peculiarities of the area, in fact, even the great Piedmontese maisons already in the 70s were producing excellent Classic Method without residual sugar with the terroir's first-rate material;. Finally, there is the signature of an excellent millesime and all the ambition and desire of the Nevelli family to continually improve. Filippo and Mattia realised they had to specialise only on the Classic Method and only on Pinot Noir. The truth of this cuvée is all in the taste, it manages to combine a sparkling freshness, including aromas of small red fruits, mint and anise; in the mouth it is rich, but above all fragrant, with a pleasant acid tension (no malolactic fermentation). The carbonic aspect is caressing, with a final lunge of prolonged flavour and pure class. Our recommended pairing? A carnaroli risotto, cooked al dente and creamy, flavoured with a basket of freshly picked porcini mushrooms.
WHITE OF THE YEAR SOPRAQUOTA 900 ’19 - ROSSET TERROIR PLANTING HIGH TO AIM HIGH just over two hectares - of which 1.7 of petite arvine and the rest is pinot grigio - about forty years old. The vineyard rises dramatically from 900 to 1,050 meters above sea level and therefore enjoys an extraordinary temperature range. Another of the peculiarities of this wine is the aging method, which involves seven different steel containers, amphorae and oak. The final result is a wonderful wine, inebriating for its citrus (grapefruit and mandarin) and floral aromas but also for the tantalizing notes of officinal herbs and apricot. However, it would be wrong to consider the Sopraquota 900 a wine of aromas only, because the nose combines a palate that expresses great qualities of richness and fattiness, with an interminable acidulous and savoury finish.
For some time we have been monitoring vines and white wines from the subalpine arc, sure that the intensity of the aromas and the vibrant acidity are the winning qualities in harmony with modern taste. Petite arvine, originally from Valais in Switzerland, is one of the grape varieties that has aroused the greatest interest. In recent years it has spread widely in the Aosta Valley, adapting perfectly to the pedoclimatic characteristics of the region, giving us a good number of high quality wines. Among these we certainly cannot overlook the Sopraquota 900, produced for the first time with the 2017 harvest and since then always awarded with our Tre Bicchieri recognition. The vineyard, recently purchased by the company, has long been used in the past to produce an excellent Passito. It's a plot of
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ROSÉ OF THE YEAR CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO PIÈ DELLE VIGNE ’18 CATALDI MADONNA REINVENTING CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO is important, which recovers - revisiting it - a technique in ante litteram reduction, where the red part protects the pink part, which would be more vulnerable: they are assembled in fermentation so that they are protected as soon as possible from oxidation. The color is a deep coral, more intense than cherry. It is a wine of extraordinary charm, elegant, savory, full-bodied, deep and rich, full of aromas of small fruits, but also of citrus and fresh notes, which thanks to its delicate tannins and its acid freshness can express itself over time. It is not produced every year: 18 was a beautiful vintage, characterized by a nice spring rainfall, without excessive heat peaks and without great water stress.
Piè delle Vigne is a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, interpreted with the recovery of a traditional technique, the "svacata". An ancient method, traditional in the Aquila area, where once the climate was so cold that the red grapes struggled to reach full ripeness, and Cerasuolo was the most common type. It starts with a pink vinification with a short cold maceration. The grapes for the rosé are harvested a few days earlier, and a slow fermentation is started at a controlled temperature, while those of the red fraction are harvested when fully ripe. The red quickly reaches the rosé, because the process is faster; then, halfway through fermentation, the musts gather and finish fermenting together. In short, it is a wine in which timing
MEDITATION WINE OF THE YEAR VERNACCIA DI ORISTANO ANTICO GREGORI ’76 - CONTINI THE FLAVOUR OF TIME In 1976 the Contini Winery was already 78 years old. Yes, exactly. It dates back to the end of the 19th century when Salvatore Contini, focusing exclusively on Vernaccia di Oristano, founded one of the most famous and prestigious wineries on the island. Over the decades the success of Vernaccia was radiant, so much so that in 1971 it obtained the Denomination of Controlled Origin, the first DOC in Sardinia. Today Contini produces a wide range of labels and there are many grape varieties used. But, despite the markets have changed a lot and some wines do not have the same success as in the past, the winery has never abandoned the idea of producing Vernaccia di Oristano, the oxidative one, obtained thanks to flor yeasts, aged in full chestnut and oak barrels and waiting for many years. It's no coincidence that, after decades, both the Riserva (the last tasted for the Gambero Rosso Wine Guide is a '91 vintage) and the Antico Gregori, produced with the solera method, are released on the market, thus allowing the use of a base from the early 1900s, topped up from time to time with younger millesimes. This year, also given the specification that requires the indication of the vintage on the label, Antico Gregori was released for the first time with the vintage on the label. 1976. A sensational wine, austere and enveloping, dry, warm with alcohol, but softened by an acid vein that after more than 40 years continues to support the drinkability. An interminable wine for persistence that pays homage and honours one of the most particular and rare wines in the world.
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BEST VALUE FOR MONEY FRIULI PINOT BIANCO ’19 - VIGNETI LE MONDE SMALL EVERYDAY JOY the shelf it's sold at around 10 euros. The grapes undergo a cold maceration for about 30 hours, fermentation and maturation take place exclusively in steel. The 2019 snatches recognition by virtue of a broad and very pleasant olfactory profile, with notes of citrus and exotic fruit. On the palate it is both creamy and dynamic, immediate for its freshness and aromatic fragrance, but no less complex. The finish is joyful, relaxed, relaunched by menthol tones and citrus peel: a perfect companion to the everyday table at a very affordable price.
The Award for the Best Value for Money takes us to Friuli. The Vigneti Le Monde company is a historic brand: founded in 1970, it was taken over by Alex Maccan in 2008. The name comes from the locality that lies between the banks of the Livenza and Meduna rivers, on the border with Veneto, a real cru where the mostly calcareous-clayey soils differ greatly from the gravelly ones of the Friuli plain. Here the yields per hectare are very low and the average age of the vines is well over thirty years. Pinot Bianco certainly stands out in the range, a wine that struck us for its fragrance and pleasantness, on
RED OF THE YEAR BAROLO ORNATO ’16 - PIO CESARE A PLUNGE DEEP IN HISTORY Founded by Cesare Pio in 1881, the winery boasts one of the most evocative cellars in the Langhe area, where a part of the walls of the Roman Alba Pompeia can be perfectly seen as the foundation. At the helm we find the fourth and fifth generation with Pio Boffa helped by his daughter Federica and his nephew Cesare Benvenuto, with 70 hectares of vineyards scattered mainly in the major crus of Barolo and Barbaresco. Since 1985, L'Ornato has been the first single-vineyard Barolo in the company's range. The result of a vintage considered exceptional for the great Langhe Nebbiolos 2016, with a long vegetative cycle and complete phenological maturation, Barolo Ornato 2016 could only be a wine out of the ordinary. It comes from a selection of grapes harvested in the highest part of the vineyard vinified with long macerations of about 30 days on the skins. The wine ages for about thirty months in various sized oaks of varied origin, with the majority of large barrels. The 2016 is among the best Ornato Pio Cesare ever and can be counted among the numerous Barolos that have made the recent history of the appellation. As soon as it is poured into the glass, it releases aromas that can intimidate the less accustomed, being very complex and ranging from licorice to tobacco through the classic notes of raspberry and violet; an enveloping nose that will grow with aging in the bottle. On the palate it has the correct dose of austerity that is the signature of Barolo, but balances the dense tannic texture with an incredible extractive richness that will allow the wine to age for a long time in the bottle..
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THE BEST WINES IN THE TERRITORY 3 BICCHIERI 90
75
44
27 26 26 23
20 80 6 18
14 35 27 108
44 141
75 545
8 44
26 144
TUSCANY PIEDMONT VENETO LOMBARDY SICILY
FVG
21 20 18
15 49
90 276 14 37
7 23
15 15 14 14 14
21 75
1
14 33 1 3 23 60
15 34
18 38 6 11
5 14
26 53
141 144
276
545
8 7 6 6 5
CAMPANIA MARCHE ALTO ADIGE PUGLIA SARDINIA EMILIA ROMAGNA ABRUZZO TRENTINO UMBRIA LIGURIA LAZIO BASILICATA VALLE D’AOSTA CALABRIA MOLISE
2 BICCHIERI ROSSI
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108
75 80
11 14 18 23 33 34 35 37 38 44 49 53 60
3
MOLISE BASILICATA CALABRIA VALLE D’AOSTA LAZIO ABRUZZO SARDINIA TRENTINO UMBRIA PUGLIA LIGURIA EMILIA ROMAGNA SICILY CAMPANIA MARCHE ALTO ADIGE LOMBARDY VENETO
FVG
TUSCANY PIEDMONT
STORIES
TRE BICCHIERI VERDI AWARD With the Tre Bicchieri Verdi award we point out the wines produced by wineries that work according to the canons of certified organic or biodynamic viticulture. This year there are 126 featured, 27% compared to all the winners, an absolute record for Vini d'Italia, confirming a virtuous trend that grows from harvest to harvest, from micro-cellars to large companies capable of relaunching the many challenges of environmental sustainability.
Valle d’Aosta Valle d’Aosta Chambave Muscat Flétri ’18 La Vrille
Piemonte
Veneto Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Sant’Urbano ’16 Speri
Bolgheri Rosso Volpolo ’18 Podere Sapaio Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Poggio di Sotto
Cartizze Brut La Rivetta Villa Sandi
Brunello di Montalcino Giodo ’15 Giodo
Colli Berici Carmenere Carminium ’16 Inama
Chianti Cl. ’18 Badia a Coltibuono
Barbera d’Asti Sup. La Luna e i Falò ’18 Vite Colte
Conegliano Valdobbiadene Rive di Soligo Extra Brut ’19 BiancaVigna
Chianti Cl. ’17 Val delle Corti
Barbera del M.to Sup. Cantico della Crosia ’17 Vicara
Madre ’18 Italo Cescon
Barbaresco Currà ’15 Sottimano Barbaresco Rabajà ’16 Bruno Rocca
Barolo Cerretta ’16 Brandini Barolo Lazzarito ’16 Casa E. di Mirafiore Barolo Liste ’15 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Meriame ’16 Paolo Manzone Barolo Villero ’16 Brovia Roero Mompissano Ris. ’17 Cascina Ca’ Rossa
Lombardy Franciacorta Brut Eronero ’12 Ferghettina Franciacorta Dosage Zéro Naturae ’16 Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Dosage Zéro Vintage Collection Noir ’11 Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Extra Brut EBB ’15 Mosnel Franciacorta Extra Brut Extreme Palazzo Lana Ris. ’09 Guido Berlucchi & C. Lugana Madreper
Trentino L’Ora Nosiola ’15 Toblino Trentino Pinot Nero V. Cantanghel ’17 Maso Cantanghel Trentino Riesling ’19 Pojer & Sandri Trento Brut Madame Martis Ris. ’10 Maso Martis
Chianti Cl. Lamole ’18 I Fabbri Chianti Cl. Montaperto ’17 Fattoria Carpineta Fontalpino
Soave Cl. Calvarino ’18 Leonildo Pieropan
Chianti Cl. Ris. ’17 Bibbiano
Soave Cl. La Froscà ’18 Gini
Friuli Venezia Giulia
Chianti Cl. Ris. ’17 Castello di Albola
Collio Friulano ’18 Tenuta Stella
Chianti Cl. Ris. ’17 Castello di Volpaia
Ribolla Gialla Selezione ’10 Damijan Podversic
Chianti Cl. Ris. ’17 Tenuta di Lilliano
Emilia Romagna Arvange Pas Dosé M. Cl. Cantina Valtidone MaraMia Sangiovese ’18 Tenuta Mara Reggiano Lambrusco Concerto ’19 Ermete Medici & Figli Romagna Sangiovese Modigliana I Probi Ris. ’17 Villa Papiano Romagna Sangiovese Sup. Primo Segno ’18 Villa Venti
Toscana Alessandro Dal Borro Syrah ’16 Il Borro Aria di Caiarossa ’16 Caiarossa Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Le Chiuse Baron’Ugo ’16 Monteraponi Bolgheri Rosso Sup. Grattamacco ’17 Grattamacco
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Chianti Cl. V. Istine ’18 Istine Colline Lucchesi Tenuta di Valgiano ’16 Tenuta di Valgiano Cortona Syrah ’17 Stefano Amerighi Duemani ’17 Duemani Guardiavigna ’16 Podere Forte La Gioia ’16 Riecine La Regola ’17 Podere La Regola Montecucco Sangiovese Poggio Lombrone Ris. ’16 Colle Massari Nambrot ’17 Tenuta di Ghizzano Nobile di Montepulciano ’17 Salcheto Pinot Nero ’17 Podere della Civettaja Oreno ’18 Tenuta Sette Ponti
VINI D’ITALIA 2021
Valdarno di Sopra Merlot Galatrona ’17 Fattoria Petrolo Vernaccia di S. Gimignano Carato ’17 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano L’Albereta Ris. ’17 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara
Marche Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. Rincrocca Ris. ’17 La Staffa Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. V. Il Cantico della Figura Ris. ’17 Andrea Felici Conero Campo San Giorgio Ris. ’16 Umani Ronchi Falerio Pecorino Onirocep ’19 Pantaleone Offida Pecorino ’19 Tenuta Santori Piceno Sup. Morellone ’16 Le Caniette Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Ghiffa ’18 Cològnola - Tenuta Musone Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Ylice ’18 Poderi Mattioli Verdicchio di Matelica Collestefano ’19 Collestefano Verdicchio di Matelica Senex Ris. ’15 Bisci
Umbria Brecciaro Ciliegiolo ’18 Leonardo Bussoletti Montefalco Rosso Lampante Ris. ’17 Tenute Lunelli - Castelbuono Montefalco Sagrantino Medeo ’16 Romanelli Montefalco Sagrantino Molino dell’Attone ’15 Antonelli - San Marco Orvieto Cl. Sup. Luigi e Giovanna ’17 Barberani
Lazio Fiorano Rosso ’15 Tenuta di Fiorano Habemus ’18 San Giovenale Poggio della Costa ’19 Sergio Mottura
Abruzzo Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo ’19 Emidio Pepe Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Giusi ’19 Tenuta Terraviva Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Piè delle Vigne ’18 Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Amorino ’16 Castorani Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Vign. Sant’Eusanio ’18 Valle Reale Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Bianchi Grilli per la Testa ’18 Torre dei Beati Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Solàrea ’18 Agriverde Tullum Pecorino Biologico ’19 Feudo Antico
Molise Molise Rosso Don Luigi Ris. ’16 Di Majo Norante
Campania Campi Flegrei Piedirosso Colle Rotondella ’19 Cantine Astroni
Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni ’17 Cantine San Marzano Primitivo di Manduria Sinfarosa Zinfandel ’18 Felline Orfeo Negroamaro ’18 Cantine Paolo Leo Otto ’18 Carvinea
Calabria Grisara Pecorello ’19 Roberto Ceraudo Moscato Passito ’19 Luigi Viola
Sicilia Etna Bianco Arcuria ’18 Graci Etna Rosso Contrada Santo Spirito Part. 468 ’16 Palmento Costanzo Etna Rosso Lenza di Munti 720 slm ’17 Cantine Nicosia Etna Rosso San Lorenzo ’18 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso V. Vico Prephylloxera ’17 Tenute Bosco
Fiano di Avellino Alimata ’18 Villa Raiano
Faro ’18 Le Casematte
Zagreo ’18 I Cacciagalli
Malvasia delle Lipari Passito ’19 Caravaglio
Pian di Stio ’19 San Salvatore 1988
Sicilia Catarrato V. di Mandranova ’18 Alessandro di Camporeale
Taurasi ’16 Donnachiara
Sicilia Nero d’Avola Saia ’18 Feudo Maccari
Basilicata Aglianico del Vulture Gricos ’18 Grifalco Aglianico del Vulture Titolo ’18 Elena Fucci
Puglia
Sicilia Perricone Furioso ’17 Assuli Sicilia Perricone Ribeca ’15 Firriato Sicilia Zibibbo Al Qasar ’19 Rallo
Sardegna
Gioia del Colle Primitivo ’17 Vign. Montevella ’17 Polvanera
Cannonau di Sardegna Naniha ’18 Tenute Perdarubia
Gioia del Colle Primitivo Ris. ’17 Plantamura
Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena Pro Vois Ris. ’15 F.lli Puddu
Gioia del Colle Primitivo Sellato ’18 Tenuta Viglione Gioia del Colle Primitivo Senatore ’17 Coppi
Ris. ’18 Perla del Garda la
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Vernaccia di Oristano Antico Gregori ’76 Attilio Contini Vernaccia di Oristano Ris. ’68 Silvio Carta
10 TRENDS IN THE VINEYARD, IN THE CELLAR AND IN THE GLASS
1 The reaction to global warming in the vineyard increases: forms of cultivation are rediscovered that protect the grapes and delay ripening
2 The attention of winemakers towards sustainability increases
3 Several wineries are taking advantage of the slowdown in the market to keep the wines from aging longer
4 Producers are increasingly following personal journeys, both in the cellar and in communication and marketing
5 The gap in the approach to wine between generations is accentuated: young people are looking for more freshness and drinkability
6 Wineries are increasingly moving towards the use of large barrels and "alternative" techniques such as cement and amphorae
7 Increased use of natural yeasts, selected and propagated within the very production cellar
8 Prosecco Superiore (world superstar) is increasingly heading towards drier and less sweet versions
9 The irresistible rise of Etna continues in Sicily
STORIES
TASTINGS & TRENDS. A YEAR OF TASTINGS TO UNDERSTAND THE FUTURE Chronicled voices and impressions of the main contributors of the Guide to retrace, region by region, a year of tastings, trends, surprises and obstacles to overcome in this annus horribilis It is useless to minimize. Since Vinitaly and all the wine events were called off it seemed clear that the pandemic had a profound impact on the Marche tastings for the 2021 Guide. The tried and tested, almost routine, request for samples has turned into an obstacle race among the most disparate needs: the needs of those who still had nothing bottled (we never accept barrel samples for the evaluation of a definitive wine) to the many doubts linked to fear and uncertainty were a poisonous tail dragging after the spring lockdown. Even the relationship with the various Consortia, indispensable bodies for having a serious and well-organized tasting, was not easy and immediate as they were forced to strictly enforce sanitation guidelines and applying distancing between tasters. In the end, the samples arrived in abundance and the quality of the wines seemed satisfactory, not affected by events. In particular, we noticed how the cool September of the 2019 vintage benefited the wines based on pecorino grapes, appreciated the intact structure of the 2018
10 Pignoletto is the emerging wine from native grape varieties GAMBERO ROSSO
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Verdicchio wines and we were surprised at the skill with which some Castelli di Jesi and Matelica Riserva circumvented the pitfalls of the torrid 2017 vintage. Amid all this, the growing awareness of producers Bianchello del Metauro and Colli Maceratesi Ribona seemed evident. At the end of the work, we were grateful to the many wineries scattered over the various territories that despite everything looked to the future, ready to deal once again with nature which towards the winemaker is often a generous mother but also knows how to be a perfidious, uncontrollable stepmother.
PIERPAOLO RASTELLI
STORIES
I think I can say that also this year the main trend in the world of wine is that of... not having any. The way in which winemakers produce their wine increasingly follows very different paths, in the vineyard as in the cellar, in marketing as in sales. A situation that I do not mind at all, quite the contrary. Of course, finding synthesis is increasingly difficult, but perhaps it's not that important, besides being neither possible nor desirable. As far as I'm concerned, the only option to follow is to be as open as possible to the different styles and production philosophies, persevering in the secular approach that has always distinguished our Guide. On closer inspection, however, there is one thing that particularly struck
me: the ability of producers to put their passion, their experience and their skills in giving proof of resilience in the face of the situation in which we find ourselves, a resilience that is not only conservative, but on the contrary used to innovate and experiment with new ways of experiencing the world of wine. In French there is a term to indicate gamblers who "play hard," who raise, often ending games with the fateful phrase "all in": flambeur. Here, faced with the strange and difficult game that Covid is forcing us to
PAOLO ZACCARIA
back in its path but eager to complete it, Montepulciano and its Vino Nobile have never been so much in shape in the glasses as in difficulty in the general image. But there are also positive signs in terms of communication and awareness of what this eno-bulwark is and what it wants to be, so we are very positive about future scenarios. Among the absolute confirmations, on all fronts, Bolgheri, a valuable reference in the map of enthusiasts, despite the not easy 2017 harvest. The Lucchesia and its super district of "biodynamics" are growing, but above all the Pisa area with so many new bright lights.
In the end, everything went smoothly. Of course, the delay of at least two months in starting working resulted in a tight time frame, but the recovery was as tiring as it was prodigious, especially in a complex region like Tuscany, sometimes complicated, rich in wines and important territories. However, Tuscany boasts well-run Consortia with impeccable organization. It's also thanks to them that we have succeeded in the enterprise. Given the exceptional contingency, there is a substantial "normality" in the progress of the tastings and many confirmations in terms of expectations. Chianti Classico is now a completely rediscovered territory and denomination, proud of its history and capable of reconnecting, in a modern way, to its most intimate traditions. Starting with the Sangiovese. Its wines are increasingly good but above all consistent, identifying a macro-region that dances between the sub-areas, making them clear and distinct without ever forgetting the whole, and an indissoluble basic bond. Regardless of the vintages, which still make the wines vibrate in a decisive way. So here is a 2018 still being defined but of great interest, perhaps patchy, to be verified sub-zone by sub-zone, vineyard by vineyard, but certainly "Chianti," adhering to a certain classic idea. A step further
GAMBERO ROSSO
play, there are not a few producers who have proven to be flambeurs and who have relaunched, increasing investments and energies to always find new solutions and embark on new paths.
ANTONIO BOCO 34
OCTOBER 2020
VINI D’ITALIA 2021
graphic point of view, in a rather essential way through the use of two vines, montepulciano and trebbiano, to which pecorino is increasingly present. All good then? Not exactly. Because if it's true that in wines that we consider qualitative peaks (and which we report with the Tre Bicchieri, but also with the Due Bicchieri Rossi) we find character, territoriality and energy, it's also true that during our tastings we have wines produced precisely from a technical point of view, but with little soul. We would like the Abruzzo producers to push the accelerator a little more on the personality of the grapes and on the natural energy of the territory on which they are lucky enough to cultivate their vineyards.
Let's start with a few figures. This year, for Abruzzo, we tasted just over 600 wines from 80 different wineries. In the Guide we have reviewed about 270 wines from 58 producers. These numbers are used to describe the fierce selection that we make every year in this region, which guide after guide gives us more and more joys. Abruzzo is perhaps more than other Italian areas a territory that thrives on diversity; and we are not just talking about the geographical and pedoclimatic one - in almost every wine description readers will find mentioned the Gran Sasso, or the Majella that look from above to the hills of Teramo, L'Aquila, Pescara, Chieti, Vasto, which slope down towards the Adriatic (another great protagonist of regional viticulture). We speak rather of productive diversity: in the region there are second-level cooperatives that produce millions and millions of bottles and then the small biodynamic artisans. There are the great names of Italian wine (just to mention one: Valentini) alongside a myriad of new wineries often led by young people. All this is declined, from an ampelo-
Working at the Guide and dealing with those who follow the rhythms of the soil has been a real gift in recent months: a lever to change perspective and rethink our life and professional choices. Among the practical aspects of the Guide, one of the most interesting themes is finding a different taste paradigm based on age, a constant that we find both in terms of those who produce and those who taste, a generational reference that we also find in restaurants, in wine bars, enotecas. The new generations are looking for more tension, freshness, contrast, greater drinkability and a more instant character in wines. Starting from this year's tastings, Campania is confirmed as one of the favorite destinations for those looking for tasty whites, rich in marine references, able to
WILLIAM PREGENTELLI
combine with even strong dishes, think of the excellent 2019 vintage for the Greco di Tufo or for the Fiano di Avellino, while on the level of the reds the Taurasi is finally in good shape, throwing away that super-charged and extractive register of the last decade. Moving to Friuli, the 2019 vintage highlights the quality level reached by the Pinot Blanc in the region, while on the macerated whites front we reach peaks of awareness, depth and territorial expression simply unattainable elsewhere. We close with Lombardy, the land of choice for the Italian Classic Method; Franciacorta has married an increasingly dry, taut and well-defined style while Oltrepò Pavese returns to shine with a cuvÊe of Pinot
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Noir that is still little known but which are very well understood in the glass, calling into question many national certainties.
LORENZO RUGGERI
VINI D’ITALIA 2021
A complicated year for everyone. More than a few wineries have lucidly chosen to slow down the release of the most important wines, taking advantage of the slowdown in the world market to allow more time to mature and rest in the bottle. Of this, we can only rejoice. On the other hand, the stylistic path that has clearly highlighted a change underway for some years is different. In the South Tyrol region, also thanks to a sequence of sunny harvests, the producers seem to have renounced the more explosive aspect of aromas, obtaining in exchange wines with a more consistent taste profile and able to better cope with the long stops in our cellars. In Veneto, on the other hand, there is an increasingly clear shift of Prosecco Superiore towards drier versions, both in the case of the more sought-after cuvĂŠes with a limited circulation and in those destined for larger production. Equally clear is the general lightening of the Valpolicella wines which return to best express the uniqueness of the spicy traditional grapes and which today offer a more elegant and taut profile.
size of the region: from Orvieto to Torgiano, from Todi to Narni, where we find a Ciliegiolo in better shape than ever. To the south, our journey ends with the two major islands. In Sicily, Etna continues its unstoppable rise. In addition to the mere quality, in Etna wines, their belonging to the particular volcanic terroir is increasingly evident, expressed both thanks to the soils and thanks to the climate. Outside of the "Muntagna" there is room for many traditional varieties, including novelties (above all Perricone and Zibibbo, in the dry version) and confirmations starting with Nero d'Avola. The conclusion of the (partial) tour of Italy takes place in Sardinia. The great exploit belongs to Vernaccia di Oristano, a wine as particular as it is fascinating, produced in a few examples, but worthy of being counted among the best wines in the world. After that, the island presents, unlike what one might think, very elegant, fine, highly drinkable reds, led by Cannonau and followed by Carignano and Bovale. Among whites, Vermentino always prevails, but pay attention to a fantastic Torbato to once again underline the biodiversity of our nation.
Let's start from the North. Trentino, in small steps, is growing, both in terms of sparkling wine and still wines. Trentodoc bubbles are increasingly authentic and are able to communicate well the terroir of the mountain that produces them: low dosages, high acidity, great finesse and drinkability. The Trentino reds and whites, on the other hand, fear increasingly less their border rivals and come out with their heads held high. The tastings of Teroldego Rotaliano, Marzemino and Nosiola (cornerstones of the territory), as well as some international grape varieties, starting with Riesling and the much loved Pinot Noir, were convincing. At lower latitudes we appreciated the immense work being done in Romagna: the Consortium is active and coordinates dozens of wineries increasingly focused on quality, at the same time the work on the Additional Geographical Mentions continues rapidly, with Romagna Sangiovese increasingly protagonist in the individual territories. The results for Albana are also excellent (a particular white grape variety that can be declined in various versions, from the passito one to one obtained with maceration on the skins). On the Western front of the Region, in Emilia, Lambrusco di Sorbara is confirmed as the absolute protagonist, although the excellent 2019 harvest has also given some nice surprises on Lambrusco Reggiano and Lambrusco di Grasparossa. In addition, Pignoletto appears, an outsider who we will hear lots about soon. We come to the heart of Italy, green Umbria. Sagrantino is at its peak and with it Montefalco Rosso: anything but a second wine, rather a product that has its own precise identity with the true protagonist Sangiovese. Outside of Montefalco there is a universe to discover, despite the small
GAMBERO ROSSO
NICOLA FRASSON
GIUSEPPE CARRUS 37
OCTOBER 2020
STORIES
As always, this year's tastings were a fascinating, if tiring, itinerary. Sicily, Calabria, Tuscany, Trentino, Piemonte, Abruzzo, Friuli, Lombardy... The high definition photo of all this is obviously represented by the 2021 Guide, which given the operating conditions of these months was the most "suffered" edition among the 34 published so far, but which perhaps for this reason was the most exciting. In the meantime, it must be said that 2020 will be a good year for wine almost everywhere. Flashes among visits flow well and everywhere, from north to south, I see very healthy grapes from a careful and conscious viticulture. Zoning and micro-zoning ensure that wineries express the maximum from their terroir, now monitored by weather stations and often flown over by drones, all with the aim of minimizing any treatment in order to have the healthiest, most natural and sustainable grapes. Even the vineyards are now accessed with light and soil-friendly means, fertilizations are reduced to a minimum and generally with natural products, even “vegan” in many cases. Organic and biodynamic are words that have now emerged from a small circle of followers, and are entering the vocabulary of the passionate consumer. If global warming is now a reality, viticulture is adapting by recovering forms of farming that protect the grapes and delay ripening, often the result of ancient wisdom that had been set aside. Science is also providing a new generation of "resistant" grapes that increasingly appear in Italian vineyards, and often in extreme situations. The era of the search for the perfect clone has passed, and everywhere we see the recovery of ancient varieties
and mass selections from the historic vineyards of each area. And this to speak only of the vineyards. But the cellars are also changing their appearance. The ubiquitous celebrated new barrique is now an icon of an oenology that tastes of the Eighties and Nineties. The new millennium has brought us to the rediscovery of large barrels, from 25 hectoliters upwards, and of 600-700 liter tonneau. But it doesn't stop there. There is no winery in Italy today that is not experimenting (usually with moderate success) the vinification in amphora, from 10 to 100 hectoliters. Conceptually antique containers, but very modern if we consider the techniques with which they are made and finished. The concrete tanks, once hidden with embarrassment, today are flaunted with pride, whether they are the result of a recovery of ancient structures, perfectly reconditioned, or of new targeted purchases. Steel always remains important for the more technical vinification but is now flanked by terracotta, ovoid barrels, marble tanks, and the selected yeasts offered by large companies leave more and more space for natural yeasts selected and propagated within the company itself. The result of this epochal change are wines that are ever more precise, clear and local. A trend that
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we eventually find on the label, where from the wider denominations in the “fine wines” we try to define more and more limited terroirs. A trend that is now unavoidable, which leads to municipal denominations and then proudly to the cru or the vineyard. A dynamic scene, in constant evolution, which is giving us more and more exciting and enjoyable wines. The stylistic features of a recent past made up of Guyot everywhere, monoclonal vineyards, high densities and new hyperostatic woods are now - almost - a memory. The complexity of the current Italian landscape is unparalleled in the world, and its irresistible charm arises from this and from the personality of its thousand different grape varieties.
MARCO SABELLICO
VINI D’ITALIA 2021
Also this year I traveled a lot in central-northern Italy. The first days of June took me to Liguria, where we mainly tasted the 2019 whites, which, as expected, were actually the most important Ligurian wines by number and, partially, also by quality. The 2019 harvest is confirmed to be good generally as far as quality with significant peaks of the Vermentino dei Colli di Luni. The Dolceacqua 2018 and the selections of whites from the same vintage were no less, and that took advantage of the prolonged resting time. Shortly after it was the turn of the Tuscan giants (Chianti Classico and Montalcino) who are always a highlight of our tastings, since they are two Docg that normally collect Tre Bicchieri and which represent a must for enthusiasts from all over the world and therefore also for importers. The bulk of Montalcino tastings concerned the 2015 Brunello and the 2018 Rosso. The former, although born in a very hot vintage, performed very well with a fair number of powerful and rich wines but without unnecessary heaviness or tannic drying. The latter, in the happiest versions, gave us fresh and harmonious wines on the nose and palate. The 2017 Rosso di Montalcino wines presented now are also very valid, showing body and fullness that could compare to certain Brunellos. In general, the territory retains its appeal thanks to a rather high average quality and the growth of numerous lesser-known companies. The 2018 Chianti Classico gives great pleasure, with fragrant and fresh reds in tune with the vintage. We look forward to the Reserves and Grand Selections in the coming years. Reserves and Grand Se-
lections that are at the center of attention for the 2017 vintage. Here, of course, the results reward the most capable producers who give us great, powerful and long-lived Chianti Classico, but unfortunately there is no shortage of wines made less pleasant by tannins consequent of a drought harvest. This magnificent territory remains a harbinger of elegant and complex reds but, by virtue of the size of the area and the large number of operators, it's more difficult to find homogeneity in the results. Valtellina continues to supply great nebbiolo, but it's a small area, where we find, for now, little turnover in the companies, although, fortunately, many young winemakers are starting to produce with new vineyards and ideas. To follow. A similar situation inspires the Aosta Valley: many beautiful wines but few new names, for a region that is minuscule in terms of quantity of wine, which knows how to become capital when it comes
to quality. Piedmont, with more than 4,000 wines tasted, as well as being an important slice of the Guide, is an inexhaustible source of great wines, largely thanks to Nebbiolo and the most prestigious denominations linked to this vine. In this edition, fortune smiles on Piedmont, since for Barolo, but also for other Doc and Docg wines (Barbaresco, Gattinara, Ghemme, Roero, etc.), the moment of the 2016 harvest arrives, rightly considered a great vintage. The wines are rich in extracts but also with good acidity and an enviable tannic texture. The 2017 vintage in Barbaresco and Roero produced less elegant and drier wines, but in the best expressions it has character and persistence. Lighter, the 2018 harvest benefits above all the freshness of the whites such as, for example, the Timorasso del Tortonese. Finally, 2019 offers good pulp and good richness to young reds and whites on the market.
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STORIES
TRE BICCHIERI Valle d'Aosta v Sopraquota 900 ’19 Rosset Terroir v Valle d'Aosta Chambave Muscat Flétri ’18 La Vrille v Valle d'Aosta Chardonnay Cuvée Bois ’18 Les Crêtes v Valle d'Aosta Chardonnay Mains et Cœur ’18 Maison Anselmet v Valle d'Aosta Petite Arvine ’19 Elio Ottin v Valle d'Aosta Pinot Gris ’19 Lo Triolet
Piedmont v Alta Langa Brut Rosé 60 Mesi Ris. ’13 Colombo - Cascina Pastori v Alta Langa Extra Brut Ris. ’15 Coppo
v Barolo Ornato ’16 Pio Cesare
v Barbera del M.to Sup. Cantico della Crosia ’17 Vicara
v Barolo Parafada ’16 Massolino - Vigna Rionda
v Barolo ’16 Bartolo Mascarello
v Barolo Pressenda ’16 Abbona
v Barolo Arborina ’16 Elio Altare
v Barolo Rive ’16 Negretti
v Barolo Bric dël Fiasc ’16 Paolo Scavino
v Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata ’16 Renato Corino
v Barolo Brunate ’16 Giuseppe Rinaldi
v Barolo Rocche di Castelletto ’16 Cascina Chicco
v Barolo Cannubi ’16 G. B. Burlotto
v Barolo Sottocastello di Novello ’16 Ca' Viola
v Barolo Cannubi ’16 Poderi Luigi Einaudi
v Barolo Sperss ’16 Gaja
v Barolo Castelletto ’16 Fortemasso
v Barolo Vigna Rionda ’16 Guido Porro
v Barolo Cerequio ’16 Michele Chiarlo v Barolo Cerretta ’16 Brandini
v Barolo Vigna Rionda Ester Canale Rosso ’16 Giovanni Rosso
v Barolo Cerretta Luigi Baudana ’16 G. D. Vajra
v Barolo Villero ’16 Brovia
v Barbaresco Currà ’15 Sottimano
v Barolo del Comune di Castiglione Falletto V. V. ’15 Cascina Fontana
v Barolo Villero Ris. ’13 Vietti
v Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros Ris. ’15 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy
v Barolo Falletto V. Le Rocche Ris. ’14 Bruno Giacosa
v Barbaresco Rabajà ’16 Bruno Rocca
v Barolo Ginestra Ris. ’12 Paolo Conterno
v Barbaresco Rabajà Ris. ’13 Giuseppe Cortese
v Barolo Lazzarito ’16 Casa E. di Mirafiore
v Barbaresco Rombone ’16 Fiorenzo Nada
v Barolo Liste ’15 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli
v Barbaresco Roncaglie Ris. ’15 Socré
v Barolo Meriame ’16 Paolo Manzone
v Barbaresco Vallegrande ’17 Ca' del Baio
v Barolo Monfortino Ris. ’14 Giacomo Conterno
v Barbera d'Asti Sup. La Luna e i Falò ’18 Vite Colte
v Barolo Monprivato ’15 Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio
v Barbera d'Asti Sup. V. La Mandorla ’18 Luigi Spertino
v Barolo Monvigliero ’16 F.lli Alessandria
v Barbera del M.to Albarola ’16 Tacchino
v Barolo Monvigliero ’16 Bel Colle
v Alta Langa Pas Dosé Zero Ris. ’14 Enrico Serafino v Barbaresco Crichët Pajé ’12 Roagna
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v Boca ’16 Le Piane v Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Il Montino ’18 La Colombera v Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Pitasso ’18 Claudio Mariotto v Dogliani Sorì Dij But ’19 Anna Maria Abbona v Erbaluce di Caluso Anima dAnnata ’17 La Masera v Erbaluce di Caluso La Rustìa ’19 Orsolani v Gattinara Osso San Grato Ris. ’16 Antoniolo v Gattinara Ris. ’15 Giancarlo Travaglini v Gavi del Comune di Gavi Minaia ’19 Nicola Bergaglio
OCTOBER 2020
VINI D’ITALIA 2021
v Gavi del Comune di Gavi Vigne Rade ’19 La Toledana v Gavi Pilin ’14 Castellari Bergaglio v Grignolino d'Asti Monferace ’15 Tenuta Santa Caterina v Grignolino del M.to Casalese Monferace Bricco del Bosco V. V. ’16 Giulio Accornero e Figli v Marcalberto Pas Dosé Blanc de Blancs M. Cl. Marcalberto v Moscato d'Asti Canelli Sant'Ilario ’19 Ca' d' Gal v Moscato d'Asti Casa di Bianca ’19 Gianni Doglia
Liguria v Colli di Luni Vermentino Lunae Et. Nera ’19 Cantine Lunae Bosoni v Colli di Luni Vermentino Pianacce ’19 Giacomelli v Colli di Luni Vermentino Sarticola ’19 La Baia del Sole - Federici v Colli di Luni Vermentino Sup. Boceda ’19 Zangani v Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato di Albenga Saleasco ’19 Cantine Calleri v Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato U Baccan ’18 Bruna
v Nizza La V. dell'Angelo ’17 Cascina La Barbatella
v Riviera Ligure di Ponente Rossese Costa de Vigne ’18 Massimo Alessandri
v Nizza Ris. ’17 Tenuta Olim Bauda
v Rossese di Dolceacqua Sup. Luvaira ’18 Maccario Dringenberg
v Nizza Tre Roveri ’18 Pico Maccario
Lombardy
v Ovada Convivio ’18 Gaggino
v 'More Pas Dosé M. Cl. Castello di Cigognola
v Piemonte Pinot Nero Bricco del Falco ’16 Isolabella della Croce
v Franciacorta Brut Eronero ’12 Ferghettina
v Roero Arneis Cecu d'La Biunda ’19 Monchiero Carbone
v Franciacorta Brut Secolo Novo ’12 Le Marchesine
v Roero Arneis Renesio ’19 Malvirà
v Franciacorta Dosage Zéro ’11 Castello Bonomi
v Roero Arneis Sarun ’19 Stefanino Costa
v Franciacorta Dosage Zéro Naturae ’16 Barone Pizzini
v Roero Mompissano Ris. ’17 Cascina Ca' Rossa
v Franciacorta Dosage Zéro Vintage Collection Noir ’11 Ca' del Bosco
v Roero Sudisfà Ris. ’17 Angelo Negro v Ruchè di Castagnole M.to Clàsic ’19 Luca Ferraris v Ruchè di Castagnole M.to Laccento ’19 Montalbera
v Franciacorta Extra Brut ’15 Ricci Curbastro v Franciacorta Extra Brut EBB ’15 Mosnel v Franciacorta Extra Brut Extreme Palazzo Lana Ris. ’09 Guido Berlucchi & C.
41
v Lugana Fabio Contato Ris. ’18 Cà Maiol v Lugana Madreperla Ris. ’18 Perla del Garda v Lugana Menasasso Ris. ’16 Selva Capuzza v Nature M. Cl. Monsupello v OP Buttafuoco Storico V. Solenga ’16 Fiamberti v OP M. Cl. Extra Brut Rosé NorEma ’17 Calatroni v OP Pinot Nero Brut M. Cl. 1870 ’16 Giorgi v OP Pinot Nero Dosaggio Zero Farfalla Cave Privée ’11 Ballabio v OP Pinot Nero Pernice ’17 Conte Vistarino v OP Rosso Cavariola Ris. ’16 Bruno Verdi
v Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Ris. ’13 Lo Sparviere
GAMBERO ROSSO
v Franciacorta Non Dosato Grande Cuvée Alma Bellavista
OCTOBER 2020
v Valtellina Sforzato Corte di Cama ’18 Mamete Prevostini v Valtellina Sfursat 5 Stelle ’17 Nino Negri v Valtellina Sup. Grumello Ris. ’17 Dirupi v Valtellina Sup. Sassella Nuova Regina Ris. ’13 Ar.Pe.Pe v Valtellina Sup. Valgella Carterìa Ris. ’16 Sandro Fay v Valtènesi Chiaretto Molmenti ’17 Costaripa
Canton Ticino v Ticino Merlot Carato Ris. ’17 Vini Angelo Delea v Ticino Rosso di Chiara ’17 Paolo Basso Wine
STORIES
Trentino v L'Ora Nosiola ’15 Toblino v Teroldego Rotaliano Luigi Ris. ’16 Dorigati v Trentino Müller Thurgau Viàch ’19 Corvée v Trentino Pinot Nero V. Cantanghel ’17 Maso Cantanghel v Trentino Riesling ’19 Pojer & Sandri v Trentino Vino Santo Arèle ’07 Pravis v Trento Brut Altemasi Blanc de Noirs ’16 Cavit v Trento Brut Aquila Reale ’10 Cesarini Sforza
v A. A. Merlot V. Kressfeld Ris. ’16 Tenuta Kornell v A. A. Müller Thurgau Feldmarschall von Fenner ’18 Tiefenbrunner v A. A. Pinot Bianco Sirmian ’19 Nals Margreid v A. A. Pinot Bianco Tyrol ’18 Cantina Meran v A. A. Pinot Nero Trattmann Ris. ’17 Cantina Girlan
v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Ca' Florian Ris. ’12 Tommasi Viticoltori v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Capitel Monte Olmi Ris. ’15 F.lli Tedeschi v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Leone Zardini Ris. ’13 Pietro Zardini v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Mazzano ’12 Masi
v A. A. Santa Maddalena Cl. ’19 Tenuta Waldgries
v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Monte Ca' Bianca Ris. ’15 Lorenzo Begali
v A. A. Sauvignon Lafóa ’18 Cantina Colterenzio
v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Ris. ’09 Giuseppe Quintarelli
v A. A. Sauvignon Renaissance Ris. ’17 Gumphof - Markus Prackwieser
v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. S ant'Urbano ’16 Speri
v Trento Brut Cuvée dell'Abate Ris. ’09 Abate Nero
v A. A. Spumante Extra Brut M. Cl. 1919 Ris. ’14 Kettmeir
v Trento Brut Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore ’09 Ferrari
v A. A. Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Ris. ’17 Cantina Terlano
v Bardolino Sup. Pràdicà ’18 Corte Gardoni
v A. A. Val Venosta Riesling ’18 Falkenstein Franz Pratzner
v Capitel Croce ’19 Roberto Anselmi
v A. A. Valle Isarco Sylvaner ’19 Strasserhof - Hannes Baumgartner
v Cartizze Brut La Rivetta Villa Sandi
v A. A. Valle Isarco Sylvaner R ’18 Köfererhof - Günther Kerschbaumer
v Colli Berici Carmenere Carminium ’16 Inama
v A. A. Valle Isarco Veltliner Praepositus ’18 Abbazia di Novacella
v Colli Euganei Cabernet Borgo delle Casette Ris. ’16 Il Filò delle Vigne
Veneto
v Colli Euganei Merlot Ris. ’15 Vignalta
v Trento Brut Madame Martis Ris. ’10 Maso Martis v Trento Brut Nature ’14 Moser v Trento Brut Rotari Flavio Ris. ’12 Mezzacorona v Trento Dosaggio Zero Letrari Ris. ’14 Letrari
Alto Adige v A. A. Bianco Grande Cuvée Beyond the Clouds ’18 Elena Walch v A. A. Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld Ris. ’16 Cantina Kurtatsch v A. A. Chardonnay Sanct Valentin ’18 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano v A. A. Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer ’18 Cantina Tramin v A. A. Lagrein Abtei Muri Ris. ’17 Cantina Convento Muri-Gries v A. A. Lagrein Taber Ris. ’18 Cantina Bolzano
v Amarone della Valpolicella ’16 Famiglia Cottini - Monte Zovo v Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli ’16 Tenuta Sant'Antonio v Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie ’15 Brigaldara v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. ’16 Allegrini v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. ’13 Secondo Marco v Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Albasini ’13 Villa Spinosa
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v Amarone della Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai ’13 Pasqua - Cecilia Beretta
v Conegliano Valdobbiadene Rive di Soligo Extra Brut ’19 BiancaVigna v Custoza Sup. Amedeo ’18 Cavalchina v Custoza Sup. Ca' del Magro ’18 Monte del Frà v Frank! ’18 Barollo v Lessini Durello Dosaggio Zero M. Cl. Ris. ’14 Casa Cecchin
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STORIES
v Lessini Durello Pas Dosé M. Cl. Amedeo Ris. ’15 Ca' Rugate v Lugana Molceo Ris. ’18 Ottella v Lugana Sergio Zenato Ris. ’17 Zenato v Madre ’18 Italo Cescon v Riesling Renano Collezione di Famiglia ’16 Roeno v Soave Cl. Calvarino ’18 Leonildo Pieropan v Soave Cl. Campo Vulcano ’19 I Campi v Soave Cl. La Froscà ’18 Gini v Soave Sup. Il Casale ’18 Agostino Vicentini v Soave Sup. Runcata ’18 Dal Cero - Tenuta Corte Giacobbe v Valdobbiadene Brut Ius Naturae ’19 Bortolomiol v Valdobbiadene Brut Particella 68 ’19 Sorelle Bronca v Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Casté ’19 Merotto v Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Giustino B ’19 Ruggeri & C. v Valdobbiadene Rive di Collalto Extra Brut ’19 Borgoluce v Valdobbiadene Rive di Refrontolo Brut Col Del Forno ’19 Andreola v Valpolicella Cl. Sup. Campo Morar ’17 Viviani v Valpolicella Cl. Sup. Ognisanti ’18 Bertani v Valpolicella Sup. Brolo dei Giusti ’15 Cantina Valpantena Verona
Friuli Venezia Giulia v Braide Alte ’18 Livon
v Friuli Isonzo Sauvignon Piere ’18 Vie di Romans v Friuli Pinot Bianco ’19 Vigneti Le Monde
v Capo Martino ’18 Jermann
v Miklus Natural Art Ribolla Gialla ’15 Draga - Miklus
v Collio ’18 Edi Keber v Collio Bianco Blanc di Blanchis Ris. ’17 Ronco Blanchis v Collio Bianco Broy ’18 Eugenio Collavini v Collio Bianco Fosarin ’18 Ronco dei Tassi v Collio Friulano ’19 Schiopetto
v Ribolla Gialla Selezione ’10 Damijan Podversic
Emilia Romagna v Arvange Pas Dosé M. Cl. Cantina Valtidone v C. B. Pignoletto Frizzante ’19 Floriano Cinti v Lambrusco di Sorbara Brut Rosé M. Cl. ’15 Cantina della Volta
v Collio Friulano ’18 Tenuta Stella v Collio Friulano Rassauer ’19 Castello di Spessa v Collio Pinot Bianco ’19 Doro Princic
v Lambrusco di Sorbara del Fondatore ’19 Cleto Chiarli Tenute Agricole v Lambrusco di Sorbara Leclisse ’19 Alberto Paltrinieri v Lambrusco di Sorbara V. del Cristo ’19 Cavicchioli
v Collio Pinot Bianco ’19 Villa Russiz
v MaraMia Sangiovese ’18 Tenuta Mara
v Collio Pinot Grigio ’19 Polje
v Reggiano Lambrusco Concerto ’19 Ermete Medici & Figli
v Collio Sauvignon ’19 Tenuta Borgo Conventi
v Romagna Albana Passito Scaccomatto ’16 Fattoria Zerbina
v Collio Sauvignon ’19 Tiare - Roberto Snidarcig
v Romagna Albana Secco A ’19 Fattoria Monticino Rosso
v Collio Sauvignon Ris. ’16 Russiz Superiore
v Romagna Sangiovese Modigliana I Probi Ris. ’17 Villa Papiano
v Eclisse ’18 La Roncaia v FCO Bianco Myò I Fiori di Leonie ’18 Zorzettig
v Romagna Sangiovese Predappio Calisto Ris. ’16 Stefano Berti
v FCO Biancosesto ’18 Tunella
v Romagna Sangiovese Predappio Godenza ’18 Noelia Ricci
v FCO Friulano ’19 Torre Rosazza
v Romagna Sangiovese Predappio Le Lucciole Ris. ’17 Chiara Condello
v FCO Sauvignon Liende ’18 La Viarte v FCO Sauvignon Zuc di Volpe ’19 Volpe Pasini v Friuli Isonzo Friulano I Ferretti ’18 Tenuta Luisa
GAMBERO ROSSO
44
OCTOBER 2020
v Romagna Sangiovese Sup. Primo Segno ’18 Villa Venti
VINI D’ITALIA 2021
Tuscany
v Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie ’15 Il Marroneto
v Chianti Cl. Gran Selezione Vign. di Campolungo ’16 Lamole di Lamole
v Aria di Caiarossa ’16 Caiarossa
v Brunello di Montalcino Ripe al Convento di Castelgiocondo Ris. ’14 Castelgiocondo
v Chianti Cl. Gran Selezione Villa Rosa ’17 Famiglia Cecchi
v Baron'Ugo ’16 Monteraponi
v Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova ’15 Casanova di Neri
v Bolgheri Rosso Rute ’18 Guado al Melo
v Brunello di Montalcino V. del Suolo ’15 Argiano
v Bolgheri Rosso Sup. Grattamacco ’17 Grattamacco
v Brunello di Montalcino V. Schiena d'Asino ’15 Mastrojanni
v Alessandro Dal Borro Syrah ’16 Il Borro
v Bolgheri Rosso Sup. Le Gonnare ’17 Fabio Motta v Bolgheri Rosso Sup. Ornellaia ’17 Ornellaia v Bolgheri Rosso Villa Donoratico ’18 Tenuta Argentiera v Bolgheri Rosso Volpolo ’18 Podere Sapaio v Bolgheri Sup. Sassicaia ’17 Tenuta San Guido v Bolgheri Varvàra ’18 Castello di Bolgheri v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Baricci v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Camigliano v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Casisano v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Le Chiuse v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Donatella Cinelli Colombini v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Tenuta Fanti v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Le Macioche v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Poggio di Sotto v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Ridolfi v Brunello di Montalcino ’15 Tenuta di Sesta v Brunello di Montalcino Giodo ’15 Giodo
v Chianti Cl. Lamole ’18 I Fabbri v Chianti Cl. Montaperto ’17 Fattoria Carpineta Fontalpino v Chianti Cl. Ris. ’17 Tenuta di Arceno v Chianti Cl. Ris. ’17 Bibbiano
v Brunello di Montalcino V. Spuntali ’15 Val di Suga v Brunello di Montalcino Vignavecchia ’15 San Polo v Campo di Camagi Cabernet Franc ’18 Tenuta di Trinoro v Carmignano Ris. ’17 Tenuta Le Farnete - Cantagallo v Carmignano Ris. ’17 Piaggia
v Chianti Cl. Ris. ’17 Castello di Albola v Chianti Cl. Ris. ’17 Castello di Volpaia v Chianti Cl. Ris. ’17 Tenuta di Lilliano v Chianti Cl. Tenuta S. Alfonso ’18 Rocca delle Macìe v Chianti Cl. V. Istine ’18 Istine
v Cepparello ’17 Isole e Olena
v Chianti Cl. Vallenuova ’18 Tolaini
v Chianti Cl. ’18 Badia a Coltibuono
v Chianti Rufina Nipozzano Ris. ’17 Frescobaldi
v Chianti Cl. ’18 Castello di Radda
v Colline Lucchesi Tenuta di Valgiano ’16 Tenuta di Valgiano
v Chianti Cl. ’18 San Felice
v Cortona Syrah ’17 Stefano Amerighi
v Chianti Cl. ’17 Val delle Corti
v Costa dell'Argentario Ansonica ’19 Tenuta La Parrina
v Chianti Cl. Ama ’18 Castello di Ama
v Duemani ’17 Duemani
v Chianti Cl. Ducale Ris. ’17 Ruffino
v Guardiavigna ’16 Podere Forte
v Chianti Cl. Gran Selezione Capraia Effe 55 ’16 Rocca di Castagnoli
v I Sodi di San Niccolò ’16 Castellare di Castellina
v Chianti Cl. Gran Selezione Colledilà ’17 Barone Ricasoli
v Il Pareto ’17 Tenute Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari
v Chianti Cl. Gran Selezione Il Poggio ’15 Castello di Monsanto
v La Gioia ’16 Riecine
v Chianti Cl. Gran Selezione Valiano 6.38 ’16 Tenute Piccini
v La Madonnina ’17 La Madonnina
GAMBERO ROSSO
45
OCTOBER 2020
VINI D’ITALIA 2021
v La Regola ’17 Podere La Regola
v Vernaccia di S. Gimignano Ris. ’16 Panizzi
v Le Pergole Torte ’17 Montevertine
v Vernaccia di San Gimignano L'Albereta Ris. ’17 Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara
v Maremma Toscana Alicante Oltreconfine ’18 Bruni v Maremma Toscana Baffonero ’17 Rocca di Frassinello v Montecucco Rosso Sidus ’17 Pianirossi v Montecucco Sangiovese Poggio Lombrone Ris. ’16 Colle Massari v Monteti ’16 Tenuta Monteti v Morellino di Scansano Calestaia Ris. ’16 Roccapesta v Morellino di Scansano Madrechiesa Ris. ’16 Terenzi v Nambrot ’17 Tenuta di Ghizzano
v Volta di Bertinga ’16 Bertinga
Marche
Tenute San Sisto - Fazi Battaglia v Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Qudì ’18 Roberto Venturi v Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. lice ’18 Poderi Mattioli v Verdicchio di Matelica Cambrugiano Ris. ’17 Belisario
v Arshura ’17 Valter Mattoni
v Verdicchio di Matelica Collestefano ’19 Collestefano
v Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. Ambrosia Ris. ’17 Vignamato
v Verdicchio di Matelica Senex Ris. ’15 Bisci
v Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. Ergo Sum Ris. Mirizzi ’16 Montecappone - Mirizzi
Umbria
v Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. Rincrocca Ris. ’17 La Staffa v Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. Salmariano Ris. ’17 Marotti Campi
v Adarmando Trebbiano Spoletino ’18 Giampaolo Tabarrini v Brecciaro Ciliegiolo ’18 Leonardo Bussoletti v Cervaro della Sala ’18 Castello della Sala v Fiorfiore Grechetto ’18 Roccafiore
v Nobile di Montepulciano ’17 Salcheto
v Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. V. Il Cantico della Figura Ris. ’17 Andrea Felici
v Nobile di Montepulciano ’17 Tenute del Cerro
v Conero Campo San Giorgio Ris. ’16 Umani Ronchi
v Nobile di Montepulciano I Quadri ’17 Bindella
v Falerio Pecorino Onirocep ’19 Pantaleone
v Nobile di Montepulciano Il Nocio ’16 Boscarelli
v Kupra ’17 Oasi degli Angeli
v Nobile di Montepulciano Le Caggiole ’17 Poliziano
v Offida Pecorino ’19 Tenuta Santori
v Oreno ’18 Tenuta Sette Ponti
v Offida Pecorino Artemisia ’19 Tenuta Spinelli
v Orma ’18 Orma
v Offida Pecorino Vignagiulia ’19 Emanuele Dianetti
v Montefalco Sagrantino Molino dell’Attone ’15 Antonelli - San Marco
v Paleo Rosso ’17 Le Macchiole
v Piceno Sup. Morellone ’16 Le Caniette
v Orvieto Cl. Sup. Luigi e Giovanna ’17 Barberani
v Pinot Nero ’17 Podere della Civettaja
v Rosso Piceno Sup. Roggio del Filare ’17 Velenosi
v Orvieto Cl. Villa Barbi ’19 Decugnano dei Barbi
v Solaia ’17 Marchesi Antinori
v Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Ghiffa ’18 Cològnola - Tenuta Musone
v Todi Grechetto Sup. Colle Nobile ’18 Tudernum
v Valdarno di Sopra Merlot Galatrona ’17 Fattoria Petrolo v Vernaccia di S. Gimignano Carato ’17 Montenidoli
47
v Montefalco Rosso Lampante Ris. ’17 Tenute Lunelli - Castelbuono v Montefalco Rosso Pomontino ’18 Tenuta Bellafonte v Montefalco Sagrantino Collepiano ’16 Arnaldo Caprai
v Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Massaccio ’18
GAMBERO ROSSO
v Mattone Bianco Trebbiano ’19 Briziarelli
OCTOBER 2020
v Montefalco Sagrantino Medeo ’16 Romanelli
v Torgiano Rosso Rubesco V. Monticchio Ris. ’16 Lungarotti
STORIES
Lazio v Anthium Bellone ’19 Casale del Giglio v Fiorano Rosso ’15 Tenuta di Fiorano v Frascati Sup. ’19 Castel de Paolis v Habemus ’18 San Giovenale v Poggio della Costa ’19 Sergio Mottura v Roma Rosso Ed. Limitata ’17 Poggio Le Volpi v Sodale ’18 Falesco - Famiglia Cotarella
Abruzzo v 8 ½ Pecorino ’19 Villa Medoro v Abruzzo Pecorino Castello di Semivicoli ’19 Masciarelli
v Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Solàrea ’18 Agriverde
v Morrone Pallagrello Bianco ’18 Alois
v Tullum Pecorino Biologico ’19 Feudo Antico
v Pian di Stio ’19 San Salvatore 1988
Molise
v Taurasi ’16 Donnachiara
v Molise Rosso Don Luigi Ris. ’16 Di Majo Norante
v Taurasi ’15 Fiorentino v Taurasi V. Cinque Querce ’13 Salvatore Molettieri
Campania v Campi Flegrei Falanghina Cruna deLago ’18 La Sibilla
v Taurasi V. Macchia dei Goti ’16 Antonio Caggiano
v Campi Flegrei Piedirosso Colle Rotondella ’19 Cantine Astroni
v Zagreo ’18 I Cacciagalli
Basilicata
v Core Bianco ’19 Montevetrano v Costa d'Amalfi Furore Bianco Fiorduva ’19 Marisa Cuomo v Falanghina del Sannio Janare Senete ’19 La Guardiense
v Abruzzo Pecorino Sup. Tegèo ’18 Codice Vino
v Falanghina del Sannio Sant'Agata dei Goti V. Segreta ’18 Mustilli
v Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo ’19 Emidio Pepe
v Falanghina del Sannio Svelato ’19 Terre Stregate
v Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Giusi ’19 Tenuta Terraviva
v Falanghina del Sannio Taburno ’19 Fontanavecchia
v Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Piè delle Vigne ’18 Cataldi Madonna
v Fiano di Avellino ’19 Colli di Lapio
v Montepulciano d'Abruzzo ’15 Valentini
v Fiano di Avellino ’19 Tenuta Scuotto
v Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Amorino ’16 Castorani
v Fiano di Avellino Alimata ’18 Villa Raiano
v Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane Zanna Ris. ’15 Dino Illuminati
v Fiano di Avellino Pietramara ’19 I Favati
v Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Mo Ris. ’16 Cantina Tollo v Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Vign. Sant’Eusanio ’18 Valle Reale v Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Bianchi Grilli per la Testa ’18 Torre dei Beati
v Aglianico del Vulture Il Repertorio ’18 Cantine del Notaio v Aglianico del Vulture Nocte ’16 Terra dei Re v Aglianico del Vulture Sup. Serpara ’16 Re Manfredi - Cantina Terre degli Svevi v Aglianico del Vulture Titolo ’18 Elena Fucci
v 1943 del Presidente ’18 Cantine Due Palme
v Greco di Tufo ’19 Fonzone v Greco di Tufo Claudio Quarta Special Edition ’19 Sanpaolo di Claudio Quarta v Greco di Tufo G ’19 Di Meo
48
v Aglianico del Vulture Gricos ’18 Grifalco
Puglia
v Fiano di Avellino Tognano ’17 Rocca del Principe
GAMBERO ROSSO
v Aglianico del Vulture Donato D'Angelo ’17 Donato D'Angelo di Filomena Ruppi
OCTOBER 2020
v Askos Verdeca ’19 Masseria Li Veli v Brindisi Rosso Susumaniello Oltremé ’18 Tenute Rubino v Castel del Monte Rosso Bolonero ’19 Torrevento v Collezione Privata Cosimo Varvaglione Old Vines Negroamaro ’17 Varvaglione 1921 v Gioia del Colle Primitivo 17 Vign. Montevella ’17 Polvanera
CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR Worldtour 2020
2020 2020 2020 2020 CALENDAR 2021 Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour 2021 2021 2021 2021
GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational
2020
DECEMBER NOVEMBER
2020 2020 2020 USA 2020
03-05 KIEV - Ukraine
Top Italian Wines Roadshow
24 ST.PETERSBURG - Russia
trebicchieri
26 MOSCOW - Russia
trebicchieri
trebicchieri WEB SHOW
SWITZERLAND SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER
trebicchieri WEB SHOW
trebicchieri WEB SHOW JAPAN trebicchieri trebicchieri - Speciale Anteprime - Speciale trebicchieri Anteprimetrebicchieri - Speciale Anteprime - Speciale Anteprime 14 MONTREAL 14 MONTREAL - Canada 14-MONTREAL Canada 14 MONTREAL - Canada - Canada JUNE trebicchieri WEB SHOW KOREA Italian Wines Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Top Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow - Canada - Canada CALGARY -TopCanada -TopCanada 16 CALGARY 16 CALGARY 16 16 CALGARY trebicchieri WEB SHOW TAIWAN 01 SWITZERLAND 01 SWITZERLAND 01 SWITZERLAND 01 SWITZERLAND trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEBVANCOUVER SHOW18 WEBVANCOUVER SHOW - Canada Top Italian Wines Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Top Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow 18 18 VANCOUVER - Canada 18 VANCOUVER - Canada -Roadshow Canada
JUNE 30 ZURICH JUNE- Switzerland JUNE
Vini d'Italia
trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 08 GERMANY 08 GERMANY 08 GERMANY 08 GERMANY DECEMBER OCTOBER OCTOBERDATESOCTOBER OCTOBER TO BE DEFINED trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 02 WIEN - Austria trebicchieri trebicchieri VINEXPO Special SHANGHAI - China trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri ROME -ROME Italy - Italy ROME -ROME Italy - Italy trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 22 U.K. 22 U.K.04 PRAGUE 22 U.K. 22 U.K.Republic - Czech trebicchieri trebicchieri BEIJING China 29 TOKYO 29 TOKYO - Japan- Japan 29 TOKYO 29 TOKYO - Japan - Japan trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 29 USA29 USA 29 USA29 USAtrebicchieritrebicchieri WARSAW - Poland trebicchieri NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER
JULY
JULY
JULY
2021
JULY
trebicchieri trebicchieri 02 SEOUL 02 SEOUL - Korea- Korea 02 SEOUL 02 SEOUL - Korea - Korea
trebicchieritrebicchieri
trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW - China 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 04 SHANGHAI 04 SHANGHAI 04- SHANGHAI China 04 SHANGHAI - Chinatrebicchieri - China MARCH trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB BEIJING SHOW06 WEB BEIJING SHOW trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri 06 - China- 06 China BEIJING 06 BEIJING - China - China 13 HONG 13 KONG HONG 13 KONG HONG KONG DATESKONG TO13 BEHONG DEFINED 02 LOS ANGELES USA trebicchieri 16-19 DUBAI 16-19 -DUBAI UAE -16-19 UAE DUBAI 16-19 -DUBAI UAE -Food&Wine UAE Gambero Rosso Gambero Rosso Food&Wine Week GamberoWeek Rosso Gambero Food&Wine Rosso Food&Wine Week Week trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW 20 SINGAPORE 20 SINGAPORE 20 SINGAPORE 20 SINGAPORE SEOUL - Korea Top Italian Wines Roadshow trebicchieri 04 SAN FRANCISCO - USA 24 - Russia 24 - Russia MOSCOW 24 MOSCOW -trebicchieri Russia-trebicchieri Russia trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB MOSCOW SHOW24 WEB MOSCOW SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri 27 JAPAN 27 JAPAN 27 JAPAN 27 JAPAN trebicchieri TOKYO - Japan 05 NAPA VALLEY - USA trebicchieri 26 ST.PETERSBURG 26 ST.PETERSBURG -26Russia ST.PETERSBURG -26Russia ST.PETERSBURG - Russia - Russiatrebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri SALZBURG - Austria trebicchieri 08 NEW YORK - USA 30 ZURICH 30 ZURICH Switzerland Switzerland 30 ZURICH 30 ZURICH Switzerland Switzerland Vini d'Italia Vini d'Italia Vini d'Italia Vini d'Italia trebicchieri MONTREAL - Canada 10 CHICAGO - USA trebicchieri
12 HOUSTON - USA
Gambero Rosso Food&Wine Week
DUBAI - U.A.E.
2021 2021 2021 2021 - Germany 18 DUSSELDORF
JANUARY JANUARYJANUARY JANUARY JANUARY 12 CALGARY - Canada
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MARCH
Top Italian Wines Roadshow trebicchieri PROWEIN Special
APRIL
MARCH MARCH trebicchieri VINITALY Special 18-21 VERONA - Italy trebicchieri trebicchieri 18 MUNICH 18 MUNICH -18Germany MUNICH 18- Canada MUNICH -trebicchieri Germany -trebicchieri Germany Top Italian Wines Roadshow 02 LOS02 ANGELES LOS ANGELES - USA 02 LOS - USA 02 ANGELES LOS ANGELES - USA - USA trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri 14- Germany VANCOUVER
20 BERLIN 20 BERLIN -25 Germany - Germany 20 BERLIN 20 BERLIN - Germany - Germany Vini d'Italia Vini d'Italia trebicchieri Vini d'Italia Vini MUNICH - Germany trebicchieri trebicchieri 04d'Italia SAN04 FRANCISCO SANMAY FRANCISCO 04 - USA SAN04 -FRANCISCO USA SAN FRANCISCO - USA - USA trebicchieritrebicchieri 25 STOCKHOLM 25 STOCKHOLM - Sweden 25 -STOCKHOLM - Sweden 25 STOCKHOLM - Sweden -Vini Sweden d'Italia trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri Germany 27 BERLIN 05 NAPA 05 VALLEY NAPA -CHI USA 05 MINH NAPA - USA 05- VALLEY NAPA VALLEY - USA - USA HOVALLEY Vietnam trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri Top Italiantrebicchieri Wines Roadshow Vini d'Italia d'Italia Vini d'Italia Vini 27 COPENHAGEN 27 COPENHAGEN - 27 Denmark COPENHAGEN - 27 Denmark COPENHAGEN - Vini Denmark - Denmark NEW NEW - YORK USA08- NEW USA08YORK NEW - YORK USA trebicchieri - USA Top Italiantrebicchieri 08d'Italia 08YORK SINGAPORE trebicchieri trebicchieri Wines Roadshow FEBRUARY 10 CHICAGO 10 CHICAGO -SYDNEY USA 10 - USA 10 CHICAGO - USA trebicchieri - USA Top Italiantrebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri Wines Roadshow -CHICAGO Australia trebicchieri 01 STOCKHOLM - Sweden FEBRUARY FEBRUARY FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 20 DUSSELDORF 20 DUSSELDORF - Germany 20 DUSSELDORF - Germany 20 DUSSELDORF - Germany - Germany trebicchieri trebicchieri PROWEIN Special PROWEIN Special trebicchieri PROWEIN Special PROWEIN Special Top Italiantrebicchieri Wines Roadshow MELBOURNE - Australia Vini d'Italia COPENHAGEN - Denmark -PARIS France -15-17 France PARIS -PARIS France- France 15-17 PARIS 15-1703 15-17 trebicchieritrebicchieri VINEXPO Special VINEXPOtrebicchieri Special trebicchieri VINEXPO Special VINEXPO Special
trebicchieri VINEXPO Special Top Italian Wines Roadshow AUCKLAND - New Zealand PARIS - France KONG HONG -23-26 KONG China HONG -23-26 China KONG HONG -trebicchieri KONG ChinaSpecial -VINEXPO China 23-26 HONG 23-2615-17 trebicchieri VINEXPO trebicchieri Special trebicchieri VINEXPO VINEXPO APRIL Special APRIL Special APRIL APRIL trebicchieri VINEXPO Special 23-26 HONG KONG - China JUNE trebicchieri VINITALY VINITALYtrebicchieri Special trebicchieri VINITALY Special VINITALY Special 18-21 VERONA 18-21 VERONA - Italy18-21 - Italy VERONA 18-21 VERONA - Italytrebicchieri - ItalySpecial
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STORIES
v Gioia del Colle Primitivo Muro Sant'Angelo Contrada Barbatto ’17 Tenute Chiaromonte v Gioia del Colle Primitivo Ris. ’17 Plantamura v Gioia del Colle Primitivo Sellato ’18 Tenuta Viglione v Gioia del Colle Primitivo Senatore ’17 Coppi v Onirico ’18 Terre dei Vaaz v Orfeo Negroamaro ’18 Cantine Paolo Leo v Otto ’18 Carvinea v Primitivo di Manduria Lirica ’18 Produttori di Manduria v Primitivo di Manduria Piano Chiuso 26 27 63 Ris. ’17 Masca del Tacco
v Etna Bianco Alta Mora ’19 Alta Mora
v Sicilia Perricone Furioso ’17 Assuli
v Etna Bianco Arcuria ’18 Graci
v Sicilia Perricone Ribeca ’15 Firriato
v Etna Bianco Pietrarizzo ’19 Tornatore
v Sicilia Zibibbo Al Qasar ’19 Rallo
v Etna Bianco Trainara ’18 Generazione Alessandro
Sardinia
v Etna Rosso Barbagalli ’17 Pietradolce
v Alghero Torbato Catore ’18 Tenute Sella & Mosca
v Etna Rosso Contrada Santo Spirito Part. 468 ’16 Palmento Costanzo
v Cannonau di Sardegna Cl. Dule ’17 Giuseppe Gabbas
v Etna Rosso Erse Contrada Moscamento 1911 ’17 Tenuta di Fessina v Etna Rosso Lenza di Munti 720 slm ’17 Cantine Nicosia v Etna Rosso Passorosso ’18 Passopisciaro v Etna Rosso Qubba ’18 Monteleone
v Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni ’17 Cantine San Marzano
v Etna Rosso San Lorenzo ’18 Girolamo Russo
v Primitivo di Manduria Sinfarosa Zinfandel ’18 Felline
v Etna Rosso V. Vico Prephylloxera ’17 Tenute Bosco
v Cirò Rosso Cl. Sup. Duca San Felice Ris. ’18 Librandi v Esmen Tetra ’18 Tenuta del Travale v Grisara Pecorello ’19 Roberto Ceraudo v Moscato Passito ’19 Luigi Viola v Pi Greco ’19 Antonella Lombardo
Sicily
v Etna Rosso Zottorinoto Ris. ’16 Cottanera
v Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena Pro Vois Ris. ’15 F.lli Puddu
v Carignano del Sulcis 6 Mura Ris. ’17 Cantina Giba v Carignano del Sulcis Sup. Terre Brune ’16 Cantina Santadi v Nuracada Bovale ’18 Audarya v Su' Nico ’18 Su Entu
v Faro ’18 Le Casematte v Malvasia delle Lipari Passito ’19 Caravaglio v Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé ’17 Donnafugata v Salealto Tenuta Ficuzza ’18 Cusumano v Sicilia Catarrato V. di Mandranova ’18 Alessandro di Camporeale v Sicilia Chardonnay V. San Francesco Tenuta Regaleali ’18 Tasca d'Almerita
v Cerasuolo di Vittoria Giambattista Valli ’18 Feudi del Pisciotto
v Sicilia Mandrarossa Cartagho ’18 Cantine Settesoli
v Cerasuolo di Vittoria Il Para Para ’17 Poggio di Bortolone
v Sicilia Nero d'Avola Saia ’18 Feudo Maccari
GAMBERO ROSSO
v Cannonau di Sardegna Naniha ’18 Tenute Perdarubia
v Capichera V. T. ’17 Capichera
v Primitivo di Manduria Raccontami ’18 Vespa - Vignaioli per Passione
Calabria
v Cannonau di Sardegna Mamuthone ’17 Giuseppe Sedilesu
50
OCTOBER 2020
v Turriga ’16 Argiolas v Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Sciala ’19 Surrau v Vermentino di Sardegna Stellato ’19 Pala v Vernaccia di Oristano Antico Gregori ’76 Attilio Contini v Vernaccia di Oristano Ris. ’68 Silvio Carta
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GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Chiara Buosi, Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Nino Aiello, Stefania Annese, Gianluca Atzeni, Giuseppe Carrus, Gianni Fabrizio, Nicola Frasson, Massimo Lanza, Paola Mencarelli, Stefano Polacchi, William Pregentelli, Marco Sabellico, Loredana Sottile, Paolo Zaccaria PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Gaia Niola GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia Advertising Class Pubblicità SpA Milano, Via Marco Burigozzo, 8 - tel. 02 58219522 For commercial enquiries: mprestileo@class.it Advertising director Paola Persi email: ufficio.pubblicita@gamberorosso.it
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