TIPS OF THE TRADE REVEALED — HOW THE EXPERTS JUDGE BEER (see page 64) >>> INCLUDING
ISSUE 49 WINTER 2019 PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95)
BEERS & CIDERS
TASTED
Taphouse ON TOP JAMES THORPE’S DARLO TAPHOUSE IS AUSTRALIA’S BEST BEER VENUE. WHO ELSE MADE THE LIST?
THE DARK SIDE WHY PORTERS AND STOUTS DESERVE TIME IN THE LIGHT
HOMEBREWING EQUIPMENT KIT TIPS FOR BEGINNERS AND VETERANS
WWW.BEERANDBREWER.COM
PLUS! ALTERNATIVE INGREDIENTS | BREWING IN WINE COUNTRY | GABS BEERS AT HOME
CONTENTS
inside... Winter 2019
FEATURES 16 Porters and stouts
36
Luke Robertson shines a light on the dark beers and how porters and stouts are growing in popularity and variety
22 Top 65 Beer Venues Our judging panel is back for 2019, and this time we’ve changed things up a bit. Check out the best beer venues for range, food, service, engagement and décor in our allnew list
32 Homebrewing Equipment The advances in homebrewing equipment have had a huge effect for beginners and veterans alike. Check out what’s now available in this growing market
36 Brewing Ingredients – Getting creative Getting creative with ingredients doesn’t just mean skittles and whale vomit. A host of established alternative grains, fruits and spices have been adding something special to beers for years
44 Regional Breweries Series Our second regional instalment takes us to South Australia and the ‘wine’ regions beyond Adelaide that support and are supported by a fantastic array of breweries
64 Tricks of the trade Always wondered what professional beer tasters are looking for in a beer? Want to know how to recognise flavours and spot flaws? Tam Allenby tells all
4 www.beerandbrewer.com
HOMEBREWER 48 Welcome 49 Letters 50 Q&A 52 Jake’s Brew Log
“Consumers are going to see more and more of these alternative grains.”
– Stuart Whytcross, Voyager Craft Malt
Jake Brandish investigates stouts and brews one with oatmeal
54 Bayside Brewers How a Melbourne homebrew society supported Sierra Nevada’s Campfire Relief Fund
56 GABS Chris Thomas tries his hand at balancing sessionability and creativity with some GABS brews
60 Recipes Andrew Childs takes us through Quite Hoppy IPA, a ‘quite hoppy’ IPA!
61 Coopers This issue, Coopers has brought us a toasted coconut porter
62 Level Up The Dark Side – what dark malts bring to dark beer
16
22
REGULARS 6 The Brew What’s happening this winter?
8 News The biggest brewing stories out there
10 World News 12 Bits and Bobs 14 New Venues 68 Entertaining – Food Get ready for the morning after the night before with Chefs Eat Breakfast Too
72 Tasting Notes This winter, we’re introducing our all-new ‘formally informal’ tasting panel. The panellists have turned their tastebuds to red, amber and brown ales, but there are also beers and ciders from across the style spectrum
80 Directory 82 A Pint With… Oscar McMahon, co-founder of Young Henrys
72
Check out our Top 65 Beer Venues 44
WInter 2019 5
PORTERS & STOUTS
E B T ’ DON F O D I AFRA … K R A D E H T ARE PORTERS AND STOUTS SUFFERING FROM AN IMAGE PROBLEM IN AUSTRALIA? LUKE ROBERTSON CHATS TO THE BREWERS WHO LOVE AND PRODUCE DARK BEERS TO FIND OUT
When a black beer is poured, with a foamy head, light peeking its way in around the edges, it’s a beautiful thing. Flavours of chocolate, coffee, caramel and more spill from the glass. A heady mix of dark roast malts is waiting to burst onto your palate. Why is it then that these beers get such a bad rap? Why do casual drinkers tend to shy away from them at the mere mention? Do dark beers have an image problem? The answer to the last question is probably a resounding yes, but it does look like things are changing in Australia. Inner-city Sydney brewery The Grifter Brewing Co. makes its Omen Oatmeal Stout year-round for the taproom, then in winter it extends production to cans and kegs for bottleshops, bars and pubs. Co-founder Glenn Wignall puts it simply: “People shouldn’t be put off by colour”.
16 www.beerandbrewer.com
PORTERS & STOUTS
“IT’S HUGE. WHEN WE BRING IT OUT, WE PRESELL IT. WE’VE HAD TO DO A SECOND BATCH THIS YEAR BECAUSE IT SOLD OUT AND DIDN’T GET TO EVERYONE.” SAM FUSS, PHILTER BREWING “A lot of people have it in their heads that dark beers are really heavy. A lot of people say having a Guinness is like having a pie or something,” he says. “Obviously our stout is a fuller beer, and if you’re into easy drinking summer ales and lagers or anything, you’re not going to like it”. However, he says, as awareness around all beer styles grows in Australia, so is awareness of dark beers. According to Wignall, it’s a lack of experience with the style more than anything and beers like The Omen are helping change that.
BY THE TANK LOAD Wignall says last winter time the brewery had a 24 hectolitre tank (2400 litres) dedicated to the Omen. As winter hits Australia this year, he expects the same will happen, and packaging runs will be part of that. Sydney-based Philter Brewing starts production of its Tropical-style Caribbean Stout just before winter begins. After a successful launch last year, it immediately presold the first batch of the 2019 edition. “It’s huge. When we bring it out, we presell it,” says head brewer Samara Fuss. “We’ve had to do a second batch this year because it sold out and didn’t get to everyone”.
The Black Stuff: five Guinness facts
Not too far from Sydney, in Newcastle, Foghorn Brewpub always keeps stouts and porters in its regular lineup. Brewing only for the brewpub, in 1800 litre
We could hardly do a story about dark beers without talking Guinness. Here are some fast Guinness facts:
batches, co-founder and head brewer Shawn Sherlock
• In 1959 Guinness pioneered the use of nitrogen gas to serve its Draught Stout. It’s a way to approximate cask-style ale, while using keg dispense.
service. He is passionate about the two styles and finds
• Launching in 1759, it’s not the oldest brewing company in the world (that’s Weihenstephaner c1040) but being brewed in 50 countries worldwide almost 300 years later, it’s certainly one of the most successful.
has the ability to brew small batches for immediate fresh the Newcastle locals extremely receptive to them as well. “Black beers and dark beers were traditionally quite popular here,” Sherlock explains. “[Dating] back to beers like Tooheys Hunter Old, and you can still get
•G uinness is often seen as a heavy, rich beer, but this is a trick of the carbonation. In fact, it has less calories and lower carbs than many pale lagers.
Tooheys Old fairly widely here, even though it’s no
• Guinness isn’t actually black. Sure, it looks black in a dimly lit Irish pub, but take it outside, hold it up to some bright light and you’ll see the edges are actually a dark ruby red.
was Tooheys Hunter Old”.
• Ireland is only the third largest market for Guinness. The UK is second. Number one? Nigeria! That’s right. Nigeria drinks more Guinness than any other country.
says he can’t be sure why they are popular in that part
longer Hunter. Certainly one of my first favourite beers Sherlock says if he doesn’t have something dark on tap, then he gets complaints from the regulars. He of the world but being such a fan of the styles, he isn’t complaining; he gets to brew them.
WInter 2019 17
HOMEBREWING EQUIPMENT
Homebrew
FOR YOU
M
Steve (Hendo) Henderson of Rock Star Brewing Academy talks homebrewing at Grain & Grape’s System Wars event
HOMEBREWING EQUIPMENT COMES IN MANY SHAPES AND SIZES, SO WHAT DO BUDDING AND EXPERIENCED HOMEBREWERS ALIKE NEED TO KNOW, ASKS CHARLIE WHITTING?
any of us will
greater range of brewing kits and equipment
steer you onto the right path and ensure that
remember our
from which to choose. The craft brewing
you’re purchasing equipment that suits your
first homebrewing
movement has heightened everyone’s
individual needs and desires.
experience –
ambitions and technological developments
borrowing some
can now make the brewing process easier,
involvement quaffing beer? Then a simple
kit from friends
“Do you want to make low cost low
faster and less fiddly. So what are the
AMPI Plastic Fermenter and Extract brewing
or relatives, or cobbling together whatever
essential purchases for someone getting
might be for you,” says Dermott Dowling,
implements you could find to see if they
started and are there ways you can improvise
managing director of Beer Co. “Do you want
worked. We will thus most likely have had
with what you’ve already got?
to get into all-grain brewing and brew in a
rather different brewing experiences and
“Homebrewing can be as simple and as
bag (BIAB)? If so, an entry level all-grain
produced beers that varied greatly in quality.
complex as you like,” says Gary Staples,
brewing set-up like a Crown Urn and BIAB
The ‘right’ equipment can take many forms
director of Newera Brewing. “All you really
could be for you. Or do you want to mash and
depending on what kind of homebrew you’re
need is a fermenting vessel, some basic
ferment like a pro? If so, you might want a
setting out to achieve, but given the diversity
household items and a good quality kit beer.
single vessel automated brewing system like
in today’s marketplace and the innovations
It’s amazing how good these can be if you’re
the popular Grainfather with temperature
that are changing the way we brew, it’s worth
careful about how you use them.”
and mash control and Bluetooth wireless
examining what’s actually on the table.
Once you’ve considered what it is you
interactivity. We recommend new-to-all-
want to achieve, talk to experts about how
grain brewers buy individual components in
GETTING STARTED
you can best go about doing so. Homebrew
order of need and budget, and work towards a
For beginners looking to get into
shops, books and magazines, and online or
set-up for life.”
homebrewing, there has never been a
real-life homebrewing clubs can all help to
32 www.beerandbrewer.com
Regardless of the kit you choose, one of the
HOMEBREWING EQUIPMENT
Some additional bits of hombrewing kit to consider - A bench capper. Much safer than a hammer capper. - A second fermenter for bulk priming. Makes carbonation in bottles much more consistent. - A fridge for fermenting with a thermostat and heater. Being able to ferment at the appropriate temperature all year round is a great advantage. - A kegging system is the single thing that makes brewers stick to the hobby. It is so much quicker and easier than bottling and the beer is so much better as a result of being kept at an even temperature and with consistent carbonation. (Supplied by Grain and Grape) - A wort chiller: There’s nothing more tedious after a long brew day to have to muck about with icebaths or ‘no chill’ methods to wait for wort to cool to pitching temps. A simple copper coil hooked up to the garden hose can cool from boiling to around 24C in 15 minutes in winter. (SA Homebrew)
Grainfather homebrewing equipment from Brewmart
most important things you will purchase
USING IT PROPERLY
as a homebrewer is a collection of cleaning
When it comes to making your first or
and sterilisation products. Keeping your
your 101st brew, there are certain rules
equipment and environment clean is
of usage that will forever hold true and
more important than anything – possibly
certain problems that continue to bedevil
even than following the recipe! When it
even the most experienced homebrewer.
comes to cleaning products, it is worth
Homebrew shops and clubs can offer
knowing what’s actually in them. Check
advice and even demonstrations to help
the ingredients and talk to suppliers to
finetune any problems you might be
ensure you’re not using something that
having. That way you can ensure that
might have damaging effects further
you are not just using your equipment
down the line.
properly, but also that you understand
In addition to cleanliness,
how and whether it’s working. They can
temperature will have a huge effect
also teach you what can be done to fix
on how your finished products taste,
problems. The homebrewing community
so having equipment to maintain and
is an engaged and talkative one, so there
monitor temperature is also essential.
will always be someone to plug any gaps
“The biggest improvement that we think improves the quality of your beer
in knowledge or expertise. “The most common question we still
is a temperature controlled fermentation
get from brewers after 29 years is ‘has
space,” says Rowan Florence, team
my beer finished fermenting?’, usually
member at Brewmart Brewing Supplies.
followed by ‘it’s stopped fermenting’,”
“A second hand fridge and a temperature
says John Preston, founder of the Beer
controller is all you need to dial in exactly
& Brewer Award-winning Grain and
the right temperatures for lagers, ales and
Grape homebrew shop. “Being able to
everything in between. This is the easiest
use a hydrometer correctly fixes the
way to eradicate the typical off-flavours
problem and allows a brewer to judge
associated with bad homebrew and is
alcohol content. There’s lots of advice
the best way to ensure that all the time
for homebrewers available from your
you’ve spent hasn’t been for nothing. We
local homebrew shop, clubs, books and
wouldn’t even consider brewing without
internet forums. Brewing is for everyone
one and you shouldn’t either.”
– not just for the handy person.”
Homebrewing with Grainfather
WInter 2019 33
BREWING INGREDIENTS: GETTING CREATIVE
Beyond
THE CORE FOUR WHILE GABS IS A CELEBRATION OF THE WILD AND WACKY, THERE IS ALSO A HOST OF MORE MAINSTREAM INGREDIENTS THAT SIT BEYOND THE ‘CORE FOUR’, BUT NEVERTHELESS HAVE HAD AN ENORMOUS IMPACT ON BEER AND BREWING OVER THE YEARS AND CONTINUE TO DO SO
L
ast year (Winter 2018), we
“Generally, adjuncts like corn or rice have
price: it is easier to get hold of and a less
wrote about the creativity of
been used extensively as a cheaper source
expensive purchase. But there are other
GABS beers, where brewers
of carbohydrate/sugar for larger brewers,”
grains that brewers can use – in varying
go a little bit mad in a bid to
says Jordan Hynes, Bintani’s export logistics
quantities – that can add something to the
stretch what’s possible in the
specialist. “However, in the craft world we
flavour or texture of a beer, or indeed create
brewing world. Two issues later
are seeing brewers gravitate toward adjuncts
something entirely different. And there are
(Summer 2019), Beer & Brewer assistant editor
like oats, rye and triticale, looking for flavour
plenty to choose from.
Tam Allenby wrote about brewing’s four core
improvements or something to make their
ingredients – hops, malted barley, water and
beers stand out from the pack. For example,
used in brewing are malted rye, rolled or
yeast – and how they were evolving in their
rye malt, notoriously difficult to mash, is
flaked oats and flaked or rolled wheat, and,
own way to change the face of beer itself.
appearing commonly in IPAs giving a spicy/
of course, brewing sugars like dextrose and
peppery addition.”
candi syrup to boost ABV without boosting
However, there are ingredients that sit between these two camps, outside the scope
“The most prevalent adjuncts we see
body too much,” says Dermott Dowling,
the German Reinheitsgebot, but hardly likely
TRADITIONAL GRAINS
managing director of Beer Co. “At the other
to raise too many eyebrows at the bar.
Malted barley rightly stands as the pre-
end of the sugar spectrum, we are seeing a
eminent grain for brewing for a number
rise in the use of lactose in milk stouts and
ingredients come in the form of alternative
of reasons, whether it’s its supreme sugar
milkshake IPAs or pastry beers where brewers
grains, which are there to provide additional
content, its energic enzymes or its helpful
are looking for sweetness and mouthfeel
sugars for the yeasts to feast on to make
husks, all of which contribute to an easier
without fermentability. Some specialist
alcohol. But these ingredients also bring their
brewing experience. Barley’s other major
sugars like maple syrup and honey are also
own characteristics to the finished product.
advantage beyond its sugar content is its
being used by adventurous brewers.”
The most common additions to brewing
36 www.beerandbrewer.com
BREWING INGREDIENTS: GETTING CREATIVE
Voyager Craft Malt sells many different grains for brewing
What do these different ingredients bring to a beer?
Harvesting the crop with Voyager Craft Malt
Wheat: Wheat is predominantly used for head retention but also has the benefit of haze if you are on the haze train when used in high amounts. Large proportions of wheat also tend to give beer a certain lightness of mouthfeel along with a dash of refreshingly crisp acidity. Oats: Oats have found their way well outside oatmeal stout into a variety of styles from IPA and of course NEIPAs where they are often a staple ingredient at up to 10% addition rates. Oats impart a nutty taste and help again with head and mouthfeel giving a beer depth and body. Rye: Rye increases the complexity of beer flavour, giving a spicy quality and can lend a rounded, smooth mouthfeel. Rye sometimes adds a reddish tinge to beers in which it is used. Normally, only small quantities of malted rye are used in modern brewing of speciality beers. The usual proportion is about 10%–20% of the malt bill. Oysters: Oysters have been used in brewing for a while and are not as unknown or out there as some people might think. The saltiness of the oysters typically added late in the boil adds a nice balance to the sweet stout. (Provided by Beer Co)
WInter 2019 37
TASTING BEER: TRICKS OF THE TRADE
Turbocharge your tastebuds
TAM ALLENBY CHATS TO THREE TOP BEER JUDGES TO FIND OUT IF THERE’S ANY INDUSTRY SECRETS OR TRICKS OF THE TRADE THAT AN ENTHUSIAST CAN APPLY WHEN TASTING AND ENJOYING BEER IN A MORE RECREATIONAL SETTING
I
f you’re reading this article, chances
that the average enthusiast doesn’t? What
trophy a beer show like the recent AIBAs, a
are you’re not one to down a
are they looking for? And does all that
beer will have scored very highly with a whole
whole beer without giving it a bit
judging affect how much they enjoy a beer
fleet of qualified judges, each with their own
of thought – well, not every time
when they’re not tasting professionally, in an
strengths and weaknesses when it comes to
anyway. It goes without saying that
award setting or otherwise?
perceiving aromas and tasting flavours (good
the flavour and aroma of a beer
and bad) in beer.
are probably very important to you; in other
THE EXPERTS
words, you’re a conscious beer drinker, who
For this article, Beer & Brewer reached out to
have acute sense of smell, taste and a feel
savours as they sip.
three beer industry figures who are regular
for style,” says Capaldo. But this is not just
judges on the awards circuit: Neal Cameron,
an innate skill; rather it’s something gained
Justin Fox and Michael Capaldo.
through countless hours of practice as well as
But what’s the difference between your average enthusiast – the Untappd-using, GABS-attending, craft beer aficionado – and
As they each explain, the formal judging
“Beer judges are like truffle hounds, we
formal sensory training.
the judges who make the hard decisions on
process involves many judges coming to a
the overall quality of a given beer, and make
collective decision about the given quality of
practice and hard work although it is very
the call on whether it’s worthy of an award,
a beer, by breaking it down to its constituent
difficult for people outside of the professional
from a bronze medal to a trophy?
parts: usually based on appearance, aroma,
arena to get access to training on recognising
flavour, technical quality and style. To win a
beer faults,” explains Cameron. “To be good
When they taste a beer, what do they do
64 www.beerandbrewer.com
“Like any skill, it’s 20% genetics and 80%
TASTING BEER: TRICKS OF THE TRADE
at fault recognition can take years of training
usually result from poor yeast management or
and it’s a skill that needs to be constantly
storage issues, and while there’s an exhaustive
worked on. If you consider that the human
list of reasons why any given beer might taste
olfactory system (aroma recognition) can
‘off’, there are a few usual suspects.
detect an unlimited amount of aromas,
“When yeast is managed poorly in the
getting your brain to put a label on each
brewery (it’s a fickle organism) you get
individual aroma that’s out there in the real
off flavours like diacetyl (butterscotch),
world is a tough skill to master.
acetaldehyde (emulsion paint or green apples)
“That sensation when you smell something
and various sulphur compounds – eggy
but can’t put a name to it? That’s incredibly
(hydrogen sulphide), sweetcorn (dimethyl
common, and fault recognition training is not
sulphide) and struck match (sulphitic).”
really training you to smell something – that’s
On the storage side of the spectrum,
easy and natural – it’s training you to single in
oxidation is the enemy – to rehash a regular
on a specific aroma and then be able to put a
topic raised in these pages, when beer is
name to it – two quite different skills.”
kept on warm shelves it very quickly loses its freshness and flavour expression and becomes
THE USUAL SUSPECTS
muted and ‘cardboardy’. This is why freshness
But what are beer judges looking for when it
and cold-storage are so vital to ensuring a beer
comes to identifying faults in a beer?
is enjoyed as the brewer’s intended.
In short, there are a number of flavours and
A lineup of beers to taste at the Indies
Making matters more complicated is the
aromas that are considered a fault when they
fact that every person’s palate perceives
cross a certain threshold; others that are only
different flavours at different concentrations
appropriate in small quantities in specific
– and that this difference in sensitivity
styles (like phenolics in a wheat beer), and
means one person can enjoy a beer that
others still that should never be present in a
another finds to be undrinkable due to
beer regardless of its style (like butyric acid,
perceived faults.
most often compared to baby vomit). As Cameron explains, common beer faults
Justin Fox, for example, says he finds it extremely difficult to identify diacetyl – one
WHICH FAULT DO YOU FIND THE MOST UNPLEASANT? Neal Cameron: “Perhaps the most unpleasant is a fault generated by bacteria common when producing a sour mash beer – the bacteria produces a chemical called butyric acid which genuinely smells like baby vomit – once you’ve smelled that in a beer you can never unsmell it.” Michael Capaldo: “Iso-valeric acid gets me a lot (cheesy, sweaty socks), and the old classics oxidation and diacetyl. But mercaptans, often described as smelling like a rubbish bin, are my most hated!” Justin Fox: “I back Neal up 100 percent, butyric acid. It’s vomit. The gut turns milk into butyric acid, it’s baby vomit basically, that’s exactly the smell.”
(l-r) Neal Cameron and Justin Fox get to work
WInter 2019 65
BREWING EQUIPMENT
BREWING EQUIPMENT
Treat it right BUYING BREWING EQUIPMENT IS A MAJOR INVESTMENT, BUT THE WAY YOU LOOK AFTER IT AND USE IT WILL HAVE A MASSIVE IMPACT ON THE QUALITY OF BEER YOU PRODUCE AND THE LIFESPAN OF THAT KIT
M
y father was a sheep farmer in south Wales for a time and one of the things that drove him mad was the habit some farmers had of leaving their machinery – tractors, spreaders, bailers – outside in all weathers at the mercy of the elements. Farming equipment will set you back a pretty penny, but if it’s left out to rust in the Rhondda rain it will cost you even more in time
and money. The same rules apply to brewing equipment. Any piece of kit will give you better results and for longer if you use and care for it correctly. In our Brewing Equipment Part 1 feature (issue 45) we explored what to look for when purchasing brewery equipment and setting up your brewery. In this second part, we will examine what it takes to get the most out of that kit in the subsequent years.
GETTING STARTED
ALL THE BEST BITS FROM THE ANHC (see page 74) >>> * Additional costs apply for New Zealand.
INCLUDING
Looking after your equipment begins before it has even arrived at your brewery. You might be eagerly waiting for that fully laden truck to arrive laden, but you need to
have a plan in place right from the get-go, or you will be tinkering even more than usual. Preparation is key, especially before your first brew. Your primary aim should be to get to know your brewery, and that means learning to walk before you start running or making your craziest batch. “Good results come from continuous improvement – the process of commissioning, test brewing and production brewing can be undertaken with this mindset,” says Julian Sanders, founder of Spark Breweries and Distilleries. “Small adjustments should never finish. Although you should be prepared to dump your first batch, there is no reason that you should need to with an appropriate setup, cleaning and commissioning process. Plan for your first batch to be good, and the worst batch that you’ll ever brew.” It is more than likely that this won’t be the first brewing equipment that you
ISSUE 47 SUMMER 2018
have used, but it is important to remember that this is the first$9.95 time (NZ you’ve PRICE $11.95) used this particular system, with all its idiosyncrasies and different requirements. It is
ALL THE BEST BITS FROM THE ANHC (see page 74) >>>
unlikely that you’ll be able to simply replicate exactly what you’ve been doing on
* Additional costs apply for New Zealand.
FRESH BLOOD
previous systems. You need to take things slowly, test them out, and work out what
INCLUDING
the equipment is telling you.
“We still don’t know if 67°C on our mash tun is 67°C, but we know the attenuation
Australia’s it will give us at the end, so it doesn’t really matter,” saysDiscover Rhys Lopez, brewer at newest breweries Otherside Brewing. “It takes a couple of batches of the same beer to really figure 36
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ISSUE 47 SUMMER 2018 PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95)
St Andrews Brewery with FBPROPAK
SESSION BEERS
SUMMER 2018
37
Why less is more
FRESH BLOOD
BALTER’S
Discover Australia’s newest breweries
SESSION BEERS
BEST
Why less is more
BALTER’S
BEST
Scott Hargrave soars in 2019 Beer & Brewer Awards
Scott Hargrave soars in 2019 Beer & Brewer Awards ISSN 1834-5115
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