Memphis - January 2024 by Contemporary Media

WEDDING ALBUM | 901 HEALTH | LOCAL TREASURES | COLETTA’S

MAGAZINE

USA $5.99

VOL XLVIII NO 1 0 | J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 4

Meet theYoungs. To know new mayor Paul Young, you need to know his family of faith and community leaders.

B Y

DAV I D

WAT E R S

DISPLAY UNTIL FEBRUARY 10, 2024

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JULIETTE MIDDLETON

-MOORE MOORE r e a l t o r guidance to clients while helping AS A RESIDENTIAL SPECIALIST with a deep understanding of what makes the Mid-South unique, I have acquired extensive knowledge of our local real estate market, neighborhoods, and pricing trends. I pride myself on providing personalized

them navigate the selling process with ease. With a focus on delivering exceptional customer service, I strive to ensure sellers achieve their desired outcomes in a timely manner. Licensed in Tennessee and Mississippi.

901.277.0476 Juliette@MooreDeals4U.com | www.MooreDeals4U.com

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Make My Funeral Arrangements Now?

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MEMPHIS FUNERAL HOME Trusted by Generations Since 1931. 5599 Poplar Avenue ♦ 3700 North Germantown Parkway ♦ 901.725.0100 www.MemphisFuneralHome.net

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Y O U R G E TAWAY Y O U R H O M E C O M I N G South Walton’s turquoise water, 26 miles of sugar-white sand, a nd 1 6 b ea ch n eigh b or h o o ds in N or thwest Flor id a ef for tles sly blend natural beauty, modern amenities , world class cuisine, and s m a l l tow n c h a r m t h a t d r aw ge n e r a t i o n s to ge t h e r ye a r af te r ye a r.

The premier provider of beach co ages and luxury homes and condos in South Walton. With nearly 40 years in the local market, Cottage Rental Agency offers exclusive amenities and exceptional guest experiences.

Co ageRentalAgency.com •

With accommodations from beach to bay, spanning the 2 , 4 0 0 -acre resor t , Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort® and Hotel Effie have something for every traveler. Discover championship golf, award-winning tennis, world class dining, shopping and so much more! Sandestin.com •

Relax in Edgewater Beach Condominium’s many expansive pools and panoramic views of the Gulf. French Riviera-inspired architecture, spacious grounds and a spectacular private beach create the perfect backdrop for your next escape. EdgewaterBeach.com •

The Camp Creek Inn experience is one of laid-back luxury. Guests enjoy the exclusive Watersound Club® lifestyle – including access to the area’s private golf courses, beach club, and other amenities. CampCreekInn.com •

MIRAMAR BEACH • SEASCAPE • SANDESTIN • DUNE ALLEN • GULF PLACE • SANTA ROSA BEACH • BLUE MOUNTAIN BEACH • GRAYTON BEACH • WATERCOLOR

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WHERE PERFEC T MEM O RIE S GR OW South Walton has a way of bringing people together. Annual traditions are born and special moments are handed down through generations. Find your perfect beach at VisitSouthWalton.com.

SEASIDE • SEAGROVE • WATERSOUND • SEACREST • ALYS BEACH • ROSEMARY BEACH • INLET BEACH

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We are thankful for our clients who joined us in the fight against childhood cancer and helped raise over $1,600,000 in donations to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital

, Realtors®

Your LUXURY is our LEGACY. collins-maury.com Collierville 968 Civic Center Drive, Suite 103 Collierville, TN 38017 (901) 259-8500

East Memphis 6263 Poplar Ave, Suite 220 Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 259-8550

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Each office is independently owned and operated.

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on the cover: Jamila and Paul Young PHOTOGRAPH BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

V O L X LV III N O 1 0 | J ANU A RY 2024

UP FRONT 10 F R O M T H E E D I T O R ~ b y a n n a t r a v e r s e 12 O U T A N D A B O U T ~ b y a b i g a i l m o r i c i 14 C L A S S I C D I N I N G ~ b y m i c h a e l d o n a h u e 16 A S K V A N C E ~ b y v a n c e l a u d e r d a l e 19 9 0 1 H E A L T H ~ b y j a n e s c h n e i d e r

FEATURES 26 Meet the Youngs

To know new mayor Paul Young, you need to know his family of faith and community leaders. ~ b y d av i d wat e r s

34 A R T S 43

Ruby O’Gray Have I got a story to tell you … ~ b y j o n w . s p a r k s I Do. A Memphis Wedding Album.

57 L O C A L T R E A S U R E S :

The Matriarch of Cooper-Young At 95, Doris Porter gets by with a little help from her friends. ~ by j a n e s c h n e i d e r

68 S I P S

Here Comes the Judge Allan Creasy found a home in the restaurant community. And politics.

~ by b r u c e va n w y n g a r d e n

70 D I N I N G O U T

The Public Bistro A neighborhood hangout with a hint of European sophistication. ~ by a l e x g r e e n e

72 C I T Y D I N I N G

The city’s most extensive dining listings.

80 L A S T S T A N D

When Trees Teach A walk among redwoods changes a person. And for the good. ~ b y f r a n k m u r ta u g h

Memphis Magazine (ISSN 1622-820x) is published monthly for $18 per year by Contemporary Media, Inc., P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101 © 2024. Telephone: 901-521-9000. For subscription info, call 901-575-9470. Subscription customer service mailing address is Memphis Magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101. All rights reserved. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Memphis, TN. Postmasters: send address changes to Memphis Magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101.

80 JANUARY 2024 • MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM • 7

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CEO AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF anna traverse EXECUTIVE EDITOR michael finger

STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE SINCE 1950

MANAGING EDITOR frank murtaugh SENIOR EDITORS samuel x. cicci, jon w. sparks,

Memphis Magazine's

bruce vanwyngarden

FACE

ASSOCIATE EDITOR abigail morici

THE 2023

CONTRIBUTORS michael donahue, alex greene,

vance lauderdale, chris mccoy,

ORIENTAL RUGS

jane schneider, david waters

4 EDITOR samuel x. cicci SENIOR EDITOR jon w. sparks

CREATIVE DIRECTOR brian groppe ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR christopher myers GRAPHIC DESIGNER neil williams PHOTOGRAPHERS ashley benham,

justin fox burks, samuel x. cicci, houston cofield, michael donahue, karen pulfer focht, alex green, chris mccoy, jackie mcginness, kathy mclallen, sharon murtaugh, ally perkins,

Hand Cleaning Appraisals Sales Reweaving Repairs Color Run Restoration Pet and other Stain Removals Moth Damage Odor Removal and much more

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE sloane patteson taylor ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES kelli dewitt, chip googe,

Spread love, not germs by having your rugs disinfected.

patrick pacheco

Here at Taghavi’s, we would like to do our part to help stop the spread of the novel COVID-19 virus. Recent studies have shown that the virus can be brought into your home, by your shoes and can live on surfaces like your rugs and floors anywhere from two to nine days. In order to help curb the spread, we at Taghavi’s, recommend that you stop wearing your outdoor shoes into your homes and to have your rugs cleaned and disinfected. Quality rug cleaning can only be accomplished by in-store professional rug cleaners. Call us for disinfecting and cleaning of your rugs.

Master Weaver Ali Taghavi restoring an antique Persian Farahan rug.

smash studios, jon w. sparks, anna traverse, bruce vanwyngarden

published by contemporary media, inc. memphis, tennessee 901-521-9000 subscriptions: 901-575-9470

CONTROLLER lynn sparagowski CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER jeffrey a. goldberg CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER margie neal DIGITAL SERVICES DIRECTOR kristin pawlowski ACCOUNTING AND CIRCULATION COORDINATOR mariah mccabe WAREHOUSE MANAGER chet hastings

3554 Park Avenue, Memphis, TN • (901) 327-5033 • taghavirugs.com

NEWSSTAND CONSULTANT joe luca SPECIAL EVENTS DIRECTOR molly willmott

PUBLISHER EMERITUS kenneth neill

Broadway Pizza House Legendary Pizza Since 1977

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2023

FACE

january 2024

2581 Broad Avenue (901) 454-7930

629 South Mendenhall

(901) 207-1546

PIZZA

member: City and Regional Magazine Association member: Circulation Verification Council 8 • MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM • JANUARY 2024

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Gossett Porsche

1875 Covington Pike Memphis, TN 38128 901-388-8989 gossett.porschedealer.com

2023 Porsche Cars North America, Inc. Porsche recommends seat belt usage and observation of tra c laws at all times. European model shown. Some options may not be available in the U.S.

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Every

HERO needs a

L E T T E R F R O M T H E E D I T O R | BY ANNA TR AVERSE

Let’s Leave the Lights On

mentor, every mentor needs a GUIDE.

anuary, again. The nights linger, long and lightless, and December’s festivities feel like dreams. Last month, my calendar swelled with holiday parties; this month, the little boxes are scrabbled with deadlines and meetings and goals. (Gross!) Worse, by the time you read this, chances are the twinkly lights in your neighborhood have been unhooked, coiled like hibernating snakes into cardboard boxes for the next 11 months.

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As I write, I’m perched (per usual) on the seventh floor of Crosstown Concourse, my writing/thinking spot of choice. String lights forming an extremely impressionistic ‘tree’ make magic among the metal and concrete. Strangers are more apt to smile, to wish each other happy holidays. This time of year — that of merry brightness — can be difficult in a lot of ways for a lot of us, but there are twinkles among the darkness. I’ve never understood why we’re so quick to pack all those twinkles away. By New Year’s Day, the sidewalks are littered with the evergreen trees, now not so evergreen, that just a few days earlier shone in strangers’ windows. The strings of lights that made celestial constellations of windows and eaves and late-blooming azaleas have been shaken loose and unplugged. The darkness is simply darkness again. I don’t imagine that I’ll change many minds about many things, not in this 800-word monthly column. Whatever your political leanings, your views on Israel and Gaza, on guns, on religion, on … any of it: You aren’t here to reexamine those facets of yourself. But maybe I can convince you to pause a little

longer before turning off the lights. Let your front porch sparkle a few weeks more; if you went to the trouble of spangling your home with tiny gleaming stars, leave them there until the daylight begins to lengthen once more. I bet your neighbors will be grateful: I know I will. Because admit it or not, I suspect we’re all a little bit afraid of the dark. What fear could be more natural? We can’t tell what or who lurks there; even the most familiar settings seem strange. A few strings of lights aren’t going to defang the dangers that lurk at night, it’s true. But they might help us feel ever so slightly less alone — because we don’t just illuminate our homes at the holidays for ourselves; we turn on the lights for each other, quietly but collectively. Maybe next Januar y, I’ll share my pitch about how we really ought to scatter our holiday parties throughout the dark winter months, rather than cramming all the year’s biggest gatherings into a two-week period. (Holiday party in early February, anyone?) But for now: I just hope you’ll leave the lights on. PHOTOGRAPH BY SANDAGO / DREAMSTIME

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OUT AND ABOUT IN MEMPHIS

JANUARY 2024

JO KOY: WORLD TOUR

Jo’s uniquely relatable comedy, inspired by his colorful family, has reached all kinds of people and has translated into sold-out arenas around the world. ORPHEUM THEATRE, 203 S. MAIN, JANUARY 13, 8 P.M., $42.50-$67.50

GRIZZLIES’ MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. DAY CELEBRATION

The Grizzlies honor and celebrate Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Day with one of the biggest sports events of the year. This year’s game will be against the Golden State Warriors. FEDEXFORUM, 191 BEALE, MONDAY, JANUARY 15, 5 P.M. A RAISIN IN THE SUN

Theatre Memphis presents Lorraine Hansberry’s classic story of a Chicago South Side Black family struggling with decisions that are meant to improve their station amid racial tension and family dissension. “REMY MILLER & JOE MORZUCH: MARKING TIME” “REMY MILLER AND JOE MORZUCH: MARKING TIME”

The Dixon presents an exhibition of paintings by Remy Miller and Joe Morzuch, longtime friends and former professors at Memphis College of Art. “The joint exhibition places two distinct bodies of work into counterpoint — Miller’s bold, impressively scaled gouache landscapes and Morzuch’s sensitive and introspective oil-on-canvas still lifes and self-portraits,” says the Dixon. COMPANY COMPANY

SCIENCE OF BEER

From the minds of Stephen Sondheim and George Furth, Company is a groundbreaking musical comedy, full of heart. It’s Bobbie’s 35th birthday party, and she’s about to discover why being single, being married, and being alive in the twenty-first century could drive a person crazy.

Taste some of Memphis’ best beer, talk to local brewers, attend mini lectures, and participate in other interactive beer-themed activities. MUSEUM OF SCIENCE & HISTORY, FRIDAY, JANUARY 12, 6:30 P.M.

The Memphis Symphony Orchestra, along with musician and singer Terry Mike Jeffrey, presents its annual Pops Concert featuring music the King brought to the Las Vegas stage.

Learn about the novelists, journalists, broadcasters, and poets of Memphis’ past in this presentation of Elmwood Cemetery’s history, presented by Sheena Barnett.

Reflect, honor, and celebrate Dr. King’s legacy. For the King Day celebration, the museum allows free entry. NATIONAL CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM, 450 MULBERRY, MONDAY, JANUARY 15, 8 A.M.-9 P.M.

GRACELAND SOUNDSTAGE, 3717 ELVIS PRESLEY BLVD., SATURDAY, JANUARY 6, 7-9 P.M. 2024 MLK DAYS OF SERVICE

ABBA REVISITED

THROUGHOUT MEMPHIS, THURSDAYMONDAY, JANUARY 11-15

BARTLETT PERFORMING ARTS & CONFERENCE CENTER, 3663 APPLING RD., SATURDAY, JANUARY 13, 3 P.M. & 7 P.M., $40

PLAYHOUSE ON THE SQUARE, 66 S. COOPER, JANUARY 19-FEBRUARY 18 IRIS SMALL BUSINESS SERIES

As part of Iris Collective’s Small Business Series, Music Box instructors will join Iris musicians to present a lively evening fusing classical and popular music. MUSIC BOX, 7516 CAPITAL DR., GERMANTOWN, TUESDAY, JANUARY 19, 7 P.M.

LIZ STORY WINDHAM HILL PIANIST LIZ STORY

Grammy nominee Liz Story hits the Buckman’s stage this January. One of the most distinctive female composers and solo pianists of new instrumental music that emerged in the 1980s, Story combines influences of contemporary jazz and classical genres. BUCKMAN ARTS CENTER AT ST. MARY’S EPISCOPAL SCHOOL, 60 PERKINS EXT., FRIDAY, JANUARY 19, 8 P.M., $40 CRAIG KARGES PRESENTS “EXPERIENCE THE EXTRAORDINARY!”

SCIENCE OF BEER

Volunteer Memphis presents a weeklong service event encouraging the city of Memphis to care like Dr. Martin Luther King. To stay up-todate, follow Volunteer Memphis’ social media accounts.

Witness the wonder of Charlie’s journey through Willy Wonka’s factory in this fantastical musical.

DIXON GALLERY AND GARDENS, 4339 PARK AVE., ON DISPLAY JANUARY 14-APRIL 14 THE PLOT THICKENS: THE WRITERS AND RACONTEURS OF ELMWOOD CEMETERY

ELMWOOD CEMETERY, 824 DUDLEY, SUNDAY, JANUARY 14, 2 P.M., $20 NATIONAL CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM KING DAY

ORPHEUM THEATRE, 203 S. MAIN, JANUARY 2-7, $29-$125 VIVA ELVIS BIRTHDAY POPS CONCERT

THEATRE MEMPHIS, 630 PERKINS EXT., JANUARY 19-FEBRUARY 4 CHARLIE AND THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY

ABBA Revisited has taken the iconic music and fashion of Swedish pop superstars ABBA across the globe, and now they’ll make their mark on BPACC’s stage.

Combining the art of magic with the science of psychology and the power of intuition, Karges creates extraordinary events, live, on stage. ABBA REVISITED

HALLORAN CENTRE, 225 S. MAIN, SATURDAY, JANUARY 20, 7:30 P.M., $39.50

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JUMAANE SMITH: LOUIS! LOUIS! LOUIS!

Acclaimed jazz trumpeter, vocalist, and composer Jumaane Smith celebrates the origins of jump blues and jazz with thrilling renditions of timeless classics from Louis Armstrong, Louis Prima, and Louis Jordan, along with music he composed especially for this show. GERMANTOWN PERFORMING ARTS CENTER, 1801 EXETER RD., SATURDAY, JANUARY 20, 8 P.M. C.S. LEWIS ON STAGE: FURTHER UP & FURTHER IN

Award-winning actor Max McLean presents a mesmerizing, one-of-akind stage experience that promises to take you further up and further into the heart and mind of author C.S. Lewis. ORPHEUM THEATRE, 203 S. MAIN, SUNDAY, JANUARY 21, 3 P.M., $49-$99 VARIATIONS ON A THEME

Opera Memphis presents a new series of intimate, curated evenings of music from across opera, musical theater, and vocal music in all its forms. This performance’s theme is “In the Words of Langston Hughes.”

Build A Monument To Life

INTEGRITY. QUALITY. SENSITIVITY. Our primary focus is on creating a “monument to life”, offering premium quality service for less. Our trained staff can help you with planning, designing and memorializing the life of your loved one. We are sensitive to the needs and feelings of the families we serve, which is very important in the selection process. While cemetery memorials are still our primary focus, our product offerings have grown to include cornerstones, commemorative plaques, brick fundraisers, commercial signage, civic monuments, cremation urns, cemetery inscriptions, and monument cleaning.

OPERA MEMPHIS, 216 S. COOPER ST., SATURDAY, JANUARY 27, 7:30 P.M. | SUNDAY, JANUARY 28, 3 P.M. RANKY TANKY WITH MS. LISA FISCHER

The soulful songs of the Gullah culture are brought to life by Ranky Tanky, a band of native South Carolinians who mix Lowcountry traditions with large doses of jazz, gospel, funk, and R&B. GERMANTOWN PERFORMING ARTS CENTER, 1801 EXETER RD., SATURDAY, JANUARY 27, 8 P.M. MEET THE AUTHOR: AVERY CUNNINGHAM

Memphis-based debut novelist Avery Cunningham celebrates the release of her novel, The Mayor of Maxwell Street. For the launch, Cunningham will speak at Novel with Tara Stringfellow, author of Memphis.

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2023

FACE OF

MONUMENTS

HONEST MONUMENT COMPANY

S I NC E 1 9 89 2040 Hernando Road, Memphis, TN 38106 • (901) 774-7400 honestmonumentco.com • honestmonument@gmail.com

NOVEL, 387 PERKINS EXT., TUESDAY, JANUARY 30, 6 P.M.

To suggest an event for future editions of Out and About, email abigail@memphismagazine.com. PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS: COMPANY BY BRINKHOFF MOGENBURG; SCIENCE OF BEER COURTESY MUSEUM OF SCIENCE & HISTORY; “REMY MILLER …” JOE MORZUCH, GARBAGE BAGS WITH FLAGS AND PLASTIC NETTING, 2017-2020; OIL ON CANVAS ON PANEL — COURTESY OF THE ARTIST; ABBA REVISITED COURTESY BPACC; LIZ STORY COURTESY BUCKMAN ARTS CENTER

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C L AS S I C

D I N I N G

Coletta’s Italian Restaurant

At this 100-year-old establishment, the more things change … Well, you know the rest. BY MICHAEL DONAHUE

top: Coletta’s Italian Restaurant on South Parkway in the 1930s. above: Jerry Coletta

ining at Coletta’s Italian Restaurant on South Parkway is like reuniting with old friends. You’re happy to see them, and no matter how many years have passed, you quickly slide into comfortable familiarity.

On a recent night at Coletta’s, folks enjoyed the famous lasagna, barbecue pizza, and other items. But so many aspects besides the food define the restaurant: There’s the red-padded bar, and the “Blue Room” with the concrete statue of the goddess Diana. There are two paintings by Italian artist Nello Jovine — one that owner Jerry Coletta calls

Gypsy Woman and the other Two Children — that hang in the main dining room. Coletta’s dad, the late Horest Coletta, bought them at a Memphis gallery. Another Jovine painting, which Jerry called Little Old Wine Drinker, was at the old Summer Avenue location, but it burned along with that version of the restaurant in a 1996 fire.

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Then there’s “The Elvis Room,” with its cardboard cutout of Elvis in his gold lamé suit and other memories of the King. The main dining room originally was the living quarters for the Coletta family when Jerry’s grandfather, Emil Coletta, owned the restaurant. Emil, an Italian immigrant, “came over to Ellis Island in 1918,” says Jerry. “My grandfather started the place. We’re celebrating the 100th anniversary this year.” In addition to selling Italian food, Emil “made his own ice cream. And he’d go around the neighborhood selling ice cream bars.” Emil originally called his business the “Suburban Ice Cream Co.” because it was located in what were once the Memphis suburbs. In the late ’40s, Horest took over the restaurant. He stopped making ice cream and switched to Italian food. Asked if the restaurant looks the same now as it did in the early days, Jerry says, “Heavens no. We have pictures of the old building and it almost looked like a shack back in the ’20s. In the early ’50s, we remodeled the place, put on a brick exterior, and changed the looks quite a bit.” The bar, which was added in the 1970s, is located in the oldest part of Coletta’s. “That’s the original restaurant,” he says, “where the bar is today.” Horest moved out of the restaurant in the late 1940s and “we changed the living quarters into the dining room.” “The Blue Room” was also added in the ’70s. “It was my mother’s idea,” says Jerry. “She had been in New Orleans, and we copied it after the lobby of that city’s Saenger Theatre. It was supposed to look like an outdoor patio.” Jerry began working at the restaurant when he was 7 or 8 years old. “As a young boy,” he recalls, “I used to stand on Coca-Cola cases and cashier for my dad.” The recipes are basically the same as when Emil owned the

restaurant. “Some of them have been adapted a little bit,” says Jerry, “but my dad added pizza in the early ’50s. We had sailors from the Millington navy base come in and they were asking for pizza. And my dad didn’t know what pizza was. Back then they only had it in Chicago and New York. It was a new type of food for America. He went to Chicago to learn how to make pizza and he put it on the menu.” When it wasn’t selling well, Horest “came up with the idea of barbecue pizza. That sparked interest in pizza. It remains our signature item today. And it was Elvis’ favorite pizza.” When Elvis was alive, Priscilla used to “be in every week bringing pizzas back to Graceland.” Priscilla Presley still stops by the restaurant when she’s in town. “About a year before her death, Lisa Marie was in,” says Jerry. “They both signed menus for us.” Chicken wings, which Coletta’s introduced to the menu 15 or 20 years ago, are their most recent addition. “We kept getting requests for them.” Coletta’s opened a second location at 4940 Summer Avenue in 1954, but didn’t rebuild on that site after the structure burned in ’96. Instead, they opened the 2850 Appling Road location in November 1998. Stephen and Lisa Coletta, and Kristina Coletta Holland, children of Jerry and his wife, Diana (who worked at the South Parkway location for 25 years), run the place. The food, decor, and ambience aren’t all that stays the same on South Parkway. The restaurant has many long-time employees, including Sharlene Burns, who has worked at Coletta’s for 51 years. “I started out as a waitress,” says Sharlene, 70. “Then bartending, and then wound up having keys to the restaurant at an early age managing it. I do it all. A jack of all trades.” What sets Coletta’s apart from other restaurants? “It’s just like a family,” says Sharlene. “And they treat you like family.” Coletta’s is located at 10 63 South Parkway East, and 2850 Appling Road .

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL DONAHUE; AUTHOR PHOTOGRAPH BY KATHY MCLALLEN

12/14/23 6:34 PM

Healthy Tennesseans. Thriving Communities.

Every day, our faculty, staff, students, and alumni focus on improving the health of Tennessee. We are training the health care workforce for the future. We are providing care at major hospitals across Tennessee today. Our researchers are seeking out the cures of tomorrow.

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uthsc.edu

12/12/23 5:06 PM

AS K

left: Customers admired the new Fords at the grand opening of Oakley Ford in 1954. below: Gift-wrapping cars was one of Oakley’s eye-catching promotions.

VA N C E

Oakley Ford Our history expert solves local mysteries: who, what, when, where, why, and why not. Well, sometimes.

BY VANCE L AUDERDALE

DEAR VANCE: When I was growing up, my family only drove Ford automobiles, and I remember going with my father to view the latest models at our favorite dealership, Oakley Ford. Please settle a family dispute. I recall visiting that dealership on Poplar, but my brother insists it was on Union. Oakley is no longer in business, so we turn to you for help.

— L .B., MEMPHIS.

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DEAR L.B.: I generally avoid jumping into family squabbles, but in this case you and your brother are both right. Oakley sold Fords at Union and Poplar. For that matter, they also had a dealership on Lamar, and later opened one on Stage Road. It’s interesting — to me, anyway — that so many car dealers stayed in that business for their entire lives. With new models coming out each year, and each manufacturer touting different models, colors, features, and prices, every dealer faced the risk of longtime customers lured away to competitors. Oscar Oakley fell in love with cars at early age. You didn’t ask, but I’m going to tell you about him anyway because some of his sales promotions were quite unusual. Born in Michigan City, Michigan, in 1906, he came to Memphis with his family as a youngster, and graduated from Memphis Technical High School. In his teens, he held odd jobs with neighborhood grocers, but in 1925, at the age of 19, found his true calling. He began working in the service department of a Dodge dealership here and

moved up to manage the parts department. He soon became a salesman, and then distribution manager for all Dodge dealers throughout West Tennessee. In 1929, he began selling cars for the Oldsmobile Motor Works, and three years after that he joined the sales staff of Kensinger Chevrolet. Every few years, it seems, he went with a different manufacturer, and in 1938 he was named sales manager of HullDobbs Ford, the largest Ford dealership in America. Oakley was later named vice president, then general manager, traveling across the contiguous United States and to Hawaii and Puerto Rico, supervising the network of dealerships owned by James K. Dobbs and Horace Hull. In 1954, though, he decided to branch out on his own, selling Ford cars and trucks at the Oakley Motor Company at 1048 Union, in the heart of our city’s “Auto Row.” The two-day grand opening — held 70 years ago this month, on January 15-16, 1954 — was quite an event. Present and potential customers received engraved invitations, and local newspapers ran full-page ads announcing the occasion. The Lauderdale Library has photographs of crowds jammed into the showroom, where banners promised “Door Prizes Every Hour! Flowers, Balloons, Cokes, and Ice Cream!” What’s more, they promised customers “The Finest Deal Ever Offered on a New Car.” This was just the beginning of the unusual promotions I mentioned earlier. Full-page newspaper ads kept readers informed about Oakley’s daily inventory and promised, “We have 25 courteous salesmen to serve you!” What’s intriguing is the dealership’s desire for older cars “for our Texas and California markets.” When Oakley formed his own company, he maintained his connection with Hull-Dobbs. Instead of regarding them as

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF OAKLEY FORD; NEWSPAPER CLIPPING COURTESY OF THE COMMERCIAL APPEAL

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business rivals, he became part of the Hull-Dobbs Supervision Service, where he oversaw dealers in other states and helped them locate cars at the best prices. The man stayed busy. Oakley’s newspapers ads, always big and bold, were hard to miss. One year, an eyecatching ad admitted, “We fell short — 299 cars sold in March — but we WILL sell 350 new Fords in April or BUST!!” What’s more, “Oakley will give MORE for your used car than ANYONE — ANYWHERE, and we will stay open UNTIL EVERYBODY GOES HOME!” A not her ad pr act ica l ly shouted, “HERE WE GO!” and promised, “We’re off again on one of our wildest spending sprees! ONE HUNDRED factory-fresh 1955 Fords WILL BE SOLD before midnight!” Oh, and “No offer will be too ridiculous!” Gosh, it just tires me out to think of the hard-working sales staff who had to meet these promises. But the print ads were just part of their campaign. Every year, Oakley plastered his display windows on Union with signs proclaiming, “IT’S HERE NOW!” — meaning the new models — but customers didn’t just walk in and find cars lined up, as one would today. No, one year, he actually gift-wrapped the vehicles. Each car was boxed inside a giant clear plastic container, a red bow on top, with a tag urging customers, “Give your family a Ford from Oakley.” They didn’t confine their stunts to the showroom. One year, Oakley lined up more than two dozen new cars in Overton Park for a photograph for the newspapers. Individual salesmen were invited to decorate cars as they pleased. One painted a dachshund — you know, the little weenie-dogs — on the sides of his car, with a sign promising “Long Trades.” Another painted “Oakley Ford”

and “Dubs McMillen” (his name) on his car, along with a banner, “Stop me for a demonstration.” Last November, I shared the history of the Parkview Hotel. Remember it? The lovely grounds were often used for various sales promotions — for cars and other products — and in 1955 Oakley displayed a new Ford Thunderbird outside the main entrance, painted in an eye-catching Scotch plaid color scheme. Strangest of all, perhaps, was the “Talking ’54 Ford” which they somehow managed to park on the second floor of Goldmith’s Department Store on Main Street. Customers were invited to “See and Hear!” the car, which I presume offered a recording of the vehicle’s various features. A mannequin stood next to the vehicle, clad in a “Motor-Mate Coat to Match Your Car.” In 1959, Oakley expanded, opening a dealership at 2253 Lamar, called Oakley East. Promoted as “The Big Ford Supermarket,” it stayed in business until 1974, when it became Tom Bell’s Chevyland. As the years passed, the car business in Memphis involved complicated mergers, dealership moves, and family connections. Oakley remained on Union until 1972, when he teamed up with Thomas Keesee, a vice president at Hull-Dobbs. Known to his friends as Buddy, Keesee earned a law degree from Ole Miss, and during World War II, newspa-

pers reported that he served as a special agent with the FBI. After the war, he worked here as an attorney, before he switched to the car business. When he joined Oakley, they decided to move their dealership — now called Oakley-Keesee Ford — to a larger space at 2700 Poplar. Within a few years, they opened a second location just a bit farther east, at 2883 Poplar, a former Hull-Dobbs dealership, closing their operations on Union and Lamar. Oscar Oakley, who had sold cars for almost half a century, passed away in 1973, just one year after the move to Poplar. Newspapers described him as “the man known around the country as a super-salesman for Fords.” Keesee kept that dealership open until 1996, when he moved to a 12-acre site on Stage Road, just west of the new Wolfchase Galleria. He passed away in 1998, at age 84. Members of his family took over the business, but here we come full circle again: It became a Dobbs Ford for a few years, but is now AutoNation Ford, part of a national chain. The old Oakley-Keesee Ford dealership at Poplar and Collins was turned into a self-storage facility. The Lamar dealership site is now a Walgreen’s. No trace of the original Oakley Motor Company has survived; the site on Union was demolished to make way for the expressway.

above left: An unusually painted Ford Thunderbird, complete with a Scottish driver, was another Oakley sales promotion. above: A 1954 newspaper clipping was the only photo I could find showing Oscar Oakley.

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EASE THOSE FROWN LINES

otox is a toxin that temporarily paralyzes muscles, thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Botox injections can help soften crow’s feet, furrowed brows, and those vertical lines that form between the eyes. As a dermatologist with Memphis Dermatology Clinic, Dr. Emily Overholzer has seen consumer practices change during her 10-year career. “I’ve noticed a shift towards preventative procedures,” she says. Young women in their 20s and 30s are requesting toxins and fillers in hopes of slowing down the aging process. “Some do Botox now to prevent deep wrinkles that might come with age,” she says. Overholzer says your skin naturally loses its elasticity from age and sun damage. A dermatologist can assess your skin condition and help create a personalized care plan. “My goal is to not make you look frozen and half your age but to look well-rested at any age,” she says.

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THE PROCEDURE: It may feel akin to a strong sunburn the first few hours after the treatment. But the initial discomfort will gradually lessen. Some downtime is required to ensure your skin recovers completely. Depending on the laser’s strength, there are possible side effects and risks. Review these issues with your dermatologist. 22 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 4

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Meet theYoungs. To know new mayor Paul Young, you need to know his family of faith and community leaders. B Y

D AV I D

WAT E R S

n New Year’s Day 1992, a Memphis minister brought his two young sons to the brand-new Pyramid on the Mississippi River. The shimmering Downtown arena had opened six weeks before with a farewell concert by the Judds, followed by a seasonopener for the Memphis Tigers. Bishop William Young and his sons, 12-year-old Paul and 8-year-old David, weren’t there to hear music or watch basketball. They went to the Pyramid with about 15,000 other people to see Dr. Willie W. Herenton sworn in as the city’s 61st mayor — and first elected Black mayor.

Mayor Paul Young PHOTOGRAPH BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

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Meet theYoungs.

above: A Kappa Alpha Psi tailgate party at the Southern Heritage Classic, probably in 2015. William was proud that his sons were all Kappas. They had a tradition of attending this game together.

“This is truly the dawn of a new era,” Herenton said as he stood in the building that over the past three decades has served as a vision for the city’s future, a monument to failed hopes and dreams, and a symbol of reclamation and recovery. David was mesmerized. The new mayor was so confident, so articulate, so tall. Paul’s reaction was more measured. Politics didn’t interest him. He wanted to be an engineer. He was more aware of his father’s reaction. William Young was five years younger than Herenton, but they knew each other. Both men attended Booker T. Washington High. Both men graduated from LeMoyne-Owen College. “My dad was so proud,” says Paul, now 44. “Proud to see a Black man become mayor, a man he knew and had respect for, a man he knew from the neighborhood. He wanted his sons to see that. I didn’t know or understand the gravity of the mayor’s role at the time, but being there showed me that great things are possible.” The gravity of the mayor’s role has come into sharp focus for Paul Young. On New Year’s Day 2024, he was sworn in as the 65th mayor of Memphis. In last October’s city election, Paul received only a fifth of the number of votes Herenton got in 1991. But he ran against half a dozen other legitimate contenders — including

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“It’s time… to create transformation that’s going to take us from hopelessness to hopeful; from poverty to prosperity; from hurt to healed; from stalled to thriving.”

now-83-year-old Herenton, who finished third. “It’s time for us to write the next pages of Memphis history,” Paul said in his victory speech at Minglewood Hall. In the speech he talked about the transformation he hopes to lead as mayor, “a transformation that’s going to take us from hope— PAU L YO U N G lessness to hopeful; from poverty to prosperity; from hurt to healed; from stalled to thriving.” Paul is the son of two preachers, but he isn’t known for such rhetorical flourishes. His college major, at the University of Tennessee in Knoxville, was electrical engineering. He’s spent most of the past two decades working as a government administrator. His mayoral campaign was his first bid for public office. “Less than two years ago, I’m sure very few people in Memphis visualized Paul Young as the next mayor. Most people had never heard of him,” says Otis Sanford, the veteran Memphis journalist and political PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY PAUL YOUNG FAMILY

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commentator. “He ran an effective campaign, the best one of all the candidates stressing his experience in city government, his family background, and his deep roots in Memphis. Plus, people were clamoring for change and to get away from the same old recycled politicians. Simply put, Paul Young fit the bill of a new generation of leadership, and he had no baggage that turned off voters. He was the right person running at the right time.” At the right time, and in the right place. Paul’s mayoral campaign was the product of generations of hard work and sacrifice, faith, hope, and love. It also was the product of a city still striving to overcome generations of poverty, racism, doubt, and despair.

aul Young grew up in Oakhaven, an often-overlooked neighborhood just south and east of Memphis International Airport. The neighborhood sprouted in the 1950s from a large, multi-phase subdivision called Kensington Gardens, filled with comfortable, affordable three- and four-bedroom homes. In 1964, Oakhaven was annexed by Memphis, along with Parkway Village, its neighbor to the east. The city added Oakhaven Elementary and Oakhaven Park to the growing neighborhood’s middle-class amenities. Meanwhile, the expanding airport annexed parts of Oakhaven. The city actually moved Swinnea Road a half-mile to the east and through the heart of Kensington Gardens, shaving streets, homes, and trees from the neighborhood’s western edge. Paul’s parents, William and Dianne Young, moved into a lovely two-story house in Kensington Gardens across the street from Oakhaven High in 1976, just after they were married. Their mortgage was $298 a month. “We thought we were not going to be able to pay that bill, but we managed,” Dianne says. “It already was a changing neighborhood when we moved in.” In the early 1970s, Oakhaven — like many other areas of Memphis — was vexed by busing, white flight, and the rise of church-based private schools, including Oakhaven Academy, which opened at Oakhaven

Baptist Church in 1974. Paul, who was born in 1979, saw first-hand how public policies and private decisions can alter neighborhoods. “I didn’t have the language to understand it at the time,” he says. “But what I saw was that something’s not right. Something’s off about what’s happening to my community. I could see that more houses were vacant, more businesses were gone. I literally watched the distress take place. And there are so many neighborhoods in our city that have suffered the same fate.” Because of its proximity to the airport, Oakhaven was spared the sort of de-industrialization and disinvestment that wracked North and South Memphis, Frayser, and Whitehaven. FedEx’s towering hangar looms over the northern edge of the neighborhood. UPS’s massive Oakhaven Distribution Center sits on the eastern edge along Swinnea Road. Still, the neighborhood has been challenged. “In parts of Oakhaven,” a county land use study reported in 1990, “the sense of community stability has weakened.” The Youngs didn’t shelter or remove their children from those instabilities. They addressed them head on.

hen Paul Young was two years old, his father became the first African-American chaplain for Methodist Hospital. When Paul was seven, his father became the founding pastor of a church in Bolivar, Tennessee, where he had served as chaplain at Western State Mental Institute. And when Paul was 11, his mother left

above: The Young family today: Paul, Jamila, Zoe, and Paxton. left: Thanksgiving 2021 at Paul’s house was the last one they all celebrated together before William’s death in 2022. The group includes members of the Young and Marshall families, including one of William’s sisters and one of Dianne’s sisters.

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Meet theYoungs.

above: Thanksgiving 2023 was their second one without William, but their first with Paul as the Mayor-elect. right: Rev. Dianne Young became co-pastor of the Healing Center in 1991. Rev. David Young, Paul’s younger brother, became co-pastor in 2022.

the U.S. Postal Service to join his father as co-founding pastors of the Healing Center Full Gospel Baptist Church in Oakhaven. “Our babies were drug babies for real,” says Paul’s mother, Dianne. “We drug them from one church thing to the next one.” The new congregation moved into the old Oakhaven Baptist Church and Academy. “We didn’t have that many folks,” she recalls. “We’ve never been a huge congregation, but we’ve always done huge things.” Over the next 30 years, Dr. William Young and Rev. Dianne Young, both licensed pastoral counselors, dedicated their ministries to healing minds, bodies, and souls in their congregation, their neighborhood,

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and across the community. “The Youngs have done more than anyone in Memphis, and maybe anyone in the Black church, to remove the stigma from mental health,” says Dr. Altha Stewart, a Memphis psychiatrist at UTHSC. In 2003, the Youngs organized the first National Suicide and the Black Church Conference, now held every other year at the University of Tennessee Health Sciences Center in Memphis. In 2008, they opened the Emotional Fitness Center, a network of state-funded, church-based counseling centers that provide free mental health screenings, support groups, access to nurse practitioners, and referrals to Memphis-area mental health services. “Mental health care gives people hope,” William Young said in 2015, “and the church is in the hope business.” For the Youngs, the hope business extended beyond the church into their home and neighborhood. Every now and then, someone in crisis would need a place to stay, and the Youngs would invite them to stay in their home for a few days or weeks. “They were such empathetic leaders,” Paul reflects. “When people had substance-abuse issues, or just issues period, down on their luck, my parents would help them get back on their feet. Having someone in need in our home was just something that was natural to us.” The Youngs also became surrogate parents for many “Mental health care children in the neighborgives people hope, and hood. William ran mentoring programs for neighthe church is in the borhood boys. Paul and hope business.” David participated. “We’d be at the church — WI LLIAM YOU NG every Saturday morning playing basketball in the gym,” Paul says. “But at some point, my dad would come in, tell us to drop the balls and sit and listen. We’d have this mentoring and counseling session right there on the court. There were so many of my friends that didn’t have their fathers in

TOP LEFT PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY PAUL YOUNG FAMILY; ALL OTHER PHOTOGRAPHS BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

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their lives, at least not in the way they wanted them to be. My dad tried to fill that role.” One day, Paul was hanging out with a group of young men in the neighborhood. Some were troubled. Some were trouble. Paul’s father found out where Paul was and jumped in his car. “Those guys were getting ready to jump a fence and go into an apartment complex,” Dianne says. “William made Paul get in the car. ‘You won’t do that,’ William told him. ‘You know I did not raise you like that. You will not become a casualty.’ Not long after that, one of the young men was shot and killed in one of the apartments. We didn’t shelter them [the Young children], but we did raise them to do right.”

he Youngs gave each of their children Biblical names. Dorcas, Paul’s older sister, was named for one of Jesus’ first followers, known for her “good works and acts of mercy.” Paul, the quiet middle child, was named for the first-century apostle who spread the teachings of Jesus. And David, Paul’s younger brother, was named for the brave shepherd who became a King of Israel and the “sweet psalmist” of Hebrew scripture. “I’m little bro and big bro all at once,” says Paul, a hip-hop fan, repeating lyrics from a 2019 song by rapper J. Cole. Little bro and his sister both graduated from East High School. “They were always close and always very competitive,” their mother says. “Dorcas studied really hard, but Paul was just a natural. He always got good grades.” “I’m still the smartest” Dorcas Young Griffin, director of the Division of Community Services for Shelby County, says with a laugh. “Paul’s more level-headed like Mom. I’m more fiery like Dad. When I started to drive, Dad wouldn’t let me go out by myself. I’d have to take Paul with me. I got so used to having him with me, when I snuck out of the house, I took Paul. He was very responsible. He got into trouble sometimes, but he always considered the implications, even as a kid.”

Big bro and his little brother, David, who graduated from Ridgeway High, where he played football, competed in other ways. “Paul and David, they used to just argue all the time,” says their mom. “We had this support group that I was conducting called healing for damaged emotions for youth. I said, ‘Y’all are going to “There were so many of the group because I’m just my friends that didn’t not going to have a house like this.’ So I took them to have their fathers in the group. They still have their lives, at least not friends from that group.” “Paul would get on my in the way they wanted last nerve,” says Rev. Da- them to be. My dad tried vid Young, now co-pastor of the Healing Center, “but to fill that role.” I always looked up to him — P A U L Y O U N G and he always protected me. I’ve never known anyone who had such a calm, even temperament. He was calm even when he got angry, which was almost never. Nothing riles him. I’m more temperamental like my dad. Of course,” he adds with a laugh, “I was Dad’s favorite child. They all know that I was the favorite.” Dianne says she and her husband raised their children to find ways to serve. “They all have servant hearts,” she smiles. “David became the preacher, but all three of them have been called to some kind of ministry.” A dozen years ago, Dorcas began hosting a daily morning prayer line. She started with a few family members and friends. Now, at 6:30 every morning, dozens of people join a conference call and pray with Dorcas for each other, for others who are named, and for Memphis. “Some of the people on the call now, I’ve never met,” she says. “It’s been the best journey of my life.” Paul’s ministry? “I think this is his calling,” Dianne says. “Being the mayor of Memphis for such a time as this, because it’s a tough time for the city. It’s a tough time, but Paul is prepared. I’m not worried that politics will change Paul. I think he’ll change politics in Memphis.”

below: The Youngs at the Healing Center Full Gospel Baptist Church on the Sunday before Thanksgiving. At the end of the service, the congregation prayed for the new Mayor-elect, his family, and for Memphis.

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Meet theYoungs.

above: Paul and his wife, Jamila, have five graduate degrees between them. Paul has master’s degrees in city and regional planning and in business administration, real estate and finance; Jamila has master’s degrees in pediatric nursing and public health, and a doctorate in nursing practice and pediatric nursing. opposite page: Rev. Dianne Young says all three of her children “have servant hearts … and have been called to some kind of ministry.”

aul Young has two other older siblings, half-brother William Jr., and half-sister Maya, both children of William Sr.’s first marriage. William Jr., who suffers from paranoid-schizophrenia, has experienced many years of living unhoused in the Nashville area, despite the family’s diligent efforts to help him find shelter and healthcare. “It’s been tough for him and for everyone,” Paul says. “And it’s given all of us a first-hand view of how complicated an issue like homelessness is, and how it impacts not just individuals but whole families and communities.” Paul likes to work on complex problems. He grew up wanting to be an engineer. “He wanted to be like Dwayne Wayne,” Dianne says. Wayne was a main character in A Different World, a popular and lauded late-’80s, early-’90s TV sitcom about students at a historically black college. The character, played by actor Kadeem Hardison, was praised as a positive portrayal of a Black male college student. Wayne was a bespectacled, sort of nerdy, and flirty math and engineering major. As a kid, bespectacled Paul liked to take things apart and put them back together. He liked to figure out how things worked and why they didn’t. “He loved to fix things,” Dianne says. “He was our little fixer. Now he’s got bigger things to fix.” After graduating in 2002 from UT with a degree in electrical engineeering, Paul came home to look for a job. “I just couldn’t find the engineering gig that I needed or wanted; I was so frustrated,” he remembers. “Then my mom preached that sermon.” “That sermon” changed the trajectory of Paul’s life and the course of Memphis history. The sermon was based on The Purpose Driven Life, a popular and influential 2002 Bible study book by Christian pastor Rick Warren. “It’s not about you,” Warren writes in the book’s first sentence. “You were made by God for a mission.” “That’s what my mom said in her sermon,” Paul says. “God’s plan for your life will never be about you. It

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will be about helping others. And it was like, bam, that was it. It made me think. I thought about how my community looked and how I wanted to help change the neighborhood and the community. It was one of those bright-light moments.” That moment sent Paul on a mission to find his mission. He found it in a University of Memphis graduate school catalog: A master’s degree in city and regional planning, promised the catalog, “prepares students for careers concerned with the physical development of communities, and the interaction of that development with the social, economic, and environmental well-being of communities.” Paul enrolled in the program and got a job as a planner for the Memphis and Shelby County Division of Planning and Development. He also began to learn about “wicked problems,” a concept that was introduced in a class on urban anthropology. A “wicked problem” is so complex, multifaceted, ever-changing, and entangled with other “wicked problems” that it is difficult, if not impossible, to solve. Urban public policy is full of wicked problems: poverty, crime, public education, access to healthcare, affordable housing and homelessness, and so on. ”These problems are “He [Paul] loved to fix so complex and connected, you attempt things. He was our little one solution and that fixer. Now he’s got bigger presents so many others things to fix.” challenges, so many unintended consequenc— D I A N N E YO U N G es,” Paul says. “But I believe they can and must be addressed. I’ve spent the past 20 years working on problems like distressed housing and neighborhoods. Those are wicked problems.”

n 2017, Paul Young presided over the demolition of his father’s childhood home. “We want to take blighted properties in this community and activate them,” Paul, then the city’s Director of Housing and Community Development, told a crowd that included his parents, all gathered outside Foote Homes. The city’s last major housing project was demolished and replaced by a $279 million mixeduse, mixed-income development called South City. Herman and Eva Young, Paul’s grandparents, were among the first residents of Foote Homes, which opened in 1940 as the city’s first public-housing development. William Young grew up there. He was so skinny his friends called him Twig. Twig went on to graduate seventh in his class at Booker T. Washington in 1963. He enrolled at Tennessee State University, where he joined the Kappa Alpha Psi fraternity. He was drafted in 1969 and sent to Vietnam. He finished his bachelor’s degree at LeMoyne-Owen College and later earned a Master of Divinity degree at Memphis Theological Seminary and a doctorate in ministry at North Carolina Theological Seminary. PHOTOGRAPHS BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

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Dianne, Paul’s mother, grew up in a house in South Memphis near LeMoyne-Owen. Their prominent and socially active neighbors included the Willis, Sugarmon, and Fanion families. Dianne’s father, Square Marshall, was a shop steward and a deacon at New Salem Missionary Baptist Church 4th Street, a block west of Mason Temple. Dianne and her mother, Lillie Mae Marshall, marched with Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. in 1968. “We were going to go to Mason Temple to hear him preach the night before he was killed, but there was a terrible storm that night and Mom would not let us go,” Dianne says. After high school, Dianne got a job at the post office where her older sister, Helen (now Helen Whalum Rogers), worked; both sisters married preachers. Helen married Kenneth Whalum Sr., who became a church pastor and city council member, and she became the first Black female postmaster in Tennessee. “The way Paul snuck up on the general

public [during the election], most people probably didn’t know we are cousins, and that was probably a good thing for him,” Rev. Dr. Kenneth Whalum Jr., the outspoken former school board member, says with a laugh. “We’re all proud of him. Paul was certainly the most educated and qualified candidate for mayor.” During his campaign, Paul learned about another Memphis family connection at a campaign event for Meggan Wurzburg Kiel, a city council candidate. Meggan is related to Jocelyn Dan Wurzburg, a noted local attorney and civil rights activist. “I found out that my grandmother helped to raise all of Jocie’s kids,” Paul says. Jocie Wurzburg has fond memories of the late Lillie Mae Marshall. “She was a remarkable woman,” Wurzburg says. “She ran my house while I was in law school. In another place and time, she could have been a lawyer herself, or the CEO of some company — or the mayor.”

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A R T S

Ruby O’Gray Have I got a story to tell you … BY JON W. SPARKS

uby O’Gray would be perfect doing the role of Ruby O’Gray in a one-woman show. It’s not just that she knows the material. It’s the role of a lifetime. This is the era of her 70s, which is to say she’s 74 and has written 78 plays. That theatrical output — and more — comes with recognition, including the 2023 Ostrander Awards, where she received the prestigious Eugart Yerian Lifetime Achievement Award for representing “the spirit of change and evolution.” In 2017, Women of Achievement honored O’Gray and Karen Moore for their visionary efforts in creating The Women’s Theatre Festival of Memphis. The festival’s inaugural event was in 2012 and has celebrated the work done by women in the theatrical world. And the festival established the Gyneka Awards presented to women in theater who have been making a difference. O’Gray’s story, of course, is not about her awards but about the road taken that resulted in the attention and honors she’s received. And nobody is better than this superb storyteller to share her own story. Imagine you’re in a theater looking at a stage that’s described in the program as “her place.” It could, in fact, be anywhere since she dominates any location she happens to occupy. Imagine that she’s just invited you in, has you sit down, and is looking at you with her friendly face and lively eyes that are promising to share some memorable tales.

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PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: PLAYBILLS COURTESY RUBY O’GRAY; BACKGROUND BY LAPAND / DREAMSTIME

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It begins with a voiceover:

My mother passed away at 42. I was 17 years old. I was a dropout in school because of it. [Ruby rolls onstage in her wheelchair, taking her time.]

n those years, I was the only girl between five boys — two older brothers and three after. And so I was kind of tomboy-ish, tough. I had to be, or else they would’ve beat me up. I couldn’t talk to my brothers. But my mom indoctrinated me with movies. I had to find fantasy because there was nobody to play dolls with me or anything like that. I had a really big imagination and didnt know it. I thought everybody acted the I wrote songs. I wrote,same just wrote, that way. because So she there gotwas me not watching a lot I could movies talk about to other people. with her. And when I watched them, I saw people Mama also let me know all ofI’m the74greatest singers who were fromabout the 1930s. now and that’s what was on television at that time.and Nobody would bother of color. It was true that I liked Dinah Shore that was because sheme had Mahalia Jackson because on. Anybody Mama who waswould watching haveitsomebody with me on that our was of my nationality black-and-white I wanted to see. TV. We saw the movies of Kitty Kelly and Bette were For four-and-a-half years, Mama hadDavis cancerand butthey didn’t tell my me heroes. about neverthat really saw agolot people like with me except it. When I did find out, I Iknew I could toof other places my imagination. I could do couldn’t sit there cryother in inanything one way:— Thbut ey Iwere working for and some front of her. I droppedpeople, out of school inwere the 11th grade to take care of but they never the head of anything. her because I was the Ionly girlsaw andanything had to do that. I got my lessons never that said that they wereatthe home. I was 17 when she bigdied. leaders, but they were always loved for their That was hard. But cooking there or for was all someone of those things. else Iwho thought helped all that me shape my life. was great and I didn’t think anything bad about it. My whole thing was about watching movies and y grandmother watch worked people befor different a lot people. of — And I’mmom going didn’t to say it just likelead she me didthat — away whole of rich white folks — Ilot came up just being diffwho erent. are very big names in Memphis When Itoday. was aI’d little gone bitty to work girl, Iwith played my the grandpiano withtoo. my Igrandmother. came mother when I was young, had these twoSinging women and thatwriting influenced my life to be, well, open. at age I didn’t 10, and know when that’s I started whatwriting, I was, but I’d Ijust hadgoa in big mouth and I still do. if I right? say I’llBecause do it, then going dodolls, it. theAnd closet, if I I’m didn’t hidetomy I learned a whole lot about otherwould people. neverhair would’ve my brothers cutI their off. Soknown I’d go in there with my dolls and talk to them and made up stories of how my dolls and I traveled. So I was a writer from the time I was a little girl. And

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far left: Ruby’s mother, Lucille Lockhart. left: Her grandmother, Mattie Will Moore. center and below: Ruby accepts the Eugart Yerian Lifetime Achievement Award in August 2022 at the Halloran Centre. about another race of people without my grandmother. I heard on television about things that we couldn’t do because of the color of our skin, and I didn’t understand any of that, but my grandmother helped me get it. But the important part of what I learned from her was about goodness in people rather than the color of their skin. As I grew older, I learned how my grandmother was tough as nails. The people she worked for loved her and when I was with her at her work, I was treated well. Except for one lady who said the n-word to me. Grandmother told her she would not work for her again. I went to New York right after my mother died. I knew all about being a maid because of my grandmother. And I’d learned a lot about people between what my mother and grandmother taught me. In New York. I lived with a wealthy family who had a son who was blind. They got me to be the maid there, although they didn’t call me that — I was the housekeeper and babysitter. I learned so much from them about their lives as well as Jewish culture and things like that.

hanks to them, I discovered Broadway and I had a big realization: I had been doing theater since I was a little bitty girl. I didn’t know I was doing theater, I just performed. I sang. I tap danced because Shirley Temple taught me on TV. But I was also aware that while I was in New York, I’d never seen people of color in any positions other than something that had to do with civil rights and trying to get the right to do things or to be somewhere. As I grew older, I noticed the differences more, and then I noticed the things that were alike, but more different than anything. I kept all this in mind even as I was thinking about and 36 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 4

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FAMILY PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY RUBY O’GRAY, THEATER PHOTOGRAPHS BY JON W. SPARKS

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learning about entertainment. At some point, I felt I had to go back to Memphis. I lived in Midtown near the Beale Street Repertory Company where I met Levi Frazier, and also nearby was Circuit Playhouse. Behind it was this kind of ragged-looking place where people rehearsed. So, I got to know everybody. I got to know Jackie Nichols, who founded Circuit and Playhouse on the Square. I lived there from 1970 to 1981 and I saw theater all the time. And I really wanted to be on that stage. I was already on stage at church teaching Sunday school and the Wednesday night Bible class and stuff like that. But I wanted to write things.

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Leath Elementary School photo of Ruby.

[Pause. Takes a sip of water.] So that’s my beginnings. And today, I have 78 plays I’ve written. [Takes another sip.]

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got to know more people, and I auditioned and I pretty much got the roles I wanted. I went to Southwest Tennessee Community College because I wanted to get my education. I had six children, three girls and triplet boys. So in the mid-1970s, they were old enough for me to be able to go to school and really hit the stage. I auditioned, and I acted, but mostly I liked writing plays. I was simply writing stories about people, and I was not just writing about being a person of color. I wanted to show how people were more alike than different. I couldn’t go around fussing at anybody about whatever they did or didn’t do. Because of my background, I’ve been very comfortable with people all my life. I don’t care where they came from and I owe that to my grandmother. I write a lot of Memphis stories based on little PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY RUBY O’GRAY

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bits that I knew about family. The best compliment I ever heard was from a Caucasian man who saw one of my plays and said, “I thought it was going to be a Black play because everybody in it was Black. But it could have been about anybody.” I thanked him, because that’s what I wanted to hear. I wanted to hear somebody say, This is about people. There are a lot of things that are alike about people and then the things that are different, we learn from. And if you can see it on stage and see it live, and within this city, maybe we’ll start to get that idea that culture is more than the color of your skin. We may fall in love with other people that other people don’t think you should. We may not like some of the same things, or we love some of the same things. But the more you get to know people, the more you find that out. I was bowled over by my grandmother telling me that I was always good enough for anything. And that’s kind of what’s led me to create the Women’s Theater Festival of Memphis, and things like that. Now, I’ve had medical issues, and the pandemic stopped some of that, but I’m on my way back to do whatever it is at 74 and that’s what I’m going to do. Right now, I’m working on my “mistress piece.” I know people say masterpiece, but this is my mistress piece and it’s called Dress Tale, and it’s a May-December play. Watch for it! [Pause. Takes a sip of water. Retrieves an award and gazes at it.]

ow let me tell you about the Women’s Theater Festival of Memphis. For 15 years I wanted to do it, but I didn’t have like-minded people who thought that we could. I understood that the people who were saying “they’re not going to let us do it” meant it would take so much money to happen. Well, I want to openly thank one man for allowing something to happen when I presented the idea. And that’s Jackie Nichols. I went to Jackie and I said, I have no money, but I can get it. I’ve done things in a lot of places. I’ve performed in a lot of places and I know a few people that I met. I’d been going to theater festivals for years. I’d met Sidney Poitier, Robert Guillaume, and other notables in the theater world. I kept in touch. And I knew Karen Moore, a Memphian and an accomplished actress who had been making movies in Italy. I sat down with Karen and she asked me how I was going to do a women’s theater festival. I told her, like I told Jackie, that I had no money at the moment, but I had enough plays to make money. I was working for Job Corps, as a diversity coordinator working in recreation and education. I talked to Jackie about the students 40 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 4

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coming and ushering and other students coming for $5 on a particular night to see shows. I told him, “I need Circuit Playhouse, and I guarantee you let me do my play there for three nights and I’ll be able to make the money at $25 a ticket so that you can take the money and it’ll pay for everything and I’ll be able to get some other money.” We put in for grants and we did it. Didn’t have much left, but everything was paid for. We had the festival. And we had the Gyneka Awards. From there on, I have never thought that I couldn’t do anything. That’s just the way I think. And I have to carry that attitude, because there have been challenges.

Ruby O’Gray Both my husband and I have been dealing with health issues. And of course the pandemic brought things to a halt. But I’m not going to stop and cry about it. I’m going to do whatever I have to do. [Pause. Gets up from her wheelchair and gingerly walks with her cane to a podium.]

got my humor from my grandmother. I don’t mince words. I say whatever I feel but I am quick to apologize to anybody because that’s the way you’re supposed to do when you said something that you shouldn’t or you need to tell people that you love them every day. You don’t know if you’ll see them tomorrow. I’m that kind of person. Got a temper. But I’ve learned to guide it. I’ve learned. I used to talk hard to actors for a while, but I learned better and I’m a much better person than I used to be. We’ve had challenges. I didn’t do any of this without challenges, but if it weren’t for my husband, I wouldn’t have been able to do any of these things. I have to say that if I don’t say anything else. But remember what I said before: If I say I’ll do it, then I’m going to do it.

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Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2023

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I DO. MEMPHIS WEDDINGS IN PICTURES

here are as many different ways to get married as there are couples uttering their vows. A few years ago, I was thrilled to be my oldest friend’s maid of honor in her classic New Orleans wedding, complete with a second line and dancing into the night. When my own husband and I were married, our chariot was a Subaru. Before we stood before a judge

that day, I changed into my (short, gray) wedding dress in the ladies’ room at the county courthouse — to ensure no dog hair was stuck to the fabric. The money we saved helped finance our Paris honeymoon! The constant of any wedding, of course, is the commitment two people make to each other to build a life together, for better or for worse. For this year’s annual wedding spotlight, we decided to reach out to local photographers who capture the personality and humanity of this city and her people, and work with them to publish imagery of ceremonies they have shot recently. (Thank you to the photographers and the happy couples for allowing us to share these memories with you.) Rather than telling you exactly how or where to get married, we offer instead these moments of inspiration in all their glorious variety. If you became engaged over the holidays (congratulations!) or have a

family member who did, we offer these creative, distinctive Memphis weddings as reminders that your wedding should look and feel just like y o u . — Anna Traverse

TOP PHOTOGRAPH BY JACKIE MCGINNIS PHOTO

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I DO.

Chase and Katie Wall tied the knot on March 11, 2023. Having met as undergraduates at the University of Memphis, the two held their wedding ceremony and reception at Southern Grace Weddings & Events in Arlington, Tennessee.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY SMASH STUDIOS PHOTOGRAPHY

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I DO. PHOTOGRAPH BY SMASH STUDIOS PHOTOGRAPHY

A little bit of rain during the ceremony couldn't dampen the festivities. Some quick thinking and an extra pair of umbrellas meant that proceedings could continue as planned. 46 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 4

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Aubrey and Jamie DePewKalman’s wedding was out of the ordinary. “Our theme, I guess, would be considered ‘dark romance,’” Aubrey says. “We

had 124 guests in attendance, and it was absolutely magical. Given that our wedding was on a Tuesday in the middle-ofnowhere Alabama, each and

every person who was there had to put forth a lot of time and energy into making it to our wedding. We truly felt all of the love that went into that.”

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I DO. PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE MCGINNIS PHOTO

Memphian Aubrey DePew and Jamie Kalman of Sarasota, Florida, met by chance online in early 2020, just before Covid-19 swept the world. “We met in person on July 8, 2020, after both of us lost our homes due to the pandemic,” says Aubrey. The two full-time performers were forced to move in with their parents, who, as fate would have it, lived near each other, and romance blossomed.

“Halloween has been our favorite time of year, so we knew we wanted a Halloween wedding, with spooky vibes, but still elegant, so we ended up having a black-tie affair at a castle!” says Aubrey. “The day is about being surrounded by the people who love you and who are there to celebrate your love.” 50 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 4

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Drew Fleming and Alyssa Etheridge met in college, and reconnected eight years ago when they ran into each other at the Beale Street Music Festival. When it came time to tie the knot, they chose to do so at the Shelby County Courthouse. “We wanted the day to be about us and keep it simple, but classic. Modern but timeless,” says Drew.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY ASHLEY BENHAM PHOTOGRAPHY

Lars Monia and Chelsea Dezfuli celebrated their wedding at the Metal Museum on May 27, 2023. For the couple, it was important to have a venue that was recognizably Memphis before Lars’ work as a nuclear submarine officer for the U.S. Navy relocated them (and their dogs Fiona and River) to Groton, Connecticut. “We really wanted an outdoor venue that overlooked the river, and the Metal Museum turned out to be the perfect spot,” says Chelsea. “We’d create memories that reminded us of home, no matter where we’d end up.”

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11/21/23 12/5/23 10:32 10:25AM AM

L O CA L

T R E AS U R E S

MEET THE

MATRIARCH OF COOPER-YOUNG At 95, Doris Porter gets by with a little help from her friends. BY JANE SCHNEIDER

It’s a mild October evening, perfect weather for celebrating National Night Out, a community-building event that promotes police-community partnerships and neighborhood camaraderie. I’m attending one of several outdoor gatherings in Cooper-Young, this one hosted by Terry Lawrence, an avid cyclist and past president of the CooperYoung Neighborhood Association (CYNA), and his wife, Cynthia. Terry is turning out heavenly sliders and dogs on his wood-burning grill for the hungry horde who’ve gathered tonight. PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

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L O CA L

T R E AS U R E S

standing, l-r: Friends and neighbors Jared Hogan, Terry Lawrence, Jim Wilson, and Tyrina Browning. seated, l-r: Amy Claire Hogan, Doris Porter with baby Faye Hogan, and Cynthia Lawrence with her grandson, Blake Chapman.

“Hot dogs are just coming off the grill,” he calls out, making sure he’s heard over Annie, the dog next door who voices her displeasure at not being invited. Neighbors chat over plates of food. It’s a delightful mix of ages: preschoolers, thirty-somethings, Boomers. There’s even a six-month-old being passed around between doting grandmas. “Are you going to try a piece of my pumpkin pie?” a friend asks Doris Porter, who at 95, is the most senior member of the street. Doris has been a regular at events like these for years; such meetups help her stay connected. She knows most of the folks here by name and gives me the skinny as we mingle. Graciously dipping into the pie, she murmurs, “It’s delicious.” Three police officers soon stop by to introduce themselves to the group. Who was their contact? “We were told to ask for Doris,” they say. Everyone laughs.

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A COOPER-YOUNG SUPPORTER

oris is something of a neighborhood institution. Tyrina Browning, CYNA’s treasurer, refers to her as the matriarch of Cooper-Young. Porter has lived in her tidy, three-bedroom home on Evelyn for 50 years, keeping a watchful eye on the street from her front porch, often perched on an antique glider. “If someone moves into the neighborhood and they aren’t social, we laugh and say they’re probably in the witness protection program,” Doris says with a twinkle in her eye. Despite her age, she remains sharp and current. Today’s topic is the upcoming meeting with MLGW to learn how they plan to address the neighborhood’s frequent power outages. Porter’s long been a spokesperson and supporter of CYNA; in fact, that’s how she and Browning became friends 30 years ago. PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

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L O CA L

T R E AS U R E S

right: Porter in her backyard, which doubles as the neighborhood dog park. She briefly considered moving to a retirement home but couldn’t bear the thought of leaving her community.

“I got to know her through her community involvement,” says Browning. “When I later moved my mother into the neighborhood, she’d stop by and visit or take her out for lunch. She made her feel welcome.” That was a huge gift to Tyrina, who at the time was a banker with Union Planters and often worked 10-hour days. Doris’ presence gave her peace of mind. Cynthia Lawrence, a nurse who lives a few doors down, tells a similar story. When she first moved to the neighborhood 24 years ago, Terry often traveled for his job with AutoZone. So Doris would invite her out for a meal with her long-time friend, Betty Slack. She kept Cynthia from feeling alone and knitted her into the neighborhood, because that’s what a good neighbor does. 60 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 4

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“Doris was always doing for others,” says Cynthia. Her acts of community service go back many years, so perhaps it’s fitting that her neighbors are returning the favor. Tyrina and Cynthia are among a host of friends who contribute to help Doris live independently. Tyrina visits every afternoon at four to chat and help around the house. Cynthia stops by with food and often runs errands. Last Christmas, Terry gave Doris a gift certificate good for several hours of handyman chores. “When a limb comes down in the backyard, Terry comes down and cuts it up and brings it to the curb. Cynthia has a key, and she comes down all the time, too,” says Doris. “I’m surprised I have all the friends that I do.” PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

12/11/23 11:28 AM

LIFE IN MIDTOWN

left: Neighbor Terry Lawrence, a top fundraiser for the annual Go Jim Go bike ride, helps Porter with chores and yard work.

oris Porter grew up just a few miles west of Cooper-Young. She was raised by her teenage mother and her aunt in a house on Monroe Avenue, which in her day was a mix of residential and commercial properties. Her backyard was effectively Forrest Park (now Health Sciences Park); after school, she played there with friends. She graduated from Memphis Technical High School, married at 19, and took a job. While her professional life was fulfilling, married life fell short. After three years, Doris divorced and never looked back. She bought her home in Cooper-Young in 1972 and lived with her mother until she passed away at age 88. She found many activities to enjoy: camping, horseback riding, trips with girlfriends. After working several secretarial jobs, Betty let her know about an opening at the Chrysler dealership at Second and Jefferson. Doris landed the position and worked there for 42 years. “I guess today I’d be considered an executive assistant but back then I was simply a secretary,” she says. “It was a good place to work. It was dignified. People had to dress appropriately and it was family-oriented.” She still meets once a quarter with some of those Chrysler managers, “although I’m the only woman left,” she says. They gather at the Cupboard on Union and one of the managers still cares for her car, running it to the mechanic whenever it needs work. Her back neighbor, Jim Wilson, bought his house from friends of Doris years ago, so it didn’t take long for him to become woven into her social network. The two share a love of Memphis history. Jim, who does inte-

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rior landscape design for Foliage Design Systems and serves on the Cooper-Young Garden Club, found himself talking about early eateries in Memphis. That’s when he learned of Doris’ fondness for chicken and dumplings, a meal she often enjoyed at the Ritz Cafe. “So when I make chicken and dumplings, I’ll take a plate over,” says Wilson. His cat, Roxy, even adopted her. Which brings us to Doris’ love of animals. Years ago, with a shady fenced-in backyard “not much good for growing flowers,” Doris added a back gate and declared it the neighborhood dog park. Dog owners on the block would bring their pets to romp while Doris got the latest gossip on family and friends. Given her fondness of animals, pet-sitting became a logical extension of her kindness. “I was taking care of the neighbor’s dog on the next block, for Tommy and Jimmy,” she says. “I would house-sit for them while they were on vacation. I was devoted to their dogs. I also tended their chickens. I love animals.” What’s more, she always made herself available to neighbors who needed a ride to medical appointments or to the grocery. Browning’s mother was among those who benefitted. “I’d often take people who couldn’t get there on their own,” Doris says. “I’m patient; I don’t mind waiting. People who are working can’t do that. I was still helping folks until I broke my hip.” PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

12/14/23 8:00 PM

Did I mention Porter is 95? And about the hip; she didn’t fall in the bathroom one night. No, Porter was at Memphis Made Brewing Co. for the annual Cooper-Young Chili CookOff last March, a fundraiser she supports for Peabody Elementary School. “I got my beer and was starting to sit down on a bench when the darn thing just went out from under me,” she says somewhat incredulously. She landed squarely on the brewery’s concrete floor. The fall led to a partial hip replacement, followed by several weeks of therapy at a local rehab facility. When word spread of her surgery, neighbors were quick to help the helper. Nancy Beard created an online meal train that kept Doris’ fridge full to overflowing once she returned home. Cynthia monitored her rehab. And Doris began receiving help from Vernita Starks, a caregiver who comes in five mornings a week. “She really helps keep the house tidy. I

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notice when it’s messy,” Doris admits, “but I just don’t have the stamina to do anything about it.” Porter rebounded and today is walking with a cane. Though longtime friends have passed on, Doris isn’t shy about making new ones. Her latest, Faye, is the baby of neighbors Jared and Amy Claire Hogan. They share dinners on occasion, bringing their dog, Camp, and Faye, so Doris can hold her and coo. “I’m so attached,” she says. As for her life in Cooper-Young, “God picked the right place for me to live. He chose the right life for me,” she says. Porter has lived by giving of herself — and that devotion is flowing back. Says Browning, “I hope Doris knows how well she is loved.”

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J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 4 • M E M P H I S M A G10/10/23 A Z I N E . C 10:48 O M •AM 63

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Meet theYoungs. [ contin u ed from page 33 ]

aul Young’s resume reads l i ke t hat of a p ol ic y m a ker, not a politician. Master’s degrees, one in city and regional planning and one in business administration, real estate, and finance.

◗◗ Senior planner and administrator,

Memphis and Shelby County Division of Planning and Development. ◗◗ Financial analyst, Community Capital Memphis. ◗◗ Director of Legislative Affairs, Shelby County Government.

◗◗ Director of Housing and Community Development, City of Memphis.

At HCD, he oversaw the development of South City and Tillman Cove, the redevelopment of Melrose High, North Side High, and Collins Chapel, and the establishment of the city’s Affordable Housing Trust Fund. “If I could have applied for the position of mayor and gone through a different process, I definitely would have,” Paul says. “I really don’t want to be a politician. I just want to do this job.” Dr. Jamila Smith-Young, Paul’s wife of 16 years, also wishes he could have applied for the job instead of running for office. “Politics can be cruel, as we know,” she says. “Paul can handle that; we can handle that. But we agreed that we needed to make sure the children are protected and that our family time remains a priority.” Smith-Young is a pediatric nurse practitioner at Le Bonheur Children’s Hospital and an assistant professor in UTHSC’s College of Nursing. She has a doctorate in nursing and a master’s degree in public health. “Jamila is the rock star in this family,” according to Paul. Smith-Young grew up in the Cherokee neighborhood, about two miles north of Oakhaven, but she and Paul first met as undergraduates at UT-Knoxville. “He was just easy to talk to, so bright and kind, and we had a lot in common.” Smith-Young’s family attended Greater Middle Baptist Church, led by Rev. Dr. Benjamin Hooks, who was national director of the NAACP from 1977 to 1992. Hooks presided at Paul and Jamila’s wedding. They have two children: Daughter Zoe is 12 and son Paxton is 8. “Paul is not driven by power or ego,” says Smith-Young. “He’s driven by faith and family. That’s how he was raised and that’s how we’re raising our children.”

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oung kicked off his campaign for mayor on October 5, 2022, exactly one year before the election. Five days later, his father died of congestive heart failure. Rev. Dr. William Marcus Young was 77. Paul was at his father’s bedside when he died. “Paul sat with William until he made his transition,” Dianne says. “That’s the kind of man he is: family first.” On the night he was elected mayor, Paul thanked his family. He thanked his wife and children. He thanked his sister and brother. He thanked his mother and his wife’s parents. He thanked his father. And he talked about the conversation he had with his father while trying to decide whether to run for mayor. “He was asking me if I was going to run, and I said I don’t know because I know the weight

Listen, Learn, and Talk.

above: Thanksgiving 2021 was the last one with William (seated). It was around this time that Paul (left) talked to his dad about running for mayor. of the job,” says. “I know what it means to be in that seat, and I just don’t know if we’re ready for that. My dad said, ‘I hear you, but Herman and Eva, your grandparents, they would never have imagined that their grandson would have the ability to even think about being the mayor of this amazing city. It’s not about you. It’s about what God has put in you for the rest of our city.’ Those words changed me.”

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S I P S

Here Comes the Judge Allan Creasy found a home in the restaurant community. And politics. BY BRUCE VANW YNGARDEN

University of Memphis.” So he bought a house. “My parents had to co-sign, but it was all my money. I just didn’t want to pay rent,” he says. Smart kid. After graduating with a degree in history and a minor in English, Creasy was ready to face the world. “I was totally qualified to serve beer,” he says, laughing. “People asked me why I didn’t use my degree, but the fact is, I was already making more money than I would as a teacher, and I found that I liked working in the restaurant community. And I enjoyed being able to tell stories.” After stints at Dan McGuinness and La Montagne, Creasy landed the gig in 2005 that made him Memphis-famous — bartending at Celtic Crossing, the Irish pub in Cooper-Young. Those were heady days, with packed houses for nightly (and early-morning) soccer games.

After stints at Dan McGuinness and La Montagne, Creasy landed the gig in 2005 that made him Memphis-famous — bartending at Celtic Crossing, the Irish pub in Cooper-Young.

Allan Creasy with a sampler tray of four four-ounce pours, Lucid Kolsch, GonerBrau, Dockside, and The Judge.

he first thing Allan Creasy did when he graduated from high school was buy a house. Which lets you know right away that he’s something of an original thinker. And probably good at managing money.

“I was a nerdy, introverted kid growing up,” he says. “I needed a job in high school, so I applied at every bookstore that’s now been put out of business by Amazon. The only place that would hire me was Johnny Rockets in Wolfchase Galleria, waiting tables. It was one of those places where we had to sing and dance every time certain songs came on the jukebox. So, in a way, the restau-

rant community was responsible for bringing me out of my shell.” For a newly 16-year-old songand-dance man, $5.15 an hour felt like real money. Creasy was soon promoted to service coordinator at twice the pay, and started putting it away. “Since I was still living at home, I didn’t have any expenses,” he says. “And I got an academic scholarship to the

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Celtic was a hub for soccer fans and for the Indian and European immigrant communities, and Creasy was the maestro behind the bar, always finishing first, second, or third as the city’s “Best Bartender” in the Memphis Flyer’s annual Best of Memphis contest. “I used to joke with Dave Parks [another legendary Memphis bartender],” says Creasy. “We were always in the top three. It was so unfair. I can’t do one-tenth of what Parks can do, but I had a much bigger clientele.” The 2010s were big at Celtic, and it’s still thriving, a cornerstone of the Cooper-Young dining scene, but after the pandemic it transitioned into more of a dinner and lunch place, less of a late-night nightclub, and Creasy moved on. He’s long been active in local

progressive politics. He ran for a state House seat in 2018, does fundraising for local PACs, and currently runs social media for the Memphis Labor Council, which puts him at the center of any union activity in Memphis and West Tennessee. He also ran field operations for Van Turner’s mayoral run last fall. But Creasy hasn’t totally given up bartending. “I run Trivia Night at Memphis Made Brewing Co. on Thursday nights,” he says, “and I’m usually behind the bar on Friday nights.” And he’s behind the bar as I’m speaking with him, so I ask him what brew he would suggest I try. “When it gets cold, like today, I like a stout or porter,” he says, “so I’d recommend The Judge, our chocolate vanilla porter.” “Ehhh, I’m not big on thick, heavy, or sweet beers,” I confess. “What else would you recommend?” “How about a sampler tray — four four-ounce pours? That way you can decide for yourself?” “Perfect,” I decide. After a couple minutes, Creasy sets the tray on the bar. He’s serving me Lucid Kolsch, GonerBrau, Dockside, and, yes, The Judge. A quick review: Lucid Kolsch is crispy, light, tasty, a great “lawnmower beer”; Dockside is a smooth, dry wheat ale, good stuff; GonerBrau is a nice pilsner that I’ve had many times. It was my favorite of the beers I tasted. Or at least it was until I tried The Judge, which is without question the first porter I’ve ever liked. Not just tolerated. Liked. There was a light, sweet finish, but it was beer through and through, not coffee, not fruit juice, not motor oil. I apologize, your honor. I was out of order. The Judge is more than fair. Creasy refrains from any “I told you so” jibes. He is something of a politician, after all. But I’d bet, uh, the house he was thinking it. So, anyway, go to Memphis Made Brewing and try their beers. If you stop by on Thursday or Friday, tell Allan Creasy hi. And don’t feel guilty for liking The Judge. Memphis Made Brwing Co. is located at 768 South Cooper. PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN

12/12/23 11:20 AM

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D I N I N G

O U T

The Public Bistro

A neighborhood hangout with a hint of European sophistication. BY ALEX GREENE

Kate Ashby, owner of The Public Bistro, also owns and operates the bar Knifebird. Gannon Hamilton (right) is executive chef at The Public Bistro.

he first thing I notice about The Public Bistro, one of the most promising newcomers in the city’s food scene, is that they’re open on Mondays. While that’s not unheard of in the world of fine dining, it’s not a given, and with good reason.

“Mondays are still a little tricky, but it’s a good neighborhood day,” says owner Kate Ashby, who can often be seen at The Public Bistro with her husband, Kyle Bankston, who assists with management duties. “And Cooper-Young is such a great neighborhood. I think over time [Mondays will] become a little more steady. It’s been a receptive crowd so far.” Indeed, on the Monday when I visited, the place boasted a dozen or so tables of patrons,

and more at the bar. And the night was still young. A mellow mix of groovy, hip-hop inflected soul murmured in the background. The Public Bistro is well-situated to become a neighborhood hangout, as the Sweet Grass/ Next Door combo once was in the same location. To that end, it presents the perfect vibe, with sleek, modernist décor and clean lines that register as both homey and cosmopolitan. It feels roomier than the square

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footage suggests, and subtle touches like the stamped-tin ceiling tiles give the an immediately vintage feel. “We basically took it down to the studs and put in new floors and a new ceiling,” says Ashby. “The ceiling tiles look like they should have been here forever. It’s a classic bistro feel, nothing too busy.” The same can be said for the menu, which focuses on reassuringly familiar bistro fare. “What we wanted to do here was just classic American staple dishes,” Ashby explains. “Nothing too left-field, more like the things that you make at home, where you don’t have to Google all the ingredients — we want to make sure you

don’t have to do that.” Appetizers include biscuits, macaroni and cheese, barbecued shrimp, and mussels. Tomato is a standby alongside seasonal specials, while their salads range from a classic Cobb to burrata cheese with pesto, roasted tomatoes, and arugula. The sandwich section features no-nonsense burgers (including a black bean patty option), chicken, steak, and even grilled cheese. And the entrée offerings range from a roasted half-chicken to pork chops, steak frites, ribs, chicken cacciatore, mushroom gnocchi, and salmon. I chose the latter for dinner, but relaxed first with a spot of wine. The drink menu is PHOTOGRAPHS ABOVE COURTESY KATE ASHBY

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to Google all the ingredients — we want to make sure you don’t have to do that.”

substantial — no surprise, considering that Ashby also owns the bar Knifebird, practically around the corner on Central Avenue. The Public Bistro features some creative house-special cocktails, including “the Icebreaker, a rotating mini cocktail curated by our bartender team,” as well as classic mixed drinks, a lengthy wine list, a few bottled and canned craft beers, and three local micro-brews on tap. Lucky me, it was happy hour, and I opted for the Grüner Veltliner, a crisp, citrus-tinged white that “has arguably done more to put Austrian wines on the map than any other grape variety,” according to Food & Wine. It was perfectly chilled and appealed to this longtime Sauvignon blanc fan. To begin, I chose the crispy Brussels: roasted Brussels sprouts with a perfect brown tinge, topped with almond slices. The lemon-tahini sauce was a delightful surprise, complementing the earthiness of the vegetables with a zesty zing. The executive chef at The Public Bistro, Gannon Hamilton, knows his vegetables, having originally made a name for himself at The Farmer in its Highland location. As an organic farmer at the time, I knew Hamilton well — he always wanted the freshest farm produce he could acquire. Since then, he’s built his good reputation around town, including a stint at Wolf River Brisket Co. Since joining The Public Bistro upon their opening this October, he’s found a perfect fit for his talents. “It was funny,” Ashby says. “Gannon used to be the executive chef over at The Farmer and after that he hadn’t really found his home. We had put out an ad and interviewed a FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX GREENE

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few people but hadn’t really found the right person. And as Gannon told us, ‘I never go online to look for jobs.’ Yet for some reason he did that day and saw our ad, so we met with him. And it was just a very good union, because The Farmer had maybe a little more Southern focus, but still was focused on

“What we wanted to do here was just classic American staple dishes. “Nothing too left-field, more like the things that you make at home, where you don’t have to Google all the ingredients — we want to make sure you don’t have to do that.” — Kate Ashby that classic American kind of food. He had been looking to do that again. And that was really what we wanted to do here: classic American staple dishes.” It didn’t hurt that Hamilton was easy to work with. “He’s such a nice guy,” says Ashby. “You know, sometimes chefs are good, but they have that ego, and you just have to say, ‘Well, but his food is so good.’ But Gannon has no ego. He’s just the kindest, most patient person. And he told our staff during training that he would do pretty much anything for a customer.” True to form, Hamilton honors his commitment to local produce whenever possible. “He’s getting our mushrooms from Bluff City Fungi,” says Ashby. “And he goes to the Cooper-Young Community Farmers Market every Saturday to get stuff for us.” I thought about that ethos as my entrée was served: a generous portion of broiled salmon topped with Hamilton’s chili chutney, served on a bed of herb risotto, with roasted carrots on the side. I could picture the

bunches of multicolored carrots one often sees piled high at the local farmers market, now transformed into delectable savory morsels of white, orange, and deep purple. The risotto was also a savory delight. And the salmon, crisply browned on top, yet creamy and tender beneath, was complemented with the intriguing spicy sweetness of the chutney, bringing a bit of fireworks to the main course. I silently toasted the chef with my Grüner Veltliner and pondered the dessert menu. Though tempted by the chocolate raspberry cake, the apple tart, and the pear cheesecake, I stuck to the Euro-American theme (I had started the evening with Brussels sprouts, after all) by selecting the crème brûlée. Besides, that’s a tricky dish to pull off in a home kitchen. When it arrived, I knew I had chosen well: the exquisitely crunchy crust of caramelized sugar perfectly set off the creamy custard beneath, and was topped with fresh raspberries, strawberries, and a dollop of whipped cream. After the rather filling main course, the lightness of the finale was very welcome. All in all, it appears that The Public Bistro lives up to its name: an approachable, populist gathering space with the warm, cozy atmosphere of a bistro, and a core commitment to fine, fresh flavors. For her part, Ashby is relishing the homey vibe she and Bankston nurture like proud parents, especially as it fits into the city’s flourishing food culture. “[The dining scene] is expanding a lot here,” she says, “which is exciting. Since I moved here in 2016, the number of things that have opened is remarkable. It’s exciting to see how much is developing and how many

above, top to bottom: Three courses of perfection: Salmon with chili chutney, carrots, and herb risotto; crispy Brussels sprouts with toasted almonds and lemon tahini sauce; crème brûlée with strawberries. more opportunities there are. I’m from Philly, and I lived in New York for a long time. And in New York, I would never ever want to open anything on my own. It’s oversaturated; there’s just too much. So, it’s kind of refreshing to be on the other side, where there are little opportunities for people to do something that’s needed in the area. Plus, the people are so nice here. In Philadelphia, we’re not known for being very nice. It’s great being in the hospitality business in a city that is so hospitable.” The Public Bistro is located at 937 S. Cooper, 901-509-2113.

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Memphis Dining Guide A Curated Guide to Eating Out

emphis Magazine offers this curated restaurant listing

as a service to our readers. Broken down alphabetically by neighborhoods, this directory does not list every restaurant in town. It does, however, include the magazine’s “Top 50” choices of must-try restaurants in Memphis, a group that is updated every August. Establishments open less than a year are not eligible for “Top 50” but are noted as “New.” This guide also includes a representative sampling of other Bluff City eating establishments. No fast-food facilities or cafeterias are listed. Restaurants are included regardless of whether they advertise in Memphis Magazine; those that operate in multiple locations are listed under the neighborhood of their original location. This guide is updated regularly, but we recommend that you call ahead to check on hours, prices, or other details. Suggestions from readers are welcome; please contact Samuel X. Cicci at scicci@contemporary-media.com. tomatoes with smoked catfish, a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, DOWNTOWN burgers, and more. Closed Mon.-Thurs. 141 E. Carolina. 321-5553. L, D, 117 PRIME—Restaurateurs Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp team up WB, $-$$ with Chef Ryan Trimm to recreate the traditional American steakhouse. CATHERINE & MARY’S—A variety of pastas, grilled quail, Serving oysters on the half shell and a variety of surf and turf options. 117 pâté, razor clams, and monkfish are among the dishes served at Union. 433-9851. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ this Italian restaurant in the Chisca. 272 S. Main. 254-8600. D, SB, X, ALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas — including Mr. MRA, $-$$$ T Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 beers, bottled or on tap. 100 S. CHEF TAM’S UNDERGROUND CAFE—Serves Southern Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Cooper. 725-7437. L, D, X, $-$$ staples with a Cajun twist. Menu items include totchoes, jerk AMELIA GENE’S—Globally inspired fine dining cuisine at the wings, fried chicken, and “muddy” mac and cheese. Closed Sun. and Mon. One Beale project, including Rohan duck, wagyu filet, and an 668 Union Ave. 207-6182. L, D, X, $-$$ extensive cheese cart. 255 S. Front. 686-5051. D, X, $$-$$$ CHEZ PHILIPPE—Classical/contemporary French cuisine with THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe. Specialties Asian and Nordic influences, presented in a luxurious atmosphere include sweet potato pancakes, a fried peanut butter and banana with seasonal tasting menus from chef Keith Clinton. Afternoon tea sandwich, and breakfast served all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D served Thu-Sun., noon-3:30 p.m. (reservations required). Closed Sun.(Thurs.-Sat.), X, MRA, $ Tues. The Peabody, 149 Union. 529-4188. D, X, MRA, $$$$ AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime Downtown favorite DINING SYMBOLS CIMAS—It’s breakfast tacos, shrimp and grits, specializes in contemporary American cuisine emphachilaquiles verdes, and plenty of other Southern and sizing local ingredients; also extensive martini list. 83 S. B — breakfast Latin-American twists at the Hyatt Centric. 33 Beale St. Second. 525-7948. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ L — lunch 444-3232. B, L, D, X, $-$$$ BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with D — dinner THE CLOVER CLUB—Southern fusion and Italian influence, Bardog offers pasta specialties such SB — Sunday brunch internationally-inspired small plates at Hotel as Grandma’s NJ Meatballs, as well as salads, sliders, Indigo. 22 N. B.B. King. B, L, D, X, $-$$ WB — weekend brunch sandwiches, and daily specials. 73 Monroe. 275-8752. COCOZZA AMERICAN ITALIAN—”The red X— wheelchair accessible B (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ sauce joint of your dreams” serves up classic MRA — member, Memphis BEDROCK EATS & SWEETS—Memphis’ only Italian-American fare from the owners of Majestic Grille. Paleo-centric restaurant, offering such dishes as pot Restaurant Association Closed Sun. 110 Harbor Town Sq. 609-1111. D, X, $-$$ roast, waffles, enchiladas, chicken salad, omelets, and $ — under $15 per person COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sandmore. Closed for dinner Sun. 327 S. Main. 409-6433. without drinks or desserts wiches, chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homeB, L, D, X, $-$$ $$ — under $25 made banana pudding. Closed Mon. 735 N. Parkway. BELLE TAVERN—Serving elevated bar food, including $$$ — $26-$50 527-9158. L, D, $ a butcher board with a variety of meats and cheeses, as $$$$ — over $50 CURFEW—An elevated sports bar/American tavern well as daily specials. 117 Barboro Alley. 249-6580. L concept by Top Chef contestant Fabio Viviani at the (Sun.), D, MRA, $ Canopy Memphis Downtown hotel. 164 Union Ave. B, L, D, X, $-$$ BEN YAY’S GUMBO SHOP—Spiritual successor to DejaVu, offering DOS HERMANOS KITCHEN—Breakfast and lunch concept by fresh and authentic Creole staples. 51 S. Main St., 779-4125. L, D, X, Eli Townsend in the renovated Cossitt Library. 33 S. Front. B, L, $ $-$$ ESCO RESTAURANT AND TAPAS—Shareable dishes, turkey BISHOP—Ticer and Hudman’s newest venture at the Central Station ribs, and seafood mac’n’cheese at this 2 Chainz franchise. 156 Lt. Hotel features upscale dishes in a French brasserie style. 545 S. Main George W. Lee Ave. 808-3726. L, D, $$-$$$ St., 524-5247. L, D, X, $$-$$$ EVELYN & OLIVE—Jamaican/Southern fusion cuisine includes such BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE—Serves Japanese dishes as Kingston stew fish, Rasta Pasta, and jerk rib-eye. Closed for lunch fusion cuisine featuring seafood and steak, with seasonally changing Sat. and all day Sun.-Mon. 630 Madison. 748-5422. L, D, X , $ menu; also a sushi bar. 135 S. Main. 528-1010. L, D, X, $-$$ FAM—Casual Asian restaurant serves sushi rice bowls, noodle bowls, BRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American cuisine includes sushi rolls, and spring rolls. Closed Sun. 149 Madison. 701-6666; 521 S. such entrees as fish and chips, burgers, shepherd’s pie, all-day Irish Highland. 249-2636. L, D, X, $ breakfast, and more. 152 Madison. 572-1813. L, D, SB, $-$$ FANCY’S FISH HOUSE—Serving chef-inspired favorites at One Beale, BY THE BREWERY—Breakfast and lunch café, with a focus on including fresh, daily-caught fish and seafood, a raw bar, and signature Southern-style biscuits, salads, and soups. 496 Tennessee St. 310-4341. dishes from the grill, with fabulous river views from the dining room and B, L, $ patio. 1 Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Ave. #1. 589-3474. L, D, X, $$-$$$$ CAFE KEOUGH—European-style cafe serving quiche, paninis, salads, FEAST & GRAZE—Whipped goat toast, open faced grilled cheese, and and more. 12 S. Main. 509-2469. B, L, D, X, $ other local pantry snacks and charcuterie boards. Closed Sun./Mon. 55 CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Offers prime steaks, S. Main. 654-5926. L, X, $ fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi), pasta, and several FERRARO’S CHEESY CORNER & PIZZERIA—Plenty of pizzas, Northern Italian specialties. 149 Union, The Peabody. 529-4199. B, L, D, along with a whole new cheese-inspired menu (fancy grilled cheeses and SB, X, MRA, $-$$$$ build-your-own mac and cheese bowls). 111 Jackson. 522-2033. L, D, X, $ CAROLINA WATERSHED—This indoor/outdoor eatery, set around silos, features reimagined down-home classics, including fried green

FISHBOWL AT THE PYRAMID—Burgers, fish dishes, sandwiches, and more served in a unique “underwater” setting. Bass Pro, 1 Bass Pro Drive, 291-8000. B, L, D, X, $-$$ FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR—Serves steaks and seafood, along with such specialties as bison ribeye and Muscovy duck, all matched with appropriate wines. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab, oysters, fish tacos, and catfish; also chicken and burgers. 105 S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, X, $-$$ GARDEN BRUNCH CAFÉ—Fish and grits, steak and eggs, and other upscale takes on Southern brunch classics. 492 S. Main St. 249-7450. B, L, $$ GOOD FORTUNE CO.—Authentic handcrafted noodles, ramen, and dumplings. 361 S. Main. 561-306-4711. L, D, X, $-$$ THE GENRE—Burgers, tenders, catfish, and plenty of vegan options made to order at this music-themed restaurant/lounge. 200 Poplar, Suite 105. 410-8169. B, L, D, X, $-$$ GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homemade beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. Front. 527-4877; 3100 Forest Hill Irene (Germantown). 8536005; 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 373-9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 767-2323; 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-294-2028. L, D, X, MRA, $ HAPPY MEXICAN—Serves quesadillas, burritos, chimichangas, vegetable and seafood dishes, and more. 385 S. Second. 529-9991; 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; 7935 Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, X, $ HIVE BAGEL & DELI—Bagels, bagels, and more bagels at this new Downtown deli offering baked goods, sandwiches, and salads. Closed Mon./Tue. 276 S. Front St. 509-2946. B, L, $ HU. ROOF—Rooftop cocktail bar with superb city views serves toasts with a variety of toppings including beef tartare with cured egg, cognac, and capers or riced cauliflower with yellow curry, currants, and almonds. Also salads, fish tacos, and boiled peanut hummus. 79 Madison. 333-1229. D, X, $ HUSTLE & DOUGH BAKERY & CAFE—Flaky, baked breakfast goodness every day with fresh pastries, sandwiches, and more at Arrive Hotel. 477 S. Main St., 701-7577. B, L, X, $ IBIS—Upscale cocktail bar serving sharable small plates, including lobster rolls, crab cakes, and lamb meatballs, alongside select larger entrees. Closed Mon.-Wed. 314 S. Main. 748-5187. D, X, $-$$ INKWELL—Unique craft concoctions, charcuterie plates, flatbreads, and sandwiches at this dope cocktail bar. Closed Mon.-Tue. 631 Madison Ave. 334-9411. D, X, $-$$ ITTA BENA—Southern and Cajun-American cuisine served here, conveniently located above B.B. King’s Blues Club on Beale St.; specialties are duck and waffles and shrimp and grits, along with steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta. 145 Beale St. 578-3031. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ KING & UNION BAR GROCERY—Classic Southern favorites including catfish plate, pimento cheese, po-boys, chicken & waffles. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with cocktails served with flair and favorite Memphis beers. Locally made confections available in the grocery. 185 Union Ave. 523-8500. B, L, D, $-$$ KOOKY CANUCK—Offers prime rib, catfish, and burgers, including the 4-lb. “Kookamonga”; also late-night menu. 87 S. Second. 578-9800; 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 1-800-2453 L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ LITTLE BETTIE—New Haven-style pizzas and snacks from the AndrewMichael team at Wiseacre’s Downtown location. 398 S. B.B. King Blvd. 334-9411. L, D, $-$$ THE LITTLE TEA SHOP—Downtown institution serves up Southern comfort cooking, including meatloaf and such veggies as turnip greens, yams, okra, and tomatoes. Closed until further notice. 69 Monroe. 525-6000, L, X, $ THE LOBBYIST AT THE CHISCA—Chef Jimmy Gentry brings his farm-to-table ideas Downtown, with seasonal, and sometimes weekly, new menus, and an emphasis on creative vegetable dishes. Closed Sun. 272 S. Main St., Suite 101. 249-2170. D, $$-$$$$ LOCAL—Entrees with a focus on locally sourced products include lobster mac-and-cheese and rib-eye patty melt; menu differs by location. 95 S. Main. 473-9573. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ LOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and restaurant serves vegetarian fare and smoked-meat dishes, including beef brisket and pork tenderloin, cooked on a custom-made grill. Closed Mon.-Tues. 7 W. Carolina. 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, MRA, X, $-$$ LONGSHOT—A wide variety of international fusion dishes and craft cocktails with a side of shuffleboard. 477 S. Main. D, $-$$

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(This guide, compiled by our editors, includes editorial picks and advertisers.)

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MEMPHIS DINING GUIDE

STAURAN

HOT

THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves seafood and Southern fare, including cornmeal-fried oysters, sweet tea brined chicken, and elk chops. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 620-4600/291-8200. L, D, X, $-$$$ LUCY’S—Hu. Hotel’s downstairs diner serves up breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Start your day with a Hu. breakfast burrito, or Lucy’s Burger for a late-night bite 3 S. Main. 333-1200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include citrus glaze salmon and Cajun stuffed chicken. 179 Madison (Hotel Napoleon). 526-0002. B, D (Mon.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ MACIEL’S—Entrees include tortas, fried taco plates, quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and more. Downtown closed Sun. 45 S. Main. 526-0037, X, MRA, $ THE MAJESTIC GRILLE—Features aged steaks, fresh seafood, and such specialties as roasted chicken and grilled pork tenderloin; offers a pre-theater menu and classic cocktails. Well-stocked bar. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ McEWEN’S—Southern/American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location. 120 Monroe. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), X, MRA, $$-$$$ MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib-eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-890-2467; 88 Union. 527-5337; 3165 Forest Hill-Irene (Germantown). 249-5661. D, SB (Germantown), X, $$-$$$ MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues. 679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, X , MRA, $ MOMMA’S ROADHOUSE—This diner and dive at Highway 55 serves up smoked wings, burgers, and beer, among other solid bar food options. 855 Kentucky. 207-5111. L, D, MRA, $ NEW WING ORDER—The award-winning food truck cooks up its signature hot wings at its first physical location, at Ghost River on Beale. Closed Mon/Tue. 341 Beale. L, D, $-$$ THE NINE THAI & SUSHI—Serving authentic Thai dishes, including curries, as well as a variety of sushi rolls. Closed for lunch Sat. and Sun. 121 Union. 208-8347. L, D, X, $-$$ PAPER PLATE PAVILION—Popular food truck serves up brisket mac and cheese and more favorites at Tom Lee Park. Riverside Dr. L, X , $-$$ PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter cream sauce and crabmeat and spinach crepes; also changing daily specials and great views. River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Downtown eatery serving seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp, as well as beef, chicken, and pasta dishes. 299 S. Main. 522-9070; 8106 Cordova Center Dr. (Cordova). 425-4797. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ PENNY’S NITTY GRITTY—Coach Penny Hardaway brings plenty of Southern flavors and lots of customizable grits. 220 S. B.B. King Blvd. 334-5950. B, L, D, $$-$$$ PRETTY TACO—Fast casual tacos with a Memphis twist, like the Soul Burger tacos. Closed Sun./Mon. 265 S. Front St. 509-8120. L, D, $-$$ PROMISE—South Main soul food restaurant (think turkey necks, meatloaf, fried catfish) using old family recipes. Closed Sun./Mon. 412 S. Main. L, D, $-$$ RAW GIRLS—Raw and hot plant-based food alongside cold-pressed juices made from seasonal, locally grown sources. Closed Sun. 150 Peabody Pl., Suite 118. 207-5463. B, L, D, $-$$ RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’—Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads. Closed Sun.-Mon. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, X, $-$$ SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday. 662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, X, $ SAGE—Restaurant and lounge features daily lunch specials and tapas with such dishes as braised short ribs, teriyaki pulled pork, and the Sage burger made with Angus beef, avocado mash, fried egg, and flash-fried sage. 94 S. Main. 672-7902. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SILLY GOOSE LOUNGE—Gourmet, wood-fired pizzas and hand-crafted cocktails at this Downtown restaurant and lounge. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 435-6915. L, D, X, $ SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more. 520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, X, $ SOB—Elevated gastropub that serves favorites like general Tso’s cauliflower or duck fried rice. 345 S. Main. 526-0388. L, D, WB, X , $-$$

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MEMPHIS DINING GUIDE

SOUTH POINT GROCERY—Fresh and delicious sandwiches made to order at Downtown’s new grocery market. 136 Webster Ave. B, L, D, X, $ SUGAR GRITS—Who said breakfast has to be in the morning? The Westmorelands offer grits and other breakfast goodness all day long, in addition to other Southern-style lunch and dinner options. 150 Peabody Pl., Suite 111. 249-5206. B, L, D, X, $-$$ SUNRISE MEMPHIS—Serves breakfast all day, including house-made biscuits, frittatas, kielbasa or boudin plates, and breakfast platters. 670 Jefferson. 552-3144; 5469 Poplar Ave. (East Memphis). 844-6117. B, L, X, MRA, $ SUPPER CLUB ON 2ND—Fine dining and urban bistro styles collide at this snazzy, chic restaurant, featuring gold-encrusted tomahawk steaks, a deep sea lobster dawg, fancy cocktails, and plenty of other elevated goodies. 85 S. 2nd St. 453-6334. D, WB, X, $$-$$$ TALK SHOP—Southern-style cuisine, a breakfast bar, and plenty of other cool dishes and drinks at the Caption by Hyatt. 245 S. Front St. B, L, D, X, $-$$ TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such dishes as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders, chicken satay, and mushroom pizzetta. Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, X, MRA, $$ TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, WB, X, $$-$$$ TUG’S—Famous for New Orleans gumbo, fabulous burgers, fried thin catfish, and specialty pancakes. Now serving Grisanti Crafted Pizza. 51 Harbor Town Square. 260-3344. B, L, D, WB, X, $$-$$$ THE VAULT—Oysters, shrimp beignets, flatbreads, stuffed cornish hen, and Smash Burger featured on “Late Nite Eats” are among the dishes offered at this Creole/Italian fusion eatery. 124 G.E. Patterson. 591-8000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ WAHLBURGERS WILD—Wahlburgers brings its classic menu, but with a few gamey twists at the Bass Pro Pyramid. 1 Bass Pro Drive. B, L, D, X, $-$$ WESTY’S—Extensive menu includes a variety of wild rice dishes, sandwiches, plate lunches, and hot fudge pie. 346 N. Main. 543-3278. L, D, X, $ WINGMAN—Downtown lounge and hookah bar offering wings galore with ten signature sauces, and plenty of other goodies. 143 Madison Ave. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ MIDTOWN (INCLUDES THE MEDICAL CENTER) ABNER’S FAMOUS CHICKEN—Fried chicken tenders and dipping sauces galore at this Mid-South staple. 1350 Concourse Ave, Suite 137. 425-2597; (East Memphis) 1591 Poplar Ave. 509-3351; (Cordova) 1100 N. Germantown Pkwy. 754-5355. L, D, $-$$ ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, X, $-$$ ALCHEMY/ SALT|SOY—Handcrafted cocktails and local craft beers with the Asian fusion dining concept from Salt|Soy. 940 S. Cooper. 726-4444. D, SB, X, $-$$ ART BAR—Inventive cocktails feature locally foraged ingredients; snacks include house-cured salt & vinegar potato chips and herb-roasted olives. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. D, X, $ BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—This eatery dishes up Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and enchilada of the day; specials change daily. 2115 Madison. 274-0100; 6450 Poplar, 410-8909. L, D, SB, X , MRA, $-$$ BACK DO / MI YARD—A revamped patio space behind The Beauty Shop features rotisserie meats and fishes via Brazilian-style outdoor grill. Dinner Wed.-Sat., weather permitting. 966 S. Cooper, 272-7111. D, X, $$ BAIN BARBECUE & BAKERY—Brian Bain’s popular Texas-style barbecue is back, alongside an assortment of baked goods. 993 S. Cooper. 310-4141. B, L, X, $-$$ BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with specialty cocktails. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, X , MRA, $ BAR KEOUGH—It’s old-school eats and cocktails at the new CooperYoung neighborhood corner bar by Kevin Keough. 247 Cooper St. D, X , $ BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna, other classics. Closed Sun. 1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees. Serves fresh fish and beef dishes and a homemade soup of the day. 524 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BARKSDALE RESTAURANT—Old-school diner serving breakfast and Southern plate lunches. 237 S. Cooper. 722-2193. B, L, D, X, $

BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2094 Madison. 278-8626. L, D, WB, X , MRA, $-$$ BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American cuisine with international flair served in a former beauty shop. Serves steaks, salads, pasta, and seafood, including pecan-crusted golden sea bass. Perennial “Best Brunch” winner. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly brewed beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with live jazz), X, MRA, $-$$ BOUNTY ON BROAD—Offering family-style dining, Bounty serves small plates and family-sized platters, with such specialties as chicken-fried quail and braised pork shank. 2519 Broad. 410-8131. L (Sat. and Sun.), D (Mon.-Sat.), SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas, including the Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and soul-food specials. 2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207-1546. L, D, X , $-$$ CAFE 1912—French/American bistro owned by culinary pioneer Glenn Hays serving such seafood entrees as seared sea scallops with charred cauliflower purée and chorizo cumin sauce; also crepes, salads, and onion soup gratinée. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ CAFE ECLECTIC—Omelets and chicken and waffles are among menu items, along with quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers. Menu varies by location. 603 N. McLean. 725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $ CAFE OLÉ—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343-0103. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop. Closed Sun. 2169 Central. 278-0129. L, X, $ CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, serves Wagyu beef, chicken, and seafood dishes, including bacon-wrapped shrimp, along with daily specials and vegetarian entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CAMEO—Three longtime Memphis bartenders join forces for creative cocktails, cheese boards, snacks, and Sunday brunch. 1835 Union Ave., Suite 3. 305-6511. D, SB, $-$$ CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue. 2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 767-4672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760 ; 6201 Poplar. 4177962. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ COMPLICATED PILGRIM—Quick serve coffee shop, bar, and restaurant all in one at The Memphian hotel. 21 S. Cooper St. 601-9095820. B, L, D, $-$$ THE COVE—Nautical-themed restaurant and bar serving oysters, pizzas, and more. The Stoner Pie, with tamales and fritos, is a popular dish. 2559 Broad. 730-0719. L, D, $ THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice cakes served in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison. 272-0928. L, D, X, $ EAT AT BLACK LODGE—High-end breakfasts, like waffle grilled cheese sandwiches, nacho and tater-tot “tot-chos,” and other entrees like sweet spicy thai pork at the longtime video store. Now with Masquerade cocktail bar. Closed Mon./Tue. 405 N. Cleveland. 672-7905. L, D, X, $-$$ ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ FABIOLA’S KITCHEN—Longtime caterer Fabiola Francis serves up burgers, tacos, fish, and much more. 1353 Jackson Ave. B, L, $ FARM BURGER—Serves grass-fed, freshly ground, locally sourced burgers; also available with chicken, pork, or veggie quinoa patties, with such toppings as aged white cheddar, kale coleslaw, and roasted beets. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 175. 800-1851. L, D, X, $ THE FARMER AT RAILGARTEN—Farmer classics include panseared catfish, gulf shrimp and grits, or a Gibson donut bread pudding. Closed Mon./Tue. 2166 Central. 313-0087. D, X, $-$$

FINO’S FROM THE HILL—Italian deli offers old favorites such as the Acquisto as well as a new breakfast menu Germantown location paired with Happy Glaze Donuts. 1853 Madison. 272-FINO; 7781 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). B, L, D, X, $ FLAME RAMEN—Traditional Japanese ramen restaurant serving up bowls of noodles in Midtown. 1838 Union Ave. 779-8666; 61 S. Second St., Suite 160 (Downtown). D, $-$$ FLIP SIDE—Pinball meets pub in the Crosstown neighborhood, with plenty of games alongside a Caribbean- and Latin-inspired menu. Closed Mon. 1349 Autumn Ave. L, D, X, $-$$ FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia. 1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, X, $-$$ GLOBAL CAFÉ—This international food hall hosts three immigrant/refugee food entrepreneurs serving Venezuelan, Sudanese, and Syrian cuisines. Samosas, shawarma, and kabobs are among the menu items. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 157. L, D, X, MRA, $ GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, X, $-$$ GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options. 1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, X, $-$$ GUAC FRESH MEX—Authentic Mexican cuisine and four types of guacamole. Closed Sun. 782 Washington Ave. 587-4100. L, D, X, $ HATTIE B’S—Fried chicken spot features “hot chicken” with a variety of heat levels; from no heat to “shut the cluck up” sauce. Sides include greens, pimento mac-and-cheese, and black-eyed pea salad. 596 S. Cooper. 424-5900. L, D, X, $ HUEY’S—This family-friendly restaurant offers 13 different burgers, a variety of sandwiches, and delicious soups and salads. 1927 Madison. 726-4372; 1771 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-3885; 77 S. Second (Downtown). 527-2700; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-4455; 7090 Malco Blvd. (Southaven). 662-349-7097; 7825 Winchester. 624-8911; 4872 Poplar. 682-7729; 7677 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). 318-3030; 8570 Highway 51 N. (Millington). 873-5025. L, D, X, MRA, $ IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes at this fully vegan restaurant range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, including eggplant parmesan and “beef” tips and rice; breakfast all day Sat. and Sun. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, WB, X, $ INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, X, $-$$ INSPIRE COMMUNITY CAFE—Serving breakfast all day, in addition to quesadillas, rice bowls, and more for lunch and dinner. 510 Tillman, Suite 110. 509-8640. B, L, D, X, $ KNIFEBIRD—Neighborhood wine bar boasts plenty of flights, cocktails, and mocktails alongside bruschetta and charcuterie boards. Closed Sun. 2155 Central Ave. 748-5425. D, $-$$$ LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po’boys, shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas. 2119 Madison. 207-5097. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ LBOE—Gourmet burger joint serves locally sourced ground beef burgers, with options like the Mac-N-Cheese Burger and Caprese. Black bean and turkey patties available. 2021 Madison. 725-0770. L, D, X, $ THE LIQUOR STORE—Renovated liquor store turned diner serves all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and entrees such as Salisbury steak and smothered pork chops. 2655 Broad. 405-5477; 669 S. Mendenhall Rd. (East Memphis). B, L, D, X, $-$$ LOAF—Former food truck owner Kale Carm’s take on modern Memphis and deep South cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tue. 1934 Poplar (Memphis Brooks Museum of Art). 300-0103. L, D, X, $ MAXIMO’S ON BROAD—Serving a tapas menu that features creative fusion cuisine; entrees include veggie paella and fish of the day. Closed Mon. 2617 Broad Ave. 452-1111. D, SB, X, $-$$ MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads. 2087 Madison. 726-5343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 753-2218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-536-1364. L, D, X , $-$$ MEMPHIS WHISTLE—Cocktails, cocktails, and even more delicious cocktails alongside burgers, sandwiches, and other tasty snacks. 2299 Young Ave. Closed Mon.-Tue. 236-7136. D, X, $-$$ MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ PARISH GROCERY—Shrimp? Roast beef? Oysters? Whatever type of po’boy you want, the New Orleans-themed eatery has got it. Closed Monday. 916 S. Cooper St. 207-4347. L, D, X, $-$$

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12/11/23 11:14 AM

MEMPHIS DINING GUIDE

PAYNE’S BAR-B-QUE—Opened in 1972, this family-owned barbecue joint serves ribs, smoked sausage, and chopped pork sandwiches with a standout mustard slaw and homemade sauce. About as down-to-earth as it gets. 1762 Lamar. 272-1523. L, D, $-$$ PHO BINH—Vietnamese, vegetarian, and Cantonese specialties include lemon tofu and spring rolls. Closed Sun. 1615 Madison. 276-0006. L, D, $ THE PUBLIC BISTRO—Knifebird owners’ full-service American bistro with a menu by chef Gannon Hamilton. 937 S. Cooper St. Closed Sun. 509-2113. D, $-$$ RED FISH ASIAN BISTRO—In the former Nineteenth Century Club building, serves sushi, teriyaki, and hibachi. Specialties include yuzu filet mignon and Chilean sea bass. 1433 Union. 454-3926; 9915 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 729-7581; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-874-5254. L, D, X , $-$$$ ROBATA RAMEN & YAKITORI BAR—Serves ramen noodle bowls and Yakitori skewers as well as rice and noodle dishes. 2116 Madison. 410-8290. L, D, X, $ SABROSURA—Serves Mexican and Cuban fare, including arroz tapada de pollo and steak Mexican. Closed Sun. 782 Washington. 421-8180. L, D, X , $-$$ SALTWATER CRAB—Offers an array of seafood dishes including boils with blue crab, crab legs, lobster tails, and more, and specialty sushi like the Dynamite or Royal King rolls, in addition to signature sangrias and cocktails. 2059 Madison Ave. 922-5202. L, D, X, $$ THE SECOND LINE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his newest eatery; serves a variety of po’boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, andouille shrimp, and pimento cheese fries. 2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 309-8800; 4724 Poplar. 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 Kirby-Whitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, X, $-$$$ SLICE MIDTOWN—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes (formerly known as Little Italy). 1495 Union. 7250280; L, D, X, $-$$ SOUL FISH CAFE—Serving Southern-style soul food, tacos, and po’boys, including catfish, crawfish, oyster, shrimp, chicken, and smoked pork tenderloin. 862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar. 590-0323. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ STICKEM—Brick and mortar location for the popular food truck, which offers grilled meat on a stick. 1788 Madison. Closed Sunday. 474-7214. L, D, X, $ TAMBOLI’S PASTA & PIZZA—Pasta-maker Miles Tamboli whips up Italian soul food with seasonal menus featuring dishes like crispy fried chicken or creamy bucatini with pecorino cheese. Serves dinner Tues.-Sat. 1761 Madison. 410-8866. D, X, $-$$ TAKASHI BISTRO—Fusion restaurant with an open kitchen that lets customers watch chefs prepare a variety of Japanese and Thai cuisine. 1680 Union Ave., Suite 109. 800-2936. L, D, $-$$. TONICA—Paella and other Spanish-inspired dishes with an Italian touch, alongside an extensive list of gin and tonics. 1545 Overton Park. Closed Mon.-Wed. D, X, $-$$ TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Chef Ben Smith is a Cooper-Young pioneer. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass. Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, X,, MRA, $$-$$$ TUYEN’S ASIAN BISTRO—A variety of Asian dishes from the minds and chefs behind Saigon Le. Closed Sun. 288 N. Cleveland. L, D, X, $-$$ ZINNIE’S—Dive bar classic reopens with a makeover and signature Zinnaloni sandwich. 1688 Madison. 726-5004. L, D, X, $ SOUTH MEMPHIS (INCLUDES PARKWAY VILLAGE, FOX MEADOWS, SOUTH MEMPHIS, WINCHESTER, AND WHITEHAVEN)

BALA’S BISTRO—Authentic West African cuisine available to order or by the pound, alongside traditional American dishes and an extensive vegan menu. 4571 Elvis Presley Blvd. 509-3024. L, D, $-$$ CACHE 42 KITCHEN & COCKTAILS—Elevated fine dining (think golden rack of lamb or lobster queso) and cocktail lounge at MoneyBagg Yo’s restaurant; menu by chef Daris Leatherwood. Brunch and lunch options coming soon. 4202 Hacks Cross Rd., Suite 121. 494-5458. D, $-$$ COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings. 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652; 2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122. L, D, X, $-$$ CURRY BOWL—Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more. Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross Rd. 207-6051. L, D, $

DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern cuisine — including lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, X, $-$$$ DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross Rd., Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$ FABULOUS FLAVORS & FRIENDS—”The Candy Lady” Precious Thompson Jones comes up with a little bit of everything: omelettes, quesadillas, t-bones and waffles, and plenty of soul food. 2063 E. Brooks Rd. 314-0735. L, D, $ THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Around the corner from the legendary Stax Studio. Closed Mon. 998 Mississippi Blvd. 507-1519. L, D, $ HERNANDO’S HIDEAWAY–No one cares how late it gets; not at Hernando’s Hideaway. Live music, killer happy hour, and plenty of bar fare at this South Memphis hang. 3210 Old Hernando Rd. 917-982-1829. L, D, $ INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, X, $-$$ JIM & SAMELLA’S—It’s a revolving menu of soul food delight from Chef Talbert Fleming, with anything from Southern ribs to fried tamales. 841 Bullington Ave. 265-8761. L, D, X, $ LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings, and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet. 5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, X, $-$$ MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagna, and more. 4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, X, MRA, $-$$ UNCLE LOU’S FRIED CHICKEN—Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for good reason: fried chicken (mild, hot, or home-style); jumbo burgers four patties high; strawberry shortcake, and assorted fruit pies. 3633 Millbranch. 332-2367. L, D, X, MRA, $ SUMMER/BERCLAIR/ RALEIGH/BARTLETT 901 HOT POT & KOREAN BBQ—All-you-can-eat hot pot and Korean BBQ, from short ribs to garlic shrimp. 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. 512-4963. L, D, X, $$-$$$ BISCUITS & JAMS—Biscuits, waffles, French toast, and plenty of sharables at this Bartlett breakfast spot. Closed Mon./Tue. 5806 Stage Rd. 672-7905. B, L, X, $ BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Slingin’ famous biscuits, plate lunches, chicken fried steak, and other breakfast classics since 1968. 3965 Summer Ave. 324-7494. B, L, $ CEVICHERIA AND GRILL CHILEMON—Ceviche, of course, but also plenty of other postres, aperitivos, and mixed grilled meat and seafood feasts. Closed Sun. 4509 Summer Ave. 672-7905. L, D, $ CHEF FLAVAS AND BARTLETT BREAKFAST FACTORY— ”Flavaful” sandwiches, soups, pastas, and more from the makers of the popular local spinach artichoke dip. Traditional breakfast options served by Bartlett Breakfast Factory. Closed Sun./Mon. 6301 Stage Rd. 779-2200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ DIM SUM KING—All the best from a selection of authentic Chinese dishes: roasted duck, sizzling hot plate, Cantonese BBQ, and plenty more. 5266 Summer Ave. #65. 766-0831. L, D, X, $-$$ ELWOOD’S SHACK—Casual comfort food includes tacos, pizza, and sandwiches. Specialties include meats smoked in-house (chicken, turkey, brisket, pork), barbecue pizza, and steelhead trout tacos. 4523 Summer. 761-9898; 4040 Park Ave. 754-2520. B, L, D, X, $ EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads. 6250 Stage Rd. 382-3433; 2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-342-4544. L, D, X , MRA, $ LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican entrees offered here. A bonafide Memphis institution. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 365-4992. L, D, X, $ LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, X, $ MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials. A Memphis landmark since the

Knickerbocker closed. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 590 N. Perkins. 7619321. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, X, $$ NAM KING—General Tso’s chicken, hot and sour soup, and homemade chicken wings are back at the longtime Raleigh Chinese eatery. 3624 Austin Peay Highway, #3. 373-4411. L, D, $-$$ ÓRALE TACOS & BAKERY—Tacos, enchiladas, and other traditional Southern Mexican dishes alongside baked pan dulces. 2204 Whitten Rd. 571-1786. B, L, D, $-$$ PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday. 3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, X, $-$$ QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer. 207-4174. L, D, $ SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sun./Mon. 5689 Stage Rd. 377-2484. D, X, $-$$ TORTILLERIA LA UNICA—Individual helping of Mexican street food, including hefty tamales, burritos, tortas, and sopes. 5015 Summer Ave. 685-0097. B, L, D, X, $ UNIVERSITY NEIGHBORHOOD DISTRICT (INCLUDES CHICKASAW GARDENS AND HIGHLAND STRIP)

A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce. 3445 Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE BLUFF—New Orleans-inspired menu includes alligator bites, nachos topped with crawfish and andouille, gumbo, po’boys, and fried seafood platters. 535 S. Highland. 454-7771. L, D, X, $-$$ BROTHER JUNIPER’S—This little cottage is a breakfast mecca, offering specialty omelets, including the open-faced San Diegan omelet; also daily specials, and homemade breads and pastries. Closed Mon. 3519 Walker. 324-0144. B, X, $ CELEBRITY’S SOUL FOOD—Classic soul food dishes coupled with a Hollywood-esque VIP experience. 431 S. Highland St., Ste 105. L, D, X, $$ CHAR RESTAURANT—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, charbroiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland, Suite 120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ DERAE RESTAURANT—Ethiopian and Mediterranean fare includes fuul, or fava beans in spices and yogurt, goat meat and rice, and garlic chicken over basmati rice with cilantro chutney; also salmon and tilapia. Closed Monday. 923 S. Highland. 552-3992. B, L, D, $-$$ EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar (Poplar Plaza). 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ MEDALLION—Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrees. Closed for dinner Sunday. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-1030. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ OPEN FLAME—This authentic Persian and Mediterranean eatery specializes in shish kebabs as well as kosher and halal fare. 3445 Poplar. 207-4995. L, D, X, $ PLANT BASED HEAT—All of your favorite Southern-style recipes, but deliciously transformed into a vegan format. Specialties include the spicy fye junt burger, or the chopped ‘n’ smoked bbq jackfruit sandwich. Closed Sun. 669 S. Highland St.; 363 S. Front St. (Downtown). L, D, $ SAM’S DELI—Everything from sandwiches to bibimbap bowls at this local favorite. Closed Mon./Tue. 643 S. Highland St. 454-5582. L, D, $ EAST MEMPHIS (INCLUDES POPLAR/I-240) ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in an avantegarde setting using locally sourced products; also small plates and enclosed garden patio. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 690 S. Perkins. 818-2273. L, D, X, $$-$$$ AGAVOS COCINA & TEQUILA—Camaron de Tequila, tamales, kabobs, and burgers made with a blend of beef and chorizo are among the offerings at this tequila-centric restaurant and bar. 2924 Walnut Grove. 433-9345. L, D, X, $-$$ AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ ANDALUSIA— Authentic Moroccan cuisine, including tagines, brochettes, and briouates. 5101 Sanderlin Ave., Suite 103. 236-7784. L, D, $-$$ J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 4 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 75

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ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN—Traditional Italian cuisine with a menu from two of the city’s top chefs that changes seasonally with such entrees as Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Circle. 347-3569. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of eggs Benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast fare; also burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 S. Highland. 623-7122. B, L, WB, X, $ ANTIGUA MEXICAN BAR & GRILL—Tortas, tacos, and other authentic Mexican cuisine alongside freshly-made salsa, guacamole, and white queso dip. 717 N. White Station Rd. 761-1374. L, D, $-$$ BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and duck and seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven location; call for hours. 715 W. Brookhaven Circle. 590-2585; 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748. L, D, X, $-$$ BELLE MEADE SOCIAL—Upscale Americana cuisine including lamb lollipops, spicy tuna stack, and steak & noodle salad. 518 Perkins Extd. 480-7054. L, D, $-$$$ BELMONT GRILL—Burgers, steak sandwiches, and other classic American fare at one of Memphis’ longstanding bars. 4970 Poplar. 767-0305. L, D, X, $-$$ BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar also featured. 912 Ridge Lake Blvd. 767-8980. L, D, X, $$-$$$ BIG BAD BREAKFAST—Fresh biscuits, house-made cured meats, jams, jellies, and more for the most important meal of the day. 6450 Poplar. 881-3346. B, L, X, $-$$ BOG & BARLEY—An all-Irish fine dining experience by the owners of Celtic Crossing, and a full bar with plenty of beer and 25-year-old Mccallan. 6150 Poplar, Suite 124. 805-2262. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed Sun. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, X, $-$$$ BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter are among the popular entrees here. Possibly the best biscuits in town. Closed Mon. and Tues. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, X, $ BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL—Specializes in steaks, seafood, and pasta. (Lunchbox serves entree salads, burgers, and more.) 5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 919 S. Yates (Buckley’s Lunchbox), 682-0570. L (Yates only, M-F), D, X, $-$$ CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.Sun. Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar. 683-9291. L, D, X, $$$-$$$$ CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available. 5030 Poplar. 725-8557; 1707 Madison. 421-6949. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. 5101 Sanderlin Ave. 205-2500. D, X, MRA, $-$$$ CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients. 5101 Sanderlin. 729-7687. Germantown: 7605 W. Farmington Blvd., Suite 2. 236-7223. B, L, D, X, $ COASTAL FISH COMPANY—Upscale offerings of international fish varieties utilizing styles ranging from Carribbean, East Coast, West Coast, Chinese, to Filipino, and more. 415 Great View Dr. E., Suite 101. 266-9000. D, X, $$-$$$ CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch. 662-893-3663. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner specials. 4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662-8907611. L, D, X, $ DORY—Chef David Krog whips up Southern specialties with classic French techniques and locally sourced ingredients. Current specialties include pork tenderloin, beef bourguignon, or cocoa-dusted chocolate truffles, with new weekly additions. 716 W. Brookhaven Circle. 310-4290. L, D, X, $$-$$$ ERLING JENSEN—For decades, has presented “globally inspired” cuisine to die for. Specialties are rack of lamb, big game

entrees, and fresh fish dishes. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ERLING JENSEN SMALL BITES—Enjoy Erling Jensen’s specialty dishes in a sharable, small plate format alongside TopGolf Swing suites. 5069 Sanderlin Ave. 587-9464. L, D, X, $-$$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wet-aged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE— Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hot-andsour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Mon. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, X , $-$$ FOX RIDGE PIZZA & GRILL—Pizzas, calzones, sub sandwiches, burgers, and meat-and-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery, which opened in 1979. 711 W. Brookhaven Circle. 758-6500. L, D, X, $ FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sun. 750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900. L, X, $ FRANK GRISANTI ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, filet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sun. Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 S. Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, X, $-$$$ HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as king crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HEN HOUSE—Hybrid wine/cocktail bar and tasting room with plenty of cosmopolitan eats. Closed Sun. 679 S. Mendenhall. 499-5436. D, $-$$$ HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves a variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Mon. A neighborhood fixture. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, X, $-$$ HOG & HOMINY—The casual sister to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen serves brick-oven-baked pizzas, including the Red-Eye with pork belly, and small plates with everything from meatballs to beef and cheddar hot dogs; and local veggies. And with a few surprises this time around. Closed for lunch Mon. 707 W. Brookhaven Cir. 207-7396. L, D, SB, X, MRA. $-$$$ HOUSTON’S—Serves steaks, seafood, pork chops, chicken dishes, sandwiches, salads, and Chicago-style spinach dip. Famous for first-class service. 5000 Poplar. 683-0915. L, D, X $-$$$ LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), X, MRA, $ LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sun. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, X, $ LIBRO AT LAURELWOOD—Bookstore eatery features a variety of sandwiches, salads, and homemade pasta dishes, with Italian-inspired options such as carbonara and potato gnocchi. Closed for dinner Sun. 387 Perkins Ext. (Novel). 800-2656. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ LITTLE ITALY EAST—New York-style pizzas galore and homemade pasta. Closed Sun. 6300 Poplar Ave., Ste. 113. 729-7432. L, $-$$ LOST PIZZA—Offering pizzas (with dough made from scratch), pasta, salads, sandwiches, tamales, and more. 2855 Poplar. 572-1803; 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-892-8684. L, D, X, $-$$ MAGNOLIA & MAY—Southern-inspired, family-owned, casual dining restaurant serving up a variety of sandwiches, chef-inspired dishes, and craft cocktails. Popular items include shrimp and grits and the double cheeseburger. Closed Mon. 718 Mt. Moriah Rd. 676-8100. L, D, WB, X, MRA. $$-$$$. MAHOGANY MEMPHIS—Upscale Southern restaurant offers such dishes as coffee-rubbed lamb chops and baked Cajun Cornish hen. Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.-Tues. 3092 Poplar, Suite 11. 623-7977. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE—Veal Saltimbocca with angel-hair pasta and white wine sauce is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza. 780 E. Brookhaven Cir. 682-1660. D, X, $-$$ MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees; also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, X , $-$$

MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap. 5138 Park Ave. 562-1211; 9155 Poplar, Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243. L, D, X, $-$$ MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/ fusion entrees. Closed Mon. 850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, X , MRA, $ NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken. 4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, X, $ NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties are miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Closed Sun. 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrees; also lunch/ dinner buffets. 5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, X, $ ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, Brunswick Stew, and Millie’s homemade desserts. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, X, $ ONO POKÉ—This eatery specializes in poké — a Hawaiian dish of fresh fish salad served over rice. Menu includes a variety of poké bowls, like the Kimchi Tuna bowl, or customers can build their own by choosing a base, protein, veggies, and toppings. 3145 Poplar. 618-2955. L, D, X , $ OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sun. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PARK + CHERRY—The Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Seasonal menu features sandwiches, like rustic chicken salad on croissant, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed for breakfast Sun. and all day Mon. 4339 Park (Dixon Gallery and Gardens). 761-5250. L, X, $ PATRICK’S—Serves barbecue nachos, burgers, and entrees such as fish and chips; also plate lunches and daily specials. 4972 Park. 682-2852. L, D, X, MRA, $ PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala. 3886 Park. 458-0694. D, X, $-$$$ PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. 1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 8183889. L, D, X, $-$$ PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $ PIMENTO’S KITCHEN + MARKET—Fresh sandwiches, soups, salads, and plenty of pimento cheese at this family-owned restaurant. 6540 Poplar Ave. 602-5488 (Collierville: 3751 S. Houston Levee. 453-6283). L, D, X, $ PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven, wide choice of toppings, and large local and craft beer selection. 1199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 208-8857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 207-1198; 3592 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 221-8109. L, D, X, MRA, $ THE READY ROOM—Duck wontons, bananas “Oscar,” and plenty of other bar snacks and entrees at Hook Point Brewing Co.’s taproom. Closed Mon./Tues. 715 W. Brookhaven Cir. 487-6931. L, D, WB, X , $-$$ RED HOOK CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Cajun-style array of seafood including shrimp, mussels, clams, crawfish, and oysters. 3295 Poplar. 207-1960. L, D, X, $-$$ RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. 5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$ RED PIER CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Owners of Red Hook bring more cajun-style seafood dishes. 5901 Poplar Ave. 512-5923. L, D, X, $-$$$ RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole-inspired classics, such as Gulf shrimp and rice grits congee served with lap chong sausage and boiled peanuts, are served at this newly remodeled restaurant owned by Chef Kelly English, a Food and Wine “Top Ten.” 4550 Poplar. 5902828. L, D, X, $$-$$$ RIVER OAKS—Chef Jose Gutierrez’s French-style bistro serves seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 5871 Poplar Ave. 683-9305. L, D, X , $$$ RONNIE GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— This Memphis institution serves some family classics such as Elfo’s

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MEMPHIS DINING GUIDE

Special and handmade ravioli, along with house-made pizza and fresh oysters. Closed Sun. 6150 Poplar, Suite 122. 850-0191. D, X, $-$$$ ROTOLO’S CRAFT & CRUST—Louisiana-based pizza company’s first Memphis location, whipping up pizza pies with homemade sauces and fresh ingredients, pasta, wings, and other shareables. 681 S. White Station. 454-3352. L, D, X, $-$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster. 6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, X, $$$-$$$$ SALSA—Mexican-Southern California specialties include carnitas, enchiladas verde, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as snapper verde. Closed Sun. Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar, Suite 129. 683-6325. L, D, X, $-$$ SAUCY CHICKEN—Specializes in antibiotic-free chicken dishes with locally sourced ingredients, with such items as hot wings and the Crosstown Chicken Sandwich, and a variety of house-made dipping sauces; also, seafood, salads, and daily specials. Closed Sun. 4715 Poplar. 907-0741. L, D, $ SEASONS 52—This elegant fresh grill and wine bar offers a seasonally changing menu using fresh ingredients, wood-fire grilling, and brick-oven cooking; also a large international wine list and nightly piano bar. Crescent Center, 6085 Poplar. 682-9952. L, D, X, $$-$$$ SOBEAST—Eastern branch of the popular South of Beale, featuring the restaurant’s traditional staples, as well as rotating special menu items. 5040 Sanderlin. 818-0821. L, D, SB, X, $-$$. STAKS—Offering pancakes, including birthday cake and lemon ricotta. Menu includes other breakfast items such as beignets and French toast, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch. 4615 Poplar. 509-2367; 3660 S. Houston Levee Road, Ste 104 (Collierville). 286-4335; 7704 Poplar (Germantown). 800-1951; 2902 May Blvd. (Southaven). B, L, WB, X, $ SWANKY’S TACO SHOP—Taco-centric eatery offers tortas, flatbreads, quesadillas, chimichangas, burgers, and more. 4770 Poplar. 730-0763; 6641 Poplar (Germantown). 737-2088; 272 S. Main. 7793499. L, D, X, $ THREE LITTLE PIGS—Pork-shoulder-style barbecue with tangy mild or hot sauce, freshly made coleslaw, and baked beans. 5145 Quince Rd. 685-7094. B, L, D, X, $ TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializes in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves ribs, beef brisket, and burgers. 1286 Union. 725-7527; 4183 Summer. 324-4325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 3970 Rhodes. 323-9865; 6130 Macon. 3710580. For more locations, go online. L, D, X, $ TORCHY’S TACOS—Plenty of Tex-Mex variety, with creative monthly special tacos. 719 S. Mendenhall. 343-8880. B, L, D, X, $ VENICE KITCHEN—Specializes in “eclectic Italian” and Southern Creole, from pastas, including the “Godfather,” to hand-tossed pizzas, including the “John Wayne”; choose from 50 toppings. 368 Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Cantonese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrees, including the golden-sesame chicken; next door is East Tapas, serving small plates with an Asian twist. 6065 Park Ave., Park Place Mall. 763-0676. L, D, X, $-$$ WASABI—Serving traditional Japanese offerings, hibachi, sashimi, and sushi. The Sweet Heart roll, wrapped — in the shape of a heart — with tuna and filled with spicy salmon, yellowtail, and avocado, is a specialty. 5101 Sanderlin Rd., Suite 105. 421-6399. L, D, X, $-$$ THE WING GURU—A staple of the Memphis wing scene, featuring everything from classic buffalo to exquisite lemon pepper. 5699 Mt. Moriah Rd. 509-2405; 875 W. Poplar Ave., Ste. 6 (Collierville). 221-7488; 8253 Highway 51, North Suite #103 (Millington). 872-0849; 4130 Elvis Presley Blvd (Whitehaven) 791-4726; 5224 Airline Rd., Ste. 107 (Arlington). 209-0349. L, D, X, $-$$ WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, vegetable plates, and homemade desserts are specialties. Closed Sat.-Sun. 88 Racine. 327-5681. L, X, $ CORDOVA BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4114. L, D, X, $-$$ THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. filets to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, X, $$-$$$ GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here. 990 N. Germantown Parkway, Suite 104. 753-5488. L, D, $-$$

JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998. L, D, X, $-$$ EL MERO TACO—This food truck turned restaurant serves up Mexican and Southern-style fusion dishes, including fried chicken tacos, chorizo con papas tacos, and brisket quesadillas. 8100 Macon Station, Suite 102. 308-1661. Closed Sun.-Mon. L, D, WB, X, $ OPTIONS—Burgers, wings, philly cheesesteaks, and more comfort food options. Closed Mon.-Thu. 7940 Fischer Steel Rd. 245-6048. D, SB, $-$$ POKÉ WORLD—Serves up Hawaiian poké bowls filled with rice and diced, raw fish. Also offers Taiwanese bubble tea and rolled ice cream for dessert. 1605 N. Germantown Pkwy., Suite 111. 623-7986. East Memphis: 575 Erin Dr. 779-4971. L, D, $ SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. 384-4122. L, D, X, $-$$ TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available. 830 N. Germantown Pkwy. 443-5222. L, D, X, $-$$$ GERMANTOWN BLUE HONEY BISTRO—Entrees at this upscale eatery include brown butter scallops served with Mississippi blue rice and herbcrusted beef tenderloin with vegetables and truffle butter. Closed Sun. 9155 Poplar, Suite 17. 552-3041. D, X, $-$$$ THE CRAZY COOP—Plenty of hot wings and sauces, plus sandwiches and other dinner plates. 1315 Ridgeway Rd. 748-5325; 7199 Stage Rd. (Bartlett). 433-9212. L, D, $-$$ DIMSUM MEM—Traditional Chinese food truck takes over the New Asia space. 2075 Exeter Rd., Ste. 90. L, D, X, $-$$ GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-you-can-eat ribs. 2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. 754-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA—Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such powerfully popular fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas, tostados. Closed Sun. 1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200; 6300 Poplar. 623-3882. L, D, X, $-$$ LIMELIGHT—Wolf River Hospitality Group brings Wagyu beef, duck gnocchi, and other fine dining dishes on a rotating seasonal menu. Closed Mon./Tue. 7724 Poplar Pike. 791-2328. D, X, $-$$$ MOONDANCE GRILL—From the owners of Itta Bena and Lafayette’s. Serves steak cooked sous vide and seafood dishes including Abita-barbecued shrimp and pan-seared sand dab, in addition to an extensive wine and cocktail list. 1730 S. Germantown Road, Suite 117. 755-1471. L, D, X, $$-$$$ NOODLES ASIAN BISTRO—Serves a variety of traditional Asian cuisine, with emphasis on noodle dishes, such as Singapore Street Noodles and Hong Kong Chow Fun. 7850 Poplar, Suite 12. 755-1117. L, D, X, $ PETALS OF A PEONY—Authentic Sichuan cuisine, from crispy duck to peony fried chicken. Be prepared for spice! 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. L, D, X, $-$$ PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar. 754-4440; 547 S. Highland. 323-3050. L, D, X, $-$$ ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings. 7850 Poplar, Suite 6. 779-2008. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$ ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. 756-9697. L, D, X, $-$$ SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. 758-8181; 4840 Poplar. 572-1002; 255 New Byhalia Rd. 316-5638. L, D, X, $-$$ SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 754-5555. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ STONEY RIVER STEAKHOUSE AND GRILL—Specializes in hand-cut steaks, a fresh seafood selection, and plenty of house specials. 7515 Poplar Ave., Suite 101. 207-1100. L, D, X, $$-$$$$ SUFI’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL & BAR—Offers authentic Mediterranean and Persian cuisine, from hummus shawarma to traditional moussaka. Closed Mon.. 7609 Poplar Pike. 779-2200. L, D, X, $-$$$

TAZIKI’S—Mediterranean-inspired dishes all made from scratch. 7850 Poplar Ave., Suite 26. 612-2713. East Memphis: 540 S. Mendenhall Rd. 290-1091. Bartlett: 7974 US-64. 203-0083. L, D, $ THE TOASTED YOLK CAFE—Churro donuts, signature Eggs Benedict, and plenty other boozy brunch options at this franchise’s first Tennessee location. 9087 Poplar Ave., Ste. 11. B, L, X, $-$$ UNCLE GOYO’S—More than 30 dishes with a focus on authentic Mexican cuisine, from the brains behind TacoNganas. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. L, D, X , $-$$ WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. 757-2191. B, L, D (Mon.-Fri.), X, $ ZEN JAPANESE FINE CUISINE—A full sushi bar and plenty of authentic Japanese dishes, like Hibachi or Wagyu beef. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. 779-2796. L, D, X, X, $-$$$ COLLIERVILLE CAFE EUROPE—From Italian chef Michele D’oto, the French, Spanish, and Italian fusion cuisine includes a variety of dishes like Rosette al Forno, fish ceviche, and sole meuniere. Closed Sun. 4610 Merchants Park Circle, Suite 571. 286-4199. L, D, X, $$-$$$$ CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas (including create-your-own), panini sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sun. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a wood-fired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457. L, D, X, $ COLLIERVILLE COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches. 3573 S. Houston Levee Rd. 979-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ COLLIERVILLE PIZZA COMPANY—Family-friendly and locally owned pizza company featuring live music and other events. 144 US 72. L, D, X, $-$$ DAVID GRISANTI’S ON MAIN—Serving Northern Italian cuisine and traditional Grisanti family recipes. Closed Sun./Mon. 148 N Main. 861-1777. L, D, X, $-$$$ DYER’S CAFE—Juicy hamburgers, split dogs, and milkshakes at the historic Collierville restaurant. 101 N. Center St. 850-7750. L, D, X, $-$$ EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak. 9947 Wolf River, 853-7922; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 7551447; 1492 Union. 274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 867-1883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch). 662-890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026. L, D, X, $ EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemongrass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday. 8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland, TN). 384-0540. L, D, X, $-$$ FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees. 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing. 850-1637; 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300. L, D, X, $-$$$ JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 3660 Houston Levee. 8615000. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ MULAN ASIAN BISTRO—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; sushi and Thai food, too. 2059 Houston Levee. 850-5288; 2149 Young. 347-3965; 4698 Spottswood. 609-8680. L, D, X, $-$$ OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining. Hours vary for lunch; call. 3670 Houston Levee. 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross (Olive Branch). 662-890-9312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 425-4901. L, D, X, $-$$$ RAVEN & LILY—Eatery offers innovative Southern-inspired cuisine with such dishes as crispy shrimp and cauliflower salad, spiced lamb sausage and parmesan risotto, and bananas foster pain perdu. Closed Mon. 120 E. Mulberry. 286-4575. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice. 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 115 (Downtown). 207-7638 L, D, X, $-$$ WOLF RIVER BRISKET CO.—From the owners of Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, highlights include house-smoked meats: prime beef brisket, chicken, and salmon. Closed Sun. 9947 Wolf River Boulevard, Suite 101. 316-5590; 1350 Concourse Ave., Suite 165. 791-4389 L, D, X, $-$$ ZOPITA’S ON THE SQUARE—Cafe offers sandwiches, including smoked salmon and pork tenderloin, as well as salads and desserts. Closed Sun. 114 N. Main. 457-7526. L, D, X, $

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MEMPHIS DINING GUIDE

OUT-OF-TOWN BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, and subs. 342 Highway 70 (Mason, TN). 901-294-3400. L, D, X, $-$$ CATFISH BLUES—Serving Delta-raised catfish and Cajun- and Southern-inspired dishes, including gumbo and fried green tomatoes. 210 E. Commerce (Hernando, MS). 662-298-3814. L, D, $ CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sun. 152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$ COMO STEAKHOUSE—Steaks cooked on a hickory charcoal grill are a specialty here. Upstairs is an oyster bar. Closed Sun. 203 Main St. (Como, MS). 662-526-9529. D, X, $-$$$ ELFO GRISANTI’S NORTHERN ITALIAN CUISINE—Grisanti family classics like lasagna, homemade ravioli, garlic bread, and Northern Italian pizza. Closed Sun. 5627 Getwell Rd. (Southaven, MS). 662-470-4497. L, D, X, $-$$

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LONG ROAD CIDER CO.—Specializes in hard apple ciders made with traditional methods. Cafe-style entrees include black-eyed peas with cornbread and greens, chicken Gorgonzola pockets, cider-steamed sausage, and housemade ice creams. Closed Sun.-Wed. 9053 Barret Road. (Barretville, TN). 352-0962. D, X, $ MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7849 Rockford (Millington, TN). 209-8525. L, D, X, $ MARSHALL STEAKHOUSE—Rustic steakhouse serves premium Angus beef steaks, seafood dishes, rack of lamb, and more. 2379 Highway 178 (Holly Springs, MS). 628-3556. B, L, D, X, $-$$$ MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket. 709 Desoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGOYA—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes. 7075 Malco Blvd., Suite 101 (Southaven, MS). 662-349-8788. L, D, X, $-$$$ PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes. 6084 KerrRosemark Rd. (Millington, TN). 872-2455. L, D, X, $ RAVINE—Serves contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally grown foods and a menu that changes weekly. Closed Mon.-Tues. 53 Pea Ridge/County Rd. 321 (Oxford, MS). 662-2344555. D, SB, X, $$-$$$ SAINT LEO’S—Offering sophisticated pizzas, pastas, sandwiches, and salads. A James Beard nominee for Best New Restaurant in 2017. 1101 Jackson (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, L, WB, X, $-$$ SNACKBAR—An intriguing mix of “French Bistro with North Mississippi Cafe.” Serving a confit duck Croque Monsieur, watermelon-cucumber chaat, pan-fried quail, plus a daily plate special and a raw bar. 721 N. Lamar (Oxford, MS). 662-236-6363. D, X, $-$$$ TEKILA MODERN MEXICAN—Modern interpretations of classic dishes from all over Mexico. 6343 Getwell Rd. (Southaven, MS). 662-510-5734. B, L, D, X, $-$$ WILSON CAFE— An impressive culinary destination in the heart of the Arkansas Delta. Serving jambalaya, Waygu flatiron, butternut ravioli, swordfish & shrimp kabobs, burgers. 2 N. Jefferson (Wilson, AR). 870-655-0222. L, D, WB, $-$$$

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L AS T

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When Trees Teach

A walk among redwoods changes a person. And for the good. BY FR A NK MURTAUG H

ow do you measure a new year in the life of a redwood tree? I found myself walking under this thought bubble last month as I explored northern California’s towering rock stars (wood stars?) for the first time. A redwood can live as many as 2,000 years, growing continuously to heights as tall as 350 feet.

The diameter of the famous “Boy Scout Tree” in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park measures more than 23 feet. That gargantuan organism began as a tiny, solitary sprout … many, many new years ago. What can

we humans learn from such age, size, and beauty? Three redwood qualities will stick with me. Redwood s a re dig nif ied . “Tall” and “proud” tend to be descriptive partners, to the point of cliché. If a redwood could artic-

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ulate its feelings, would it tell us it’s proud? In some circles, pride is considered sinful, so I don’t associate the term with the tallest living being on the planet. But dignified? You could measure true vertical with the vast majority of redwoods. It’s as though they’re competing to reach the sky first, however long it takes. Quickest route between two points, remember, is a straight line. Or straight tree. It’s ironic that a human being must bend — bend backward — to gaze up and attempt to see the top of a redwood from its base. There are “slanting” redwoods, but they are rare, as disorienting as the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Redwoods are comfortable in their height, in the space they occupy, among their many siblings and ancestors. It’s a dignity formed over centuries. And it can be felt along the trails of a redwood forest. Re d w o o d s a r e r e s i l i e n t . Ever seen or heard of a “nurse log”? There are trees growing — tall and dignified — from the fallen trunk of a “dead” redwood. It’s an incredible form of rebirth, an arboricultural attempt at immortality. And these are merely the most visible forms of life that spring from a fallen redwood. Lush, green vegetation near the top of what was once a redwood’s root system, now 20 feet above the ground (remember the diameter of these giants). And the mushrooms. More than you can count on some logs, particularly near running water, where the ground system remains wet yearround. Perhaps most astounding, redwoods have sprung to life from root systems after fire destroys the parent tree. They are determined to live. How inspiring is that? Redwood s a re q uiet . I can “hear” the quiet of the Grand Canyon three years after visiting Arizona’s natural wonder. It’s a

different form of silence, deep below the rim. As though sound would be cheating if it reached your ears. A redwood forest has that form of silence. There is life high above in the canopy, including birds of course, nature’s most elegant noise-makers. But they are so high as to be inaudible, unless they choose to descend, to pay a visit to the earth-bound. Walking through the redwoods with my wife and daughter, we would pause now and then. No chatter, no sound of our footsteps. If I held my breath, I’d swear my sense of hearing had been muted. This, I believe, is related to the redwoods’ grand dignity. If shallow creeks run the loudest, as the wise know, towering trees “speak” most quietly. In our age of mechanical devices that ping, chirp, and dictate, this silent quality of the redwoods is purely therapeutic. My wish for your new year is that you find its form … somewhere. In his book The Wild Trees, Richard Preston writes, “Placed against the backdrop of redwood time, a human lifetime shrinks into a compressed flicker.” What can we each do with our f licker? Watching my daughter stroll through a redwood forest, knowing her great-grandchildren could walk the same trail and see the same trees made me feel ever so small — in a temporal sense — but connected to something as close to timeless as our planet will likely know. Might my new, 300-foot friends recognize my great-greatgrandchild? In some form, I’m convinced they will. Make your new year count. Because you count … a lot. And we humans don’t grow as many rings as a redwood. Be dignified in your carriage, as you stand unique among the rest of us. Be strong, resilient when tough days hit. And find comfort in silence when you can. Sometimes, just being here is enough. PHOTOGRAPH BY SHARON MURTAUGH

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12/14/23 2:45 PM