Quest Magazine May 2022 by QUEST Magazine

$5.00 MAY 2022

THE JEWELRY ISSUE

NATALIE BETTERIDGE PALM BEACH, FL

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THREE CENTURIES IN ART

Ptolemy Mann | Gammel Dok Painting (Light Tripping) | acrylic on canvas | 59 x 47 1/4 in.

NEW YORK | MAY

PTOLEMY MANN WOVEN TEXTILE WORKS

AND

A B S T R A C T PA I N T I N G S

F I N D L AY G A L L E R I E S

F I N D L AY GA L L E R I E S

PALM BEACH | MAY

PWAWL WM. F IB NED AL C R M K A YH G A/ L N L EE RWI E SY . O C O

Noah Landﬁeld | Searching | oil on canvas | 45 x 37 in.

N OAH L ANDF IE L D EPHEMERAL CITIES – ABSTRACT PAINTINGS

E S T. 1 8 7 0

NAVARRA COLLECTION

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PALM BEACH BROKERAGE | 340 ROYAL POINCIANA WAY, PALM BEACH, FL 33480| SOTHEBYSREALTY.COM © 2022 Sotheby’s International Realty. All Rights Reserved. The Sotheby’s International Realty trademark is licensed and used with permission. Each Sotheby’s International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. The Sotheby’s International Realty network fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. All offerings are subject to errors, omissions, changes including price or withdrawal without notice.

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CONTENTS J ewelry I ssue 84

50 YEARS OF THE POLO SHIRT

Fifty years ago, Ralph Lauren set up his

casualwear company, ‘Polo’. Emblazoned with his trademark polo player in motion in 24 colors, the polo shirt became the mainstay of wardrobes across the world. by elIzabeth MeIgher

A LASTING LEGACY IN JEWELRY

Family-owned for more than 150 years,

Greenleaf & Crosby was acquired by Win and Natalie Betteridge—who enjoy a storied history in the business—in 2021. For our May photoshoot, Natalie shows off an exceptional range of extraordinary jewelry in Palm Beach. Produced by elIzabeth MeIgher & brooke Murray, PhotograPhed by carrIe bradburn of caPehart

ASPREY’S ROYAL STATUS Asprey

celebrates 241 years as a pioneering British luxury

108

lifestyle house. The brand recently debuted a limited edition set of 20 decanters to honor HM the Queen’s 70-year reign, and boasts an exclusive collaboration with Formula 1.

100

THE BEST OF WATCHES & WONDERS

Each year, the trade show in Geneva brings

together the main players in the watchmaking industry. We’ve rounded up the timepieces that caught our eye. by brooke Murray

108

A CENTURY OF BUCCELLATI

To celebrate the jeweler’s centenary that

was reached in 2019, Assouline released a new tome. by brooke Murray

114

THE STAX: MERGING LOVE & BEAUTY

After losing her mother to cancer, Victoria

Lampley-Berens launched The Stax, steering clients to both invest in heritage jewelers and contemporary talent to make heirlooms that come from the heart. by brooke Murray

118

GOD SAVE THE QUEEN

Looking back at an art exhibition and book honoring

Queen Elizabeth on the occasion of her Diamond Jubilee—a story from our 2012 archives.

100

A S P R E Y. C O M

LONDON

T H E D A I S Y H E R I TA G E J E W E L L E R Y C O L L E C T I O N A N D 1 7 8 1 P O C H E T T E

N E W YO R K

B E V E R LY H I L L S

MIAMI

PA L M B E AC H

SOUTHAMPTON

CONTENTS C olumns 28

SOCIAL DIARY

HARRY BENSON

TAKI

JEWELRY

FRESH FINDS

New gifts and chic fashions for spring. by brooke murray anD elizabeth meigher

REAL ESTATE

Discussing the markets with top brokers.

SOCIAL CALENDAR

124

YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST

Another month of the social circuit. by DaviD PatriCk Columbia Our photographer captures Nastassja Kinski for French Vogue, December 1976.

Hollywood at its best at this year’s Academy Awards.

taki theoDoraCoPulos

Roberto Coin debuts its romantic Love in Verona Collection, inspired by Romeo and Juliet.

brooke murray

The best galas, luncheons, and benefits in May and early June. Pretty young things partying in New York City. by brooke murray

questmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA DEPUT Y EDITOR

ELIZABETH MEIGHER ART DIRECTOR/ PRODUCTION MANAGER

TYKISCHA JACOBS SENIOR EDITOR

BROOKE KELLY MURRAY CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER

ROBERT BENDER P H OTO G R A P H E R - AT - L A R G E

JULIE SKARRATT SOCIET Y EDITOR

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

HARRY BENSON KATE GUBELMANN TONY HALL ALEX HITZ ROBERT JANJIGIAN KAREN KLOPP JAMES MACGUIRE HAVEN PELL CHUCK PFEIFER DAISY PRINCE LIZ SMITH (R.I.P.) TAKI THEODORACOPULOS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

HARRY BENSON CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY BILLY FARRELL MARY HILLIARD CRISTINA MACAYA CUTTY MCGILL PATRICK MCMULLAN NICK MELE ANNIE WATT

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Clockwise from left: Carrie Bradburn photographing Natalie Betteridge in Palm Beach; Kenneth Jay Lane and Nan Kempner at The Plaza Hotel, 2004; an old sign created by the Historical Society of Palm Beach inviting visitors to Florida to stop by Greenleaf & Crosby’s exhibits on the island; Queen Elizabeth II; Ruediger Albers and Thierry Stern at the Patek Philippe manufacture in Geneva; Ralph Lauren wearing a white Polo shirt in East Hampton, 1977.

26 QUEST

in Geneva. Among the many watchmaking kingpins in attendance were Patek Philippe’s CEO Thierry Stern and Wempe’s renowned Ruediger Albers, who are seen above talking about, well ... “time.” And although he also crafts classic wristwatches for men and women alike, Ralph Lauren is busy celebrating the 50th year of his ubiquitous polo shirt, which has now become the standard staple of sporty wardrobes everywhere (see pages 84 to 89)... Says Ralph himself: “I like the look of things that get better with age ... that have an authentic lived-in look.” So does this aging/livedin publisher. Finally, on our last page Snapshot column, we stroll Memory Lane and peek into Nan Kempner’s legendary jewel box. From JAR to KJL (seen above escorting the wearer), Nan had fun mixing and matching it together, and just plain playing with her bling. And why not, dear readers - we’ve all earned having some fun, most especially in our beloved NYC. ◆

Chris Meigher

ON THE COVER: Natalie Betteridge wears Vhernier’s rose gold Giuncodoe woven cuff, Calla cuff bracelet, and rose gold and mother-ofpearl Eclisse ring. Photographed in Palm Beach by CAPEHART. For additional jewelry credits, visit page 95.

CO U RTE S Y O F R A LP H L AU R E N ; PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

I WRITE THIS from Quest’s offices in Manhattan, where the spirit of revival is ever apparent. On the outward cusp of Easter and Passover, New York City is experiencing its own resurrection, which we applaud and celebrate in this May Issue. To quote the sage Walt Whitman: “I find my visits to New York, and the rapport with its myriad people ... the best medicine my soul has yet partaken” - wise words which we might do well to consider. I’ve been walking the streets of late—snooping around and listening, as I reacquaint myself with the signs and sounds of the City. It’s been refreshing to revisit several old haunts that have reopened, and to renew friendships with those dear pals who made it through. New York’s vibe has returned, and so too its swagger. Under the protective eye of Mayor Eric Adams, New York’s leadership is again reemerging, a refreshing embrace after the Di Blasio debacle, and a much needed reset that we’ve each yearned to feel. And with May comes our 25th annual Jewelry number, focused on a luxury sector that performed swimmingly throughout the disruption of the pandemic (perhaps an indulgent diversion??). It’s been said that magazines, at least the decent rags remaining, are like small “clubs-in-print” that bring together like-minded readers to share and enjoy their collective passions. For most women, there are few greater passions than an emotional bond with baubles. In this issue, Quest salutes a select few of the independent fine jewelry houses that continue to create joy and magic for generations of ladies, many of whom now purchase for themselves without the aid of their partners. Seen above in a candid moment from our cover shoot is the talented and hard working Carrie Bradburn as she photographically snaps away at Natalie Betteridge, who with her husband Win operate their century old eponymous emporium on Worth Avenue in Palm Beach. Classic timepieces (still “watches” to me) also thrived throughout the COVID nightmare, and on pages 100 to 107, Quest visits the timepiece industry’s most prestigious trade show recently held

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Nikki Field & Amanda Field Jordan Associate Brokers

Photography byEitan Gamliely

© 2022 Sotheby’s International Realty (SIR) . All Rights Reserved. The SIR trademark is licensed and used with permission. Operated by SIR, Inc. The SIR network fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Real estate agents affiliated with SIR are independent contractor sales associates and are not employees of SIR.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A

David Patrick Columbia

NEW YORK SOCIAL DIARY THESE HAVE BEEN changing times for all of us. Traditionally this new month is the New York Spring social season going full force. The previous two years of living through the “pandemic” we began to wonder if that “full force” would ever return. The first two months of the

new year have always been quiet in New York with its colder days and nights of winter. There have always been those who can and will head for the warmer southern climes. The past two years were much quieter. People generally either stayed in, and often isolated from each other and the mad-

ding crowds. Or they went South to get away entirely. Palm Beach has always been a “social mecca” for the rich and famous (but mainly rich). It’s always had an “exclusive” aspect to its community life from its earliest inception. That all began in Mr. Flagler’s time more than a century ago,

and that was his intention. By mid-20th century, its original patrons and their off-spring had moved on to higher powers, and it became a town of old families and their offspring—and much of its real estate was still undeveloped. By the 1980s, a renaissance naturally began occur. It was

E A ST E R F E ST I V I T I E S AT D O U B L E S I N N E W YO R K

Katherine Boulud and Sarah Wetenhall

Melanie McLennan and Stephanie Stamas 28 QUEST

Francesca Bodini

Krista Corl, Ainsley Earhardt and Robin Wood Sailer

Karl Rozek and Wendy Carduner

Amanda Goldworm and Erica Armstrong

ANNIE WATT

Lauren Gutfreund

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A PA L M B E AC H N AV Y S E A L S D I N N E R AT T H E B R E A K E R S

Dudley and Peggy Moore

Dom Telesco, Rick Kaiser, Susan Telesco and Barbara Kaiser

the weather (perfect for us Northerners)—and the provenance (always very important), along with its frequently luxurious real estate. Forty years later, despite its privileged semi-isolation, it’s been impacted with problems of the 21st century world. West Palm, always there since inception, had gone from a town to accommodate the laboring class, many of whom served the winter residents across the bridge to make a living. By the mid-80s, with many of the older Palm Beach winter residents, often those who were widowed, didn’t want responsibility of managing a large residence. 30 QUEST

John Ver Bokkel and Kitty Carbonara

Howard and Gretchen Leach with Britt Slabinski

Someone had the bright idea of a condominium tower right across the bridge to West Palm for these clients. By the 1990s, it was an immediate choice for the older seasonal residents of Palm Beach. Today West Palm is an extension of Palm Beach with many private residences selling for seven and even eight figures. Donald Trump was one of the first to build a luxury tower—which I understand he no longer owns— and now there are several with more in the planning. West Palm is an important

part of the booming in Palm Beach. It has also become very social because of its residents who moved across the channel. For many New Yorkers it is the closest thing to our city life but under much more comfortable circumstances, like the weather. The moving masses have attracted more businesses, particularly restaurants and private clubs. It’s buzzing and brimming with nightlife (parties and restaurant gatherings). So for very many it’s not only a relief from the dearth of Manhattan in pandemic, but the

Robin King and Grant Mann

Mac McAnally and Jimmy Buffett

Sun’s out and it’s a lot warmer. Not a few have given up residence in New York entirely. What used to be regarded as a part-of-the-year residence for those who could afford it, has now become full time. So these have ironically been boom times for these cities. The State of New York has lost more than 300,000 full time residents during this COVID crisis. The growth in the number of arrivals in Palm Beach has naturally had a huge effect on the real estate prices. In Palm Beach, it’s been said that there’s literally nothing available most of the time. Because, it’s been either never for sale, or been

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A bought for some enormous price. A friend was telling me about a neighbor who bought a one story house 20 years ago for $1.7 million—a steep price back then. The house was recently sold by that owner for $20 million. The buyer was willing to pay anything to get a house in Palm Beach. Period. It’s a beautifully designed and maintained property but in local terms, not a showplace. But “people are paying anything because there’s nothing available.” This renaissance has changed the social face of the community. People are getting out more—especially the New Yorkers who were cooped up under the COVID rules. There is active nightlife, not

only in the private dinners and parties but in the several new restaurants. Everybody’s eating out. Swifty’s, the bistro that many of the same clientele frequently patronized on the Upper East Side, is now the restaurant of The Colony Hotel in Palm Beach, with Swifty’s New York c o - f o u n d e r, Robert Caravaggi hosting. It’s like old home week with a new crowd. The growth in population as well as the financial fortunes of those in residence has had a profound effect on the community’s social life. It more

than resembles the New York activity. This is not surprising considering the massive influx of Northerners and especially New Yorkers. But the social and cultural calendar has been affected. The events, parties, charity dinners, art openings are beginning to take on a New York pace. Because it’s all about getting out and making contact and building a self-image. For example, Harry Benson, the world famous photographer, was bestowed with the Palm Beach Modern & Contemporary Art Fair’s

2022 Lifetime Achievement Award. The art fair’s evening VIP event benefitted the Ann Norton Sculpture Gardens. The Art Fair this year featured a special exhibition at the fair’s entrance of Harry’s photographs in association with the Holden Luntz Gallery in Palm Beach. Harry’s work is also a photographic archive of our country and our world of the last six decades. Some images are so famous that we are familiar with them without knowing they’re Harry’s shots. The Beatles were the very beginning. Those and the murder of Robert Kennedy in the Los Angeles hotel are only two examples of the significance of his work. Another classic is

K R AV I S C E N T E R ’ S G A L A I N PA L M B E AC H

John and Diane Sculley 32 QUEST

Christine and Bob Stiller

Sherry and Tom Barrat

Amelia Saint-Amand and Amin Khoury

Michelle and Joseph Jacobs

Sherry and Ken Endelson

CAPEHART

Sondra and David Mack

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A P R OM I S E F U N D ’ S D O N O R D I N N E R I N PA L M B E AC H

Sandra and Domenica Fuller and Starr Mauntner

Ron and Philo Rosenfeld

the Vanity Fair cover of Nancy and Ronald Reagan dancing at a White House ball. As a freelance photographer, he’s traveled all over the world with his camera and photographed many of its leaders, including Queen Elizabeth whom he’s shot more than once. I’ve watched him “take” a photograph. I was in one that he took for a book that he did with Hilary Geary Ross in New York. The location was a table in Michael’s restaurant, with me and three New York women, Emilia Saint Amand, Topsy Taylor and Joy Briggs who at the time were active supporters of City Harvest, the food collection and distri34 QUEST

Sherry and Ken Endelson with Julie and Peter Cummings

bution charity. I am a very self-conscious photo subject, and prefer not being photographed as a result. On this day, the four of us were seated at table and Harry was seated in a chair directly about 12 feet away from us. While sitting and waiting to hear from the photographer’s direction, I finally said to the man with the camera: “Harry, when the hell are you gonna take the picture?” Sitting back in his chair, he casually responded: “I already

Cheryl Krongard and Eric Brinker

Amanda and Curtis Polk

did.” This surprised me because we were not aware of it. I never saw the photo until the book was published. It was a closeup of the four of us having a conversation at table and laughing about something we were talking about. It was a beautiful shot. Everyone looked like they were enjoying the company—which we were—and the moment, while waiting for the photographer (who has the perfect eye). The camera came naturally

Danielle Moore, Dan Ponton and Lesly Smith

Sissy and Guenther Koehne

to him when he was a young boy growing up in Glasgow. He had no interest in educational matters except to move on. His interest in the camera was his habit. He just liked to take pictures, all the time. We could call it obsessive because it was steady throughout his childhood and throughout all his life. Harry has no interest in being photographed. When I see it happening I tend to think he’s waiting to get back to his side of the camera. At this stage of the great game of life as one of his subjects, Richard Nixon, described it, Harry enjoys the company since he’s being feted, but otherwise,

CAPEHART

Nolan and Michael Greenwald

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A relaxing on that sofa at home with his dachsie by his side, is the best idea. On another balmy Palm Beach night, Regine Traulsen and Bill Diamond hosted a “Night in Marerakech” at their villa on Wells Road. Guests included The Hon. Rudy Giuliani, The Hon. Jeanine Pirro, The Hon. Edward Elson, The Hon. Eric Javits, The Hon. John Loeb, The Hon. Lana Marks—and even a couple of Arabian camels! Bill Diamond, a born and raised New Yorker worked in the political world in his professional life, as you can see from a piece of the guest list. A good time was had by all, or so I heard. The host and hostess

are very gracious and naturally welcoming. And on another evening, Findlay Galleries hosted A Fête on the Terrace to benefit The Social Register Foundation. The dinner was chaired by Wilbur and Hilary Geary Ross. Benefactors included James R. Borynack and Adolfo Zaralegui, Alex Donner, Christine Schott and George Ledes, Lise Honore and Christopher Wolf. Co-chairs of the evenng included: Fern Tailer DeNarvaez, Mqsa. Barbara de San Damian, Shannon Donnelly, Christopher Forbes, William C. Hamm IV, Lotsie and Richard Holton, Karen Gray and Richard Krehbiel, The

Hon. John Loeb and Sharon Loeb, Grace and Chris Meigher, Jane and William Told, Jr., Trevor Dow Traina and Alexis Swanson Traina and Betsy and Wallace Turner, which featured the work of contemporary ceramicist Amanda C. Ross. The mission of The Social Register Foundation is to preserve family records going back to 1886, which are considered a uniquely important legacy for American genealogical studies, family histories and other endeavors. The SR currently stores an estimated 3.5 million sheets of handwritten family records, letters, artifacts, publications and photographs of its histor-

ic families who contributed to the building of our nation in innumerable ways. Wait, there’s more: On another balmy evening Martha Stewart launched her new Tropical Medley CBD Wellness Gummies. The scene was an intimate cocktail and dinner party, which Martha hosted with Canopy Growth CEO David Klein in the East Garden of The Colony Hotel. The curious and fascinated guests were seen picking Meyer Lemon and Blood Orange Gummies from real gummy-filled citrus trees, transforming the space into a tropical oasis (inspired by the newest tropical flavors). CBD-curious guests sipped

T H E C I N E M A S O C I E T Y ’ S S C R E E N I N G O F T H E O U T F I T AT T H E W H I T BY I N N E W YO R K

Dylan O’Brien and Ryan Cooper 36 QUEST

Aida Turturro, Edie Falco and William Ivey Long

Zac Posen and Frederique Van Der Wal

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A S O C I E T Y O F T H E F R I E N D LY S O N S O F S A I N T PAT R I C K ’ S D I N N E R I N N E W YO R K

Lawrence Cooke, John Coleman and Kevin Gildea

on CBD-infused cocktails out of fresh coconuts with mini pineapple cocktail stirrers before enjoying a three-course meal inspired by the tropical flavored gourmet gummies— finishing with Martha’s famous Coconut Cake recipe. Among the guests: Daphne Oz, Lisa and James Cohen, Eleanora Kennedy, Susan Magrino, Jennifer Miller, Isaac Boots, whose poodle Davis sat on his lap throughout the dinner; Bettina Anderson, Michael Reinert, Colony Hotel Owner Sarah Wetenhall, Beth DeWoody and Firooz Zahedi, Spencer Schlager, Kevin Sharkey, Simon Miall, Lisbeth Barron, 38 QUEST

Emmet Nugent, Clara O’Sullivan, Rob O’Dwire, Teal Finn and Richard Finn

Ed Cox, James Rodgers, Joe Bonomo, Robert Bishop and James Steinberg

Tony Chateauvert, Jane Hanson, Billy Gilbane, and Christopher Orthwein. A much talked about event of the season was amfAR’s inaugural event in Palm Beach. This took place at the spectacular home of Amy and John Phelan. They raised $5.3 million for AIDS research. Tommy Hilfiger was honored for his commitment to the fight against AIDS. The award was presented to him by Sylvester Stallone—both now also Palm Beachers. The exclusive open-air

James Farley and Andrew Roosevelt

Inna Braverman, Maurice Sonnenberg and Chele Farley

event, hosted by Schitt’s Creek star Emily Hampshire, included cocktails and dinner, a live auction of exquisite contemporary art, folllowed by a special performance by Christina Aguilera. She had guests dancing and out of their seats. Singer/ songwriter Parson James, best known for his hit single “Stole the Show,” a collaboration with Kygo, also performed for the crowd. The event’s hugely successful live auction, conducted by Simon de Pury, featured extraordinary pieces of con-

temporary art, which generated enthusiastic bidding from guests. Winning bids secured works by artists: Vaughn Spann, Jim Lambie, Jim Hodges, Gilbert and George, Tom Sachs, Leo Villareal, Kevin Hees, Jack Pierson, Davide Balliano, Harland Miller, Carlos Rolón, Nir Hod, Jose Alvarez (D.O.P.A), and Joel Mesler. Event Chairs included Dee Hilfiger, Robert Kraft and Dana Blumberg, Omeed and Caroline Malik, Amy and John Phelan, and Stephen and Christine Schwarzman. Event Co-Chairs included Vanessa Amor, Frank and Laura Baker, Andrew Boszhardt, T.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A Ryan Greenawalt, Brian and Tania Higgins, Michele and Howard Kessler, Karolina Kurkova and Archie Drury, Michael Lorber, Kevin McClatchy, Howard and Cindy Rachofsky, Nancy C. Rogers, Tad Smith and Caroline Fitzgibbons, Lindsay Taylor, Evan and Ku-Ling Yurman, andSteve and Andrea Wynn. amfAR has been active in Southern Florida since 1986 and has awarded over 90 grants totaling $6 million in the region. As a world leader in infectious disease research, amfAR has temporarily expanded its efforts to include research on the intersection of COVID-19 and HIV. Also on the calendar, the Palm Beach Police & Fire Foundation held its annual

Palm Beach Policemen’s & Firefighters’ Ball and raised more than $2 million after two pandemic-related postponements. The Mar-a-Lago Club set the scene for the sold-out, blacktie gala. Event Chairs Monika and John Preston; Honorary Chairs Linda Gary and Michael Belisle, and Palm Tree Award recipients, Annie and Michael Falk, headlined the event. Tom Mathieu & Co created the spectacular Crystal Ball décor design. Foundation co-founder and President Tim Moran announced the program, which began with Palm Beach Pipes & Drums and the Presentation of the Colors by the Palm Beach Police and Fire Departments’ Honor Guards. Mr.

Moran and John F. Scarpa, the Foundation’s CEO, Chairman and Co-founder then welcomed the guests, and introduced a surprise guest, former President Donald Trump, who gave words of welcome, and praise to the town’s public safety workers. Afterwards, Mr. Scarpa introduced the Prestons, who presented the annual Palm Tree Award to Annie and Michael Falk. Then Vice President David Mack, First Vice President Michael Belisle, Palm Beach Police Chief Caristo, and Division Chief Sean Baker joined on stage for the Police Officer and Firefighter of the Year Award Presentations. Officer Gabrio Badolatti won Police Officer

of the Year Award, sponsored by Devon and Tom Roush. Firefighter of the Year Award winner was Lt. Kristen Ruest, sponsored by Janet and Mark Levy. The inaugural People’s Choice Police Officer and Firefighter Awards were presented to Officer Tom Machate and Chief Sean Baker, respectively. Then Mr. Moran made a surprise announcement that Michael Belisle and Linda Gary granted the Foundation a $1 million gift. All proceeds raised remain in Palm Beach and benefit the Palm Beach Police and Fire Rescue Departments. Then the International Gay Polo League Tournament came galloping back to Wellington with an exciting lineup of lively events for a

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Elaine Agather, Nancy Carlson and Sharon Young

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Jamie-Lynn Sigler

Ken Fulk and Christen Wilson

Amber Venz Box, Hannah Fagadau and Bradley Agather Means

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Flowers and photography by Flower Craft artist Kristen Alpaugh.

ON VIEW MAY 12JUNE 26, 2022

Each Week a New Spectacular Display

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weekend of camaraderie, inclusion and spectacular excitement for all. Held at the International Polo Club Palm Beach, it is North America’s only high goal polo venue drawing top GPL players and avid spectators from around the globe for a weekend of grand horseplay. Chip McKenny, founder of GPL, describes the event in vibrant detail. “GPL celebrates the best of LGBTQ+ culture … color, energy, friendship, travel, and fun. Whenever I am asked about the International Gay Polo Tournament, I describe it as the love-child between Burning Man and Pretty Woman,” adding, “The Gay Polo League event is equally exciting for players and spec42 QUEST

Kent, Inger and Loy Anderson

Susan Kirkpatrick and Nellie Benoit

tators—there are great polo matches and a knock-out tailgate competition.” Meanwhile let’s get back in the Big Town where it all started. It’s now coming back into form out of the cold and grey and basically snowless winter. The season began to take form with Asia Week New York. I came to New York out of college to start my life as an adult in 1961. New York was the center of the world for this kid, and definitely the most sophisticated of American cities because it had a strong and thick population of Europeans, Af-

Abigail and Hampton Beebe

ricans, South Americans, and Asian - Japanese, Chinese, Indian, Thai, and on and on. At that time—early ’60s— for the past century, New York had long been a landing point for people from all over the globe. But the new ones, unless sponsored by their financial assets, were the laboring classes. And I knew no Chinese or any of the Asians. That was then. They are now into their second, even third generation and as much part of the world of New York and its culture. I was a young man when John D. Rockefeller III creat-

Kelly and Joe Rooney

Juliette and Alex Warner

ed the Asia Society and built its headquarters on Park Avenue and 70th Street. To build it, they tore down a mansion some of which is now a “courtyard/two stories” on the first floor of the Metropolitan Museum. To us New Yorkers, spectators all of this impressive “headquarters,” that was the brainchild of Mr. Rockefeller, this was very new, very classy, and very important. As I got older naturally I began to see the importance of the Asia Society in our ever changing world. I am one who still believes we can get along and live together and help each other. I saw the emergence of the Asia Society as an asset. Now, in New York it is

TRACEY BENSON PHOTOGRAPHY

Liza Pulitzer Calhoun and Turner Benoit

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a major force culturally, reflecting the changing forces of the population. The world is a much smaller place. We are on this rocket ship together whether we like it or not. Asia Week was an excellent example of who and where we are. After a two-year absence, this year’s Asia Week got off to a roaring start, when 26 galleries, six auction houses—Bonhams, Christie’s, Doyle, Heritage, iGavel, and Sotheby’s—sixteen museums, opened their doors to collectors, curators and connoisseurs who came here to get their fill of the myriad activities taking place all over town. A gala reception was co-hosted by The Asian Art Department of The Metropolitan Museum of Art and Asia Week New York. More than 500 attended, comprised of international collectors, curators, gallery owners, and scholars in town for the exhibitions, auctions, and museum shows. Galleries from China, England, Italy, Japan, and the U.S. have set up shop all over town offering their eye-alluring array of the rarest and finest Asian treasures— from 2000 BC to the present—of porce-

Howard and Judy Bernick

Mayors Danielle Moore and Gail Coniglio

lain, paintings, photographs, ceramics, sculpture, bronzes, prints, photographs, textiles and jades from different Asian countries. Guests were also treated to curatorial tours of The Met Museum’s major exhibitions now on view. Life in the city these days, I read the news online. After a lifetime reading the so-called mainstream media, I find a lot of the reporting by independent journalists more credible and informative. My main reading interests are the financial world and politics; I read to learn. I also read the New York Post for the headlines and the “gossip.” It’s entertainment although nowadays often jarring with deaths and violence. It’s as if they are now part of the “gossip.” One week last month I saw a story about a 33-year-old Frenchman named Pierrick Jamaux who was almost fatally assaulted on the day he arrived here. Mr. Jamaux is well-known as a “cryptocurrency expert.” He had just come from Hong Kong, which I take it is his main residence, and was about to enter his hotel— when he was “ambushed” by a man with

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A 1 a gun who wanted his watch. It so happened that Mr. Jamaux was wearing a $450,000 Richard Mille watch. Yes, you read that right. What could be in a watch worth 450Gs? How many people can actually afford a $450,000 watch no matter what it does or contains to justify the price? Well, I don’t understand cryptocurrency— and you probably don’t also— although Mr. Jamaux is an “expert” and earns huge sums from the big time investors. The attacker had a gun and as he approached Mr. J at the hotel door, he started shooting at his victim immediately. Mr. J at first claimed he had no idea what the man with the gun was after. The victim was backing

away from the hoodlum, toward the hotel door, while pushing the gangster’s gun down from pointing directly at him. Nevertheless there were five shots—three hitting Mr. Jamaux’s legs. At which point he passed out bleeding, and collapsed on the sidewalk while the attacker was still struggling to get the watch off the guy’s wrist. Ahh, but the watch had some kind of “security” that made it impossible to remove (steal) the watch. At the same time the robber was pointing the gun at Mr. J, Mr. J’s girlfriend and/or wife, attacked the robber from behind and began choking him. This could have been perfect

in a movie. Whatever happened, while being choked, and not able to remove Mr. J’s $450,000 wristwatch, the robber turned, moved to his car, an expensive late model SUV, and took off in traffic. Jamaux has had six surgeries so far. “They hit my femoral artery—it’s something where you usually die in five minutes—it was a major surgery to save my life.” Not the sort of thing you could imagine happening in Palm Beach, no? Ahh, New York... The social life returns. On a Thursday evening from 8:30 p.m. to midnight, the Frick hosted its annual Young Fellows Ball—after its absence on the calendar for the past two

years. Its theme was Modern Love, inspired by the current year-long installation series Living Histories: Queer Views and Old Masters. This is always a black tie affair. It was held for the first time at The Frick Madison, the museum’s temporary location in the Marcel Breuer designed building on 75th Street and Madison Avenue. There were nearly 500 guests filling The Frick Madison for cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, and dancing to music by Angel + Dren. The energy of the evening spread throughout the entire museum where guests mingled and posed for pictures with the portraits on view in the galleries.

Karen and Eddie Dovner

Luce Churchill and Karin Luter 46 QUEST

Ninette Ricca, Jeff Pheifle and Peter Cromarty

Sharon Bush, Laurette Kittle, Kellie Burke and CeCe Black

Kim Renk, Roxann Taylor and Jacqui Michel

Carol McCarthy and Cheri Kaufman

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Overlooking 8+park-like acres, this majestic brick Georgian was transformed to blend top of the line appointments with a rich array of custom detailing. Crowned by a 3-story chandelier, the impressive reception hall with walnut parquetry floor opens to a formal dining room with fireplace and elegant living room with fireplace and custom bar. Distinguished two-story English mahogany library with bespoke brass upper gallery. Gourmet Smallbone kitchen with two butler’s pantries. Enchanting owner’s suite with balcony, two luxurious bathrooms and two dressing rooms. Lower level features wine cellar, home theater, second family room, gym and yoga room. Expansive stone terrace with outdoor kitchen includes pizza oven, rotisserie and grill. Pool house with full bath and kitchenette overlooks new 75-ft glass mosaic pool. North/south tennis court.

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© 2022 Sotheby’s International Realty. All Rights Reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a registered trademark and used with permission. Each Sotheby’s International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. All offerings are subject to errors, omissions, changes including price or withdrawal without notice. Equal Housing Opportunity.

HOPE NIGHT BODY BUTTER Spotlight on Hope Night Body Butter, the luxurious and intoxicating body crème from Hope Fragrances. WE SAT DOWN with Glodine Anderson, Marketing Manager of Hope Fragrances to discuss the Hope Night Body Butter journey.

Quest: For what audience did you develop the Hope Night Body Butter? GA: Hope Night Body Butter was developed for the modern woman looking to pamper herself in a functional and luxurious way. After the launch of our popular Hope Night fragrance, we felt this was a natural extension of the line. We formulated Hope Night Body Butter to please the senses in every way. Quest: What was your vision and goal upon launch? GA: Hope Fragrance founder and owner Audrey Gruss’ vision was to create a body butter that balanced scent and efficacy in a beautiful manner. The woman we create our scents for is always on the go, whether it be in the boardroom, working out, 48 QUEST

playing with her kids or enjoying quality time with her partner or herself. And so it was important to strike a balance between luxurious hydration with a beautiful, long-lasting scent that lasts from morning to night. We worked with a top skincare lab and went through many submissions of both fragrance level and cream esthetics. We wanted a cream that absorbs quickly and visibly softens the skin. After some intense testing, we landed on a formula that smells beautiful, feels luxurious on the skin and exceeds the high standards of our modern woman.

Quest: Why did you choose these particular ingredients? GA: We were determined to source only the best ingredients for this body butter; shea butter and coconut oil are two efficacious moisturizers that provide ultimate hydration and skin softening properties. Additionally, we wanted a non-greasy formula to ensure that the application was smooth and light.

Clockwise from top left: Audrey Gruss founded Hope Fragrances to raise awareness and resources to fight depression; Glodine Anderson, Marketing Manager of Hope Fragrances, and her daughter; Hope Night Body Butter. Opposite page:

CO U RTE S Y O F H O P E F R A G R A N C E S I N TE R N AT I O N A L

Hope Night Body Butter.

Quest: How did you go about creating the concept? GA: We knew the most important thing in a body butter is the moisturization. The added benefit is the romantic, luxurious scent and soft healthy-looking skin. The Body Butter is fragranced with Hope Night, developed by Pierre Negrin of Firmenich. It is a warm, sensuous fragrance with a blend of sophisticated amberish notes on a base of white flowers. Amber and Vanilla bring warmth and comfort with an enveloping scent that is so familiar. Patchouli and plum round out the perfume with head-turning and alluring essences. The fragrance is formulated with two signature white floral notes – Lily-of-the-Valley and Gardenia that mesmerize and help uplift the senses. Quest: When did you decide to launch? GA: With the onset of the pandemic and people spending more time at home, we recognized there may be a heightened desire to seek special moments of self-care and relaxation. This is so important for mental health and well-being so our goals for the launch of the body butter aligned with the goals for Hope for Depression Research Foundation, our sister com-

pany to whom we donate all net profits. Our consumers are making a tangible contribution to this universal fight. Hope Night Body Butter Wellness Tips from Glodine • Carve out time for self-care – read, mediate, call a friend, or spend an extra few minutes pampering yourself at the end of the day. • Taking the time to cover your entire body with this most opulent cream is a true expression of self-care and self-love. It is like enveloping your entire body in a warm comforting hug. I apply the body butter all over, especially in rough areas of my feet and elbows. • Lather on the body butter on hands throughout the day after frequent washings. And also, at night when skin is parched for moisture. There is nothing I love more than applying the body butter to my neck and chest. The scent relaxes me and lingers comfortingly. And some mornings, my daughter goes into my closet and cuddles the night gown I wore the night before because the lingering scent “smells like mommy!” u M AY 2 0 2 2 4 9

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A G E M A W A R D S D I N N E R I N N E W YO R K

THE MODERN MAKEOVER HOW TO UPDATE YOUR FORMAL DINING ROOM

For the past thirty years, the style and design of dining rooms has been in a constant state of transition. Formal dining rooms became relics of the past, leaving behind the days when families sat down together each night for a homecooked meal. Open-concept living spaces became the new norm, shaping the home’s energy and flow. Then the pandemic hit and families were forced to be together twenty-four hours a day working, schooling, and entertaining themselves at home while the world shut down. In the post-Covid era, people have realized the need for separate spaces within their homes, and the dining room is making a huge comeback. Today’s dining rooms are an adaptation of the formal styles of the past, reinvigorated with the addition of modern pieces and accents. These new dining rooms have become an essential space for families and friends to gather and enjoy the simple pleasures of eating, drinking and talking together. It’s easier than you think to update your formal dining room into a more modern space. Swapping out your traditional dining table with a contemporary version will give the room an instant facelift. If you choose to keep the chairs, reupholster them with modern fabrics that have a geometric pattern or performance fabrics with interesting textures. Painting the walls a lighter, brighter color will give the space renewed energy. Streamlined pendant lighting will become the hero of the room as it replaces the formal chandelier. Finish off the updated space by choosing simple accessories to achieve an eye-pleasing balance. -Gil Walsh Interiors @gilwalshinteriors

Jay Hartington

Jay Hartington’s table

Chairmen of the evening were Paul Arnhold, Drew Garrison, Grace Gummer, Sarah Hoover, Elizabeth Kurpis and Indre Rockefeller. The Honorary Chair was Wes Gordon, the head designer of Carolina Herrera. Proceeds from the benefit provide essential support for The Frick’s many activities, including programs which serve students from New York City public schools in all five boroughs. For more than 20 years, the Young Fellows have helped to ensure that The Frick Collection remains a singular museum experience. Then on another Thursday (day) down at Doubles, the private club in the Sherry-Netherland, its director Wendy Carduner staged the club’s annual Peter Cottontail Easter Egg Hunt. And the 5 to 8 year old children and parents/members came Hopping Down the Doubles Bunny Trail on Thursday. Perfect, no? They were welcomed wide-eyed, by Peter Cottontail himself with a basket of colorful Bunny Ears. That was just the beginning. Everyone was entertained by the DJ...MC...Dancers...Balloon Artists, and

Blake Lively

Lorraine Schwartz

their favorite Dinner of Chicken McDoubles and Grilled Cheese Triangles. The Easter Baskets were distributed and then Wendy announced the much anticipated Easter Egg Hunt. A good time was had by all including: Lauren Muzinich, Lauren Gilbane, Katherine Rowley, Francesca Bodini, Lauren Gutfreund, Katherine Boulud, Sarah Wetenhall, Krista Corl, Ainsley Earnhart, Tatiana Perkin, Kate Earls, Virginia Tomenson, Kay Nordeman, and many, many more. And then also on a Thursday, The Frick Collection hosted its annual Director’s Circle Dinner, held for the first time at the museum’s temporary home, Frick Madison. The evening’s program included a presentation by Ian Wardropper, the Anna-Maria and Stephen Kellen Director, on Francesco da Sangallo’s St. John Baptizing (ca. 1534–38). The work, on view on the museum’s third floor, is the artist’s only signed bronze and the only statuette at The Frick in that medium that was made to decorate a church. Also on a Thursday, The New York

BFA; BART GORIN PHOTOGRAPHY

Amanda Gizzi

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A chapter of the French Heritage Society hosted it’s 5th Annual French Heritage Society Book Award Ceremony, celebrating the winning author of the Fifth Annual French Heritage Society Book Award, Agnès Poirier, for her evocative Notre-Dame: The Soul of France on at the headquarters of Villa Albertine in NYC. The program featured a pre-reception, book signing, and discussion with Ms. Poirier moderated by Laura Auricchio, Dean of Fordham College at Lincoln Center. Judith Roze, Deputy Cultural Counselor of France in the United States, and Elizabeth Stribling, Chairman of FHS and Award Co-Chair, made the welcoming remarks. Christian Draz, FHS Board Member and Award Co-Chair, presented Ms. Poirier with the Jeffer-

son Cup and $5,000 prize. Among the guests were: Rene-Pierre Azria, Rosalie Brinton, James Colias, Patricia Cossutta, Denise Decker, Barbara Evans Butler, Jonathan Foster, Michéle Gerber-Klein, Celso Gonzalez-Falla, April Gow, Jennifer Herlein, Brenda Johnson, Helen King, Wolfram Koope, Jesse Kornbluth, Judy McLaren, Michael Massing, Laura Microulis, Tara Milne, Robert and Marie-Claude Myers, John Oden, Egle Rincon, Roberta and Arthur Sandeman Houghton, Kenneth Scheff, Jack Soultanian, Stephanie Stokes, and Marianne Wyman. On another Thursday, a bright, sunny day in New York, and with temps in the low 70s, the first day that I noticed an air of green amongst the trees beginning to bloom, the Brooklyn subway terrorist

gave himself up to police (he called in!), a great relief for New Yorkers. That week saw a busy turn in events. On a Monday night Literacy Partners, New York’s premiere education nonprofit, held its first in-person gala at Cipriani Wall Street, the first in two years. Created almost 30 years ago by a group in the mid-1980s by a group of people who became aware of the growing problem of adult literacy. Carol Jenkins, a television journalist and women’s rights advocate had done a multii-part news report on the crisis. When Liz Smith saw it, astonished, she visited the program. She recalled afterwards, “I was so impressed by what these few people were trying to do” (teach adults to read). “A young man got up at the end, and he

looked like a Madison Avenue Harvard Yale graduate and he said ‘I can’t read—and I have a wonderful job and I make my wife read to me at night all of my papers and things.” And Liz thought to herself, “we could teach this guy to read.” So Liz by her generous nature joined in. For she believed “The greatest of all mistakes is to do nothing because you can only do a little…Do what you can.” That was the beginning of a quarter century of devotion by Liz Joining her and the organization were Parker Ladd, a book publishing executive, and his partner in life, fashion designer Arnold Scaasi. The trio, with their connections, associates and ability to organize, got the word out and started holding annual fund-raising events, drawing

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hundreds of guests to learn about and support Literacy Partners. Today, Literacy Partners has grown with an audience that begins with children. The powerful event, which took place at Cipriani Wall Street, drew a Who’s Who of the literary, publishing, and media worlds, including the evening’s emcee Cynthia McFadden who is the Senior Legal and Investigative Correspondent at NBC News. The honorees were: Dana Canedy (Senior Vice President & Publisher, Simon & Schuster); Zibby Owens (Author, Publisher, CEO & Host of Moms Don’t Have Time 54 QUEST

Veronica Swanson Beard, Karolina Kurkova and Veronica Miele Beard

Vita Sidorkina-Morabito and Valeria Lipovetsky

to Read Books Podcast); and Champion of Literacy Award Marie Brenner (Author & Writer-at-Large, Vanity Fair). Also: Ta-Nehisi Coates (The New York Times Best-Selling Author and Journalist); and Lizzie Award recipients and Mary Wells Lawrence (Advertising Executive, Author and Women’s Advocate) accepted their awards remotely. Other VIPs on hand included Lesley Stahl, Harry Smith, Barbara Taylor Bradford, Sheila Nevins, Mahogany L.Brown, Leila Mottley,

Stephanie Hill

Sophia ChanLg, Joni Evans, Perri Peltz, Cnthia Cannell, Louise Grunwald. Cynthia Cannell. Today, Literacy Partners has provided critical literacy services to more than 25,000 New York City adults and their families since its inception 49 years ago. The organization now takes a dual-generation approach to education, focusing on parents of young children. With free online and in-person classes, parents can improve their reading, writing, and English skills while learning

Martha Graeff

Olivia Perez

more about child development to boost their children’s early learning and school readiness. Literacy Partners is raising money to expand its high-quality, community-based literacy programs that empower adults to reach their full potential as individuals, parents, and citizens, and that helps advance racial and social justice for the communities we serve. Also on Monday night was the Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club President’s Dinner where the nation’s design industry elite gathered to honor Benjamin Moore and design legend Bunny Williams. This year’s event attendees helped to raise just

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A over $1.2 million to fund essential afterschool programs to more than 10,000 young people at 10 locations throughout the Bronx. Held at New York’s Cipriani 42nd Street, the blacktie event was chaired by celebrated designers Jamie Drake and Corey Damen Jenkins. The event was vice chaired by designers Sasha Bikoff, Alessandra Branca, Jesse Carrier, Mara Miller, Alexa Hampton, Young Huh and Andrew Torrey. Bunny Williams was presented with her Award by Schumacher Creative Director Dara Caponigro while Dinner Chair Jamie Drake presented Kelly Sinatra, Benjamin Moore’s Director of Public Relations, with the com-

pany’s Award. During her remarks, Williams recalled her first Kips Bay Showhouse in the early ’70s, and expressed her amazement of the funds raised from the Presidents’ dinners and Showhouses, adding, “I’m so proud to be part of this design community, it’s so generous to not only Kips Bay but many other organizations.” A crowd favorite of the night were the song and dance performances by members of the Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club’s Performing Arts Program. The President’s Dinner raises money to provide more than 10,000 young people between the ages

of six and 18 at 10 locations throughout the Bronx with essential after-school and enrichment programs aimed to help them recognize their potential for growth and success. Today, the club is proudly one of the most prominent and responsive youth development agencies in New York City and a “flagship” of the Boys & Girls Clubs of America. Since the organization was established over 100 years ago, they have grown into a recognized leader among the 4,500 Boys & Girls Clubs nationally. Among those attending: James Druckman, Board of

Trustees President; Dinner Chairs: Jamie Drake, Corey Damen Jenkins, Sasha Bikoff, Dinner Vice-Chairs: Alessandra Branca, Jesse Carrier, Mara Miller, Alexa Hampton, Young Huh, and Andrew Torrey. Also: Alex Papachristidis, Amy Astley, Billy Cotton, Brian McCarthy, Cathy Kincaid, Christopher Spitzmiller, Edmund Hollander, Andrea Schumacher, Cathy Kincaid, Ellie Cullman, Fernando Wong, Johnny Rosselli, Kathy Prounis, Mark Sikes, Markham Roberts, Martha Stewart, Martyn Lawrence Bullard, Meg Braff, Miles Redd, Neal Beckstedt, Nick Olsen, Paolo Moschino, Robert Stilin, Sheila Bridges, Stephen Sills, Thom Filicia. ◆

R YA N L I C H T S A N G B I P O L A R FO U N D AT I O N ’ S R EC E P T I O N I N PA L M B E AC H

Bruce and Lori Gendelman 56 QUEST

Gigi Tylander, Susu Dougherty and Catherine Strickler

Blake and Dan Hanley

John and Anne Surovek

Ann Appleman and Joyce Sang

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photo by Liz Harvey

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THE STORE AT MAD’s on-going RE:FINE initiative spotlights artists whose jewelry reflects the ethos of MAD’s mission to present work at the intersection of art, craft, and design.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A B OYS & G I R L S C L U B S O F PA L M B E AC H C O U N T Y ’ S A N N UA L G A L A

Tom Quick with Jeannie and Tom Rutherfoord

Chris and Jennifer Harris 58 QUEST

Wilbur and Hilary Geary Ross

Charles and Helen Schwab

Olympia and Brooks Bishop

Danielle Moore and Phillip Tilearcio

David and Jennifer Fischer

Paul and Betsy Shiverick

Cindy and Chris Galvin

CAPEHART

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AN EVENT NOT TO MISS!

Gala Organ Concert

Honoring

Barbaralee Diamonstein-Spielvogel and Mutual of America Financial Group Gala Chair

Barbara Tober TUESDAY, MAY 24, 2022 | 7:00PM Doors open at 6:15PM

St. Bartholomew’s Church, 325 Park Avenue, New York City

The Philadelphia Orchestra Yannick Nézet-Séguin, Music Director

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H A R RY B E N S O N

Nastassja Kinski being photographed by Harry Benson for the December 1976 issue of French Vogue, which was was based on Roman Polanski’s upcoming film about pirates.

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY ONE DAY IN MAY 1976, the editor of French Vogue, Francine Crescent, called me to say they were asking the beautiful young Nastassja Kinski, daughter of famed German actor, Klaus Kinski, to be the focus of the December 1976 issue and wanted to know if I would be the photographer. The fantasy theme of the issue was to be pirates... capturing a princess and absconding with her buried treasure. The entire issue was to be edited by French film director Roman Polanski and would be based on his upcoming film on pirates. There was a swashbuckling prince in a long black wig; villainous pirates (character actors from London’s Old Vic); buried treasure…the most important jewels we could manage to take away from Cartier, Tiffany, Asprey, and Van Cleef & Arpels; and several editors from French Vogue in tow. Off we go to the Seychelles in the Indian Ocean, one of the most breathtakingly beautiful places I have even seen. It was a week of hard work, camaraderie among the cast and crew, and gatherings after the photography for 66 QUEST

M AY 2 0 2 2 6 7

68 QUEST

H A R RY B E N S O N

Nastassja Kinski being photographed by Harry Benson for the December 1976 issue of French Vogue, which was was based on Roman Polanski’s upcoming film about pirates.

lovely meals on the pristine beaches. On our return to Paris, it was a nightmare getting the jewelry out of customs, including the silver and blue enamel tortoise in the photograph of Nastassja lying on the beach. The last I heard, her lavish golden princess gown was still languishing somewhere in limbo. As the issue was a departure from the expected, I was pleased it was very well received, as success is always the goal. Nastassja went on to become a fine actress, and from time to time our paths cross. We always have a laugh...reminiscing about our spectacular week as the princess and the photographer. u M AY 2 0 2 2 6 9

TA K I

ART OF THE WITTY RIPOSTE

Clockwise from left: Will Smith slapping Chris Rock at the Oscars; John Montagu, 4th Earl of

ONE HUNDRED OR SO years ago, a down-in-the-dumps Joseph Roth wrote to Stefan Zweig: ‘The barbarians have taken over.’ Later on, Zweig committed suicide and Roth drank himself to death. They were both talented writers depressed about the state of the world. Reading their correspondence last week I had to laugh. Neither Roth nor Zweig had experienced Hollywood, and obviously would have died much earlier if they had done so. Which brings me to what every70 QUEST

one is still talking about, how a trained actor smacked another seal half his size during the Academy Awards. It was done in order to protect his wife from the barbs of the smaller one, although in my experience, whenever someone is that savagely protective of his woman, it is more often than not because he has such a slender hold on her. It’s also Hollywood at its best. One kicks downwards and bootlicks upwards. And what did we really expect? The deep

bow that Talleyrand gave to Napoleon after the emperor angrily called his foreign secretary ‘a shit in a silk stocking’? That would have been a bit out of character for the likes of Will Smith. Never mind. Wit and a devastating retort cannot be easily produced by those who know only how to read a teleprompter. When the Earl of Sandwich, speaking in parliament, told John Wilkes that the latter would either die on the gallows or of the pox, Wilkes politely responded that

GETT Y IMAGES

Sandwich; Voltaire.

TA K I it would depend on whether he embraced the earl’s principles or his mistress. Voltaire was once rhapsodising about a certain critic but was informed by a friend that the critic had just called Voltaire the biggest fraud in France. ‘We’re both wrong,’ said the great man. Noël Coward was a very witty and civilised man who was once rudely addressed by a ruffian in Las Vegas as follows: ‘Where’s de toilet?’ ‘Go to the end of the room,’ answered Sir Noël, ‘turn left and you will see a sign saying gentlemen. Ignore it, and

of the smart-aleck answer. He often told the story of how, when his daughter Melinda was prevented from swimming in a pool with friends at an anti-Semitic country club, he wrote a letter to the club president: ‘Since my daughter is only half Jewish, can she wade in up to her knees?’ At the height of the Russian oligarch invasion a few years back, the great ‘Brute’ Anderson wrote in these here pages: ‘The Russian invasion of Europe makes a moral case for the Soviet Union.’ I particularly

Van Johnson. We ordered some light refreshments, which were served on wonderful marble tables back then. As the American planes approached their targets, Yanni readied himself because he was ready to explode. When Van Johnson gave the order to bomb away, Yanni let out probably the loudest fart ever. Fortunately, the bombs falling on poor Tokyo muffled Yanni’s bombs, but the olfactory nerves of a gentleman seated right behind him took the full force of 14 tiny rotting chickens. ‘Merde, ils

From left: Sir Noël Peirce Coward in 1972; Julius Henry

N B C U / P H OTO B A N K / N B C U N I V E R S A L / G E T T Y I M A G E S ;

“Groucho” Marx.

go right through.’ Sir Noël came off second best when, upon meeting the writer Edna Ferber, he discovered they were both wearing double-breasted suits. ‘You almost look like a man,’ said Noël. ‘So do you,’ answered Edna. The one I like best had to do with the playwright Marc Connelly, a member of the Algonquin round table and an affable man who liked a drink or two. During one of those interminable drunken lunches in the company of Dorothy Parker and Robert Benchley, a man passed by the table and stroked Connelly’s bald head. ‘It feels as smooth as my wife’s behind,’ said the man. ‘Why, so it does,’ answered Connelly. Groucho Marx is of course the master

liked that because in the good old days of the Cold War the only Russians I knew were diplomats, and very polite they were, too. And speaking of diplomats, what I’m about to recount happened when I was 19 and in the company of my great friend Yanni Zographos. It is diplomacy at its best. Having attended a party in Athens where we were told by our hostess to behave, Yanni proceeded to drink too much and consume, on a bet, 14 tiny chickens. With him not feeling his best, we then decided, on our way to a nightclub, to stop at an outdoor movie theatre and watch Thirty Seconds Over Tokyo, starring Spencer Tracy and

ont bombardé les chiottes,’ (‘Holy crap! They hit the public toilets’) cried the gent holding his nose, and everyone in the vicinity collapsed laughing. There is more to the story because the man who made everyone laugh turned out to be a French diplomat who knew both my friend and me and the story made the rounds. But it shows how witty a response it was to a gross act, one that Yanni apologised for every time we met the diplomat for the rest of his life. As I’ve said before, those were the days. u For more Taki, visit takimag.com. M AY 2 0 2 2 7 1

DRIVEN BY THE innate love for the worlds of art and fashion, Roberto Coin founded his eponymous brand in 1996 after enjoying a successful career as a hotelier. Based in Vicenza—a magical city known as the City of Gold in Northern Italy— Roberto Coin’s romantic imaginations were brought to life through the hands and unmatched skills of renowned artisans, telling his story through jewels that truly become works of art. Today, the brand is among the most renowned Italian jewelers, and each piece of jewelry is the result of a thorough process, influenced by different cultures and nature. The ability to transfer the most varied experiences into the jewels characterizes the brand’s collections with an unmistakable mark of identity and uniqueness. Most recently, Roberto Coin combines his technological prowess with time-honored craftsmanship to create the new Love in Verona collection. The four-petaled floral motif repeats in diamonds and in engraving, even reappearing in the gallery of each piece as a reminder of our inner beauty. Every one of Coin’s collections begins with a story. And it is a love story that drew Coin to Verona. Romeo and Juliet is not just a sad story, it is a tragedy. But it is a tragedy of intense emotions, which are missing today, worldwide. A story of two people who went 72 QUEST

against the world, their families, because they were in love. The Flower design is at the heart of the Love in Verona Collection. Its floral motif is inspired by the hills of Verona in the medieval period— the time of Romeo and Juliet. And in the Renaissance, the time of Shakespeare, flowers were everywhere and they represented romanticism—a symbol of love. Coin decided to take all this and put it in a bracelet, decorated with the renaissance flowers, and representing the perfect love. Starting from a sketch of a beautiful rose pattern, very common in the Renaissance buildings in Verona, he takes that inspiration and creates something new and innovative. Just as Shakespeare who transformed a real 200-year old story into a unique play, Coin took a 600-year old design and transformed it into a contemporary jewelry design. He works on the concept over and over again, creating one concept and design after another. In his imagination, Roberto changes the end of the Romeo and Juliet story. The ending he envisions includes a happy wedding at the end. With that, he created the romantic Love in Verona Collection. He began with a bracelet and now the collection includes rings, necklaces, earrings, and an engagement and wedding band set. Roberto Coin’s creativity is endless. ◆

CO U RTE S Y O F RO B E RTO CO I N

ROBERTO COIN’S LOVE IN VERONA COLLECTION

J E W E L RY

Clockwise from top left: 18k Love in Verona All Pave Diamond Ring Band ($8,800); 18k R Love in Verona Zipper Necklace with Diamond Flower Pull ($8,900); 18k RB Love in Verona Black and White Diamond Ring ($3,750); 18k R Love in Verona Rainbow Disc Ring with Diamonds, Sapphires, and Mother of Pearl ($6,500). Opposite page: 18k Love in Verona Double Diamond Circle Earrings ($3,950).

QUEST

Fresh Finds BY B RO O K E M U R R AY AND ELIZABETH MEIGHER

APRIL SHOWERS bring May flowers, and in this case they come in a fashionable form, from Harry Winston’s Bursting Blooms collection to Oscar de la Renta’s Floral Applique Embroidered Strapless Mini Dress. For those looking for more, we’ve filled these pages Wempe’s Blu Colors with all things colorful and bright for the season. Necklace is the perfect splash of color for the coming summer, combining femininity with coolness. $5,885 at wempe.com.

A classically feminine silhouette and exquisite floral eyelet embroidery combine to charming effect on Michael Kors Collection’s Floral Cotton Eyelet Dress. $2,990 at michaelkors.com.

Melissa Kaye’s Pink Zea Hoops with diamonds, 18k Yellow Gold, and Marissa Pink enamel. $8,950 at marissacollections.com.

Manolo Blahnik’s Fiocco - Orange Crepe De Chine Strappy Sandals. $975 at manoloblahnik.com.

74 Q U E S T

Dolce & Gabbana’s Mikado Lock in a lifetime of memories with a Barton & Gray Mariners Club membership, offering unlimited

Portofino Jacket ($2,745) and Mikado Pants ($825) in red. Seen here with the Oversize Silk Satin Shirt ($1,445) in pink. More information at dolcegabbana.com.

access to a fleet of Hinckley yachts. Starting at $39,500. Call 617.728.3555 or email info@bartonandgray.com.

Style Zimmermann’s Frayed Bucket Hat with a Whether you desire the thrill of off-road adventures or a jaunt to enjoy the shore in Palm Beach, the Bentley Bentayga from Bentley Palm Beach is sure

mini dress and heeled sandals for an elevated daytime event look. $185 at zimmermann.com.

to please. Call 561.564.0715 for a personal introduction. A Braman Motorcars dealership.

Crafted from the finest Swiss engineering and silver components, Asprey’s Entheus R2, 42, Rose Gold/Black watch features exclusive movement developed for Asprey. $38,000 at asprey.com. Brahmin’s Pet Carrier offers a stylish new way to travel with your furry friends. $495 at brahmin.com. M AY 2 0 2 2 7 5

Fresh Finds

Rich with details inspired by classic saddlery with a modern and luxurious flair, Ralph Lauren’s Stirrup Pavé Sunglasses feature an oversized butterfly acetate shape and a new large-sized stirrup execution with crystal detailing on the temple, proposing a dazzling reinterpretation of equestrian-chic. $235 at ralphlauren.com.

Stop into Greenleaf & Crosby for Verdura’s South Sea Pearl Toggle Bracelet. Price upon request. More information at greenleafcrosby.com.

Sport the perfect look for Mother’s Day with J.McLaughlin’s Audette Dress ($368) and Shauna Heels ($268). More information at jmclaughlin.com.

Book a trip to Casa de Campo Resort & Villas for your family this summer. From June 22nd to September 30th, kids under 12 will stay, eat, and play

Elegantly subversive,

for free when parents book the Inclusive Package. For more

Tiffany HardWear’s

information, visit casadecampo.com.do.

Triple Drop Earrings in 18k gold are perfectly balanced and cradled by a fine

Vhernier’s Re Sole ring in 18k pink gold, jade, and rock crystal. $9,900 at Vhernier’s Beverly Hills boutique at 9529 Brighton Way in California, 90210.

76 QUEST

chain. $3,800 at tiffany.com.

The Charlotte Inn, tucked away on quiet South Summer Street in Edgartown village, is exquisitely appointed with fine art, English antiques, luxurious linens, and fresh flowers—a romantic reflection of a bygone era. Book your visit at thecharlotteinn.com.

Love and Joy will certainly flower with a gift from Harry Winston’s Bursting Blooms Collection. Price upon request. More information at harrywinston.com.

Oscar de la Renta’s Floral Applique Embroidered Strapless Mini Dress in Blush. $8,990 at neimanmarcus.com.

Akaila Reid’s Pave Mini Hoop with Med Pink Opal Drop Finely crafted in satin with a mini Broche crystal

earrings. $8,740 at akailareid.com.

buckle, Roger Vivier’s RV Nightlily Broche Vivier Buckle Mini Bag in Satin can be held as a clutch, worn over the shoulder, or on the wrist. $1,395 at rogervivier.com.

Available at Gil Walsh Interiors, the Sullivan Coffee Table in Natural Raffia Wrap flat polished edges and radius corners. $12,800 at gwifl.com.

Nikki Field. Opposite page: A private New York City penthouse offering $85,000,000.

78 QUEST

R E A L E S TAT E

MARKET INSIGHTS BY BROOKE MURRAY

NIKKI FIELD

CO U RTE S Y O F S OT H E BY ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y

Sotheby’s International Realty / 212.606.7669 / nikki.field@sothebys.realty / nikkifield.com Q: Why should clients work with The Field Team? A: New Yorkers are indeed afforded a best-in-class caliber of real estate professionals. Buyers and Sellers have an enormous selection of highest-level agent representatives and our transactions more often than not are balanced on both sides of the deal with experienced professionals. Clients choose The Field Team for our 20+ years of deep market knowledge and skill sets. We have transacted nearly $4B in sales and annually rank as the #1 Sales Team at Sotheby’s International Realty in New York. The Field Team Advantage consists of 24 experienced professionals, each with general market strength as well as a mastery of a specific market specialty, location or property structure and our clients benefit from the knowledge and experience of our entire team. Q: What advice can you offer buyers and sellers? A: Buyers: If you are not in the market, now is an opportune time to enter, upgrade or downsize as there are still market opportunities throughout Manhattan at all price points.

Sellers: It is safe to come on the market now and possibly meet your long awaited pricing expectations. Q: Predictions for 2022? A: For the next several quarters, above average sales activity is expected as momentum shifts away from the suburbs and international travel returns. Investors will ramp up, fueled by rising rental returns and extended tax benefits, hedging inflation and diversifying funds with Wall Street’s strong year and with a new mayor… all indicate an enhanced and bullish confidence in New York City. GOOD BYE INVENTORY AND HELLO RISING PRICES! Q: Tell us about a standout listing. A: Rising markets necessitate smart marketing strategies, and my Team has identified the strength and the appetite for “Private Offerings.” Call us for details on our $70,000,000 35ft. Mansion off Fifth Avenue or our $85,000,000 Double Penthouses with hotel services on Central Park. M AY 2 0 2 2 7 9

The Arsht Estate in Miami. Below: Ashley Cusack.

ASHLEY CUSACK Q: Tell me about the Miami market. A: I focus mainly in the higher net-income areas of Coral Gables, Coconut Grove, Gables Estates, South Miami, and Pinecrest. These are some of Miami’s most desirable neighborhoods. The current state of the Miami luxury real estate market is that property pricing is at an all-time high with an influx of buyers from the Northeast (mainly New York), California, and Chicago over the past two years. This market always benefits from being an international gateway to Latin America and Europe, and has recently become a major hub for FinTech and other technology start-ups and investors. These factors have caused prices to jump significantly and hold high, while inventory is at an all-time low for all residential and rental properties. 80 QUEST

Q: Why should people work with your team? A: I was born and raised in Miami and have enjoyed selling real estate here for over 30 years. Established relationships, proven strategies and a creative outlook has helped us be successful for our clients in this market. It is also a positive that we have Berkshire Hathaway Home Services EWM Realty behind us. BHHS is the largest residential brokerage in the United States, and with their name recognition, known reputation and proven successes, our clients know exactly the level of service they will receive and the positive outcomes they can expect. Q: What advice can you offer buyers and sellers? A: I am well known for helping my clients with my “What to Expect” tips. Whether buying or selling, I give my sellers as much information as I can about how to get a home ready to go on the market. The prep process can really make a difference on the price a seller may be able to ultimately achieve. For buyers, I say: “Rely on me as a Realtor.” I do not want them to go through complicated transactions without me as their true partner. I do not want my buyers surprised, disappointed, upset or financially in a place they were not planning to be. Ever. It is important that you have someone help you navigate this market.

CO U RTE S Y O F B E R K S H I R E H AT H A WAY H O M E S E RV I C E S E M W R E A LT Y

Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices EMW Realty / 305.798.8685 / ashley@ashleycusack.com / ashleycusack.com

R E A L E S TAT E

59 West Patent Road in Bedford. Below: Dan and Benjamin Ginnel.

DAN AND BENJAMIN GINNEL

CO U RTE S Y O F G I N N E L R E A L E S TAT E

Ginnel Real Estate / 914.234.9234 / dginnel@ginnel.com or bginnel@ginnel.com / ginnel.com Q: Tell me about the different towns you represent in Northern Westchester. A: We mainly cover the North Eastern part of Westchester County, which includes Bedford, Lewisboro, Mt. Kisco, North Salem, Pound Ridge and Somers. There is very little inventory, which is the case in all of Westchester. There is still incredible demand from buyers who are coming from NYC and also as far as California. A well priced house will typically sell with multiple offers within a matter of days. Q: Why should people work with Ginnel? A: Ginnel Real Estate was established over 70 years ago and has the most consistent in depth knowledge of the market in this area. Most of the larger firms are a prod-

uct of multiple acquisitions and typically are run by managers who don’t have long term local knowledge of the area. As a leading boutique firm in Northern Westchester, we were the number one selling office in 2021. Many of the homes we sell, we’ve sold numerous times over the last 70 years, which gives us a unique perspective. Q: What advice can you offer buyers and sellers? A: Buyers should do their financing homework well in advance so they can be best positioned when the right house comes along. They will need to act quickly and with as few contingencies as possible to be competitive. Sellers should present their home as well as possible. Homes that are in perfect condition are selling at a premium. Pricing is also important, you can still be too high in this market. The sellers that try to build in the most the market has to offer don’t do as well. Q: Tell us about a standout listing. A: 59 West Patent Road was originally built in 1928 and meticulously renovated in 2017. The property features over eight high flat acres of lawns and specimen trees, an apple orchard, and a vegetable garden. ◆ M AY 2 0 2 2 8 1

CALENDAR

MAY

On May 24th, The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering will host its annual Spring Ball at The Pierre. For more information, visit giving.mskcc.org.

The highly-anticipated return of New York City’s hotel industry and Broadway will be celebrated as hundreds from the fields gather at the Red Carpet Hospitality Gala, an Annual Dinner hosted by the Hotel Association of New York City Foundation (HANYC Foundation). The event will feature a special Broadway performance, which will be announced closer to the event. The fundraiser will take place at Mandarin Oriental in Manhattan. Proceeds from the Gala will support the HANYC Foundation’s charitable goals. For more information, visit hanyc.org.

Betsy Pitts and Bill Tyree along with Boys’ Club of New York is thrilled to welcome Darren Walker, President of the Ford Foundation, as the special guest speaker for the 2022 Annual

BCNY LUNCHEON

Luncheon at 12:15 p.m. at the Metropolitan Club. Darren will be interviewed by 60 Minutes correspondent Lesley Stahl. The event co-chairs are Amy Griffin, Ritchey Howe, Beth Kojima, Anjali Melwani, and Alexandra Mondre. For more information

AMERICAN REVOLUTION

The Daughters of the American Revolution will hold a Henry Morrison Flagler chapter luncheon at noon at The Chesterfield. For more information, call 561.329.3625.

MSK LUNCHEON

HAT LUNCHEON

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The Women’s Committee of Central Park Conservancy will host its Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon. Since its inception in 1983, the Women’s Committee has raised over $200 million and manages park-wide programs. For more information, visit centralparknyc.org.

and to purchase tables or tickets, visit bcny.org.

On May 4th, the Women’s Committee of the Central Park Conservancy will host its Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon. For more information, visit centralparknyc.org.

The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering will host its annual Winter Lunch at the Rainbow Room. Since 1945, The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering (MSK) has raised essential philanthropic funds to help drive landmark innovations in cancer prevention, diagnosis, and treatment at MSK. The event will be sponsored by NET-A-PORTER, with a donation that ensures MSK Kids will continue to swiftly translate scientific discoveries to develop new cancer treatments for the children who need them. For more information and to support the largest pediatric oncology program in the U.S., visit giving.mskcc.org or email brandins@mskcc.org.

B FA ; I N S TA G R A M

RED CARPET GALA

CALENDAR

is an award winning composer, lyricist, writer, producer, actor and philanthropist who is being honored for his work with The Miranda Family Fund at the Hispanic Federation. The award will be presented at the Changemaker Gala on at L’Escale in Greenwich, Connecticut. Jenna Bush-Hager will serve as Emcee of this black-tie awards event. For more information, visit greenwichfilm.org.

LUNCH FOR A CURE

The Samuel Waxman Cancer Research Foundation will hold its Collaborating for a Cure Ladies Lunch honoring Dr. Andrew Jacono for his commitment to eradicating cancer. The event will also feature an exclusive introduction to Summer Fashions by Ungaro by designer Kobi Halperin. For more information, visit waxmancancer.org.

JUNE 1

WORKS & PROCESS

Works & Process, the performing arts series at the Guggenheim, in partnership with Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts and the Universal Hip Hop Museum, announces a series of free dance events in the David Rubenstein Atrium at Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts on March 25, April 29, and May 20, at 7:30 p.m. The Dance Floor events are free, and in addition to pop-up performances commissioned by Works & Process, will feature DJ-spun tunes from the most-loved musical genres of today curated

MCNY GALA

On May 25th, the Greenwich International Film Festival will honor Lin-Manuel Miranda with GIFF’s 2022 Changemaker Award at L’Escale. For more information, visit greenwichfilm.org. by the Universal Hip Hop Museum. For more information, visit guggenheim.org.

purchase tickets, visit giving.mskcc.org.

The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering (MSK) will host its annual Spring Ball at The Pierre. For more information and to

Greenwich International Film Festival is proud to honor LinManuel Miranda with GIFF’s 2022 Changemaker Award. Lin-Manuel

MSK SPRING BALL

GREENWICH FILM

The Museum of the City of New York (MCNY) will present its Gotham Icon Award to Stephen J. Ketchum and other selected New Yorkers who have paved the way for the next generation in their respective industry. The evening will feature cocktails, dinner, and dancing along with an exclusive look at the Museum’s upcoming exhibition, “Analog City: NYC B.C.” For more information, visit mcny.org.

QUEEN’S JUBILEE

In 2022, Her Majesty The Queen will become the first British Monarch to celebrate a Platinum Jubilee after 70 years of service. Events will be held in London to celebrate Her Majesty’s historic reign in the run up to the Platinum Jubilee Central Weekend, which takes place from 2nd to 5th June. For more information, visit platinumjubilee.gov.uk.

OXFORD PHILHARMONIC

On June 2nd through 5th, the Platinum Jubilee Central Weekend will take place in London, celebrating the Her Majesty’s historic reign. For more information, platinumjubilee.gov.uk.

MidAmerica Productions will present its 668th concert in Stern Auditorium/Perelman Stage at Carnegie Hall at 7:30 p.m., featuring Grammy Award-winning violinist Maxim Vengerov, who will be joined by an ensemble from the Juilliard School PreCollege Division during one of the concert selections, as well as the United States debut of The Oxford Philharmonic Orchestra under the baton of Marios Papadopoulos. Tickets prices range from $10 to $175, with student and senior discounts offered at the box office. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit carnegiehall.org. M AY 2 0 2 2 8 3

50 YEARS OF THE POLO SHIRT

CO U RTE S Y R A LP H L AU R E N

BY ELIZABETH MEIGHER

FA S H I O N

From above: Ralph Lauren wearing a white Polo shirt in East Hampton, 1977; the cover of Ralph Lauren’s Polo Shirt (Rizzoli). Opposite page: Isabelle Townshend featured in Polo’s

CO U RTE S Y R A LP H L AU R E N ; R A LP H L AU R E N / R I Z Z O L I

Big Shirt ad campaign, 1991.

THE POLO SHIRT It’s just a piece of cotton. It has a collar. Maybe it has an insignia. Two buttons, sometimes three. Yet a polo is more than just “a shirt”. It’s a state of mind for those who wear it, and an impression for those who behold it. Fifty years ago, Ralph Lauren set up his casual wear company, ‘Polo’. Emblazoned with his trademark polo player in motion in 24 colors, the polo shirt became the mainstay of wardrobes across the world. Easily identifiable with its rich color palette and close alignment with the sport of kings, Lauren’s polo shirt became emblematic of the aspirational lifestyles of America’s most affluent forerunners. “When I created my Polo shirt in 1972, everyone responded. Maybe it was the way the collar stood up, or the placket, or the excitement of the many colors we made it in.” Regarding the style of the shirt, Lauren reflects, “I liked the look of things that get better with age, so I made it out of cotton so those colors would fade and have an authentic lived-in look. I gave the shirt M AY 2 0 2 2 8 5

a polo pony because I liked the concept of making something fashionable that was still about sport, like the name I had given my company a few years before. I wanted the shirt to become part of the life of the person who wore it. I never knew that after fifty years it would become such a personal icon all over the world. What I do has always come from the way people live. It’s honest and from the heart and hopefully that is what touches the diversity of people who wear my Polo and all my clothes.” The Polo shirt is to Ralph Lauren what Mickey Mouse is to Disney or the Statue of Liberty is to New York. It’s the signature of the company Ralph Lauren created over five decades ago, a symbol that evokes not only a luxurious way of living, but an effortless, sporty chic approach to dressing that has become the cornerstone of American style itself. Worn by everyone from royalty to rappers, from presidents to movie stars, from athletes to power brokers and everyone in between, it’s at once universal, aspirational, and egalitarian. It’s the character of the shirt that’s propelled it into history as an iconic staple—not just for the wearers, but bound by the piece of apparel itself. It’s about how, when, and where it’s worn. As Ken Burns writes in the Forward of a new book, Ralph Lauren’s Polo Shirt (Rizzoli), celebrating 50 years of the quintessential garment, “That’s why you can watch a kid in Nigeria manipu-

Chevy Chase and Ted Knight on the set of Caddyshack, 1980; Leonardo DiCaprio in The Wolf of Wall Street, 2013 (inset).

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lating a soccer ball down a dusty, grassless field wearing a Polo shirt, and you can look at Ronald Reagan cutting brush in Santa Monica wearing one—and you can see everything in between.” There’s something quite special about a shirt that looks terrific brand new, but gets even better with age. Very few pieces of apparel enjoy that extraordinary feature. The Polo Pony featured on Lauren’s shirts was a masterstroke in fashion branding. Over the decades, the emblem has become synonymous with the shirt that is now a mainstay of wardrobes across the world—though few may remember that the pony didn’t actually debut on the Polo shirt. Instead, Ralph Lauren’s iconic embroidered logo first came to life on the cuff of a woman’s tailored shirt, Polo’s first piece of womenswear, in 1971. At the time, the designer compared it to a piece of jewelry or a watch peeking out from the cuff of a jacket. The design for the pony was originally born from a sketch that was created for an ad Mr. Lauren had proposed. Having already found a place on his celebrated Polo tie, it wasn’t until the following year in 1972 that the pony would appear on his signature men’s and women’s Polo shirts. Eventually, that pony would become shorthand for the shirt and for the entire Polo brand. The Polo shirt has journeyed everywhere, creating stories and memories for all who have made it part of their lives—men,

O R I O N PI C T U R E S / CO U RTE S Y O F E V E R E T T CO LLE C T I O N ; A P / PA R A M O U N T PI C T U R E S , M A RY C Y B U L S K I

FA S H I O N

Clockwise from top left: Filippa Hamilton wears a knotted yellow Polo in an advertisement from 2004; an ad featuring a stack of Polo shirts and polo mallets, 1996; PELÉ sporting a New York Cosmos Polo-shirt jersey designed by Ralph Lauren, 1980; Argentine polo player and model Nacho Figueras with his daughter, Aurora, on the

CO U RTE S Y O F R A LP H L AU R E N ; PA I M A G E S V I A A L A MY; Q U E S T A R C H I V E S

cover of Quest, June 2010.

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Clockwise from top left: Tom Cruise and Rebecca de Mornay, Risky Business, 1983; Emma Allegretti, Hartland, VT; Larry Levan in the DJ booth at Paradise Garage in 1978; President Ronald Reagan and First Lady Nancy Reagan walking on the White House lawn with their dog, Rex, after returning from Camp David, 1986; musician, producer, and

WA R N E R B ROT H E R S ; CO U RTE S Y O F R A LP H L AU R E N ; B I LL B E R N S T E I N ; D I R C K

fashion designer Kanye West.

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CO U RTE S Y O F R A LP H L AU R E N : J E R R I T T C L A R K / G E T T Y I M A G E S

FA S H I O N

women, children, and even four-legged friends. Ralph Lauren grew it, shrank it, patched it, painted it, tie-dyed it, and weathered it. Over time it would become more than just a shirt, and stand for a way of living—serving as a portal into a world of Ivy League heritage, the gracious lawns of touch football games, and the de rigueur uniform of weekend sailors, golfers, and tennis players. Children wear it on their first day of school, for class portraits, for graduation, or just to make them feel confident. Costume designers have placed it on actors to define a role—hero or villain. CEOs pair it with custom-made suits, setting a new standard of boardroom status. And marching into Olympic stadiums all over the world, American athletes wear it proudly—like the red, white, and blue of the flag itself. In the end, the Polo shirt has become much more than a canvas for Mr. Lauren’s artistry—the garment has evolved into a backdrop and inspiration for all the dreams, hopes, and ambitions of people across the world. “In the end”, as Ralph Lauren has said, “It was never about a shirt, but a way of living.”u

From above: A collage of Polo shirts through the years; Christie Brinkley wearing a Polo shirt at the Grand Slam Winners Tennis Exhibition Match in East Hampton, New York, 2009.

A LASTING LEGACY IN JEWELRY

P R O D U C E D B Y E L I Z A B E T H M E I G H E R & B R O O K E M U R R AY PHOTOGRAPHED BY CAPEHART HAIR & MAKEUP BY DEBORAH KOEPPER

FOUNDED IN 1868, GREENLEAF & CROSBY has the longest tenure of any jeweler in Florida. Damon Greenleaf and J.H. Crosby, Jr. initially established Greenleaf & Crosby in Jacksonville, one of the busiest southern ports in the aftermath of the Civil War. In order to meet the needs of a rapidly developing business and the desire for high-quality merchandise with exclusive character, Mr. Crosby explored European markets in quest of artistic pieces suited to the needs of wealthy winter visitors frequenting Florida each year. In 1887, after securing a spot in what was arguably America’s most fashionable winter retreat, The Ponce de Leon Hotel at St. Augustine, Florida’s greatest benefactor, Henry M. Flagler, sent word to Mr. Crosby stating his enthusiasm about securing a shop for Greenleaf & Crosby in The Royal Poinciana Hotel. The firm soon availed itself of the opportunities offered for additional locations in The Breakers Palm Beach and The Royal Palm in Miami. By the 1920s, Greenleaf & Crosby had become Florida’s foremost jeweler, both to residents and to entrepreneurs who were a part of the land rush in southern Florida. In

1933, Greenleaf & Crosby opened its now landmarked Art Deco-style store on Palm Beach’s Worth Avenue, which has remained its flagship location ever since. Family-owned for over 150 years, Greenleaf & Crosby was acquired by Win and Natalie Betteridge in 2021. Win and Natalie enjoy a storied history in jewelry. The Betteridge family has been involved in jewelry design and silversmithing as far back as the early 1700s in England, while their journey to become a destination for fine jewelry in America began in 1897 with the first Betteridge Jewelers store founded in Manhattan. Win and Natalie have happily brought their expansive knowledge and appreciation for jewelry to Greenleaf & Crosby. Known for its exceptional range of extraordinary jewelry— including everything from unique estate pieces to classic gemstones, bespoke design, and contemporary designer jewels— Greenleaf & Crosby is frequented by many of the world’s most esteemed collectors. Swing by the store at 236 Worth Avenue or call for a private appointment 561.655.5850. ◆

Diamonds are a girls best friend. Natalie dons a square cut wide collar diamond necklace (price upon request) and diamond cluster earrings ($142,500). On her right wrist, she wears a wide diamond bracelet in 18k white gold ($115,200). On her right hand fingers (from left): Ceylon sapphire and diamond cocktail ring ($705,000); Pichiotti sapphire and diamond band ring ($24,000); Columbian emerald and diamond ring ($410,000); emerald and diamond “toi et moi” ring ($192,000); Burmese ruby and diamond ring ($320,000). On her left wrist, she wears, from above: Art Deco platinum and diamond bracelet ($49,500); Art Deco platinum and diamond wide bracelet ($72,000); Art Deco platinum and diamond wide bracelet ($56,000). See opposite page for a close-up of her left hand fingers. Opposite page, left hand: A close-up of dazzling rings. From left: Pavé diamond and 18k white gold wide band ring ($11,500); Tanzanite and diamond cluster cocktail ring ($19,200); Natalie’s engagement ring and wedding bands; emerald and diamond three-stone ring ($51,200).

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Stacking on Palm Beach style. On her neck, Natalie wears a Verdura 18k yellow gold curb-link necklace ($56,000), while a retro 18k yellow gold and diamond butterfly pin ($9,600) is fastened to her blouse. On her arms, she sports an assortment of colorful Mark Davis Bakelite

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

bangles (starting at $2,570).

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Gazing in the garden. On her left wrist, Natalie wears: 18k yellow gold and diamond bangle bracelet ($11,900); 18k white gold and diamond bangle bracelet ($12,900); 18k yellow gold and 5 diamond bangle bracelet ($6,500). She also dons a vintage Van Cleef & Arpels diamond and 18k yellow gold necklace (price upon request) and Fernando Jorge 18k yellow gold and diamond Sequence earrings ($19,950). On her right hand, Natalie wears a

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

brilliant 33.62 carat emerald-cut diamond ring.

MONTH 2013 00

Lingering among the lilies, decked in Vhernier. On her wrist, Natalie wears Vhernier’s 18k Rose Gold Bronze Coucher de Soleil Cuff ($25,450). On her ears, she dons Vhernier’s 18k Rose Gold Mother-ofPearl Fuseau Drop Earrings ($4,200), and on her neck, she wears a Vhernier 18k

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

yellow gold diamond wire collar ($6,405).

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Dreaming of summer days in Capri? On her right wrist, Natalie wears: a Turquoise, diamond, and yellow gold Soleil cuff bracelet ($5,600); a Vhernier Giuncodoe rose gold woven cuff bracelet ($35,850); a Vhernier rose gold Calla cuff bracelet ($14,300). On her right hand, she dons a Vhernier rose gold and mother-of-pearl Eclisse ring ($6,800). On her neck, she wears a Goshwara chrysoprase and yellow gold bead necklace ($12,500). On her ears, she dons Marina B turquoise and chrysoprase Soleil earrings ($9,500). Around her waist she playfully sports a Verdura rock crystal and 18k yellow gold Bubbles

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

necklace ($24,500).

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ASPREY’S ROYAL STATUS THIS YEAR, Asprey celebrates 241 years as a pioneering British luxury lifestyle house. The new flagship store on London’s Bruton Street, Mayfair, is not only the birthplace of Her Majesty the Queen, but also one of the original locations of Asprey’s famed workshops. The store incorporates elements of inspiration from the British outdoors interwoven with a contemporary London mansion and carries a carefully curated selection of hero products displayed in a cinematic, exhibition-type format. In addition to Asprey’s exquisite jewelry and silver for which it holds a royal warrant, the brand also creates leather goods, accessories, watches, clocks, china, 96 QUEST

crystal, games, and silk, all unrivalled in quality and design. With 2022 marking the Platinum Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, events will take place throughout the United Kingdom, the Commonwealth, and around the world this summer to celebrate the historic 70-year reign. Asprey is doing its part and has created a limited edition set of 20 decanters inspired by HM the Queen’s love and knowledge of horses, including one that has been gifted to her. Each crystal decanter is intricately hand-etched on either side with five of the British horse breeds that HM the Queen owns and keeps at her residences, including The Windsor Grey, Highland

CO U RTE S Y O F A S P R E Y; J O E L RO U S E / M I N I S T RY O F D E F E N C E

Clockwise from above: Asprey’s new flagship store on London’s Bruton Street in Mayfair; the Ribbon Vase in grey ($915); the Leopard Tea/Coffee Set ($1,450) with Leopard Espresso Cup and Saucer ($330) and Leopard Tea Cup and Saucer ($395); Art Vide Poche in Ink Goatskin ($990). Opposite page, from left: To celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, Asprey created a limited edition set of 20 decanters inspired by HM the Queen’s love and knowledge of horses, each hand-etched with five of the British horse breeds that she owns.

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Clockwise from top left: F1 Sterling Silver Racing Cufflinks ($430); Asprey’s Formula 1 2022 Replica Racing Car- 25cm; the Formula 1 race in Miami; F1 Sterling Silver Racing Car Paperweight ($1,300); F1 Sterling Silver Racing Car Keyring ($460). Opposite page: Asprey’s Formula 1 2022 Replica Racing Car- 25cm in the engraving process.

CO U RTE S Y O F A S P R E Y

Pony, Thoroughbred Racehorse, and, most notably, the Fell Pony—the only breed Her Majesty still rides. The decanter is presented as a set with two glasses in a signature purple presentation case. Last year, Asprey also embarked on an exclusive collaboration with Formula 1, the world’s most prestigious motor racing competition. The combination of Asprey’s master craftsmanship and Formula 1’s state-of-the art technology and innovation has given rise to a collection celebrating a new era of modern design. The collaboration is inspired by the developments of the 2022 Formula 1 racing cars as the sport enters an exciting new era. Changes to the architecture of Formula 1 cars, including modifications to the rear and front wings, larger, wheels, and tweaks to the underfloor tunnelling, will enhance aerodynamics— and thus the cleanliness of the air on and around the track—so significantly that drivers can get much closer to the competitors in front of them than ever before. This allows the sport to become more sustainable and fundamentally change the on-track dynamics. These improvements—masterstrokes of engineering flair—

have also enhanced the cars’ aesthetic appeal, making them anatomically perfect for interpretation by dedicated silversmiths at Asprey’s in-house workshops. Inspired by the racing cars’ seductive curves and contours, Asprey’s extraordinary craftspeople have created sterling silver sculptural renderings of the vehicle in 10-inch, 7-inch, 4-inch, and paperweight sizes (the larger models come mounted on a carbon fibre or lacquer wooden plinth). The exclusive collection also includes a range of small silver goods and silk products, with fine jewelry items set to follow. All are Asprey Hallmarked and dual branded with the official trademark of Formula 1. With a remarkable heritage in the design, manufacture, and restoration of some of the world’s most prestigious sporting trophies created in the London workshops, Asprey has long been associated with the pinnacle of sporting success. Ever in pursuit of perfection, and in a world where innovation and continuous improvement is mandatory to success, Asprey delivers unparalleled quality and craftsmanship with a Formula 1 collection that aptly celebrates the apex of design, innovation, and artistry. ◆ M AY 2 0 2 2 9 9

THE BEST OF WATCHES & WONDERS BY BROOKE MURRAY

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

Each year, Watches and Wonders brings together the main players in the watchmaking industry under one roof. The 2022 trade show in Geneva—which featured 38 exhibiting brands and nearly 22,000 unique visitors—produced strong results and exceeded expectations, with some brands selling out of their new styles before the conclusion of the event. These are the timepieces that caught our eye.

Rolex The latest additions to the Oyster Perpetual collection. Clockwise from top left: The GMT-Master II is unveiled in an original configuration comprising the winding crown on the left side of the case and fitted with a Cerachrom bezel insert in green and black ceramic ($11,050); created from 18 ct white gold, the Yacht-Master 40 has a rotatable bezel set with precious stones whose colors echo the aurora borealis and the glow of dawn; the Air-King features a redesigned case with a crown guard and straight sides, and has a refreshed dial ($7,400); the Datejust 31 is released with striking new floral-motif dials; the Yacht-Master 42 is presented in 18 ct yellow gold and benefits from an optimized Chromalight display; easily recognizable thanks to its ice-blue dial, the Day-Date 40 in 950 platinum features a fluted bezel – the first time that this distinctive

CO U RTE S Y O F WATC H E S A N D WO N D E R S ; RO LE X / A L A I N CO S TA

component has been created from the prestigious metal. More information available at rolex.com.

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Chopard To mark the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C collection, Chopard introduced “The Sound of Eternity,” a trio of new chiming watches, which have undergone a process of adjustment and analysis under the aegis of Chopard Co-President KarlFriedrich Scheufele and led by virtuoso cellist and violinist Gautier and Renaud Capuçont: L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon, L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire, and L.U.C Strike One models.

Jaeger-LeCoultre The new Atmos Infinite ($15,100) features a new base and glass case, black lacquered dial, and hands in silver rhodium finish. It brings with it a contemporary focus as it revisits the aesthetics of the famous clock that lives with the air of time. A temperature is enough to provide 48 hours of autonomy to this almost perpetual clock.

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CO U RTE S Y O F J A E G E R - LE CO U LT R E ; F E D E R A L - S T U D I O

variation of only one degree Celsius in the ambient

Hermès Created in 1975, the Kelly watch reveals new facets of its free-spirited attitude. Whether a metal bracelet, diamond-set or worn as a sautoir necklace, it demonstrates a light-hearted gift for self-reinvention. Inset: Crafted in platinum and titanium or in steel, the Arceau Le temps voyageur watch lends itself to a new expression of style and

CO U RTE S Y O F H E R M È S ; M A R K K E A N ; J O E L V O N A LL M E N

evokes the spirit of travel according to Hermès.

Cartier Clockwise from above: Inspired by the spectacular rock-crystal and diamond bracelet created in the 1930s and worn by actress freedom; the Métiers d’Art with a yellow gold bezel and buckle set with 103 brilliant-cut diamonds, a dial with panther motif in enamel on gold leaf crown, and black and blue alligator leather straps; the Cartier Privé collection celebrates the Maison’s iconic models through limited-edition numbered watches, rare creations that combine the brand’s heritage and today’s aesthetic vision.

CO U RTE S Y O F C A RT I E R

Gloria Swanson, this Cartier Libre jewelery watch embodies creative

Piaget Shown here in a cobalt alloy case, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch was first presented in Geneva at the Watches and Wonders fair in 2018 to huge acclaim from the watch community as the world’s thinnest

CO U RTE S Y O F PI A G E T

mechanical watch— only 2 mm thin!

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Van Cleef & Arpels The Lady Duo de Lions watch (left) and the Lady Duo de Lapins watch (right). On the dial of the Lady Duo de Lions watch, traditional crafts come together to create an in-depth landscape. In the foreground, a couple of lions is sculpted in relief from white and yellow gold. At their feet, a surface of precious stones evokes savanna while turquoise and diamonds suggest shimmering water in the sun. On the Lady Duo de Lapins watch, sculpture on mother-of-pearl brings to life a pair of rabbits, exchanging glances. Around them, a garden of gemstones is home to vegetation. The

TAG HEUER The Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver ($6,650) offers the ultimate luxury dive watch: new COSC caliber TH30-00, a resistance over 1.000m, a helium valve, and a remarkable design.

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CO U RTE S Y O F VA N C LE E F & A R P E L S ; WATC H E S A N D WO N D E R S

sun spreads intense reflections and reveals a lapis lazuli cloud.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Reference 5205 ($ 55,590), with its day/date/month apertures arranged along the arc of a circle, was launched in 2010 as two white gold versions. In 2022, Patek Philippe revisits this model in an original and contemporary olive green. Inset: Wempe’s buying team with Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern (center) on site in Geneva. Wempe is an official retailer of Patek Philippe. For model availability, visit wempe.com or call

CO U RTE S Y O F PATE K P H I L I P P E

212.397.9000. u

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A CENTURY OF BUCCELLATI NOW ONE OF Italy’s most renowned jewelers, Buccellati was established by Mario Buccellati, a Renaissance goldsmith’s apprentice, in 1919. Following World War I, as producers increasingly turned to machine technology and mass production, Mario stood out for his expertise in handcrafting, with his pieces defined by individualism, timelessness, and cultural relevance. Buccellati’s style and brand was kept alive not only by Mario’s family, but also the many artisans in the workshops of Milan today who are descendants of the original team. To celebrate the company’s centenary that was reached in 2019, Assouline has released a new tome, Buccellati: A Century of Timeless Beauty. The volume tells the story of four generations of the jeweler’s craftsmanship—each taking the torch from the previous one, adding new trends and evolutionary styles while still preserving the age-old techniques passed on by Mario. Vivienne Becker, an award-winning author who has written several books on the history of jewelry design, provides an introduction with the history of the Buccellati family, dating 108 QUEST

CO U RTE S Y O F A S S O U L I N E ; A P LO M B P H OTO S T U D I O

BY BROOKE MURRAY

This spread, from left: Bangle bracelet of yellow and white gold set with citrine and diamonds, 1959, Buccellati collection; the cover of Buccellati: A Century of Timeless Beauty.

back to Mario’s time in Milan. Mario’s success came naturally, and he quickly established an affluent clientele characterized by royalty, nobility, high society, and Milan’s intelligentsia. Over time, Mario continued to perfect his engraving skills, establishing the trademark Buccellati style. “He was drawn to intriguing colored cabochon gems and to rose-cut diamonds, once again bucking the trend for sharp geometric cuts and showy brilliant-cut diamonds,” said Becker. He also set his stones in combinations of silver and gold, an antique approach that was prominent in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Mario, enthralled by Italy’s past, also branched out to design silver objects, boxes, tableware, and ornaments. No matter the item, all pieces produced at the hands of Buccellati were made with traditional style yet were timelessly modern. After Mario’s death in 1965, his son Gianmaria took over to lead the house, aiming to attract a younger, newly wealthy clientele. His style was characterized by his use of vibrant gem colors that echoed the spirit of the 1960s and 1970s, drawing inspiration from ancient mosaics and the disco lights of the time. By the late 1970s, Gianmaria’s son Andrea began working closely alongside his father, introducing geometric, graphic, and linear style to the brand. “In Andrea’s hands, the Rococoinspired, garlanded and engraved gold borders became more angular, with a distinctive zigzag silhouette that became one of his style signatures. Floral forms morphed into stars or sunbursts, and the Rococo scrolls were deconstructed, made more abstract and positioned at unexpected angles to create dancing silhouettes,” said Becker. After the retirement of Gianmaria in 2013, Andrea began working with his daughter Lucrezia, the eldest of the fourth generation, with whom he 10100QQUUEESSTT

A P LO M B P H OTO S T U D I O ; PAU L S L A D E / PA R I S M ATC H / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; B U CC E LL AT I A R C H I V E ; R AO U L V E N T U R A

Honeycomb pendant earrings of white and yellow gold set with emerald and diamonds, 2017. Opposite page, counterclockwise from top right: Renowned soprano Renata Tebaldi outside the Mario Buccellati boutique in New York, 1963; Mario Buccellati’s first boutique in Milan, on Via Santa Margherita; Maria Cristina, Luca, Andrea, and Lucrezia Buccellati.

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Model wearing iconic Eternelle rings and cuff and bangle bracelets, photographed by Isabelle Bonjean for Citizen K International, Spring 2017. Opposite page, from above: Artisans demonstrate secrets of Buccellati workmanship during the Opera collection launch event at Spencer House in London, 2015; band rings of different colors of gold set with a rose-cut diamond, a fancy yellow diamond, a ruby and diamonds.

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now serves as the brand’s co-creative director. Lucrezia, who has always been passionate about art, aspires to bring a youthful approach to Buccellati. “Her aim,” said Becker, “is to create comfortable, wearable jewelry that is relevant to today’s multifaceted lifestyles and to meet the generational challenge of maintaining the essential timelessness of Buccellati, while designing jewels that capture their moment in time. Continually pushing boundaries of modernity, Lucrezia is driving her father’s minimalism toward a more avant-garde expression.” The book also features researched text from Alba Cappellieri, a professor at Milan Polytechnic who holds classes on jewelry design, and Franco Cologni, President of Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte. “I hope this book will be able to convey Buccellati’s centuryold story to anyone eager to read about previously unheard details, interesting and new historical insights, and a family passionately dedicated to beauty,” remarked Andrea Buccellati. u M AY 2 0 2 2 1 1 3

THE STAX: MERGING LOVE & BEAUTY AFTER LOSING her mother to cancer five years ago, Victoria Lampley-Berens sought a way to channel her grief into something beautiful and sentimental. For her, sourcing jewelry was the perfect answer, allowing her to help others commemorate happy moments in their lives, like an engagement or birth of a child, or honor the loss of a loved one. During the throes of COVID, Lampley-Berens turned this dream into a reality, officially launching The Stax in early Spring of 2021. The company is analogous to an art advisor, steering clients to both invest in heritage jewelers and contemporary talent to make heirlooms that come from the heart. Inspired by her mother’s love of jewelry and the pieces she inherited, LampleyBerens strives to help others create the same connections to meaningful pieces. Most recently, The Stax partnered with Sotheby’s Palm Beach, and presented a curated selection of fine jewelry from international female designers in the lead up to Mother’s Day. “David Rothschild, the Senior Vice President and Senior Specialist of Private Sales at Sotheby’s, saw one of our early Instagram posts spotlighting a vintage bespoke ring of my late mother, and reached out. Then we brainstormed a way of merging the aesthetic world of The Stax with Sotheby’s heritage, and it all took off from there. It’s a totally serendipitous twist of fate—my late mother lived in Palm Beach for

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BY BROOKE MURRAY

Clockwise from above: Alice Cicolini’s High Sari Odisha Ring ($27,200) was inspired by the geometric symbols that adorn Orissan saris; Victoria Lampley-Berens; Lydia Courteille’s Rainbow Warrior Collection Cocktail Ring

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($18,704). Opposite page, counterclockwise from top left: Alice Cicolini’s Memphis Multiband One of a Kind Ring ($16,750); Anne Baker’s Lovers Tourmaline Heart Earring Jackets with South Sea Pearl Studs ($18,500); Victoria Lampley-Berens with her mother, Joanne Lampley Metcalf, and her sister, Brooke Lampley Papagianis, when they first moved to Palm Beach, photographed by Tierney Gearon. M AY 2 0 2 2 1 1 5

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a time, and she loved jewelry. I wanted to start this business in honor of her, so everything about this partnership felt right,” said Lampley-Berens. The exhibition, which featured more than 100 pieces from female-led jewelers, benefited Mother Lovers, a non-profit that raises awareness for the maternal health crisis in the U.S. “In terms of style, we wanted to mix the glamour and nostalgia of the Slim Aarons Palm Beach world with the contemporary new-wave of international clientele and residents who have flocked to Palm Beach,” said Lampley-Berens. The Sotheby’s exhibition displayed a brilliant mix of classics and contemporary must-haves, along with a handful of exclusive pieces that have never been on display before—a curation that captured Palm Beach style. “Reflecting the tropical landscape, the cocktail parties, the prints on prints from head-to-toe, and the layering of heritage and antique jewelry stacked with modern and contemporary pieces, our exhibit really paid homage to my love for the island and its history,” said Lampley-Berens. As of 2022, The Stax has shifted from working solely with personal clients and providing advisory for their collections, to a more hybrid model. In addition to sourcing jewelry and commissioning bespoke pieces, The Stax now also works alongside a selection of retained jewelry clients to advise them on everything from brand storytelling, fostering relationships with people of influence, showroom and PR introductions, brand collaborations, increasing production, trunk shows, social strategy, styling campaigns, business development, and more. Having grown up all over the globe, Lampley-Berens has built an extensive and international network to help clients gain awareness of both domestic and international markets. Her business partner, Laurel Pantin, grew up in Austin and is now with ByGeorge, so The Stax has particularly been gaining traction in Texas. No matter what project she’s working on or where, it’s love that—at the end of the day—keeps Lampley-Berens moving forward and will continue to be the main motivation for the future of the company. “It may sound mushy, but I love love!” said Lampley-Berens. “From the love for my family, to the love for a magnificent stone, or beach, or a memory. Love permeates everything I do, and my goal is to always strive towards love in my business and away from fear.” u From above: Nina Runsdorf’s Emerald Double Spiral Hoop Earrings ($38,500); Renna’s Venus Locket, Chappy Pendant, and Salt Creek Pendant on 18” Vesper Chain ($13,200). CO U RTE S Y O F T H E S TA X

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Victoria Lampley-Beren’s with the Mother Lovers team (Paula Goldstein, Sara Ojjeh, and Rebecca Dayan) at Sotheby’s; Lydia Courteille’s Maracaibo Crocodile Earrings ($43,008); Sotheby’s Palm Beach at The Royal Poinciana Plaza; Carolina Bucci’s Cff Cuff 5cm Bracelet ($16,440); Lampley-Berens’ aunt, Fern Mallis, with Lampley-Berens’ sister, Brooke Lampley Papagianis; modeling the Nina Runsdorf Emerald Sugarloaf Ring ($295,000) at the Sotheby’s exhibition. M AY 2 0 2 2 1 1 7

QUEST NOSTALGIA MAY 2012 This page: Queen Victoria’s small diamond crown. Opposite page: Snuff box made for King Frederick the Great of Prussia. Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh at a Service of Thanksgiving for Her Majesty’s 80th Birthday at St. Paul’s Cathedral, June 15, 2006 (inset).

GOD SAVE THE QUEEN BY GEORGINA SCHAEFFER EVERY YEAR, the Royal Collection hosts a variety of exhibitions,

but the efforts to fête Queen Elizabeth on the occasion of her Diamond Jubilee are particularly notable. The first, “The Queen: 60 Photographs for 60 Years,” is now on view at Windsor Castle through October 28. It celebrates Queen Elizabeth’s 60 years as sovereign, beginning with the early days of her reign in the 1950s and ending with the present day as displayed through a selection of 60 photographs. The work of 118 QUEST

leading press photographers is included, as captured over the past six decades. The selection is varied, showcasing both key events in her life as a monarch and more informal moments with her family. Taken as a collective, the images present a full and well-rounded portait of a unique woman who has had to confront the changing role of an ancient institution as it enters a modern age. But the exhibition also delights in speaking to its subject’s role as daughter, sister, wife, mother, and grandmother.

Taken as a collective, the images present a well-rounded portrait of a unique woman who has had to confront the changing role

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of an ancient institution.

This page, clockwise from top: The Williamson Brooch; Queen Victoria’s fringe brooch; the Girls of Great Britian Tiara; the Queen and the Duke at Badminton Horse Trials, 1968. Opposite page: The Coronation necklace and earrings. Airport with her dogs, 1974.

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The Queen arrives at Aberdeen

Diamonds carry associations of beauty, purity, and magnificence, as well as endurance and longevity. Ultimately, these qualities seem to lend themselves to the Queen’s remarkable reign.

Another special exhibition opens later in the year at Buckingham Palace on June 30. “Diamonds: A Jubilee Celebration” will be an unprecedented display of a number of the Queen’s personal pieces, both inherited and acquired. The show will reveal how extraordinary stones are often reset and reconfigured over the years, allowing for their own fascinating history. Diamonds, in and of themselves, carry associations of beauty, purity, and magnificence. But they are often touted as the hardest substance on earth, a material known for its endurance and longevity. Ultimately, these qualities seem to lend themselves to the Queen’s remarkable reign. u

THE CROWN JEWELS BY GEORGINA SCHAEFFER

the coronation itself) to the Imperial State Crown (which is used for the opening of Parliament). Written by the Curatorial Director of English Heritage, Anna Kaey, the text describes the development of the collection in the medieval period, the dramatic sale and melting down of almost every piece after the execution of Charles I in 1649, and the remaking of the Crown Jewels for Charles II in 1660. The collection has grown over time with pieces created for momentous events in British history, from the additional regalia created for joint monarchs William III and Mary II, to the crown made for King George V’s inauguration as Emperor of India in 1911. From the regalia, to the processional objects, to the major gems, the Crown Jewels ultimately tells the story of the British monarchy itself through these priceless pieces. u This page, from top: the Imperial State Crown; Queen Elizabeth II; the Queen of England on her wedding day. Opposite page, clockwise from top: The Salt of State, 1630; the sovereign’s sceptre with cross, 1661; St. Edward’s crown, 1661; the coronation regalia of Charles II, 1660-1661; a plate (1660-61) belonging to James, Duke of York; the sovereign’s orb, 1661; the sword of offering, 1820.

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THE MOST SPECTACULAR collection of royal regalia in the world—from a 12th-century golden spoon used for annointing monarchs at their coronations to the platinum consort crown set with the famous Koh-i-Nûr diamond created for the Queen Mother in 1937— comes to life in a new book entitled The Crown Jewels (Thames & Hudson). Published in association with the Royal Collection and Historic Royal Palaces, this prodigious work is illustrated with nearly 300 images, presenting, for the first time, the complete inventory of this illustrious collection of ceremonial objects housed in the Tower of London and guarded by the famous Yeomen Warders. With special, newly commissioned photography, the collection is revealed through incredibly detailed photographs, allowing for each piece and every gem to be seen by the reader almost as closely as from the perspective of the royal jeweler himself (the only other person in the world other than the Queen allowed to touch the jewels). Compelling groupings of items also illustrate the context, history, and use of many of the pieces in the collection— from St. Edward’s Crown (used only for

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THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST BY BROOKE MURRAY

Lauren Santo Domingo, Bronson van Wyck, and Princess Maria-Olympia of Greece and Denmark.

Clockwise from top left: Patricia Bonaldi and Xenia Adonts; Lizzie Asher, Timo Weiland, and Rebecca Dayan; Casey Fremont Crowe, Emily Smith, and Elizabeth Kurpis; Jane Keltner de Valle, Laura Kim, Gucci Westman, Nicky Hilton, and Fernando Garcia.

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SAVE VENICE’S BALL IN NEW YORK AFTER A TWO-YEAR hiatus, Save Venice’s black-tie masquerade ball returned to New York City. The event, sponsored by BVLGARI, Oscar de la Renta, and Select Aperitivo, was held at Cipriani South Street. Bronson Van Wyck designed the interiors to match this year’s theme: Enchantment by the Sea. The evening raised funds to support the organization’s mission to preserve the artistic heritage of Venice. M AY 2 0 2 2 1 2 5

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CINEMA SOCIETY’S PARTY FOR INFINITE STORM LAST MONTH, the Cinema Society and Bleecker Street hosted a screening of Infinite Storm at the Regal Union Square. The film, directed by Małgorzata Szumowska, tells a gripping true story about a climber who gets caught in a blizzard, and stars Naomi Watts, Billy Howle, Denis O’Hare, and Parker Sawyers. An afterparty was held at Alphabet Bar later on.

Noma Dumezweni and Naomi Watts Rebecca Dylan

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Alina Baikova

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THE FRICK COLLECTION’S YOUNG FELLOWS BALL ON MARCH 31ST, the Frick Collection hosted its annual Young Fellows Ball at its temporary location on Madison Avenue. The event’s theme this year, “Modern Love,” was inspired by the current year-long installation series, Living Histories: Queer Views and Old Masters. The evening featured cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, and dancing to music by Angel + Dren. Proceeds from the benefit support for the museum’s acclaimed programs of the Frick Art Reference Library and the Education Department, which serve students from New York City public schools in all five boroughs. u

Zion Moreno, Savannah Smith, Indré Rockefeller, Wes Gordon, Sarah Hoover, and Paul Arnhold

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Whitney Price and Jessica Markowski

Mercedes de Guardiola Alexander Hankin and Polina Proshkina

Alexis Light and Heath Grout M AY 2 0 2 2 1 2 7

SNAPSHOT

Clockwise fom left: Yves Saint Laurent and Nan Kempner, 1978; Nan Kempner, Fran Stark, and Jacqueline de Ribes; Kenneth Jay Lane and Nan Kempner at The Plaza Hotel, 2004.

“I’VE ALWAYS LIKED being noticed, and I work hard at it,” said Nan Kempner in an interview with Annette Tapert in 1999. Mrs. Kempner surely succeeded in her conquest, for she will forever be known for her extraordinary fashion (she is a member of Fashion’s Hall of Fame), charitable giving (she helped raise $75,000,000 for the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center over 30 years), and remarkable dinner parties (Nan’s intimate Sunday-night spaghetti dinners were not to be missed as you never knew who might turn up: Princess Di? Nancy Reagan?). Born Nan Field Schlesinger in San Francisco in 1930, Nan’s father, Albert “Speed” Schlesinger, owned a successful car dealership and reportedly told the young Nan, “You’ll never make it on your face, so you’d better be interesting.” Nan’s mother, Irma Schlesinger, was a San Francisco society fixture who was quite a fashion plate herself. Nan married Thomas Lenox Kempner, a member of the Loeb banking family, in 1952 and had three children. The couple lived in London for a short time before moving to New York City and into a 16-room duplex on Park Avenue and 79th Street, where they resided for over 45 years. Nan was a known force at the Paris couture shows and Yves Saint Laurent became one of her closest friends. “I spend more 128 QUEST

money than I should and less than I’d like to, much less,” she told WWD in 1972. “I couldn’t keep my husband if I spent more.” Nan’s jewelry collection was as famous as her clothing, with names including JAR, Verdura, David Webb, and, of course, her good friend, the late Kenneth Jay Lane. “If Nan liked something, she would get one in every color,” recalled Mr. Lane. “She had my bamboo hoops in every color.” The much missed Wendy Lehman remembered how Nan would fasten her lovely JAR dragonfly pins and David Webb brooches to her headboard at night. Antoinette Guerrini-Maraldi recalls Nan’s having the quickness of mind to hide one bag of jewels beneath her seat when robbers pretending to be florists delivering flowers robbed her at her flat. On another occasion, when intruders broke into the Kempners’ apartment and tied up Nan, she reportedly had the quick wit to hide a JAR diamond earring in her mouth. The Kempners were robbed twice in the seventies but it never hindered Nan’s spirits. Nan loved to dress up and did so until the day she died. In a 1994 interview, Nan recollected, “Our car would drop the kids off at school, then Tommy would pick me up, and he’d say, ‘Now, who are we today?,’ and I’d be Pocahontas, Nanook of the North; I’d be—God knows—the River Boat Queen. It was such fun. Indeed!”—Elizabeth Meigher

P H OTO BY RO B I N P L AT Z E R / T I M E L I F E PI C T U R E S / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; ROX A N N E LO W I T; PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

NAN’S BAUBLES