Cellar Door Issue 37 - Spain

the

Cellar Door Shop Local, Globally with Jones & Company Wine Merchants

Issue 37 October 2020 – January 2021

Spain

From South Africa with Love

DAW N PATR OL

SPIE R

GENE VI E VE

Syrah $19.99

Chenin Blanc Chardonnay $12.99

Brut MCC Blanc De Blancs $36.99

TH E SE A RCH

Sauvignon Blanc $19.99

S PI ER

Pinotage Shiraz $12.99

FL I G H T OF T H E J ACK A S S F LOTS A M & JETS A M

Chenin Blanc $26.99

Cinsault $25.99

Profoundly changing the Manitoba landscape from a pin-hole view of South African wine to a dazzling panorama.

Featured wines available at Jones & Company Wine Merchants.

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contents Features 16 Shop Local, Globally With Jones & Company Wine Merchants

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Mike Muirhead guides us through what the transition to Jones & Company Wine Merchants reveals about the nature of supporting local partners around the world.

32 Small Plates, Big Palates Tapas may be small plates, but our wine experts ensure that our Spanish-themed food and wine pairings are not short on flavour.

43 Spain, In Food and Wine: A Curated Tasting Menu A Jones & Company special feature: host your own Spanish wine tasting party with our Spanish Wine Tasting Kit.

46 Been Longing, Being There, Being Barcelona 46

Sylvia Jansen brings the sights, sounds, and flavours of Barcelona to our travel-hungry readers.

50 Honesty in the Face of Uncertainty Jill Kwiatkoski checks in with Spanish winemaker Esther Pinuaga about planning new projects while negotiating a changing wine industry.

Cover: Bodegas Pinuaga in Toledo, Spain (photo by Pilar SaĂąudo)

JonesWines.com 7

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contents Columns 12 A Message from Tina Jones 14 Ask a Sommelier 22 Behind the Label Emilio Hidalgo

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24 Gluggy The 12 Days of Wine-mas

26 Gary’s Corner España Verde, Green Spain

28 Profile Jonesy’s Restaurant and Lounge

40 Trending A New Rioja

43 Jones & Company Christmas Baskets 54 Sidebar 54

What’s Fair to You?

55 Wine & Drinks College Manitoba Congratulations to our WDCM Grads!

56 Culinary Partners 57 Shopping List 58 Top Picks

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Cellar Door Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead Graphic Design Ryan Germain ryan.germain@gmail.com Advertising Sales Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com

Contributors Todd Antonation, Nigel Dawes, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Tina Jones, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, David Lipnowski, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Tom Penner, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Anton Sikorsky, Rob Stansel, Dylan Watkins Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com

Visit us in-store to try any of our oils and vinegars! Our staff is happy to pour you samples, answer questions and give recommendations.

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See you soon!

In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. In 2020, we changed our name to Jones & Company to reflect our team and focus on shopping local, globally.

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a message from tina jones The past months have been a watershed. Businesses have had to twist and pivot as the economy has dived and swung. People have stepped up in amazing ways to help each other and to help their businesses and employers. We have begun to realize that we can pull together to make positive things happen in such a strange time. In our own shop, I saw the resourcefulness, dedication, and loyalty of our wine team. It was in these months, through all that was on my mind, I realized it was time to re-focus on who we are and what we represent. For more than 20 years, I have been the sole owner of Banville & Jones, and it occurred to me that for more than 20 years, we have actually been Jones and company—a company of amazing talents in a great team. In tribute to our amazing team, I made the decision to migrate this company into our business name—Jones & Company. We are now Jones & Company Wine Merchants. We will continue to be about the love of great wine. We will continue our passion for learning and teaching. And we will continue to be about building relationships with the people we deal with around the world and the people who are right next door. This issue takes those values into words and pictures. Mike Muirhead has been in touch with some of our producer friends who have been with us for a long time and introduces us to their lives. Sylvia Jansen explores what trading fairly with families in Europe means for us. She also takes us on a nostalgic tour of one of my favourite cities— Barcelona—and Gary Hewitt takes us to the interesting corner of Green Spain. Ricki-Lee Podolecki shares some interesting developments in Rioja, and Rob Stansel talks Sherry. And Jill Kwiatkoski and Sylvia have collaborated to bring you an amazing curated Spanish tasting menu. All in all, we have a lot of excitement to share with you! We look forward to talking with you about change. And our future. And shopping local, globally.

Tina Jones

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ask a sommelier What would make a wine fall in the $500 range? How do they justify the price? —Andrew Hargrave The cost of wine boils down to two main influences: tangible and intangible. Tangible costs relate to production, including grape growing, vineyard work, and strict selection at harvest (it costs more to harvest only the choicest fruit because you leave a lot behind for the birds). In the winery, costs relate to barrel ageing (one new oak barrel can be $2,000) and the care (including labour) of seeing the wine through fermentation, ageing, bottling, and finishing. Then there are intangibles. As in any other commodity, these can include reputation, scarcity, perceived scarcity, and wine reviewer scores. And cost is not the same as value: for some wine lovers, the value is greater if the wine is rare, or famous, or both. I have been lucky to taste some mighty fine wines, and for me, there are a lot of $100 wines out there that are easily 10 times as good as the $10 version from the same variety. From $100 to $200 to $500, more intangibles are in play. For some of us, those intangibles make it darn delicious; for others, not so much! —Sylvia Jansen When and why should I decant a wine? —Mel Johnson To decant or not to decant, that is the question. Not all wines require decanting. There are two main reasons to decant a wine. The first reason is to separate the clear wine from sediment that has formed in the bottle over time. As wine ages, sediment develops from tannins and other solid matter that

14 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

gradually falls to the bottom or side of the bottle. The presence of this sediment lends to the complexity of a wine, but you don’t want to find it at the bottom of your glass when you take that last sip. When decanting for sediment, there are a couple of ways to do it. The simple way is to pour the wine through a filtering screen into the decanter. If you don’t have a filtering screen, hold a light under the neck of the bottle and pour slowly into the decanter, stopping when you see the sediment inching up to the neck of the bottle.

The second reason to decant is to “open up” the wine. Many young wines can be closed or tight on the nose and palate. By slowly pouring the wine from the bottle to the decanter, it takes in oxygen that helps to open up the aromas and flavours. A fun experiment that helps to show the benefits of decanting is to pour a little wine into a glass from the bottle and decant the rest. Sip the wine that you poured into the glass and assess what you smell and taste. That’s your baseline. Then go to the decanter every half hour or so and pour a little more. As you do this, it will be evident how a little air can change a wine. —Saralyn Mehta

What are your go-to wines for a traditional turkey dinner that would go with all of the sides as well? —Lorise Clark Brut Champagne to start; mature offdry to medium sweet German Riesling Auslese or Spätlese and a fruity Pinot Noir (often New World) with the main course; and, if there’s room, a half bottle of Sauternes with dessert. The intensity and complexity of the first three wines pair remarkably well with the light and dark turkey meat, meld into the savoury stuffing and withstand the pairing challenge of Brussels sprouts. The sweetness of the Champagne and the Riesling parries the sweetness of carrots, parsnips, yams, and even cranberry sauce so that the wines do not taste lean and dry; whereas, the Pinot Noir accepts this challenge with its ripeness of fruit. And, finally, their high acidity cuts into the poultry’s grease while refreshing the palate. Any potatoes are happy just to be along for the ride. Intensity, complexity, acidity, and a little sweetness carry the day. Other wines that meet these criteria will also succeed. I usually raid my cellar for the still wines and pick up a fresh bottle of bubbles. Quality is important, but you don’t have to break the bank. In case you are cellar-less, here is a selection of current releases: PloyezJacquemart nv Brut Champagne ($66.99); Schneider Felsenberg Riesling Spätlese Rheinhessen ($42.99); Red Electric Interurban Pinot Noir (Oregon, $49.99); and Clos Haut-Peyraguey Sauternes ($51.99/375 mL). —Gary Hewitt

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SHOP LOCAL, GLOBALLY WITH JONES & COMPANY WINE MERCHANTS By Mike Muirhead, ISG, CMS, Sommelier It is a new story, which is an old story. It is a realization that happened out of a pandemic, but that feels like something we have been doing for so long, it is second nature. Like all businesses, Banville & Jones has taken stock of what we do and how we do it and looked to what the future will bring. This has brought about change and has tightened our focus in the areas where we are already successful.

16 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

As of October 1, Banville & Jones Wine Co. will now be called Jones & Company Wine Merchants. The name reflects our President Tina Jones’s vision while appreciating all the people who work hard every day to make it a success. With this change, we also looked at our Mission Statement. Jones & Company Wine Merchants’ mission

is to connect wine lovers with real people who make great wine. We looked at how we find wine and who we buy from, and we realized that we have been working on our model for over two decades now—one we have defined as “buy local, globally.” But what does that mean? We buy based on taste, not on price (though the value always needs to be there). We build brands because we believe in the wines and the people behind them. And most importantly, we believe that the best winemakers are true and honest with themselves, to their wines, and to the land. Happily, these friends often have great stories which we are excited to share with you. We buy wine from many sources: through travel to wine regions and wine shows, and from agencies who bring

us wines they think we will love. Every year, we taste thousands of wines and bring in about 100 new ones. The percentage of wines that make the cut is low because they all compete to have a place in our store among our other friends. We are proud of our diligence and believe every wine is in the store for a reason. To understand our vision of “buying local, globally,” you have to have a sense of who we work with. These are not just bottles on the shelves—they represent people, passion, reason, and taste that align with Jones & Company values. I reached out to some of our partners—old and new—to show you why we feel so connected to these winemakers around the world. And to show why it is important to us at Jones & Company to shop local, globally.

Azienda Agricola Reassi Region: Colli Euganei, Veneto, Italy Owners: Bonato family Winemaker: Diego Bonato Production per year: 25,000 bottles Export: 6 countries, though most is sold in Italy Diego Bonato represents the third generation of winemakers working their 6-hectare vineyard.

Photo courtesy of Azienda Agricola Reassi

When did you first start working with Jones & Company Wine Merchants? I was the General Manager and Winemaker at Tina’s family winery, Tolaini Estates, from 2004 to 2014. Many staff have had a glass of red wine with me on Al Passo. In 2008, Jones & Co. started buying wine from my family winery, then called Callegaro Francesca. What is your current business focus? This situation is changing our business perspective a little. We used to work mainly with the hospitality channel, but we need to grow a new part of the business that goes directly to the client. Home deliveries have grown, and it is important to find partners that offer that service. It is something that we did not consider before, but we surely have to consider it now.

JonesWines.com 17

Photo courtesy of Pago Calzadilla

Pago Calzadilla Region: Pago Calzadilla, Cuenca, Spain Owners: Uribes Madero family Winemaker: Paula Uribes Production per year: 80,000 bottles Founded in 1980 by her parents, Paco Uribes and Celia Madero, Paula represents the second generation to make wine on this 26-hectare plot of land. How do you farm? From the beginning, we have farmed with an organic philosophy, making our own compost and avoiding using chemical products by protecting plants with cinnamon and copper. We have obtained vegan certification for all our wines this year, and we will obtain organic wine certification at the end of 2020.

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When did you start working with Jones & Company Wine Merchants? We first met at ProWein [Wine Show] in Germany in 2014. What is your current business focus? Our business was always divided 50/50 between national and international markets due to the good ratings and press reviews during the last years. Our distributors and private customers are the most important thing to us, and we have confirmed that during COVID. So we will continue focusing on restaurants and private customers here in Spain and in the rest of the countries we export to. What do you think the future holds for Calzadilla? In my opinion, the way of buying wines has changed during the last years, and lockdown has confirmed that with the increase in online sales. New generations prefer to buy online, so we will try to adapt our offerings and be more present and proactive on Facebook, Instagram, and the websites of our partners. Also, we will continue looking for new partners in new markets.

Photo courtesy of Pikes

Pikes Region: Clare Valley, South Australia Owners: Pike Family Winemaker: Steve Baraglia Production per year: 700,000 bottles Export: 20 countries The Pike family has farmed their land for 36 years, over three generations, and currently works 100 hectares of vineyards. How do you farm? We focus on minimal use of chemicals and sustainable practices. Our crop management relies on elemental forms of fungicide. When did you start working with Jones & Company Wine Merchants? We have had a relationship with the store on and off since the early 2000s. Most recently, we were able to connect with Jill from the store at the London wine fair in 2019.

What is your current business focus? For us, domestic markets account for 85% of our sales. Direct-to-consumer sales are having large growth here in Oz, as consumers are seeking authentic connections with their wine producers. Our strong relationships with independent retailers and restaurants continue to play a pivotal role. We have had such great support from so many businesses that are struggling right now. We have been doing lots of Zoom tastings with customers around the world to try and support them. What do you think the future holds for Pikes? There are exciting times ahead for us, as we have recently undergone some generational change and succession in the business. Our new tasting room and award-winning restaurant (Slate) have provided us with an increased focus on customer experience and direct sales. We think there is room for some moderate growth in the domestic market. The increasing effects of climate change are, without doubt, our largest challenge for the future, however, so the hunt for new drought-resistant varieties, vineyard management techniques, and cooler and wetter sites will need to form a major part of our focus over the coming years. ď‚—

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BEHIND THE LABEL

Emilio Hidalgo By Rob Stansel, Sommelier (CAPS) “There is Sherry, and there are all other wines,” declared English writer Rupert Croft-Cooke in his 1956 book, Sherry. A once-championed beverage in the post-war era by many a bourgeois, English palate—like our hyperbolic buddy Rupert’s—Sherry went into a tailspin through the 70s and 80s, only to reemerge in the late Aughts in the most unlikely of hands: those of millennial mixologists on the American coasts. Bombastic, cloying, jammy cocktails were out; bitter, complex, nutty, and saline ones were in. Sherry was hip again. Sherry has been mostly on the upswing through the last decade, with more than just the bartending world taking notice. The industry’s governing body, the Consejo Regulador, pointed to another positive trend for its biologically aged liquids, in a new, growing segment of the market that no one saw coming: wine drinkers. That’s right, wine drinkers have “discovered” Sherry, “as a very peculiar but very interesting wine,” according to Cesar Saldana, in a 2016 interview with Drinks International. What this means is that, although volume sales are down, value sales are up. Producers of this fortified wine are embracing this new identity as premium and niche. Enter traditional bodegas such as Emilio Hidalgo, with its large, nearly-forgotten, humid cellar full of old, blended wines at rest, with stocks dating back to the company’s founding in 1874. Talia Baiocchi, in her Sherry (2014), describes Hidalgo’s house style as “elegance over girth… favoring leanness and finesse over power.”

Wines from Emilio Hidalgo available at Jones & Company Wine Merchants: Fino ($17.99); Morenita Cream ($18.99); Pedro Ximénez ($26.99/500mL); Gobernador Oloroso ($35.99); Villapanes Oloroso Seco ($69.99)

The imprints to be sought are those of the flor—the yeast “flower” that blooms atop their Fino wines in their old, large barrels (mostly 600-litre) called butts under which the wines age, anaerobically—and time, which can be discerned in the tawny-brown shades and nutty, candied citrus-peel-like aromas of the Olorosos, such as their stunningly complex Villapanes Oloroso Seco. Hidalgo’s Sherries showcase the effects that both oxygen and the lack thereof have upon wine. They are truly a product of the bodega’s ecology—with its sea-kissed humidity and rows upon rows of solera-stacked casks—and the skills and intuitions of the capataz—the cellarmaster— and tonelero—the cooper who makes the barrels. Our own Gary Hewitt was there nearly a decade ago and marvelled at the “arcane paraphernalia” conveniently lying about the damp, earthen floors, “for the endless task of transferring wine from cask to cask,” year over year.

The bodega is located in the heart of the city of Jerez, Sherry production’s capital, in the far south of Andalucia, Spain, a not-so-touristy city known for its Moorish architecture, dancing horses, flamenco, and packed tabancos—Sherry bars. The fifth generation of Hidalgos now oversees the business, while wine production is guided by Manuel Jesus Nieves, whose father entered into partnership with the Hidalgos in 1959.

We first sourced the wines of Emilio Hidalgo in late 2011 for longtime local restaurant partner Segovia, whose contemporary, thoughtful take on Spanish tapas cuisine left a mark on our city that won’t soon be forgotten. If you were lucky enough to sample their Sherry Tasting Menu, then you were lucky enough to taste four of Hidalgo’s wines in a stunning room, accompanied by the most thoughtful of small bites. Progressing from their delicate, fresh Fino with a skewer of olive and anchovy, through to a pistachiostudded mascarpone-stuffed date paired with the naturally sweet, unctuous, liquid-date-in-a-glass Pedro Ximénez was a palate-jolting experience of savoury, umami joy.

The Palomino Fino grape is the workhorse of the vineyards outside of the city, harvested early in the season, at lower potential alcohols, so as to produce relatively neutral base wines. The fruit itself is not the star of Hidalgo’s wines.

Thankfully, if you missed out, these wines are still on our shelves, waiting to be discovered by the wine drinkers, and the Sherry drinkers, and those that enjoy sherry wines, too. 

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GLUGGY

The 12 Days of Wine-mas By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS)

In case we needed another reason to imbibe this season (as of writing this, aliens had not yet landed, but they are scheduled for late September 2020), here is our annual 12 Days of Wine-mas list: an opportunity to look at some great-value gems that you might have missed in the store. Some are new, some have a long, healthy track record, and some you will find in our Top 100 Wines section in the store—but all of them will please and delight your guests around holiday time.

Vinçonniere 2017 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Loire Valley, France ($14.99) 1

This was such a great summer wine, but I am making sure people know it is an “allyear wine.” This fresh white with a touch of frizzante is the perfect way to start a meal or party. Low alcohol and zippy acidity mean that it pairs with almost any appetizer. There is always time for Muscadet.

Viña Zorzal 2018 Garnacha Blanca Navarra, Spain ($16.99) 3

Every list I do will always include a Grenache Blanc. It may not be one of the “noble varieties,” but it has had my heart (and palate) for years. I love the texture and richness in a wine with no oak. Melon, cream soda, vanilla pod, and a medium body mouth feel. I love this wine with salmon.

Santa Ema 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Maipo, Chile ($15.99) 2

I am a firm believer that Chile should be in the same conversation as France and New Zealand for Sauvignon Blanc production. The cooler climates mean that the true characteristics (fresh green apple, grass, and gooseberry) can shine through. Time to break your NZ addiction and try something new!

Bon Courage 2019 Unwooded Chardonnay, Robertson, South Africa ($18.99) 4

If you haven’t tried this Chardonnay yet, you really need to. Everything in your head is likely telling you rich and creamy, but this is the polar opposite: fresh Macintosh apples, white flowers, and a mouthwatering finish. This is a crowd-pleaser!

= You will find these wines in our Top 100 Wines section at Jones & Company Wine Merchants.

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Les Domaines Auriol 2018 Catch & Release Sauvignon Blanc, France ($16.99) 5

A new one on our shelves this year from our friends at Auriol in the south of France. Fresh citrus, orange peel, and mineral on the palate. A great wine for ice fishing!

Tempus Two 2019 Silver Series Rosé, South Australia ($12.99) 7

Rose in the winter? Nope, rosé ALL YEAR LONG. Why? Because it is versatile in all seasons and with all types of food. This was our latest summer arrival to go along with their highly successful Pinot Grigio and Shiraz. Try it with barbeque shrimp (yes, you should bbq in the winter too!).

Domaine Astruc 2017 Merlot, South of France ($15.99) 9

My go-to for turkey and teaching, this Merlot checks all the boxes. Ripe plum and silky tannins, this French red is the perfect way to slip back into loving Merlot for the noble grape it is. Also, it can stand up to cranberry sauce!

Precision Wine Co. 2017 Windstorm Reserve Cabernet, California ($19.99) 11

One of the newest members to our California Cabernet stable, this robust Cabernet shows black cherry, blackcurrant, and silky tannins. It is a comfort wine perfect for family gatherings around the fireplace.

Ka Tahi 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand ($18.99) 6

Ka Tahi means “The One,” and this is our newest “one” in the Sauvignon Blanc section. Classic New Zealand characteristics of gooseberry, fresh-cut grass, and fresh lemons. Pan-seared pickerel + butter + lemon + a glass of Ka Tahi = perfect.

La Cave du Valençay 2017 Patagon Rouge Loire Valley, France ($18.99) 8

And now for something completely different. A blend of Gamay (light), Malbec (heavy), Pinot Noir (light), and Cabernet (heavy) from the Loire Valley in France. Medium-light and bristling with red berry fruits with a really long and persistent finish. Try a blend that you will likely never see anywhere else!

Santa Julia 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina ($15.99) 10

Malbec always gets first billing for Argentina, but I argue that their Cabernet style is just as good and rivals some American wines for twice the price. This offers raspberries, spice box, black cherries and a bold but supple mouthfeel.

Heron Ridge 2015 O-Nine Shiraz Stellenbosch, South Africa ($19.99) 12

We discovered this wine in 2012 and bought most of the production. In 2014, Heron Ridge stopped making the straight Shiraz and moved to The Flight blend. Every year, we asked if they were going to make the O-Nine varietal Shiraz again. We asked so often, they decided to make it just for us! 100% organic, unfiltered, beautifully complex Shiraz. A wine that tastes like $30...for $20. JonesWines.com 25

Photo by Ian McCausland

GARY’S CORNER

España Verde, Green Spain By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, SWS, Sommelier Cordilleras (mountains) define the landscape of Spain, the third most mountainous country in Europe. Mountain ranges form a nearly perfect square frame around the Meseta, a huge, high-altitude central plateau that experiences blazing sunshine, blue skies, and dramatic day-night temperature swings. Further south and east, Spain’s dry climate and sunny skies open onto sandy Mediterranean beaches. But there is another Spain. The Cordillera Cantábrica and its sub-ranges stretch from the Pyrenees of the Franco-Spanish border across the top of Spain and southward toward Portugal, creating a strip of land sandwiched between the cordillera and the Atlantic Ocean. The climate is maritime with seasonal rains and cool temperatures—more like Ireland, Great Britain, and western France—ideal for lush, vegetative growth. This is España Verde, Green Spain. Four autonomous regions (think provinces or states) comprise Green Spain: País Vasco, Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia. País Vasco and Galicia are home to fascinating wine regions, distinct from the rest of Spain. País Vasco is Basque Country, or in local lingo, Euskadi. The local language is Euskera, the oldest European language in use today. Euskera is chock-full of the consonants x and k and unusual combinations of consonants such as tx. Take, for example, the name of the most important wine appellation, Txakolina (or Txakoli, or Chacoli). There are, in fact, three Txakolina appellations based on the sub-regions of Getariako (coastal, closest to France), Bizkaiko (coastal) and Arabako (inland, close to Rioja). Each makes fresh, light white wines, often slightly fizzy that are best quaffed chilled, young, and with local seafood. The dominant white grape variety is Hondarrabi Zuri, where Hondarribi is a local town, and zuri is Euskera for “white.” Tourists to País Vasco flock to San Sebastián on the Bay of Biscay, barely 20 km from the French border, lured by international and Basque festivals and sensational gastronomy. Upscale diners target Michelin Star restaurants—San Sebastián boasts the second-highest number per capita in the world—while lively bars in the Old Quarter specialize in pintxos, tapas-like snacks often

26 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

skewered with a toothpick to a piece of bread. Txakolina wine is served by the “Basque high pour” where the bottle is dramatically raised and lowered, or, for more immediate gratification, patrons use a decanter-tea pot hybrid called a porron to pour wine directly into their mouths!

From País Vasco, try: Aizpurua 2018 Getariako Txakolina DO ($18.99) Bat Gara 2017 UNO Arabako Txakolina DO ($21.99)

Galicia, located north of Portugal at the western end of Green Spain, also has its own language, Gallego, and a strong nationalist identity. But unlike the Basques who trace their lineage back to prehistoric times, Galicia’s link to its Celtic past is less about understanding the ancient past and more about creating a new cultural identity. Modern Galician culture is a whirlwind of Celtic festivals exemplified by the Festa Castrexa, a celebration of the pagan water nymph Tanitaco. Sounds of the traditional gaeta, a form of bagpipe, enliven festivities. Galicia boasts a dramatic coast formed of cliffs and rias (glacier-formed river valleys) and an interior of hills and mountains. Steep, terraced vineyards overlook rivers while, on flatter ground, vines are parral-trained overhead on granite supports to enhance ventilation and minimize humidity, and historically, to grow a second crop under the grapevine canopy. The cool Galician climate produces fresh, aromatic white wines and fruity, floral reds. The Rías Baixas appellation produces 99% white wines from Albariño—youthful, fresh, and beguilingly aromatic wines, some able to age nicely gaining depth and complexity. Ribeira Sacra produces 95% red wines from Mencía. These wines, with strong floral and red fruit aromas, are continually improving as this challenging variety is more fully understood. Valdeorras claims the middle ground with almost equal production of outstanding Godello white wines and Mencía reds.

From Galicia, try: Granbazán 2019 Albariño Rías Baixas ($29.99) Telmo Rodriguez 2018 Gaba do Xil Godello Valdeorras ($23.99)

País Vasco and Galicia are linked by the Camino de Santiago, a network of Catholic pilgrimages running from southern France to the terminus of Santiago de Compostela, the capital city of Galicia. The routes date to the Middle Ages, but believers and hikers walk these famous paths today, and, as in the past, local wines sustain their way. 

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FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE WINNIPEG CY WG

PROFILE

Kevin Jones & Tony Brambilla

Jonesy’s Restaurant + Lounge Photos by Ian McCausland

Jonesy’s Restaurant + Lounge was born out of experience and opportunity. Co-owner Kevin Jones used to drive by Jonesy’s future location, in a strip mall on Bird’s Hill Road, on his way to go fishing in Lockport. When he noticed a “For Lease” sign on the door, he started driving around the neighbourhood and noticed that the thriving local community didn’t have any higher-end restaurants serving it. Kevin and his business partner Tony Brambilla opened the doors to Jonesy’s in May 2000, and they have grown to fill three units in their strip with a restaurant, a lounge with a pool table and VLTs, and a private dining room. Kevin and Tony started out early in the restaurant industry. At 14, Tony was working at CanadInns in the kitchen, while Kevin took a typical Prairie boy route through fast food in his teens to casual dining restaurants. Their paths converged at CanadInns in their 20s. What is atypical is that Jonesy’s, their first foray into restaurant ownership, has had a successful 20-year run—with no signs of abating, pandemic or no pandemic. What they have learned in their 20th year, with the outpouring of support from their East St Paul neighbours and destination diners from the city, is that their community has their backs. Jonesy’s is in it for the long haul. How would you describe your concept? Having a restaurant in a small town means you go against some of the advice you hear for restaurants in the city. You hear the old mantra, “Don’t try to be something for everyone,” but that doesn’t work here. You’ve got to have a little bit for everybody, so that’s why our menu is big. Every day, we do a lunch and a dinner special, and then the ones that are most popular, we incorporate into the next menu.

28 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

Above: Tony Brambilla and Kevin Jones; below: Jonesy’s Onion Blossom

How have you had to pivot during the pandemic? At first, we planned on closing until the shutdown lifted, but one of our suppliers told us that many restaurants had shifted to takeout and were doing well. So after only two days, we re-opened for curbside pickup. That was a technical challenge. When people come in to dine, you fill up, and then you flip tables— there is a rhythm to it. With takeout, we had to put in three extra phone lines and then it never stopped. So there was never a time where we could regroup. It was crazy. Now, with the distancing between tables, we can open up the doors to our private dining room if needed, move safely distanced tables in there, and we can maintain our normal seating capacity. What is your favourite thing to eat at Jonesy’s? Our steaks, and we have great fries. We have prided ourselves from the beginning with serving the bestquality Canadian beef we can get our hands on and serving it at a fair price. We are always learning, looking for better ways to prepare it. What is your favourite wine? Duckhorn Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon, which is perfect with steak. The Tempus Two Silver Series Shiraz is also a great wine for dinner or just kicking back with a glass. What is your favourite kitchen gadget? After breaking too many plastic versions, we have our stainless steel Onion Blossom cutter that gets a workout in the kitchen.

Whiskey River Salmon

What is your favourite food travel destination? Jamaica has simple, fresh food. You can roll up to a road-side restaurant where there is not a single customer and order escovitch. Then you watch them race out the back door, jump on a motorcycle, and go to the store because they don’t even have the ingredients. Sometimes it takes forever, but it’s always fresh and delicious. What is your secret ingredient? Our sauces—not a specific sauce but every sauce. We don’t want someone to taste a sauce and describe it as “ho-hum.” We like to serve a little too much sauce, a little too many fries. And we’re all about “a little too much.” 

Original Back Ribs JonesWines.com 29

(204) 487-8325

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This holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together!

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Small Plates, Big Palates With Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, and Ricki-Lee Podolecki Photos by Ian McCausland and David Lipnowski Spanish cuisine is all about freshness, abundance, and gathering together over a mosaic of small bits of pleasure. A classic tapas evening will fill your table with small bites of meats, cheeses, and seafood— and our Jones & Company Sommeliers will fill your glasses with the perfect Spanish wines! A traditional tapas meal is served on platters, but these dishes are easy to serve as individual plates as well. Our tapas meal was a collaboration—as it should be—between Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, and Ricki-Lee Podolecki, who brought not only their Spanish wine expertise to the table, but also their culinary chops! Seafood is abundant in Spain, and Jill and Ricki-Lee served up steamed mussels in Spanish 32 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

saffron cream and grilled octopus on traditional patatas bravas (if you have a vegetarian at the table, the patatas bravas are a smoky treat all on their own). Mike contributed deceptively simple grilled lamb and figs on rosemary skewers, evidence that you only need a few quality ingredients to make a perfect tapas dish. Finally, no tapas is complete without charcuterie. Meg and Courtney from The Cheesemongers Fromagerie hand-picked three Spanish cheeses to complement the Spanish meats on our board. Want to host your own Spanish Tasting and Tapas? Jones & Company Sommeliers have put together a Spanish Tasting Case ($99.99) to go with the Tasting and Tapas Guide on page 43.

MUSSELS IN A SAFFRON CREAM Serves 6 2 lbs ½ cup 1 tsp ¼ cup 2 tbsp 1 1 2 2 ½ tsp ½ tsp 2 cups ½ cup 2 tbsp 2 tbsp 1

fresh mussels dry white wine saffron* butter olive oil onion, diced shallot, diced cloves of garlic, minced lemons, zested and juiced salt pepper whipping cream cilantro, chopped (optional) capers, drained & smashed (optional) tomatoes, finely diced baguette, sliced and grilled for additional flavour

Rinse the mussels in a colander under cold water. Once clean, put the colander on a plate and keep them in the fridge until ready to toss in the sauce. Add saffron to the white wine and set aside. Let the saffron steep (like tea) for at least 10–15 minutes while you chop the onions, shallot, and garlic, and zest and juice the lemons. In a large Dutch oven or soup pot, melt the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add diced onions and sauté until translucent, approximately 6 minutes, stirring often (do not brown the onions). Add the shallots and sauté for about 3 minutes until soft. Add minced garlic and sauté until fragrant, 1 minute. Add the white wine and saffron mixture and stir until combined. Add the juice and zest of 2 lemons and stir until combined. Add salt and pepper.

PAIR WITH: Mas d’en Gil 2014 Coma Alta Garnacha Blanca Priorat, Spain ($47.99) Bertha Cava 2017 Lounge Cava Brut Penedes, Spain ($29.99) Zarate 2018 Albariño Rías Baixas, Spain ($26.99)

Slowly add the whipping cream to the mixture and continue to stir. Gradually bring the whipping cream mixture to a boil on medium heat. Continue stirring and reduce the heat to just under medium to take the boiling down to a simmer. Simmer the sauce while stirring until it is reduced by half and coats the back of a spoon (approximately 20 minutes). Once the sauce is thickened, add the cleaned mussels to the sauce and stir once or twice to coat the mussels. Cover the pot and let it steam over medium heat for 4 minutes. Do not overcook! Remove the lid and add the smashed capers. Stir to combine. Slowly pour the mussels into a large serving bowl and garnish with chopped cilantro and diced tomatoes (do not stir). Serve with grilled baguette and make sure to have an empty bowl on hand for the mussel shells. * The amount of saffron you use will depend on the quality of your saffron. If you are lucky enough to find Spanish saffron, one healthy pinch will do.

OCTOPUS OVER PATATAS BRAVAS Serves 6 2 tbsp 4 1 1 tbsp 1 tsp 2

olive oil garlic cloves, minced yellow onion, fine chopped paprika sea salt White wine* medium-sized octopus tentacles**

Note: The octopus should be cooked the night before you serve it, so it has a chance to marinate in its simmering liquid overnight.

THE NIGHT BEFORE: In a medium pot, heat olive oil, then sauté onion, paprika, and salt over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add enough wine to cover the tentacles and bring it up to a simmer. Place tentacles (or octopi) into the pot with liquid (if not completely covered by the wine, add a little more). Simmer at medium-low for 30 minutes. Flip the tentacles and simmer for another 20–30 minutes, until tender. The tentacles are done if you can easily push a fork or knife into the thickest part of the flesh. Once cooked, place the octopus in a metal bowl and pour the simmering liquid over it. Allow to cool, cover, and place in the fridge to marinate overnight. THE DAY OF: Remove the octopus, and reserve the liquid. Remove the purple skin and dry the octopus. Brush with olive oil and salt. Heat a grill pan or BBQ grill to high heat. Grill the octopus until charred with grill marks (3–4 minutes each side). Use the marinade liquid to baste the octopus to intensify the flavour. *For white wine, a cheap and cheerful Sauvignon Blanc works well. **We found these hearty and inexpensive tentacles at the Cork & Olive Portuguese grocery store. You can also use small octopi for this recipe if that’s what is at the market, but adjust the cooking time accordingly.

PAIR WITH: Pinuaga 2019 Rosé Castilla-La Mancha, Spain ($15.99) Akilia 2016 Villa de San Lorenzo Mencia Bierzo, Spain ($19.99) Bat Gara 2017 UNO Txakolina, Spain ($21.99)

34 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

Patatas Bravas Potatoes

3 tbsp 3

olive oil large baking potatoes, like russet Seasoning salt

Bravas Sauce 2 tbsp olive oil 1 yellow onion, finely diced 3–4 garlic cloves, minced ¼ tsp sea salt 3 tsp sweet or smoked paprika 3 tsp garlic powder 16 oz can crushed or diced tomatoes Tabasco sauce to taste Brown sugar, as needed Cut potatoes into 1-inch cubes (you can peel them or leave the skin on). Rinse and dry the potatoes, toss in olive oil, and roast in a 425°F oven until crispy (approximately 35

minutes). (Option: If you have an air fryer, you can get a great crispy potato using that!). Once cooked, toss the potatoes in seasoning salt. Heat olive oil in a saucepan on medium heat. Add onion, fresh garlic, and salt. Cook 5–6 minutes until onion is translucent. Stir in paprika, garlic powder and the can of tomatoes, and bring to a simmer for 10 minutes. Add tobasco to taste (we used six good shakes). Blend the sauce with a hand blender or regular blender. Taste your sauce: if it is overly acidic, add in small amounts of brown sugar to balance. Toss the crispy potatoes in the sauce and top with octopus. Serve immediately.

Modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean cuisine combined with warm hospitality make dining at Beaujena’s special, regardless of the occasion.

From when we walked in the door to when we walked out, your place was the definition of class and quality. From the hospitality to the food, we were thoroughly impressed.

Open exclusively on Friday and Saturday evenings By reservation only In the heart of St. Boniface at 302 Hamel Ave.

—Joel, Winnipeg

www.beaujenas.com | 204.233.4841 | beaujena@shaw.ca

ROSEMARY LAMB SKEWERS WITH GRILLED FIGS Serves 6 1kg 15 1 1 tbsp 2

lamb shoulder, cubed whole sprigs fresh rosemary Fresh green or purple figs – 2 per person lemon juiced olive oil cloves garlic, minced freshly ground pepper to taste

THE DAY BEFORE: Liberally salt the lamb, cover, and refrigerate overnight. THE DAY OF: One hour before cooking, take the lamb out of the fridge, trim excess fat, and cut into rough cubes. Preheat the BBQ to medium-high. Combine lemon juice, olive oil, and garlic in a small dish for basting the lamb. Skewer the lamb cubes and figs on separate rosemary sprigs. (The lamb will take a bit longer than the figs, so do not put them on the same skewer.) Grill the lamb on medium-high heat for 8–10 minutes, basting with the lemon mixture and turning twice. Cook to an interior temperature of 140°F. Remove from heat, pepper to taste, and let the meat rest for 5 minutes, tented in aluminum foil, while you grill the figs. Place figs on the grill and cook for 5–8 minutes, turning every two minutes until they show grill marks. Remove figs and serve immediately with lamb.

PAIR WITH: Clos Berenguer 2017 Min Priorat, Spain ($24.99) Viña Zorzal 2016 Cuatro del Cuatro Graciano Navarra, Spain ($33.99) Bodegas Fernandez Rivera 2013 Dehesa La Granja Castilla Y Leon, Spain ($27.99)

CHARCUTERIE BOARD Serves 6 Shop local: DeLuca’s provided a great selection of olives, chorizo, serrano ham, grapes, and figs (when in season).

The Cheesemongers Fromagerie chose our Spanish cheeses for this board: Oveja Con Trufa (truffle sheep’s milk cheese), Queso de Oveja al Romero (rosemary crusted sheep’s milk cheese), and El Tofio Fumé (smoked cheese from the Canary Islands). We also sourced the Marcona almonds and Ibérico ham at their shop.

Available exclusively at

Civettina (chi-veh-TINA) is made from grapes hand selected by Tina Jones. Just ask us for the wine Tina made!

TRENDING

A New Rioja By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET

Joven

No Oak required, Made to Drink Young

Crianza

One Year in Barrel, Two Years Total

Reserva

One Year in Barrel, Three Years Total

Gran Reserva

Two Years in Barrel, Five Years Total

The former Rioja classification system for red wines was based solely on strict ageing categories.

One of the key things we learn when we study wine is that single vineyards offer something unique: each expresses how that site is special and rare enough that it can produce a quality wine. So it seems backward that Rioja’s strict rules have traditionally meant that that producers could get in trouble simply by putting their vineyard’s name on the label. That is, until now. Get ready: the rules have changed, and a new Rioja is about to emerge. In 2018, the Spanish Consejo Regulador took the huge step of opening its classification system to single vineyards. Until then, Rioja’s wine quality had been based solely on a barrel and ageing system that allowed minimal information on the areas of production. This new Viñedo Singular system will lead to major changes within the region for red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines. Let me explain using red wines as an example. In the old system, Rioja wineries could label their wine region by Rioja or one of its three official zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental (Baja originally)—but nothing more regionally specific. In conjunction with the zone, the levels of oak and bottle ageing were used on labels as a marker of quality and categorized as: Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. Sparkling wines were given the topquality designation Gran Añada. The new law allows the more specific Viñedo Singular of superior quality to be labelled as such, though quite a few 40 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

criteria must be met before a single vineyard is allowed into the “club.” Vines must be at least 35 years old, yields kept relatively low, and the wines need to pass a tasting panel. In addition, producers must prove they have owned the vineyard for 10 or more years! This change has been longawaited by many producers who value their vineyards and growers. Telmo Rodriguez is one of these producers. The Lanzaga label has always been geared toward single vineyards, and Telmo was so eager to showcase this vineyard, he once got in trouble for including a specific village name on the label. When he visited Winnipeg in 2019, the winemaker explained why he bucked the former labelling system by refusing to include ageing details on his labels: “Putting my wine in barrels doesn’t mean that the fruit is quality. Oak is made to enhance a wine and doesn’t mean a wine is better than one with less oak.” This is why you will never see Joven or Gran Reserva placed on the Telmo Rodriguez brand.

Telmo Rodriguez’s Bodega Lanzaga La Estrada ($128.99), from a small vineyard of only 0.64 hectares, will now be able to showcase the uniqueness of its vineyard right on the label.

Not everybody is as taken with the change. Finca Valpiedra raised some concerns about how loose some of the regulations are, believing that guidelines for which vineyards meet the quality standards should be stricter (regardless of whether they pass all the other rules).

Jones & Company carries two of Finca Valpiedra’s single-vineyard wines—the 2012 Reserva ($53.99) and Cantos ($26.99). These intense and well-structured ageworthy wines come from the 80 hectares of vineyard owned by the winery—but you won’t be seeing that listed on the label!

When asked if they would be taking advantage of the newly instituted Viñedo Singular, Finca Valpiedra’s Diego Martinez told us: “Finca Valpiedra is a member of Grandes Pagos de España [the Great Single Vineyards of Spain association], and we would definitely be entitled to be in the Viñedos

Singulares category. Our initial idea was to be, and the first ones to show, our single vineyards if possible! However, in our opinion, this new category has been too open with the idea that everyone can be part of it, and it is not interesting anymore. For us, it is all about where vineyards are and, if anyone can have a vineyard in that category [based on the requirements], we think that it loses the exclusivity and uniqueness of the idea.” Change is difficult, and it will take time to polish the process so that both sides of the issue come together. A region like Burgundy, for example, has had centuries to establish wellmade wines from specific sites. Diego Martinez makes a good point that Spain needs to be more selective about the vineyards they let in, or it risks watering down the legitimacy of all of the approved wines. However, the new regulations will give producers who purchase their grapes from growers a chance to share the limelight and finally showcase the unique single vineyards of Rioja. We will be taking a deeper dive into the implications of these new regulations on Rioja in the next Spanish Wine Scholar Course. 

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Spain, In Food and Wine: A curated tasting menu By Jill Kwiatkoski and Sylvia Jansen, Jones & Company Sommeliers With a food and wine culture thousands of years old, the Spaniards have a wealth of experience to offer us. Our tasting menu brightens any evening and does not rely on complex methods or precise service temperatures. In fact, according to two of our resident Sommeliers, if you abide by just three principles, you will have a terrific tasting: Simplicity: A few well-chosen ingredients, mostly served cool or at room temperature, will pair beautifully with your wines and will be satisfying to guests and hosts alike. Elegance: The beauty of a well-arranged service plate or board (or COVID-careful individual plates) with crusty bread and glasses placed at the ready will make a welcoming sight and a wonderful experience. Abundance: Having more than enough of both the food and the wine means that everyone feels invited to enjoy themselves. Take a taxi or ride-share, and for the hosts, feel satisfied that leftovers of both food and wine are a gift in themselves. Refrigerate leftover white, Sherry and Cava (and the reds as well if you like).

Join us on Thursday, November 5 at 7:30 pm for a tutored tasting by our Sommeliers via Zoom. Purchase the Spanish Tasting Case (wines featured on insert) for $99.99 and receive an Access Code for our exclusive tasting. The interactive tasting will let you taste with the experts. Purchase in-store or online at JonesWines.com/Shop (search for SPANISH TASTING CASE).

* Note that the Spanish Tasting case wine selections will be available while supplies last.

43 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

Four easy steps to tapas and a tasting: 1. KEEP IT SMALL: Buy the tasting pack. We recommend a group of 4–8 people, or share the experience and have your friends join us online too! 2. SET UP: Few people have a set of 36 wine glasses to use for a tasting. You can supplement by having everyone bring their own glasses, buying some inexpensive glassware for the event, or renting from a local party supply store, where a dozen glasses usually runs between $5 and $8, depending on the quality of stemware you prefer. The best part: pack them up dirty and they will wash them! 3. FOOD: Assign each of your guests to bring a tapas dish we have recommended on the tasting sheet. 4. TASTING: The fun part! Our Sommeliers will lead you through the tasting on Thursday, November 5 at 7:30 pm. Questions about other vegetarian and vegan tapas options for this tasting? Text A Sommelier at 204.400.0499.

Want to arrange your own private tasting? We can schedule a virtual tasting evening for your group with one of our Sommeliers! Email wine@JonesWines.com to enquire.

3

3. Pinuaga 2018 Tinto Garnacha/ Tempranillo (Castilla-La Mancha) with pan con tomate

2

The ubiquitous pan con tomate is as simple as rustic, crusty bread drizzled with olive oil, rubbed with garlic and tomatoes, and sprinkled with sea salt. The dish is beautiful with the fresh, unoaked Pinuaga Tinto, served slightly chilled.

1 2. Jaume Serra nv Cristalino Cava (Catalunya) with tortilla de patatas While this dish sounds like a tortilla, it’s actually a type of Spanish potato omelette. The richness of the oil-cooked potato and egg is nicely balanced by the refreshing acidity and bubbles of the sparkling wine. (No time to make tortilla? Open a bag of your favourite salty potato chips!)

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1 1. Zarate 2018 Albariño (Rías Baixas) with mussels

The intensity, stony notes, and aromatic fruits of Zarate’s dry Albariño are a great match to the briny beauty of mussels. This pairing will wake up your palates and the conversation. Try Jill’s recipe for Saffron Cream Mussels on page 31.

4

4. Telmo Rodriguez’s Bodega Lanzaga 2017 LZ (Rioja) with charcuterie jamón Classic jamón are dry-cured jamón ibérico (lots of marbling) or jamón serrano. Select a good quality, dry-cured ham and it will pair well with the smooth structure and flavours of the GrenacheTempranillo blend LZ.

5 4 2 5 3

5. Clos de Tafall 2016 (Priorat) with charcuterie Spanish chorizo An aged dry chorizo and rich sausages call for a wine with bold flavours and bracing structure, a bill that Clos de Tafall Priorat fits beautifully.

6 6. Barbadillo nv Solear Manzanilla Sherry (San Lúcar de Barrameda) with dates and aged Manchego This is no typical “dessert” pairing, but rather a play on the sweetness of the dates, the salty piquant character of Manchego, and the refreshingly briney, blanched-almond quality of the dry Manzanilla Sherry. It’s an acquired taste, but worth chasing!

Cristalino is now

Castelfino! Brand New Look, Same Great Taste.

Jaume Serra

CASTELFINO Cava Brut

Please enjoy responsibly

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Jones & Company Gift Baskets

Stay in your bubble —we’ll come to you!

Delivered directly to you—or to your friends, family, and clients! Order holiday prepared gifts today or contact us for a custom-made gift! Full descriptions of the baskets will be available at JonesWines.com after November 12.

Solo Red ($25) Solo White ($25) Holiday Mixed Duo ($50)

Ho Ho Yum! ($75) Home for the Holidays ($130) Local Eats & Wine treats ($175)

Online: JonesWines.com: click on SHOP WE DELIVER! 1 to 100 baskets! • Corporate orders delivered to your clients Email: baskets@joneswines.com • $12 for business and $17 for residential (plus taxes) • Regular wine orders over $200 FREE (within city limits) Phone: 204.948.9463

• Selected wines are also available for delivery through Skip the Dishes

REGULAR HOURS: Monday to Friday: 10 am to 8 pm Saturday: 10 am to 6 pm Sundays and holidays: 11 am to 6 pm Hours could be subject to change based on COVID-19 restrictions. Please refer to our social media for updates.

HOLIDAY HOURS: December 14–18: 10 am to 9 pm Sunday, December 20: 11 am to 6 pm December 21–23: 10 am to 9 pm December 24: 10 am to 4 pm Boxing Day: 12 pm to 5 pm New Year’s Eve: 10 am to 5 pm Christmas Day and New Year’s Day: CLOSED

BEEN LONGING, BEING THERE, BEING BARCELONA By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

Architect Antoni Gaudi’s ideas flow through Barcelona: Casa Batlló (above, photo by Carol Fletcher) and Park Güell (left, photo by nito/Adobe).

“Mucho calor,” remarked our taxi driver as we headed into the city from the airport. He did not need to tell us it was hot: even at 10:30 a.m. it was already 30°C. We found a small bar on a street corner that offered café solo (espresso) and tortilla de patatas, the ubiquitous potatoegg dish. We ate at a small table by the open window and spent the day searching for any corner of shade. But as the Canadian Prairies descend once again into the chill of fall and deep freeze of winter, I remember that Barcelona heat fondly. It paired nicely with the intense sun of the beach, refreshing glasses of Cava and rosado on shaded patios, nibbles of tiny treats on little plates, and a city as magical as it is varied.

In the heat of midday, the neighbourhoods grew quiet, as shops began to close for siesta (from about 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.). Bars and restaurants tend to break after lunch (about 4) until dinner service begins (about 9). Tapas bars took the time between. It did not take long to settle into the rhythm.

The Rhythm

The city is blessed by the close proximity of wonderful Spanish wines, and the offerings of its bars and restaurants are a testament to these riches. The vast majority (95%) of Spain’s Cava is centred in the town of Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, less than an hour’s drive from the city. Barcelona restaurants offer interesting, quirky Cava options as well as premium selections from larger houses. Northern Spanish regions of Somontano, Rioja, Navarra, and Priorat are well represented in wine lists. But it does not stop there: easy-drinking Sangria is everywhere, wine lists sport a range of styles of Sherry from Spain’s deep south, and retro vermouth bars (vermuterias) offer the trendiest drinks going.

Capital of the fiercely independent Catalunya region, Barcelona has a special style and universal appeal. More than 5 million people live in the urban area, but Barcelona has more the feel of an assembly of neighbourhoods rather than a sprawling city. Following our late morning snack, we found the sun again in the Eixample district, with sunlit terraces along spacious boulevards. Only a short time later, we were exploring the Raval and Barri Gotic neighbourhoods, walking in tiny alley-narrow streets that seemed to live perpetually in the shade.

Indeed, it was the food and wine that stayed with us for a long time after departing Barcelona. The city is packed with amazing eateries, from little corner places to lively tapas bars and cutting-edge restaurants. (I will admit that one evening we never saw dinner, but rather a rambling sequence of tapas bars, with a few little bites and chilled rosado or Cava by the glass at each place.)

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Font Mágica lights up the night above Barcelona

The Art To be clear, we did not limit ourselves to eating and sipping. The work of the city’s famed architect, Antoni Gaudí, was high on my list of interests. We awoke on one of our first days at a ridiculously early hour (considering the time we had dined the night before) to avoid the line for entry to the Sagrada Familia. This immense church, which Gaudí began in 1883 and has been almost continually under construction, is a Barcelona landmark, with spires decorated by freeform ornamentation soaring into the sky. The Modernisme architectural style echoes almost everywhere. Even those whose main destination is the beach still find themselves staring from streetside onto building façades that almost teem with movement in organic, sculpted forms.

Even those whose main destination is the beach still find themselves staring from streetside onto building façades that almost teem with movement in organic, sculpted forms.

Barcelona is also an art lover’s dream, with an astounding array of galleries and museums (we found our way to the Picasso museum). We also sampled a selection of art for sale in the shops of the Raval and Gràcia. My friend and colleague Jill Kwiatkoski, also a Barcelona lover, has her own favourites, and told me her best rainy-day afternoon was spent touring the Museo del Jamón—the ham museum. Clearly, in Barcelona, one needs to think not what is best to see and do, but what is best at the moment. Late in the evening, we turned from admiring buildings that seem alive to the street that is always alive: the famed Las Ramblas, where performers and flower vendors vie for the attention of those thousands of families and visitors walking its pavement. On another evening it was the Font Mágica, the light-show fountain at the base of the stairs to the National Museum of Catalan Art. A few days in this city was enough to make me wish for more. Barcelona has lived through political tensions, fights

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In 1882, construction began on Gaudi’s Basílica de la Sagrada Família and continues to this day

for independence, random terrorism, and COVID-19. But its vibrancy, people, history, boulevards, and beaches have a timeless attraction. And like many others, I am longing to be there again. In the middle of our cold winter, I warm the morning with espresso in made-in-Catalunya café solo cups and soften the evening with a Somontano red or fun Cava. Nice to be back in Barcelona. 

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HONESTY IN THE FACE OF UNCERTAINTY:

an interview with Esther Pinuaga Interview by Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)

Esther Pinuaga among the Pinuaga old bush vines in Corral de Almaguer (Photos by Pilar Sañudo)

In 1960, Valentín Pinuaga Salazar founded Bodegas Pinuaga near Toledo, Spain, just over one hour south of Madrid. The original winery was sold after Salazar’s death in 1972, but the vineyards remained in the family, producing grapes for other private wineries. In 2003, Salazar’s son, Valentín Pinuaga Portillo, and granddaughter, Esther, built a new winery and have developed Bodegas Pinuaga’s wines to express the diversity of the soils in their home province. With great respect for their land and vineyards, they carry on the family’s 60year tradition of practicing organic wine growing and wine production with minimal intervention, making wines that honestly represent their terroir. Jill Kwiatkoski and Esther Pinuaga first met in person in March 2020, when Esther hosted a winermaker’s dinner at Jones & Company. 50 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

Jill Kwiatkoski (JK) Of course, we have to touch on this because of the moment we are in—but we won’t dwell on it. How has COVID-19 affected your local business operations? Esther Pinuaga (ES) The big problem that we are really facing now is harvest, because our harvest is manual. We have to hire around 20 to 30 people for harvest and they work in the bush vines, which means they are always bending over. They carry a case that weighs around 16 kg, and they’re usually working two by two. We work at night, so they wear this little light on their head, and then add face masks and safety glasses—it’s going to be challenging. At the same time, we don’t know what the authorities are going to say in terms of people working together because you have to keep a distance,

but there’s no way you can keep a distance. We try to hire local workers who live in the village, and what we’re going to try to do is, whoever is from the same family, we’ll put them together because they’re already in the same house.

with smaller wineries like us—we are a small, 100% organic, family-run winery—have a bit more loyalty, and we are very grateful for that. Even though you are small, people like you have continued to buy—and for us, that’s really important.

JK How has it changed things for you in the wine market?

JK Since you’re an organic producer, you also have had to contend with how the changing climate has affected your harvest. Looking back at the last decade, what changes have you seen in your vineyards?

ES There’s two sides of this business: we’ve seen big wineries that were selling to supermarket chains, then there are other wineries that wouldn’t export at all, and they I have learned over the years that the were just selling to local restaurants in Spain because kind of importers and businesses like you they were doing good that like to work with smaller wineries business. I’m so happy that we are actually exporting, like us—we are a small, 100% organic, and we are grateful that we family-run winery—have a bit more have different customers elsewhere. It’s giving us an loyalty, and we are very grateful for that. opportunity to just survive. We are very grateful because all of the customer base outside of Spain that we work with has been extremely supportive. That has really made me think that, sometimes in life, business is not only there just to make money—these people have supported us. I have learned over the years that the kind of importers and businesses like you that like to work

EP Well, there are two things. One is longer drought periods, and two is a completely unstable climate. I think it’s very difficult to predict what’s going to happen because one vintage is extremely warm, then the next vintage is not as warm—there are a lot of peaks in the weather. We’re seeing a lot of strange, atmospheric events, where you get hail or frost in the middle of June. A couple of years ago, in 2017, there was a huge frost all over Europe. Because it is very difficult to anticipate, we cannot predict, “Harvest will be this time.” Everything is earlier, and I think

Pinuaga wines available exclusively at Jones & Company Wine Merchants: Coleccion ($21.99); Rosé Rosado ($15.99); Tinto Garnacha/ Tempranillo ($14.99) (pictured above); as well as Bianco Sauvignon Blanc ($14.99); 200 Cepas Tempranillo ($31.99). JonesWines.com 51

that’s because of the heat and the lack of water. So things are marching in advance. This year, for instance, we’ve had a lot of rain, but in the South of Spain, they started harvesting the grapes in July, almost three weeks in advance compared to last year. The trellis-conducted vineyards do not adapt as well as the bush vines. Our bush vines are fantastic survivors. They go get the water from underneath aquifers, and I think that they adapt much better to the local climate. JK What are some new projects you are looking forward to in 2021? EP I would like to come up with a new white wine. We are looking at this 70-year-old vineyard from a really nice producer here locally. It’s planted with Airén, a local Spanish grape variety. We want to make a smaller production of white over lees. We wanted to do that this year, but it’s too complicated because of the situation, so we have to postpone it to 2021. Two other new projects that I want to accomplish at some point is a vermouth and my own olive oil. JK One thing that our customers always comment on is your beautiful labels. What inspired them? EP We wanted to attract new wine drinkers and the younger generations so I thought that it was a good idea to have fun labels. These labels were designed by a friend of

mine, Miguel, who is an architect and lives in Germany. He asked me for empty cases of wine and painted a super nice collage on them. We did a tasting and he did an exhibition called Paintings Over Cases of Wine. I asked Miguel if we could use his paintings for the labels, and he said, “Yes for sure!” So we designed these three wines—the Tinto, the Bianco, and the Rosé (see page 43)—to represent red, white, and rosé at a nice entry level that are fruity and refreshing. JK Your labels can only tell so much of your story. What is the most important thing that you want wine lovers to know about Pinuaga wines? EP I think that, for me, the most important thing is that they learn to appreciate that, because we’re a small winery, the harvest and the vintage are present in the wine. So not every year is the same, and that’s something that I think we like people to expect—that there’s beauty in wine, that every vintage has its little things. Apart from that, we try to make wines as honest as possible. When I say an “honest wine,” to me, it really represents what we are. It represents the soil, the type of grape variety, and the organic winemaking because we really don’t use anything. We can call it natural if you want, but we really don’t use any artificial yeast or any other products. We apply just minor, minor things to fine-tune the wines. We try to make the best out of what we have. 

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SIDEBAR

Fair Game By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier Sylvia Jansen with Phillipe Zinck, Alsace, France

What’s fair to you? When I was giving a talk on the history of wine a few years ago, I mentioned that the average vineyard landholding in much of Europe is about the size of a major league baseball field (one hectare, 100 m x 100 m). That detail led the group down an interesting rabbit hole. Participants were astounded that thousands upon thousands of wine producers in the world work hard on small wine farms. And thousands upon thousands of these people also use the fruit from that small area to make wine and sell it. Their trade is growing grapes from their vineyards and making it into wine that bears their name, often simply a family name. How many thousands of producers takes some deductive work. Consider this: 50% of the world wine production comes from just three European countries: Spain, Italy, and France. Yes, you read that right: one out of every two bottles sold in the world comes from one of these places. Add to that detail the fact that, in Spain and Italy, the average vineyard holding is just over one hectare. Even in France,

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where the average holding is larger, the wine industry is represented by some 20,000 wine producers. Very few producers make a ton of money from production that small. Mostly they just get by. The people behind these wines are, by and large, farmers. Sometimes they work with their friends and neighbours to produce wine. Their labels are not often eye-catching, but the wine inside is often interesting, nuanced, and sometimes amazing. They sell it from their winery door, rent small booths at wine shows, travel (if they can afford it), and do their own social media (when they have time): the wine equivalent of farmers at our local garden markets. These farmers love making wine, not just growing grapes, but to make a good living, they need to have a wider market than their own front door. They need fair access to international markets and a short supply chain. They need fair, long-term trading partnerships. Importantly, they need consumers and wine lovers—us—to understand and care about who they are and what they produce.

This also adds up to a lot of different wine choices in the world market. The challenge is that we live in a world accidentally tipped against those who make only a few thousand bottles of wine. We often shop for wine the way we shop for jeans: by familiar label, by the known brand, by the safe choice. But if we do so, we accidentally discourage these small producers from going it on their own. Earlier this year, when the COVID lockdown began, I decided to stock up on wines from small winemakers, as a project in fair trading through pulling corks and pouring wine. A few of my friends did the same, and we coped with our isolation by video conference, enjoying the same wine on the same evening. For the producers of these wines, it was truly a meaningful gesture, worthy of personal responses to my posts, emails, and texts. I should not have been surprised. Wine is not just a commodity. It can be a connection among people. So here’s to you, in all fairness. 

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Congratulations to our WDCM Grads! We were grateful that the summer graduation day brought sunny skies and a good breeze: on July 28, 2020, we threw open the patio doors of the Tuscan Room of Jones & Company Wine Merchants and assembled the graduates, classmates, and a few supportive representatives to celebrate Manitoba’s newest Sommeliers. The challenging program, accredited by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS) and the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI), began in January 2018. The two-year program included comprehensive study in the world’s wines, spirits, and beverages; rigorous assignments and theory examinations; multiple blind tastings; dedicated industry hands-on service practicums; Sommelier management projects; and a rigorous final certification examination. COVID-19 added to the stress and complication, with the final certification exam held by video conferencing. Each candidate set their own private virtual restaurant space and subjected themselves to the intense scrutiny of the judging panel for the food pairing and wine service exams.

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It is only through a deep love of the subject, incredible dedication, and monumental perseverance that these people have gained certification as Professional Sommeliers. When you encounter them, we encourage you to seek their advice. You will discover that they also bring with them an infectious passion for wine and drinks!

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Back row, our new Sommeliers: Dylan Keats, Seema Pal, Kathryn Boultbee, Alexandra Allardyce, Joshua Schettler; Front row: instructors of the 2020 graduating class: Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Andrea Eby

The newly certified Professional Sommeliers are: Alexandra Allardyce (Manitoba Club, Sommelier and Elevage Selections, Sales Representative) Kathryn Boultbee (Manitoba Liquor and Lotteries, Product Ambassador) Dylan Keats (Academy Hospitality, GM of Gusto North and Rose Bar) Seema Pal (Independent Consultant) Joshua Schettler (Academy Hospitality; Sommelier, Pizzeria Gusto)

culinary partners 529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. 529 has become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. 529 Wellington Crescent 529wellington.ca

Regarded by many as one of the best restaurants in Winnipeg, Beaujena’s French Table provides a truly unique dining experience. Seven-course surprise dinners featuring Chef/Owner Randy Reynolds’ modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean Cuisine combined with his wife Beaujena’s warmth and hospitality make dining here special, regardless of the occasion. 302 Hamel Avenue beaujenas.com

Located in the Kildonan Park pavilion overlooking the duck pond, Prairie’s Edge offers a locally sourced, prairie-inspired menu, including favourites such as beet fritters, Arctic char, and brisket. The large dining room windows offer beautiful views of the park, or you can grab burgers, fries, or a fried chicken sandwich at their takeout window. Restaurant: Wednesday to Sunday, 10–8; Takeout Window: Wednesday to Sunday, 11:30–7:30. Pavilion in Kildonan Park prairiesedgewpg.ca

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Jones & Company Wine Merchants partners with Manitoba’s finest restaurants to develop the perfect wine list. For more information about partnering with us, contact Todd Antonation, todd@joneswines.com

From the land to the table: fresh, local, house-made. These are the words we live by. Peasant Cookery strives for flavours that can only come from the best ingredients, prepared with exacting standards. We take dishes from the past and make them taste like they are from our own backyard. A Wine Spectator Award of Excellence wine list, and the service to match. Join us at our table on the corner of King & Bannatyne.

Located in the town of Bird’s Hill, just 10 minutes outside of the city, Jonesy’s Restaurant + Lounge serves upscale homestyle cooking to locals and destination diners. The diverse menu caters to every palate: from Jonesy’s Onion Blossom to steak and ribs, to Manitoba pickerel and burgers. Join us for daily features, visit the lounge, or book the Private Dining Room for small gatherings.

100-283 Bannatyne Avenue peasantcookery.ca

3133 Bird’s Hill Rd, East St Paul Jonesysrestaurant.ca

Across the Board Aevi Spa Salon Boutique Aikens Lake Wilderness Lodge Amsterdam Tea Room Canadian Brewhouse Café 22 Café Dario Chino’s Bistro (Steinbach) Cibo Waterfront Café Cordova Tapas & Wine D-Jay’s Restaurant Deluca’s Cooking School and Restaurant De Luca’s Specialty Foods Diana’s Cucina and Lounge Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Enoteca ERA Bistro at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights Fifth Hair Lounge and Beauty Bar Forth Frankie’s Italian Kitchen & Bar Good Earth Coffee House

Gusto North Hotel Fort Garry Hy’s Steakhouse Inferno’s Bistro Joey Restaurants Joey’s Only Seafood Jonesy’s Restaurant Junction 59 Roadhouse King & Bannatyne La Roca Le Cercle Molière Local Public Eatery Máquè Manitoba Club Mere Hotel Mon Ami Louis Monticchio Ristorante Italiano Mottola Grocery Olive Garden Passero and Corto Pauline PF Chang’s Pizzeria Gusto Preservation Hall Eatery and Wine Bar Rae & Jerry’s Rae’s Bistro

Riverside Inn Rose Bar Royal Manitoba Theatre Centre Sabai Thai SMITH Restaurant South Beach Casino & Resort St. Charles Country Club Tapp’s Neighbourhood Pub The Alt Hotel The Common The Magic Room and Spa The Merchant Kitchen The Mitchell Block The Oxbow The Roost The Victoria Inn The Wood Tavern Thermëa Spa Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine Vera Cucina VG Restaurant at the Fairmont Wasabi Sabi

SHOPPING LIST

Akilia 2016 Villa de San Lorenzo Mencia Bierzo, Spain $19.99.................................................................................................. 34 Aizpurua 2018 Getariako Txakolina País Vasco, Spain $18.99................................................................................................... 26 Alpha Estates 2015 Axia Macedonia, Greece $23.99.................................................................................................................. 62 Barbadillo nv Solear Manzanilla Sherry Sanlúchar de Barrameda, Spain (375 ml) $9.99....................................................... Insert Bat Gara 2017 UNO Arabako Txakolina País Vasco, Spain $21.99..................................................................................... 26, 34 Bertha Cava 2017 Lounge Cava Brut Penedes, Spain $29.99...................................................................................................... 33 Bodega Lanzaga 2017 La Estrada Rioja, Spain $128.99............................................................................................................. 40 Bodega Lanzaga 2017 LZ Rioja, Spain $21.99...................................................................................................................... Insert Bodegas Fernandez Rivera 2013 Dehesa La Granja Castilla Y Leon, Spain $27.99.................................................................... 36 Bon Courage 2019 Unwooded Chardonnay Robertson, South Africa $18.99............................................................................. 24 Chateau Haut-Peyraguey 2017 Clos Haut-Peyraguey Sauternes, France (375 ml) $51.99........................................................... 14 Christmas Baskets ($25–$175).................................................................................................................................................... 43 Clos Berenguer 2017 Min Priorat, Spain $24.99......................................................................................................................... 36 Clos de Tafall 2016 Priorat, Spain $24.99.............................................................................................................................. Insert Domaine Astruc 2017 Merlot, South of France $15.99............................................................................................................... 25 Domaine Lafond 2018 Roc-Épine, Côtes du Rhône, France $22.99........................................................................................... 62 Duckhorn 2018 Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California $38.99.............................................................................. 29 Emilio Hidalgo Fino Sherry, Jerez, Spain $17.99......................................................................................................................... 22 Emilio Hidalgo Morenita Cream Sherry, Jerez, Spain $18.99..................................................................................................... 22 Emilio Hidalgo Pedro Ximénez Sherry, Jerez, Spain (500 ml) $26.99.......................................................................................... 22 Emilio Hidalgo Gobernador Oloroso Sherry, Jerez, Spain $35.99.............................................................................................. 22 Emilio Hidalgo Villapanes Oloroso Seco Sherry, Jerez, Spain $69.99.......................................................................................... 22 Finca Valpiedra 2012 Cantos Rioja, Spain $26.99...................................................................................................................... 41 Finca Valpiedra 2012 Reserva Rioja, Spain $53.99..................................................................................................................... 41 Granbazán 2019 Albariño Rías Baixas, Spain $29.99................................................................................................................. 26 Heron Ridge 2015 O-Nine Shiraz Stellenbosch, South Africa $19.99......................................................................................... 25 Jaume Serra nv Cristalino Brut Cava Catalunya, Spain $60.99.............................................................................................. Insert Ka Tahi 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $18.99.......................................................................................... 25 KH Schneider 2015 Felsenberg Riesling Spätlese Nahe, Germany $42.99................................................................................... 14 La Cave de Valençay 2017 Patagon Rouge Loire Valley, France $18.99...................................................................................... 25 Le Ragnaie 2016 Troncone Rosso Tuscany, Italy $23.99............................................................................................................. 62 Les Domaines Auriol 2018 Catch & Release Sauvignon Languedoc-Roussillon, France $16.99................................................. 25 Mas d’en Gil 2014 Coma Alta Garnacha Blanca Priorat, Spain $47.99...................................................................................... 33 McManis 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Lodi, California $23.99..................................................................................................... 62 Pikes Vintners 2019 Viognier Clare Valley, Australia $24.99....................................................................................................... 62 Pinuaga 2016 Colección Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $21.99....................................................................................................... 55 Pinuaga 2019 Rosé Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $15.99......................................................................................................... 34, 55 Pinuaga 2018 Tinto Garnacha/Tempranillo Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $14.99............................................................... Insert, 55 Pinuaga 2019 Bianco Sauvignon Blanc Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $14.99................................................................................. 55 Pinuaga 2015 200 Cepas Tempranillo Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $31.99.................................................................................. 55 Ployez-Jacquemart nv Brut Champagne, France $66.99.............................................................................................................. 14 Precision Wine Co. 2017 Windstorm Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon California, USA $19.99....................................................... 25 Reassi 2018 Terre D’Argilla Manzoni Bianco Veneto, Italy $22.99............................................................................................. 62 Red Electric 2016 Interurban Pinot Noir Oregon, USA $49.99................................................................................................... 14 Santa Ema 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Maipo Valley, Chile $15.99................................................................................................... 24 Santa Julia 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza Argentina $15.99............................................................................................ 25 Spanish Tasting Case $99.99....................................................................................................................................................... 46 Telmo Rodriguez 2018 Gaba do Xil Godello Valdeorras, Spain $23.99...................................................................................... 26 Tempus Two 2019 Silver Series Rosé, South Australia $12.99..................................................................................................... 25 Tempus Two 2017 Silver Series Shiraz, South Australia $12.99................................................................................................... 29 Viña Zorzal 2016 Cuatro del Cuatro Graciano Navarra, Spain $33.99...................................................................................... 36 Viña Zorzal 2018 Garnacha Blanca Navarra, Spain $16.99........................................................................................................ 24 Vinçonniere 2017 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Loire Valley, France $14.99.................................................................................... 24 Zarate 2018 Albariño Rías Baixas, Spain $26.99............................................................................................................. Insert, 33

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of all products, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Jones & Company Wine Merchants JonesWines.com 57

* C U STOMER P IC K *

top picks

NIGEL DAWES

RICKI-LEE PODOLECKI

ROB STANSEL

McManis 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, California $23.99

Pikes Vintners 2019 Viognier Clare Valley, Australia $24.99

Le Ragnaie 2016 Troncone Toscana Rosso, Italy $23.99

This Cabernet holds a special place for me as it was the wine my wife and I served at our wedding. This classic California Cabernet is bursting with notes of blackberry, cassis, mocha, a hint of smoke, and creamy vanilla. It is my go-to Cabernet Sauvignon for backyard barbequed burgers or just to sip with friends.

Get Pike’d for this wine! Restrained but full of energy, the notes of the Pikes Viognier showcase camomile, lemon, and ripe peach. The textures build, with an opulent mid-palate and full flavours of green apples and honeydew. Its Clare Valley high acidity keeps it structured. A great pairing with butternut squash soup, this is a fall favourite.

From a high-altitude site in Montalcino, this is 100% Sangiovese, a “Brunello junior,” in all but name: the government won’t acknowledge the vineyard as DOCG, as it is just above the 600-metre threshold. Wine law fail. It is fermented in concrete, with elevage in Slovenian oak. A savoury red with aromas of dried herbs, red currants, and cedar. Tangy and bright. Think pappardelle and beef ragu.

DYLAN WATKINS

ANTON SIKORSKY

SARALYN MEHTA

Alpha Estates 2015 Axia Macedonia, Greece $23.99

Domaine Lafond 2018 Roc-Épine, Côtes du Rhône, France $22.99

Reassi 2018 Terre D’Argilla Manzoni Bianco Veneto, Italy $22.99

You might not be thinking about Greek wines, but you should be. Alpha Estates is a winery in the Amyndeon, Florina region of Greece. Their Axia is a 50/50 blend of Syrah and Xinomavro, showing blackberry and spice on the nose. The palate exudes characters of dark fruit and vanilla with a long finish. Pair with your yiayia’s cooking.

Lately, I have been finding myself drinking more wine from the Côtes du Rhône. This is the most recent in a run of wonderful wines. A nose of cherry, blackberry, and stone leads into a well-balanced palate full of fresh red fruit, with hints of red licorice and pepper. This is the perfect wine to enjoy alongside a charcuterie board!

Manzoni Bianco is a unique grape created by crossing the vines of Riesling and Pinot Blanc. Full bodied with lovely acidity, this weighty white shows notes of spring flowers and tropical fruits balanced by a refreshing minerality and an appealing acidity. A perfect pairing with warm seafood dishes, hearty salads, and lighter meat dishes.

58 Order online: JonesWines.Cornervine.com

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