NE W
Sewing
Everything you need to start creating today
Master your machine Make your own clothes Perfect seams and hems All major stitches covered
11 creative
ELEVENTH EDITION
Digital Edition
projects
Setting up
Pins and needles So many pins, needles, cushions, and threaders are available to choose from at the fabric store, that it’s hard to know where to start. The following are a few basic types you need to get started. You can add to your collection as you discover what types you do and don’t like and which things you use the most
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1. S teel straight pins with colorful glass heads are easy to see and use, and they won’t melt under a hot iron. 2. A magnetic “pincushion” is one of my most favorite tools. Just swipe it over your sewing table or even the floor and watch it magically pick up any loose pins! 3. A stuffed pincushion allows pins to stand upright so they’re easy to grab when you only have one free hand. It also keeps the point of the pins clean and sharp because they’re not exposed to dust and moisture. Some varieties even attach right to your sewing machine. 4. S afety pins are used to pull elastic through casings. They can also be used in place of pins if you’re working on a large project you want to fold up and save for later. 5. H and-sewing needles come in a variety of sizes for both the eye and the length/width of the needle. It’s good to always have a variety pack of needles on hand; you never know when you might need a supersmall one for something delicate or a larger one for thick, tough fabric. 6. A needle threader can be a useful tool if you have trouble seeing that tiny needle eye or have shaky hands. You can use it on either a hand-sewing needle or a machine needle.
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10 Sewing for Beginners
“A needle threader can be a useful tool if you have trouble seeing that tiny needle eye or have shaky hands”
Measuring tools Measuring and marking tools are something you’ll want to have on hand when working on sewing projects. You can choose from a variety of tools, based on your personal preference. Here are a few of the essentials
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1. A seam gauge is a small ruler with a sliding marker. It’s used to measure out even hems or evenly spaced pleats or tucks. 2. Washable cloth-marking pencils are used to make markings on fabric and these can be removed with water. These are used for transferring guidelines on patterns to the cut pieces. 3. A clear, plastic ruler is used for basic measuring, marking buttonholes, lining up the grain, and marking pleats. It is also used with a rotary cutter to make long, straight cuts with extra precision. 4. A water-erasable marker is used in the same way as a marking pencil. It is also used to mark while fitting a garment on a person. Be cautious not to iron over these marks—the heat will set them in the fabric, making them permanent! 5. A flexible tape measure is used for taking measurements of the body so you can create properly sized garments. It’s usually 60 inches (152.4 cm) in length and has centimeter markings on the opposite side. Sewing for Beginners 11
Setting up
Anatomy of a sewing machine While several different types of sewing machines exist, most have the same basic parts and features. Here’s a general breakdown of the features of a sewing machine (refer to your machine’s manual for specifics) 3 1
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Handwheel
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Power button
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Power cord jack
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Spool pin
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Buttonhole lever
Handle
Above 1. Thread guide 2. Tension dial 3. Bobbin winder 4. Operation panel 5. Handwheel 6. Take-up lever 7. Speed control 18 Sewing for Beginners
8. Thread cutter 9. Needle position 10. Reverse stitch 11. Needle threader 12. Bobbin thread guide 13. Bobbin housing 14. Throat plate 15. Stitch selection chart
Foot controller jack
Presser foot lever
Feed dog position
Presser foot
Machine needles Different types of fabrics require different types of needles. Although a universal needle can work on a variety of fabric types and weights, it’s best to use the proper needle for your project to achieve the best results. Here are some of the common types, along with instructions on how to replace your needle Universal needles can be used on a variety of fabrics, both knit and woven
Microtex or sharp needles work with silk, foils, and faux leathers
Twin needles are used to create two parallel rows of stitching (for example, jeans topstitching)
Jersey or ballpoint needles are used on knits and stretch fabrics
Notice the tiny stopper inside the needle shaft; slide the needle up to this point
01 Loosen needle clamp
Lower the presser foot, or remove the foot to have more space. To release the needle, loosen the needle clamp screw by hand or with the small screw driver that came with your machine.
02 Pull out needle
Pull out the needle. Notice the direction the flat side of the needle fits in the slot, toward the back or the front. Insert the new needle into place, and tighten the screw to secure. Sewing for Beginners 19
Getting started
Straight stitch & zigzag stitch Sewing a straight line is a basic and important skill to master, as uneven seams affect the fit or look of a project. The multiple variations of a zigzag stitch have functional and decorative uses
Straight stitch
Zigzag stitch
A basic, yet unmissable stitch
For extra security, try this wonky stitch
Thread lines
Width selection
Length selection
01 Secure thread
02 Lower foot to start
Be sure the upper thread is under the foot but over the fabric, and both threads are behind the foot.
Lower the foot, and push the pedal to sew. Guide the fabric with your hands from the front. Do not pull. Zigzag stitch
Now let’s practice some straight stitches! Set your stitch length at .5 and sew a straight line. Stop sewing, lift the presser foot, and cut the threads. Slide the fabric over 1/4 inch (.6 cm). Change the stitch length to 1, and sew another row of straight stitches. Continue this process while adjusting the stitch length for each row. 5
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.5 5
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The shortest stitch length setting creates a satin stitch. Changing the stitch length causes stitches to be closer together or spread out. The width of a stitch doesn’t change. 30 Sewing for Beginners
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Changing the stitch width adjusts the width of the zigzag. The stitches above are all sewn at the same length; only the width has been adjusted.
Backstitch Sewing a backstitch will secure (or knot) your seam. To sew this stitch, you will be using the backstitch button or lever (depending on your model)
To sew the backstitch
Most machines have a curved-arrow icon on the backstitch button
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01 Forward stitch
Begin by stitching two forward stitches.
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02 Backward stitch
Stop sewing, then push the backstitch button and hold it down while sewing two backward stitches.
03 Forward once more
Release the button and continue sewing forward.
Basting: what’s that all about? Notice the difference between the two rows of basting compared to the standard-size straight stitch
The basting stitch is used to hold pieces of fabric together temporarily. It is also used to create ease or gathers. To sew this stitch, select the highest number on the stitch length selector, usually 5. Remember, basting is meant to be removed – don’t backstitch!
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Getting started
Types of trim Trims come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They can be sewn in the seam or applied to the outside edge. Trims like bias tape can be used to cover raw edges, while trims like ribbons and lace are used to add detailed embellishment. Overall, trims are a great way to express your personal style and give your project a finished and professional look
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Crocheted lace and metallic lace can be sewn in the seam or on the outside edge. Hem tape, shown here in lace, is generally used on the inside edge of a hem.
Piping is sewn in the seam and is a great way to add a finished look to a pillow. Braided trims and cording are applied on the outside and are used as accents on a project.
The sheer portion slides into the seam, while the beads are exposed
Rickrack trim can be sewn in the seam or on the outside, with a straight stitch down the center. Grosgrain and satin ribbon are sewn along the edges on the outside of the fabric.
Beaded trim is sewn in the seam, while sequined trim is sewn on the outside. The pleated grosgrain ribbon trim is sewn in the seam along the stitched edge. Sewing for Beginners 49
The next step
Sewing with elastic Elastic comes in a variety of styles, weights, and sizes. You can use it to create gathers, ruffles, simple waistbands, or straps on a tank top! Some types of elastic are decorative and exposed, while others are sewn inside casings. You don’t need a special machine or special settings to sew with elastic—just your standard presser foot and straight or zigzag stitches. The following lessons will show you a variety of ways to use elastic Elastic casing What you need Seam gauge Elastic Straight pins Ruler and marking pencil Safety pin Zigzag (or standard) foot attachment
This example is for ½-inch-wide (1.25 cm) elastic, but you can easily make it any size
01 Fold, press, fold and sew
Similar to the hem, fold the fabric under 1⁄4 inch (.6 cm), press, and fold under again, only this time at 5⁄8 inch (1.5 cm). Pin and sew a straight seam along the inside fold. 70 Sewing for Beginners
02 Pin the elastic
Secure a safety pin in the end of the piece of elastic. This will guide it through the casing.
Be careful not to squeeze the pin - it might pop open!
03 Check the casing tube
The casing tube has been created. Notice the hollow space; the elastic will slide into this space.
04 Guide the elastic
Beginning with the safety pin, slide the elastic into the tube. You should be able to gently push the safety pin through the casing.
Watch the other end of the elastic to be sure it doesn’t slide inside the tube. When it gets close, pin it to secure
05 Keep sliding
Push the safety pin forward, grip the end of it with your fingers, and slide the fabric back. Keep going until the safety pin comes out the other side.
06 Secure with straight stitches
Once you have both ends pulled out of the tube, you can sew a few straight stitches to secure the elastic to the casing on both ends. Sewing for Beginners 71
The next step
Using a buttonhole foot Sewing buttonholes may seem like a scary prospect, but they’re not as difficult as they seem. Most sewing machines are equipped with an automatic buttonhole foot, which takes out the guesswork and provides great-looking, consistent results. An automatic buttonhole can be done in several styles, as you can see in this series of photos. The following shows you how to use a buttonhole foot to make a simple buttonhole; refer to your machine’s manual for the specifics
What you need Buttonhole foot attachment Button
Fit the button tightly into the holder by sliding the lower lever
Fabric marking pen Ruler
The silver bar is where the foot attaches to the presser foot holder. This is the front end of the foot
Place the button here to help you set the correct size
This space is where the buttonhole will be stitched
Study the image to become familiar with the buttonhole foot. Refer to your manual to identify the specific parts. 80 Sewing for Beginners
Pull this lever down and slide it behind the notch in the foot
The foot connects here The needle goes through this hole
01 Remove existing foot
Release the existing foot, slide it out of the way, and set it aside. Position the buttonhole foot under the presser foot holder, and lower it to attach.
03 Select stitch setting
Select the stitch setting for a buttonhole. On this machine, stitch number 30 is selected, and the width and length are set automatically.
02 Place buttonhole lever
Pull down the buttonhole lever and place it behind the notch on the foot. (This works with the button holder at the back of the foot to create the desired-size buttonhole.)
04 Mark buttonholes
Use a fabric marking pen and a ruler to mark the position of the buttonholes, keeping them at least an inch (2.5 cm) from the edge of the fabric. Sewing for Beginners 81
The next step
Applying appliqué You can do a variety of styles of appliqué—raw edge, satin stitched, double layer and reverse appliqué, etc. Appliqué can be used to add pop or flair to a project or patch a tear or hole
Satin stitch
Double layer
Raw edge
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Basic appliqué Here, we show you how to sew an appliqué—something you’ll be using for years to come! Notice the textured surface— that’s the glue. The smooth side is the paper backing
A traced design from a template drawn on the right side of the fabric is used for the appliqué
01 Find fusible web
Make sure you have fusible web, such as Heat and Bond or Wonder Under—it’s necessary to do the appliqué. You can find fusible web in sheets or a roll.
02 Cut fusible web and iron to design
Cut a piece of the fusible web large enough to cover the area of the appliqué design. Iron it to the wrong side of the fabric, textured side down. Cover the fusible web with a pressing cloth to protect it and the surface of the iron.
Use your regular scissors to cut out the appliqué; the glue residue would wreck your fabric shears
The shine on the back of the fabric is the glue after the paper is peeled away
03 Cut design
Let it cool. Cut out the design, making sure to cut through the fabric and the paper backing.
04 Peel paper backing
Carefully peel off the paper backing. You should see the backside of the design covered with a clear, shiny sheet. Sewing for Beginners 97
The next step
Reading the envelope Reading the Envelope
Many different patterns are available with envelopes of varying layouts, but one thing they all Many are available with Here, envelopes of varying layouts, one have in different common patterns is the information on them. we provide an example tobut show you what you’ll findinformation on pattern envelopes thing they all have in common is the on them. Here, I provide an
example to show you what you’ll find on pattern envelopes.
Number of pattern pieces Number of pattern pieces
Code Description of List of pattern Suggested number for garment or item, sizes in metric fabrics suitable orderingDescription of garment giving details of List of pattern and for garment Suggested fabrics sizes imperial in metric styleofand different measurements for suitable for garment or item as well and imperial measurements or item, giving details waist, Code number for asthe not and hips in and or item as wellas style and differentviews views included infor bust, waist,bust, ordering each size included in pattern the pattern hips in each size unsuitable fabrics suitable fabrics
5678
15 PIECES
MISSES’ UNLINED JACKET, SKIRT, SHORTS, AND PANTS. Unlined, semi-fitted, V-neck jacket has short sleeves, front buttons, optional waistline darts, and optional breast pocket. Straight skirt, above mid-knee, and trousers or shorts with straight legs, have waistband, front pleats, side seam pockets, and back zip.
FABRICS: Jacket, skirt, shorts, and trousers: wool crepe, soft cottons, sheeting, linen, silk, silk types, and lightweight woollens. Skirt, shorts, and trousers also challis, jacquards, and crepe. Unsuitable for fabrics printed with obvious diagonals. Allow extra fabric in order to match plaids, stripes, or one-way design fabrics.
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(6 78 58 81
Fabric needed Jacket 115 cm*/** 150 cm*/**
(6 1.70 1.30
Interfacing
1 m of 55–90 cm lightweight fusible or non-fusible
Skirt A Shorts B Pants B
B
B
115 cm*/** 150 cm*/** 115 cm*/** 150 cm*/** 115 cm*/** 150 cm* 150 cm**
Garment measurements Jacket bust Jacket waist Jacket back length Skirt A lower edge Skirt A length Shorts B leg width Shorts B side length Pants B leg width Pants B side length
Outline drawing of garment or item, including back views, showing darts Outline and zipdrawing positions of garment
or item, including back views, showing darts and zip positions
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Part 3: More Techniques
118 Sewing for Beginners
IMPERIAL
Body measurements Bust Waist Hip
10) (12 83 87 63.5 66 86 91
8 10) 1.70 1.70 1.30 1.30
14 16) 92 97 71 76 96.5 102
(12 1.80 1.40
each view
Use nap yardages/layouts for shaded, pile, or one-way design fabrics. *with nap. ** without nap NOTIONS: Thread. Jacket: three 7/8 in (1.2 cm) buttons; 1/4 in (6 mm) shoulder pads. Skirt, trousers: pkg of 1 1/4 in (3.2 cm) waistband interfacing; 7 in (18 cm) zip; and one hook and eye closure.
METRIC 8 80 61 84
Notions required for each Notionsview required for
(18 20 102 107 81 86 107 112
14 16) 1.80 2.10 1.70 1.70
(18 2.20 1.70
22) 112 cm 94 cm 117 cm
20 2.20 1.80
22) 2.20 m 1.80 m
1.6 1.2 1.6 1.2 2.4 2 1.6
1.6 1.2 1.6 1.2 2.4 2 1.6
1.6 1.3 1.6 1.3 2.4 2 1.8
1.6 1.3 1.6 1.3 2.4 2 2
1.9 1.3 1.9 1.3 2.4 2.1 2
1.9 1.3 1.9 1.3 2.4 2.1 2.1
1.9 1.4 1.9 1.4 2.4 2.2 2.2
1.9 1.4 1.9 1.4 2.7 2.3 2.3
2 1.5 2 1.5 2.7 2.3 2.3
m m m m m m m
(6 92 81 73 99 61 71 49.5 53.5 103
8 94.5 83 73.5 101 61 73.5 50 53.5 103
10) 97 86 74 104 61 76 51 56 103
(12 101 89.5 75 106 63 81 51.5 56 103
14 106 94.5 75.5 112 63 86.5 52 58.5 103
16) 111 100 76 117 63 94 52.5 58.5 103
(18 116 105 77 122 65 99 53.5 61 103
20 121 110 77.5 127 65 104 54 61 103
22) 126 116 78 132 65 109 54.5 63.5 103
cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm
Garment measurements box gives actual size of finished garment
Garment measurements box gives actual size of finished garment
Body measurements Bust Waist Hip
(6 301 ⁄2 23 321 ⁄2
8 311 ⁄2 24 331 ⁄2
Fabric needed Jacket 45 in*/** 60 in*/**
(6 17 ⁄8 13 ⁄8
8 10) 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8
Interfacing
11 ⁄8 yd of 22–36 in lightweight fusible or non-fusible
Skirt A Shorts B Pants B
45 in*/** 60 in*/** 45 in*/** 60 in*/** 45 in*/** 60 in* 60 in **
Garment measurements Jacket bust Jacket waist Jacket back length Skirt A lower edge Skirt A length Shorts B leg width Shorts B side length Pants B leg width Pants B side length
10) 321 ⁄2 25 341 ⁄2
13 ⁄4 11 ⁄4 13 ⁄4 11 ⁄4 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 13 ⁄4
17 ⁄8 11 ⁄4 13 ⁄4 11 ⁄4 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 13 ⁄4
17 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄4 13 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 17 ⁄8
(6 361 ⁄4 313 ⁄4 283 ⁄4 39 24 28 191 ⁄2 21 401 ⁄2
8 10) 371 ⁄4 381 ⁄4 323 ⁄4 333 ⁄4 29 291 ⁄4 40 41 24 24 29 30 193 ⁄4 20 21 22 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2
(12 34 261 ⁄2 36
14 36 28 38
16) 38 30 40
(18 40 32 42
20 42 34 44
22) 44 in 37 in 46 in
(12 17 ⁄8 11 ⁄2
14 2 17 ⁄8
16) 23 ⁄8 17 ⁄8
(18 23 ⁄8 17 ⁄8
20 23 ⁄8 17 ⁄8
22) 23 ⁄8 yd 2 yd
17 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄4 13 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 21 ⁄8
2 13 ⁄8 2 13 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄4 21 ⁄8
2 13 ⁄8 2 13 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄4 21 ⁄4
2 11 ⁄2 2 11 ⁄2 25 ⁄8 23 ⁄8 23⁄8
2 11 ⁄2 2 11 ⁄2 27 ⁄8 21 ⁄2 21 ⁄2
21 ⁄8 15 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 15 ⁄8 27 ⁄8 21 ⁄2 21 ⁄2
(12 393 ⁄4 351 ⁄4 291 ⁄2 42 243 ⁄4 32 201 ⁄4 22 401 ⁄2
14 413 ⁄4 371 ⁄4 293 ⁄4 44 243 ⁄4 34 201 ⁄2 23 401 ⁄2
16) 433 ⁄4 391 ⁄4 30 46 243 ⁄4 37 203 ⁄4 23 401 ⁄2
(18 451 ⁄4 411 ⁄4 301 ⁄4 48 251 ⁄2 39 21 24 401 ⁄2
20 473 ⁄4 431 ⁄4 301 ⁄2 50 251 ⁄2 41 211 ⁄4 24 401 ⁄2
22) 493 ⁄4 451 ⁄4 303 ⁄4 52 251 ⁄2 43 211 ⁄2 25 401 ⁄2
Chart to follow for required fabric quantity, indicating size across top, and chosen view and correct down thefor side Chartwidth to follow required fabric quantity,
indicating size across top, and chosen view and correct width down the side
yd yd yd yd yd yd yd
in in in in in in in in in
In a pattern envelope, you’ll find printed instructions and pattern pieces printed on tissue paper. The instruction sheet shows the variations that can be made; each variation is labeled with a letter and corresponds to specific pattern pieces. You will also find a cutting layout printed for each style variation. Each pattern piece will have specific markings on the pieces and images to show the right and wrong sides of the fabric.
“E-patterns usually have full-color, stepby-step pictures to walk you through”
The exciting world of e-patterns E-patterns are PDFs of patterns sold online. You simply pay for the pattern, download it, and print it out on your own printer. E-patterns usually have full-color, step-by-step pictures to walk you through your sewing project, and each picture is lined up with the text for easy readability. The pattern pieces print out on standard, 81⁄2 x 11-inch (21 x 28 cm) paper. Some e-patterns print out a full piece on one page. For example, a doll clothes pattern has small-enough pieces to fit all on one page. Larger pieces, like children- and adult-size clothing patterns, are printed out and taped together to create the full-size piece. This new style of pattern is a popular trend—just search online to see what’s available!
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Creative projects
Felt coffee cozy Often bring your own coffee into the office? Why not personalize your cup and protect your hands at the same time? What you need • Knowledge of straight seams and zigzag stitching • Felt fabric in one color • Fleece fabric in one color (you can also use felt for the top layer) • Scissors • Pinking shears • Sewing machine • Handsewing needle • Traced, cut-out pattern piece from this book
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felt coffee cozy is a perfect first sewing project. It has just two pieces to cut out, uses felt fabric that doesn’t need to be hemmed, and has very few steps to follow to complete it. Whether you’re drinking coffee, tea, or a yummy cup of hot cocoa, your hands will thank you for this cozy.
Top layer
01 Cut out the pattern
Cut out the fabrics using the provided pattern pieces. Cut the top and bottom edges of the bottom layer of felt with pinking shears for a decorative look. Bottom layer
02 Place top pattern onto bottom layer
Place the print top layer on top of the blue bottom layer, centering it so there’s an equal distance at the top and bottom edges. 140 Sewing for Beginners
03 Zigzag the top
04 Zigzag the bottom
05 Connect the sides
06 Clip seam allowance
Sew a zigzag stitch along the top edge of the fleece, being sure to keep the fabric evenly spaced from the edge.
With the right sides together, fold the piece in half and line up the center back seam. Pin and straight stitch at a 1⁄4-inch (.6 cm) seam allowance.
Stitch a zigzag stitch on both the top and bottom edges. The stitch should cover the raw edge.
Grade the seam allowance by clipping one side of the seam close to the stitching line.
This handy little item requires little fabric, so it’s a nice extra project to do after you’ve finished a larger piece and have some spare pieces of fabric lying around. Sewing for Beginners 141
Creative projects
Appliqué pillow Creating a pillow is pretty simple. You sew two squares together, leaving a small space open for stuffing, and sew it closed with a few hand stitches to finish it up! You can make it in any size or shape—just make sure to cut both shapes the same size. You can embellish the pillow with an appliqué and add piping What you need • Knowledge of straight seams, pivoting, sewing corners, appliqué, and attaching trim • Two 18 x 18-inch (45.75 x 45.75 cm) pieces fabric (Quilting cotton is used here, but you can use any type of fabric that doesn’t have stretch.) • Scraps of fabric for appliqué • One package or 90 inches (229 cm) piping • 24-oz. package batting/polyfill • 6 x 11-inch (15 x 28 cm) piece fusible web, such as Heat and Bond • Measuring tape • Scissors • Sewing machine • Fabric marking tool • Zipper foot • Hand-sewing needle • Iron
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9000
01 Create template
02 Stack your hearts
03 Apply fusible web
04 Position letters
05 Peel, bond and iron
06 Satin stitch the V
Use a computer or hand draw the LOVE template. Trace these letters onto your fabric, and prepare the appliqué with fusible web. Cut out the letters and shapes.
Cut out a small piece of the fusible web, and apply it to the back of your felt heart.
Peel off the paper backing, and bond the appliqué to the fabric with an iron. Allow it to cool completely before moving on to the next step.
To create the double appliqué heart, stack the first layer on a piece of felt. Bond with fusible web and trim around the edges to create a framed look.
Mark the center of the pillow front with a pin or fabric marking tool. Position your letters until you are happy with the placement.
Stitch around the V using a satin stitch. The stitch should cover the raw edge of the appliqué fabric. Sewing for Beginners 155