EP1343468A1 - Method for protecting the skin from aging - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for protecting the skin from aging which is characterized by topically applying an agent, containing a Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, which stimulates the synthesis of dermal macromolecules. The invention further relates to the use of extracts from Saccharomyces cerevisiae in agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules.

Description

Process for protecting the skin against aging

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetic and dermatological care products and relates to a method for protecting human skin against aging by topical application of an agent which stimulates the synthesis of dermal macromolecules. Furthermore, the invention relates to the use of extracts from the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae for applications in cosmetic and dermatological care products.

State of the art

The dermis is made up of cells (fibroblasts and mast cells), tissue components (collagen and elastin) and so-called basic substances. These basic substances include macromolecules such as glycosaminoglycans (GAG) (hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate) and glycoproteins. The aging of the skin reduces the intermolecular strengthening and elasticity of the dermis and thus the tightness of the skin. The number of existing skin cells, especially fibroblasts, is also reduced as the skin ages. The collagen fibers become fragmented over time and the proportion of insoluble to soluble collagen increases. The fine dermal elastic fibers coarsen and are destroyed. The synthesis of GAG (glycosaminoglycan) is reduced. All of these processes contribute to skin aging and its manifestations such as wrinkles and lack of firmness of the skin.

The further developments in the field of measurement methods mean that new modes of action of known active ingredients can be tested and found. The disadvantage of many known methods for determining cosmetic effects lies in the need to test directly on the skin of the test person, for example the determination of surface properties on the skin. The effectiveness of light stabilizers is also determined by direct UV irradiation of certain areas of the test subjects' skin. An in vitro determination of the effects of certain active substances is desirable and advantageous in many respects.

It is known that extracts from yeasts offer important therapeutic options in medicine and are also used in cosmetics. The yeast Saccharomyces cerevisea contains numerous compounds, especially in its cytoplasm, such as carbohydrates, proteins, lipids, nucleic acids, vitamins and minerals such as zinc, copper and silicon. Already in ancient Egypt, yeast was recommended for the local treatment of hemorrhoidal complaints and was later used to treat pustules, burns and itchy rashes. The yeast has been shown to have an antibacterial effect. Today, yeast is still administered to the skin for inflammatory and allergic reactions. In this context, reference is made to the following writings. From the abstract of Japanese publication JP 09124438 it is known that extracts from Saccharomyces cerevisiae are used as moisturizers, as anti-acne agents or as melanin inhibitors can. EP 297457 describes that a certain fraction from the gel filtration of an extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae is used as a revitalizing agent.

Cosmetic preparations are available to the consumer in a variety of combinations today. Nevertheless, there is a need in the market for products with an improved range of services. Here, skin tolerance and the use of natural ^' products are in demand at the customer. For the manufacture of products that allow a multitude of applications at the same time, the problem has hitherto been that a large number of active ingredients have to be added to their preparations, which together result in the desired profile of requirements, without interfering with one another or even producing undesirable side effects , Accordingly, there is a particular interest in care products that combine the desired properties. In addition, it is desirable to find significantly better products by finding new areas of use for already known substance classes. Extracts of renewable raw materials and their ingredients are used more and more frequently in cosmetics.

Description of the invention

The object of the present patent application was to provide a method in which the human skin can be protected from aging by topical application of an agent which contains extracts from renewable raw materials.

Another object of the present patent application was to find new effects from already known extracts and to enable the use of these extracts in cosmetic and / or dermatological care products by using measurement methods which make it possible to demonstrate these effects.

The invention relates to a method for protecting human skin against aging, characterized in that an agent containing an extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which stimulates the synthesis of dermal macromolecules, is applied topically.

Surprisingly, it has been found that a method in which an agent is applied topically which can stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules can protect the human skin from aging.

The stimulating effects on the synthesis of dermal macromolecules of the extract from the renewable raw material Saccharomyces cerevisiae make it very attractive for the market. The complex object of the invention could thus be achieved.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae

The extracts to be used according to the invention are obtained from the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae. This yeast is popularly known as brewer's yeast. It is generally used for the production of food and beverages. It is a yeast from the genus of the family Saccharomycetaceae (real yeast). The cells are round, ellipsoidal or cylindrical and multiply vegetatively through multilateral budding. Saccharomyces cerevisiae live mainly on fruits and in plant juices and are not pathogenic. Availability is very high and independent of the seasons.

extraction

The extracts to be used according to the invention are prepared by customary extraction methods. Regarding the suitable conventional extraction methods such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, movement maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux , which is carried out in a Soxhiet extractor, which is familiar to a person skilled in the art and in principle all can be used, is exemplary of Hager's Handbook of Pharmaceutical Practice, (5th edition, vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin- Heidelberg-New-York 1991). Fresh or dried mushrooms or mushroom components can be used as the starting material, the use of dried mushrooms or mushroom components is preferred, but usually mushrooms or mushroom components are used which are mechanically comminuted before extraction. All grinding methods known to the person skilled in the art are suitable here, for example crushing with a mortar.

Water, organic solvents or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low-molecular alcohols, hydrocarbons, ketones, esters or halogen-containing hydrocarbons with more or less high water contents (distilled or undistilled), preferably distilled water of a temperature, can preferably be used as the solvent for carrying out the extractions greater than or equal to 80 ° C can be used. Extraction with water, methanol, ethanol, hexane, cyclohexane, pentane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, trichloromethane and mixtures thereof is particularly preferred. The extraction is usually carried out at 50 to 100 ° C, preferably at 80 ° C, especially at the boiling point of the solvent used. In one possible embodiment, the extraction takes place under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the ingredients of the extract. The extraction times are set by the person skilled in the art depending on the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc. After the extraction, the crude extracts obtained can optionally be subjected to further customary steps, such as purification, concentration and / or decolorization. If desired, the extracts produced in this way can, for example, be subjected to a selective separation of individual undesirable ingredients. The extraction can be carried out to any desired degree of extraction, but is usually carried out until exhaustion. Typical yields (= dry matter amount of the extract based on the amount of raw material used) in the extraction of dried mushrooms or dried mushroom components, if appropriate degreased, are in the range from 2 to 25, in particular 5 to 20,% by weight. The The present invention includes the knowledge that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be selected depending on the desired field of use. If desired, the extracts can then be subjected to spray drying or freeze drying, for example.

In a special embodiment of the invention, the extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae is the dried product of the aqueous extract.

The amount of yeast extracts used in the preparations mentioned depends on the type of application of the extracts and on the concentration of the individual ingredients. The total amount of the extract, preferably as a dry product, in particular from the aqueous extract which is contained in the preparations according to the invention, is generally 0.001 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 % By weight based on the final preparation, with the proviso that the amounts given with water and, if appropriate, further auxiliaries and additives add up to 100% by weight.

In a further particular embodiment of the invention, the agents of the process according to the invention also contain mannitol, and / or cyclodextrin and / or salts of succinic acid, in particular the disodium salt of succinic acid, as additives. In addition to the additives mentioned, other auxiliaries and additives may also be present.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the final preparation of the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations. The preparations can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

For the purposes of the invention, the terms preparations, final preparations and agents are to be equated with the term care agent.

Active substance in the sense of the invention relates to the proportion of substances and auxiliaries and additives which are contained in the preparations, with the exception of the additionally added water.

The agents for the method according to the invention show an excellent skin-care effect with high skin tolerance. In addition, they show good stability, in particular against oxidative decomposition of the products.

In a further embodiment of the method according to the invention, the dermal macromolecules are those which are selected from the group formed from glycosaminoglycans, in particular chondroitin sulfate, keratan sulfate, dermatan sulfate and hyaluronic acid, collagen, in particular collagen type III, elastin, fibronectin, proteoglycans and their salts.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae in cosmetic and / or dermatological agents to stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules selected from the group consisting of glycosaminoglycans, in particular chondroitin sulfate, keratin sulfate and hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin, fibronectin, proteoglycans and their salts.

By stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules, the method according to the invention leads to the protection of human skin from aging. Furthermore, the method according to the invention can stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules for preventive or curative treatment of signs of aging in the skin. Another name for this type of care product is anti aging. These signs of aging include any type of wrinkles and wrinkles. Treatments include slowing skin aging. The signs of aging can have a variety of causes.

Dermal macromolecules

In the context of the invention, dermal macromolecules are in principle to be understood as all macromolecules which are found as components of the skin either in the basement membrane between the dermis and epidermis or in the dermis and epidermis. In particular, they are compounds which are selected from the group formed by glycosaminoglycans, collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, fibronectins and their salts.

Glycosaminoglycans are also known as mucopolysaccharides and are negatively charged polysaccharides (glycans), which consist of 1, 4-linked units of disaccharides in which 1 mol. Of a so-called uronic acid (e.g. D-glucuronic acid, L-iduronic acid) with the 3-position of an N-acetylated amino sugar (glycosamine) is glycosidically linked. According to the nature of this amino sugar, a distinction is made between D-glucosamino u. D-Galactosaminoglykane. Often, sulfuric acid is also bound to oxygen or nitrogen atoms, so that the glycosaminoglycans usually react strongly acidic. With the exception of hyaluronic acid, the glycosaminoglycans in the tissue are linked to a core protein in several chains and thus form proteoglycans. They are found in the skin as framework substances. According to the invention, the synthesis of the glycosaminoglycans which are selected from the group formed by chondroitin sulfates, keratin sulfate, dermatan sulfate and hyaluronic acid is preferably stimulated

Collagen consists of protein fibers and occurs in human skin in three different types (types I, III and IV). In collagen, the individual polypeptide chains, each containing a large amount of the amino acid proline and glycine as every third residue, are wound around each other to form a triple helix. The collagen fibers are synthesized as tropocollagen in the fibroblasts and discharged into the extracellular matrix. The stimulation of the synthesis of collagen according to the invention leads to an increase in the production of collagen and thus to an increased intermolecular consolidation of the dermis and thereby to a skin which appears firmer. The elastin is also a fibrous protein. These are unstructured covalently cross-linked polypeptide chains, the one Form rubber-like elastic material. After synthesis, the elastin is released into the extracellular matrix in the skin cells. The stimulation of the synthesis of the elastin polypeptide chains according to the invention leads to an increase in the production of elastin and thus to an increase in the elasticity of the skin.

Like glycoproteins, proteoglycans consist of carbohydrates and proteins, but the proportion of polysaccharides predominates in proteoglycans. The skin's proteoglycans contain dermatan sulfate. Approx. 140 such proteoglycans with the help of smaller proteins (link proteins) attach noncovalently to a hyaluronic acid chain to form molecular aggregates with an average molecular weight of approx. 2 million. The polyanionic aggregates, which are characterized by their water-binding capacity, can form solid gels that give the supporting tissue (extracellular matrix) elasticity and tensile strength. They protect the epithelia in mucus. The stimulation of the synthesis of proteoglycans and hyaluronic acid according to the invention leads to a larger amount of extracellular matrix and thus to an increased elasticity and tensile strength.

Fibronectin is a group of high molecular weight glycoproteins (MR of the dimer approx. 440 000-550 000), which are found in the extracellular matrix and in extracellular fluids. The fibronectin dimer, connected by two disulfide bridges, an elongated molecule with the dimensions 600x25 Å, binds by linear combination of three different repeating domains and the like. a. Collagens, glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, fibrin (above), deoxyribonucleic acids, immunoglobulins, plasminogen, plasminogen activator, thrombospondin, cells and microorganisms. Through these properties, it conveys z. B. the adherence of connective tissue cells to collagen fibrils or of platelets and fibroblasts to fibrin (contribution to wound healing).

Hyaluronic acid is an acidic glycosaminoglycan, the basic building block of hyaluronic acid is an aminodisaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine in a (beta 1-3) glycosidic bond, which is (beta 1-4) glycosidic with the next unit connected is.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from Saccharomyces cerevisiae in agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules

In further particular embodiments of the use according to the invention, the extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae is the dried product of the aqueous extract and contain the agents between 0.001 and 25% by weight extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae, preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, based on the final preparation, with the proviso that the amounts given with water and possibly other auxiliaries and additives add up to 100% by weight.

Furthermore, in a particular embodiment, the agents used for the use according to the invention also contain mannitol and / or cyclodextrin and / or salts of succinic acid, in particular the disodium salt of succinic acid. In a further preferred embodiment of the use according to the invention, the dermal macromolecules are substances which are selected from the group formed by glycosaminoglycans, in particular chondroitin sulfate, keratan sulfate, dermatan sulfate and hyaluronic acid, elastin, collagen, in particular collagen type III, fibronectin and Proteoglycans and their salts.

In principle, the extracts according to the invention can be used in all cosmetic products. Examples of cosmetic products are described in their formulations in Tables 2 to 4.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations

The method according to the invention includes the topical application of agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules. These agents can be used for the production of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, such as, for example, bubble baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or ointments. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, Contain deodorants, antiperspirants, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of which in the compositions is usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymethersulfate sulfates, hydroxymether ether sulfates, hydroxymethersulfate sulfates, hydroxymether ether sulfate, , Mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids, such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl asucate fats (alkyl oligoglucate) products (alkyl oligoglucosate), phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters,

Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, protein hydrolyzates (in particular vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters and sugar oxides, sorbates, sorbates, sorbates. Unless the non-ionic If surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, reference is made to relevant reviews, for example, J.Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, Tenside und Mineralöladditive ", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether, Monogly- ceridsulfate, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates , the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-Ci3 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22-fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat , Isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl behenate, blyl ethenyl behenate, bye styrene Behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of Cιs-C38-alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C ₂₂ fatty alcohols (cf. DE 19756377 A1), in particular dioctyl malate , Esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Cδ-cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on Cδ-Cis- Fatty acids, esters of Cδ-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 Alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) ) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

emulsifiers

Non-ionic surfactants, for example, come from at least one of the following as emulsifiers

Groups in question:

> Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

> Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

> Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

> Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

> Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

> Wool wax alcohols;

> Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

> Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;

> Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1.TR-2) from Goodrich;

> Polyalkylene glycols as well

> Glycerine carbonate. The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride hydroxy, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid, Ölsäuremonogiycerid, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, linoleic acid diglyceride, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, erucic acid diglyceride, rid Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citronendiglyce-, Malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain minor amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable.

As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, Sorbitan, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan come tanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, sorting bitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat , Sorbitane sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan citrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan malate, sorbitan tri- maleate and their technical gem. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearates (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyearylate-3 (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), PolygIyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL) , Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium alkylglycinate, and 2-carboxylate -3-hydroxyethylimidazoiine each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβ / iβ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -Sθ3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. Solid or liquid vegetable or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes, among others. natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, espartogras wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin wax; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The term “lecithins” is understood by those skilled in the art to mean those glycerophospholipids which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol,

n Form phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and is preferred / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, furthermore higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates , (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides , Esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Überfettunqsmittel

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecitol derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers, stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or

Zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, for example, amodimethicones, copolymers of dimethylaminophenyl amine (copolymers of adipohydrin amine) Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g. described in FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, non-reacted acrylamide and polyethylenethacrylate acrylate and with polyesters, uncured amide acrylate and with polyesters, uncured amide acrylamide and with polyesters, uncommonized acrylamide and Copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,

Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers as well as optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Silicone Compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976). UV protection factors

Sunscreens or UV light protection factors in the sense of the invention are light protection agents which are useful for protecting human skin against the damaging effects of direct and indirect radiation from the sun. The sun's ultraviolet radiation, which is responsible for tanning the skin, is divided into the sections UV-C (wavelengths 200-280 nm), UV-B (280-315 nm) and UV-A (315-400 nm).

The pigmentation of normal skin under the influence of solar radiation, i.e. H. the formation of melanins is UV-B u. UV-A causes different. Irradiation with UV-A rays ("long-wave UV") results in the darkening of the melanin bodies already present in the epidermis, without any damaging influences being recognizable. This is different with the so-called "short-wave UV" (UV-B) , This causes the development of so-called late pigment through the formation of new melanin grains. However, before the (protective) pigment is formed, the skin is exposed to unfiltered radiation, which - depending on the duration of exposure - can lead to reddening of the skin (erythema), skin inflammation (sunburn) and even burn blisters,

The extracts of the fungus Grifola frondosa according to the invention are used as UV absorbers or light filters, which thus convert the UV radiation into harmless heat; these can additionally be present in combination with other sunscreens or UV light protection factors.

These further UV light protection factors are, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;

> 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);

> Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

> Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ® HEB);

> Propane-1,3-diones, such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; > Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert, butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4, are particularly suitable as typical UVA filters '-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds, as described for example in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF), Die UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. The pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or dimethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖF Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Perfumery and Cosmetics 3 (1999), page 11ff.

The extracts according to the invention can also be used in cosmetic and / or dermatological care products as tyrosinase inhibitors and / or as skin whitening agents. The skin whitening agents, also known as skin whiteners, lead to a lighter appearance of the skin. One way to lighten or whiten the skin is by inhibiting tyrosinase, because tyrosinase is involved in the formation of the skin pigment melanin (depigmentation). Due to the inhibition of tyrosinase, the use of extracts from Grifola frondosa according to the invention leads to reduced formation of melanin and thus to skin whitening. The extracts from Grifola frondosa can additionally be used in combination with other tyrosinase inhibitors as depigmenting agents such as arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C),

antioxidants

In addition to primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate , Distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low amounts tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate , Ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosin, butylated hydroxytisolol, , Nordihydroguajak- resin acid, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, Mannose and their derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Biogenic agents

Biogenic active substances include, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils and essential oils, plant extracts and essential oils , Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers. In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N ^' - (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4 ^' -Trichlor-2 ^' -hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chlorine -3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2 ^{'-methylene-bis} (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3 - (4-chlorophenoxy) -1, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate,

Chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 ^{'-Trichlorcarbanilid} (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylic acid-N -alkylamides such as B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate,

Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, cyanoacetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols are anethole, citronellellone Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrone oil, mandarin oil, allyl glycolate, orangalol oil, orangol oil, orangol oil, are preferred , Lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß- damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyisalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, alone or in mixtures, used.

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

> astringent active ingredients,

> Oil components,

> nonionic emulsifiers,

> Co-emulsifiers,

> Consistency generator,

> Auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or

> non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with propylene glycol-1, 2nd Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B, with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:

> anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils, synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or

> Oil-soluble perfume oils.

Common water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Insect repellents

As insect repellents there are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or ethyl

Butylacetylaminopropionate in question

Hvdrotrope

Hydrotropes, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

> Glycerin;

> Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

> technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

> Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

> Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

> Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol, > Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

> Aminosugars such as glucamine;

> Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.

perfume oils

Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances, natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, Caraway seeds, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and Grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl benzylatepylpropionate, and The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, and the ketones include, for example, the jonones, α-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evemyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures. dyes

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

Examples

Example 1: Extraction of the mushrooms with aqueous ethanol

150 g of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisia were added to 225 l of distilled water at a temperature of 80 ° C. and the mixture was first homogenized. The infusion was heated to 120 ° C with stirring and for 30 min. extracted. The extract was then centrifuged for 15 minutes at a rate of 5000 g. The supernatant liquid was concentrated by evaporation. The extract was then at 115 ° C for 20 min. sterilized, centrifuged and heated again to 110 ° C before it was filtered. The residue was spray dried. The yield of dry product was between 5 and 20% by weight based on the dry weight of the mushrooms used.

Example 2: Evidence of stimulation of the synthesis of dermal macromolecules

Background: The aim of these investigations is to demonstrate a stimulating activity of extracts from Saccharomyces cerevisiae on the synthesis of dermal macromolecules on human fibroblast cultures in vitro.

The dermis is made up of cells (fibroblasts and mast cells), tissue components (collagen and elastin) and so-called basic substances. These basic substances include, for example, glycosaminoglycans (GAG) such as, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate and glycoproteins. The aging of the skin reduces the intermolecular strengthening and elasticity of the dermis and thus the tightness of the skin. The number of existing skin cells, especially fibroblasts, is also reduced as the skin ages. The collagen fibers become fragmented over time and the proportion of insoluble to soluble collagen increases. The fine dermal elastic fibers coarsen and are destroyed. The synthesis of GAG (glycosaminoglycan) is reduced. All of these processes contribute to skin aging and its manifestations such as wrinkles and lack of firmness of the skin.

The following models can be used to demonstrate the stimulation of the synthesis of the dermal macromolecules and thus to identify an active substance that can act against skin aging, that is to say act as an anti-aging agent.

Method: The stimulation of the synthesis of dermal macromolecules was demonstrated by a method with two different measurement methods.

The first measurement method is based on the staining of macromolecules in a culture of human fibroblasts, which builds a collagen gel or collagen lattice fibers or a matrix with type I collagen. Certain regions of these fibers were quantified with the aid of staining reagents for the proportion of the macromolecules mentioned. In the second method, reactive structures and a specific characterization of the matrix of fibroblasts and collagen gel were investigated by reactions of the macromolecules with antibodies. The following antibodies were used:

• Anti-chondroitin sulfate

• Anti-keratin sulfate

• Anti-elastin

• Anti-collagen type III

For both measurement methods, a suspension of human fibroblasts was mixed with a solution of collagen type I (1-2 mg / ml). This mixture was mixed in a defined nutrient medium (DMEM = Dulbecco Minimum Essentiai Medium, company Life Technologie Sari) with 0.5- or 2% by weight of fetal calf serum (FCS) at 37 ° C in a 5% CO∑ atmosphere in Petri dishes (5 ml per dish) with the addition of various concentrations of the agent to be examined for 7 days.

The composition to be examined contained the following composition:

Extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae: 1 to 5%

Mannitol:> 50%

Cyclodextrin: 5 to 10%

• Disodium salt of succinic acid: 0.1 to 1% and is commercially available under the brand and name Cytovitin® from Laboratoires Serobϊologique.

After seven days of incubation, biopsies (tissue samples) were taken and histological sections of the collagen gel with human fibroblasts were obtained.After the first measurement method, the synthesis of macromolecules was quantified by staining glycosaminoglycan with PAS-Alcian blue e.g. from SIGMA according to the Periodic Acid Schiff Method (PAS), described in: Mowry RW, Anal. NY Adad. Sei, 106 Art 2, 402, 1963. The assessment of the stimulation of the synthesis of macromolecules was carried out directly in the vicinity of fibroblasts. This zone is also referred to as the "perifibroblast surface".

The kinetics of the collagen gel concentration in measurement method 1 was determined by measuring three perpendicular diameters on each collagen gel using a microscope with an image analysis system. After 7 days of incubation, the density of the collagen gel was determined by image analysis with a light source from visible light by comparing different gray levels. It is a relative determination of the density (0 = clear or white and 1 = black), which cannot be assigned a unit.

A quantification of the "perifibroblast" secretion was carried out by an image analyzer using a microscope. Reactive structures in the "perifibroblast area" were detected and the different gray levels were determined by comparison. The immunohistochemical reactions with the different antibodies were examined with a convocal laser scanning microscope from Zeiss. The images obtained from the convocal laser scanning microscopy were converted using standard software (Quantimet Q500 from Leica). The percentage of labeled macromolecules based on the total area of the examined sample was determined.

These two parameters are directly proportional to the intensity of the synthesis of macromolecules and thus to the GAG content (especially the content of chondroitin sulfate), the content of type III collagen and the content of fibroblast elastin. The results of the values of these parameters are shown in the following table and can be seen directly as representative values for the synthesis activity of the fibroblasts. In the table, the values from the sum of these two parameters are shown and compared as "synthesis factor of fibroblasts".

Table 1: "Synthesis factor of fibroblasts": directly proportional to the content of macromolecules in tissue samples of human fibroblasts with collagen after treatment with Cytovotin®

A significant increase can be obtained from the results of the determination of the glycosaminoglycan content in tissue samples of collagen gel with fibroblasts especially in the “perifibroblastic area” and after the evaluation of the characteristic antibody reactions with anti-chondroitin, anti-elastin and anti-collagen type III the proportion of macromolecules after a seven-day incubation period with different concentrations of Cytovitin® compared to incubation with pure fetal calf serum (FCS) in a concentration of 2% by weight. These values prove that a composition containing extracts from Saccharomyces cerevisiae stimulates the synthesis of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) in fibroblasts.

These results further prove that the extracts from Saccharomyces cerevisiae show a high capacity to stimulate the metabolism of fibroblasts.

3. Sample formulations of cosmetic products with Cytovitin®

The preparation containing extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is commercially available under the name Cytovitin®, was used in the following formulations K1 to K21 and 1 to 13 according to the invention. Compared to the comparative formulations V1, V2 and V3, the cosmetic compositions produced in this way had very good skin-care properties and, at the same time, good skin tolerance. In addition, the compositions according to the invention are stable against oxidative decomposition. Table 2: Soft cream formulations K1 to K7

(All data in% by weight relating to the cosmetic agent)

INCI name K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 V1

Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-12/20 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 (and) Cetearyi Alcohoi (and) Cetyl

Palmitate Cetearyi Alcohoi 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Dicaprylyl ether 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Cocoglycerides 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Cetearyi Isononanoate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Glycerin (86% by weight) 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Cytovitin ® 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Tocopherol 0.5

Allantoin 0.2

Bisabolol 0.5

Chitosan (Hydagen CMF) 10.0

Deoxyribonucleic acid ¹⁾ 0.5

Panthenol 0.5

Water ad 100

Table 3: Night cream formulations Kδ to K14

(All data in% by weight relating to the cosmetic agent)

INCI name K8 K9 K10 K11 K12 K13 K14 V2

Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 5.0

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Cera Alba 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Zinc Stearate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Cocoglycerides 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Cetaeryl Isononanoate 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0

Dicaprylyl ether 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

Magnesium sulfates 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

Glycerin (86% by weight) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

Cytovitin ® 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 -

Tocopherol 0.5

Allantoin 0.2

Bisabolol 0.5

Chitosan (Hydagen CMF) 10.0

Deoxyribonucleic acid ¹ > 0.5

Panthenol 0.5

Water ad 100

Table 4: W / O Bodviotion formulations K15 to K21

(All data in% by weight relating to the cosmetic agent)

INCI name K15 K16 K17 K18 K19 K20 K21 V3

PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0

Decyl Oleate 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0

Cetearyi Isononanoate 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0

Glycerin (86% by weight) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

MgSθ4 * 7 H2θ 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

Cytovitin ® 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

Tocopherol 0.5

Allantoin 0.2

Bisabolol 0.5

Chitosan (Hydagen CMF) 10.0

Deoxyribonucleic acid ¹ > 0.5

Panthenol 0.5

Water ad 100

¹⁾ Deoxyribonucleic acid: molecular weight approx. 70000, purity (determined by spectrophotometric measurement of the absorption at 260 nm and 280 nm): at least 1.7.

Claims

claims

1. A method for protecting human skin against aging, characterized in that an agent containing an extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which stimulates the synthesis of dermal macromolecules, is applied topically.

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae is the dried product of the aqueous extract.

3. The method according to claim 1 and / or 2, characterized in that the agent contains between 0.001 and 25 wt .-% extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent further contains mannitol, and / or cyclodextrin and / or salts of succinic acid, in particular the disodium salt of succinic acid.

5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dermal macromolecules are substances which are selected from the group formed by glycosaminoglycans, elastin, collagen, in particular collagen type III, fibronectin and proteoglycans and their salts.

6. The method according to claim 5, characterized in that the glycosaminoglycans are selected from the group consisting of chondroitin sulfate, keratin sulfate, dermatan sulfate and hyaluronic acid.

7. Use of extracts from Saccharomyces cerevisiae in agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules.

8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae is the dried product of the aqueous extract.

9. Use according to one of claims 7 and / or 8, characterized in that the agent contains between 0.001 and 25 wt .-% extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

10. Use according to claim 7 to 9, characterized in that the agent further contains mannitol, and / or cyclodextrin and / or salts of succinic acid, in particular the disodium salt of succinic acid.

11. Use according to one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that the dermal macromolecules are substances which are selected from the group formed by glycosaminoglycans, elastin, collagen, in particular collagen type III, fibronectin and proteoglycans and their salts.

12. Use according to claim 11, characterized in that the glycosaminoglycans are selected from the group consisting of chondroitin sulfate, keratin sulfate, dermatan sulfate and hyaluronic acid.