Seven California restaurants received early holiday gifts Tuesday.
The dining world’s prestigious Michelin Guide has named them as “new discoveries” — in a very early prelude to the release of its coveted California stars and Bib Gourmand honors in 2024.
The finds include three restaurants in San Francisco and four in Southern California.
Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, said in his announcement that he hopes this early reveal will strengthen ties to food lovers and give the industry a boost. “We hope that these regular revelations and updates to the selection throughout the year will provide opportunities to highlight the profession and invite everyone to discover and support the restaurants around them.”
These establishments are listed as “New” on guide.michelin.com. Michelin highlighted “new discoveries” for the first time in the summer of 2021, and has done so every year since.
The summer 2023 star announcements solidified California’s reputation as a culinary mecca, reaffirming all six of the state’s three-star restaurants and all 12 two-star restaurants and praising hundreds of others for impressive cuisine, affordable meals or high sustainability standards.
Will the praise for these restaurants be elevated to Michelin stars next year? Or become Bib Gourmand honors, the Michelin awards given to restaurants that offer “excellent food at reasonable prices” to diners? It’s a wait-and-see situation for these chefs.
Here is the list of the additions, along with dining notes from the Michelin inspectors:
DALIDA, San Francisco: “The lush seclusion of the Presidio seems at first an unlikely locale for a restaurant hotspot, but once the charisma and talent of married couple and co-chefs Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz are factored in, the popularity here is a foregone conclusion.” the Michelin inspectors wrote.
“The menu is broadly Eastern Mediterranean, drawing inspiration from the melting pot of Istanbul, with a bounty of dishes—from flaky, cheesy borek to juicy short rib kebabs with sweetbreads—that are well-suited to sharing with a group.
“Whatever else you opt for, consider it all but mandatory to start your meal with “breaking bread,” an assortment of spreads, olives, and pickles, served with superlatively pillowy, toasty pita that is rolled and hearth-baked to order—you’re unlikely to find better in the Bay Area.”
KILN, San Francisco: “Industry veterans Chef John Wesley and general manager Julianna Yang have combined their talents at Kiln, where the warehouse space is warmed by personable service and the kitchen delivers artful creations,” the Michelin inspectors wrote.
“The tasting menu (either full experience of some 20 courses, or an abbreviated bar tasting) leans Nordic, highlighting preservation techniques like curing, drying and fermentation in dishes whose simplicity is belied by intricate techniques and compelling flavor combinations.
“Opening snacks like a crispy curlicue of puffed beef tendon and sweet potato starch with onion vinegar capture this ethos, while others, like a squab breast lacquered with burnt honey and served with a truffled jus, display a classical bent.”
MOVIDA, San Francisco: “Just steps away from Oracle Park, this swanky restaurant-meets-lounge, complete with elevated DJ booth, is unique in more ways than one. Beyond the stylish space and earnest hospitality, the special draw here is a small menu that cleverly combines Mexican and Persian cuisines with surprisingly compelling results,” the Michelin inspectors wrote.
“Try halibut in a jade-green aguachile that combines tomatillo and green plum, offering a vivid, nuanced flavor; singular “tostadas” made with a crispy base of golden brown tahdig, topped with luscious beef birria accented with sumac; or a fried poblano filled with a savory mixture of rice, spiced lamb and queso Oaxaca. Drinks boast unusual savory combinations like mezcal with carrot juice and chiles, making for excellent accompaniments.”
BAROO, Los Angeles: “Married couple Kwang Uh and Mina Park are behind this modern Korean dining room in DTLA. The look is sleek (think concrete floors and black-and-white walls) and the seats to be had are at the chef’s counter, where you can watch the team at work. The format is tasting menu only, with options for wine and non-alcoholic pairings. Items may include a nicely seared Hokkaido scallop in a pool of watercress sauce with cubed seaweed jelly and puffed rice,” the Michelin inspectors wrote.
“Silky, soy-braised wild black cod is served in the center of a wide-rimmed bowl that is filled with a creamy buttermilk sauce that’s poured tableside. Finally, wood sorrel bingsu, shaved to order, is refreshingly tart and a nice contrast to the creamy panna cotta tucked beneath.”
HIBI, Los Angeles: “The menu is modern Japanese with Korean influences and is comprised of small plates and larger main dishes designed for sharing. Winning dishes include sliced raw hamachi in a flavor-packed broth of tomato juice and shiro dashi, and maitake mushrooms, grilled over binchotan and topped with an egg sabayon sauce that’s treated to a cured egg yolk microplaned tableside. To top it off, miso butter bar with a scoop of black pepper ice cream is a delicious alternative to the sweet finale,” the Michelin inspectors wrote.
“Hibi may have started life as a casual concept but it’s shifted gears and is firmly planted in the fine dining scene. The intimate space shares a sleek, minimalist design with gray walls, tables and chairs fitted with black leather.”
OLIVIA, Los Angeles: “This restaurant and wine bar in Koreatown charms from its intimate dining room where marble tables are topped with candles and flowers. The vegetarian menu displays both Korean and Mexican influences in dishes like breaded, deep-fried oyster mushrooms with a gochujang dipping sauce and fried squash blossoms filled with fully vegan macadamia ricotta, served on a bed of a pumpkin seed sauce. Nut-based white sauce and slow-roasted tomatoes add terrific flavor to the crispy and airy pizza,” the Michelin inspectors wrote.
“Finally, marjoram olive oil cake, served warm with a smooth and creamy passionfruit curd and stewed strawberries, brings it all home. The wine selection is curated by the chef/owner and is available by the glass or bottle.”
PARADISAEA, La Jolla: “Just look to its name to get a sense of what Paradisaea is all about. This La Jolla spot has an upscale tropical theme, where bar chairs are enlivened with a floral pattern and everything feels sunny and warm, especially outside on the patio,” the Michelin inspectors wrote.
“As might be expected, the mood extends to the bar, where tiki drinks take center stage. The kitchen turns out simple, contemporary cooking featuring local ingredients with Asian and tropical inflections. Case in point? Coconut shrimp, though here it’s grilled over a robata and served with a coconut-lime dipping sauce. Northern halibut is fried to a crispy, golden brown and served over a thin slice of watermelon radish and lettuce with green curry aioli and a sweet chili sauce.”
