Ties are making a comeback. Just not for the office

There was one thing missing at the most recent Academy Awards, aside from Barbie. Ties, it seems, are out. At least they are when it comes to occasions where ties are traditionally called for.

On the Oscars red carpet in March, Hollywood’s leading men including Bradley Cooper, Robert Downey Jr and Ryan Gosling, along with a slew of other actors, had opted out of wearing a tie – the quintessential detail, one would think, for a black tie event. Instead, shirt collars were unbuttoned and flapping in the breeze as the stars strode into Los Angeles’ Dolby Theatre.

They looked good. Chic, even. Some might argue this was more cocktail attire, where ties are optional, yet still meeting the night’s formal brief. Fashion historians might point out that black tie began as the less formal alternative to the more restrictive white tie, making it by nature more adaptable.

Notably, while Hollywood’s leading men ditched their ties, they added other decorative touches such as a brooch to elevate their suit into something suitable for the event. If you were to translate this into a corporate environment, the equivalent would be to add a pocket square.

But now for the paradox: the coolest time to wear a tie today is when you’re off the clock. During the most recent runways at Milan and New York, the accessory was still very much part of the collections. Case in point, Prada.

The Italian brand is a fairly good barometer for the next wave of menswear and rather than a suit, creative heads Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons adapted the tie into something more casual, pairing their denim edition with a double-denim shirt and jeans. It’s a look that gives the so-called Canadian tuxedo a run for its money.

In similar fashion, French brand Marine Serre also combined ties with denim and a trench – no blazer – and the entire look came printed with their signature crescent moon motif. Ferragamo went for ties in monochromatic leather in earthy tones. At Tommy Hilfiger, ties peeked out from under hoodies and cardigans, paired with oversized chinos and sneakers.

It was happening off the runways, too. The peacocks of Pitti Uomo, the annual men’s fashion trade show in Florence held in January, were seen sporting ties with some genuinely unexpected pairings. Like a flight suit, complete with leather bomber jacket. Not a look for everyone and perhaps a little tricky in an office scenario. Another, more accessible take was simply adding it under a knitted varsity sweater with a baseball cap.

So while ties are bowing out from formal scenarios, they are simultaneously finding their way back into weekend wardrobes. Meaning you might want to keep your half-windsor skills handy for now.