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104 126 116 Fall Fashion i ssue 104 A FASHIONABLE NEW YORK MOMENT For our annual fall fashion shoot, we photographed Janie McGraw Pierrepont, who recently launched a website with a curated collection of shoppable looks, at the iconic Peninsula Hotel on Fifth Avenue Produced & Written by brooke kelly Murray, PhotograPhed by Julie skarratt 116 DIANA’S EVERLASTING STYLE As ’80s fashion returns, we take a look back at some of the greatest moments of Diana, Princess of Wales, who perfectly illustrated of the time. Many of the her looks can still be worn today. by elizabeth Meigher 122
THE MASTERS OF COUTURE
An exhibition currently on display at the Museum at FIT focuses on the similarities and contrasts of Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga. by alexander hankin JANE BIRKIN & THE “BIRKIN” The iconic bag for the chicest of the chic—and the even more iconic woman it was named after. by hilary geary ross
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CONTENTS 132
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7294 CONTENTS C olumns 24 SOCIAL DIARY Another month of the social circuit. by DaviD PatriCk Columbia 72 HARRY BENSON Our photographer captures Kate Moss backstage in 1993. 74 TAKI Once upon a time the French Riviera was a must; now it’s alarming. by taki theoDoraCoPulos 76 FRESH FINDS Rounding up our favorite autumn finds. by brooke murray anD elizabeth meigher 80 FASHION J.McLaughlin travels to coastal Maine to photograph its September catalogue. 84 BOOKS Reviewing School Days , the prep school novel by Jonathan Galassi. by tony hall 88 FASHION Many Palm Beach trends of the past will appear again this fall. by Jayne Chase 92 OPEN HOUSE Rockledge Farm offers a retreat of another time in Bedford, New York. 94 WEDDINGS A roundup of our favorite weddings, from the Northeast to Napa Valley. by b rooke m 102 SOCIAL CALENDAR All of September’s fêtes and philanthropic happenings to look forward to. 140 YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST PYTs partying in the Hamptons. by b rooke m urray 144 SNAPSHOT Pierre Cardin is the subject of Flammarion’s new fashion book. by r obert J an J igian
questmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DAVID PATRICK C O LUMBIA DEPUTY EDITOR ELIZABETH MEIGHER ART PRODUCTIONDIRECTOR/MANAGER TYKISCHA JACOBS SENIOR EDITOR BROOKE KELLY MURRAY CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER ROBERT BENDER PHOTOGRAPHER-AT-LARGE JULIE SKARRATT SOCIETY EDITOR HI LARY GEARY CONTRIBUTING WRITERS HARRY BENSON KATE TAKIROBERTTONYGUBELMANNHALLALEXHITZJANJIGIANKARENKLOPPJAMESMACGUIREHAVENPELLCHUCKPFEIFERDAISYPRINCELIZSMITH(R.I.P.)THEODORACOPULOS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS HARRY BENSON CAPEHARTPATRICKCRISTINAMARYBILLYPHOTOGRAPHYFARRELLHILLIARDMACAYACUTTYMCGILLMCMULLANNICKMELEANNIEWATT
PUBLISHER AND C.E.O. S. CHRISTOPHER MEIGHER III ASSISTANT TO THE C.E.O. KATHLEEN SHERIDAN ACCOUNTING MANAGER LUWAY LU MARKETING SERVICES ROXANNE UNRATH ext . 106 PALM BEACH & MIAMI LINDA LANE SOPER 612.308.4159 DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL SALES JODY REISS 917.747.6431 CHICAGO TIMOTHY DERR 847.615.1921 HONG KONG BINA GUPTA 852.2868.1555 MILAN EMILIO ZERBONI 011.39.031.267.797 ARTS & CULTURE LISA ROSENBERG 917.576.8951 BOARD OF ADVISORS CRISTINA CONDON JED H. GARFIELD KIRK HENCKELS PAM WILLIAMANDREWHOWARDDANALIEBMANNKOCHLORBERSAUNDERSLIEZECKENDORF©QUESTMEDIA,LLC2022.Allrightsreserved.Vol.36,No9.Q uest—New York From The Inside is published monthly, 12 times a year. Yearly subscription rate: $96.00. Quest, 420 Madison Avenue, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10017. 646.840.3404 fax 646.840.3408. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Quest—New York From The Inside, 420 Madison Avenue, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10017. SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES Call 646.840.3404, ext. 106 Email:questmag.cominfo@questmag.com Major Estate. Historic District. Highest Standards of Construction. Guesthouse. Pool. Ponds. 10± Acres. Many Amenities. $4.950.000. Peter Klemm. 860.868.7313. Private Country Home. 5 Bedrooms. 8 Fireplaces. Exceptional Details. Many Amenities. Pool. Outdoor Entertainment Area. Western Exposure. 15.93± Acres. $2.649.900. Cleve Fuessenich. 860.567.5060. Lake Waramaug Victorian. 3 Bedrooms. Detached 3-car Garage with 1 Bedroom Apartment. Deep Water Dockage. Views. 5.43± Acres. $1.595.000. Peter Klemm. 860.868.7313. Wonderful Colonial. 4 Bedrooms. 2.5 Baths. 3 Fireplaces. Numerous Period Details. Excellent Location. Close to Litchfield Center & Amenities. 10± Pastoral Acres. $1.049.000. Graham Klemm. 860.868.7313. klemmrealestate.com Lakeville/Salisbury 860.435.6789 > Litchfield 860.567.5060 > New Preston 860.868.0505 > Roxbury 860.354.3263 > Sharon 860.364.5993 Washington Depot 860.868.7313 > Woodbury 203.263.4040 #1 Boutique Firm in Connecticut KLEMM REAL ESTATE Inc LITCHFIELD COUNTY’S PREMIER BROKERS Source: SmartMLS and Klemm Private Sales 1/1/93 – 8/10/22 • NEW YORK MASSACHUSETTSCITYYORKNEW NewLakeville/SalisburyitchfieldWashingtonDepotPrestonWoodbury★ ★★★ ★ KLEMM OFFICES LITCHFIELDCONNECTICUTCOUNTYLESSTHAN 2 HOURS FROM NYC 1stOPERATOR OFTHEYEAR
“START SPREADING THE NEWS”�� New York, New York is again on the rise! Written in 1977 for Liza Minelli to sing on screen (in a less than memorable Scorsese movie) and made famous by Francis Albert Sinatra’s baritone version ... this harmonic hom age to Quest’s favorite city still chillingly captures the marvel of our resurrected hometown! This year our September number cele brates the revitalized “city that doesn’t sleep” poised to pounce on a myriad of fresh cultural openings, civic events, artistic performanc es and perhaps a Subway World Series. Most importantly, it’s been buoyed by you, our reliable readers and dutiful stewards who have fiscally bootstrapped and spiritually willed New York’s renowned institutions into renewed relevance as the “king of the hill, on top of the heap.” Even the Rat Pack Chairman might have crooned: “Pass the word, Sammy & Dean: New York is back!” In September at Quest we focus on Fall Fashion, featuring the frocks, fads and flavors du jour from our favorite couturier houses and fine bauble emporiums. And we lean heavily on the intuitive tal ents of Senior Editor Brooke Kelly Murray, Photographer-at-Large Julie Skarratt, and Deputy Editor Elizabeth Meigher to direct our posh path and style sense. This year our discerning trio has pro duced a 12-page cover story that highlights the verve of a dozen design denizens, all beautifully worn by the effervescent Janie Pier repont a rising young swan herself! We also welcome to Quest the accomplished and respected voice of Jayne Chase, who has penned an encompassing chronicle of “Palm Beach style” from Dina Merrill and Rita Hayward to Karen Murray and Aerin Laud er the heritage of PB Style is here on full display. In our Snapshot column, we look back at Pierre Cardin’s total design dominance of the Swinging Sixties and Seventies. Our fashion savvy contributor Robert Janjigian reviews Flammarion’s new volume, Pierre Cardin: Making Fashion Modern, observing that Cardin viewed the advent of ready-to-wear as the savior of French fashion. Said Cardin: “Prêtà-porter will kill your name, but it saved me.” It certainly did! Elsewhere in this elegant issue, our highly decorated columnist Harry Benson shares a marvelously innocent (and near 30-yearold) image of Kate Moss when she was barely 19 and modeling in Paris for Johnny Galliano. Says Sir Harry: “Kate is one of the few who actually stops the reader from turning the page” (for which all editors and publishers remain eternally grateful!) And beginning on page 74, our much beloved scoundrel-columnist Taki bemoans the continued decline of the French Riviera most notably the Grimaldi’s very own Monte Carlo. Channeling his best Somerset Maugham imitation, Taki cannily calls it a “shabby place for notso-sunny people.”
But “sunny people” are again embracing a reopened New York, including charitable, communal and corporate institutions alike. When New Yorkers are tested, we’ve always found strength from within. Our team at Quest is equally proud of our New York City roots, and we’re continually bolstered by your generous patron age. That our magazine is actually read by the people in our pages is beyond rewarding, as you are the same individuals - of all gen erations - who sustain the soul of the City. As Sinatra’s ever pres ent bodyguard, the infamous Jilly Rizzo, was prone to utter in his signature Hobokenese: “the city so big they had to name it twice.” New York, New York ... it’s still one helluva town! ◆
22 QUEST Chris Meigher ON THE COVER: Janie McGraw Pierrepont hails a taxi on Fifth Avenue in New York wearing Oscar de la Renta’s Floral Tap Draped Skirt Cocktail Dress (available JulieHeels.andmarissacollections.com)atRalphLauren’sVelvetPhotographedbySkarratt. ��
IMAGESMEDIA/GETTYANDNEWSINDEPENDENT
Janie Pierrepont, Elizabeth Meigher, Brooke Murray, and John Edington behind the scenes at the fashion shoot; Julie Skarratt photographing Janie Pierrepont at The Peninsula; Harry Benson; Taki Theodoracopulos; Jane Birkin; Robert Janjigian.
Visit The New NikkiField.comTHEFIELD TEAM ADVANTAGE Sheila Ellis, Ashton Monroe, Amanda Field Jordan, Matthew Perceval, Mara Flash Blum, Ian Ament, Nikki FIeld, Andrew Harris, Jeanne Bucknam, Benjamin Pofcher, Patricia Wheatley, Daniel Chang & Silvia Wong, Camera Shy: Helen Marcos & Sara Marrache #1 MEGA SALES TEAM GLOBALLY Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. Recognized by the 2022 REALTrends & The Thousand Rankings, The Wall Street Journal WELCOME HOME TO MANHATTAN Photography by Sarah Merians © 2022 Sotheby’s International Realty (SIR) . All Rights Reserved. The SIR trademark is licensed and used with permission. Operated by SIR, Inc. The SIR network fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Real estate agents affiliated with SIR are independent contractor sales associates and are not employees of SIR.
SECOND RESCUE’S EVENT IN EAST HAMPTON
CHANCE ANIMAL
Antonella Lemos, Maria Lemos and Antonella Bertello
David Patrick Columbia NEW YORK SOCIAL DIARY
QUEST September issue has long been known in-house as the “Fashion” issue as, in deed, it is the month when the New York fashion in dustry traditionally shows its new designs for the au tumn and winter markets.
RICH/SOCIETYALLURE.COMROB
Nora MarinoJennifer Brooks, Georgina Bloomberg and Lisa Blanco
Back in the late 1960s, Ralph Rotnem , a senior executive at a long estab lished Wall Street broker age house, Harris, Upham & Company, made a wide ly publicized observation that women’s skirt lengths was an excellent indica tor of which direction the stock market would be tak ing the shorter the skirt, the higher the market, and vice versa. It was an amusing the ory and for many at the time taken quite seriously. A very pleasant, whitehaired man, Mr. Rotnem was born at the beginning of the 20th century when women’s skirts touched the floor, or at least covered the ankle which, dating back for centuries, was the natural and only length for any respectable and fash ionable woman. Mr. Rotnem had lived to see the skirts not only go above the ankle in the
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THEQUESTANNUAL
DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
David Lauren Dylan Lauren
Lisa Candido
Lisa Crawford and Kingsley Crawford Smith
Buying, Selling & Collecting Since 1868 The Greenleaf & Crosby Estate Collection
MCMULLANPATRICK
Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos and Tatiana Platt Kate Krone and Gary SimonetteNitin Gambhir and Elena Ulansky
26 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 1920s, but even far higher by the 1960s where they were raised to the point by 1970 where the “hot pants,” as they were called, went right up to the top of theHisthigh. theory a stock market soaring or declin ing what he was really seeing was a radical change in attitude for the first time in many centuries maybe even a thousand years or more. Although then there was Coco Chanel who by the 1920s put women in pants. A real first. Here in America, the month of September has always meant new clothes for most Americans, es pecially when we were kids starting a new school year. It was a measure of the natural changes in our lives and a major factor in one’s progress. Here in New York, which has long been home of an industry of fash ion, it has been a reflection of our annual progress. In the mid-1930s, a young woman from Peru, Indiana, Eleanor Lambert came to New York out of college with the intention of becoming a sculptress. In the harsh economic sit uation of the Depression, Miss Lambert, in need to support herself, had the idea of publicizing artists’ galleries in the then nine dai ly New garmenttheagedlerieswithnewspapers.YorkHersuccessthegalencourhertodosameformanu facturers (this was before individual fashion design ers had their names on labels). By 1940, because of the Second World War taking over life in Europe, including the business of French fashion designers, she imitated the French fashion promoters, and started The Best Dressed List, promoting American fashions, and ultimately theirShedesigners.drewattention to their work by naming prominent social women who were their custom ers. New York became an international fashion cap ital, and American society women became famous for their taste and their so cial positions that are still recognized to this day. Although times and fashion have changed as
Yan Assoun and Polina Proshkina
WATERMILL CENTER’S BENEFIT
Enrico Bruni and Pamela Dove Victoria Meakin, Lee Fryd and Lauren Leader
SUMMER
Susan Jacobson and Jan Juran Coco Chanel
Transform your vacation destination into your own slice of paradise. Owning a home in Palm Beach has never been more valuable. Contact The Koch Team to navigate the market with the Island’s proven real estate leaders. SCAN HERE TO PURCHASE THIS BRAND NEW HOME Ranked by sales volume by RealTrends as published in TheWallStreetJournal PALM BEACH3# FLORIDA6# NATIONWIDE12# Our sellers are more satisfied than the foodies at Le Bernardin. 1 Billion$ SOLD IN 2020 - 2021 OVER EXPERIENCE THE #THEKOCHEXPERIENCEDIFFERENCE Paulette Koch Broker Associate m 561.346.8639 | paulette.koch@corcoran.com #14 Nationwide by Wall Street Journal / RealTrends 2019 Equal Housing Opportunity. All information furnished regarding property for sale or rent or regarding financing is from sources deemedreliable, but Corcoran makes no warranty or representation as to the accuracy thereof. All property information is presented subjectto errors, omissions, price changes, changed property conditions, and withdrawal of the property from the market, without notice.All dimensions provided are approximate. To obtain exact dimensions, Corcoran advises you to hire a qualified architect or engineer. @ KochTeam Follow us on Instagram, Dana Koch Sales Associate m 561.379.7718 | dana.koch@corcoran.com #12 Nationwide by Wall Street Journal / RealTrends 2022 Prime Estate Area New Construction Featured Listing (above): 5BR | 6.5BA | $22M | WEB# 14866
Paulette Koch and David Brodsky Tina Scott Polsky and Amy Young Sharon Prolow and Olga Villaverde
28 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
dramatically a hundred years from the first radical change in design, Society still reflects change with the fashions, along with the technology, the life styles, the mores and the morals, we are indeed in a new world apparently far removed from what came beforeTheseus.past three years have been marked by the presence of COVID in the lives of most all of us as well as all over the world and fashion as we knew it appears to have stalled or maybe even stopped. And its effect has been notable everywhere, including the resorts from Palm Beach to Southampton to Europe. In Southampton, where the population in the area has increased by 30,000 over the past three sea sons, real estate for sum mer rentals has increased to figures far above the previous cost of purchase. A friend of mine rented a tiny two-bedroom cottage for the season in an area outside of Sag Harbor, for $50,000. There was a big house on the beach that rented (or so it was report ed) for $1 million for the season. The big numbers persuaded owners to take advantage by putting their houses up for rent and many took flight to Europe for the season. Although ironically, this year for the first time, many of the big (and highly expensive) properties went unrented. Nevertheless, the East End is packed and the par ties and the restaurants are turning away guests they are so busy. The private parties, promoting books, arts, and charities are also jamming the calendar. In Southampton, the hostesses filled up the cal endar. A perfect example was Peggy Siegel ’s birth day parties (yes, more than one), that set the tone. For those unfamiliar with the name, Peggy is famous in New York in prominent social circles as well as the entertainment business. She’s also famous out there in Hollywood in film production circles. A long time film publicist, well-known to many nonpros also because she stag es screenings for new films here in New York. Her screenings also might come with a dinner invitation post-screening attended by a prominent social crowd, as a kind of celebration of the finished product. By invitation only, of course. Originally, her 75th birthday gathering was to be on a Sunday. This birth day luncheon she orga nized is not the first time
PROMISE FUND OF FLORIDA’S RECEPTION IN PALM BEACH
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Bo and Elizabeth Boulenger
David and Donna Dodson Michael Zinner and Nancy Brinker Cynthia Friedman and Maureen Mann
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SOCIETYALLURE.COMMCMULLAN;PATRICK
with the number, she got a quote from one restaurant of That$50,000!was far, far beyond her checkbook. Reality set in. Starting over she came upon Samboo, a Japanese restaurant on Job’s Lane in Southampton. She learned they just weren’t open for lunch, but... Could they? Would they? Yes, for $35 a head. Sold! She invited 75 wom en and three or four men friends. The guest list a Who’s-Who, as it were, of the Hamptons women, as well as some weekend vis itors. The hostest with the mostest was in awe of the turnout. A great gift for the birthday girl. In the meantime, Sum mer in the city: the temp daytime was up in the mid90s with a Real Feel of 107
Ann Liguori and Scott VallaryBradford Rand Leesa Rowland and Larry Wohl
30 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA she’s “staged” a birthday celebration. She’s staged dinners honoring her age at 50, at 60, at 70 and now this at 75. There were two parties; lunch and dinner, with dif ferent lists. Originally the luncheon was to be host ed by Shahrzd Khayami in Southampton with nine others: Sara Ayres , Tory Burch , Cristina Cuomo , Jeanne Greenberg , Gigi Mortimer , Perri Peltz , Ariadne Platero , Rene Rockefeller and Kitty SherrillThose. hosts were The Tennis Girls who have been playing every Sunday in the summer in South ampton for the past 20 years. Peggy is the oldest (she said) and the organiz er.They have a pro , Marko , the beeners.beautifultheAssonsgivesSensation”“Croatianwhothemleseveryweek.aresult,womenareplayOrsoI’vetold.Their spiritual leader is Billie Jean King whose birthday present to Peggy is a dinner in New York with the Tennis Girls. After the plans were set, Mrs. Khayami took a trip to London where…she got COVID. On return, she had to drop out for obvi ous reasons. The cancella tion for the first lunch required a thequiringinlar60toShe’dreplacement.hopedinvite50ortoapopurestaurantthearea.Inaboutpossibility
CELEBRATING 75 YEARS OF FERRARI IN BRIDGEHAMPTON
Billie Jean King
Ali and Dina Lohan Chloe Melas and Brian Mazza Brent Martini
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Lucas Bravo and Lesley Manville Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos Gustaf Demarchelier and Tracy Yorks
32 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA degrees. Affects everything you do; cuts the speed, demands your patience. There were rainstorms predicted, which some times occurred but brief ly. We were right up there with the rest of the country dealing with the heat. Memorials; remembrances. I had lunch on a Tuesday at Sette Mezzo with Maria Cooper Janis , the wife of Byron Janis , the internationally famous classical pianist. She is also the daughter of the now immortal movie star Gary Cooper . Maria was born and grew up in Hollywood during the heyday of the American film industry.
Although she’s lived in New York most of her life, she recently made a trip out to Los Angeles for a double celebration hon oring her father and Carl Foreman who was the As sociate Producer and Os car ofscreenwriternominated High Noon. This year is the 70th anniver sary of the film for which Gary Cooper won his second Oscar for Best Actor. The event marked the opening of the Gary Coo per Retrospective and Ex hibition at the USC School of Cinematic Arts where the film will be on display to the public until Septem ber 30th. Cooper, in his will, left a large bequest forItscholarships.wasarealold Holly wood reunion. On Maria’s arrival there was a Corridoronart-filledgatheringFridayatthehometheWilshireof Lyn Rothman It was a re union best-sellingfor author Dr. Amanda Fore man (daughter of Carl) and hostess Lyn Rothman many years in the making.
Debbie Bancroft and Christie Brinkley Tara Westwood, Andrew Feldman and Nick Gregory Nacho Ramos and Whitney Fairchild
Maria Cooper Janis
BFA
Lyn used to look after the Foreman kids when the family lived in London and their parents were on loca tion for one of the films. Carl Foreman was writing and producing films there during his exile from this country during the black list years of the House of UnAmerican Committee (HUAC).Lynended up in Beverly Hills when she married mo tion picture executive and producer Mo Rothman , famous for persuading Charlie Chaplin to end his 12-year exile from America and return to receive the Lifetime Achievement Os car the same honor Gary
CINEMA SOCIETY’S SCREENING OF MRS. HARRIS GOES TO PARIS IN EAST HAMPTON
Cooper was awarded just weeks before his death. At dinner were Maria’s friend Jill Schary (daugh ter of MGM studio head Dore Schary ). She and Maria have known eacho ther since they were in third grade together.
LEWINRICHARDMCMULLAN;PATRICK
Emma Clurman and Richard De Rose
34 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
Ingrid and George Derick
Michele Evans and Jason NiemiTaylor Beckmann and Moko Fukuyama
Gary Cooper
Alice Aycock and Ned Smythe Laura LobdellDerek and Paige Patterson
LONGHOUSE RESERVE’S SUMMER BENEFIT IN EAST HAMPTON
Oth er guests included Michael Feinstein and Terrance Flannery , Tina Sinatra , Tim Zinnemann (son of High Noon ’s director Fred Zinnemann ), Katie Edel man Johnson , Tim Mendel son (co-trustee of the Eliz abeth Taylor Estate), Col onel Gerald York and wife Linda , Washington based grandson of the legendary Sergeant Alvin York whom Gary Cooper portrayed in his first Oscar-winning role in Sergeant York. In cidentally, both Oscars are on display at the USC Retrospec tive along with wardrobe and other authen tic items from Gary cludedattendeesography.extensiveCooper’sfilmOtherinartdealer Suzanne Zada , Broadway produc er Mary Cossette , Don Granger (producer of Mis sion Impossible films) and Bernie Bubman The next day Maria headed to the Art Deco Pantages Theater in Hol lywood for the first of two book signings for the delightful cof fee table book she wrote, Gary Cooper Off Camera: A Daughter Re members. The second signing was part of the prestigious Los Angeles Times Festival of Books at USC. It was fol lowed by a packed anni versary screening of High Noon. Maria has pledged 100% of sales to the USC Gary Cooper Endowed Fund for Student Support. The fund provides scholarships to qualified indigenous recipients who might not otherwise have the mon etary means to study at the country’s leading film school.Before completing her whirlwind hometown weekend in LA, Maria also got to introduce anoth er High Noon screening at the annual TCM Film Festival headquartered at the TCL Chinese Theater on Hollywood Boulevard, one of the city’s most-vis ited tourist attractions. It
In telling me about the weekend she recalled when her father had committed to doing High Noon he got a call from his friend Duke a.k.a John Wayne . Duke had heard about the deal and called his friend Coop to remind him that the screenwriter, Mr. Fore man had been investigated by HUAC for his alleged interest in the Communist Party back in the 1930s, and Duke told Coop that Foreman should withdraw from working on the film. On hearing his advice Coop pleasantly respond ed to Duke: “Well if Carl has to leave the film, then I have to leave the film too.” And of course he didn’t and the film was made. And, as it happened Gary Cooper was nominated for Best Actor in the film.He was on location working on an other film when it was announced that he was nominated for Best Actor; and so he called his friend Duke Wayne to tell him the news, and to ask if he would collect the Oscar for him. And so he did. Remembrances and Fate. On a Wednesday as many people know was the funeral of Ivana Trump , the first wife of Donald Trump and mother of his aboutJr.,Ivanka,children,DonaldandEric.HearingDonald’s former mother-in-law who when visiting her daughter and grandchildren, often still stayed at the White House, and at Mar-a-Lago, I was reminded of a matter I learned years ago from a friend who was with Iva na at the moment she got a phone call from Donald the night before he was to marry Marla Maples . He called Ivana to tell her that he would be back, but he had to marry because Mar la was pregnant and if she weren’t married, the child would be illegitimate. And he did not want that for his child, Tiffany. It so happened that at the time of that phone call, Ivana was having a very exciting relationship with a very handsome Italian man of the world, Gaeta no Roffredi . Divorce had NEW YORK ACADEMY OF ART’S PARTY ON SHELTER ISLAND
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36 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA was also the first time Ma ria got to visit her father’s hand and footprints placed in cement in the famous forecourt in 1943 when it was known as Grauman’s Chinese Theater.
John Wayne
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38 changedQUESTsome things in the lives of Ivana and Donald, but they remained very close to the very end. He often consulted her with matters at hand in his life before, during and after his Presidency. They had a good life together and to getherMeanwhileafterwards.back to Sum mer in the city. It has been very quiet: very few cars (and almost no trucks) moving along the avenues and streets by Friday late afternoons through Sun days.I’ve spent the summer staying close to home a choice which is sensible and practical since I do not possess a hut in the country, or something out by the sea. Mine’s by the park. Perhaps it’s the on set of my maturity I think about things like that these days but I really enjoy it. The river is just down the block from me and often sends its sea-fed breezes our way as well as giving everyone a chance to be in the sun near the water. You hear the foghorns of the tugs warning the motorboats and jet skis to get-outta-the way or else... Then there are the occasional sirens of ambu lances, or the fire trucks following up on what are often, thankfully, false alarms. Occasionally you might hear one of the mo torcycle society members revving it up just before they blast off down the avenue to the stop sign on East 79th Street. There are a couple of really beautiful, ful ly equipped Harleys, all black silver (one’s maroon) glistening at the curb side in the neighborhood. They’re modern art ex plained: masterpieces. I’ve never wanted one or even wanted to ride on one, let alone drive it, but the two I’m referring to are obvi ously top of the line and I can’t take my eyes off of them as I walk by. They’re like the two wheel version of a Rolls Royce. It’s called Luxury; that’s its real name to this timid admirer. Otherwise the avenue is very quiet in summer time, and often with very few cars at all passing by. In daylight, the sidewalks are usually populated by all kinds; residents, their guests, children, profes sionals, delivery people, construction workers; peo ple walking dogs; mothers/ fathers/nannies headed to the park with their little ones in strollers, on scoot ers and tiny two wheelers for the grown-up four year olds. We’re all ages around these parts, from newest to HONORING PRISCILLA PRESLEY AT THEATRE MEMPHIS IN TENNESSEE
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theTheeldest.neighborhood. A number of years ago there was a guy named Al Gor don who lived around the corner at 10 Gracie Square. Mr. Gordon was to these eyes a much older man, and indeed, he died 14 years ago at 107. I was first aware of him in the early ’90s when I first came back from California and was staying with my friend Beth DeWoody at 10 Gracie. Then in his early 90s, he looked like a much older man, yet he moved energeti cally like a man half his real age. Very tall probably sixfour, six-five long-legged and even at that highly ad vanced age, he had a strong, quick gait to his walk. On sight, you’d know he was a real go-getter. In fact he was famous on Wall Street. John Whitehead , once a head of Goldman Sachs, said of Mr. Gordon who for decades was head of Kidder Peabody, that he was also a famous business getter. In our neighborhood, how ever, he was famous as a jog ger. Major. He once ran all the way from 10 Gracie Square to LaGuardia Airport. Eight miles by highly trafficked roadway. He was then in his 70s or 80s. Or was it a jog home? I don’t know; I heard the story second hand al though it was well known among this man’s friends and neighbors. In other words he wasHeamazing.worked on Wall Street beginning in 1925 right out of Harvard Business School , and he lived most of those years in an apartment at 10 Gracie. Unlike a lot of his brethren who had their lim ousines awaiting their morn ing emergence from their buildings, Mr. Gordon pre ferred to walk down to the corner of 84th and East End Avenue, and hail a cab. I saw him do it when he was 100! We spoke a few times when he was in the Park taking a break, sitting on a bench by the river. Our brief conversations were about dogs (I was walking mine). We were not acquainted but I knew about him and the kind of man he was, mainly from his business as head of the board at 10 Gracie. For years when he held that office, it was his responsibility to vet new applicants who had bid on an apartment there. I took for granted that I was a guest in his building. He had standards; they were reason able and practical. 10 Gracie is famous on the Upper East Side, mainly be cause of its roster of big name occupants since it opened in the early 1930s. In those years there was no FDR Drive, but just shoreline, and 10 Gracie had piers for its owners’ pri AT THE LODGE IN MONTAUK
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PATRICK COLUMBIA 1 MAKING
TOBACKSPLASHSPLASHTILEFALLINLOVEWITH
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When we want to bring texture and color into a space, our design team looks to their favor ite material – tile. An endless amount of pat terns, shapes, and colors turn simple tiles into unexpected artistic designs. Backsplashes, as well as countertops, feature walls, and floors, become the stars of extraordinarily imagina tiveWhatspaces.isa backsplash? A backsplash refers to the kitchen wall material. It can span the entire wall, be a pop behind the range, or cover the area between the countertops and cabinets. It’s not only used as a decorative focal point for your kitchen design, it protects the walls from unsightly stains and marks that can be left behind from cooking. Tile is known for being durable, low maintenance, and easily sanitized, making it the perfect choice.
38 QUEST vate cabin cruisers. Jock Whitney, for ex ample, had an apartment there, and often traveled by water directly to it from Gre entree, his estate on Long Island Sound. As head of his building’s board, Mr. Gordon, serious man that he was, was also a serious vetter of appli cants. Because he began his day early, all interviews of potential residents took place at 8 in the morning. Whatever inconve nience that hour was for the applicant, applicants were in formed that 8 a.m. was the rule for Mr. Gordon and there were noItexceptions.sohappened back in the early 1970s that a forty-something Pete Peterson, then a famous Wall Street investment banker who had been appointed Secre tary of Commerce under Richard Nixon, made a bid on an apartment at 10 Gracie. The building has large apartments with ample space, and all overlooking the East River and the boroughs of Queens and Brooklyn, and Mr. Peterson and his then wife Sally had four or five children. However, when it came to Mr. Peterson being inter viewed, as he was living in Washington at the time, he put in a request to move his date with Al Gordon to a later hour since he’d be traveling by train up from Washington for it. His request was denied: 8 orAndnever.so, President Nixon’s Secretary of Commerce came up to New York the night before to make the meeting. Surely the two men knew or knew of each other as they were both “stars” in the financial
The three most popular tiles for a kitchen backsplash are ceramic, glass, and stone. Ce ramic tile is typically made from red or white clay and fired in a kiln. It is coated with a spe cial glaze that protects and seals it, and gives it its color and pattern. Glass tiles are made from thin pieces of glass with translucent glaze fired onto the back of each tile. They reflect the light to give your kitchen the ap pearance of being brighter and larger. Natural stone tile is quarried from around the world and comes in a variety of mineral substances such as marble, travertine, quartz, and gran ite. The variations in surface texture and color give it incomparable beauty. No matter your design style – rustic and cozy, or modern and sleek - you’re sure to find a tile you’ll fall in love with! -GW @gilwalshinteriorsInteriors
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Always referred to as Gar bo —“I vant to be alone,” whether she said it or not, was her famous quote at tributed to her. And she did go for long walks in public often daily, and for years here in New York. In real life Garbo lived mainly here in New York in a grand apartment on East 52nd Street and the River. The apartment was sold after her death (at 85) in 1990, and it is back on the mar
community. However, Al Gordon was 20 years older than Pete Peterson, and Pete Peterson was brought up knowing to re spectButthat.that was then and this is now.
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I’d guess that many of the occupants (which included Madame Chiang Kaishek ) of that exceptional apartment building on the river by a beautiful park and promenade, are no longer in residence either having moved or ascended elsewhere, 10 Gracie, how ever, remains a beautiful background for the walk in the park and on a beautiful weekend in Summer (and Spring and Fall). A cheer for the now. And while we’re on the subject of age and grace in history, I recently received a note from Peter Gregory about the
Polo matchClaudia Suica Greta Garbo
famously elusive Greta Garbo whom I had recently written about. To those under 40, or maybe 60, Garbo’s name is at most vaguely famil iar. But to more than two generations before, she was the most legendary as a movie star, who quit at her zenith and thereafter consciously stayed out of the limelight.
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Quest: Why did you choose these particular ingredients?
Quest: For what audience did you develop the Hope Night Body Butter?
Quest: What was your vision and goal upon launch?
GA: Hope Fragrance founder and owner Audrey Gruss’ vision was to create a body butter that balanced scent and efficacy in a beautiful manner. The woman we create our scents for is always on the go, whether it be in the boardroom, working
WE SAT DOWN with Glodine Anderson, Marketing Manager of Hope Fragrances to discuss the Hope Night Body Butter journey.
GA: Hope Night Body Butter was developed for the modern woman looking to pamper herself in a functional and luxurious way. After the launch of our popular Hope Night fragrance, we felt this was a natural extension of the line. We formulated Hope Night Body Butter to please the senses in every way.
GA: We were determined to source only the best ingredi ents for this body butter; shea butter and coconut oil are two efficacious moisturizers that provide ultimate hydra tion and skin softening properties. Additionally, we wanted a non-greasy formula to ensure that the application was smooth and light.
48 QUEST
Spotlight on Hope Night Body Butter, the luxurious and intoxicating body crème from Hope Fragrances. playing with her kids or enjoying quality time with her partner or herself. And so it was important to strike a balance between luxurious hydration with a beautiful, long-lasting scent that lasts from morning to night. We worked with a top skincare lab and went through many submissions of both fragrance level and cream esthetics. We wanted a cream that absorbs quickly and visibly softens the skin. After some intense testing, we landed on a formula that smells beautiful, feels luxurious on the skin and exceeds the high standards of our modern woman.
HOPEout, NIGHT BODY BUTTER
Quest: When did you decide to launch?
• Lather on the body butter on hands throughout the day after frequent washings. And also, at night when skin is parched for moisture. There is nothing I love more than applying the body butter to my neck and chest. The scent relaxes me and lingers comfortingly. And some mornings, my daughter goes into my closet and cuddles the night gown I wore the night before because the lingering scent “smells like mommy!” u Clockwise from top left: Audrey Gruss founded Hope Fragrances to raise awareness and resourc es to fight depression; Glodine Anderson, Marketing Manager of Hope Fragrances, and her daughter; Hope Night Body Butter. Opposite page: Hope Night Body Butter.
GA: We knew the most important thing in a body butter is the moisturization. The added benefit is the romantic, luxu rious scent and soft healthy-looking skin. The Body Butter is fragranced with Hope Night, developed by Pierre Negrin of Firmenich. It is a warm, sensuous fragrance with a blend of sophisticated amberish notes on a base of white flowers. Amber and Vanilla bring warmth and comfort with an enveloping scent that is so familiar. Patchouli and plum round out the perfume with head-turning and alluring essences. The fragrance is formu lated with two signature white floral notes – Lily-of-the-Valley and Gardenia that mesmerize and help uplift the senses.
GA: With the onset of the pandemic and people spending more time at home, we recognized there may be a heightened desire to seek special moments of self-care and relaxation. This is so important for mental health and well-being so our goals for the launch of the body butter aligned with the goals for Hope for Depression Research Foundation, our sister com pany to whom we donate all net profits. Our consumers are making a tangible contribution to this universal fight.
• Carve out time for self-care – read, mediate, call a friend, or spend an extra few minutes pampering yourself at the end of the day.
• Taking the time to cover your entire body with this most opulent cream is a true expression of self-care and self-love. It is like enveloping your entire body in a warm comforting hug. I apply the body butter all over, especially in rough areas of my feet and elbows.
INTERNATIONALFRAGRANCESHOPEOFCOURTESY
Quest: How did you go about creating the concept?
SEPTEMBER 2022 49
Hope Night Body Butter Wellness Tips from Glodine
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◆ DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 50
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“Dear David , Since you had some material about Greta Garbo, I thought you might enjoy this vignette. I was 14 years old and was staying in the South of France with my parents in August. They gave a din ner at a restaurant in the mountains above Beaulieu called Le Chèvre d’Or. I was included because the group would have been 13 without me and my mother was very superstitious.Thegroup included Elsa Maxwell, Greta Garbo and her lover and confidant George Schlee. First, Maxwell was so large that she didn’t have the stamina to climb the restaurant’s winding stairs. So Schlee and I put our hands to gether and carried her up the stairs. No easy task… Once we got upstairs, we were seated at a long table and I was seated opposite Garbo. At some point the conversa tion turned to breasts. Garbo announced that she had always had firm breasts and unbut toned her blouse and showed the entire table her breasts. I was, to say the least, speechless and believe that I am the last living person who had a full frontal view of the Divine Garbo. A memory of times past for your birthday! I look forward to seeing you soon and hope that you are having a great summer.
NORTHWELL HEALTH’S EVENING IN THE HAMPTONS
Brendan and Natalie O’Brien
—Peter” QUEST
ket for the first time. I’ve known many who ac tually knew her, but I nev er saw her. Many others I know who didn’t know her but did see her on the sidewalk, or waiting for the elevator at Bergdorf’s or dining rarely in public. She was also a Virgo and very particular about the matters that meant the most to her, namely her private life and her money. She made lots and saw to it that more was gained from it. She may have had a marriage when she was very, very young but it was over before the head of M-G-M, Louis B. Mayer in 1924 traveled to Europe to “see” the young actress and persuaded her to come to America. Where she remained for the rest of her life. Peter Gregory who knew of my interest in her sent me a personal story about being in her legendary presence. Peter needs no introduction to many New Yorkers both socially and in business. From the writer’s point of view, he comes from an interesting family that had great prominence in the world of business and international society. His mother and father both, I believe came from Russia long, long ago to New York. The following is Peter’s note:
Leah Cann 52 QUEST
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165 CROTON LAKE RD LISTED AT $8,250,000 63 WRIGHTS MILL RD LISTED AT $5,789,000 6 HALLOCK PL LISTED AT $3,995,000 35 WILSHIRE RD LISTED AT $4,490,000 EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE Real estate agents affiliated with Compass are independent contractor sales associates and are not employees of Compass. Equal Housing Opportunity. Compass is a licensed real estate broker located at 387 Main Street, Armonk, NY 10504. All information furnished regarding property for sale or rent or regarding financing is from sources deemed reliable, but Compass makes no warranty or representation as to the accuracy thereof. All property information is presented subject to errors, omissions, price changes, changed property conditions, and withdrawal of the property from the market, without notice. *Source: 2022 Real Trends The Thousand List & America’s Best Real Estate Professionals - Ranking Individual Agent by Volume - Based on 2021 Sales Volume. Recipient of the 2022 WSJ/ Real Trends ‘The Thousand’ Award Over $1B in Career Sales Representing the Finest of Northern Westchester, NY & Greenwich, CT #93 Agent Nationwide Compass Westchester 387 Main Street Armonk, NY 10504 Compass Connecticut 200 Greenwich Ave, 3rd FL Greenwich, CT 06830 Licensed Real Estate Salesperson NY: 914.469.9889 CT: Brian.Milton@compass.com203.900.4020 BRIANMILTONCOMPASS.COM @BrianPMilton NY/KATONAH NY/ARMONKNY/ARMONKCT/GREENWICH
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Historic Gold Coast Vanderbilt Mansion. 297 Mill Hill Road, Mill Neck. $25,000,000. Mary Ellen Cashman 917.710.2655
Loft-like 2,525 SF PH w multiple terrs. Boutique FS condo. 182 West 82nd Street, PHE. $8,500,000. Alexa Lambert 917.403.8819
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Superb CP, skyline vus. Boutique pre-war. 956 Fifth Avenue. (77th/5th Ave). $5,450,000. Gioia Zwack 646.644.4642
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DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 66 QUEST Jessica Joffe and Rory Satran BFA BERGDORF GOODMAN’S DINNER IN EAST HAMPTON Coco Baudelle
Katie
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68 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA COUNTYNEWPORTOFSOCIETYCORBETT/PRESERVATIONE.JOHN PRESERVATION SOCIETY OF NEWPORT COUNTY’S EVENING AT THE BREAKERS
Hugh Chisholm and Joan Tobin
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DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 70 QUEST BFA GUILD HALL’S SUMMER GALA IN EAST HAMPTON
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u 72 QUEST
HARRY BENSON IT
Stories of Kate being ‘accidentally’ discovered in 1988 at age 14 at JFK airport by Sarah Doukas, founder of Storm Management, echo the stories of Lana Turner being ser endipitously discovered in 1937 at age 15 sipping a soda at the Top Hat Malt Shop in Hollywood (that she was at Schwab’s Drugstore is sadly fiction). Yet, both are the sto ries that dreams are made of.
WHAT IS THERE TO say about Kate Moss that hasn’t already been said? She is a supermodel nonpareil. One sentence says it all.
When I photographed Kate Moss in Paris in the fall of 1993, she was there for some of her favorite designers, including John Galliano who was presenting his Spring 1994 Prêt-à-Porter collection. This was well before his drunken disasterous outburst in 2010 that cost him his job as creative director/designer for Dior. Galliano’s exile ended in 2014 with the help of Anna Wintour when he became the designer for Mason Margiela.
YESTERDAYLIKESEEMS
Kate Moss knew I was photographing her backstage that evening, and she stood very still as I approached. Never trying to hide from photographers, she seemed to quite casually take it for granted that she was a star, yet she was not haughty or pretentious in any way. The supermodel is still going strong at the age of 48. Let’s hope she continues modeling into her 80s like the fabulous Carmen. For Kate is one of the few who stops the viewer from turning the page or clicking another image on the computer, which is the ultimate goal of every photographer, designer, and magazine editor that I have ever known.
SEPTEMBER 2022 73 Kate Moss backstage at John Galliano’s Spring 1994 prêt-à-porter presentation in Paris, October 1993.
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TAKI 74 QUEST I NOW FIND RESORTS more fun out of season. Civilized tourists are as rare as an intelligent Hollywood movie, so local talent will do nicely, and to hell with the vulgar jet set. Gstaad is perfect in June and July, March and April, as are St. Moritz, the Ionian Islands, and Patmos, my next destination. Once upon a time the French Riviera was a must, but now it’s a sweaty hellhole, a shabby place for not-so-sunny people. Although I spent my youth on the Riv iera, I was two going on three years old in 1939—the time I would have chosen to be an adult had I been given the choice. Old hands used to tell me about that summer, the gayest (in the old sense of the word) on record. Back then Monte Carlo was still Ruritania-by-the-sea, and whis pers from late revelers about columns of troops between Cannes and Monaco had replaced the latest gossip. Even better were the tales of German spies being put ashore from submarines at Cap Martin and showing up at the casino in dinner jackets. But nothing could put a damper on the fevered atmosphere of fun by peo ple anxious to have a final fling before the imminent war broke out. On the day in August when the Soviet-Nazi pact was announced, pandemonium broke out on the Riviera. Hotels and villas emptied in hours. Officers and men on leave left within a half hour. The main Monaco casino struggled on, but most of the crou piers, as Frenchmen, were called to join their units. An international tennis tour nament was canceled, as were the boat races. The high-class tarts who usually ran with the high-stakes gamblers gathered at the Hotel de Paris and consoled each other. Monte Carlo had never experi enced this before, a townful of hookers and a few very rich but very old men and nothing else. Everything shut down; then came May 1940, and hectic attempts were made by Brits to leave the coast via Monte, including Somerset Maugham, and some ultimately reached England. The ax fell when Italy declared war on a rapidly collapsing France and the Port Hercules in Monte Carlo; Aristotle Socrates Onassis (inset). FROM CHARMING TO ALARMING
Italians walked from their border into Monaco. Even worse was the embar rassment when the Italian troops were cheered to the rafters from the Italians of Monaco. After a temporary shutdown the casino reopened and posted unprec edented profits as rich French Jews and other refugees reached the principality once Prince Louis declared Monaco a neutral sovereign state. This suited every one, including the eventual occupying German army surrounding Monaco.
SEPTEMBER 2022 75 TAKI
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Clockwise from top left: Prince Rainier III and Grace Kelly; Monte Carlo Casino; Nancy Cunard; William Somerset Maugham.
and was after young Taki. (I don’t swing that way so he was slightly disappointed.)
But I met Marie Laure and enjoyed myself speaking with her. A crushed automo bile by Cesar was in the entrance hall. (Levy committed suicide later on, but not because of young Taki.) And so it goes. Memories of grand times in grand places that are no longer fun. u For more Taki, visit takimag.com.
Twelve years after the end of the war I walked down to the Old Beach hotel and the Sporting Club with a gentleman who owned them, a certain Aristotle Socrates Onassis. He knew my dad and was nice to young Taki. Onassis became a house hold word during the early ’50s when he “bought” Monte Carlo. Actually what he did was become majority stockholder of the SBM, the company that controls the Monaco casino and its biggest hotels. Onassis wanted to keep Monte Carlo a tiny island of old-fashioned charm, but the ruling prince Rainier wanted a Las Vegas by the Med. Rainier, who looked just like any concierge in his principality, won by issuing more stock and turning the golden Greek into a minority hold er. The result seventy years later is the Grimaldis are among the richest families around, and Monte Carlo is an overbuilt, overcrowded cement hell out of a Hier onymus Bosch painting. St. Tropez was slow to follow the rest of the Riviera, but even there the unacceptably vulgar have prevailed. Rich Arabs and until this year rich Russians turned the once peaceful fishing village into a nightmare. Super yachts, as those monstrosities and super polluters are called, have turned the main strip of the harbor into a freak show, with masses of sweaty seminude voyeurs ogling fat slobs eating and drinking with their whores on board. Very ugly people own very ugly boats, my old daddy always said, but fortunately he never saw today’s “yacht owners.” Come to think of it, another great man long gone said exactly the same thing, one Gianni Agnelli. Oh dear, we are getting nostalgic yet again. I’ve just finished Anne De Courcy’s Paris life of Nancy Cunard, and memo ries of the French capital returned stron ger than ever. I’ve read many of De Courcy’s biographies, and this one was as good as any, except that I’ve never been attracted to nymphomaniacs, especially rich, bullying, left-wing nymphos like the Cunard dame. (The degree of difficulty in seduction is very important, at least to me.) What rang my bell was reading about the Noailles. Vicomte and Vicom tesse de Noailles were as upper-crust as it gets, and noted patrons of the arts. Marie Laure de Noailles had the artsiest salon in Paris and was close to Cocteau, Dali, Max Ernst, Man Ray, Picasso, and so on. The Noailles’ palatial house had Dalis, Goyas, and other greats hanging on its walls. This was in the ’20s. Around 1965, I was invited to the Noailles’ by Raoul Levy, the man who discovered Brigitte Bardot
Fresh FindsQUEST BY BROOKE MURRAY AND ELIZABETH MEIGHER SEPTEMBER IS here, and a busy social season in the city is upon us. For our Fashion Issue, we checked in with our favorite labels from Ralph Lauren to Graff for the best looks, jewelry, and accessories that will have you looking chic for any occasion this fall. Deck yourself with Graff’s emerald cut, pear shape and round diamond high jewelry Goddess of Divinity necklace (63.45 carats). Price upon request. More information at graff.com. Ondyn’s Big Bang Earrings in 14k yellow gold. Available for $26,000 marissacollections.com.at For a vivid party piece sure to stun, Oscar de la Renta’s Degrade Sequin Embroidered Pencil Skirt ($2,990) features ombre sequins of Mint to Rust, catching the light at every angle. Paired here with the Sequin-Embroidered Cropped Top in gold ($1,590). Available Mariaoscardelarenta.com.atOliver’sMichelleMiniShinyAlligatorTop-HandleBaginAlmond.$3,450atbergdorfgoodman.com. Manolo Blahnik’s Dajama booties in red. Available for $1,345 at manoloblahnik.com.
Stubbs & Wotton will be holding its annual Bespoke Sale through September 18th in store and online. Clients will receive 30% off on any custom orders placed, with an array of monograms and hundreds of motifs to select from. For more information, stubbsandwootton.com.visit
Hermès’s zipped parka with hood in black Toiloxydée ($6,150), jacquard turtleneck pullover in black wool with oxidised effect ($1,625), straight trousers in black stretch cotton drill ($940), and ankle boots in calfskin ($1,050). Available hermes.com.at
Treat yourself to a golf retreat in the Dominican Republic with Casa de Campo’s Unlimited Golf Packages, featuring rounds on The Links and Dye Fore. Starting at $1,259 per room, per night. More information at casadecampo.com.do.
Paolo Martorano Bespoke represents a new tradition in fine tailoring combining the highest standards of the artisanal tradition with an eye for information,style.contemporaryFormorevisitpaolostyle.com.
The Annual Calendar Reference 5205 was launched in 2010 as two white gold versions. In 2022, Patek Philippe revisits this model in an original and contemporary color. More information at wempe.com.
Like a splash of blazing fast hi-lite marker, the BMW X3M in Sao Paulo Yellow will get you noticed. For more information, call Braman Motorcars at 561.465.8293.
Where the sky meets the ocean and the sun comes up over water, the air is momentarily rippled with color. Rolex’s new YachtMaster 40 harnesses these fleeting instants so they can be admired on the wrist. The bezel, set with diamonds and sapphires in tones of blue, silver and pink, is inspired by the aurora borealis and the glow of dawn. More information at rolex.com.
Ruby and diamond three-stone ring, centering a cush ion-shaped natural Burmese ruby weighing 3.76 carats flanked by two near-colorless pear-shaped diamonds. $130,000 at greenleafcrosby.com. Accessorize with J.McLaughlin’s Tessare Leather Handbag in Dark Brown. Available at jmclaughlin.com.
Fresh Finds
78 QUEST Synthia Dillon’s Twig Bracelet in sterling silver with diamonds (set in 18k gold). Available at Jennifer Garrigues, Inc. in Palm beach and online at diolundesigns.com. Carolina carolinaherrera.com.Jumpsuit.StraplessHerrera’sEmbellished$6,990at
Asprey’s Purple Water Candle boasts a fresh citrus fragrance blend ed with undertones of spice. $90 at asprey.com.
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Part of the Ralph Lauren Welington collec tion, this crossbody bag is beautifully hand crafted by master artisans in Italy from a patchwork of considered materials and the season’s motifs, includ ing Glen plaid double-faced wool, wool herringbone, checked wool-and-cash mere twill, lamb suede, and corduroy. $2,250 at ralphlauren.com.
Receive a $500 Ocean House gift card with three nights or more in an Ocean House Signature Suite, in scenic Watch Hill, Rhode Island. Use code PKMSGP. See oceanhouseri.com or call 855.399.2812. Zimmermann’s Kaleidoscope Crochet Poncho ($995), Kaleidoscope Crochet Skirt ($1,600), Kaleidoscope Crochet Beanie ($295), and Texano Boots ($860). Available at zimmermann.com.
Strung with thousands of tube-shaped beryl stone beads that are connected by an oversized toggle, this one-of-a-kind necklace by Danish designer Gerda Lynggard is custom designed to Linda Horn specifications. $4,500. Call 212.772.1122 or visit LindaHorn.com.Fairfax & Favor’s Explorer boots are the chic’tickingorcomfyfeetthat’llall-weatherall-terrain,bootskeepyourwarm,dry,andcomerainshineallwhileyour‘countryboxes.$630atfairfaxandfavor.com. Travel in style with your furry friend with Paravel’s new Cabana Pet Carrier in Domino Black. Available at tourparavel.com.ElizabethGage’s 18k yellow and white gold tapered Templar ring, featuring a beautiful round old cut diamond. $26,875 elizabeth-gage.com.at
SEPTEMBERJ.MCLAUGHLIN’SSTYLE 80 QUEST
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J.MCLAUGHLIN WAS founded as an American sportswear brand in 1977 by brothers Jay and Kevin, and has since become a staple of preppy attire. Rooted in the tradition of work, sport, and play, the brand has evolved into a style, offering traditional and unpretentious apparel for everyday wear. Years before Brooklyn’s boom, Jay McLaughlin would purchase and renovate old Park Slope brownstones, using the proceeds to finance the founding of the brand. As a result, New York City holds a special place in the brand’s heart. Currently headquartered in Brooklyn, J.McLaughlin’s first brick-and-mortar shop was located in an Upper East Side enclave, and now the brand boasts 160 stores throughout the country—from metropolises like Dallas to suburban outposts like Palm Beach and Greenwich. For the September catalogue, J.McLaughlin ventured to coastal Maine to photograph its newest looks for fall at the Claremont Hotel in Desert Island—an area known for Acadia National Park and abundance of Hinckley Yachts. The collection, filled with colors reflective of the hues of autumn and inspired by the area, features the easy silhouettes for which the brand is so well known, luxe texture, layers perfect for the cooling weather, and exciting prints. Highlights include a Watson Velvet Jean and signature Artlette Ribbed Turtlenecks that come in an array of colors, flowing silk midi dresses, and a range of accessories—from an equestrian tote and suede bags to velvet loafers and knee-high boots.
J.McLaughlin’s September catalogue was photographed in coastal Maine and features printed silk midi dresses. Opposite page: Lounging on a Hinckley yacht in an Arlette Ribbed Turtleneck and Watson Velvet Jeans (left) and the Eamon Cashmere Sweater and Parker Pants (right).
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Mollie Silk Dress in Dark Blue/Marigold paired with ankle high suede boots; the September collection features a range of handbags inspired by the colors of Acadia National Park (inset). Opposite page, clockwise from above: Signature Arlette Ribbed Turtlenecks paired with Watson Velvet Jeans, and Concetta Suede Loafers and Luna Velvet Loafers; the Brynn Dress in Canelock (left); Durham Ruffle Top in Savannah in Black/Sand.
84 QUEST BY TONY HALL A STORY OF LOVE, PRIVILEGE, AND RESPONSIBILITY
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School Days , the prep school novel by Jonathan Galassi (Exeter 1967), unfolds across the final years of the WASP Ascendancy, a phrase coined by Joseph Alsop (Groton 1928) to characterize America’s dominant culture during the first half of the 20th century – the American Century, as Henry Luce (Hotchkiss 1916) branded it. Leverett (a cross between Exeter and Choate) was once among “the oldest, richest and most academically distin guished high schools in the country,” admitting mostly “the scions… of what passed for an American aristocracy.” By the time Sam Brandt returns to his old school to teach, some forty years later, the Establishment has lost its power (though not its appeal for “aspirational profession als”) and its moral compass. If, that is, it ever had one. Brandt is tasked with investigating an accusation of sexual abuse against the most popular teacher of his own era.
Left to right: Looking down at an elite New England boarding school in the 1960s; a boys high school swim team circa 1969. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Jonathan Galassi, a lifelong veteran of the publishing industrya published author, poet, former Guggenheim Fellow, and poetry editor of The Paris Review; School Days: A Novel by Jonathan Galassi (Other Press), $25 at am azon.com; three students seated together in 1969. E-YEARBOOK.COMEXPRESS;CAGIBIPAGE:OPPOSITEE-YEARBOOK.COM.
BOOKS
THE LATE 1960S WERE ANNI HORRIBILES for Saint Grottlesex. Long hair. Drugs. Rock n’ roll. Inky Clark. Clark, for those too young to have known him or even of him, was R. Inslee Clark, Jr., dean of admissions at Yale from 1965 to 1969. Not only did he open the gates to women, Clark appeared to prefer the graduates of pub lic schools with high SAT scores to legacies and the sons of traditional feeder schools. The less impressive among the latter suddenly found themselves in odd places like Lake Forest College or the University of North Carolina.
was there long hair, drugs, and rock n’ roll on campus, there was sex. And lots of it. That, at least, is what Brandt learns during his investigation, in the course of which he finds himself confronting his own, long-dor mant sexuality and recalling, wistfully, the (comparatively) chaste love he felt for his classmate Eddie. Had his mentor Theo Gibson, the teacher alleged to have behaved inappropriately, “gotten out of line… handsy” with an old boy now threatening legal action? Indeed, he had, and not just handsy—and with more than oneNoboy.less disturbing to Brandt is the discovery that the adminstration was fully aware of Theo’s transgressions and had, in fact, paid other victims hundreds of thousands of dollars to keep quiet. Leverett (like its real-life models) prides itself on its mission, that of shaping an American ruling class that will use its privileges and advantages for the good of the nation.Beneath the time-hallowed surfaces, though, Leverett is not much more than a pricey high school, one with a policy of open admission for the rich and one that shields pedophiles to keep the machine running. Its educational products, far from being the best and the brightest, are, for the most part, mediocrities. Had the school deceived the generations that had walked arm in arm across “the Oval, the great lawn” or deceived itself? Was it, in reality, a corrupt purveyor of undeserved privilege? Was it ever thus? Perhaps Old Ink was right. Time to begin anew. u
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Above, from left: A student plays the guitar in 1969; band members practicing in 1969.
BOOKSSEPTEMBER 2022 87
Clockwise from top: Students looking down a stairwell at an elite boarding school in the 1960s; a candid on-campus shot taken in 1969; author Jonathan Galassi.
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LIVING IN COLOR BY JAYNE CHASE
According to Karen Murray, statuesque owner of FIVESTORY (a clothing and accessories store with locations in New York and Palm Beach), whose customers rely heavily on her for both daytime and evening wardrobes, “Palm Beach will be all about color and in every category. At this point all different types of knitwear have bright fun color, as do florals with patterns and prints looking a bit bolder, larger, and even more abstract than ever before. From Balmain and Etro, to Jason Wu and Victoria Beckham, many brands will be seen at the most important events in town, day or night.” Across the street, at the
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FASHION
THE FASHIONABLE SET in Palm Beach have been following the chicest trends since Dina Merrill, Rita Hayward, and Lilly Pulitzer graced the society pages. Wind swept hair styles, oversized sunglasses, colorful shifts and sherbet-col ored, narrow-legged pants are a few of the iconic styles that made these international favorites the ones to watch year after year. In fact, their influ ence was so great, women today continue to harken back to those days in order to imitate what has become the true essence of Palm Beach style. This fall, count on many of these past trends to appear once again on the chicest of PB residents.
From above: Aerin Lauder outside of AERIN at 33 Via Mizner, Palm Beach, FL; inside AERIN Palm Beach. Opposite page: A colorful look from Catherine Prevost’s Spring 2022 collection.
Michelle Farmer Boutique, the store’s namesake owner agrees.
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From above: Outisde of FIVESTORY at 201 Royal Poinciana Way, Palm Beach, FL; a colorful look from dMN Paris’ Spring 2022 collection. Opposite page, from left: A silk strapless jumpsuit by Michelle Farmer; Casablanca top ($995) and wide-leg pants available at FIVESTORY Palm Beach 561.425.5809.
There is something for everybody this season and whether you are looking for a casual daytime item or an evening statement piece, the rich stylish heritage of Palm Beach will be on full fashionable display.
“This fall is about drama, glamour, and bright pops of color. Everyone is back out on the town and looking for pieces that make them feel beautiful and alive! Weddings, luncheons, and parties will be in full swing and our customers will be looking for this season’s items in pops of pink, bright greens, reds, metallics, and soft lavenders. One of our favorite pieces for the fall is a strapless silk jumpsuit which can be worn for daytime or sexy suiting—dressed up or down by switching up accessories and jewelry.” English transplant, designer Catherine Prevost, has created an off-the-shoulder dress named after The Colony Hotel, the “Colony Navy”, which given its color can be worn throughout the season. “It doubles as a kimono or overcoat and works with a variety of obi self-tie belts that can be purchased at the boutique.” And if that doesn’t give you enough reason to celebrate, stop by the beautiful AERIN boutique on Via Mizner.
Celebrating their 10th anniversary of the brand this fall, Aerin Lauder’s Palm Beach store will showcase this season’s “elevated simplicity with floral dresses, relaxed silhouettes, and a color palette that is soft and muted. These pretty pastels tie into the brand’s anniversary and heritage with history.”
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ROCKLEDGE FARM
JUST BEYOND BEDFORD’S many conveniences and lux uries is a retreat with the heart of another time and place. At Rockledge Farm, a private haven sweeping across 26 acres, the charm and wonder of a bygone era live in beautiful union with the modern day. Set slightly above the rest of the property, the main house, comprised of five bedrooms and seven baths, overlooks the entirety of this impressive estate. Western exposure and clever ly-set steel windows provide the perfect framing for breathtak ing sunsets, while intricately appointed interiors create an envi ronment brimming with richness and depth. The house features multiple stone fireplaces, a gourmet kitchen, an open-air porch, a three-floor elevator, gym and yoga room, and a wine cellar fit for vineyard-style tastings. A short walk from the main house will lead to Rockledge Farm’s vintage pool house. Originally built in 1931 and now restored to its former glory, the pool house holds special histor ical significance for the property. The three levels of the pool house, consisting of an upper deck, upper-level living area, and lower level changing area, are supremely situated for one-ofa-kind gatherings. A dramatic rooftop area on the upper deck crowns the house with exceptional open space with seating beside a wood-burning brick fireplace.
The farm’s multiple outbuildings, sprinkled throughout the property, present unique privacy and recreation opportunities for staff or guests. They include a two-bedroom staff house, a three-bedroom guest house, and a heated barn featuring a golf simulator.Theproperty also features an outdoor pool and a Har-Tru tennis court surrounded by greenery and a group of Alpacas and Llamas that roam within a gated area the estate’s most col orful residents. Rockledge Farm is located near Bedford’s best restaurants, lush parks, and highly rated schools. The location feels like a distant getaway, but is conveniently 45 minutes from New York City. u Rockledge Farm, currently for sale, is located at 617 Croton Lake Road in Bedford, New York. Price upon request. For more information, contact Brian Milton at 914.469.9889 or brian.milton@compass.com.
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Clockwise from above: A spacious living room; a unique open-air room in the main house blurs the lines between indoors and outdoors; a rear view of the property, the outdoor pool, and vintage pool house; a view from the pool house. Opposite page: The main house at Rockledge Farm.
Ashley Ludlow & Austin Whitney McGurk M ay 28, 2022 j P al M B each , F lorida P hotogra Phed By J essica l orren P hotogra Phy Wedding Season BY BROOKE MURRAY
Ashley and Whitney were married before 175 guests at The Church of Bethesda-by-the-Sea. The bride donned a gown by Reem Acra and her father, George Eugene Ludlow, walked her down the aisle wearing a Society of Colonial Wars Decoration that belonged to the groom’s late father. Whitney also sported his father’s Cartier watch, which was gifted to him by his mother at their Palm Beach wedding in 1974. After the service, guests were invited to a reception at a private club, where the couple shared their first dance to “That’s How Strong My Love Is” by Otis Redding. The newlyweds traveled to Harbour Island for their honeymoon immediately after the celebrations, and to Turkey in July.
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00 QUEST Jacqueline Isabella di Galoma & Jonathan Craig Binetti July 23, 2022 j Napa Valley, CaliforNia p hotographed by a ma Nda W ei p hotography 96 QUEST
Jackie, who has always loved horses, cared for miniature ponies in her backyard as a girl. Her parents surprised her with a miniature pony during the cocktail hour, which was dressed in a bridal wreath and “Just Married” sign. Later on, a reception was held at the resort’s Glasshouse Barn with dinner, dancing, and cake by Flour & Bloom Cakes. The couple shared their first dance to “L-O-V-E” by Nat King Cole. After the weekend, the newlyweds spent a few days relaxing in Napa Valley and Healdsburg, and will travel to the French Polynesia this fall for their honeymoon.
Jackie and Jon were married before 120 guests in the Cutting Garden at the new Stanly Ranch. The bride donned a gown by Carolina Herrera and her father, Thomas Lawrence di Galoma, walked her down the aisle.
Caroline Hollingsworth Baker & William Schickhaus Smith April 30, 2022 j Boston, MA ssAchusetts photogrA phed By newB ury photogrAphs 98 QUEST
Caroline and William were married before 165 guests at the Emmanuel Episcopal Church of Boston. The bride donned a gown by Carolina Herrera and a veil gifted to her by Wes Gordon. Her uncle, the Right Reverend Mark Hollingsworth, Jr., the Bishop of Ohio, officiated the ceremony. Her father, William R. Baker, Jr., walked her down the aisle. She carried a bouquet of roses, sweet peas, and ranunculus. After the service, a reception was held at a nearby social club in Back Bay with dinner, dancing, and cake by Montilios. The couple shared their first dance to “Coming Home” by Leon Bridges. After the weekend, the newlyweds departed for their honeymoon in London, where they attended the Henley Royal Regatta, and France.
Mikaela Rosamond Bee & Ashten Murel Stringer J une 4, 2022 j B olton l anding , n ew Y ork P hotogra Phed BY J oshua B orsodY
In an intimate ceremony, Mikaela and Ashten were married on Crown Island, her family’s summer home on Lake George, overlooking the Adirondack Mountains. The bride donned a Boho-inspired dress paired with a flower crown reflective of the rustic surroundings. Her father, Kenneth MacRobert Bee, escorted her to the service in a golf cart, and their dog, Kali, served as flower girl. Later on, guests enjoyed a cocktail reception, where a birch bark decorated cake was served, and watched the newlyweds share their first dance to “A Groovy Kind of Love” by Phil Collins. A rehearsal dinner and farewell brunch were held at the nearby Marcella Seimbrich Villa. The couple will travel to Spain and Portugal for their honeymoon in 2023. u
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EAST11 COAST OPEN Greenwich Polo Club’s East Coast Open Final will take place at 3 p.m., and gates will open at 1
On October 7th, Nashville Ballet will kick off its 2022-2023 season with Cinderella. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit nashvilleballet.com.
The Newport International Boat Show (NIBS), one of the largest and most prestigious boat shows in the country, spans over thir teen acres of historic downtown Newport, Rhode Island, and will take place through September 18th. For more newportboatshow.com.information, LANG21 LANG & FRIENDS
Lang Lang International Music Foundation will hold its Fall Gala, featuring Lang Lang and renowned musical artists in per formance, at 6:30 p.m. The eve ning includes a cocktail reception, p.m. Nestled in the beautiful backcountry of Connecticut, Greenwich Polo Club was estab lished in 1981 and is recognized as one of the elite high-goal polo venues in the world. For more information, greenwichpoloclub.com.visit
Dye Fore, and The Links. The format is a 54 hole Individual Stroke Play competition using the Stableford scoring system. Men and women will compete in flights by index and age, and country’s who have at least two players are eligible to participate in the Country’s Cup! For more information, visit casadecampo.com.do.
The Couture Council of The Museum at FIT will honor Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative direc tor of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories collections for Dior, with its 2022 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion at a luncheon at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center in New York City. Heralding the arrival of New York Fashion Week, the annual fall event benefits MFIT, New York’s only museum dedicated exclu sively to the art of fashion. For more information, visit fitnyc.edu.
CASA14 DE CAMPO GOLF OPEN Casa de Campo Resort & Villas will host its 41st Casa de Campo Open through September 18th. The Championship will be held on all three of the world-famous golf courses: Teeth of the Dog,
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On September 9th, New York Fashion Week will take place through September 14th. For more information and the full schedule, visit cfda.com.
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New York Fashion Week runway shows will take place through September 14th. For more information and the full schedule, visit cfda.com.
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Celebrate Opening Night in style with cocktails before curtain and a post-performance dinner with Maestro Carlo Rizzi and the cast, which also features soprano Janai Brugger, tenor Matthew Polenzani, mezzosoprano Ekaterina Gubanova, and bass Michele Pertusi. For more information, visit metopera.org.
NASHVILLE7 BALLET Nashville Ballet’s 2022-2023 season will kick off with the premiere of Paul Vasterling’s sparkling rendition of Cinderella , world-premiere works by Tony and Emmy nashvilleballet.com.ForviolinAllisonNashvillewithnewchoreographers,award-winningplusbrand-livemusicalcollaborationstheNashvilleSymphony,localsMorgxnandRussell,andinternationalprodigyYvetteKraft.moreinformation,visit
PRO22 BONO GALA Pro Bono Parnership will host its 2022 Annual Gala Celebration at Cipriani Midtown. Pro Bono Partnership is a nonprofit 501(c) (3) organization that provides free business and transactional legal help to other nonprofits serving underrepresented people or enhancing the quality of life in neighborhoods in Connecticut, New Jersey, and New York. The Partnership mobilizes hundreds of attorneys from major corporations and law firms to donate their time and expertise on behalf of our nonprofit clients, enhancing their ability to improve conditions in their communities. For more information, visit probonopartner.com.
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The Metropolitan Opera will hold its 2022 Opening Night Gala at 6 p.m. The 2022–23 season gets off to a rousing start with the
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dinner and program. All proceeds will benefit the music educa tion programs of the Lang Lang International Music Foundation. For more information and to pur chase tickets, call 212.518.7175 or visit langlangfoundation.org.
Met premiere of Cherubini’s thrilling masterpiece, in a vivid new staging by David McVicar that stars soprano Sondra Radvanovsky in the title role.
The culminating event in Save Venice’s 2021–2022 series of global celebrations honoring the 50th Anniversary, Il Gran Gala a Venezia will take place through October 10th, with an optional Biennale program on October 11th. For more information, visit savevenice.org.
The 30th Annual Hamptons International Film Festival will take place through October 16th. For more information, visit hamptonsfilmfest.org.
On September 11th, Greenwich Polo Club’s East Coast Open Final will take place at 3 p.m. For more information, visit greenwichpoloclub.com.
FALL28 FASHION GALA New York City Ballet will host its Fall Fashion Gala. Since its incep tion in 2012, this beloved event has paired acclaimed choreogra phers with some of the fashion world’s most exciting talents and, in the process, has led to the creation of nearly 30 ballets that have reinvigorated the artform.
On October 7th, the final event in Save Venice’s 2021-2022 series of global celebrations, Il Gran Gala a Venezia will take place through October 10th. For more information, visit savevenice.org.
This year’s event will honor New York City Ballet Vice Chair Sarah Jessica Parker for her vision and leadership of the Fall Fashion Gala, along with a decade of Fall Fashion Gala designers and cho reographers for their exceptional creations. For more information, visit nycballet.com.
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New York Landmarks Preservation Foundation will hold its annu al Lunch at a Landmark at the Metropolitan Club. For more information, visit nylpf.org.
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FASHIONABLENEWYORKMOMENT & WRITTEN BY BROOKE KELLY MURRAY
PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIE SKARRATT HAIR BY ERDOGAN CELIK, PAULO LANFREDI SALON MAKEUP BY JOHN EDINGTON
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Janie in Ralph Lauren Collection’s Jodhpurs ($1,590), Shearling Coat ($5,990), Long Sleeve Fairisle Sweater ($1,490), Stacked RL Belt ($495), and Leather Boots ($1,500). She holds Ralph Lauren Collection’s Welington Doctor Bag ($3,290). For jewelry, she wears Wempe’s BY KIM Sensual Cosmos earrings and Helioro ring in 18k rose gold over the Helioro ring in 18k white gold (left hand), and two BY KIM Blu rings stacked (right hand). Opposite page: Janie in The Peninsula Hotel’s rooftop bar, Salon de Ning, wearing Alexander Mcqueen’s Graffiti Pleated Skirt in Electric Blue/ black ($1,450), Wool Drape Fair Isle Jumper in Ivory/black ($ 1,840), and Punk Boots in black/silver ($1,190). On her ears, she wears Wempe’s BY KIM Sensual Cocoon earrings in 18k rose gold with brilliant-cut diamonds.
FASHION HAS always been a passion for Janie Pierrepont. After graduating from Wake Forest University in 2016, Janie earned a certification in fashion entrepreneurship from Parsons and served as Head of Operations at Soludos. She now runs her recently launched website, janiepierrepont.com, which features a curated selection of shoppable looks that reflect her classic style. For our annual fall fashion shoot, we photographed Janie at the iconic Peninsula Hotel on Fifth Avenue at 55th Street. Known as “New York’s most glamorous address,” the hotel is located within steps of the city’s best shopping, Central Park, and Broadway theatres. After an unprecedented couple of years in the travel and leisure industry, the Peninsula brand’s focus in 2022 is its “Life Lived Best” initiative, an extensive array of new wellness resources designed to enhance the physical, mental, and nutritional health of guests. Currently available at The Peninsula New York is the Fifth Avenue Wellness Retreat package, which includes a spa gift certificate, bath ritual, a Subtle Energies sleep patch, signature sleep tea, and more when booking one of its luxurious suites.
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Arriving at The Peninsula Hotel in Carolina Herrera’s Embellished Mini Shift Dress with Dramatic Side Bow ($5,990), Flowery by Wem pe diamond statement earrings in 18k white gold, and shoes by Manolo Blahnik. Opposite page: The entrance of The Peninsula New York.
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Dancing in a Deluxe Suite at The Peninsula Hotel. Janie wears Carolina Herrera’s Dramatic Ruffle Bolero Jacket ($2,790) and Criss Cross Wrap Waist Stirrup Skinny Pants ($990), and Graff’s diamond earrings (15.26 carats) set in white gold, and 11.28 carat emerald cut diamond Promise ring set in platinum.
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Janie in a Deluxe Suite at The Peninsula Hotel wearing Ralph Lauren Collection’s Tulle Dress ($5,990), Shearling Jacket ($5,490), and Suede Boots ($1,690). She also wears Wempe’s BY KIM Spotlight brilliant-cut diamond earrings and Flowery by Wempe necklace in 18k white gold. On her left wrist, she wears Graff’s Tribal Collection diamond bracelet (12.68 carats) set in white gold. On her right wrist, she wears Graff’s ruby and diamond bracelet (rubies 21.39 carats, diamonds 10.50 carats), set in white gold. Opposite page: Janie posing in The Peninsula Hotel’s Salon de Ning. She wears Oscar de la Renta’s Mixed-Media Tiered Fit-&Flare Halter Dress ($,4990), and Spotlight by Wempe brilliant-cut diamond earrings, bracelet, and ring, all in 18k white gold.
Janie at The Peninsula’s al fresco rooftop bar, Terrace de Ning, wearing Zimmermann’s Kaleidoscope Midi Shirt Dress ($850), and Wempe’s BY KIM Sensual Cocoon earrings, necklace, ring, and bracelet, all in 18k rose gold with brilliant-cut diamonds. Beside her is Alexander McQueen’s Bow in Tan bag ($2,290). Inset: Getting ready and decked in diamonds. Janie wears Graff’s diamond necklace (53.64 carats) and earrings (15.26 carats) set in white gold. She also wears Graff’s 11.28 carat emerald cut diamond Promise ring, and diamond bracelets stacked on her wrist (29.06 carats, above, and 19.20 carats, below), both set in white gold. Opposite page: Janie in a Deluxe Suite at The Peninsula, wearing Ralph Lauren Collection’s Velvet Dress ($2,690), Leather Belt ($250), Velvet Heels ($895), and holding the Leather Welington Shoulder Bag ($1,690). For jewelry, she wears Wempe’s BY KIM Sensual Seventies earrings, ring, and bracelet, all in 18k rose gold with brilliant-cut diamonds.
Janie in the lobby of The Peninsula in Lela Rose’s Strapless Floral Gown ($5,490), available at Marissa Collections boutiques or marissacollections.com. She also wears Spotlight by Wempe’s earrings, rings, and bracelet, all in 18k white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds. Opposite page: Janie hails a taxi on Fifth Avenue in Oscar de la Renta’s Flo ral Tap Draped Skirt Cocktail Dress ($4,290), available at Marissa Collections boutiques or marissacollections.com, and Ralph Lauren Collection’s Velvet Heels ($895). She also wears Spotlight by Wempe’s earrings and bracelet, and Multisize by Wempe’s ring, all in 18k rose gold with brilliant-cut diamonds.
When American prep sailed in on the wave of The Official Preppy Handbook, polo shirts and penny loafers had become the building blocks of countless women’s wardrobes—along with oversized blazers, tapered jeans that could be tucked into cowboy boots, puffed-sleeves, power suits by day, and sparkling sequins by night. Diana’s rise to prominence during the 1980s included embracing some of the decade’s key trends. On the heels of The Official Preppy Handbook, released in 1980, England produced a handbook of its own in 1982, focusing on the UK’s stereotypical upper-middle class “Sloane Ranger”. Transpose Newport or Martha’s Vineyard for the Cotswolds or somewhere in Surrey, and the prototypical British “Sloane” was very much a manifestation of the American prepster—so hinted Ann Barr and Peter York in the title of their renowned book, The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook. Barr, then features editor of Harper’s and Queen, and York, an aspiring writer and astute observer of social groups and behaviors, were focused on the lifestyles of upper-middle class Londoners who populated Chelsea (hence the moniker, after Chelsea’s Sloane Square). Female Sloanes, often involved in equestrian activities, were frequently spotted in 1970s London wearing silk scarves wrapped around the back of the heads and distinctively tied between the tip of their chins and bottom lips—masking the lower part of their faces— warranting the “Lone Ranger” reference. Lady Diana Spencer embodied a Sloane Ranger to a T, with her Barbour jackets, printed Fair Isle sweaters, Peter Pan collars, and pearls paired effortlessly with wellies—stylish without being radical, clever perhaps but not overly intellectual, pretty but not strikingly beautiful, and modern enough to appreciate bands like Duran Duran (and perhaps even dance along to the beat)...
And if a Sloane’s romantic notion of fulfilling manifest destiny should culminate in marrying “within the club”, then Diana’s saying “I do” to a prince won that race by a landslide. As ’80s fashion returns, here’s a look back at some of Diana’s greatest moments, many of which are still available to this day.
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THE ’80S ARE BACK and no one better illustrated ’80s-era style than Diana, Princess of Wales. Diana was not afraid to break style boundaries, and she did it well—creating trends that were praised and imitated by her champions worldwide (no one will ever forget the time she wore a choker given to her by Queen Elizabeth II as a headdress in Melbourne in 1985).
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$2,800 at marissacollections.com 2. RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION Wool Crewneck Sweater, $690 at ralphlauren.com VERSACE Medusa Acetate Butterfly Sunglasses in transparent pink, $300 at neimanmarcus.com Draped Puff-Sleeve Blouse, $295 at neimanmarcus.com DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES wearing a puff-sleeved blouse cinched at the waist with oversized sunglasses at a polo match in Windsor, 1983 6. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES wearing a red sweater daped casually over her shoulders, transparent pink sunglasses, gold earrings, and a white puff sleeve blouse at polo in 1983.
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00 QUEST IMAGESGAVIN/MIRRORPIX/GETTYKENT1. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES wearing a pink Ralph Lauren button down shirt with rolled up sleeves, black patent leather loafers, and high-waisted, tapered black jeans during a three-day visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina, 1997 2. POLO RALPH LAUREN Knit Cotton Oxford Shirt in Pink, $98.50 at ralphlauren.com 3. TOD’S Gommino Black Patent Leather Driving Shoes, $595 at tods.com 4. RE/DONE Stove Pipe Jeans, $265 at fivestoryny.com 5. CARTIER Tank Louis Cartier watch, large model, in 18k gold with black alligator-skin strap, $10,700 at wempe.com or dial 212.397.900 for more information. Launched over 100 years ago, the Tank Louis remains an iconic staple to this day. 1 2 3 4 5
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3. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES wearing a sparkling, floor-length peach dress paired with a silver clutch to a charity performace of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s Starlight Express at the Apollo Victoria theatre in London, 1984 4. ANYA HINDMARCH Neeson Tassel Clutch in Silver, $650 at marissacollections.com 5. TEMPERLEY LONDON Celestial Irridescent Lilac Sequin Gown, $2,585 at fivestoryny.com.
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1. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES sweater at Guards Polo Club in Windsor, 1983 2. RAY BAN ‘80s style number RB4162 in Light Havana, $89 at ray-ban. com
2. POLO RALPH LAUREN Selene Leather Cowboy Boot in chocolate brown, $1,500 at ralphlauren.com
3. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES arriving at Sarajevo airport ahead of at two-day visit, wearing a crisp blue shirt and navy blazer, 1997 4. RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION Camden Wool Crepe Jacket in navy, $1,990 at ralphlauren.com.
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120 QUEST 2 3 41. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES sporting a sweatshirt (with the British Lung Foundation logo on the front), vintage washed Levi’s tucked into cowboy boots, an oversized menswear blazer, and a baseball cap while a young Prince William leads the way wearing a classic waxed Barbour jacket, jeans, and velcro sneakers at Guards Polo Club, 1983
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wearing a Miss Antionette suit and John Boyd hat BEARD Kamila Reversible Jacket, $274 at veronicabeard.com DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES waves goodbye as she departs for her honeymoon with new husband, Prince Charles. The 20-year-old newlywed added an oversized ivory jacket and one of her iconic chokers to her long-sleeved, floral dress LAPOINTE elongated doublebreasted coat in cream, $2,150 at marissacollections.com LUISA BECCARIA Floral 3/4 Sleeve Silk Chiffon Maxi Dress, $3,450 at fivestoryny.com.
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LAURENCE GRAFF OBE established his namesake company in London in 1960, driven by the pursuit of craft, attention to detail, and devotion to beauty. Over half a century, Graff has evolved into a global jewelry brand defined by innovation, with generations of the family personally selecting every stone and overseeing every step of its journey. Offering some of the world’s rarest gemstones, the jeweler is known to have handled more important diamonds than any other diamantaire of our time. And its clients are as important to the brand as its beloved jewels. “[Our clients] buy what we love. We love our
Graff’s sapphire and diamond Goddess of Divinity high jewelry necklace, set with an unheated 109.35 carat cushion cut Sri Lankan sapphire (diamonds 72.50 carats).
The brand most recently debuted its new “Graffabulous” High Jewelry Collection. One of the highlights is a magnificent Goddess of Divinity necklace showcasing an incredible antique sapphire. A deep stone with a wonderful, rich hue, the design is entirely focused on its star—an extremely rare unheated 109.35 carat cushion cut Sri Lankan sapphire, remarkable in both size and quality. To accommodate the depth of theGRAFFOFCOURTESY
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From above: The Goddess of the Waterfall emerald bead, emerald and diamond high jewelry necklace (emerald beads 151.21 carats, emeralds 18.33 carats, diamonds 54.49 carats); Goddess of the Sea 38.13 carat ExEx D flawless cushion cut diamond high jewelry ring (43.51 carats).
flawless cushion cut diamond ring proves to be exceptional in every way. Presented in a minimalist four-claw setting, the single-stone ring showcases a gem that distils the power of nature into 38 carats of pure diamond perfection. Certified as Type IIa—the most chemically pure of all diamonds—with excellent polish and symmetry, it is rare to find a diamond this perfect, even rarer still to propose that it be showcased in a single stone ring, with no further adornment.
General Manager Sam Sherry in CAD worked with a 3D scan of the sapphire to create a mount that would hold the stone securely but minimally, removing any superfluous metal.
extraordinary sapphire and to balance out its size, Graff’s designers experimented with different surrounds to create a frame around the center stone. With a cushion cut, particularly of this size, it appears almost rectangular when viewed from a distance. To maintain the beauty of its rounded shape, the designers experimented with the whole spectrum of diamond shapes, finding the perfect solution in the emerald cut, which created a “step” down to the diamond necklace while simultaneously offering the sapphire up for show. Despite the weight of the sapphire and diamonds, it’s not a heavy jewel.
Within all chapters, Graff’s spirit of ingenuity is present through a group of high jewelry rings that experiment with volume, texture, and form, with custom-cut diamonds bursting outwards from statement center stone. One of the rings reflects sunshine rays, with tapered baguette cut diamonds emanating outwards from a coveted central pear shaped yellow diamond. Yellow diamonds are unique in the way they are cut, with no two the same, and Graff is the only jewelry house in the world to have access to such a wide range of the most sought-after yellow diamonds.
The collection also includes a breathtaking Goddess of the Waterfall necklace, featuring emerald beads that alternate with clusters of round diamonds to frame a counterpart faceted emerald and diamond motif. Together, they form a unique pattern of color, texture, and scintillation that ripples outwards from the central motif, highlighting the individual beauty of the different stones and cuts.
From left: Graff’s 5.02 carat pear shape Fancy Yellow diamond ring (white diamonds 4.06 carats); custom-cut diamonds burst outwards from statement center stones in a group of Graff’s high jewelry rings.
In a separate chapter, Graff’s iconic Goddess of the Sea
u For more information and to view the full high jewelry collection, visit graff.com.
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Cristóbal Balenciaga at work in Paris, 1968. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A model wearing a Balenciaga orange coat in Paris, 1954; Christian Dior in his studio with one of his models; Dior’s brown silk taffeta cocktail dress, 1955 (left), and Balenciaga’s blue silk taffeta evening dress, 1954 (right), on display at the Museum at FIT.
The exhibition focuses on the similarities and contrasts of Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga. One of the most strik ing similarities among the two is that both founded their Parisian fashion houses at the age of 42. However, it should be noted that Balenciaga had been known for years prior to his debut as a mem ber of Paris’s couture elite, having established his house originally in San Sebastian, Spain in 1917 before subsequently moving it to Paris during the Spanish civil war. Dior was, in many ways, the
“BALENCIAGA!” WAS THE final word of Myrtle Snow as she was burned at the stake, in what was one of American Horror Story most iconic moments to date. This campy pop culture scene, aired decades after Balenciaga’s death, speaks volumes about the cultur al legacy and impact of his designs. Currently on display at The Museum at FIT is “Dior + Balenciaga: The Kings of Couture and their Legacies,” which dives into how these two men shaped the haute couture landscape forever and created what are two of most powerful houses in the fashion today.
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first example of the modern creative director that so many fashion houses have adopted today. Less technically hands-on in the creation of the garments themselves, his expertise was sketching, working with the seam stresses, and serving as the lead behind the business operations. Conversely, Balenciaga was a true couture dressmaker, involved in every aspect of the produc tion of his garments and referred to by Dior as “the master of us all.” Together, both men redefined the way women dressed post World War II. “Dior strove to banish the deprivation of the war years; he modernized the corseted shape of the Belle Époque,” says Patricia Mears, deputy director and curator of MFIT and curator of the exhibition. Throughout the exhibition, gowns are displayed side by side and much of the early work is hard to distinguish between the two creators. But it is the subtle shapes and snitches of the design that give viewers clues as to which belongs to Balenciaga and Dior.
One of Balenciaga’s most famous custom ers was the eccentric Kentucky-born Countess Mona Von Bismarck. Voted the best dressed woman in the world in 1933 by Chanel, Balenciaga, and other top designers of the time, her love of Balenciaga knew no bounds. After her train derailed carry ing much of her wardrobe, she famously bought over 150 Balenciaga dresses to replenish her collection. But it is her reaction to Balenciaga’s decision to close the house in 1968 that is perhaps the greatest testament to his genius. Countess Von Bismarck locked her self away to grieve in her Capri villa for three days. It’s these anecdotes that make fashion so fascinating. That designers can move their patrons so. Balenciaga’s off-white silk faille evening dress, 1961 (left), and Di or’s pale beige ribbed silk evening dress, 1957 (right), on display at the Museum at FIT. Opposite page, clockwise from above: Dior created the haute couture gown that Princess Margaret wore for her 21st birthday; Diana Vreeland holding a one seam coat by Balen ciaga in New York, 1973; Dior dressing model Dorothy Emms, 1952; Lisa Fons sagrives-Penn wearing a coat by Balenciaga in Paris, 1950.
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Dior has had its own share of notable fashion devotees, includ ing the Queen Mother and Princess Margaret who chose a Dior cream 21st birthday dress, one of the most elegant pieces in fashion history. And like Balenciaga, Dior’s passing left the fashion world grief-stricken, with his funeral attended by over 2,500 friends, col leagues, and patrons. Since closing the house of Balenciaga, new life was given to Nicolas Ghesquière when he took the helm from 1997 to 2012. The designs of Ghesquière during his tenure at Balenciaga are consid ered a second golden age for the brand and are still highly coveted, fetching jaw-dropping prices for his now vintage looks. Demna Gvesalia has put his own stamp on the brand since 2015, originally leaning into the more streetwear couture vibe for which he has become so well known. More recently, he has brought a new level of sophistication to his couture shows, with his last presentation featuring Naomi Campbell, Nicole Kidman, and Kim Kardashian gracing the runway in Gvesalia’s Balenciaga. Since the untimely passing of Christian Dior in 1957, there have been several designers who have shaped the brand. Yves Saint Laurent, who worked closely under Dior, became the heir to the house upon his death. The brand was then carried on for many years by Marc Bohan. John Galliano brought a new level of fame and recognition for the brand during his tenure from 1996 to 2011. Galliano’s couture shows were nothing short of glamorous showstop pers, with most dresses being instantly museum worthy. Today, the brand’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri designs clothes for the modern woman that are functional, feminine, and fanciful. Perhaps what brings the entire story full circle is that Chiuri will receive the 2022 Couture Council Award on September 7th from the Couture Council of the Museum at FIT. Visit “Dior + Balenciaga” at FIT and perhaps you too will exclaim, “Balenciaga!” u
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Clockwise from above: Dior’s Fall 2022 couture show; Maria Grazia Chiuri, cur rent creative director of Dior, will be honored at FIT’s upcoming Couture Council luncheon; Dior’s olive wool boucle coat, 1952 (left) and Balenciaga’s purple mohair Coat, 1957 (right) on display at the Museum at FIT; Bella Hadid in a 2022 Balenciaga couture look. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A model wearing Dior’s La Cigale coat for Harper’s Bazaar , 1952; a Dior ensemble consisting of a coat in green brocade with mink collar and cuffs and a dress in blue satin embroi dered with peacock feather motif, haute couture, 2004; Balenciaga’s silk organza with ostrich feathers, 1967 (left), on display at the Museum at FIT.
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Photographer Kate Barry, Jane Birkin’s talented daughter, captures the allure of actress Sophie Marceau (who resembles a young Jane Birkin), while reviving the mystery of JeanAuguste-Dominique Ingres’ “La Grande Odalisque,” painted in 1814. Opposite: Portrait of Jane Birkin, taken in the 1960s.
“There’s no fun in a bag if it’s not kicked around so that it looks as if the cat’s been sitting on it—and it usually has. The cat may even be in it! I always put on stickers and beads and worry beads. You can get them from Greece, Israel, Palestine— from anywhere in the world.” —Jane Birkin
The Birkin has become more than a bag—it is a statement. It reminds me of the Magritte painting with
The soft, handmade, rectangular bag—luxuriously lined in lambskin—boasted clean, classical lines punctuated with sleek, shiny hardware. A very practical lock and key was attached with a matching leather cord, so the contents could be tucked safely inside without ever falling out again. And an Hermès stamp was tastefully hidden under the flap (no flashy logos for the dis creet Hermès brand). It did not take long for the world’s movers and shakers to fall in love
ONCE UPON A TIME, in the early 1980s, Jean-Louis Du mas, the CEO of Hermès, was seated on a flight from Paris to London next to the beauteous actress Jane Birkin. Suddenly, Jane’s straw travelling bag tumbled to the floor, sending its precious con tents all over the place and leaving the embarrassed young lady scur rying to humbly clean her mess up off the floor. The damsel in distress lamented to Dumas that it was ab solutely impossible to find a leather weekend bag that she liked, so she had resorted to carrying an impracti cal, flimsy straw one. The kind CEO graciously solved her problem, com ing to her rescue like a true knight in shining armor by creating a big comfy exquisitely crafted bag named just for her. What a generous solution!
with the attractive (yet prac tical), deluxe bag. Casually flung over the arms of the most glamorous and chic women (and even men), the Birkin became the “it bag” to end all “it bags”, and was soon seen carried by the most photogenic royals, celebrities, actresses, fashion editors, socialites, designers, and jet settersMeanwhile,everywhere.ever-clever Hermès would only produce a very few Birkins and never let their stores know when they would arrive, or even how many. Fashion-conscious ladies grew desperate to get one (despite the hefty price tag). This savvy marketing technique enhanced the allure and mystique behind the Birkin, for as human nature has proven over and over again—we all desire that which we cannot have. Soon, there was a waitlist for the coveted bag and, adding to the frustration, before long the waitlist abruptly closed. Thus the phrase “Birkin bag syn drome” was coined, taking the con cept of “hard to get” to a whole new level. Even pre-owned or used Birkins sell for vast sums at prestigious auc tion houses like Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Bonhams, as well as on designer consignment sites like therealreal. com, rebag.com, and 1stdibs.com.
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This page, clockwise from top left: Jane Birkin takes up photography in Cannes, 1975; Jane Birkin’s original Hermès “Birkin”; Birkin carrying her emblematic wicker basket; Birkin carrying her daughter Charlotte in Nice, 1972; Pattie Boyd, Jane Birkin, George Harrison, and Ringo Starr at Cannes Film Festival, 1968. Opposite page, clockwise from lower left: Valesca Guerrand-Hermès carrying a Birkin at Bergdorf’s, 2004; Hilary Geary Ross (carrying her Birkin) seated front row next to Eleanor Ylvisaker at Vera Wang’s Fall 2008 show; Kelly Ripa walking with her son, Hermès Birkin in tow; Aerin Lauder (with her black Birkin tucked beneath her seat) and Lauren duPont at Calvin Klein’s Spring 2008 show.
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This page, clockwise from top: Jane Birkin, wearing an ensemble by designer Federico Forquet, photo graphed by Jeanloup Sieff in Rome for Harper’s Bazaar , 1966; Birkin and Serge Gains bourg on holiday in Cannes, August, 1972 (they married in Paris that September); Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg in Sérieux comme le Plaisir , directed by Robert Benayoun, 1974. Opposite page: Portrait of Jane Birkin, 1960; Birkin lying on a roulette table, 1965 (inset).
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This page: Jane Birkin holding a Bengal tiger cub in 1997; Jamee Gregory and Hilary Geary Ross at an Escada fashion show benefiting The Boys’ Club of New York, 2003 (note Hilary’s Hermès Birkin). Opposite page: Jane Birkin with her daughters Kate Barry, 7, (whose father was John Barry), and Charlotte Gainsbourg, 2, (whose father was Serge Gainsbourg), Aix-en-Provence, France, 1974.
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—Jane Birkin
“Any bag that’s with me will take the same course as I will. It will take the same airplanes and will be squashed in the same way and will be used as a cushion in the airports.”
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“this is not a pipe” written across the canvas. The Birkin is not just a bag, but a trophy, a prize, a status symbol, an obsession for all that is chic. (Victo ria Beckham is said to own hundreds of Unfortunately,them!) a “Grimm” lit tle twist has been added to the Bir kin fable: Jane Birkin, an animal rights activist, complained to Hermès about the treatment of alligators be ing farmed for her namesake bag, and asked that her name be removed. I love animals and reptiles, too, but I can think of a thousand women who would happily have an Hermès bag named after them...including me! u
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BY BROOKE MURRAY MURRAY THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST YGL Goop’s dinner in East Hampton to celebrate the launch of the Dark Spot Exfoliating Sleep Milk.
GOOP’S PAJAMA DINNER IN EAST HAMPTON
IN COLLABORATION with Cartier, Goop hosted an intimate summer soirée to celebrate the launch of its new Dark Spot Exfoliating Sleep Milk. Dressed in their chicest pajamas (a nod to the product, which has been dubbed “beauty sleep in a bottle”), guests enjoyed Champagne, live music, and dinner in a romantic carriage house set in a garden of fruit trees. Attendees included Gwyneth Paltrow , Savannah Guthrie , Daphne Oz , and more.SEPTEMBER
Clockwise from top left: Jessica Seinfeld, Amy Griffin, and Melissa Wood; MoAna Luu; Lili Buffett; Savannah Guthrie and Gwyneth Paltrow; Indre Rockefeller and Sabrina Mallick.
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POLO HAMPTONS IN BRIDGEHAMPTON
Kenneth and Maria Fishel
Lucia Hwong Gordon and Lucia Rich Polo match
Matt and Patty Raynes HENSELFORAGIBALOWVITALRICH/SOCIETYALLURE.COM;ROB
Christie Brinkley with a polo player
142 QUEST YGL OVER TWO summer weekends, Maria and Kenneth Fishel welcomed guests to their Bridgehampton home for a cocktail party before heading to the exciting Polo Hamptons matches. Each summer, Polo Hamptons presents unforgettable afternoons spent on the sidelines with an open bar and hors d’oeuvres.
Ronald Burton III and Rashiid Coleman
Nicky Hilton Rothschild
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Cass Dimicco and Shea Marie
TO CELEBRATE Valentino’s summer Escape Collection filled with relaxed silhouettes in light fabrics that express a playful attitude the brand hosted a two-hour sunset cruise that departed from Sag Harbor. The boat was decorated to match the collection, and featured music by DJ Isaac Likes with dancing on the top deck. u VALENTINO’S CRUISE IN SAG HARBOR
Lilah Ramzi and Elizabeth Kurpis
BFA
Cait Bailey and Mario Carbone
Cardin, who was born near Venice, Italy in 1922, made his name first as a tailor of men’s clothing, but turned to women’s wear in postwar era Paris, working with Paquin, Schiaparelli, and Dior, before launching his own company in 1950. He was one of the first designers to venture into the readyto-wear realm in the early ’60s, well before many of his peers in the rarefied haute couture world.
IN THE 1960s and 1970s, there was probably mo bigger name in French fashion than that of Pierre Cardin, whose name and distinctive logo were found on apparel for women and men, luggage and handbags, fragrances, sheets and towels, airplane interiors, and almost every category of merchandise imaginable.
Cardin was unusually prescient in his attitude toward fash ion’s“Myfuture:name is more important than myself,” he once said, and saw the advent of ready-to-wear as the savior of the French fashion business, later stating that “prêt-à-porter will kill your name, but it saved
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BY ROBERT JANJIGIAN
Cardin, who died in 2020, is the subject Flammarion’s new book, Pierre Cardin: Making Fashion Modern by Jean-Pascal Hesse and Pierre Pelegry, which will be released in November. It’s an essential addition to the style section of any home library. ◆ Clockwise from bottom left: The cover of Pierre Cardin: Making Fashion Modern; wool crepe cocktail dress and coat with holes, suede belt, and sable neckline, 1965; iconic cocktail dresses from the 1966 collection worn with felt riding hats (Jean Paul Gaultier drew inspira tion from this design for the pointed-breast corset dress that he created in 1983, and that Madonna wore in 1990 for her ‘Blond Ambition’ tour); Pierre Cardin in the middle of a design session for a checkered wool garment with Hiroko, his favorite Japanese model.
me.”PROTO-INFLUENCERCardindressedprominentwomenandmen throughout the world, responsible for the seminal bubble dress and the collar less suit jackets worn by The Beatles in the early ’60s, and was an experimenter, exploring the application of non traditional materials to fashion, and embracing an aesthetic that reflected the Space Age ideals of the ’60s. He was also a restaurateur, owner of the fabled Belle Époque Paris dining spot Maxim’s, which he turned into a global brand as well. But his full-throttle belief in the power of the designer name, which led to the successful licensing of his name, is perhaps his greatest legacy. What’s surprising, however, was his distaste for one particular category of apparel that has proven to be interna tionally beloved. “The jean is the destructor. It is a dictator. It is destroying creativity. The jean must be stopped.”