How’s this for a bit of theatre? A tea light. Placed on the table. Surreptitiously, the way James Bond takes directions through his ear piece.
It happens somewhere around course eight. As we slide our knives through precision-cut scallops, scorched at the edges from a swift time spent over wood fire, the candle melts down. Now comes the big reveal. This is no ordinary wax candle. It’s not even wax. It’s tallow: made with the rendered down fat from the saddle of lamb now approaching our table. The melted fat is split table-side with a jus spiked with anchovies and nori, then poured over the lamb. If there’s a signature moment at Tomas Gormley’s highly anticipated new opening, Cardinal, this is it.
In less stylish