36 Hours on Maui

The Wailea Beach Path, which meanders along the island’s southern coast, reflects Maui’s almost contradictory personas: On one side, opulent resorts flaunt swim-up bars and nightly torch-lighting ceremonies. A subtler drama unfolds on the opposite side, where native flora like honey-scented naio bushes, spiky hala trees and hibiscus blossoms flourish along the rocky shoreline. Sit and listen to the sea rush through the lava rocks as the sun drops between three islands: Lanai, Kahoolawe and tiny Molokini. In the 1970s, nine Native Hawaiians occupied Kahoolawe in defiance of the U.S. military, which had been using the island as a bombing range for decades. Their daring protest sparked what is now known as the Hawaiian Renaissance — a revival of Indigenous culture that continues today.

The name of Tikehau, a new lounge in Wailea, means “peaceful landing.” The bar, which opened in November and is quietly raising the standard for craft cocktails statewide, was true to its name for Mari Howe, its manager, and other staff who came to work here after losing jobs or homes to the Lahaina fire. Everything is thoughtfully selected, from the gold-leaf wallpaper to the crystal stemware. Garnishes are coveted souvenirs; a tiny surfboard floats atop the Thousand Peaks ($19) — a lagoon-blue Paloma topped with jasmine-tea “sea foam.” The Hawaiian Samurai ($50), a top-shelf-whiskey libation, comes with a miniature katana sword. Ms. Howe’s seasonal menu incorporates local spirits and mixers: fresh pineapple juice, Kō Hana rum and okolehao, a moonshine made from Hawaiian ti plants. Upscale snacks include poisson cru, a raw-fish dish ($25), and smoked taro hummus ($15).

This morning mission requires preparation. First, book a sunrise reservation at Haleakalā National Park well in advance ($1 permit, $30 park entrance). Then pack really warm clothes. In the darkness, drive slowly up the 10,000-foot volcano; fog often obscures cattle and native geese loitering in hairpin turns. Your efforts will be rewarded at the peak — first by the velvet sky awash with stars, then by the sun’s rays spilling across the fire-forged mountain. Notice how the silverswords (hedgehog-like plants that grow only here) sparkle in the golden light. As you descend, stop at Hosmer Grove, where a short hike leads to a forest full of Hawaiian honeycreepers, birds that are among some of the planet’s rarest.

Take the scenic drive back to sea level through historic Makawao and Paia towns. Bordered by a rodeo arena and a polo field, Makawao is the charming headquarters of the paniolo, Hawaiian cowboys who continue to rope and ride across the island’s lush ranchlands. On the corner of Makawao and Baldwin Avenues you’ll see T. Komoda Store and Bakery; this beloved family-run business, which has served the community since 1916, sells out of its cream puffs and butter rolls daily. Follow Baldwin past the defunct sugar mill to Paia. Once a busy sugar plantation hub surrounded by green cane fields, it’s now home to surfers and artists. As you pass Baldwin Beach, admire the view of the rain-carved West Maui Mountains. The morning light often reveals the hidden interior of ‘Īao Valley, your next destination.

Head to Kaohu Store in Wailuku for lunch to go. This mom-and-pop grocery offers the island’s best poke — raw fish mixed with traditional seasonings such as ground kukui nuts and seaweed (from $18 a pound). Add two scoops of rice and crunchy fern salad for a truly local meal. If you prefer a cooked lunch, visit Tails Up Maui for a classy fish sandwich ($19) or mochiko (rice flour) fried chicken ($17). Take your picnic to Kepaniwai Park, where model houses commemorate the diverse cultures of Hawaii’s sugar plantation era, and dip your feet into the Wailuku River. Continue to ‘Īao Valley State Monument (out-of-state visitors need reservations; $5 entrance fee, $10 parking). Paved walkways wind through a traditional lo‘i kalo (taro patch), past multiple waterfalls and up to a stunning lookout.

At Balai Pata, a new Filipino restaurant in Kahului, a celebration of the flavors that the chef and owner Joey Macadangdang grew up with is a welcome addition to Maui’s restaurant scene. Plump Kauai prawns sauteed in garlicky fish sauce ($17) set the stage for savory sinigang ($30) — tamarind broth loaded with long beans, okra and fish. For dessert, two can share the halo-halo ($18) — crushed ice topped with avocado, ube ice cream, coconut cream and fruit jellies, served in a coconut shell. The décor reflects a bright, homespun aesthetic, and once a month, local families fill the restaurant for late-night happy hour and karaoke battles — check Instagram for dates.

A trip to Maui isn’t complete without ducking underwater to spy on clouds of striped manini fish, eagle rays and turtles. While most snorkel tours start at Mā‘alaea Harbor, Blue Water Rafting boards at the Kihei boat ramp — offering easier access and one of the only tours of Kanaio Coast’s hidden coves and sea caves ($179, four hours). Climb into the rigid-hulled raft beside two dozen other passengers (fewer than the big tour boats) and watch for dolphins. In winter, close encounters with whales are common. As you peer into the pristine bay formed by Maui’s youngest lava flow, imagine the Polynesian wayfinders sailing here centuries ago, followed by the French explorer La Pérouse in 1786. The ride is exhilarating but bumpy.