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T Magazine

Food

Highlights

  1. Photo
    The flagship Sahadi’s grocery store on Brooklyn’s Atlantic Avenue. The business is currently run by the fourth and fifth generations of the Sahadi family. From left: Christine Sahadi Whelan, Pat Whelan, Michael Whelan, Caitlin Whelan and Ron Sahadi.
    CreditChase Middleton
    The 212

    The Brooklyn Grocery Store That Feeds Nostalgia

    Sahadi’s, on Atlantic Avenue, has specialized in Middle Eastern comfort food for the past 75 years. Now, with a second location and a lively cafe, the family-run market is courting a new following.

     By Reggie Nadelson

    2. Photo
      Left: Jennifer Tran used ingredients such as turmeric, beetroot and spinach to color her lasagna noodles. Right: Fiona Afshar’s rainbow-bright paccheri.
      CreditFrom left: Jennifer Tran; Fiona Afshar
      People, PLaces, Things

      Pasta That’s Almost Too Pretty to Eat

      Plus: illuminated sculptures inspired by Indigenous motifs, elegant ballet slippers and more from T’s cultural compendium.

       

    3. Photo
      An impractically bent butter knife.
      CreditPhotograph by Kyoko Hamada. Styled by Victoria Petro-Conroy
      FOOD Matters

      When Did Hospitality Get So Hostile?

      In a new era of rage, dining out has become downright volatile — with both customers and servers aggrieved.

       By Ligaya Mishan, Kyoko Hamada and Victoria Petro-Conroy

  2. Entertaining With
    Photo
    Guests including Jaimie Hodgson, left, Susanna Lau, center, and Rosey Chan, right, gathered for dinner in the dining room of the designer Han Chong’s London home.
    CreditDavid Fernandez

    A Fashion Designer’s Lunar New Year Feast

    Inspired by his family’s annual festivities in Malaysia, Han Chong filled his London home with friends for an evening of Mandarin gimlets and pineapple-filled pastry.

     By Kin Woo

  2. The T List
    Photo
    The dinner, which featured sweet pea hummus; baby beet salad; Orecchiette with pea shoots, carrots and French radishes; and chickpea stew with panisses, was served family style.
    CreditAdrianna Newell

    T Magazine’s Favorite Food Stories of 2022

    In a special edition of the T List, we look back on a year of eating early, being hypnotized by wobbly dishes, watching Ina Garten make risotto — and more.

     

Food Matters

More in Food Matters ›
  1. Photo
    Clockwise from left: Edith’s ube schnecken and lemon meringue schnecke; K’Far’s poppy seed, brown butter and olive bourekas and potato and everything spice bourekas.
    CreditMari Maeda and Yuji Oboshi

    The Bakers Reimagining Traditional Jewish Pastries

    By transforming once-kosher recipes with new flavors, shapes and techniques, chefs are innovating on, and safeguarding, time-honored breads and desserts.

     By Jenny Comita, Mari Maeda and Yuji Oboshi and Linda Heiss

  2. Photo
    A woman resting among, clockwise from bottom left, pink pineapple, pink grapefruit, sweet corn, eggplant, papaya, red mango, yellow dragon fruit, cantaloupe, blood orange, yellow mango, star fruit, banana, pineapple, red grapes, pomegranate, peach, maraschino cherries, Japanese eggplant and honeydew melon.
    CreditPhotograph by Melody Melamed. Set design by Theresa Rivera

    How Did 🍆 Become Our Default Sex Symbol?

    A variety of fruits have long been used to convey eroticism, but in their emoji form, one seems to have won out.

     By Ligaya Mishan and Melody Melamed

  3. Photo
    Clockwise from top left: twigak and bugak, seasonal savory chips of seaweed, sunchoke and vegetables; tangpyeong chae, a mungbean salad; suranchae, a noble dish made of chilled abalone, diver scallop, snow crab, octopus, poached egg and pine nut sauce; chaeso gaesalbap, rice topped with snow crab, celeriac and zucchini and served with soy pickles; dakjuk, a porridge with fresh seasonal herbs and julienne potatoes and cucumbers; and soo jeung gye, a chicken dish featured in Korea’s oldest-known cookbook (published in 1670), this version stuffed with beef, onions and mushrooms.
    CreditPhotograph by David Chow. Prop styling by Leilin Lopez-Toledo. Costume design by Stephanie Kim.

    When a Country’s Cuisine Becomes a Cultural Export

    South Korea has sought to protect and enshrine its national dishes — while also sharing its wonders with the world.

     By Ligaya Mishan and David Chow

  4. Photo
    The chef Prateek Sadhu carrying his haul through the Kashmiri wilderness.
    CreditAnu Kumar

    The Kashmiri Chef Foraging on Precarious Soil

    For Prateek Sadhu, gathering native ingredients in the conflict zone where he grew up is the only way of asserting Kashmir’s tenuous place in the world.

     By Ligaya Mishan and Anu Kumar

  5. Photo
    Jiggly delicacies, including, clockwise from bottom left, mushroom jelly, grape and lemon jelly with maraschino cherry, clear currant jelly, green pea jelly, condensed milk jelly and rainbow jelly with whipped cream.
    CreditPhotograph by Kyoko Hamada. Styled by Martin Bourne. Food styling by Suea

    Why Are We Obsessed With Jiggling Foods?

    For more than a thousand years, dishes that wiggle and wobble have bounced to the fore during precarious eras.

     By Ligaya Mishan, Kyoko Hamada and Martin Bourne

  1. Entertaining With

    From the Creator of the New Series ‘Transatlantic,’ a Surrealist-Inspired Lunch

    Ahead of her latest show’s release, Anna Winger hosted a meal for her friends and collaborators, complete with custom tarot cards.

    By Gisela Williams

     
  2. The 212

    The Sweets Shop in Queens That Evokes an Old-World Confectionery

    Aigner Chocolates has been making all its own treats for the past 93 years. Now it’s in full spring holiday mode, beckoning locals with toffee matzo and three-foot-tall Easter bunnies.

    By Reggie Nadelson

     

  3. A New Exhibition Shows That Barkley L. Hendricks Was Never Simply a Painter

    Plus: an expanding group of Japanese restaurants in Brooklyn, exuberant tableware from Kit Kemp and more recommendations from T Magazine.

     

  4. Natural Wines That Channel Berlin, Down to the Spray-Paint Label

    Plus: Ai Weiwei’s first design-focused exhibition, Italian Easter pastries made with balsamic vinegar and more recommendations from T Magazine.

     
  5. IN THE GARDEN

    Is It a Melon or a Cucumber? It’s a Cucumber Melon, and It’s Delicious

    These heirloom cucumber varieties, some of which date to ancient Egypt, ‘are never bitter, and always easy on the digestion.’

    By Margaret Roach

     
  6. Entertaining With

    A Romantic Mexico City Dinner to Toast a Growing Fashion Brand

    How the designer Olivia Villanti, of the line Chava Studio, threw a party and a collection launch that felt sophisticated yet low key.

    By Michael Snyder

     
  7. Entertaining With

    A Los Angeles Dinner for an Italian Design Legend

    Gaetano Pesce was the guest of honor at a meal celebrating his show at the Future Perfect gallery in the Hollywood Hills.

    By Liam Freeman and Joyce Kim

     

  8. Is This the New Cocktail Capital of Europe?

    Awash in small stylish watering holes where cocktails are tailored to customers’ tastes, Belgrade is quietly developing into one of the best bar destinations in Europe.

    By David Farley

     
  9. Home and Work

    This Chef’s SoHo Loft Is Strictly Invitation Only

    Yann Nury’s New York atelier, where he hosts the lucky few for meals, doubles as a secret design haven.

    By Kurt Soller and David Chow

     

  10. A Peek Behind the Bloodstained Curtains of the Blacklips Performance Cult

    Plus: Café de Flore-themed tableware, a stylish German pub and more recommendations from T Magazine.