Think of Mount Vernon these days and the first images that come to mind are those class trips—kids feeding goats, running through a straw-bale maze, and going on wagon rides. The last thing you'd associate with the home of George Washington is whiskey (indeed, our first president preferred Madeira and port). And yet I found myself yesterday on the grounds of Washington's distillery, witnessing a three-year project come to fruition: the creation of a glorious single-malt whiskey. (Am I the only one excited about this?)
Actually located some three miles south of the main estate, Washington's distillery came back to life in 2006 and is operated by and large the way it was in 1798. The grains come from the gristmill next door although the copper stills are heated by steam now as opposed to the less-predictable woodfire. The two times I've visited, the distillers were not only sweating it out churning large vats of mash, but they were also clad in thick colonial garb. (As an adult visitor, I found watching all this much more compelling than learning how to warp a loom.)
The single-malt idea came about in 2012—why not take imported Scottish malted barley, run it through the gristmill, and turn it into something close to Scotch (as opposed to a rye- or corn-based whiskey)? Because of the relatively more extreme climate in Virginia (very cold winters and sweltering summers as opposed to generally cold Scottish weather year-round), the aging process would last a mere three years in new, toasted American oak barrels and finished in Madeira casks. The product was the brainchild of Mount Vernon distillers David Pickerell (the former longtime master distiller at Maker's Mark) and Steve Bashore and, just as crucial, three Scottish distillers: Bill Lumsden (Glenmorangie), Andy Cant (Cardhu), and John Campbell (Laphroaig). During yesterday's opening ceremony, Bashore and Pickerell appeared in colonial outfits while the Scots donned their finest Highland dresses.
Two single malts came out of this process—the Limited Edition and the Distiller's Reserve. I sampled both and prefer the former, which I found smooth and drinkable, with just a touch of smoke. (That said, of all the samples to be had, the Glenmorangie Signet, which retails for at least $150 a bottle, was by far the most exquisite.) The single malts, alas, are not for retail, though the standard rye whiskey can still be found in the gift shop. Instead, these 30 bottles are going to charity. At a gala event last night, $380,000 was donated to Mount Vernon and $50,000 went to the Wounded Warriors Family Support program. Meanwhile, a set of two bottles was auctioned off to an individual for $26,000.
In Washington's time, the distillery was one of the largest in the country, cranking out 11,000 gallons each year. Keep in mind these were not single malts or blends, but rather clear, unaged whiskies. There's no question, however, that today's single-malt trend continues to be all the rage. It began around 1989 with Glenfiddich dispelling the notion that single malt meant single flavor. That said, blends are still the dominating variety of whiskey around the world. Indeed, the most popular whiskey in China is still Chivas Regal.