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Imagining a fashion world without Anna Wintour, Beyoncé heads to the music festival — and more.
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Friday, April 13, 2018
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Photograph by Tom Johnson. Styled by Malina Joseph Gilchrist
Vanessa Friedman
Vanessa Friedman The New York Times’s fashion director and chief fashion critic
Hello and happy last Friday before tax day — otherwise known as the Friday before Coachella. Well, if you need to escape the irritations and stress of the former, a music festival isn’t a bad option. Especially one that features Beyoncé, a.k.a. Oshun/Kali/Aphrodite in human form. (At least that is increasingly the message.)
 
Before we get to that, however, I want to thank everyone who wrote to me after last week’s Open Thread with suggestions and thoughts on the new resale age. I learned a lot, and am going to delve deeper. Please keep passing on ideas and reactions to everything you read here. 
 
Now back to Beyoncé! Will she appear, as she did at the Wearable Art Gala last month and at the 2017 Grammys, as one of the above gold-robed goddesses? Will she adopt some ’70s outlaw chic à la promo poster for her upcoming joint tour with Jay-Z? (Will Jay-Z be her surprise guest?) Will she be all Ivy-Park’d-out, and, like so many brands, use the opportunity as a massive marketing moment?
 
Sorry — “activation.” That’s what everyone is calling it now. We will see Saturday night when her set is live-streamed and the internet probably breaks.
 
But whatever she wears, hopefully it will help move us past ye olde faux-flower child festival aesthetic. I don’t think I’m the only one who believes it’s due for a change.
Really, hasn’t the commodification of fringe and daisy-chain crowns reached its zenith (or nadir, depending on how you look at it), co-opted to an extreme extent by the mass market and high end alike?
 
Short answer: yes. But as a result, something of a backlash has been created. And while there are still major fashion parties planned around the event (Dior, Moschino and Fenty x Puma are all hosting dos), and sites such as Net-a-Porter and Bebe still offer “festival” edits, there’s also lots of talk about a new look: one that is more street-centric (and portable back to the urban landscape) and less Teflon hippie.
 
Translation: track pants, T-shirts and sneakers instead of poppy-covered maxi dresses and gladiator sandals. Kimono jackets. (Check out Fashionista to give you an idea, and this piece from Teen Vogue about the dangers of festival cultural-appropriation blindness.) So long, denatured Woodstock! 
 
And that’s not the only change in the air. Catch-up on Nordstrom’s first New York store (given the state of department stores at the moment, that’s brave); what the fashion world might look like after Anna Wintour; and how an entirely new professional niche is springing up known as … fashion psychology. Believe it — and have a good weekend. 
The Story Behind the Image
Spring is in the Air — and So Are the ’80s: This season, the irreverence of the decade makes a comeback in the form of ruffles, faux fur and strong suiting. Read the story
Imagining a World After Anna
Joyce Dopkeen/The New York Times
A rumor that Anna Wintour was leaving Vogue spread like wildfire. Condé Nast says it’s not true. But what would that look like — and why all the chatter?
The Dress Doctor Is In
Cecilia Carlstedt
Dawnn Karen of the Fashion Institute of Technology is a leader in the growing field of fashion psychology — or why we want what we think we want.
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Nordstrom Is Opening a New York Store as Other Retailers Close Theirs
Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times
Need a tie at 2 a.m.? Order it online, and a men’s store employee will meet you at the entrance. It’s part of Nordstrom’s bet that flagship stores have a future.
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Your Style Questions, Answered
 

Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion-related question, which you can send to her anytime via email or Twitter. Questions are edited and condensed.

 

Q: I am heading off to a college reunion in early June. What to wear? No football games. No late-night dances. No looking for guys. We sit close and talk loudly. — Leslie, NYC.

 

A: Speaking of psychology! The decision about what to wear to a college reunion is awfully fraught (at least for me). After all, who you were and what you wore between 18 to 21, and who you are now and what your wardrobe might contain are probably two different things, whether you graduated a year ago or 60 years ago. How do you reconcile the two?

 

Especially given that we all also have the physical signifiers of age to take into account, and that what looks really great in New York, say, or L.A. or Chicago, might look kind of peculiar in the quads of higher learning.

 

It’s hard to get too specific, but a few rules of thumb: Do not dress how you dressed back in the day, for obvious reasons. As Thomas Wolfe said, you can’t go home again. But also do not dress like you are going to the office, even if the suit is your security blanket, unless you want your old friends to stereotype you immediately (maybe you do). My general approach is the less branded the better, so that your clothes are effectively a blank canvas that allow you to tell your own story about who you are now at your own pace.

 

At the most general, that means comfortable shoes (you may be standing around). Maybe easy silk or jersey trousers with a blouse (think tailored pajama dressing), or perhaps a shirtdress. A scarf or long cardigan for evening in case it gets cold.  The aim should be pulled-together, but also relaxed. — VANESSA FRIEDMAN

 
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