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Edition: U.S. / Global

Thursday, August 17, 2017

Food

Benjamin Norman for The New York Times

At this small shop on the Lower East Side, Fernando Lopez makes fluffy, crumbly tamales that evoke “the feeling when I was a 5-year-old.”

Alsatian Wines Strike a Balance of Dry and Sweet

For years, the region has battled its reputation for unexpectedly sweet and cloying wines. It’s time to look again.

Restaurant Review

Made Nice Is Fast and Casual. But Is It Good?

The chef Daniel Humm tries to bring his meticulous care and artistry to a high-speed operation.

When Jack Daniel’s Failed to Honor a Slave, an Author Rewrote History

The whiskey maker backed away from a promise to acknowledge its debt to a black distiller — until Fawn Weaver swooped into town and took up the cause.

Eat

Oysters: A Love Story

Grilled with a hot-sauce butter, they become a dish worth sharing.

The Chef

For Niven Patel, Farm-to-Table Cooking Means Taro and Mangoes

The Miami chef grows produce in his backyard in Homestead, Fla. — the only part of the contiguous United States with a tropical monsoon climate.

Embrace the Egg!

In summer, the humble hard-boiled egg can turn a tomato sandwich into dinner, or a potato salad into a vegetarian main course. Make some today.

Meals for Your Eclipse Menu

In parts of the United States, the eclipse will occur around lunchtime. Consider planning a picnic. (At least, have a crescent-shaped cookie.)

A Good Appetite

The Best Way to Let Summer Fruit Shine

The cobbler, a seasonal standby, can be made with pie crust, biscuits or cake — but its greatest versatility lies in the fruit you use.

City Kitchen

Swap the Hot Grill for a Cool Drink and Low Oven

Thai-style pork ribs, marinated with honey, soy and ginger, just need a turn in the oven before being painted with glaze.

Wines of The Times

Rich and Oaky, White Rioja Bends the Summer Standard

Though not your typical quencher, these complex, unusual wines are both refreshing and interesting.

Off the Menu

Sola Pasta Bar, From a Michelin-Starred Chef, Opens in SoHo

Major Food Group plans a new branch of Parm and a tiki bar, Eiji Ichimura’s next moves, closings and other restaurant news.

Have You Seen This Pizza Performance at Lucali’s?

Breaking down Mark Iacono’s sacred ritual, moment by perfect moment.

A Luxurious Menu of Korean Desserts

Eunji Lee, the pastry chef at Jungsik, has designed a dessert menu that becomes more indulgent as the evening progresses.

Casual French Cafe Opens on Upper East Side

Café Bilboquet sells morning pastries, sweets and drinks, and will soon expand its menu.

High-Wire Feat for Single-Stem Flowers

The florist Kelsie Hayes floats flowers, dangling them above the dinner table like acrobats in flight.

Elegant Grinders for the Seasoning Set

Tablestick grinders from Unicorn in Nantucket, Mass., take their design from a popular waiter’s tool.

Duck and Wild Boar Salami for Summer Picnics

D’Artagnan has added two new meats to its lineup of air-cured saucisson sec.

Extra Spice Gives Ginger Beer a Refreshing Kick

The producer of Bruce Cost Ginger Ale now makes Brooklyn Crafted, a ginger beer that is just right for cocktails.

Icy, Sweet and Instagram-Ready

Ingenious takes on soft serve, shaved ice and other treats from Thailand, Japan and South Korea are putting the American scoop shop to shame.

Restaurants and News
The restaurant has a mesmerizing view of the Brooklyn Bridge.
Cole Wilson for The New York Times

The restaurant has a mesmerizing view of the Brooklyn Bridge.

This special-occasion restaurant on the East River in Brooklyn was in many ways a pioneer, yet its understated charm and elegant owner still thrive.

Free Alaskan Salmon: Just Bring a Net and Expect a Crowd

Amateurs pack the shores of the Kenai River, perhaps the most colorful, and contentious, fishing spot in America.

Restaurant Review

At Nur, an Open-Armed Approach to Middle Eastern Flavors

The Israeli chef Meir Adoni’s pluralist vision embraces the foods of Morocco and Libya in North Africa, as well as Israel, Yemen and Syria.

Fruitcake From Robert Scott Expedition Is ‘Almost’ Edible at 106 Years Old

Conservationists who found the ice-covered dessert in Antarctica believe it once belonged to the British explorer.

Corey Chow to Be New Chef de Cuisine at Per Se

Mr. Chow replaces Eli Kaimeh, who is leaving for a three-month sabbatical.

EBay’s Founder Has a New Idea: Build a Dairy in Hawaii

Kauai residents who object are teaming up with owners of resorts that line the island’s famous beaches to try to block the dairy.

An Appraisal

Remembering Judith Jones and Her Recipe for Food Writing

The cookbook editor, who died Wednesday, inspired and sometimes intimidated the chefs and writers she guided.

Cue the Carrots! Strike Up the Squash!

The musicians of the Long Island Vegetable Orchestra make their instruments from things that grow in the garden.

Trilobites

We Need to Talk Some More About Your Dirty Sponges

A study of the bacteria that proliferate in kitchen sponges alarmed many readers. But do not despair, there are some simple solutions.

‘The Great British Bake Off’ as We Know It Is Over. What Comes Next?

The cheerful British hit has been rocked by drama since it left BBC last year. Here’s what is next for the show and its original hosts.

Buttered Roll Redux: A Lowly Breakfast Food Begets High Drama

“With the amount of breaking news stories in the world, who could possibly be that interested in a little essay about buttered rolls?”

The Secret Life of the City Banana

Millions of bananas arrive every week in New York City. It takes a lot to get them from the boat to the bodega.

Restaurant Review

A New Kind of Sichuan Restaurant for New York

In downtown Flushing, Queens, Guan Fu Sichuan shows off the rich variety of flavors beyond the familiar blast of chiles.

Impossible Burger’s ‘Secret Sauce’ Highlights Challenges of Food Tech

The start-up is finding out what happens when a fast-moving venture capital business runs into the staid world of government regulation.

Off the Menu

Brasserie With an Eye on Expansion Takes Root in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn

The first of three planned locations for KarVér Brasserie and Bakery Café opens, Fairfax opens in the Perla space, and more restaurant news.

Christian Millau, 88, Co-Founder of Lively Restaurant Guide, Dies

Mr. Millau, with Henri Gault, took aim at the Michelin Guide, which he called stodgy and as terse as “a telephone book.”

How Erin French Made a Tiny Maine Town a Dining Destination

The chef has found success by running her small, idiosyncratic restaurant in Freedom, Me., exactly the way she likes.

Judith Jones, Editor of Literature and Culinary Delight, Dies at 93

Ms. Jones discovered Julia Child and other venerated culinary writers, and pushed for the American publication of Anne Frank’s diary.

hungry city

Thai Dishes, Beloved and Rare, at Playground in Woodside, Queens

Sudarat Yingyong serves many dishes, like a salad of red weaver ants, that make no concessions to Western palates.

Ode to the Buttered Roll, That New York Lifeline

The utterly simple kaiser roll, spread with butter, is an unsung hero of the city’s mornings.

Can You Develop Food Allergies at Any Age?

Preliminary data from a large, new national study suggests that over half of American adults with a food allergy developed it after age 18.

Cooking
On Dessert

Elevating the Humble Cookie

Ispahan Sablés.
Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times

Ispahan Sablés.

Pierre Hermé’s raspberry and rose sablés taste wonderfully complex, but making them is easy.

Eat

How to Have Your Health Food and Love It, Too

Make your own tofu, then serve it with a French butter sauce – the best of two very different kinds of cooking.

City Kitchen

A Cool Solution for Hot Summer Nights

This supper is the ideal opportunity to use all those glorious vegetables at the farmers’ market.

A Good Appetite

These Tacos Get Their Fire From the Grill

A stint over the flame brings out the best in all the components of these skirt steak tacos — even the salsa.

City Kitchen

Watermelon Grows Up

A gazpacho-like cold soup, paired with hot pepper and lime juice, is a far cry from the plain fruit of childhood but still elegant in its simplicity.

A Quick, Satisfying Fix for Weeknight Chicken

When pounded thin and marinated, chicken breasts stay juicy and tender.

A Good Appetite

Vegan Ice Cream Enters a Golden Age

With a huge variety of plant-based milks now available on the market, nondairy ice creams are getting better than ever.

City Kitchen

An Instant Way to Bolster Flavor

Miso imbues everything it touches with a sweet, salty, nutty complexity.

Hot Enough for You? Try Eating Something Even Hotter

On summer scorchers, Korean tradition calls for a boiling bowl of chicken, rice and ginseng that’s believed to work better than anything cold.

Drinks

When Bad Drinks Go Good

At Pépé Le Moko in Portland, Ore., new versions of, from left: an amaretto sour, a Blue Hawaii, a Long Island iced tea and a Grasshopper.
Thomas Patterson for The New York Times

At Pépé Le Moko in Portland, Ore., new versions of, from left: an amaretto sour, a Blue Hawaii, a Long Island iced tea and a Grasshopper.

The Long Island iced tea, the Midori sour, the Blue Hawaii: Fussy bartenders are upgrading these decidedly down-market cocktails.

The Pour

Colares, Where the Vineyards Snake Through the Sand

The savory, distinctive Portuguese wines come from unusual vineyards along the Atlantic coast, continental Europe’s westernmost growing region.

The Pour

The Delicious World of Bruno, Chief of Police

Martin Walker shares the wines and food of the Périgord region, which inspired the fictional world of Bruno Courrèges, his small-town French police chief.

Wine School

Giving New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc a Second Chance

Consumers may hold strong opinions about certain kinds of wine, but occasionally revisiting those biases opens people up to new pleasures.

Beer Makers Who Used Other Breweries Are Opening Their Own

A sense of place, and a place to sell, are suddenly important in the beer world. So contract, or “gypsy,” brewers are putting down roots.

Learn to Cook
Cooking
How to Make Jam

In this guide, we’ll walk you through making and canning jams — using berries, stone fruit, tomatoes, apples or pears — letting you savor the season all year round.

Wine School
Your Next Lesson: Godello From Spain

This white grape almost disappeared from Spain in the middle of the 20th century, but a dedicated group succeeded in reviving it.

NYTFood on Instagram

Follow us to find all the food that’s fit to cook, snap and eat.

How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

The Most Delicious Summer on Record

Advice for camp cooking, picnics and potlucks, along with recipes, cocktails, frozen desserts and a taste-test of the best supermarket hot dogs.

Culinary Travel
Neighborhood Joint
Patricia’s of the Bronx: To Eat, or to Chat?

This neighborhood restaurant, which has been serving homemade pastas and pizzas in the Bronx for nearly 25 years, has a fiercely loyal clientele.

Bites
A Classic London Restaurant Gets a Makeover and a New Mission

The kitchen at Bibendum is now run by Claude Bosi, and the result is both familiar and exciting.

Pursuits
Mohonk’s Farm-to-Table Rebirth

The executive chef at the venerable Hudson Valley resort infused a “dependable” menu with purely regional flavors. The results are delicious.

Bites
A Jerusalem Restaurant With Italian and Israeli Influences

The best dishes at Anna, which opened in 2016, encompass the shared Italian and Israeli passion for freshness and simplicity.

Pursuits
Moose, Anyone? In Newfoundland, Food Both Rustic and Sophisticated

Arctic hare and beaver are also on the menu at a handful of outstanding restaurants in and around the capital of St. John’s.

Follow Food

NYT Cooking Newsletter

NYT Cooking Newsletter

Get regular updates from The New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice. And download Cooking for iPhone and iPad in the App Store.