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Edition: U.S. / Global

Monday, March 27, 2017

Food

Ella Brennan, center, presiding at a dinner party at her home in New Orleans in December. All the food and drink came from Commander’s Palace, her restaurant next door.
Edmund D. Fountain for The New York Times

Ella Brennan, center, presiding at a dinner party at her home in New Orleans in December. All the food and drink came from Commander’s Palace, her restaurant next door.

A hard-driving businesswoman, “Hurricane Ella” has mentored generations of chefs, including Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse.

First Glance at the New Bar in the Old Four Seasons Space

The Bar, as it will be called when it opens this spring, will retain a midcentury spirit in design and drinks.

The Pour

12 Wine Grapes Worth Discovering

Some of the greatest values in wine come from grapes that are little known or historically despised.

A Good Appetite

Eggs for Dinner, and Make It Spicy

A classic Indian dish of hard-cooked eggs in a robust tomato sauce satisfies for supper.

Lunchtime Dreaming

Sautéed chicken breasts with fennel and lemon, a Vietnamese noodle salad and more recipe ideas for the week.

Seasoning Powders From California for Soups and Fish

Nine unusual powdered spices from Shed, in Healdsburg, Calif., add flavor to sauces and dips.

This Food Processor Cooks, Too

All-Clad’s latest kitchen machine adds heat to the food processing equation.

City Kitchen

This Meaty Fish Begs to Be Roasted

Firm-fleshed and lean, monkfish was once known as poor man’s lobster.

Front Burner

Dieter Roth’s Art Bar Rises Once Again in Manhattan

At a Chelsea gallery, a sculpture by the Swiss artist doubles as a bar, serving drinks and dishes like sunchoke soup and vegetable flatbread.

Semilla, Praised for Its Tasting Menu, Is Closing

Saturday will be the final evening for the small chef’s counter in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

Meat Is the Main Attraction at Manzo in Eataly Flatiron

The restaurant Manzo now includes a glass-enclosed butcher room and a rotisserie.

Fonio, a West African Grain, Is the Star of a Brooklyn Talk

Pierre Thiam, a chef from Senegal, will demonstrate how to use this high-protein grain at the Museum of Food and Drink.

Her Memory Fading, Paula Wolfert Fights Back With Food

The pioneering cookbook author, who has Alzheimer’s disease, no longer cooks much. But a special diet and persistence keep her as kinetic as ever.

A Drinker’s Guide to Rum

“Rum: The Manual” covers the history of the world’s most diverse spirit.

Eat

The Wonder of Three Ingredients

Radishes, sweet butter and coarse salt are a testament to restraint.

Restaurants and News
Benjamin Petit for The New York Times

The New York branch of a Los Angeles chain has plenty of efficiency and customers, but the fish options can be limited.

Hungry City

Finding the Joys of Jianbing Across New York

The savory crepe with an omelet underbelly and a heart of fried dough was once elusive, but some chefs are trying to make it as essential as tacos and falafel.

Americans Ate 19% Less Beef From ’05 to ’14, Report Says

The Natural Resources Defense Council, an environmental group, said lower demand reduced greenhouse gas emissions.

The Death and Rebirth of the Duncan Grapefruit

Once a breakfast staple, this white, seed-packed variety of the fruit has all but disappeared. Yet there are hints of a small-scale revival.

Montreal Chefs Are Fuming Over a Casino’s French Import

Many are angry that the Quebec government passed them over and chose the French chef Joël Robuchon to run a flagship restaurant.

Adam Leonti Will Become Chef at Sessanta Instead of Harvey

Tired of waiting for Harvey to open in the Williamsburg Hotel, the former Vetri chef will join John McDonald’s restaurant in SoHo.

Off the Menu

Alex Stupak Unveils His Empellón Flagship in Midtown Manhattan

A move by James Kent, Masa Takayama’s non-sushi project moves forward, and other restaurant news.

Behind Lucky Peach’s Closing, Colliding Visions

The irreverent magazine, which linked food and journalism in a fresh way, foundered in part on differences among its partners.

Chefs Struggle Over Whether to Serve Up Politics

Since the election, many restaurateurs have taken a stand on tough issues, especially immigration. But others are torn.

Mixing Food and Feminism, Bloodroot Is 40 and Still Cooking

The bookstore and vegetarian restaurant in Bridgeport, Conn., has been following its appetites and ideals since it opened in 1977.

Marijuana Industry Presses Ahead in California’s Wine Country

Sonoma County has become a seedbed of cannabis experimentation, despite threats from the Trump administration to increase enforcement against recreational use.

Restaurant Review

A MacGyver of Slow-Cooked Meats at Franklin Barbecue

Aaron Franklin, a new-traditionalist tinkerer, is producing exemplary brisket and long lines in Austin, Tex.

Hungry City

Butterfunk Kitchen Is Driven by Soul Food and Built on Memories

Deviled eggs, deep-fried corn on the cob and scrapple honor the chef’s roots at this restaurant in Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn.

Q. and A.

Tips From an Ambassador for Israeli Cuisine

Michael Solomonov, the chef at Zahav in Philadelphia, is the host of a new documentary film on Israel and its dynamic food scene.

Cooking
Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

There are more varieties than ever available to cooks, in a vibrant array of shapes and colors.

A Good Appetite

A Chocolate Malted You Can Scoop

This rich ice cream, rippled with chocolate fudge, captures the essence of the classic soda fountain drink.

City Kitchen

My New Favorite Beans

Purists eat them plain, with salt and a spoonful of olive oil, but they are especially satisfying in an it’s-almost-spring stew.

The Verdant Food of Iran Entices at Persian New Year

During Nowruz, the holiday table abounds with vibrantly flavored dishes dense with herbs and symbolism.

City Kitchen

The French Love to Eat This. Why Don’t Americans?

Braise lean, tender rabbit with wine, herbs, mustard and crème fraîche for a classic and marvelous meal.

A Good Appetite

Beef Barley Soup Lightens Up

Fragrant with spices, tangy with lemon, and filled with vegetables, this is not your typical bowl.

Eat

The Secret That Brings These Pancakes to Life

A fruit-filled pancake as thick and even as a layer of birthday cake.

The Bright Magic of Citrus in the Baking Pan

The scent and taste of lemon evoke powerful memories of childhood summers in Italy.

A Good Appetite

How Cooking Dinner Can Be a Dance

Once you get in the groove, preparing the day’s final meal can morph from a formidable chore into a delight.

City Kitchen

A Relative of Couscous Finds a Wider Fan Base

With roots in Tunisian and Sardinian cooking, fregola has become an attractive ingredient for American cooks, especially among chefs.

Drinks
The Pour

One Wine Glass to Rule Them All

A selection of wine glasses that were tested.
Michael Hession/The Sweethome

A selection of wine glasses that were tested.

A vast number of choices and contradictory advice can make buying a set baffling, but a few principles will help simplify the process.

Your Next Lesson: Ribeira Sacra

These reds from the Galicia region of northwestern Spain are both ancient and strikingly modern.

Opinion

Ignore the Snobs, Drink the Cheap, Delicious Wine

Flavor engineers are designing bottles to please consumers’ palates.

Spirits of The Times

Irish Whiskeys Rise Above the Annual Celebration

Sales have soared over the last 15 years, and so has the level of quality for this distinctive spirit.

The Pour

Want to Pick Better Bottles? Repeat After Me: Wine Is Food

Thinking about what you drink as carefully as you do about what you eat can lead to much better bottles on the table.

Cooking Guides
How to Drink Wine

Learn how to talk about wine, pair it with food, order it at a restaurant and more.

NYTFood on Instagram

Follow us to find all the food that’s fit to cook, snap and eat.

How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

Best of 2016
Restaurant Review
Top New York Restaurants of 2016

Our critic counts down his favorites among the new places he reviewed this year.

The Most-Read Food Stories of 2016

These are the articles and columns that Food section readers found most compelling in 2016.

Culinary Travel
Bites
A Barcelona Restaurant With a Dash of Creativity

Giuseppe Padula, the chef at Cometa Pla, is from southern Italy and aims to present sophisticated, healthy food.

Check In
In Vietnam, a Doyenne of Food Expands to Tasteful Lodging

Trinh Diem Vy runs four of the most popular restaurants in the charming town of Hoi An, Vietnam, and the 35-room Maison Vy is her first hotel venture.

Bites
A Restaurant That Brings the Italian Coast to Miami Beach

Forte dei Marmi serves food kissed by a sea breeze, always a good idea in a sun-drenched location.

Frugal Traveler
Beer on a Budget in San Diego

The Southern California city isn’t just about the beautiful outdoors. Beer has taken hold in a big way.

Follow Dining

NYT Cooking Newsletter

NYT Cooking Newsletter

Get regular updates from The New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice. And download Cooking for iPhone and iPad in the App Store.