Mark B UK

The 35-100 2.8 is an excellent lens and works perfectly with the E-M1. I have that combination, and have been pleased with it. However I note the OP currently has a Zuiko 12-40. One factor to bear ...

Unless the OP is content always to shoot cars side on, I'd advocate zooms rather than primes, simply because the vehicles will be heading towards/away from him or her, and doing it far too fast to ...

I think the idea has been allowed to develop over time that the LX100 legs is 'soft', particularly at minimum focal length and for landscapes and other distant subjects. In part this is because ...

With the detailed exceptions people have given, Oly lenses work with Pana bodies and vice versa. As you'll see from my signature line, I have both makes of lens on an Olympus body and am happy ...

Improved CDAF across the whole frame High-res and HDR modes that work handheld, at any shutter speed More dynamic range and less noise at high ISOs The ability to move the focus point by flicking ...

I think the most likely scenario is that these lenses never see the light of day. Next most likely is that these designs appear under someone else's brand name, for an existing FF system. If ...

I agree with this. A while ago there was a thread on the m43 forum arguing, with evidence, that the image quality of today's m43 cameras at least equals medium format in the film era. I concurred, ...

You're welcome. I think it unclips lower down to allow for the LCD rear screen - a problem not faced by those who designed cases for 1970s 35mm rangefinders. I hope you have a successful trip, ...

I don't have a DSLR - my main camera system (Olympus OMD E-M1) is also mirrorless. Quality-wise I'd be happy taking my LX100 with me on a trip if space or other considerations prevented me from ...

I suspect the case you're using isn't the original Panasonic one. The genuine item's top part simply folds down in use just like the ERCs for 35mm film cameras, no need to take it off.

No, it's a traditional ever-ready case, as featured on most cameras in the 1960s and 70s. The top part of it simply unclips and hangs down while shooting, while the lower half remains in place, ...

I keep mine in the manufacturer's leather ever-ready case and attach the paired neck strap. For me the camera is too large to be kept in a pocket, but using the ERC gives protection and ...

Also consider the Zuiko 60mm macro. Slightly longer focal length, great for close-crop portraits. And razor sharp.

I've had good experiences with Printerpix. Had some great 30x40in prints from my old E-M5 from the firm.

I agree with your conclusions. These days I tend to take the 12-35 and 35-100 when shooting landscapes etc where the weather sealing is crucial, and for low-light action where I need fast zooms. ...

M43 is both my main system and my back-up. My system camera is an E-M1 with three primes (Zuiko 12, 25, 60 macro) and three zooms (Lumix 12-35 X, 35-100X, 14-140 mk2) and my backup is a Panasonic ...

The R1 was also my introduction to digital, and it taught me that pixel-based imaging need not compromise quality compared with film. Though I've since moved on, I retain a fondness for that ...

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Zuiko 25 1.8 and 60 2.8 Macro. I find a fast standard lens good for 'lollipop' portraits (that's to say ones where the whole shape of the head and neck are ...

Last year I had some A3 and A2 prints made from 35mm slides I shot between about 1994 and 2005. Most were taken using a Leica M6 or Nikon FM-2n with quality manufacturer prime lenses, on a mixture ...

On a literal level, you're right. Metaphorically, not so much. Many people invest in lenses etc that are specific to one camera system, meaning they are heavily committed to that brand or set of ...