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  Old-school Pizza - Getting back to the pizzeria basics

  Photo by Jeanne RiceWe critics have a duty to reminisce at year's end, so I'm thinking about the significant events of the past 20 years of my eating life: the proliferation of ATM machines, homegrocer. com, the explosion of brewpubs and, most impor...

  by TOM VASICH on December 30, 1999

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  Peace Meal - The borderless delights of Pakistani and Indian food

  Photo by Jeanne RiceSo right after Pakistan's government melted down again--and democracy's friend, George W. Bush, publicly speculated that a coup might bring much-needed stability to the region--I began listing what I knew of the place. Very rea...

  by TOM VASICH on December 23, 1999

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  Bistro Chic - Fish so good, we got emotional

  Photo by Jeanne RiceI don't normally go for restaurants named after Yul Brynner movies, but I'll make an exception for Anastasia. At first glance, it's easy to dismiss this downtown Laguna Beach bistro/ boutique as being just a bit too Euro for ou...

  by TOM VASICH on December 16, 1999

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  Tortalicious! - Getting to the basics of ungodly Mexican food

  Photo by Jeanne RiceThere's working fast food. And then there's what Leopaldo does. Leopaldo Gonzalez makes tortas at El Gallo Giro, a takeout/market across the street from Mater Dei High School that sells the basic elements of unbelievably delici...

  by TOM VASICH on December 9, 1999

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  Theres a High in My Soup - Rutabegorzs soups are right-on

  Photo by Jeanne RiceI love food trivia, and few foods have a better story than, of all things, soup. The first evidence of soup dates back to 6,000 B.C., with the main ingredient being those tasty hippopotamus bones. And according to Chad's Deli in ...

  by TOM VASICH on December 2, 1999

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  Adios, Cliff - Rage, rage against the dying of the Cajun

  photo by Jeanne RiceThis year has sucked in so many profound ways I'd need a column three times this length just to list them all. So I'll just mention one. Cliff's Ragin' Cajun closes Nov. 30. Some mean old landlord is telling Cliff Huffstetler...

  by TOM VASICH on November 25, 1999

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  The Raw and the Cooked - Getting to the heart of Irvines Chinese subculture

  Photo by Jeanne RiceOutsiders would never guess it, but Irvine is a teeming hotbed of excellent Chinese and Japanese restaurants. The city's growing Asian subculture is erupting in the master-planned mainstream with some damn fine food. And all I ca...

  by TOM VASICH on November 18, 1999

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  Ungringo - Antojitos, where the sauce is so green

  Photo by Jeanne RiceHaving lived for the better part of the past year in Cleveland, I got to see how the other half eats. This I have learned: corned beef can be served with every meal, there's more than one way to cook a Buffalo wing (I stopped cou...

  by TOM VASICH on November 11, 1999

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  I Scream, You Scream - For Thrifty ice cream

  Photo by Joy BastNow that Indian summer's finally here, let me dispel some myths about ice cream, the only perfect food for hot times like these. First, jamoca almond fudge is not bad for you. In fact, as a dairy product, it's damned important you e...

  by TOM VASICH on November 4, 1999

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  The Land of the Rising Beer - And thats why were here

  Photo by Jeanne RiceAs a restaurant writer, I believe oversimplification is necessary to understand the world's food systems. As a case in point, there are two kinds of food in the world: beer cuisine and wine cuisine. German grub goes better with b...

  by TOM VASICH on October 21, 1999

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  Taps Dancing - Stop calling North County Ethiopiav

  Photo by Joy BastWe're told by our friendly server at Taps Fish House and Brewery that the place is not named for the traditional military dirge. But from where we sit--a spacious corner booth in Brea's newest eatery--it would be an unlikely connect...

  by TIM MELTREGER on October 14, 1999

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  Latin Soul - Rafis Cuban food for the people

  Photo by Joy BastAmong the many contributions to American cuisine, the assists of Marx, Lenin, Mao, Castro and Ho are among the least appreciated. Consider this when you recall that some of our favorite foods are gifts of people who have come to the...

  by TOM VASICH on October 7, 1999

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  Southwestern Lives! - The trend is dead, but the flavor remains

  Southwestern went out so long ago Pearl Jam was still big. This came as a relief to those of us sick of salmon-colored walls with teal touches and those morose bull skulls. But there are folks more grateful than you and I: the restaurant owners who ...

  by TOM VASICH on September 30, 1999

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  Blue-Collar Ribs - Chris & Pitts for the people

  Photo by Jeanne RiceChris & Pitts--rib purveyor to the working class--has meant so much to so many for so long. The several locations are settings of profound cultural significance in the lives of thousands of kids who have grown up after World War ...

  by TOM VASICH on September 23, 1999

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  Pleasure and Plein - Lunch for the belly and soul

  Photo by Jeanne RiceArt is food for the soul, but it rarely does much for the belly, hence the newish lunch room at the Orange County Museum of Art (OCMA). The Plein Air Caf?, where the mango-and-brie quesadilla blends seamlessly with the California...

  by TOM VASICH on September 16, 1999

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  Meaty Byproducts - Pondering the German festival and knee-high socks

  I had never seen an ox's ass up close before, and if you haven't either, let me spare you the experience. It's big--terrifyingly big--and makes me consider the Paul Bunyan legend in a wholly new way. But a couple of Sundays ago at Anaheim's Phoeni...

  by TOM VASICH on September 9, 1999

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  Chapman Bites! - Panther power fueled by great eats

  Photo by Johan VogelForget about Cal State Fullerton and UC Irvine. If I'm going back to college, I'm going to Chapman University. I may not learn any more than I did on my first tour (and I'd spend a helluva lot more on tuition), but I'd certainly ...

  by TOM VASICH on September 2, 1999

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  Big and Greasy - The breakfast of patriots

  Photo by Johan VogelIt's morning; I'm in Laguna Beach and in need of cholesterol. This concept is lost on the thin, melanomic beachgoers surrounding me as I pass Main Beach; their breakfast most likely consisted of a thimbleful of cottage cheese and...

  by VICTOR D. INFANTE on August 26, 1999

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  Gypsy Den World? - Wed still eat there

  Photo by Jeanne RiceThe Gypsy Den has opened a second restaurant in the Artists Village in Santa Ana, and so help me, Carl Karcher and Martin Diedrich, I swear I can see the coming of Gypsy Denny's. Isn't this the way it starts? One day, you're cele...

  by DAVE WIELENGA on August 19, 1999

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  Mexico City Squared - Plaza Garibaldi is a nontheme dream

  Plaza Garibaldi is so close to Disneyland that we got to watch the Magic Kingdom's Saturday-night fireworks show from the parking lot before we went inside. And Plaza Garibaldi's owner, Santa Ana tacopreneur Mike Magin-Helguero, likes to mention his...

  by DAVE WIELENGA on August 12, 1999