nnowak

It isn't the adapter, but the lenses that make the difference. Some EF-S and EF lenses can be almost as fast as native EF-M lenses. Others are drastically slower. EF-M, EF-S, and EF lenses all ...

I was thinking of pairing it with the EF 24-70 f4L. This would give me a 17-50mm f2.8 lens with IS that is smaller and lighter than EF-S 17-55mm. It would likely be sharper too.

Prolific!  There would have been a whole lot more had I slipped and run the carbide cutter across the rear element.

The thought crossed my mind, but I doubt it is economically viable for me to do it.  Up front, each one requires about $600 to $700 of donor parts.  Conversion time was around 8 hours.  While the ...

I wish it were that simple.  The process is very involved and complicated and requires a lot more than just swapping the rear flanges.  A lot of grinding, drilling, swearing, soldering, a lot more ...

Thanks.  There were quite a few tense moments with a die grinder buzzing less than a millimeter away from some expensive glass.  Aesthetically, they are far from perfect, but I am a bit surprised ...

Here are a couple of images of the Speed Booster Ultra in between my M and 70-200.

Or, how to squander a lot of time and money. Here are some pictures of what I am using. The details:  Sony NEX mount uses the exact same flange to sensor distance as the EOS M series.  Both are ...

Sorry, no prize.  The first image is with a Metabones Speed Booster Ultra with the lens wide open.  The second image, again wide open, is on a standard EF to EF-M adapter, but adjusted to produce ...

Except, I didn't use and "Extender".

Close, but not exactly.  The image shot at 135mm has the lens mounted on a stock Canon Ef to EF-M adapter.

Distance to subject (very close to 10 feet), aperture, and framing are identical in the two images.  Both images are straight out of the camera with no editing.

Nope, the only camera settings that were changed were ISO and Shutter Speed for matching exposure.

...or when f4 is not really f4.  Both images were shot on an M with the 70-200 f4L IS lens.  Camera was on a tripod, distance to the subject is identical between shots, and I tried to maintain ...

In that case, you could just as easily forego the ECO mode and just change the LCD timeout to 10 seconds.  This would keep the camera on, but asleep for 5 minutes instead of the 3 minutes of ECO mode.

ECO mode doesn't really do anything about the IS problem.  ECO mode dims the LCD after a few seconds and then shuts it off 10 seconds later.  The camera and the IS will stay on until the camera ...

Bill, I have looked at the Sony FF mirrorless cameras several times. Try building out your dream Sony FF kit and add up the total cost, total size, and total weight. Now do the same thing with a 6d ...

How well do those lenses work indoors, in the evening, under artificial light?

Here is how I got the EF-M 55-200 to fail during testing indoors....  Zoom the lens to 200mm, point the camera towards a subject that is around 3-4m / 10-12ft away, push the MF button on the ...

I am less concerned about the colors.  How wold you compare the handling in general?  AF speeds, startup time, shot to shot time?  Overall image quality?  I have heard the G7X can be pretty slow, ...