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Edition: U.S. / Global

Friday, March 27, 2015

Food

Karsten Moran for The New York Times

A simple dish goes heavy on the spice, with a pleasant, woodsy heat.

A Radish and Herb Salad That’s on the Cutting Edge

The sharp blade on a mandoline transforms bulky root vegetables into ethereal shavings. (Article plus video.)

Drink Up ... or Else

At Masha & the Bear in East Williamsburg, Brooklyn, Russian hospitality is on full display.

A Return to Classic Napa Style

Three bottles reflect Napa’s longtime commitment to cabernet made in classic style.

A Good Appetite

Gremolata Gives Passover Brisket a Brighter Side

Gremolata adds zest to a brisket or osso buco, relieving the meat of its heady intensity. (Article plus video.)

Recipe Lab

The Best Roast Lamb for Your Easter Feast

Remedying Americans’ resistance to lamb with a juicy roast that gets help from anchovies and butter. (Article plus video.)

Eat

With Sugar on Top

Learning to make sampita, a meringue cake from Montenegro.

Steven Smith, a ‘Marco Polo’ of American Tea, Dies at 65

Mr. Smith, who helped found the Stash and Tazo tea companies, brought back novel varieties from his global travels and developed a wide following.

Restaurant Review: Little Park in TriBeCa

Andrew Carmellini and Min Kong create a fresh, natural and intuitive menu at Little Park.

2015 James Beard Award Nominees

A list of this year’s nominees in the restaurant and chef categories, which includes nods for Bâtard, Cosme, Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Per Se.

Interactive Graphic: A Tour of Le District

An Eataly-type market for French food is set to open in the financial district.

Cocktail Table Service Thinks Big

The bar industry is becoming more inventive with what it calls “large format” drinks that serve two to six customers and cost $45 to $150.

A Simple Recipe for Pasta With Mussels

A vibrant linguine dish with a tomato sauce that gets added depth and intensity from the mussel broth.

Op-Ed | Mark Bittman

Stop Making Us Guinea Pigs

Roundup, widely used in farming, is “probably” carcinogenic.

Gelso & Grand Comes to Little Italy

Cassidy Hallman says he depends on the best ingredients, even milling his own flour, for his pastas, pizzas, antipasti and main courses.

Macaroons for Passover With a Difference

The recipe for the Jewish holiday treats traces back to Iraq.

Maira Kalman’s Most Treasured Cooking Tool

The artist’s midcentury cookie press, which belonged to her mother, will be viewable in an installation in TriBeCa starting April 10.

Tony May Is Selling SD26

The veteran restaurateur plans to retire, with John Doherty, a former executive chef at the Waldorf Astoria, taking over.

Winter Vegetables for Spring Holidays

There’s a place for red radishes, cauliflower and carrots at the table for Easter and Passover.

In Curry Hill, a New Kid on the Block

Haldi, an Indian restaurant that opened in September, sets a notably elegant tone for Curry Hill.

At Corison Winery, the Focus on Napa Cabernet Never Blurs

Through a quarter-century of turning out consistent, elegant cabernets, Cathy Corison has resisted joining other Napa producers whose wines are becoming more alcoholic and sweeter.

T Magazine

Elizabeth Alexander: Eat, Memory

The poet’s memoir recounts her romance with her late husband, but it also tells the story of their romance with food. In her Manhattan home, the tastes and scents of their shared life linger.

Spring’s Opening Act

The writer, a new resident of the Bay Area, takes a joyful look at the region’s fresh fruit and vegetables.

Judge Tells Korean-Restaurant Owner in Queens to Pay $2.7 Million in Back Wages

Workers at Kum Gang San Restaurant said they often worked more than 16 hours with no overtime and were ordered to pick cabbage on their day off.

Restaurant Review: Eleven Madison Park in Midtown South

With fewer gimmicks, Eleven Madison Park still pulls out all the stops with food and service.

Gene-Altered Apples and Potatoes Are Safe, F.D.A. Says

The Food and Drug Administration said that genetically engineered nonbrowning apples and bruise-resistant potatoes were as safe and nutritious as their conventional counterparts.

Neighborhood Joint

At Le Périgord, Few Changes Since Burton and Taylor Dined There in ’64

The French restaurant, owned by Georges and Marie-Thérèse Briguet for more than 50 years, has become a Midtown East neighborhood haunt though bills average nearly $100 per person.

Eat

For Perfect Pasta, Add Water and a Vigorous Stir

This simple ingredient brings classic Roman dishes to life.

$200 Million to Help Food Stamp Recipients Find Jobs

Pilot projects in 10 states will train recipients and offer services like transportation and child care, the Obama administration announced on Friday.

Beyond Quinoa: The New Ancient Grains

Chefs in New York are being seduced by the same nutty, rich and earthy flavors and high nutritional content that lured our ancestors from berries and antelopes.

With Bill Buford Around, It’s Never Dull

The editor, author and well-trained cook has mastered the sharpening steel.

Catfish Farmers, Seeking Regulation to Fight Foreign Competition, Face Higher Bills

More rigorous inspections could cost millions of dollars for an already beleaguered industry, potentially driving more producers out of business, an analyst says.

Layers of Spring

With spring approaching, here’s a pasta offering with broccoli rabe that is emblematic of the season.

Northern Tiger Set to Open Downtown

Erika Chou and Doron Wong of Yunnan Kitchen are finally ready to open their Northern Chinese counter for dumplings and noodle dishes at Brookfield Place.

Seamus Mullen’s El Colmado Butchery Fits in the Neighborhood

The chef’s combination butcher shop-restaurant opens in the meatpacking district; a spring-loaded muddler; Passover and Easter meals in a restaurant; and more.

U.S. Announces Plan to Combat Illegal Fishing

A new enforcement program would attempt to track fish from where they were caught to how they were shipped.

Sharing Their World With You

At Le Marécage in the East Village, the husband-and-wife team draws on French backgrounds from West Africa and the Caribbean.

Lagers Enjoy a Renaissance

In time for spring training, the beer panel rates 20 American lagers.

Lens Blog

Secrets of Food Porn Photos

What does it take to capture those obscenely luscious food photos displayed in The New York Times? The photographer Andrew Scrivani sees food as a work of art.

At White Oak Pastures, Grass-Fed Beef Is Only the Beginning

White Oak Pastures in Georgia is the sole farm in the country with federally approved slaughterhouses for poultry and mammals.

Restaurant Review: Bowery Meat Company in the East Village

Bowery Meat Company serves plenty of meat but insists it’s not a steakhouse.

Craig Claiborne’s Classic Billi Bi

“A consummately good cream of mussels soup,” in the words of the former New York Times food editor. (Article plus video.)

Germany: Archaeologists Find 300-Year-Old Pretzels. (No Sign of the Beer.)

Two pretzels unearthed during a dig on the banks of the Danube in Regensburg could be more than 300 years old but are similar to ones available today, archaeologists said Thursday.

Dinner at Ralph’s

The Polo Bar has quickly become the place for the city’s elite to meet, and to dazzle.

Eat

A Manners Manifesto

Table etiquette has long served as a tool of exclusion, but some rules bring us closer together.

Maria Guarnaschelli’s Ode to a Sicilian Urn

The noted cookbook editor gets a happy feeling from having a vase in her kitchen.

L’Antagoniste to Open in Bedford-Stuyvesant

Amadeus Broger, a partner in Le Philosophe, in NoHo, has established another French restaurant, this one in Brooklyn.

Jonell Nash, Who Cut Fat, Not Flavor, Out of Soul Food, Dies at 72

Ms. Nash wrote two cookbooks about lowering the fat content in traditional African-American cooking and was food editor of the magazine Essence for 25 years.

Stricter Oversight Ordered for Animal Research at Nebraska Center

Federal officials said that they found no abuse, but that scrutiny is lacking.

Haitian Griot Is a Postcard From the Caribbean

The classic Haitian dish of pork cubes simmered in chiles and citrus, then fried, can be hard to forget.

Claudine Pépin Teaches Cooking for Kids

From Claudine and Jacques Pépin, a French cookbook for children; a spicy Basque sausage; a class to make ice cream and toffee; and more.

Straight From Filipino Streets

House of Inasal delivers straightforward Filipino comfort food in a stretch of Woodside, Queens, that has earned the nickname Little Manila.

During Bakery Break-In, Only Recipes Are Taken

After a recipe theft at Mr Holmes Bakehouse in San Francisco, lines there for cruffins, the West Coast’s answer to New York’s cronut, seemed to grow even longer.

An Old Friend Comes Calling

The venerable saloon, where Auden and Ginsberg drank, is back.

Square Feet

Bon Appétit Moves to a New Home and Into the Kitchen You’ve Always Wanted

Condé Nast, which owns the magazine, last year began relocating some brands from 4 Times Square to 1 World Trade Center, which includes a 2,126-square-foot kitchen.

Hampton Creek, Maker of Plant-Based Protein Foods, Signs Distribution Deal With Foodbuy

Foodbuy, the procurement unit of Compass Group, has begun selling Hampton’s Just Cookies and will soon add Just Mayo, both made without eggs.

Paying Homage to Burgundy and Michel Lafarge

The winemaker, known for his graceful and captivating Burgundys, celebrated the 65th vintage he has worked at what is now called Domaine Michel Lafarge.

Chef Lineup Announced for Dan Barber’s Food Waste Pop-Up, WastED

Daniel Humm, Danny Bowien and April Bloomfield are among those who will cook at the pop-up at Blue Hill, which will serve dishes devised from food scraps.

Eat

Ludo Lefebvre’s Roasted-Carrot Salad

A simple, sophisticated take on French cuisine.

Starve a Landfill

Restaurants, home cooks and now a growing number of cities are embracing the belief that efficiency, composting and wasting less in the kitchen are just smart economics.

Ontario’s Beer Bottleneck Is Under Siege by Brewers and Buyers

Retailers, beer makers and the provincial government are increasingly skeptical of the longstanding retail system for beer sales.

Nordic Food Is a Doorway for Scandinavian Spirits

The New Nordic cuisine opens the way for Baska Snaps, Bjork Birch Liqueur and other Scandinavian-style drinks.

Restaurant Review: Via Carota in the West Village

The chefs Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, partners in business and domestic affairs, are the owners and chefs of Via Carota in Greenwich Village.

In Turkey, Testing the President’s Food Not for Taste, but for Poison

Five experts spend 14 hours a day in a laboratory analyzing Recep Tayyip Erdogan’s meals for suspicious substances and ensuring that all his nutritional needs are met.

McDonald’s Moving to Limit Antibiotic Use in Chickens

The chain said that within two years its domestic restaurants would no longer use birds treated with antibiotics “important to human medicine.”

The Plot Thickens in a Sequel

Holding out hope that Jeremiah Tower, formerly of Chez Panisse, can rescue Tavern on the Green.

Kiin Thai Eatery Opens in East Village

The owners of Somtum Der have opened another offshoot. This time, instead of Isan food, they’re serving home-style country Thai.

Bonnie Slotnick Finds a New Home

A vintage cookbook shop; hamantaschen, triangular pastries for the Jewish holiday; a cake stand that stands out; a new ramen spot at City Kitchen; and more.

A Chicken’s Tour of the Mediterranean

Braised thighs with lemon and olives can be tweaked for various tastes from the region.

Restaurant Review: Semilla in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

The vegetable-focused tasting menu at a new restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, props one unique flavor against the next.

A Bow to Japan, and a Nod to Naples

At Izakaya in the East Village, the mission may be comfort food, but there is a reverence to its making, even in the minor dishes.

A Spur-of-the-Moment Risotto

You probably have the ingredients for this winter warmer in your pantry now.

In Asia, Tastes of the Sea

We asked chefs like David Kinch and Andy Ricker, as well as cookbook writers and food experts, for some of their most memorable experiences with Asia and its seafood.

Cooking
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

The slow cooker need not produce mush. But many recipes call for too much cooking time.

Meatloaf That Conquers the Mundane

Polpettone, or Italian meatloaf, is always well seasoned, made with care and served with gusto.

A Moroccan Stew With Spice and Sweetness

A recipe with chickpeas and chard is satisfying and light at the same time, as a vegetarian main course or as a side dish to roasted meats or fish. (Article plus video.)

A Sugar Rush, Not Crush

The pastry chef Larissa Raphael’s confection is no harder to make than any other layer cake, but the precision of the ingredients makes it shine.

The Lively Look of Green Chorizo

Chiles, herbs and vinegar add punch to this specialty from the Toluca region of Mexico.

The Kitchen-Counter Chocolatiers

A small but growing cohort of people is dedicated to making chocolate at home, a pursuit rooted in the proliferation of American-style, bean-to-bar chocolate.

Profiteroles With a Prize Inside

Pastry puffs encasing chocolate ice cream can charm even an avowed nonchocoholic.

The Bittersweet Kiss of Chocolate

When making chocolate confections, let luscious be the beacon. Then bump up the chocolate content. (Article plus video.)

A Proper Stew for St. Patrick’s Day

Corned beef and cabbage is so American. For something that may actually be served on Irish soil, look to a stew with lamb and potatoes.

Parmigiana Dishes to Warm Weary Souls

When carefully and lovingly cooked with excellent ingredients, parmigiana is a fantastic dish, one worth learning how to make just right. (Article plus video.)

Texas Chili Makes a Welcome Guest

A Texas chili, like all great beef stews, combines the fragrant spices of a tagine, the succulent beefiness of pot roast and the slurpy heat of a goulash. (Article plus video.)

India on a Griddle: A Savory Dosa Recipe Worth the Effort

Making dosas may seem daunting, but as with pancakes, it gets easier after the first one.

An Issue That Feta Can Solve

Adding feta cheese to a saltwater brine adds punch to a simple roast chicken. (Article plus video.)

Cooking With Kimchi

Home cooks would do well to explore the preserved vegetable preparation. Kimchi is not just pickled vegetables; it’s Korean soul food.

Lemon Bars With a Touch of the Tart and the Tangy

Olive oil and sea salt bring complexity and sophistication to this lemon bar recipe. (Article plus video.)

The Root of the Matter

A version of lentil salad with caramelized root vegetables and brawny bacon, topped with sherry vinaigrette and fresh tangerine juice. (Article plus video.)

Bones, Broth, Bliss

Nourishing stock is popping up on restaurant menus and replacing caffeine in the cups of Americans on the run.

Like Advice From a Friend

A cookbook for new cooks, for uncertain cooks, for good cooks looking for simple inspiration.

A Stand-Up Antipasto of Crunchy Bites

The concept of fritto misto (assorted fried things) can yield a satisfying first course of bite-size morsels.

Humble Leeks Can Add Brightness to Winter

A thoroughly rinsed leek, kept from overcooking, can offer a pleasant surprise for winter meals.

Restaurants and News

Little Sprout Grows Up

Dishes at Dirt Candy tend to be composed and clever, but unapologetically crave-inducing. Here, the cabbage hot pot.
Ben Russell for The New York Times

Dishes at Dirt Candy tend to be composed and clever, but unapologetically crave-inducing. Here, the cabbage hot pot.

The restaurant Dirt Candy has more space and a renewed mission: to create delicious vegetarian food and change attitudes, too.

The North Carolina Way

Women are prominent in every part of the state’s food operation, from farms to restaurants.

Opening Oaxaca to the World

While much of La Morada’s menu is taken up by tacos and quesadillas, a few dishes offer a taste of the “infinite gastronomy” that is Oaxacan cooking.

Reclaiming Puerto Rico’s Food Paradise

A movement of loosely affiliated cooks, farmers and activists is trying to reclaim the gastronomic paradise at their fingertips.

Plantains, Top to Bottom

At Patacon Pisao, the headliner is a Venezuelan sandwich bookended by unripe fried plantains that don’t absorb flavor, but provide it.

Restaurant Review: Shuko in the East Village

The chefs Jimmy Lau and Nick Kim prepare elevated and memorable Japanese food at the new restaurant Shuko.

At Chipotle, How Many Calories Do People Really Eat?

How healthy are the meals people actually order for themselves at Chipotle? We decided to try to find out.

Decrees Governing France’s Bakeries Prompt a Wider Debate on Work Rules

The decrees governing bakeries play into a serious debate about whether the country can change its work rules and make other adjustments to counter high unemployment and a morose economy.

Restaurant Review: Kao Soy in Red Hook, Brooklyn

The offerings from the northern Thai menu can prove too tempting for the tables to handle.

The Earth and Heat of Nigeria

A trip to West Africa by way of the Bronx at the restaurant Patina.

Michelin Announces 2015 Rankings for France

The chef who stands to achieve the most fame, with three stars, the highest designation, is Yannick Alléno of Le Pavillon Ledoyen.

Restaurant Review: Cosme in the Flatiron District

The chef Enrique Olvera brings his approach to Mexican cuisine north of the border to New York.

Are Those Steel Drums I Hear?

The extemporaneous spirit of a Caribbean open-air barbecue joint is strong at LoLo’s Seafood Shack in Harlem.

Restaurant Review: Blue Smoke and North End Grill

Change happens, even at Danny Meyer’s restaurants, where it is considered a way to make things better.

A Buffet of Filipino Specialties

Sariling Atin, whose name in Tagalog means “our own,” opened in April in Elmhurst, Queens, on a block once dominated by furniture showrooms.

Brennan’s in New Orleans Walks the Tightrope of Tradition

The French Quarter restaurant, which was founded in 1946, is trying to overcome years of family dissent, and it starts with breakfast.

Drinks
Charles Joly developed Crafthouse Cocktails.
Nathan Weber for The New York Times

Charles Joly developed Crafthouse Cocktails.

A number of small distillers are reimagining the container version of cocktails, with very different results than those of the 1970s.

Firmly Rooted in the Piedmont

The results of the Wine School exam on Langhe nebbiolo.

The Romance of Wine

Great wine by its nature is mysterious, unpredictable and perhaps ultimately unknowable.

Seems Like Old Times for Distillers and Bourbon

Jimmy Russell, the last of the remaining original master distillers of bourbon, has found cult status among whiskey aficionados.

Tom Bullock’s ‘The Ideal Bartender’ Offers Words of Advice

The reprinted 1917 drinks guide by Tom Bullock, the first African-American bartender to publish a cocktail manual, touches on issues of race.

Wealth Matters

Reading Restaurant Wine Lists, for Blockbusters and Values

Here are some ways good sommeliers find the right wine for a customer out of hundreds or thousands of bottles.

A Peek at the Promised Land

The best Côte Chalonnaise reds convey what makes Burgundy ideal for pinot noir wines, and often at far more affordable rates.

In France, Pesticides Get in Way of Natural Wines

Growers are going to court to be able to refrain from spraying their vines.

Worth the Search

A selection of inexpensive bottles that won’t be found on the main highways of wine.

How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Featured Recipes
Easter

From lamb to ham to festive marshmallow treats, here’s what to cook on Easter Sunday.

Rainbow Carrot Stir-Fry
Grains and Beans
Billi Bi
Whole Grain Granola
Egg Drop Soup
Passover

Delicious dishes for your seder table.

Haitian Pork Griot
Irish Stew
Boss Colada
Coconut Layer Cake
Vegetable Fried Rice
Gillette Cocktail
Dark Chocolate Mint Sorbet
Texas-Style Chili
Chicken Parmesan
Veal Parmesan
Sicilian Beef Ragout
Beet and Potato Salad
Banana Almond Flax Smoothie
Hot Cakes
NYTFood on Instagram

Follow us to find all the food that’s fit to cook, snap and eat.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

Lawmakers Aim to Protect Farm Animals in U.S. Research

A new bill responds to accounts of mistreatment of farm animals used in federal experiments to help the meat industry.

U.S. Research Lab Lets Livestock Suffer in Quest for Profit

In the past 50 years, meat has gotten less fatty and easier to chew — thanks in part to the U.S. Meat Animal Research Center. But the achievement has come at a steep cost to the lab’s animals.

In Queens, Kimchi Is Just the Start

The Queens kimchi belt has got to be the least explored, discussed and celebrated of the city’s great ethnic-food districts. In and near Flushing, hundreds of restaurants serve classic Korean dishes.

The Best of 2014
Restaurants
The 10 Best New Restaurants of 2014

From Bâtard to Russ & Daughters Cafe, the restaurants that brought a fresh perspective to the dining scene this year.

Hungry City
Off the Beaten Path, and Well Worth a Visit

The favorites among the corners, counters and places to eat (or slurp or gulp) standing up that Ligaya Mishan reviewed in the past year.

The Year’s Most Popular Recipes

The 20 recipes Cooking users saved to their recipe boxes most often this year.

The Best of 2014

Highlights from the year in food, fashion and style, film, theater and dance, art, music, television, video games and books, as chosen by the editors of The New York Times.

The Top 10 Videos of the Year

The top videos of the year range from one man’s incredible tale of surviving an ISIS massacre to a charming — and very kid-friendly — dinner experiment.

The United States of Thanksgiving

We’ve scoured the nation for recipes that evoke each of the 50 states (and D.C. and Puerto Rico). These are our picks for the feast. Dig in, then tell us yours.

INTERACTIVE MAP: New York Health Department Restaurant Ratings Map

Interactive map of health violations at restaurants in New York

101 Places to Find Great Coffee in New York

The number of serious coffee shops in New York has exploded. Enter your address to find the shops closest to you.

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Your weekly dose of lifestyle news from the Style, Travel, Food and Home sections, get the latest trends and news you can use. Coming soon.

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