dietary law, any of the prescriptions concerning what may or may not be eaten under particular conditions. These prescriptions and proscriptions are sometimes religious; often they are secular; frequently they are both. This article surveys the variety of laws and customs pertaining to food materials and the art of eating in human societies from earliest times to the present. It will demonstrate that behaviour with respect to food—whether religious, secular, or both—is institutionalized and is not separate or apart from organizations of social relations.
By an institution is meant here a stable grouping of persons whose activities are designed to meet specific challenges or problems, whose behaviour is governed by implicit or explicit rules and expectations of each other, and who regularly use special paraphernalia and symbols in these activities. Social institutions are the frames within which humans spend every living moment. This survey explores the institutional contexts in which dietary laws and food customs are cast in different societies. It also attempts to show that customs surrounding food are among the principal means by which human groups maintain their distinctiveness and help provide their members with a sense of identity.
Other points of view about food customs cover a wide range. What may be labeled an ecological approach suggests that food taboos among a group’s members prevent overutilization of particular foods to maintain a stable equilibrium in the habitat. Investigators of such customs have explored the hypothesis that they provide an adaptive distribution of protein and other nutrients so that these may be evenly distributed in a group over a long period instead of being consumed at one time of the year. The ecological approach also suggests that many food taboos are directed against women to maintain a low population level. This seems to be an adaptive necessity in groups at the lowest technological levels, in which there is a precarious balance between population and available resources.
There are also psychological approaches to food customs. Psychoanalytic writers speculate that food symbolizes sexuality or identity because it is the first mode of contact between an infant and its mother. This point of view is most clearly exemplified in ideas that attitudes toward food, established early in life, tend to shape attitudes toward money and other forms of wealth and retentiveness or generosity. The French anthropologist Claude Lévi-Strauss suggested that the categories represented in food taboos enable people to order their perceptions of the world in accordance with the polarities that govern the structure of the mind. Thus, such taboos aid in maintaining such dichotomies as those between nature and culture and between human and animal.