Boston city guide: an insider's tour

Friends told me that I would feel at home in Boston because of its strong European influence, and they were right. When I first arrived in the city 16 years ago, from France, I discovered a place full of history and style, fell in love with it right away, and never left.

Boston is one of the oldest cities in the US. With its red-brick buildings, brownstones and those prestigious universities, the city's culture and architecture are reminiscent of those of an English town. The streets are narrow and compact, which makes it an excellent city to walk around. Follow, for example, the red line painted on the footpaths of the meandering Freedom Trail, which will lead you to 16 historical sites over the course of a few hours, encompassing two and a half centuries of the US's most significant past. In the city's North End you will walk by the 17th-century colonial home of American patriot Paul Revere. Continue a little further on Tremont Street and you'll discover the equally historic cemetery, King's Chapel Burying Ground, beside King's Chapel, the oldest in the city.

Another enjoyable way to discover the area is on wheels. Hubway, the city bike scheme, is similar to the Vélib' in Paris or the Boris bikes in London: riders can pick up and drop off a bike at different stations across the city (and also neighbouring towns).

Continue your visit with a stop at one of the city's museums, such as the recently renovated Institute of Contemporary Art, or the stately Museum of Fine Arts in Fenway. And with its courtyard garden, new Renzo Piano-designed extension and outstanding private collection of art, the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museumcorrect "was designed as a work of art in totality".

The Charles river, which separates Boston from Cambridge, is a central feature of the city; it's flanked by paths on each side for the runners and cyclists who make use of them. Season permitting, you can even choose to go down the river itself – canoes and kayaks can be easily rented at several locations. If you happen to visit in October, go to the Head of the Charles Regatta, the world's largest rowing event: over the course of a weekend, nearly 300,000 spectators gather to cheer on the 9,000 competing rowers.

Since you will almost certainly cross the river to Cambridge, make a stop at Upstairs on the Square for lunch or dinner. This storied restaurant houses two dining rooms: an upscale, gilt-laden fantasy land on the third floor, where it offers a five- or seven-course tasting menu ($72/$95); and in an equally flamboyant room on the second floor you can dine on lobster pizza for $19 or whole-milk ricotta homemade cavatelli with sweet pea and smoked ham for $14. During Sunday brunch, expect the arrival of the renowned Harvard Krokodiloes, a group of a cappella singers formed of tuxedo-clad undergraduates from the university.

When in Harvard Square, I always pay a visit to Formaggio Kitchen to stock up on a selection of the best imported cheese and cured meats in town, including bresaola, jamón Ibérico and speck. Then it's to the Hi-Rise Bread Company for a baguette and a loaf of country bread.

Boston's location on the Atlantic coast means that, of course, the seafood is excellent. For delicious oysters, lobster, clam chowder and other seafood delicacies, I'd recommend Island Creek Oyster Bar in Kenmore Square. It has one of the best raw bars in town; the oysters are local to New England (Wellfleet and Chatham in Massachusetts, or from Rhode Island) and are sold by the piece for $3. It also serves a delicious halibut ceviche with cucumber, lime and coriander for $9, and a shellfish platter for four to share, for $80.

North End, near the harbour, is the neighbourhood to visit for authentic Italian food. Try Mike's Pastry shop for cannoli or tiramisu, before heading to DePasquale's Homemade Pasta Shoppe for freshly made pumpkin ravioli and orecchiette to take home.

For a completely different atmosphere, and a more elegant dining experience, I'd suggest Clio or L'Espalier near Newbury Street, one of the city's upscale shopping streets. Both impress with imaginative food. At L'Espalier, try the chilled Casco Bay lobster salad with cucumber gazpacho gelée, pickled grapes, almond and compressed cucumbers, or the sweet corn bisque with roasted new onion and popcorn powder – it's outstanding.

However, the restaurant I keep coming back to is Bergamot in Somerville, for its excellent service and seasonal ingredients. During the city's restaurant week, a choice of any appetizer, main and dessert can be had for $38. The charcuterie is house-made, and its salads and desserts stand out – as I'm French, I find the hazelnut clafoutis, served with peaches, whipped ricotta, brown butter and peach sorbet, impossible to resist.

During the summer, farmer's markets pop up in parts of town, selling fresh vegetables and fruit. Copley Square, in downtown Boston, hosts a market on Tuesdays and Fridays. On Sundays from May to October, SoWa Open Market, in the South End, includes arts and crafts designers, a farmer's market, and a wide selection of food trucks.Stop for a lunch of kale salad, sweet corn and poblano fritters at Mei Mei Street Kitchen.

There are several beautiful parks in the city. Swan boats are a highlight at Boston Common, near the historic Beacon Hill neighbourhood; while south of the city are the Arnold Arboretum and Jamaica Pond, which is good for a long walk, especially in spring and fall, with its cherry blossoms and changing leaf colours.

Finally, takea trip to the north shore beaches (Crane Beach or Plum Island), or to Cape Cod and its islands – Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. Go off-season, in spring or fall, and you might have the sandy beaches and parks to yourself.

Béatrice Peltre, food writer and stylist based in Boston. She blogs at La Tartine Gourmande

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